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THE 



ISLAND OF MAUEITIUS 



SUB-TROPICAL RAMBLES 



IN 



THE LAND OF THE APHANAPTERYX. 



PEUSONAL EXPEMIENCES, ADVENTURES, AND WANDERINGS 

IN AND AROUND 

THE ISLAND OF MA URITIUS. 



By NICOLAS PIKE. 







NEW YORK: zl 
HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, 

FRANKLIN SQUARK. 

18 73. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, by 

HARPER & BROTHERS, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 






C^is ^olxxmt 



IS MOST BE8FECTFULLY DEDICATED TO 



M. L. L. 



AS A MARK OF ESTEEM AND FRIENDSHIP AND FOR THE VALUABLE ASSISTANCE 



RENDERED ME WHILST WRITING ITS PAGES ; ALSO FOR THE KIND CARE 



AND ATTENTION BESTOWED UPON ME WHEN STRICKEN DOWN WITH 



FEVER ALONE IN A STRANGE LAND, AND WHICH NEARLY 



PREVENTED THEM BEING WRITTEN AT ALL 



PEEFACE. 



•The present volume of Sub-tropical Eambles is made 
up from notes taken on my voyage from America to 
Mauritius ; information gained in the latter wherever 
possible ; and my own experience during the years I have 
resided in it. 

The * Gem of the Ocean ' is, in reality, but Httle known 
to the world at large. Small as it is, only a dot in a vast 
ocean, it is, or at least might be made, one of the most 
fertile and productive of the English Colonies. Its 
mountain scenery is grand, and its singularly formed 
rugged peaks supply an endless fund for reflection. No- 
where is the ' stone-book of Nature ' more widely opened, 
so that ' he who runneth may read.' Its waterfalls, . its 
caverns, its wild forest lands, must ever be sources of 
pleasure to all who choose to seek for them. Its coasts 
afford the naturahst never-ending stores for collection 
and study, and all these go far to make up for the many 
things so totally deficient in Mauritius ; in fact, they make 



vi PREFACE. 

life bearable, wliicli would be without them a dull mono- 
tone. 

On my receiving my appointment as Consul to this 
Island, I sought in vain for information respecting it. 
With the exception of Baron Grant's work, written more 
than a hundred years ago ; notes by an old French officer 
quite as ancient, and a few scattered magazine articles, I 
could find nothing. 

I therefore determined to note everything I saw ; and 
gain information of all kinds relative to this interesting 
place, and the present volume is the result. To those 
gentlemen who have assisted me so courteously by the 
use of their books, or with personal information, I beg 
to return my most sincere thanks. 

In a second volume, nearly completed, I purpose 
treating more fully on the Fauna and Flora of Mauritius. 
I am aware much has been written on both, but am 
equally aware (often to my disappointment) that such 
writings have been mostly confined to articles sent to 
various literary institutions, that he entombed in their 
records, unavailable to the general reading public. 

I have tried to give a fair but brief account of every- 
thing without prejudice ; and if the reader, when he (or 
she) lays down my book, should say, he has gained new 
ideas, and a fair knowledge of the Island and its capa- 
bilities, or even had some hours' amusement, I shall feel 
my 'jottings by the way' have not been all labour in 
vain. 

I would say a word about the title of my book. 



PREFACE. vii 

Everybody has heard all about the Dodo, once existent 
in Mauritius, but many are not aware of the very beau- 
tiful bird the Aphanapteryx imperialism coexistent with 
it, a sketch of which is on the title-page, and whose ex- 
quisite red silky plumage might vie with the handsomest 
birds of the present era.-^ 

Nicolas Pike. 



U.S. Consul, Port Louis, Mauritius. 

Nov. 1872. 



* A full description of this bird will be giyen in a future volume. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

; PAGE 

Leaving Home — Ball at Piney Point — In the Gulf Stream — St. Thomas — 
Santa Cruz — Guadaloupe — Mr. Chaplain's Death — Barbadoes — Pernam- 
buco — Olenda — Rio — Description of the City — Public Gardens — 
Emperor's Garden —A Night in the Forest — Excursion up the Corcovada — 
Snakes — Descent — Public Squares — Departure from Rio ... 1 



CHAPTER II. 

EASTWARD BOUND. 

Bad Weather— Catching an Albatross— Accident to Captain — Brilliance of 
Southern Constellations — Serious Consequences of killing an Albatross — 
Whale Brit — Tristan d'Acunha— Its History — Chemical Barometer, and 
how to make it — Arrival in Simon's Bay — Description of Country — Cape 
Sheep — Hottentot Venus — The Pilot — Baboons— A Night in the Moun- 
tains — Ascent of Table Mountain — Principal Features of Cape Town — 
Harbour Lights — A Cape Waggon — Churches — Masonry — The Govern- 
ment — A Dutch Boer — Road from Cape Town to Simon's Bay — Adieu to 
the Cape — A Hurricane — Hints on Cyclones — Mauritius at last . . 28 



CHAPTER III. 
ARRIVAL IN MAURITIUS. 

First Impressions of Port Louis from the Sea — Landing — A Night in the best 
Hotel — The Harbour — Architecture of Houses— Chaussee — Principal 
Streets — Place d'Armes — Government House — Government Street — 
Theatre — Champ de Mars — Labourdonnais Street — Mineral Spring — 
Water — New Town — Plaine Verte — Company's Gardens — Bazaar — Moka 
Street — Railway Depot — Barracks — College — Churclies — Mosque — 
Barbers — Masonic Lodgf s ......... 



X CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER IV. 

PAMPLEMOUSSES GARDENS. 

PAGE 

M. Poivre — Description of Gardens — Centre Avenue — Obelisk — Lakes — Sago 
Walk — Avenue of Fine Trees — Effects of Hurricane — Nursery — Boabab — 
Grassy Slope— Mr. Home's Cottage— Curious Trees near it — Dr. Meller's 
House — Fernery — Bernadin St.-Pierre — Loss of the St. Geran— Captain's 
Death — And that of the Two Lovers — Tombs of Paul and Virginia . . 72 

CHAPTER V. 

THE RACES. 

The Beginning of Racing in Mauritius — Unprofitableness of Races — Horses 
very inferior — Rules and Regulations up to Newmarket Mark — No Infor- 
mation to be got — Preparations for Races — Race Monday — General Excite- 
ment — The Race — Jockeys — The Loges — Saturday— Scenes in Bazaar — 
Costumes — Nautch Girls — Toilettes — Painful Case of Take-in — Return 
Home 83 



CHAPTER VI. 

THE EPIDEMIC OF MAURITIUS. 

'On Fevers generally — Malarious Fever in 1866 — Distress in the Districts — 
Symptoms of the Fever — Complications — Effects of Quinine — Remedies — 
The Fever, Malarious — Causes of Fever — Spores — Ague Plants — Causes 
of Malarious Fever at Port Louis — At Grand River — The Lowlands — 
Destruction of Trees — Sad Scenes — Funerals — The Western Cemetery — 
Fete des Morts — Cemetery of Bois Marchand 90 

CHAPTER VII. 

THE CYCLONE OF 1868. 

The Direction of the Winds, &c., from Feb. 27 to March 5 — Premonitory 
Symptoms — Changes from 5th to 11th— Direction of Cyclone— Its Track 
on the Ocean — Damages in Port Louis — Destruction of Churches, Ware- 
houses, &c. — Effects in the Harbour — Irving Lodge — Scenes in the Streets 
— Grand River Bridge— Midland and Southern Districts — Reduit — 
Pamplemousses — Effects on the Sea-shore — Table of Losses. Deaths, &c. 11 1 

CHAPTER VIII. 

A TRIP TO THE ARSENAL. 

Our Road — Arrival at Balaclava — Description of House and Grounds — Flour 
Mill — Distillery— Patent Fuel — School for Indian Children — Lime Kilns 
— Geology of the Coast 123 



CONTENTS. xi 



CHAPTER IX. 

THE GEOLOGY OF MAURITIUS. 

PAGE 

Extinct Craters — Cessation of Volcanic Action — Upheaval — Deposits at 
Timor and other Islands — Force of Volcanic Agency — Mountain Peaks — 
Flacq — Craters — Dr. Ayres on Flat Island — Original Formation of 
Mauritius — Submersion — Fossil Casts . . . . . . .129 



CHAPTER X. 

THE MOHARRUM OR TAMSEH. 

Its Origin — Whence the name Yamseh — The Find in the Latanier River — 
The Disposal of their ' Bon Dieu ' — Procession for Alms — Gouhns — How 
built — The Little Procession — Orgies at Plaine Verte — Colours worn by 
Indians — Grand Procession — The Lion — Breaking the Gouhns — Return 
Home — Ignorance of the Actors in Yamseh ...... 136 



CHAPTER XI. 

A VISIT TO ROUND ISLAND. 

Departure from Port Louis— The Voyage — Arrival and Difficulty of Landing 
— Size and Formation of the Island — The Flora — Dinner — Preparations for 
sleeping — Fishing— Geological Description of the Island . . . 141 



CHAPTER XII. 

MT SECOND VISIT TO ROUND ISLAND. 

Invitation — The Voyage — Arrival — Object of Visit — My Share of the Work — 
Dinner — Departure of the 'Victoria' — Our Preparations for the Night, 
and the Storm's — ' In Thunder, Lightning, and in Rain ' — Our Exodus from 
the Cave — Night and Morning — Preparations for Breakfast — Entomology 
under Difficulties— Sail ho ! — Homeward boimd — In Port Louis at last — 
Fauna of Round Island — Extracts from Sir H. Barkly's Report — Quotations 
from Letter . . . . . . . . . . . .153 



CHAPTER XIII. 

A CHINESE FESTIVAL. 

Preparations — Joss — Description of Temple — Ceremonies — Gambling — 

Opera — Pantomime 170 

A 



>ii , CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

AN EXCURSION UP THE POUCE MOUNTAIN. 

PAGK 

Early Morning — Begin our Ascent — Cardinal's Nest — Old Forts — Tunnel 
under the Pouce — The Shoulder — The Summit — Ferns — View — Ento- 
mology of the Mountain— Descent — Echo — Notes on different Ascents of 
the Peter Both Mountain 178 

CHAPTER XV. 

REDUIT. 

Irs Vicissitudes — Reason of its first Establishment — Alleged Establishment — 
Its Interior and Exterior — No Change under M. de Brillane — Anecdote of 
Bartolomeo — DijBFerence of its Treatment under Sir R. Farquhar and his 
Successors — Mauritius threatened with Monsters — Destruction of tbe Cause 
of the Threat — Sir W. Gromm's Rule — Reduit in the Hands of Sir Henry 
Barkly and his Lady — Description of Scenery — Greological Features — 
Ghosts — My nas -Ferns and Fernery ^Ravages of Cyclone of 1868 . 187 

CHAPTER XVI. 

THE MAERIAGE CEREMONY OF THE MADRAS MALABAR INDIANS. 

Permission to visit a Wedding-feast — Preliminary Ceremonies — Initiation of 
Bridegroom — Initiation of Bride — Intermediate Ablutions and Change of 
Dress — Description of the Bride's second Appearance — The actual 
Marriage — Presents to the Groom, and his Share of the Proceedings — Only 
Food allowed the Wedded Pair — Sprees on the Third Day — Consummation. 194 

CHAPTER XVII. 

FLAT ISLAND. 

Our Skipper — View inland — Turtle Bay — Old French Fort — Grand Baie 
— Whales — Cannonier's Point — Land near Grand Baie — Fishing — 
Gunner's Quoin — The Pass — Our Welcome — Quarantine Station — Water 
Supply — Wells — Plants and Trees — Our Quarters — Landing-bridge — 
Columba Rock— On the Reefs — Corals — Polyps — Zoophytes — Algse — 
Palisade Bay — Lighthouse — Cemetery — The Mountain — Geological Fea- 
tures — Caves — Gabriel Island — The Quoin — Detached Rocks on Mountain 
— Volcanoes supposed to have been in this Vicinity — Return . . . 200 

CHAPTER XVm. 
LA CHASSE. 

The Hunting Season in Mauritius — Game preserved — An Invite — On the Way 
to the Meet — Our Posts — TheQuartiersMilitaires— Howl obeyed Orders — 
Our Game — Ferns -Our Comrades' Luck — Our Count — A Wild Boar — Re- 
turn from the Chasse — Distribution of Game — Description of Cochon Marron 211 



CONTENTS, xiii 

CHAPTER XIX. 

A HINDOO FESTIVAL. 

PAGE 

Deities principally worshipped at this Fete — Temple at Roche Bois — Dress of 
both Sexes — The Old Man and his Jugglery — Burning and Flogg ng — 
Priests and Dancing Girls — Indian Musical Ideas — WalkingthroughFire — 
Sham Human Sacrifice — January Fete — Crowds in Attendance — Gouhns — 
The Priest's Blessing — Refreshments — Jewellers plying their Trade — Idols 
— Torture as a Means to fulfil a Vow, or secure future Benefits — Rolling 
round the Temple — Breaking Cocoa-nuts — The Tank — Ordeal by Diving — 
Sinnatambou — Precepts of the Shastras in Reference to these degrading 
Rites 22J 

CHAPTER XX. 
ACROSS COUNTRY TO THE DYA-MAMOU AND OTHER FALLS. 

Advice to Stay-at-homes — Invitation — Leaving the City — Into the Woods to 
Fresanges — Ravenalas — Dhoodie — Nisiht and Morning — Rain no Eifect on 
our Spirits — Contrast of Colour in Woods — Our Guide and Woodsmen — 
Ferns-^Banks of the Riviere du Poste — Grand River, SE. — The Dya- 
Mamou — The Caves —Cascade of Roche Platte — Back into the Woods 
— A Path for us, Death to the Shrubs and Creepers — Carias — Wasps' 
Nests — Swallows' Cave — A Skull — Story of Slave Woman — The Return — 
Incredulity of Friends .......... 235 

CHAPTER XXI. 

ON THE SEA, IN AND NEAR PORT LOUIS HARBOUR, WITH 
DESCRIPTIONS OF SOME OF THE WONDERS THEREIN. 

Start from Home — Embarking at the Trou Fanfaron — Docks, &c. — Landing 
Bullocks — Scarcity of Shipping — Timber-ship unloading — Abundance 
of Fish — Clearness of Water — Finding Caulerpa and Haliophila — De- 
scription of Hydrometridse — Errantia — Coasts of Mauritius — Reefs and 
Fringing Corals — Their Polyps — Boat touching the Reefs — Sharks and 
other Monsters — Echinas— Fishing up Corals — Their Inhabitants — Fungi 
Agariciformis — Preparing Corals for Sale — The Beauty of the Depths — 
Origin of Barkly — Barkly Island — Its Shells and Algae— Aquariums — 
Crabs under the Rocks — Surface Corals of Species I have not hitherto found 
— Champagne Bottles ; the vinous Fumes equally mischievous to Man 
and Reptiles — Actinias — Pugnacious Eels — Breakfast — Tea versus Beer or — 
Brandy — Dragging the Tide-pools — Flying Laffs — Gymnobranchiata — 
Soldier and Hermit Crabs — Leaving the Island — Examining the Contents 
of Fishermen's Bags — Ourites — Lobsters — Butterflies out at Sea — Holo- 
thuroidse — Overboard to dig up Pinnae — Dolabella Rumphii Shells — 
Tropic Birds— The Mud Laffs — Terrible Wounds inflicted by them — Sunset 
Visions — Return to the Trou Fanfaron 246 



xiv CONTENTS. . 

CHAPTER XXII. 
A TOUR EOUND THE ISLAND. 



PA BE 



My Comrades and Preparations — Grand River^Kcenig's Tower — Race- 
jockeys — Denmark Hill — Point aux Caves — Caverns — Probable Origin of 
the Petite Riviere Caverns — Strange Sights — A Night on the Rocks — 
Pishing a la Patatrand — Plaines of St. Pierre — Grand Prospect from our 
Dining-room — Fight with a Tazarre — Rempart River — The Trois 
Mamelles — Catching Prawns — Tamarind River and Bay — Catching Olives 
— Raspberries— Rats and Tenrecs Sharers in our Bedroom — Up the 
Bed of the River — Our Night's Lodging — Point Flinders— Account of 
Captain Flinders — The Tamarind Falls — Geneve Estate — Black River — 
The Morne — Flying Foxes — Bale du Cap — A Python Creeper — The 
Chamarel Falls — The Bel Ombre Estate — Jacotet Bay — Its Historic 
Interest-^EfFect of the Winds on the neighbouring District —River des 
Galets — Actinias —A Marine Garden — Night-fishing — Falls of the River 
des Galets — Bay of Souillac — The Savane — The Bois Sec — Tree Ferns — 
Grand Bassin — Savane Falls — River du Poste — The Coast near the 
Souffleur — Pont Naturel — Bras de Mer de Chaland — Point d'Esny — Grand 
Port — Isle Passe — Mahebourg — The Cemetery ..... 282 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

VISIT TO THE ISLE DE PASSE, AND CONTINUATION OF TOUR. 

Preparation for Visit — River Creoles — Crater in Mahebourg Bay — Isle de 
Passe — The Return — Aground — En route again — Point au Diable — 
Mountain Ranges — Camisard — Its Geology — Ferns, &c. — Grand River SE. 
— The Falls — The Beauchamp Estate — Statue to the Virgin — Trou d'Eau 
douce — Point Hollandais — Annelides — Holothuriae, &c. — Flacq — General 
Description — St. Antoine— Amber Island — Caverns — Islets in Mapou Bhv 
— Polyp — Sunset^ — Arrival of English Fleet in Mapou Bay — Holicanthu.-i 
semicirculatus — Battle with a Cave Eel — Situation of Pamplemousses - - 
The Garde Qs and Churches — On the Road to Port Louis — Cemetery ol 
Bois Marchand — Peter Both — St. Croix — Olden Boundaries of Port Louif 
and Defences — The City and its Cries ..... . 327 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

THE HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. 

From its Discovery by the Portuguese, in 1505, through the various Changes 
of Govprnment it has undergone during its Possession by the Dutch, then 
by the French, and lastly, by the English, to February 1871 . . 351 



CONTENTS. XV. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE GEOGRAPHY OF MAURITIUS, ITS DEPEN- 
DENCIES, CIVIL AND MILITARY STATISTICS, VARIOUS INDUSTRIES, 

COMMERCE, ETC. 

rAGK 

The Geography of Mauritius — Its Physical Aspect and Climate — Its Depen- 
dencies—Account of Seychelles — Internal Communication — Post Office and 
Foreign Telegraph Scheme — Hackney Coaches, «fec. — Defences, Military, 
Police and Naval — Money, Weights and Measures — Banks — Credit 
Foncier, &c. — The various Industries of Mauritius — Foreign Commerce- 
Decadence of Commercial Affairs generally . . . . . .412 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

THE GOVERNMENT OF MAURITIUS AND ITS VARIOUS ESTABLISHMENTS, 
WITH THE DIFFERENT RELIGIONS IN THE COLONY. 

The Chief Officers of the Government — The various Departments — Savings' 
Bank — Episcopal Church of Port Louis — Other Protestant Churches in the 
Colony — Roman Catholic Sacred Edifices — Convents — Mohammedan 
Mosque — Its Worship — Fast and Feast — Catholic Fete-Dieu — Procession 
— Raising the Host, &c. . . . . . . . . . .441 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

THE ROYAL COLLEGE, PRIVATE AND GOVERNMENT SCHOOLS, 
AND THE MUSEUM. 

Schools when the Island was under French Rule — M. Boyer — Assistance 
given to him— Rules and Course of Instruction in the Colonial College — 
Its Use as a Hospital — Its Rehabilitation, and new Title — Pupils sent to the 
Royal College from Abroad — Hurricane in 1824 — Repairing Damages — A 
Pupil sent yearly to England — Disciplinary Reform by Mr. Redle — Causes 
of Failure — A more practical Education required— A new Rector and ne:w 
Hopes — Schools suffering from the Fever in 1867— English taught, but 
small Results — Effect and Show too much sought for in Education — Music 
— Boys' Schools — Government Schools — Unwillingness of Coolies to be 
taught — Sums collected notwithstanding Fever — Curious ISotes on the 
Effect of Fever on various Studies— Oriental and Creole Characters — 
Course of Studies — Number of Schools, Teachers, &c. — -Visit to the 
' Asile '- — State of the Place when first occupied — Its present Aspect — 
Varied Races — Products of Grounds — Rules and Regulations — Dinner — 
Drill — Bed-time- -First Natural History Society — Its Aims — Its Prospects 
under Governors Farquhar and Hall — The Society of 1829 — Baron Cuvier 
— Foreign Correspondents and Members — Allowance for a Curator — MM. 
Desjardins and d'Epinay — The Society's Name in 1847 — Exhibitions — 
The one in 1860— Early Morning Scenes at an Exhibition — Ordinary 
Articles exhibited — The Visitors — Collections in the Museum — Paintings 
■ — M. Louis Bouton 450 



xvi CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 
IMMIGRATION. 

PAGE 

A new Era for English Colonies — When and How the Abolition Act was 
brought in Force — Number of Slaves — Introduction of Coolies — Bad 
Management — Valuation of Slaves — Ex-Apprentices — Immigration renewed 
— Cholera — Agricultural Progress — Changed Condition of Malabars after 
residing here — Tickets and Photographs — Camps — Fever — Death-Rate — 
Report of Mr. Beyts — Cost of Establishment and other Statistics — Arrears 
of "Wages — Immigration Tables — Facts respectingvarious Castes of Indians 469 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

SUGAR AND THE SUGAR-CANE. 

Its History — Mode of Culture — Parasites that attack it — Its Manufacture — 
AmouTit exported and Monetary Value — Dr. Icery's Process . . . 490 

APPENDIX. 
Letter of Surwurrah 511 



LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. 



Louis 



The Author and his Collection 
View of St. Thomas .... 

^Sugar-Loaf Hill .... 

Table Mountain .... 

Tristan d'Acunha .... 

Port Louis ...... 

Statue of Labourdonnais, Place d'Armes 

Theatre, Port Louis 

Cathedral, Port Louis 

Tropical Lake Scene . 

The Eaces at the Champ de Mars, Port 

Pond Scene ..... 

The Moharrum ok Yamseh 

A Fern 

A Butterfly ..... 

Tropical Scene ..... 

Lighthouse Rock, Flat Island . 

The Gunners Quoin .... 

Deer in the Jungle . 

Butterfly ..... 

Polyp Eggs. Different Developments of the Polyps 

Submarine View .... 

Mud Laff ...... 



page 

Frontispiece 

To face 4 
. 27 
. 29 
. 33 

To face 57 
. 59 
. 61 
. 70 
. 76 

To face 83 
. 127 

To face 136 
. 151 
. 186 
. 192 
. 206 
. 207 

To face 214 
. 217 
. 254 
. 272 
. 278 



xviii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, 

PAGE 

The Ocean ............. 280 

Les Trois Mamelles To face 294 

The -Tamarind Mountains » 302 

The Morne 304 

The Chamarel Falls To face 309 

Baie du Cap .......... ,,310 

The Bay of Souillac ........ ,, 317 

GrRANB BaSSIN . ,,319 

Cascade of the River Savane ...... „ 320 

The Souffleur „ 321 

Le Pont Naturel „ 322 

Point au Diable 326 

Mahebourg Barracks 329 

Camping 337 

New Mapotj Bay 344 

Protestant Church ........... 347 

Sketch of Island 350 

PisTACHE Nut 462 

Creole sitting ............ 474 

Indian Woman 475 

Indian Man and Woman 476 

Indian Woman and Child 486 

Larva and Pupa. Diseased Sugar-Cane 501 

Cane-Plant 503 

The Authi;r"s Dog ' Quilp' 509 



ana grass grows m tne once busy streets. This city contained 
more rabid secessionists at the commencement of the Rebellion 

B 



Pago 528. 



Sefpen/s 



\55\ 



SUB-TEOPICAL RAMBLES. 



CHAPTER I. 

Leaving Home — Ball at Piney Point — In the Gulf Stream — St. Thomas — Santa 
Cruz — Guadaloupe — Mr. Chaplain's Death — Barbadoes — Pernambuco — Oleuda 
— Eio — Description of the City — ^Public Gardens — Emperor's Garden — A Night 
in the Porest — Excursion up the Corcorada — Snakes — Descent — Public Squares 
— Departure from Rio. 

On being appointed Consul for the Island of Mauritius, a passage, 
through the politeness of the Secretary of the Navy, was 
offered me in the United States steamer 'Monocacy,' of 1,030 
tons, carrying ten guns, and commanded by Captain S. P. 
Carter, formerly Major-General Carter of the army. 

This ship was built for river service, but not being completed 
before the termination of the war, she was detailed for foreign 
service. 

As we put in at many places on my way to my distant 
appointment, I shall take a few notes at random from my 
journal, which may interest those whose tastes lead them to 
foreign travel, while their occupations prevent them visiting- 
places so very foreign. 

On August 18, 1866, we weighed anchor from the navy yard 
at Washington, and steamed down the Potomac, the day bright 
and calm as could be wished. We passed many fortifications 
on the Maryland side, now happily dismantled of their guns, 
and then slowly steamed by Alexandria. Before the war this was 
a thriving place of business. Now most of the stores are closed, 
and grass grows in the once busy streets. This city contained 
more rabid secessionists at the commencement of the Kebellion 

B 




liTepaned /or 37cek -Siib -Tropical Rumbles, 



-£i^vmez.I.tiw.&d.J.imiS^ 



Hihitsfied by Sampsorv Lav,; Mar^ton., low. & Searle; (rawro Buildings, 18S M£e(- Str^ ioruhn,. 



2 A NEGRO BALL, [Ch. I. 

than any other. It was here the rebels planted on the Marshal 
House their bars and stars, which, to the annoyance of ail true 
and loyal men, could be plainly seen at Washington. 

In the evening we anchored off Piney Point, Virginia, and I 
went on shore with Captain Carter. 

There was a ball at the hotel we visited, and we were 
politely invited to join in the dance, but declined the honour, 
and took our seats as spectators. 

The band consisted of six darkies, playing a violin, cornet-a- 
piston, flute, banjo, bones, and triangle. An old grey-headed 
man called out the figures with most amusing gesticulations, 
and contortions of face and body, as he gave out at the top of 
his voice : ' Gremmen to de right, misses to de lef; go in dar 
boys, the Avar am over, we all broders once more ! ' and then, 
casting a look at me, ' Massa's from de North, good times am 
coming.' 

The ladies were dressed in fashionable style, very decolleUes, 
and the fun went on ' fast and furious.' Soon tired of this, we 
went into the bar-room, where two darkies were busily mixing- 
brandy smashes and mint juleps for the waiting crowds. There 
were a good many boarders in the house, as the neighbourhood 
supplied excellent sport for the angler, and is noted for oysters. 
Most of the gentlemen were Southerners ; but when they saw 
that we were United States Grovernment officers, they treated us 
with great politeness, conversed freely on the late war, ad- 
mitted that a great mistake had been made, and wished by- 
gones to be by-gones. 

In the morning we left Piney Point, steamed through 
Chesapeake Bay, passed Fortress Monroe, and the Eip Eaps, 
Norfolk, and Portsmouth, and entered Grosport navy yard. 
Here we coaled, took in eighty more men, the balance of our 
crew, and then went into the dry dock for some alterations. 

The ' Monocacy ' was a new, untried vessel ; and from her 
conduct hitherto she had inspired the crew with great distrust 
of her sailing capacities and seaworthiness, but I confess I did 
not share their fears. 

On the 28th we got in our shot and shell, and on the 29th 
were towed out to the Hampton Eoads, and made fast to the 
Grovernment buoys, whilst the deviation of the compass 
was ascertained. 



Cii. I.] THE GULF STREAM. 3 

I amused myself with capturing some of the pretty medusae 
sailing round about the sliip. Some of them I had never seen, 
particularly one of a chestnut colour, the body about three 
inches in diameter, with tentaculoe more than a yard long, and 
others of a pale blue, radiating all the hues of the solar 
spectrum. I caught up some sea-weeds too, prominent among 
which were the Cera'inium rubrum, Fucus nodosus and 
vesiculosus, Ulva linza, Entoromorpha intestinalis, and 
several species of GaltithamniuTn, all common to our coast. 

On August 30 the pilot took us out, and after passing Fort 
Henry we bade adieu to the United States, and were soon under 
way for the broad Atlantic. 

It was with saddened feelings I looked my last on the shores 
of my native land, and thought, ' It may be for years, or it 
may be for ever,' I was saying adieu to home and friends. 

Once out at sea, order began to reign in the ship ; the men 
were mustered, and articles of war read, sails unfurled, and the 
monotony of ship life began. 

By September 3 we were running down the Grulf Stream, 
with splendid weather. This remarkable stream has its 
fountain-head in the Grulf of Mexico, and its mouth in the 
Arctic Sea, and has a current more rapid than the Mississippi 
or Amazon. 

The velocity of this current, however, varies greatly. Accord- 
ing to Dana, ' Off Florida it is from three to five miles per 
hour, and in the Polar current has a rate of less than one mile. 
It is of great depth.' 

Dr. Franklin was of opinion that the G-ulf Stream was formed 
by the escaping waters, forced into the Carribean Sea by the 
trade winds, and that the pressure of these winds upon the 
waters of this ocean forced up a head sea. 

It is stated that the chemical properties, or (if the expression 
be admissible) the galvanic properties, of the Gulf Stream 
waters, as they come from their fountains are different, or 
rather more intense than they are in sea-water generally. In 
1843 the Secretary of the Navy took measures for procuring a 
series of experiments and observations with regard to the 
corrosive effects of sea-water upon the copper sheathing of 
ships. With patience, care, and labour, these researches 
were carried on for ten years, and the fact has been established 



4 THE ISLAND OF ST. THOMAS. [Ch. I. 

that the copper on the bottom of ships cruising in the Carri- 
bean Sea and Grulf of Mexico suffers more than in any other 
part of the ocean. That is, the salts in these waters create 
the most powerful galvanic battery that is found in the ocean. 

Professor Harvey states that the vegetation has a strong 
resemblance to that of the Mediterranean. ' Sea-weeds are 
borne on the Grulf Stream in such quantities, and thrown off 
the inner side of the current into the great area of still water 
in the centre of the Atlantic, that a part of it takes the name 
of the Sea of Sargassa, from the name of a common weed of 
the order Fucacece.^ 

On the evening of the 7th a heavy squall struck the vessel. 
Fortunately we were prepared for it, and had everything 
secured. It lasted all night ; the rain fell in torrents, the 
thunder rolled deeply, and the vivid flashes of the lightning 
were blinding. 

The gale reached its height at ten o'clock a.m. on the 8th, 
after which it gradually subsided, and land was sighted from 
the mast-head. 

It proved to be St. Thomas, one of the islands of the West 
Indian group. Towards evening we were close in, but had great 
difficulty in getting a pilot, and it was ten o'clock at night be- 
fore we were safely anchored. 

The town of St. Thomas, which is the capital, is prettily 
situated at the base of a lofty ridge of mountains, which extends 
the whole length of the island, some of whose highest peaks 
rise to the altitude of 1,700 feet. 

The island is about twelve miles long by three or four broad. 
It belongs to Denmark, is a free port, and has a larger commerce 
than any other West Indian island. It is the general rendez- 
vous of our men-of-war, which have a special anchorage ; there 
is also a government coal depot there. It has a dry dock, but 
no iron-foundries, so that no metal work for shipping can be 
repaired. 

On Sunday I attended the Episcopalian Church, where the 
minister gave a very impressive sermon from the second verse 
of the third chapter of St. James' Epistle. The principal 
thoroughfare of St. Thomas is King Street, containing English, 
French, and American stores for merchandise. I found everything 
at least thirty per cent, cheaper than in the United States. 



Ch. I.] BLUE BEARD CASTLE. 5 

The bay of St. Thomas is a fine one, open to the south, and 
can be entered at any time with the prevailing trade winds, and 
is perfectly safe except in hurricane months. Near the landing- 
is a water-battery, and behind it an old Dutch fortification 
which commands the harbour, called Christian's Fort. 

It is very ancient. Three or four hundred soldiers are 
stationed there, and it is a residence of the Grovernor. From a 
high hill at the back of the town, called P>ench Hill, which I 
climbed, I had a fine view of the whole place. 

The ex-President and Greneral-in-chief of Mexico, Santa Anna, 
has taken up his quarters in a fine house on this hill. 

On the spur of a mountain called Kiari is a remarkable stone 
tower named Blue Beard Castle, an antique- looking pile. It is 
240 feet above the level of the sea, and, with the house adjoin- 
ing, was purchased some years ago. It was in a sad state of 
dilapidation ; but the owner, thinking it would make a good 
look-out or summer-house, put it in repair. 

On excavating the earth, he found the tower had once been 
fortified, and eight or ten guns were dug out of the ruins. He 
had them cleaned, and mounted on earthworks round the 
tower. 

It is supposed that it was built by the pirates and freebooters 
of the last century, as a stronghold in case of attack. It is 
well known that within the recollection of this generation they 
had places of refuge in the mountains. 

Fruits and vegetables are exposed for sale under the trees in 
the square in King Street, and considering they are nearly all 
raised in Santa Cruz, at a distance of thirty-eight miles, all were 
very moderate in price. 

I should say that, as fish abound on this coast, this was a 
capital place for a student of ichthyology. 

I added to my collection some beautiful sea-weeds, from the 
tide-pools, to which the well-known lines of the poet beginning 
with ' full many a gem ' apply admirably. Large piles of king- 
fish, from five to twenty pounds weight, are constantly for sale 
as well as the angel-fish {Helicanthus ciliaris), and quantities 
of snappers and grunts. There were the peculiarly-formed cow- 
fish (Ostracion sex cornutus), the peacock-fish {Gheitodon 
vulgaris), zebra-fish (Eavaretas), and the hog-fish — which in 
spite of its name is one of the most graceful of fish in the water. 



6 SANTA CRUZ. [Ch. I. 

and capital for eating too — and, in short, a variety too numerous 
to mention. 

We left St. Thomas, on December 14, for Santa Cruz, and 
let go our anchor in the harbour of Frederickstadt in the 
evening. 

The singular clearness of the water here is very remarkable. 
We lay in a depth of thirty feet, yet we could distinctly see the 
corals and gorgonas at the bottom. Sharks abound ; and a story 
was told us of an incident that occurred a few days before our 
arrival, of a Danish seaman, who was missing for two days ; and 
a fisherman capturing one of these monsters, found portions of 
a human body in it, still undigested, and part of a shirt with 
the man's name on it. It was supposed he had fallen overboard, 
and been instantly devoured. 

I called on the consul, Mr. Moore, and afterwards strolled 
about the place, which has a Spanish look, and reminded me of 
Vigo, in Spain. 

Santa Cruz is called the garden of the West Indies. Most of 
the houses are of one storey, with prettily laid out grounds 
round them, and when viewed at a distance the island has the 
appearance of a highly- cultivated garden. 

It contains about 1 2,000 inhabitants ; exports sugar, mo- 
lasses, rum and cotton, and supplies steamers with firewood. 
It is unfortunately subject to frequent droughts (possibly 
caused by the cutting down of the forests), and is said to be 
very unhealthy for strangers. I noticed in the churchyard that 
a large percentage of the deaths were caused by yellow fever, as 
incribed on the tombstones. 

On the 1 7th we left Santa Cruz, and on the 1 8th were close to 
Basseterre, on the south-west of the island of Guadaloupe, and 
reached Point Petre that night. 

The upper part of the town is clean and well paved, and 
appears to have very comfortable buildings. All the lower 
parts reek in squalor and filth, and I do not wonder at the 
cholera having made such frightful ravages there. In 1865 it 
carried off 25,000 victims. The heat was most oppressive at 
this time ; and the volcano, the Souffriere, was emitting flames 
and thick volumes of smoke. 

The fish- market is a curious establishment. The vendors 
are negro women, who sit behind a grating of large iron bars 



Ch. I.] AN EARTHQUAKE, 7 

under a tin roof. Crowds of whites and negroes are elbowing 
each other, and making a Babel of noise to get at the bars. A 
particular fish is pointed out by the purchaser, when it is 
weighed and priced, but never passed through till paid for. 
Exorbitant prices were the rule. I chose a Grauper of about two 
pounds weight, and they asked me two dollars and a half for it. 

The Governor and Commander-in-chief of the military forces 
visited us on board, themselves and suite in full uniform ; 
the former was certainly one of the handsomest men I ever 
saw. 

A terrible earthquake occurred here in 1843. After the 
disaster that spread ruin on all sides, fire, the constant ally of 
earthquakes, broke out and completed the work of destruction. 
A shocking incident was related to me. A young girl rushed 
out of her father's house to save herself, when some timbers 
from a ruined building fell on her, and held her firmly to the 
spot by the lower extremities. She called loudly for help ; and 
on a soldier trying to rescue her, and finding his efforts vain, 
she begged of him to cut off her legs so as to save her from 
the fire, which was advancing with giant strides. He drew his 
sword to comply, but his heart failed him and he fled, and in a 
few minutes the poor girl was consumed ; 4,000 bodies were 
dug out of the ruins. Famine followed, and the survivors were 
reduced to eat the canes in the fields for sustenance. I was 
informed that one part of the harbour of Point Petre, which 
before this event was capable of admitting ships of the heaviest 
burden, became completely choked up with rocks, forced up 
from the bottom of the sea. 

I intended visiting the crater, which is about fifteen miles 
distant from the harbour, but the weather was too sultry to 
venture on so much exertion ; so went on shore in the evening 
to take a quiet walk with Mr. Chaplain, the chief officer of 
the ' Monocacy ; ' but he was suddenly taken so ill that we 
were obliged to return. 

On the 22nd we steamed out of Point Petre bay, and ran 
along the coast, which looked beautiful with its fields of waving 
canes ; and we found the change of temperature most delightful 
as we got out into the broad ocean, after being nearly roasted 
at Guadaloupe. 

It was decided to run down to Pernambuco, a distance of 



8 FUNERAL AT SEA. [Ch. I. 

2,500 miles ; but the next day Mr. Chaplain was worse. The 
doctor asked me to visit him, and when we entered his room 
he was taken with a severe fit. He then became speechless, 
and though every care was bestowed that medical aid could give, 
he soon breathed his last. His body was taken on deck, and a 
place was prepared for it abaft the starboard wheel. It was 
placed on a platform shrouded with the American flag, and his 
sword laid by his side. 

Our colours were hoisted half-mast, and the ship's course 
changed to Barbadoes, where we soon arrived, and anchored at 
Bridgetown, the capital. 

The news of the death spread like wildfire over the ship ; 
the men spoke of it in hurried whispers. They could hardly 
believe that he who had so lately issued his orders in a stentorian 
voice from the deck should now be lying on it, silent for ever ; 
that the man who had so gallantly defended his country against 
rebellion should be now powerless, conquered by a mightier 
hand. Officers and men were deeply affected ; not a smile was 
on the lips of any of that rough crew. Many had been Mr. 
Chaplain's comrades in arms during the late war, and had 
witnessed his daring acts of bravery, and I can truly say he was 
most sincerely regretted. As soon as we arrived at Bridgetown, 
preparations were made for the funeral. A plain coffin, covered 
with blue cloth, received the remains, dressed in full uniform. 
A boat from H.B.M. frigate ' Buzzard,' with officers and men, 
came alongside to pay respect to the dead. After a short funeral 
service the coffin was lowered into the ship's launch, attended by 
the deceased's coxswain and boat's crew. It was towed by the 
cutter, rowed with muffled oars, the ensign trailing in the 
water, and followed by all our boats and those of the ' Buzzard.' 
Not a word was spoken, the rattling of the muskets of the 
marines, as they landed, alone breaking the silence. The coffin 
was placed on a richly-plumed hearse, and the marines flanked 
it, trailing their muskets. Mr. Chaplain's sword and epaulettes, 
on a cushion, were borne after it by his coxswain. 

TheGrovernor in his carriage, the Commander of the ' Buzzard,' 
and all the officers of both ships, with the principal Americans 
and English of the place, followed. The cortege passed slowly 
through the town to St. Leonard's, where the impressive service 
of the Episcopal church was read, and a short address was given 



Ch. I.] BARBADOES. 9 

on the uncertainty of human life, especially to a soldier or 
sailor, and the necessity of ever being prepared to meet death. 
On arriving at the cemetery, the coffin was placed in a leaden 
one, and as it was lowered to its last resting-place, the marines 
fired a salute, which the frigate answered with minute-guns. 
When the minister read the solemn words, ' Dust to dust,' each 
one threw a spray of green leaves into the grave, as he bid 
adieu to the friend to be left behind buried in a strange land, 
far from his home and kindred. 

Barbadoes is an important part of the British West Indian 
possessions. The island is twenty miles long and twelve broad, 
and contains about 136,000 inhabitants. Like most other 
sugar-planting countries, the greater part of the timber has 
been cut down to make way for the canes. There is little high 
land, but it gradually declines from the centre to the coast. 
The highest point is Mount Willoughby, and that is only 1,000 
feet above sea level. There is little indication of volcanic 
action. In the southern parts of the island the land rises in 
terraces, one above the other. The plains are highly cultivated, 
but the northern side has a very broken surface, and is much 
less fertile. 

Considerable quantities of petroleum, which is used instead 
of pitch, and serves for lamp oil, are found here. There is also 
a burning spring similar to the Eetsamola, in the Apennines. 

The climate of Barbadoes is in general healthy, is less humid 
in consequence of the light calcareous soil rapidly absorbing 
the rain, and enjoys a greater immunity from epidemic diseases 
than the other West Indian islands. Tornadoes and hurricanes 
which cause great damage to the shipping, are frequent during 
the months of August, September, and October. Bridge- 
town, the capital, is about two miles in extent. It contains 
good roads and some fine buildings, and in the principal square 
is a statue of Lord Nelson. On the 25th we weighed anchor, 
and again proceeded on our way to Pernambuco. Little 
occurred on our voyage, except a court martial on two men for 
getting drunk ; a sham fight ; a temporary alarm of fire, happily 
quickly allayed ; and an excitement from an iron pin in the 
rudder getting loose ; all of which, though but little to relate, 
caused breaks in our monotonous life at sea. 

When still far from our port of destination it was found that 



lo CAPE ST. ROQUE. [Ch. I. 

we had only five days' coal, and there was a question of our 
putting back to Ceara ; as we were not only dependent on coal 
for steaming, but for the condenser, which supplied the whole 
crew with water for drinking. We fell in with the Brazilian 
packet ' Percemuga,' just from Pernambuco, with a pilot on 
board, whom the captain asked if we would take. We sent a 
boat for him, and were glad of his services, particularly as he 
spoke English well. 

As we approached Cape St. Roque, the waves were dashing 
furiously over an almost perpendicular rock, apparently of red 
clay formation. The shore in the distance looked like glittering 
heaps of white sand. We were close enough to see the houses, 
and fine groves of cocoa-nut trees. 

Close to the cape I observed a church, which the pilot 
told me was that of ' Nossa Senhora dos Navigates.' In most 
Portuguese seaports, chapels, or niches enclosing an image of 
the Virgin, are built on the shore, where those about to embark 
pray for a prosperous voyage, while the friends and relatives 
offer up prayers for their safe return. 

Numbers of natives on janguardas were fishing on the coral 
reefs ; some of these are large and carry a sail ; others so small 
that only one man can sit on them. As the fellows paddle 
along some distance from the shore, it seemed as if half their 
bodies were submerged, and it was only as the frail crafts rose 
on the waves that it could be seen they were not floating on 
the water. These janguardas are formed of four or more logs 
of wood bound together, having a mast and large awkward- 
looking sail. They have no sides, so that every wave can 
break over them, yet the fishermen go a long distance from land 
on them. 

All along the coast are fish pounds, similar to those I had seen 
in Algarve (Portugal). They are circular enclosures, which 
admit the fish at high water. As the tide recedes, the fish 
swim into the deeper water in the centre. The fishermen at low 
water go on their janguardas, and take their prey in a dip-net 
and carry them alive to the markets, in boxes made for the 
purpose, which they tow astern of their frail vessels. 

Here we began to notice the splendour of the Southern con- 
stellations. Venus, from her great brilliancy in these latitudes, 
especially attracted our attention. 



Ch. I.] COCOA-NUT ISLAND, ii 

On October 8 we arrived off the port of Pernambuco ; but 
the pilot we had taken out at sea was not allowed to bring the 
ship into harbour, as there was a government officer for that 
express purpose ; so we had to remain outside, pitching and 
rolling about in a heavy swell. Early in the morning the 
pilot brought us in, and we dropped anchor under the reefs. 

The port contains a sort of natural breakwater, running in 
a straight line, for nearly three-quarters of a mile, directly in 
front of the city. This appears to be of tertiary formation, and 
lies just above the surface of the water. The Portuguese have 
built a strong brick wall on this reef, to protect it from the 
violence of the waves. 

A large hulk neatly painted is moored in the harbour, and 
serves as a school-ship for the Brazilian navy. The reefs of 
Pernambuco run parallel to the shore, at about 800 yards dis- 
tance, for many miles. 

A small octagonal tower called the Tour de Picas, erected on 
the shore, mounts several guns. On the opposite shore is an old 
fort called Castel de Bruno, built in 1640, and with the Tour de 
Picas protects the harbour, as the channel is very narrow here. 

Vessels drawing more than 16 or 17 feet of water are 
obliged to anchor outside, but to those that can enter Per- 
nambuco offers a safe and excellent harbour. At its entrance, 
on the eastern side of the reef, is a fine lighthouse, which ex- 
hibits three distinct lights from sunset to sunrise. There are 
two white and one red, and these make a complete revolution 
every ten minutes, and are visible from twelve to fifteen miles 
at sea. 

To the south of Pernambuco lies Cocoa-nut Island, that has 
acquired a sort of notoriety from two hundred and fifty 
American seamen having for some time resided there. Maffit 
the pirate, after destroying and plundering several unarmed 
American vessels, finding their crews getting troublesome on his 
hands, compelled a French trader to take them into Pernambuco, 
and hand them over to our consul, Mr. Adamson, who took 
charge of them and placed them on this island until arrange- 
ments could be made to send them home. 

This is one of the most important provinces in the Brazils, 
second only to Eio and Bahia, and with proper care would yield 
immensely ; but from th© careless way in which everything is 



12 PERNAMBUCO. [Ch. I. 

done, and its agriculture in as backward a state, scarcely enough 
is raised for the consumption of the people. 

It contains 1,180,000 inhabitants, 250,000 of whom are 
slaves employed on the sugar and coffee plantations. In the 
western part the country people grow a coarse kind of sugar 
{Mandixa farinhio) and vegetables. It is said to be celebrated 
for a fine-flavoured grape, highly prized by the Brazilians. 

The city of Pernambuco is divided into three districts, called 
San Pedro de Gronsalvo or Recife, Boa Vista, and San Antonio. 

The principal buildings are seventeen Catholic churches, one 
English Episcopal church, two monasteries, three asylums for 
girls, six hospitals, a theatre, custom-house, dockyard, arsenal, 
marine and military barracks, with a Lyceum, two Latin and 
seventy-five primary schools. There are three newspapers 
issued daily, two of them in Portuguese and one in English, 
giving the general news of the day, and these as far as I could 
judge were very ably conducted. 

The appearance of Pernambuco from the sea is not attrac- 
tive ; and, as a great part of it is built on low flat land, little of 
the city is visible. The large white tower of the arsenal on 
the Prayos, with some of the highest buildings, are first seen ; 
but from the waves dashing over the reef and sending up 
showers of spray, their foundations are hidden, and they seem 
to rise from the waters. 

I called on Mr. Adamson, our consul, and had a very pleasant 
hour's chat with him. 

Captain Carter and myself attended the opening of the 
Exhibition by Dom Jose Perreira, and were introduced to the 
President, who received us courteously. 

The address was well conceived, giving a general review of 
the improvements made in the province during the past year, 
and comparing them with those of former years. He then 
referred to the progress made in the United States in arts and 
sciences, the wonderful strides in agriculture, and the large 
amount of cereals we produce. Also to the great inventive 
genius of America, mentioning the singular fact that, during 
the late rebellion, in the short space of three or four 
years, we had completely revolutionised modern warfare ! 
Our monitors, our great guns, our merchant ships and 
frigates, and our iron hearts and hands to man them, all were 



Ch I.] A BRAZILIAN EXHIBITION. 13 

descanted on. I listened for more than an hour, in an atmo- 
sphere of 90° Fahrenheit, and was glad to be shown to the 
exhibition-rooms, where all the products of the country were 
collected. The President offering his arm to Mrs. Adamson, our 
consul's wife, we went down to the rooms, the band playing Dom 
Pedro's march. 

The first thing that attracted our attention was a large case 
of elegant vestments which were wrought in gold and silver 
thread, probably for the clergy of the district, and a flag of 
silk richly embroidered, bearing the arms of Brazil in its centre. 
There were perfect models of ships, brigs, steamers, &c., made 
by the apprentices of the marine arsenal, and very creditably 
done. In one compartment were all the woods of the province, 
some very beautiful ; but I was informed that they had never 
been introduced as articles of commerce. I tasted some excel- 
lent wine from the fruit of the cashew, which the manufacturer 
told me would be made in such quantities the following year as 
to yield sufiicient for shipment. There were also fine samples 
of native oils and vinegars. The cereals were prominent — 
abundant and of good quality. There were fifty-two kinds of 
beans, several quite new to me. There were also very fair 
native paintings. ' On the whole it was a creditable ex- 
hibition, and pleased us greatly, as many articles were quite 
equal to European manufacture. Our time and the heat did 
not allow us to examine everything very closely, and we were 
not sorry to get into the fresh air. 

The beautiful town of Olenda is about two miles from Per- 
nambuco, and is situated on the sides of a very high hill, the 
summit of which is crowned by a large convent. For many 
years Olenda was the capital of the province, but, owing to its 
distance from the harbour rendering it unfavourable for com- 
merce, the town of Eecife has taken the preference. The pretty 
Lauristinus, or a plant very closely resembling it, flourishes 
here, and forms a beautiful contrast with the dusky olive and 
the graceful palm and cocoa-nut trees. The view from the 
hill is magnificent, looking down into the valley below and 
over the city of Pernambuco, which can be seen above the fine 
groves of mangoes and other trees. 

The captain and I visited the monastery, and were politely 
and hospitably received by the Bishop. 



H A FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. [Ch. I. 

A sumptuous repast was spread for us, and we were shown over 
the building, which is kept in fine order. There are two large 
organs in the chapel, and the seats and stands in the gallery, where 
the monks of old used to chant their services, are beautifully carved. 

In Dom Pedro's time, when the monasteries were suppressed, 
the clcck-work attached to the chimes in the tower was 
destroyed, the bells were melted, and the machinery all broken 
up, and this a priest pointed out to me lying on the floor, and 
sighed sadly as he told of its departed glories. It is still an 
open question whether the breaking-up of these monastic 
institutions did not do more harm to the labouring classes 
than the suppression of a few abuses did good. 

I must not forget the Foundling Hospital, which stands at a 
little distance from the monastery. Near the door in a recess 
is a swinging cradle, with a bell-rope attached. When a 
child is brought, it is laid in the cradle, and the bell is rung. 
Silently the cradle is turned, and the child taken out, when a 
number is placed on its neck, and a corresponding one put into 
the empty cradle, as it swings back into its place. This is to 
enable the child to be identified at any future period. No one 
is visible, no question is asked ; nothing is ever known of the 
anguish of those who thus leave their children to strangers' 
care. How many aching hearts may have stood beside that 
cradle, as the little one has been laid within, to save it from 
shame, starvation, or perhaps death ; for infanticide was preva- 
lent before the foundation of this asylum. 

We did not enter, but I could see the nurses with their Httle 
charges on the lawn in front of the place, which was very quiet, 
and in a very wholesome condition. 

Near this is a large convent, where young ladies of the best 
families are sent to be educated; and a fair proportion of 
whom become so in love with convent life as to refuse to leave 
it, and take the veil. 

The luxuriance of the vegetation in the whole province of 
Pernambuco is remarkable even for the tropics. I will not 
attempt to describe what has been so often 'done by abler pens 
than mine. It would be but a repetition of magnificent trees 
covered with wild lianes loaded with blossom, orchids which 
imitate insects and moths, birds of the brightest hues, and the 
oppressive fragrance of a tropical forest. 



Ch. I.] RIO. 15 

Some of the streets of Pernambuco are wide and spacious, 
containing handsome buildings ; but even the narrow streets 
were kept very clean, though I should mention I did not see it 
in the rainy season. 

The Palace a Campo stands near the theatre, and is a fine 
well-arranged building, with large gardens attached, filled with 
rare and beautiful exotic plants. The Palace Square seemed, 
from its position, a very desirable place of residence. 

The principal business part of the city is built on an island, 
and there is communication with the mainland by five large, 
well-built bridges. One of them is a massive iron structure, 
built by an English engineer. 

October 17 we left Pernambuco, with a fair wind, for Eio, 
where we arrived on the 23rd. , As we entered the harbour we 
found the U.S.S. flagship « Brooklyn,' and fired a salute to the 
admiral of thirteen guns, which was responded to, and her brass 
band favoured us with ' Hail Columbia ' as we passed her. 

Soon after anchoring. Captain Carter went on board the 
' Brooklyn,' and word was then sent to the ' Monocacy ' to fire 
a salute of eighty-six guns to the Brazilian, Spanish, 
Portuguese, British, and French vessels of war then in the 
harbour. It was promptly returned from all their iron mouths, 
as well as from the Brazilian forts, so that our advent made 
some stir in the place. 

As you enter Eio harbour, the scenery is grand and 
imposing. The Sugarloaf and Corcovada Mountains, with their 
bold precipitous cliffs, frown down upon you; the Organ 
Mountains lie in the distance, and a long range of hills borders 
the coast. The harbour is well fortified and studded with 
picturesque islands. 

When we went ashore we landed at the Palace Square, where 
is the residence of the Emperor of the Brazils. There was a 
regiment of soldiers parading in it before embarkation for 
Paraguay, and such a motley set I never saw before. The 
officers wore brilliant uniforms, and cocked hats bedizened with 
gold lace and flaunting plumes. 

Brazil was then at war with Paraguay, with the view of a 
complete destruction of the sovereignty, independency, and 
integrity of that country. For this purpose it had formed a 
secret alliance with the governments of Buenos Ayres and 

C 



i6 THE BRAZILIANS. [Ch. 1. 

Uruguay. This alliance becoming known, excited great 
indignation throughout the remaining republics of South 
America. 

Soldiers were everywhere recruiting in the streets, as large 
bounties were offered to such as would fill up the decimated 
ranks. 

The Brazilians consider themselves superior to the Portu- 
guese ; but in my opinion they have sadly degenerated from the 
parent stock, as the contrast between the Cascadores of 
Portugal and the flower of the Brazilian army is very great. 
Then again, the manners and customs are entirely different, 
and the language greatly corrupted, as I did not hear pure 
Portuguese spoken in any part of the Brazils. 

The city of Eio was cleaq, and the sanitary laws are 
excellent, and seem rigidly executed. Just beyond the Palace 
Square there is an American restaurant, where all the fancy 
drinks, from an ' Eye-opener ' to a Champagne ' corpse-reviver,' 
can be procured from sunrise to sunrise. 

The principal business street of the city is the Eua d'Ouvidor. 
There you can purchase the choicest and richest merchandise 
of the world. The native costume is now rarely seen in Rio, as 
both ladies and gentlemen have gone into the extreme of 
French fashion ; and Parisian milliners, tailors, barbers, &c., 
occupy the principal shops of the Eua d'Ouvidor. The 
diamond merchants, too, have their stores here ; and, judging 
from the fondness of all classes for jewellery, I should think 
there was a flourishing trade. 

There are two theatres, and in one of them I saw the Barhe 
Bleu performed very creditably by a French troupe. 

Several daily papers are published, but education does not 
seem to progress rapidly under the present government. 

The Misericordia Hospital is one of the finest and best con- 
ducted in the world. It is under the management of a com- 
pany, and the nurses are the Soeurs de Gharite, 

It contains 1,500 clean and comfortable-looking beds, while 
the floors of boxwood, brightly polished, give a cool aspect that 
must be refreshing to a sick man in a tropical climate. 

There are many hotels, some of them well kept up, and with 
good tables, at reasonable prices. Taken altogether, Eio is as 
cheap a place as one could wish. The people are polite and 



Ch. I.] RIO: HOSPITAL AND PARK. 17 

hospitable to foreigners, and at the time we visited it the city 
was very healthy. 

Most of the merchants doing business in the city have their 
dwellings in the suburbs. Eio boasts of two public gardens, 
one called the ' Botanical or Emperor's Grarden,' about eight 
miles from it, and the other the ' Passeio Publico,' within the 
city. The latter is enclosed by a handsome iron railing on the 
W. and N. ; on the S. by a high wall ; and the east is built up 
to form an esplanade, looking over the sea. As you enter the 
gardens through a large gateway facing the street, the stranger's 
eye is struck with the fine bronze statues, on pedestals of the 
same material, on each side of the entrance. Passing down the 
main avenue, shaded by gigantic palms, to our surprise we came 
upon a number of American larch, spruce, and arbor-vitse, 
all thriving well. 

There is a winding stream through the grounds, with pretty 
little islands formed in it, and on its waters floated numbers of 
aquatic plants brought from the mighty Amazon. 

Black and white swans, native wild ducks, gulls, boobies, 
cranes, the white egret, and the scarlet ibis, all are to be seen 
about the grass near the water, or under the trees planted there 
to give them shade from the fierce heat of the tropical sun. In 
the stream there were two manittas, or sea-cows. These huge 
monsters were quite tame, and either lay basking in the sun, or 
in the shallow parts of the water, just showing their noses above 
the surface. It is very rare to see them in confinement ; but 
these appeared quite happy, and were on the best terms with 
their feathered comrades, and followed the black swans about 
everywhere. 

As we crossed the stream over a little bridge, we saw a flight 
of steps opposite to us leading to the esplanade, and at the 
foot of them were two cast-iron alligators, partially hidden by 
artificial rock-work, covered with ferns and creeping plants. 
From the mouths of these monsters flow streams of clear water, 
which fall into a large basin, wherein I found some interesting 
plants ; amongst others, some Tetraspora, Ulvacece, two species 
of Confervce, &c. &c. At the top of the steps is a statue of 
Cupid, with a flask in his hand, out of which he incessantly pours 
deliciously cool water, that we found most grateful, as the day 
was hot, and we were tired with our long ramble. The view 



i8 JACK-FRUIT, [Ch. I. 

from the esplanade looking over the bay, is very fine. You see 
in the foreground the two forts that defend the harbour ; the 
pretty little church to ' JSfossa Senhora dos Navigates,' on the 
island mountain, and the buildings occupied by the pupils of 
the Naval Academy ; and in the distance the village of St. 
Domingo, and the beautiful mountains of Jurajuba. A good 
refreshment-room is in this garden, provided with seats and 
tjables under the shade of some beautiful trees, and where we 
tasted the native ale, which we found excellent. On leaving I 
saw the celebrated Vanilla-bean plant twining round the trunks 
of large trees, to which it clings like ivy, by very strong tendrils 
that shoot from the joints, and almost bury themselves like 
roots in the bark of the supporting tree. The Passeio Publico 
is quite a fashionable promenade in the warm summer evenings. 

We visited St. Domingo, taking the ferry-boat, and landing at 
the floating-bridge, which is similar in construction to that at 
Fulton Ferry, in Brooklyn, New York. 

In the principal square sat numbers of coloured women, with 
all the fruits of the season spread out on the ground before them 
for sale. ^I observed for the first time the singular Jack-fruit, 
Artocarpus integrifolia. We purchased one, but did not find it 
at all to our taste, though highly esteemed by the Brazilians. 
The large seeds are the best part of it. I have since often eaten 
them cooked, and liked them. The fruit, when cut, we could 
not be tempted to eat, though assured it was very nice. Being- 
blessed with an acute scent, we could not get over its disgusting 
smell of putrid meat ; and, strange to say, the meat-fly hovers 
round it, just as if it were a piece of carrion. 

The tree is very handsome, and at a little distance resembles 
the magnolia ; but the leaf is darker, and its foliage is so dense 
as to be impervious to the sun. The monster fruit grows on a 
very short stem, and hangs from the trunk of the tree. I have 
seen it more than two feet long, and twelve to sixteen inches in 
diameter. 

After examining all the diff*erent fruits, we strolled through 
the streets, and were greatly delighted at the taste displayed in 
the residences and the fine gardens attached to them. We saw 
oranges and tanjarines growing everywhere, and for the first 
time the mammse apple (Papaya edulis). The tree grows 
from ten to fifteen feet high, and looks not unlike the foliage 



Ch. I.] JURAJUBA. 19 

of the castor-oil nut-tree, except that the leaves are of a thinner 
texture, and grow in a large graceful tuft at the top of the 
trunk, and the fruit hangs just under the crown. Many of these 
exceed a pound in weight, and when ripe are of a bright yellow, 
filled with brownish seeds in a pulpy bed. The taste is not un- 
pleasant when eaten, but leaves a peppery flavour. 

The Prayos seems to be a favourite walk of the Brazilian 
ladies, here still dressed in the graceful Spanish costume, with 
veils on their heads. In every case they were accompanied by 
slaves, either black or yellow, it not being etiquette for a lady 
to appear unattended by one or more. The country people were 
very polite, and willingly answered questions, and gave me any 
information I required. 

From the Prayos I went to Jurajuba, a small place near 
Santa Cruz, inhabited chiefly by fishermen, who supply the 
markets at Eio. There is little variety of fish in the harbour. 
The principal are graupers, black and blue fish, and rays ; one of 
the latter I saw caught, was at least twenty feet across his fins. 
There are large quantities of a small fish they call a sardine, 
very like the mossbunkers, and most unlike the sardine of the 
Mediterranean. They are certainly the best flavoured fish 
brought to market. The prawns of Eio are in abundance, and 
are probably the finest in the world. There are great numbers 
of edible crabs, which are nearly all sold by Chinese, who hawk 
them about in large baskets slung on their shoulders. 

After passing through Jurajuba, I shaped my course up the 
mountain, towards a small opening in the woods. Bright 
coloured butterflies fluttered across my path, and now and then 
a gorgeous-plumaged bird would start up before me, and, utter- 
ing a soft plaintive note, disappear in the dense foliage. 

The place was covered with noble palms, mangoes, and 
flowering shrubs. I walked for some distance in a southerly 
direction, but at length found it impossible to penetrate deeper 
through the dense underbrush. The vines and creepers were so 
thickly intertwined, I was obliged to retrace my steps. I col- 
lected a good many rare botanical specimens, and got a few 
snakes and lizards, which abound here, the former are most of 
them poisonous. 

As night was approaching, I hastened on in hopes of reaching 
St. Domingo ; but, after walking two or three miles, I found I 



20 LOST IN THE JUNGLE. [Ch. II 

had lost my way. The sun was fast sinking in the west ; and 
the unpleasant idea of having to spend a night alone in a 
Brazilian forest was beginning to force itself on me. 

As I had a Colt's revolver and a large knife in my girdle, I 
began seriously to contemplate taking up my quarters in a tree, 
should I not succeed in finding an opening. I walked on for 
about half an hour unsuccessfully, and as it was then quite 
dark, had just decided on going to roost, when I heard the voice 
of a muleteer singing to his mules in the distance. I lost no 
time in shouting at the top of my voice, and to my great joy 
was answered, and he soon came to my rescue. He told me I was 
ten or twelve miles from St. Domingo ; that he was a slave 
going to market to sell fruit for his master ; and that if I would 
accompany him, he would guide me. He was astonished to find 
I could speak his language, and still more that I was foolish 
enough to penetrate the jungle solus. The stories he told me 
of the ounce {Felis onca) were enough to frighten anyone, 
but fortunately I knew them to be mostly imaginary. Both 
the ounce and boa constrictor are common in Brazil, but rarely 
seen in this neighbourhood. 

The only dreaded thing I met with was the terrible snake, 
the Jararaca {Bothrops Neuwiedia\ which is a near relation 
to the rattlesnake, and which abounds on the grassy slopes. It 
makes a whistling noise as you approach it, and elevates its 
body like a cobra. Scarcely a clump of bamboos is without 
one of these reptiles, the bite of which is certain death. It is 
generally most prudent to get out of their way ; but the sight 
of a snake always arouses my organ of combativeness, and I 
kill it whenever I can get a chance to do so. 

My companion was very chatty, and told me no end of 
marvels. Amongst others, he said that when he first heard my 
voice he tied his mules high up the mountain, their panniers 
laden with fruit and vegetables, as he was sure no one would 
molest them there. I was curious to know the reason of this 
perfect security ; so he told me it was because ' They were so 
near heaven,' and added, as a corroboration, that a ' man who was 
killed up there by an ounce went straight up to heaven, as 
purgatory was many hundred feet below him ! ' 

We took a narrow footpath on our descent into the valley, 
which was a short cut, luckily well known to the man, for it 
was so dark I was obliged to keep close to the mules. 



Cn. L] PREPARATIONS. 21 

Being anxious to get back, I urged him on, and we got to 
St. Domingo at three o'clock in the morning ; when there I at 
once put off in a boat for the ' Monocacy,' where my friends 
were beginning to think I was lost. 

In spite of my exploring difficulties, I had been so charmed 
with what I had seen, that I determined to pay another visit to 
the Brazilian forests. ' 

I had been constantly asked if I had ascended the Corcovada ; 
and as I wished very much to do so, I tried to get up a party 
from the ship to accompany me, but unsuccessfully ; so made 
up my mind the following Monday to be up early, and off to 
the mountain. 

Before that time, however, the Eev. Mr. Schneider, the 
American missionary there, offered to accompany me, and re- 
quested me to call for him very early. I did so, but the Fates 
were against me ; his wife was so ill that he could not leave 
her. Nothing daunted, I still resolved to go on alone ; par- 
ticularly as he assured me it was perfectly safe to do so, and 
gave me directions for the ascent. 

In an hour's time I was fairly on my way up, my vasculum 
strapped on my back, and a good stout hickory stick to help 
me on. The road was good enough for carriages to drive along 
as far as the great aqueduct, which is supplied from a reservoir 
up the mountain, and carries in a sufficient stream of water for 
the whole of Eio. 

I passed many gentlemen's residences, most of them under 
preparation for the reception of their owners during the 
summer months ; the fine gardens attached to each were 
being put in order. Along the aqueduct were a great variety 
of herbaceous plants, ferns, and mosses. The tree-fern 
(Trichopteris excelsa) is found at this level, and everyone of 
the gigantic forest trees was covered from root to branch with 
orchidese, cacti, and twining plants. The road crossed deep 
ravines over bridges. In their dark recesses the sun never 
shines, and the fronds of the ferns were some of them fifteen 
feet long by three or four broad. The luxuriance of these 
cryptogams tempted me out of my path ; and I was climbing 
over a wall near a bridge in order to descend, when I heard a 
voice shouting to me not to venture, as it was full of snakes 
and other slimy monsters. I found my informant was a 



22 ASCENT OF THE CORCOVADA. [Ch. I. 

coloured man, lying under the shade of some banana trees. He 
was going up the mountain with a basket of provisions for the 
labourers working on the road. He told me no one ever dared 
descend into these ravines on account of the venomous snakes. 
He said it was common to meet the boa constrictor, but it was 
only the jararaca he feared. 

Whilst speaking, one glided along the road, and made the 
peculiar whistling noise that warns of its approach. My com- 
panion at once crossed himself and began reciting his prayers, 
while I killed the reptile and popped him into my bottle. 

The road is good as far as the reservoir, which is a fine piece 
of work of dressed granite, built on the side of the mountain. 
The main aqueduct is covered in with masonry till it reaches 
the city, a distance of some miles. After refreshing myself, I 
took leave of the old man, striking into a narrow winding path, 
which in some places is only cut out of the side of the mountain, 
and is there very steep and dangerous. 

By eleven o'clock I arrived at the upper water-works, about 
1,800 feet above sea-level. So circuitous had been my route, 
I found I had travelled about fourteen miles by my pedometer. 

At this height ther«e are a few small huts built, one of them 
occupied by a Portuguese naturalist, who had charge of the 
works. 

He furnished me with refreshments ; and while I was resting 
myself, a group of seven or eight darkies made their appear- 
ance, who had been engaged all the morning in removing a 
large stone which had fallen in and impeded the water-course. 
They were all slaves, but the most jovial set I had ever met 
with. Never did the fetters of slavery sit lighter on any of the 
descendants of Ham. After eating some lumps of brown bread 
and salt fish, and washing it down with Canna aguardienta, 
they began singing and dancing, strange to say to the tune of 
' Ole Dan Tucker.' An old grey-headed fellow kept time, by 
tapping on the end of a barrel with two sticks. They had the 
double- shuffle, all-hands-round, plantation dance, and many 
others. Finally, one of them sung a plaintive air about Massa 
Linkum, and they all appeared well acquainted with the tragic 
fate of him whom they called the ' father of the black man,' 
and I saw bis portrait everywhere. 

I was much amused with these coloured ' children of a 



Ch. I.] THE TOP OF THE PEAK, 23 

larger growth,' and passed on, earning their good wishes by 
giving a few patacaos to each, and entreaties to the Virgin to 
protect me; but they all advised me to keep out of the 
jungle. Up I went, and the higher I got the more bewilder- 
ingly lovely became the scene. I caught a view of the ocean 
from the SW. side, but soon lost it in the difficulties of the 
ascent. I reached the summit by one o'clock, and was richly 
repaid for the toilsome journey. The government had erected 
a sort of look-out and telegraphic establishment, with seats for 
visitors to rest themselves, but it had been abandoned for some 
years. 

The peak rises to about 2,600 feet, and on its eastern face 
nearly two-thirds of it is a perpendicular precipice. Just as I 
arrived at the top, the men-of-war in the harbour were firing a 
salute, and the effect was very singular as the sound struck the 
bold cliffs of the mountain. The panoramic view obtained at 
this point is magnificent. 

Looking down on the bay, studded with its tree-covered 
islands, the outlines of the distant mountain ranges, the 
ocean dotted here and there with merchant-ships making for 
the port ; the lofty peaks of Tijuco and Gravea, with their 
precipitous sides clothed with mighty forests ; the plantations 
of coffee, oranges, and mandiocca in the valleys ; altogether 
made a scene never to be effaced from my memory. 

The trees at the foot of the mountain are very large, 
but the vegetable growth sensibly lessens towards the summit. 

I know not how long I should have gazed on the view before 
me, had I not been unpleasantly roused from my reverie by 
finding I had seated myself in such close proximity to a small 
grey snake, coiled up, that I could have touched it with my 
hand. I killed it with a single blow of my stick, and believe 
the snake was a very poisonous one. 

I began to descend, collecting ferns, insects, and reptiles, till 
my vasculum and bottles were all full. 

When I had reached the shoulder, there was a very inviting 
opening into which, of course, I went. 

I had not penetrated far, when my attention was arrested by 
some large bright coloured butterflies on the tpomoeas. Whilst 
waiting for them to settle, I was arranging my scaup-net on my 
stick, when I heard a singular noise near me. On looking 



24 SCARED BY A SNAKE. [Ch. I. 

down I discovered I was only about fifteen feet from a large 
snake half coiled under an aloe, with crest erected and mouth 
open. 

I confess I felt frightened, and did not at all approve of 
coming to South America to be ignominiously swallowed by a 
snake. Determined however to sell my life as dearly as 
possible, I raised my old hickory stick, meaning to try it on his 
vertebrae if he approached, at the same time steadily beating a 
retreat. 

When at some distance, finding he did not move, I lifted a 
large stone and hurled it at him, at the same time giving a 
tremendous yell. I missed him, but the brute uncoiled and 
slunk away into the thicket, and as soon as he disappeared I 
took to my heels, and made off as fast as I could, tearing my 
clothes and scratching my face, in my hirrry to get away from 
the monster's quarters. ^ 

In the meantime my friend at the reservoir, alarmed at my 
long absence up the mountain, came to look for me. I heard 
him holloaing long before I got out of the wood, but I soon 
reached the main road, and it was not long before I was seated 
on the grass enjoying some capital rice and curry with him. 
Towards four o'clock I left, my friend escorting me some dis- 
tance, lest I should again lose my way. 

He told me that a few weeks before a party of ladies and 
gentlemen made the ascent to the shoulder on horseback for a 
pic-nic. When returning, a young lady and her companion 
had preceded the party, and in a narrow place her horse grew 
restive and refused to stir ; the whip was applied, when he 
threw her off over the precipice, the sides of which were studded 
with trees. Luckily her dress caught in some branches, and 
held her suspended over the awful abyss below. She was soon 
rescued, and the cause of the horse's swerving was discovered 
in a large boa constrictor lying across the road, its head and 
tail invisible. They attacked it, but at the first blow it disap- 
peared in the ravine. 

After accompanying me for a mile or two, my friend Pedro 
Gronsalves left me. He was a good specimen of the kind- 
hearted and hospitable people of the country to which he 
belongs. 

I had not gone far when the rumble of distant thunder 



Ch. I.] A SAFER RETREAT, ' 25 

warned me not to loiter. The whole sky became overcast, and 
heavy rain-drops came pattering down. Seeing a light at some 
distance below, I made all haste to reach it, but did not succeed 
before the rain fell in torrents, the thunder echoed from cliff 
to cliff, and the vivid flashes of lightning almost blinded me. 

I entered a small shanty on the roadside, but could see no 
one. I announced my arrival in the usual way by clapping 
my hands ; and then as I advanced I saw behind a large wooden 
chest an old couple with their child kneeling, offering up 
prayers to their patron saint, to protect them from the storm 
fiends. I did not disturb them, but remained near the door- 
way till the rain had passed. They then came forward, and 
asked me how I came to be in such a lonely place, as they 
could not understand how anyone could go there who was not 
obliged. 

The man was guardian to part of the aqueduct. He told me 
he was a native of Viana, in Portugal, and showed the greatest 
delight when he found I knew the place well. While con- 
versing with him, his old wife busied herself with preparations 
for supper, and invited me to partake of it. It consisted of 
brouer or coarse bread, made of unbolted rye and Indian meal, 
and fried bachalau or salt fish. I was very hungry, so ate 
heartily, and washed it down with a good draught of water, 
for wine they had none. 

I left two cruzados novas with the old couple, and earned a 
shower of blessings, and entreaties to San Antonio to protect 
me in my descent. It soon grew quite dark ; and it was with 
difficulty I reached Eio by midnight, wet and tired. I did 
not go on board, but stayed at the hotel, and next day paid 
a visit to the Botanical or Emperor's Gardens, about eight 
miles from the city. 

It is a pleasant drive, past all the pretty gardens and cottages, 
to the comfortable inn close to the place. The most prominent 
feature there is some rows of the Oreodoxa Eegia palm, most 
of them nearly forty feet in height. They were planted by 
Dom John VI., who founded the gardens. There is a fine 
avenue of Casuarinas, rows of cinnamon and clove-trees, and 
the tea-plant. 

These have been introduced with the view of cultivating 
them as articles of commerce ; and I think, if properly managed, 



26 • CAMPO DI SANTA ANNA, [Ch. I. 

they will be successful, as the climate seems to suit them. At 
San Paalo is a tea-plantation, which already sends tea of good 
quality to the Eio market. A little stream flows through the 
grounds, bordered with clumps of the graceful feathery bamboo, 
that gives such elegance to tropical scenery. The Jack and 
bread-fruit trees grow very large. I was astonished to find a 
total absence of the thousands of beautiful indigenous plants, 
which could be easily collected in the immediate vicinity. 
Even the rare and lovely orchidese of the country would make 
charming groups, and be of the greatest interest to the 
foreigner. 

I was greatly disappointed with the gardens, and thought 
how different they would have been in either Europe or 
America, with such a wealth of material close to hand, enough 
to make them of world-wide fame. 

In a fine square, the Campo di Santa Anna, is the national 
museum ; but it was scarcely worth a visit, all the specimens 
jumbled together without any arrangement or order. This 
square also contains a theatre and a number of Grovernment 
buildings. 

In the Campo di Dom Pedro is a fine statue of this emperor 
in bronze, and the square is ornamented with beautiful trees 
and flowering shrubs. The country produces sugar, cotton, 
delicious fruits, and coffee ; the latter is the principal export. 

Eio contains about 175,000 inhabitants, the greater portion 
of which are coloured. It can boast of one of the finest docks 
in the world ; hewn out of the solid rock, and cost many 
millions of dollars. It is the work of an English engineer. 
There is an iron foundry, which I visited, and its works will vie 
with those of European nations. This is also under the 
management of Europeans and Americans. 

On November 19 we were ready for sea; our engines had been 
overhauled and put in perfect order, and we steamed up the har- 
bour and anchored ofi" Coal Island. At noon three Spanish frigates 
fired a salute in commemoration of the Queen of Spain's corona- 
tion. Their masts were lined with the flags of all nations, and 
they fired fast and regularly a hundred guns. On the 22nd 
the ' Monocacy ' turned her head towards the sea, and we slowly 
steamed away. 

When close to the stern of the English flag-ship, the admiral 



Ch. I.] 



DEPARTURE. 



27 



gave us a good-bye salute. Just as we left a clipper ship was 
putting into the port in distress, having lost her top-masts and 
bulwarks. 

As we passed St. Cruz a swell set in from the west. The 
ship rolled heavily, as we were deep in the water, having 300 
tons of coal on board, including 40 tons on deck. 




&UGAR-LOAF HILL. 



CHAPTER II. 

EASTWAED BOUND. 

Bad Weather — Catching an Albatross — Accident to Captain — Brilliance of 
Southern Constellations— Serious Consequences of killing an Albatross — "Whale 
Brit — Tristan d'Acunha — Its History — Chemical Barometer, and how to make 
it — Arrival in Simon s Baj — Description of Country — Cape Sheep — Hottentot 
Venus — The Pilot — Baboons — A Night in the Mountains — Ascent of Table 
Mountain — Principal Features of Cape Town — Harbour Sights — A Cape "Waggon 
— Churches — Masonry — The Government — A Dutch Boer — Eoad from Cape 
Tosvn to Simon's Bay — Adieu to the Cape — A Hurricane — Hints on Cyclones — 
Mauritius at Last. 

Again on the wide ocean, onward bound ; but we soon found it 
was not to be smooth sailing, for we had been but one day at 
sea when the weather changed. 

On the night of the 23rd it was so rough, everything was 
rolling and pitching about, and keeping up such a clattering 
that sleep was impossible. The guns frequently dipped in the 
water, and the waves broke over the hurricane deck. 

Many of both officers and men were sea-sick, myself amongst 
the number. I lay tossing from side to side, and wondering 
how people could like the sea. I thought of the song ' Some 
love to roam o'er the dark sea's foam,' but decidedly give me 
the ' Life in the woods.' My only consolation was that the 
waves which surged over our vessel, and the wind that whistled 
round us, carried us rapidly on our way ; this pleased our captain, 
too, for he was very anxious to get far to the SE., beyond the 
river La Plate, to avoid the Pampero which prevails at this 
season. This wind is so called from its blowing off the Pampas, 
and is dreaded by navigators cruising in these latitudes. 

Towards noon of the 24th, though little squalls of rain con- 
tinued, the barometer indicated a change for the better ; and I 
amused myself fishing with line and hook, baited with pork, for 
a large albatross which hovered round the ship. The hook had a 



Ch. II.] DIVINE SERVICE AT SEA. 29 

bit of wood for a float, and the bird would gracefully sail round 
it, and then plunge at the bait ; but as I was quite a novice at 
this kind of bird-catching, I failed in my efforts. He did not, 
however, quit us, but, in company with some petrels, kept round 
about the ship till dark. 

The 25th rose bright and clear, and all was bustle and 
activity on deck, as the crew were being exercised at the guns. 
After this the men had their day to themselves. It was curious 
to watch them all, seated over the deck with their biddy-boxes 
of needles, thread, buttons, &c. Some were making shirts, 




TABLE MOUNTAIN. 



pants, or cap-covers ; others cutting out new, or mending old 
clothes, and very deftly too ; for a man-of-war's man can turn 
his hand to everything. During the day there was a sale of 
the effects of two or three sailors who had deserted at Eio. 
Beds, bedding, wearing apparel, every article, was put up 
separately, and knocked down to the highest bidder ; and a 
good deal of fun was made as any rather out-of-the-way thing, 
or ragged garment, was held up. 

Divine service was held by Captain Carter regularly every 
sabbath. All came aft in their best clothes, and seated them- 
selves quietly and reverently. The American flag was spread 
over a table, and when prayers were read, officers and men 
joined in a hymn. It is, I think, a peculiarly impressive service, 
out on the -deep blue ocean. There were 175 souls shut 
away from all the world, assembling, and uniting their voices 



so AN ALBATROSS. [Ch. II. 

in praise of their Creator. In the evening I sat in the ward- 
room with the officers, and we sang all the good old psalm 
tunes. They brought back younger days when, at the old fire- 
side at home, all the dear ones, now dead or scattered, joined 
in the holy songs. 

No little excitement was one day aroused by an accident that 
nearly proved fatal to our captain. He was standing near the 
rail, watching the men cleaning a boat ; and as they were 
hauling it into its place, one of the davits struck him and sent 
him overboard. Fortunately, he caught at a block and rope, 
and with difficulty saved himself. It was a narrow escape, as 
we were steaming along six knots, and had he gone down to the 
water there would have been little chance of saving him. 
Officers and men looked pale when they heard of it, for the 
captain was much liked, and they congratulated him heartily. 
His loss would have been a great grief to us all, and an irre- 
parable one to our ship. Albatrosses and petrels were always 
round us. The men tried hard to get me one of the former, but 
for a long while unsuccessfully. One of our sailors named Benaro, 
at last caught one, and after great resistance he drew him on 
board ; but not before it had taxed his utmost skill and strength. 

In about half an hour another was hooked, and we let them 
go about on the deck together. They were fine birds, but looked 
very droll waddling along. I had been instructed to procure a 
fine specimen of this bird for one of our large public institutions. 
I was anxious to kill one without injuring his plumage, and so 
gave him a dose of cyanide of potassium about as large as a pea ; 
in less than a minute he lay over on his side, dead without a 
struggle. We concluded to give the other his liberty ; but 
first fastened a strip of copper round his neck, on which was 
engraved the name of our ship, and our lat. and long., and then 
sent him over the side. He was so astonished at finding himself 
once more in the water that he did not attempt to fly off, but 
kept swimming after us. 

In these latitudes the zodiacal stars, such as Orion and 
Arcturus, give the mariner the E. and W. bearings, and the 
Southern Cross the N. and S. when Polaris and the Grreat Bear 
can no longer be seen. I had heard so much of the Southern 
Cross, I was anxious to see it ; but confess if it had not 
been pointed out to me, I should not have discovered it. 



Ch. II.] THE STARS. 31 

Perhaps it may be more brilliant when we are more to the 
south. But the other constellations are magnificent, and it was 
one of my greatest pleasures on board to sit gazing up at the 
wonderful beauty overhead. How many queries are suggested 
to a reflecting mind when we take an attentive view of the 
celestial vault that overtops our world, with the planets and 
stars one after the other emerging from the blue ethereal, and 
gradually illuminating the firmament, till it is spangled over 
with its shining orbs, moving in silent grandeur at such immense 
distances as to be past the range of human comprehension I 
Who, while contemplating them, can doubt the existence of the 
Supreme Being who has created them, and guides these 
millions of worlds in their courses ? 

Then came the unanswerable questions, What purpose do* 
they serve in the vast plan of the universe ? How do their 
laws, physical and moral, differ from ours ? Are they inhabited 
by sentient beings, like ourselves, actuated by the same hopes 
and fears, the same passions, and subject to dissolution even as 
we are ? Here my meditations were cut short by a call to go 
aft, and look at the myriads of medusse and squids swimming- 
round the ship. Being disturbed by the motion of the vessel, 
they threw off a phosphoric light, so brilliant that their forms 
could be discerned. The sides of the vessel were illuminated 
till every bolt and bar was visible. 

It was most interesting to watch them, and we could see that 
they continued to give out this electric light till they were far 
astern. 

About eleven o'clock a large meteor crossed the heavens, at 
about 75 degrees, and took a western flight, till it sank below 
the horizon. It appeared about the size of a man's head, and 
left a train of brilliant light behind it like a sky-rocket. I 
seemed to hear a rushing noise as it passed through the atmo- 
sphere. The light remained for half a minute before it faded 
away. Many smaller meteors appeared the same evening, taking 
the same course, shooting with the greatest velocity. 

On the 28th we had a squall that carried away our topmasts, 
which increased to a gale by night. Instead of the calm placid 
appearance of the preceding evening, we had the sea running 
mountains high, and the wind howling through the rigging. 

However, I turned in, and contrived to sleep soundly in spite 

D 



32 SUPERSTITIONS AT SEA. [Ch. II. 

of wind and weather. Up to December 3 we had continual squalls, 
when I found, to my utter astonishment, that to Trie was attri- 
buted a good deal of the contrariety of the elements ! The sailors 
averred that it was all owing to my having killed the albatross. 
When the storm was at its height on the Sunday, they entreated 
me not to kill any more of these birds, as they are considered to 
be the spirits of seamen lost in the ocean ; and who, dying un- 
assoiled, have to wander over the face of the deep for an infinity 
of years ; and they hover round ships in the hope of seeing 
some of their old comrades. 

I could not help laughing at the superstition, which was 
partially shared even by some of the officers ; but finding them 
so earnest in their belief, I promised that no other bird should 
DO molested by me while on board. I was sorry for the sake of 
science ; for I saw some of the yellow-nosed albatrosses and 
large petrels afterwards, which I should like to have got for the 
Long Island Historical Society, New York, but was obliged to 
allow the lost spirits to sail on in security, protected by the 
brave sons of Neptune. 

Luckily for me they did not serve me like Coleridge's 
' Ancient Mariner,' and hang the dead bird round my neck,. 

For I had done a hellish thing, 

And it would work me woe ; 
For all averred I had killed the bird, 

That made the fair breeze blow. 
' Ah wretch,' said they, ' the bird to slay, 

That made the breeze to blow.' 

For several evenings I saw the most brilliant meteors ; and 
the long continuation of them seemed so remarkable, I suggested 
they should be noticed in the log. But no — the officer on deck 
could not be made to see ' the use ' of recording ' falling 
stars,' as he called them. It is a pity our Naval Academy does 
not do more towards cultivating the minds as well as develop- 
ing the physical powers of the men. As it is, as good or better 
men might be taken out of our mercantile marine to man our 
ships of war. 

On the 4th I observed large red patches of what appeared 
like weeds on the sea, and got one of the sailors to take up a 
bucket of water containing some of the substance. I found it 
was alive with crustaceous animals which whalemen call Brit, 



Ch. II.] 



TRISTAN UACUNHA. 



33 



on which the right whale feeds. The presence of this food 
accounts for our having seen so many whales. We were then 
in Lat. 36. 20, Long. 16. 15. 

On the 5th, was heard the cheering cry of Land ho ! from the 
mast-head, and on the windward beam we soon saw the moun- 
tain of Tristan d'Acunha appearing above the white clouds that 
hung on the horizon. Though w^e had a fair view of the 
islands, we could not approach them, as the weather was uncer- 
tain, and it is considered a dangerous coast ; so we gave them 
a good wide berth to leeward, and proceeded on our course. I 




TRISTAN D'ACUNHA. 



collected, however, some information about them, which I will 
relate. There are three islands in the group, but one only is 
inhabited. They were discovered by the Portuguese. The 
mountain in the central island is said to be 8,356 feet high, ac- 
cessible to its summit, although it is snow-capped a greater 
part of the year. Trees grow half way up, but the rest is a 
rugged peak. Captain Patten of the ship ' Industry ' was there, 
sealing, from August 1790 to April 1791. An open bay lies on 
the west, with a line beach of black sand, where the ship's boats 
were hauled up. There are two falls of excellent water, afford- 



34 GOVERNOR GLASS, [Ch. II. 

ing a supply sufficient for a large fleet ; and from one of 
these cascades the water casks could be filled by means of a 
hose, without removing them from the boats. 

There is a good deal of timber, though not high. The prin- 
cipal trees resemble the yew in foliage, with a wood like the 
maple,^ and burns well. Wild celery, dock, sorrel, and parsley 
are found. Grannets, penguins, albatrosses. Cape cocks and 
hens, and a bird something like a partridge, only it is black, 
and cannot fly, are abundant. Such numbers of sea lions are on 
this coast, that Captain Patten said he could have loaded a ship 
with the oil in three weeks. 

Between the shore and the foot of the mountain is a fine 
rich soil, of a red colour and good depth, well adapted for the 
growth of vegetables. 

In 1811 one Jonathan Lambert, an American, by a singular 
edict, declared himself sovereign proprietor of the island. He 
sowed the ground with various seeds, and planted coffee and 
canes, both of which did well. He, however, soon abandoned 
it ; and, at a later period, the British Grovernment took formal 
possession of it, by a detachment from the Cape of Grood Hope. 

An old Serjeant of artillery called Glass, was made Grovernor, 
and a little colony was formed of twenty-two men and three 
women. 

In 1823 a British vessel putting in there was astonished to 
find Englishmen, and an abundant supply of vegetables, pigs, 
goats, fruit, and water. 

Griass told the sailors if there were only a few more of the 
fair sex, it would be a Paradise. 

In 1829 Captain Ben Morrell, of the U.S.Ship ' Antartic,' said 
he found seven families living there very comfortably under the 
administration of Griass ; and keeping bullocks, sheep, goats, 
poultry, eggs, butter and milk, all which they sell to ships on 
very reasonable terms. 

The inhabitants have increased to eighty-five, and the island 
is considered the healthiest known ; no epidemic has reached it, 
and children have none of the diseases elsewhere common to 
them. 

This island lies 1,320 miles S. of St. Helena, in Lat. 37. 2. 
48, Long. 12. 18. 29. 

' Possibly the Yellow-wool of the Cape, though that tree grows large and high 
in the forest 



Ch. II.] A HOME-MADE BAROMETER. 35 

After passing Tristan d'Acunha, we began to see the pretty 
black and white Cape pigeons, that swim round the ship like a 
flock of ducks, and greedily pick up any scraps the sailors throw 
overboard. 

Every night, from November 27 to December 6, meteors were 
seen, some very large, leaving their long tracks of light behind. 
I especially mention this to those who are studying meteor- 
ology, for I believe it is very uncommon for so many to be seen 
of such dimensions in so short a space of time. 

When about 600 miles from the Cape, we again saw the 
whale brit and large quantities of sea-weed. 

I made a barometer on board, which showed any disturbance 
in the atmosphere with such unerring certainty, and indicated 
it as soon as either the aneroid or quicksilver barometer, that I 
here give the way to make one of these chemical weather-glasses. 

Take a glass tube, perfectly clean, about twelve inches in 
length and one and a half in diameter, and stop one end with 
a fine clean cork. Dissolve 2 J drachms of camphor in 11 
liquid drachms of alcohol, and set it aside. Put 38 grains of 
nitrate of potash and 38 grains of mm'iate of ammonia into 9 
drachms of water, and, when perfectly dissolved, mix the two 
solutions together. Shake them well till thoroughly incor- 
porated with each other, and fill the tube with the mixture. 
Cork it up carefully, sealing both ends with wax, and then 
make a small hole in one end with a red hot needle. When 
the weather is clear and fine, the liquid in the tube is transpa- 
rent and bright ; but on the least change, the chemicals, which 
form a sediment in the bottom of the tube, become disturbed 
and rise in beautiful crystals. By watcbing it carefully a few 
days, when changes take place, one soon learns to graduate 
W 

On the 15th, land was descried ahead, and soon after we could 
make out the celebrated Table Mountain, Devil's Eock, and the 
Lion's Head and Rump at the Cape of Grood Hope. We ran 
down the coast with the current, so as to make Simon's Bay 
before dark. The shore is high and bold, and the waves dash 
madly against the rocks, throwing up the foam, so that it can 
be seen at a great distance. 

' This kind of barometer is well known in London, and sold in scientific instru- 
ment and even toy shops. 



36 CAPE SHEEP. [Ch. II. 

Simon's Bay is about twelve miles by sea from Cape Point, near 
the NE. corner of False Bay. It lies at the foot of Simon's Berg, 
one of a high ridge of mountains. Vessels that find it danger- 
ous to anchor in Table Bay put into Simon's Bav, which is 
considered perfectly safe at all seasons of the year. Ships 
visiting this bay can always obtain refreshments from the well- 
furnished stores of the town, and excellent water from the 
tanks. There is also a patent slip, capable of taking up vessels 
of 1,800 or 2,000 tons. 

A large square rock, called Noah's Ark, lies at the entrance 
of the bay ; opposite is a lighthouse, and just beyond a fortifica- 
tion, called the Block-house. This is mounted with a few guns 
' en barbette,' and in the centre is a small circular loop-holed 
tower. Simon's Bay is noted for fish. Our men caught abun- 
dance of silver-fish, mackarel. Cape salmon, and snook. The 
latter is peculiar to the Cape coasts, and large quantities are 
salted and packed for the Mauritius market ; the vessels bring- 
ing back supplies of sugar. The houses are well built ; and 
from the Admiralty House, the residence of the Commodore 
commanding the Cape of Good Hope Station, a fine view is ob- 
tained of the shipping and harbour. 

Bent on seeing all there was to be seen, I left the ship, with 
my vasculum and a long strong stick, such as the Boers use 
when on a journey. I landed at the pier, and set off on foot 
along a fine road by the shore, towards Belvidere. Before 
arriving at the inn there, I met a large drove of Cape sheep led 
by an old ram. They came prancing down the road, their great 
tails swinging and bobbing about in so droll a manner that I 
was puzzled to know what they were, never having seen such 
queer animals. 

Instead of the ordinary caudal appendages, they have a mass 
of fat, sometimes over a foot square, terminated by a pointed 
tip, turned up. The upper side only of the tail has hair. The 
true Cape sheep has coarse long hair, which however becomes 
woolly on crossing the breed. 

They are rarely seen now, the farmers finding it more 
profitable to keep good wooUed sheep. As the breed improves, 
the tail gradually disappea/s. When killed, the tip is cut off 
and the tail split in two, salted, and dried in the wide chimneys, 
and makes a very good substitute for bacon ; or it is melted. 



Ch. II.] SUGAR BIRDS. 37 

and supplies the place of butter in cookery. The tip is care- 
fully rendered down, and strained, when it is clear as crystal, 
and can be applied to any purpose for which neat's-foot oil is 
used. 

I laid in a stock of refreshments at the inn, which is kept by 
an Italian and his English wife. He is an old Crimean soldier, 
pensioned by the British Government, having been through 
the whole war. 

He gave me all the information he could respecting the 
natural history of the place, and accompanied me some distance, 
giving me advice as to taking care of myself, &c. 

I passed on along a pretty road still skirting the bay, 
and came to an open grassy spot, apparently the site of a 
former dwelling. There were long rows of aloes in full 
blossom, looking like a file of soldiers in the distance, with 
their bright scarlet and yellow flowers. Hovering over tliem 
were a number of long-tailed delicate birds. The bill is very 
long and curved, which they insert into the bells of the aloe, each 
one containing a large drop of delicious honey. They are never 
Geen to alight, but circle round the plant uttering a rapid twit- 
tering note. 

They are called sugar birds, and have the most brilliant 
plumage. The body is excessively small, but covered witli 
feathers of the richest scarlet, purple, and green or yellow 
tints, often overlaid with a golden sheen that flashes in the 
sun till they look like winged jewels. ^ 

Aloes are common all over the country, and form an article 
of commerce. The long, large leaves, deeply serrated and 
bearing a sharp spine at the point, are cut on a bright' clear 
day. A hole is dug near the plant and lined with maize leaves, 
in which the cut aloe leaves are placed. They bleed freely, 
and the viscous matter that flows from them very soon 
coagulates, when it is collected for sale. It is said to be equal 
to the finest soco trine aloes. From the network of the leaves 
I have seen very fair paper made, and the heart of the plant is 
as sweet as a nut, if care be taken in cutting off the leaves, 
which are bitter as gall. 

Two huge ribs of a whale were placed at each side of the 
road, forming an archway. Many other large bones were 
scattered about, this having been once a whale fishery, but now 



38 A HOTTENTOT VENUS. [Ch. II. 

abandoned. As I ascended a little elevation I could see a 
number of small houses, but only two or three were occupied. 

As I approached, I saw a Hottentot woman washing clothes. 
If it be rude to stare at the fair sex, I certainly was guilty of 
rudeness to the last degree. I found all the descriptions I had 
ever heard of the Hottentot Venus beaten to fits by the reality. 
Cape sheep are nothing to it ! She was dressed in a skin of 
some animal, made very soft, and tightly drawn round her 
person from the waist to the knee, so that of course a perfect 
outline of her figure was visible. 

Her nude baby was lying under a tree near her, and when 1 
questioned her about the place, she rose to show me the way to 
the principal house. She coolly shook her vestment straight, 
and snatched up the child, placing it on the seat nature had 
provided for it on its mother's haunches. As it was restless, to 
quiet it she lifted up her breast, which the child clutched over 
her shoulder, and thus took his breakfast as we went along. 
I never witnessed such a sight, and wished for my camera to 
take off the picture.^ 

She told me the principal person there was an old Scotch- 
man, called Captain John Miller, who was the pilot of the port. 
This place is called Allen's Point. 

I found the old man busy salting snook in a little outhouse. 
I at once told him who I was, and where from, when he quitted 
his work and entered into a conversation about America. I 
found him intelligent and he led the way to his house, where 
I partook of his hospitality. He showed me all over his place, 
and said that, with the exception of a coloured boy he was 
trying to bring up respectably, and teaching to read and 
write, there was no one else near but the Hottentot woman and 
her husband. 

He had a nice patch of vegetables near the house ; but he 
told me the baboons were so troublesome, they robbed him of 
nearly all his crops. He was determined to put a stop to their 
depredations, and he built a little thatched hut so as to 
overlook the garden, and placed a man there with a loaded 
gun. But they were too clever to be caught so easily. They 
watched the time when the man went to his dinner and down 

• I afterwards succeeded in getting one that will give some idea of the Indtj in 
question. 



Ch. II.] BABOONS. 39 

they would come, doing endless mischief in his absence. These 
animals are very crafty, and when out marauding, one party is 
sent thieving while others are despatched to the different 
points commanding the situation, as scouts. The thieves 
devour all they can and fill their cheek pouches, and carry off 
as much as possible if all goes well. On the slightest appear- 
ance of danger, or the approach of any one, a peculiar cry is 
given as a warning signal, when away they scurry and it 
would be a fleet foot that could follow. They make for the 
nearest bush or kranz, where they grin down in triumphant 
security. 

To go back to my old man, who knew their cunning ways : 
one day when the guardian left for dinner, down they came as 
usual, grown bold by continued successes ; but whilst they 
were devouring the pumpkins the man cautiously crept back, 
and soon succeeded in mortally wounding a large fellow about 
four feet high. The scene that followed was so painful, that 
Capt. Miller declared he would never shoot another if they eat 
up all his vegetables. He describes it as exactly like a human 
being in the death agony. 

The poor thing looked up in his face so pitifully, whilst its 
plaintive cries asked for help as plainly as could a human voice, 
that he felt as if he had committed a murder. 

Near to his house was an eminence, where he kept a sharp 
look-out for vessels entering the bay. At the foot of this hill 
were two solitary graves ; one bore the inscription on the head- 
stone : JRuth Santi, October 25, 1865. The poor woman had 
arrived there in an emigrant vessel bound to Australia, which was 
obliged to put in for help, having so much sickness on board. 
Euth was taken on shore, but too late, and fell a victim to the 
dire disease, dysentery, and was buried in this lonely place. 

The old man warned me against the snakes, which were numer- 
ous, but told me that a long black serpent from six to eight feet 
long was considered harmless, and that they were never killed, 
as they preyed upon other snakes and were capital rat hunters. 

We went through the bush to a high bluff about three miles 
distant, and here we came upon a whole family party of 
baboons at play. The young ones were sliding down a grassy 
slope, rolling over like great fur balls, chattering and gam- 
bolling like so many boys at play ; which in the distance they 



40 A NIGHT SURPRISE. [Ch. II. 

so greatly resembled, that I could have sworn they were 
children. One of the old ones was leaning on a stick watching 
the others. I wished for one of their thick skins to send home, 
but could not find the heart to shoot a baboon. 

The captain accompanied me some distance on my way back ; 
but when he left me, instead of going to Simon's town, I deter- 
mined to pass the night in the mountains, and branched off up 
one of them. I reached an elevation of about 2,000 feet, just 
in time to witness a beautiful sunset. A long bank of heavy 
black clouds in the west was illuminated, as the sun sank below 
the horizon, till it appeared as if lined with silver and radi- 
ating all the spectral colours from its edges, which changed 
every moment. 

The top of the ridge is flat table land, as smooth and grassy 
as a well kept lawn. It was now nearly dark, and, descending 
a little, I found a nice nook under a shelving rock, which I 
beat well with my stick to be sure there were no snake 
tenants ; then took off my big coat and rolled it up for a 
pillow, lighted my pipe, and was fixed for the night. 

I awoke about one o'clock much confused, either dreaming 
or hearing human voices. I sprang up, revolver in hand, and 
sallied forth. About twenty feet from me I saw some very 
suspicious looking people silently crossing the path : I called 
to them but got no answer, so fired, when a loud screeching 
was set up, and away they all scampered into the bush. I then 
found I had appropriated the bedroom of some baboon family, 
out for a spree, and on their return they had discovej'ed me ; 
and I suppose it was their vocal objections to my presence that 
had awakened me. 

It was a glorious moonlight night, so I pushed on for Simon's 
Bay, soliloquising as I went. 

From boyhood upwards I had read every book on i^frican 
travels, from Mungo Park to Livingstone, and had longed to 
tread the wilds of Africa. Well, here was my dream realised, 
and the place had a perfect enchantment for me. I reached 
the Eoyal Hotel about daybreak, and had a sound sleep while 
they prepared me a capital breakfast. 

When I called upon our consul, Mr. Graham, he had gone 
to Cape Town ; but a few days after he came on board, and gave 



Ch. II.] CAPE TOWN. 41 

Captain Carter and myself an invitation to spend Christmas- 
day with him at Wynberg. 

On the 25th we left the ship, and found om* consul waiting 
with a carriage for us. The morning was clear and bracing, 
and we soon reached the sands of the beach, when lo, our noble 
steed protested against proceeding further. With difficulty he 
was coaxed on and we were obliged to Avalk along the heavy 
sand till we got to Ralk Bay, where the road is smooth and 
level and winds round the base of a mountain. Near this, on 
a lovely spot, stands the country house of our vice-consul Mr. 
Martin. We stopped there a short time, and he showed me 
some curious geological formations on the beach near his house. 

After a delightful drive, we arrived at Wynberg and had a 
good day of it, and a regular English Christmas dinner, and 
returned well pleased to the inn. I was so taken with the 
road, which is macadamised with stone containing iron ore in 
excess, and that makes it literally an iron road, that I deter- 
mined to go to Cape Town and up Table Mountain. 

The next day I drove to an hotel in Cape Town, and per- 
suaded my landlady to give me my breakfast over night so as 
to pack it in my vasculum ; starting off long before daylight, I 
was some way up the mountain by sunrise, and had a good 
view of the environs of Cape Town. The ocean was calm, the 
atmosphere clear ; and when about 1,200 feet up I had my 
breakfast, without the fear of the ' table cloth ' being let down 
over my head.^ By 12 o'clock I reached the Plateau, which 
is about two miles in length and about a mile broad. A con- 
stant verdure is maintained by the moisture of the atmosphere. 
I there collected many species of the Amaranthus for which 
the Cape is noted, especially the delicate pink and white ones, 

' This peculiar phenomenon is called the ' Devil's Table Cloth,' and is a thin 
sheet of white vapour, often seen rushing over the edge of the precipice, while the 
entire sky is blue and serene. The rapidity of the descent resembles water pouring 
over the face of a rock. The air begins to be agitated in the valley, and in less 
than half-an-hour Cape Town is filled with dust, and the inhabitants are obliged to 
shut up doors and windows. The lower boundary of the cloud is regulated by 
the wind and temperature in Table Valley. The cloud never descends more than 
half way into the hot amphitheatre of Cape Town ; but on the side of Camp's Bay 
it may be seen rolling down in immense volumes to the sea. 

It has a most singular aspect ; continually rushing to a certain point, and then 
vanishing. Fleecy clouds are seen, torn by the winds, whirling over the town, but 
the main body remains fixed to the mountain. 



42 TABLE BAY. [Ch. II. 

the large silvery white, and yellow tipped with purple. 
Large proteas with their pale pink petals half covered with a 
many-leafed calyx of white downy satin ; ericas of various 
hues ; the silver tree leaves [Leucadendron argenteum) and in 
every cleft elegant ferns. 

There are a good many dangerous places up the mountain ; 
and many persons have lost their lives when night has over- 
taken them, enveloped in the ' table cloth.' 

When descending I heard a deep growl, and, looking across 
a chasm, I saw a head about as large as a dog's, which I took 
to be a jackal's. I aimed steadily at it with my revolver, 
which sent a bullet crashing through the skull, when he sprang 
up and fell into the ravine below out of my reach. 

I saw a number of wild animals I did not know sitting on 
their haunches curiously watching me till I approached, when 
they would bound over the rocks or disappear in the clefts. 
I found afterwards they were the Dassy or Eock rabbit, I 
believe a true coney. They can be easily tamed when young, 
but are very mischievous, quite equal to a monkey in cunning 
and agility. 

All was new and curious to me, and I returned delighted 
with my trip in time for a late dinner at an hotel in Cape 
Town ; and on the following day had hastily to collect all my 
notes on the place, and be back in the evening, as the ' Mono- 
cacy' was ready for sea again. ^ 

Cape Town is built on a gradual slope, bounded on the 
NW. by Table Bay, and almost enclosed on the other sides by 
a cordon of mountains. 

The Lion's Head and Rump can be easily ascended, as their 
sides slope gradually and overlook a great extent of country. 
There is also an ascent termed the Kloof, which offers, from 
its scorched sides covered with the silver tree, some very 
lovely scenery, including the far distant Blue Berg mountains, 
with their snow-clad summits. 

From the anchorage Cape Town has a pleasing aspect, the 
charm of which is in no way dispelled on landing and passing up 
the principal thoroughfare, Adderly Street, and entering a line 

' As my time was very limited, I have copied the following information from the 
Cape Almanac. 



Ch. II.] THE CAPE OBSERVATORY. 43 

avenue of oaks that is a quarter of a mile long, and near which 
are some of the best buildings. 

Among the latter may be enumerated, Grovernment House, 
St. Greorge's Grrammar School, Public Library, Museum, &c. 

There are many places worth visiting, such as the Patent 
Slip, and Ice works, breakwater, harbour and dock works, 
Green and Sea Points, Bobbin Island, Infirmary, and others. 

It is the seat of Grovernment, the capital of the colony, and 
the centre of all public business. It is connected by telegraph 
with Port Elizabeth, Graham's Town, King William's Town, 
and all the principal places in the eastern districts. It ex- 
ports wool, copper ore, hides, horns, ivory, and ostrich feathers, 
to England and foreign countries ; corn, wine, and brandy, to 
the Eastern provinces, British Kaffraria, and Natal. 

Fine steamers run regularly to and from England with the 
monthly mails, and thus keep up a regular correspondence with 
the Mother-country. Two lines of railway, of about thirty miles 
each, branch off from the town, and fine roads scaling the loftiest 
heights connect it with the remoter districts. 

The Eoyal Observatory is about three miles from Cape Town, 
prettily situated, and possesses much interest. The present 
manager is Sir Thomas Maclear, who has made it one of the 
most valuable colonial institutions of the British Government. 
It is furnished with very superior instruments, and the clear 
atmosphere of the Cape fits it in a remarkable manner for astro- 
nomical observations. Sir Thomas has added greatly to astro- 
nomical and meteorological literature. 

A time-ball drops from the flagstaff at one r.M. Cape mean 
time, and a corresponding one on the Lion's Eump falls at 
nearly the same instant, at a point where it commands the 
sweep of the whole bay. 

There are three lights, one on Eobbin Island — a white fixed 
light of the first order, dioptric ; a white light of the third 
order, flashing at intervals of ten seconds, and can be seen thir- 
teen miles at sea, placed on Green Point; and a third on 
Mouil'le Point with a red light, fourth order. On Cape Point 
is an iron lighthouse, thirty feet high, having a revolving white 
light of the first order, visible thirty-six miles seaward. A fine 
breakwater is in course of construction, on the plan of that in 
Portland Bay, England. 



44 A CAPE WAGGON. [Ch. II. 

In 1860, the first truckfull of stones was tripped into the sea 
by Prince Alfred. There are 1,820 feet completed. An inner 
dock is also far advanced, 1,025 feet long, by 250 and 500 
broad. The whole of it has been blasted out of hard blue rock, 
and the stone carried into the sea for the breakwater.^ 

The streets are laid out at exact right angles, and, like all 
towns in south Africa, are wide and well kept. On account of 
the large waggons with their spans of twelve to fourteen oxen, 
there is a bye-law compelling streets to be of a certain width, 
to allow of room for turning the unwieldy vehicles. 

A Cape waggon is certainly unique in make and appearance, 
but admirably suited to the country roads, which frequently 
descend deep ravines (or kloofs, as they are here called), mount 
steep hills, with only a rough path cut through the bush, or 
ford the stony beds of rivers. There are no nails in them ; all 
is of the toughest wood, iron-bound, and so constructed as to 
yield to the exigencies of the road. The Trek-oxen are gene- 
rally fine animals, and a farmer takes the greatest pride in 
having his span of twelve well matched. Jet black, chestnut, 
dun with black faces, or bluish grey are the favourite colours. 
Every ox has a name, to which it answers at the driver's call ; 
or when deaf to that, he has a terrible weapon in the .whip 
he uses. It is of stout elastic bamboo, twenty to twenty-five feet 
long, with a lash of the same length tipped with afoot of leather 
prepared in a particular way. It is a boy's first plaything, and 
it is considered quite a feat to clap well — though, if the stroke 
is missed, the lash recoils on the unskilful wielder. The clap^ 
is like the report of a pistol, and a good ox won't need to feel 
it for he knows by experience the driver can hit the offender 
with unerring aim. There are three daily markets, to which 
all the products of the country are brought. 

Cape Town boasts of eight half English and Dutch newspapers, 
and four published entirely in Dutch. Most are ably conducted, 
but the rival editors carry on an unceasing war. 

' The English Church is under the supervision of a bishop, 
with large staff of clergy. The Dutch Reformed Church has its 
synod there ; the London, Wesleyan, South African., and French 

' Since this was written, the Breakwater has been opened for use by Prince 
Alfred in a late visit. 

* Clap is the word used instead of crack in the Cape. 



Ch. II.] GOVERNMENT AT THE CAPE. 45 

Missionary Societies, Ebenezer, Lutheran, and Scotch Presby- 
terian churches, Koman Catholics, Jews, and Mohammedans, all 
are represented there, and disseminate their doctrines far and 
wide over the vast colony.' 

Masonry is carried on to a great extent. There are over fifty 
lodges and chapters of Masons and Oddfellows. Near the Parlia- 
ment House is the Grood Hope Lodge of Knights Templars, 
said to be one of the finest in the world ; built about thirty 
years ago ; elegantly frescoed inside — the work of an Italian 
artist — and it has a fine garden attached to it. The King of 
Holland is the Grrand Master. This institution has about 
12,000^. out at interest, which is loaned to orphan children of 
masons, to educate them ; each child giving his individual note 
for the money, which becomes a debt of honour, to be paid when 
circumstances permit. 

Adjoining the Lodge is an elevated ground, used by the 
members for the game of golf. It is played with balls, struck 
through rings with shinney sticks, and the champion generally 
gets a prize. 

The museum, besides foreign objects of interest, has a fine 
collection of the animals and insects of the colony. In the 
same building is the library, containing 35,000 volumes, besides 
5,000 valuable books of reference. I saw an original copy of 
Shakespeare, presented by Miss Burdett Coutts, which cost 716/. 
I think it is a pity that she did not give them the money in- 
stead, towards educating some of the poor children of the town. 
A full length portrait of Prince Alfred adorns the library. 

I was greatly amused at the signboards in the streets, which 
bore the drollest names, one especially with Mr. and Mrs. 
Death on it. 

Sir P. E. Woodhouse is the present Grovernor, and Sir E. P. 
Douglas, Bart., Lieutenant-Governor and commander of the 
forces. ' The colony is ruled by an Executive Council of five 
members, the Chief Judge presiding ; a Legislative Council of 
twenty-one members chosen for ten years, the Grovernor its 
President ; and a House of Assembly of sixty-six members, re- 
presenting the country districts, elected every five years, and led 
by a speaker — the same as in the English House of Commons.' 

A fine portrait of Sir Gr. Darling — a former Governor — is hung 
in the Hall of Assembly. 



|6 DUTCH BOERS. [Ch. II. 

The former feeling of ill-will between the Dutch and English 
has nearly died out in Cape Town, and is so greatly modified in 
the provinces it is rarely met with ; indeed, the young Dutch- 
man's greatest pride is to speak English well, and be dressed 
English fashion. 

The Dutch language in Cape Town, where spoken, is high 
Dutch, but in the remoter districts it is a vile mixture of low 
Dutch, Hottentot, and bad English. From what I saw. Queen 
Victoria has few more loyal subjects than the descendants of the 
former possessors of the Cape of Good Hope. They are noted 
for hospitality, and as to the cleanliness and order of the houses 
of the Dutch, I cannot speak too highly in praise of them. 

It is rare to see near the capital one of the true race of Boers, 
which, for the benefit of my friends, allow me to say, does not 
mean a rude churl, as with us, but merely a country farmer. 
The Boer proper is almost extinct. Occasionally may be seen 
men of athletic make, over six feet, dressed in moleskin pants, 
and short round jackets, a felt high-crowned hat, and velt 
schoons or shoes of undressed leather ; accompanied by wife 
and children of all ages, in short skimp skirts, little round 
capes or kerchiefs, and monstrous cappies {anglice poke 
bonnets), quilted, with a deep curtain to them, and a bunch of 
faded artificial roses pinned on top. They are a nineteenth- 
century wonder, and take you back to the early days of New 
York, till you fancy it is Eip van Winkle in 'propria persona, 
risen again after another 200 years' sleep. 

He certainly could not look more astonished at the progress 
of the present day, than an up-country Boer does at the various 
articles for luxury or comfort displayed in an English shop, 
when he condescends to visit one. 

A curious story was told me of one of these old men, who 
was blest with several stalwart sons, all expert enough in plough- 
ing, sowing, or reaping, but who knew little else than these arts. 
Some trader visited the far away farm, and told marvellous 
tales of the outer world, and advised the father to let his sons 
travel. The idea worked in his brain, but took long to develop. 
One day, greatly to his eldest son's astonishment, he told him 
to go to a neighbour's farm for a month, and amuse himself 
and see all he could of the world ! and away went Jan well 
pleased. On the trader's retm-n the old man told him he had 



Ch. II.] WYNBERG. 47 

followed his counsels, and sent his son to see the world. This 
aroused the man's curiosity, so he asked him to what country he 
had packed him off so soon, and if it had not been a great grief 
to part from him. ' Ach mein Grott, yah, but I think it will 
be for the lad's benefit to see the world, so sent him to Mynheir 
van Zwartes', twenty miles off, and told him to stop a month 
and see all he could ! ' 

I bid farewell to Cape Town about eight o'clock ; and as I 
had sent on my carpet bag &c. by the mail cart, I set off on 
foot anxious to see some of the places on the road to Simon's 
Bay. 

I passed the observatory, but had not time to stop there, and 
went on to Wynberg, where I saw the establishment of 
Plumstead, formerly belonging to a Mr. Batts, an Englishman. 
He had laid out 150 acres in splendid gardens, with fine 
avenues of oak and other trees ; and the houses must once have 
been handsome, but are now in ruins. He died in 1833, and, 
as is a common custom in the Cape, lies buried on the property, 
under a handsome monument of Sicilian marble, on each side 
of which are inscriptions from the Song of Solomon in letters 
of gold, but it is rapidly going to decay, and is half hidden in 
weeds and shrubs. 

I saw some fine fields of tobacco, which is very largely culti- 
vated. Great quantities of Cavendish, cigars, and cut tobacco 
are exported. The mulberry tree grows to a great size, and 
latterly silk cultivation is going on. The samples produced 
are very fine, and it has been found that the wild mulberry 
{Morns latifolia) is equally as good for the food of the silk- 
worm, as the true mulberry, and of much more rapid and easy 
growth. 

From the numerous vineyards, I could have fancied myself 
in the south of France. The lovely village of Constantia lies 
in this neighbourhood, famous for its delicious Constantia and 
Pontac wines, which, to be thoroughly appreciated, should be 
drunk on the spot. Wynberg is fourteen miles from Cape 
Town, and is the terminus of one branch of the railway. I 
passed through Clermont, Mowbray, and other pretty villages, 
all of which had an air of neatness and comfort quite refresh- 
ing to see. At Eondebosch is the country seat of the Grovernor, 
a well wooded and cultivated demesne. 

E 



y 



48 FLORA OF THE CAPE. [Ch. II. 

I arrived in Ealk Bay, hot and tired, but got a comfortable 
little dinner at an English hotel. This is a famous watering- 
place for the gentry, who in the summer months avail 
themselves of the cool sea-breezes and bathing. It is a pretty 
little tree-embowered village, close to the bay, and can boast 
of some good houses and an English church. I saw there some 
of the pretty girls the Cape is famous for ; and in dress they 
were no way behind the mother-country in elegance and 
fashion. 

After a rest I pushed on for Simon's Bay, passing several 
fishing villages, and enjoyed immensely the sea-breeze that 
tempered the midsummer heat, as I kept along the shore. I 
reached Simon's Town just after dark, and at once took a boat 
and went on board, where I found all ready for departure, and 
next morning we slowly steamed out of the bay. I should have 
liked greatly to have extended my stay in the Cape to botanise 
in some of the districts. The descriptions I had of them 
making me long to prove them realities. 

Though some parts are sterile enough, others are strewn with 
the loveliest flowers. The Ericas must be seen in their rocky 
beds to be appreciated, particularly the scarlet one with its 
bells an inch long. It is the native land of the Griadiola, and 
in some places they literally cover acres of ground. Its lilies, 
from the purest white, through all the shades of pink, to the 
deepest crimson ; the large blue and white lotus blossoms 
floating over the rivers, orchidese, gesnerias, geraniums, 
especially the large ivy-leafed species ; jessamines of countless 
varieties, the ritje peren, equal to the finest tuberose, clematis, 
bignonias, and thousands of others of earth's loveliest children, 
bewilder one with their beauty and perfume. 

I saw air plants from the distant Greorge District, of the 
species called the elephant's foot, with its clusters of pale green 
leaves and pinkish blossoms, and one about the size of a cricket 
ball; in a dry vase on a lady's mantlepiece. It had shot out 
delicate stems and leaves till it reached the ceiling, and she 
had trained it like an espalier fruit tree, and it was just 
showing bunches of pretty lilac flowers. But I could not 
describe half I saw and heard of. As I stood looking back at 
the town, I felt regret at leaving it, for I had received much 
kindness and hospitality, and I hoped one day to revisit its 
shores. 
/ 



Ch. II.] A STORM. 49 

On the 28th the barometers fell ; the weather changed and 
it became thick and cloudy towards sunset, with a heavy swell 
on the sea. After dark the wind rose, and by midnight it was 
blowing a gale, and the waves broke over the hurricane deck with 
such fury that it was with difficulty the vessel could make way 
against them. Towards morning the storm abated, and then 
we had a few days tolerably fair weather, till January 6, when 
the sky became gloomy, dark, and threatening ; clouds passed 
swiftly to the north, the sea rose, and the ship rolled heavily- 
and there were all the symptoms of an approaching storm of no 
ordinary force. The night fully justified our fears. Heavy 
blasts of wind, straight descending torrents of rain, lightnings 
forked and sheet, the creaking of the ship's timbers, the few 
sails set torn to ribbons and flapping loose, the thundering 
noise of the tremendous waves as they neared us, each one 
threatening to engulf our vessel — made up a wild and fearful 
spectacle, but yet grand and sublime in its very wildness. 

The men worked hard at repairing and bending the storm 
sails, and standing by the pumps knee-deep in the water that 
washed unceasingly over the decks. 

Daylight showed us the extent of our damages. The paddle- 
boxes were injured ; the round-houses smashed in and washed 
away ; the rail forward stove in, and the one-inch iron plates 
were bent double. The ring-bolts to which the heavy guns 
were secured started from the deck, and the guns threatened 
with each roll to break adrift from their lashing's. A 
temporary lull gave time for a few repairs ; and we hoped for a 
change of weather, as the five hours' rain had beaten down the 
sea considerably. 

Towards evening, however, the tempest recommenced. A 
red lurid light spread all over the sky ; and, shortly after the 
setting of the sun, the ocean rose again furiously, and 
announced its fresh vigour by breaking over our starboaixi, 
washing and sweeping away all before it, tearing away the 
gratings of the hatches, breaking the after skylight, and rush- 
ing down into cabins and wardroom, floating everything and 
drenching everybody. The wheel-ropes were carried away, and 
the ship, paying off before the wind, became unmanageable. 
The guys of the smoke-stack broke, and it was feared we should 
have the whole mass of iron descending on us, when a general 



so CYCLONES. [Ch. II. 

smash would have taken place. The ship coming to again, 
filled her decks with water, and leaning over to port, remained 
so long in that position that the stoutest heart quailed, and 
anxiously counted the seconds, till at last she gallantly rose 
again on the crest of a wave. 

Luckily the sea had stove in the lower ports, so that the 
immense quantity of water found a ready egress from the deck, 
and the vessel, lightened of the weight, rolled less. New wheel- 
ropes were rove, and the storm having exhausted its fury, by 
daylight it was greatly abated, and the sun rose red and 
gloriously. It was a dismal scene old Sol shone down on, 
but the puffing and snorting of the powerful engine showed that 
her working gear was uninjured ; and the good ship, so severely 
tried, sped onward gracefully, throwing the splashing glittering 
spray from her bows back into the conquered ocean. 

Eeflecting calmly on these past dangers, I cannot omit to 
render thanks, next to God, to the cool and steady bravery in 
the hour of peril of our gallant commander and to many of the 
officers and crew of the ' Monocacy,' for safe delivery out of 
one of those terrible cyclones that occur in the South Indian 
Ocean. 

Deeply interested in the laws of storms, I succeeded, by 
careful observations of the barometers and thermometer, no- 
ticing the changes of wind and temperature, and the rising and 
setting of the storm-wave, in ascertaining pretty correctly the 
centre of the hurricane, and reduced the aforesaid changes of 
wind and weather to the rules laid down by Messrs. Piddington 
and Eedfield in their admirable treatise on the laws of storms. 

The officers of the vessel kindly supplied me with a copy of 
the log, which greatly aided me in tracing the cyclone home to 
its vortex. 

Taking a scientific view of hurricanes and cyclones and the 
management of vessels therein, it is clear that there are three 
ways of managing a ship in, or at the appearance of, a cyclone. 

First, in order to avoid the same, (in case there is plenty of 
sea room) the vessel should be hove to on the proper tack ; 
secondly, if a ship is caught inside of a storm-disc, the only 
changes to be adopted are, running before the wind, or heaving 
the ship to ; and the latter, when, on account of the high or 
cross seas, the safety of the ship is endangered, the only course 



Ch. II.] THEORY OF STORM CENTRES. 51 

left is to run before the wind in a tangent direction towards 
the inner storm-disc, and then gradually to edge off to the 
outer limits of the cyclone ; and, lastly, by running on the 
outside of the wind's circle, and even profiting by it. 

But the question is how to know the approach of a cyclone, 
and how to find the proper bearings of its centre. Considering- 
then every cyclone as a great whirlwind, the direction of every 
wind is rotary, of which the outer part is a common close- 
reefed topsail breeze, such as no good seaman cares for, and by 
which no seaworthy ship is injured. The violence of the wind 
increases with great rapidity as the centre is approached, till 
close to, or in it, when it becomes of a destructive fury. Even 
if this centre should have a diameter of fifty or sixty miles, 
round which the storm is revolving, the first care must be to 
ascertain how this point or centre bears, in order to guide 
future manoeuvres. Now as the 'Monocacy' on January 6 
was, according to her log, in lat. 32. 15 S. and long. 47. 45 E., 
with the wind marked as ESE., the centre of every common 
wind would lay, according to proved and established rules of 
storms, to the E. by N. or ENE. 

In the remarks in the log it is said, ' Clouds accumulating, 
cloudy and damp, moderate breeze from SE. by E., sent up 
fore topmast ; from 4 to 6, squally and damp, heavy swell 
from SE. by E., light winds ; 6 p.m., a drizzling rain.' 

But with all these clouds and dampness, we find the state of 
the barometer as shown in the diagram, stating the position of 
the ship and centre bearings : the storm-disc, with its hourly 
changing tangent angles, is named a moderate gale, the outside 
circle of a hurricane, accompanied by a slightly disturbed sur- 
rounding atmosphere. 

The greatest signs of an approaching cyclone are the oscilla- 
tions in barometer and sympiesometer, more especially a high 
barometer with gloomy threatening weather. In the trades or 
monsoons this is always a sure sign of a coming tempest. 

The question naturally arises, Can the barometer assist 
in forming an approximative estimate of the ship's dis- 
tance from the centre ? On first consideration, it is evident 
that there are very great differences in the fall and rise of the 
barometer and sympiesometer in various storms, though they 
may be all true cyclones. Consequently, the variations of these 



52 EASTWARD BOUND, [Ch. II. 

instruments may very often mislead, but the shortness of time 
in which these changes happen is enough to make even the 
most careless seaman understand the danger and close approxi- 
mation of the destructive centre. 

The accompanying diagram shows the height and hourly 
change of both instruments, and the distance from the centre 
is worked out according to Mr. Piddington's rules. Certainly 
these calculations can only be made approximatively, but coming 
so near the truth that we may consider the result to be the true 
centre. 

In the Southern Indian Ocean the rate of travelling of a 
hurricane may be stated to be little more than nine or ten miles 
per hour, and especially in the meridian between Mauritius and 
Madagascar the rate rarely exceeds eight ; so it is evident from 
the little progress the ' Monocacy ' made against a head wind 
and sea, the course to the N. and E. brought her nearer to the 
focus. 

The weather during the following days showed no material 
alteration. I found the oscillations of the mercurial barometer 
and the vibrations of the aneroid very strongly marked, which 
are common signs during a cyclone. 

On January 7 the water changed to a dark brown colour, and 
the sea was running furiously. 

On the 8th, the storm having passed, no material danger 
threatened, and the barometer kept unusually high, and the 
sky wore a brighter appearance than ordinary. The air was 
charged with a great amount of electricity, and incessant 
tliunder and lightning were the consequences. Before I con- 
clude this description, I will add a word or two as to one of 
the supposed origins of Cyclones. It appears to me that a 
simply flattened spiral stream of electric fluid generates above, 
and, expanding in a broad disc, may amply account for the 
commencement of a cyclone, by its descending to the surface 
of the earth ; and that likewise its onward motion, in such a 
direction as the laws of force and gravity drive it, may account 
for its continuance, and the oppression and exhaustion of its 
force for its termination. 

The unequal motion is naturally the consequence of one side 
of the disc being more flattened, and causing the cyclone to 
advance more rapidly. The descent or settling down of 



Bcuromeder 28.5=14548^ 



^ce orresislance orEUctric rUdd 
^1 Citb}.c root' 0-734S6 -5-4-37. 

MecL-Ts ofUlectTi^ //a^ 

2S-15 Sym.0076. 

B \ Barometer 2 9.8^^UJ4?,9. 

^orce ofre6ist''f 0. 73S83 

C \Baro TneCer 3ami^3766 - ^.^ 

\ Force^ of Resist*^ 0.87Z.76 



\) \Baromet€r 3 0.5^i_4MW 

J'orce of Jlesf'^t'^ 0.89763 



y^^aromS3a7-U87. 




Ch. IL] storm chart. 53 

cyclones has in numerous cases been proved. The appearance 
of the vortices of violent tornadoes within the body of great 
storms is not unfrequent or new. 

When about 400 miles from Mauritius, the sea was full of a 
floating mass of matter resembling brown Ectocarpi. It was 
very difficult to get up in a bucket. A few days later I 
saw much other matter floating about, of a gelatinous nature ; 
the old sailors said it is frequently seen after tropical storms. 
It appears of the confervoid family. 

By the night of the llth, we neared the Eound and Flat 
Islands, two apparently barren rocks, adjacent to the Mauritius ; 
and little sleep was there on board, all being anxious to gain 
port again, after our long voyage. 



Description of the Storm Chart 

The cords a a, B B, c c, d d, e e, f F, are the different currents 
of air, arranged according to their intensity; the logarithm 
annexed to the barometer-stand, is likewise the logarithm for 
the base of the triangle, a B c, which is formed by the descend- 
ing electric fluid ; the perpendicular erected on the surface of 
the globe, and the barometer-stand 29*8, or each following 
barometer-stand of decreasing intensity, necessarily increase the 
base, perpendicular and hypothenuse, but always keep in the 
same proportion to one another. The question how to find the 
angle B, the resisting force created by the pressure of the air, 
is solved by the following proposition : as base is to radius, so 
is the hypothenuse to sine of angle b, which increases propor- 
tionately with the base, and vice versa. The atmosphere 
surrounding the earth creates a refraction of the electric fluid, 
similar to the refraction of the rays of light, and calculated on 
the same principle, but in this case always considering 29*15 as 
the mean of the intensity of the electric fluid ; the rotation of 
the earth gives to the fluid a circular motion, and creates there- 
by, in opposite hemispheres, a reverse action, but forms at the 
same time a set of air currents, which are but the cotangents 
to the different storm-discs. 

The only variations in the calculations that can arise, are 
those occasioned by local prevailing winds, and the air-currents 




Prepared for h'kes Sibb-'lropCcal F.r'thUs. 



rabUshedbji Sampson, Lm;MarfU>n,, Low, &SearUi Oowrc tlui/di/wa, 188 Fleet, Str^ l.uivdorv. 



54 RATE OF STORM TRAVELLING, [Ch. II. 

that are thereby formed. But when, as in this case, the local 
prevailing winds are ' trade winds ' or monsoons, the angle 
thereby occasioned can almost be guessed, within 10 or 12 
degrees ; and as the force of the wind acting upon the fluid is 
counteracted by its own spiral motion, the error in the calcula- 
tion will be so slight that we may readily take the result for 
the true deviation of the fluid, and the veritable rate of the 
travelling of the cyclone. The electric fluid descending is 
represented in the same angle, as careful researches in the 
log of the U. S. steamer ' Monocacy ' proved it to be on 
January 5, 6, and 7, 1867. The circles marked with arrows 
are the tracks of the cyclone extending from lat. 36 to 20 S., 
and covering an extent of from 40 to 45 degrees of longitude. 
The rate of the cyclone's travelling may be estimated at seven 
miles per hour, and the situation of the vortex in 57. 30 E. 
long., and lat. 27. 14 S. 





.ox 



•a 



^ 



v.. T, ^ ^^., ^^^^^^^^j 



MAI' shewintf the position of the United States Steam frigalx> 'MONOCACY' in the South Indian Oceaji , during the CYCLONE of the 5* 6* 7*^ & S^ January, 18R7 

^ ^ 13y Mciiolas fike, United Slates Consul, Tort Xouis, Mauritius. 




. 'refa"J, /br Pike's Sub-HvpuxdHumhles 



Edfi^yfelleL-.COw- ffinZ J<ot. -Spar,? 



Ablis7ied iy Sampson, low, Mtrslon,, Low, & Searle, &-0K7L BuiMirufs, 188 Fleet Sir.' londo, 



CHAPTER III. 

ABRIVAL IN MAUBITIU8. 

First Impressions of Port Louis from the Sea — Landing — A Night in an Hotel— 
The Harbour — Architecture of Houses — Chaussee — Principal streets — Place 
d'Armes — Government House — Government Street — Theatre — Champ de Mars — 
Labourdonnais Street — Mineral Spring — Water— New Town — Plaine Verte — 
Company's Gardens — Bazaar — Moka Street — Railway Depot — Barracks — Col- 
lege — Churches — Mosque — Barbers — Masonic Lodges. 

Dat dawned on January 12, 1867, bright and clear, and the 
sun rose brilliantly in a cloudles«? sky, as we hove in sight of 
Mauritius. On Bearing the land, the fields of waving canes, 
topes of cocoas, and groves of Casuarinas, gave a pleasing im- 
pression of the place ; but when approaching Port Louis harbour 
the beauty of the view is unsurpassed, and no easy task to 
describe. 

The varied character of the ranges of basaltic hills reminded 
me of the far-famed Organ Mountains in South America. 

The city of Port Louis lies in an extensive valley ; and as we 
approached the Bell Buoy, the outermost anchorage for ships, 
a glorious scene presented itself. In the far distance was the 
world-known Peter Both Mountain ; just behind the city rose 
the bold sweep of the mountain peak called the Pouce, to the 
height of 2,847 feet, wooded to its summit ; to the east lay the 
gentle slopes of the Citadel Hill, bastion crowned ; to the west, 
abrupt and rugged, the steep cliff called Long Mountain Bluff 
reared its signal-topped head (whence vessels are seen and 
signaled far out at sea) — all formed an entourage few cities can 
boast, and rendered it, when viewed from the sea, the most 
picturesque in the world. 

We dropped anchor about noon inside the Bell Buoy, about 
a mile from Port Louis ; and, as soon as we got pratique, 



56 ARRIVAL IN MAURITIUS. [Ch. III. 

numerous small plying boats appeared manned by Lascars, who 
clamoured for the honour of putting us ashore ; but, as we had 
the vessel's boats at command, we declined their invitations. 

At 1 o'clock the booming of the heavy guns of the frigate 
announced my departure from the good ship ' Monocacy,' which 
had carried me over so many thousand miles of ocean, and 
through many a storm. 

I felt sorry to leave her and her gentlemanly commander, 
than whom a braver and more accomplished officer never trod 
the deck of a vessel. 

As I landed at the granite quay, well adapted for the traffic 
of this busy mart of the East, with its ever flowing fountain 
of crystal water for the use of the shipping, I was forcibly 
struck with the conglomerate appearance of the people, and the 
jargon they spoke. Creoles and Coolies, Arabs, Cinghalese, 
Malagash, Chinese, and Malabars ; all as eager as in other parts 
of the world to take the stranger in, and carry him off, body 
and baggage, to the nearest hotel. 

I entrusted the latter to one of the most respectable-looking 
men ; but, despite the offers of half-a-dozen cab and carriole 
drivers, I preferred walking with a gentleman well acquainted 
with the city, who met me on my arrival. 

We wended our way to the Hotel Univers, said to be the 
hest^ through a dirty narrow street ; and, entering a low archway, 
we were ushered by a coloured waiter into a damp, ill-ventilated, 
low-ceilinged room, in which were a bar and three billiard 
tables ; and gentlemen of colour were amusing themselves 
knocking over wooden pins placed on the tables with billiard 
balls. 

Persons of various colours were smoking pipes and cigars, 
and drinking wine at little tables placed about the room. The 
landlord, a comely, well-spoken Frenchman, soon made his 
appearance, asked me to walk upstairs, and showed me into a 
room — one of a row facing a street through which ran one of the 
filthiest streams my eyes ever rested on. This room was about 
ten feet square, and contained an iron bedstead covered with 
mosquito netting, a table, and some chairs. Ventilation there 
was none except from the door, as not a window had evidently 
been open for some time. I made an agreement with the 
landlord for two dollars and a half per diem, and then went to 



Ch. III.] A BED FULL OF VERMIN. 57 

the Custom-house to see after the rest of my baggage. I 
returned about 6 o'clock, when I was shown into the dining- 
room, which had small tables placed on each side for the 
accommodation of the boarders, and a bill of fare was handed 
me. 

Everything was brought from below in little dishes ; for 
instance, I ordered a plate of roast chicken, and a leg was 
brought smothered in parsley, with one potato ; a beef steak 
— and half-a-dozen such would not supply the appetite of a 
hungry man — and everything else was served me in infini- 
tesimal doses, miserably cooked. 

I strolled out in the evening into the ' Company's Gardens,' 
which are opposite to the hotel ; why called gardens I knew 
not, as neither flower nor shrub grew there, only some fine 
■ banian and other trees shaded the place. 

I returned to my dirty, uncomfortable hotel ; and, after 
passing a miserable night, rose at daylight weary and 
sick. What with bugs, mosquitoes, and cockroaches, (to say 
nothing of centipedes six inches long !) the knocking about of 
billiard balls till late, and the loud laughter and gossiping of 
the coloured servants, sleep was impossible. The mosquito 
curtains were not properly beaten, and whole families lay in 
wait for their unsuspecting victim ; the cockroaches ate my 
clothes, the ants got into my trunks, lizards crept over the 
walls, and rats, bold as lions, were all over the house ! 

What a delightful place to live in, I thought ; if this is a 
specimen of the jivBt hotel in Mauritius, Heaven bless those 
obliged to put up with the second and third class, which must 
contain vermin enough to destroy a regiment of soldiers.^ 

Port Louis is the only city of Mauritius, and is situated 
in the NW. of the island. It covers an area of about ten 
square miles, and is nearly enclosed by a ridge of mountains on 
one side, and bounded on the other by the sea. Its fine 
natural harbour is capable of affording anchorage to a large 
number of vessels of heavy burden, and they can ride safely 
even in ordinary hurricane weather with due precaution. 

The entrance to the channel is through coral reefs, well 
marked out by buoys, and has an average depth of thirty-five 

' It is but fair to state, things are managed better there now than when thie wap 
vrritten. 



58 ARRIVAL IN MAURITIUS. [Ch. III. 

to forty feet, and, within the harbour, of fourteen feet. It is 
well defended on the opposite sides by Forts George and 
William, and the citadel, which stands back of the city, also 
overlooks and commands it. 

There are two lights as steering points for ships arriving at 
night, one at the light ship at the Bell Buoy, and another at 
Flat Island. 

The streets of Port Louis are straight, and cross each other at 
right angles. They are mostly macadamised, but very roughly 
so, and kept tolerably clean, with the exception of the open 
sewers and drains, alike offensive to optic and olfactory nerves, 
and injurious to public health. The side walks are paved, and 
never obstructed by boxes, bales, or anything that can impede 
the progress of the pedestrian. 

Several rivulets flow through the town, swollen to rushing' 
torrents in rainy weather, bringing down masses of mud and 
debris ; and in dry seasons almost stagnant, exhaling foetid 
odours, and adding largely to the malarious condition of the city. 

Most of the older houses are of one storey, built of wood ; 
but the more recent buildings are of stone. To judge from 
their style, each individual must be his own architect, and 
follows the whim of the moment rather than any known rules : 
this does not at all contribute to the symmetry and beauty 
of the streets. I can safely say there is but one really hand- 
some edifice in the colony, and that is on the Labourdonnais 
estate, in the vicinity of Riviere du Eempart. 

The interior of the houses is very plain, and consists of 
drawing and dining rooms, and a few sleeping apartments, which 
all have the outer hurricane shutters, crossed with a strong Z 
shaped bar, that gives them a very monotonous appearance. 
Nearly all possess small dependencies called pavilions, which 
contain two or three bedrooms for guests. 

The principal street for shops is the Chaussee, nearly the 
oldest part of the town, built chiefly of wood and old-fashioned- 
looking, a great contrast to the interior of the shops. There, 
all is of the latest Parisian fashion, and you may purchase any 
article for a lady's toilette, from a Lyons silk dress to plain 
English calico. Jewellers' shops shine resplendent, where 
objects of French l%ixe, are to be found up to any price : gold 
and gems, especially diamonds, the favoiu:ite Creole bijou, 



Ch. III.] 



PORT LOUIS. 



59 



dazzle the eyes and set you wondering how so small a place 
can find purchasers for such luxurious articles. 

A curious feature in this and other streets is the juxtaposition 
of one of these elegant magazines with a Chinese store, where 
are retailed, salt fish, charcoal, wines, porter, cocoa-nut oil, rice, 
wood, lard, and the thousand etceteras required in a household ; 
all of which are sold in the smallest possible quantities for the 
convenience of customers. I am obliged to confess that all the 
Fiver's essences in the one sliop do not overpower the abominable 
odours of the other ; Port Louis at times can rival Cologne in 
the latter item. 




STATUE OP LABOUKDONNAIS, PLACE U'ARMES. 

Between the Chaussee and Eoyal Street lies the Place d'Armes, 
in front of the quays, shaded by banian, boisnoir {^Acacia 
Lebheck) and the flamboyant of Madagascar (Poinciana regia). 

I gazed on the latter when I landed, in astonishment ; they 
were covered with their magnificent scarlet, yellow, and white 
flowers, lying on the soft delicate green of the foliage and 
forming the loveliest bouquets I had ever seen on one 
tree. 

On the left hand of the quay are the Custom-house, marine 
stores, and large covered sheds, for the landing of goods and 
sale of merchandise ; and on the right are merchants' offices, 
provision stores, &c. 

Just facing the landing is a finely-executed statue, in bronze, 



6o ARRIVAL IN MAURITIUS. [Ch. III. 

of M. de Labourdonnais, the best and ablest of the French 
Grovernors, to whom Mauritius is largely indebted. It is the 
first object that greets the eye as you step on shore, and it does 
not need much stretch of imagination to fancy he is welcoming 
the stranger to the shores for which he spent so many years of 
untiring devotion. 

On either side of the Place, are the Gruard's room and 
offices of the Commissariat Department, the Chamber of Com- 
merce, broker's and auctioneer's rooms, and the Oriental Bank 
— a large two-storied building — the principal bank here. 

Seats are placed under these beautiful trees ; and there 
planters and merchants discuss all the affairs of the island, and 
the ladies say all the gossip and scandal too ! A wide mac- 
adamised road runs through the Place, and on each side of it is 
a cab and carriole-stand. The fares for these vehicles have a 
fixed and pretty reasonable tariff, except on certain holidays 
when the drivers are allowed to fix their own prices. 

At the upper end facing the sea is the ungainly, miserably- 
constructed Grovernment House — the city residence of the 
Grovernor — where the legislative councils, levees, government 
balls, &c., are held. It was in course of erection when the 
English took the island, and they seem to have completed it on 
the old French plan. 

The continuation of the Chaussee, Eoyal Street, extends 
nearly to the limits of the city on the north side. Most of the 
stores and shops here are of stone, and marvellous is the variety 
of goods to be found in what would be a plain ironmonger's else- 
where. Adjoining Grovernment House, are the offices of the 
Colonial Secretary and other officials, in a low shabby build- 
ing, fortunately better-looking inside than out, or the gentle- 
men might feel they were sent to prison for so many hours 
daily of their official life. 

A narrow street runs alongside Grovernment House, and in a 
row of dirty-looking tenements are the Audit and Surveyor- 
Greneral's offices. Savings Bank, and, meanest of all, the Post 
Office; then, a little higher up, the Police Court, Internal 
Eevenue departments, and lawyers' rooms. There is a new 
Post Office in course of erection near the Custom-house.^ It is 
to be hoped that this new light and airy place will give a pro- 
portionate impetus to the activity of the clerks on mail day. 

xsow completed. 



Ch. III.] 



THE THEATRE. 



6i 



This small street opens out into the spacious one of Grovern- 
ment Street, in which stands a theatre, once, they tell me, 
elegantly decorated ; but alas ! all its pristine splendour has 
departed, and it is now in a woefully dilapidated condition. 
Nearly every year a troupe of French actors and opera singers 
come from Europe, and divide their time between Mauritius 
and Bourbon. I cannot say much in favour of those I have 
heard. A curious spectacle is presented when the house is full, 
with its mixture of white and colour, all en grande toilette. 
The only English acting is when the officers and men of the 
different regiments give an evening's entertainment in the 
theatre, and they genemlly draw good houses. 




THEATRE, PORT LOUIS. 



Opposite the theatre is Morillon's ice-house, where young 
Mauritius most does congregate between the acts, and consumes 
any amount of gateaux, bonbons, ice-creams, &c., not forgetting 
either the stronger stimulants of sherry and soda and their 
congeners. 

Above this are the large blocks of buildings, where the Courts 
are held, municipal business transacted, the head-quarters of 
the police, and the main entrance to the gaol. 

There are some very pretty dwelling-houses higher up, with 
tastefully-decorated gardens in front. 

Parallel with this are Church Street, of Flore JNIauricien 

F 



62 MAURITIUS. [Ch. III. 

fame (dear to all lovers of gateaux, pates, &c.), Bourbon and 
Corderie Streets, all terminating in the Champ de Mars. 

This is a fine grassy plain, unmistakably once a large crater, 
the walls of which on the north-west were broken out seaward. 
There is not a tree or shrub to be seen on it, strange to say ; 
when, with a little trouble in planting trees round it, a splendid 
promenade might be made — so much needed in a place that 
suffers from heat eight months in the year, as Port Louis does. 
At the foot of the plain the Mauritius Cricket Club has erected 
a pretty pavilion, and laid out a square for that healthy and in- 
vigorating amusement ; but, by the same perversity that seems 
to govern everything in this island, they seem to play most in 
summer, at a temperature when you feel disinclined even to 
walk, to let alone running insanely after cricket balls. 

In the upper part stands a stone monument, twenty-five feet 
high, erected to the memory of M. de Malartic, one of the 
French Governors. 

Eound the Champ de Mars runs a race-course, kept in fine 
order by the Mauritius Turf Club. The race-stands are not per- 
manent, but put up once a year just as they are required for the 
races. 

Pretty country villas — the residences of the families of mer- 
chants, Grovernment officers, and others — surround the plain. A 
road leads up the Pouce Mountain from the head of the Champ 
de Mars, and country houses are built a good way up. ^ Two 
other fine streets are Rempart and St. Greorge (which join at 
the top), and their continuation, Wellington Street, that runs up 
into the large plain of the Champ de Lort ; but these are prin- 
cipally for dwelling-houses, most of which have gardens in front. 

Nearly the only shops in these streets are the indefatigable 
John Chinaman's. In every angle of every street you will find 
him in his one, or at most two, rooms, which serve for house and 
shop ; with the inevitable rows of sardines, olive oil, porter, and 
Warren's blacking. 

Labourdonnais Street, that extends from mountain to moun- 
tain on either side of the city, crosses the above. At its 
extreme end, under the base of the Signal range, is the residence 
of Mr. E. Mayer, where the inhabitants formerly congregated 
in the morning to drink of a mineral spring, said to be equal 
to the famed Cheltenham waters in England. 



Ch. III.] 



MINERAL SPRING. 



63 



It was discovered by Mr. Tiedman, and a careful analysis 
gives the following results: — 



Carbonate of magnesia 1 
lime .] 
Chloride of sodium 
„ ,, magnesium 
„ „ lime 
Sulphate of magnesia . 

„ „ lime 
Oxyde of iron 
„ silica 



5-50 

50-00 
6-00 
7-75 

32-00 
6-25 
6-75 
1-75 



I tasted the spring, and should think it would be very effica- 
cious in the diseases such waters are used for. It has not been 
open to the public for some years, but the gentlemanly pro- 
prietor supplies the water gratis to anyone applying for it. 
Like many other good things within everybody's reach, little 
advantage is taken of it ; although large sums are spent 
yearly in importing quack medicines of similar properties from 
Europe, not half so useful as this would be. 

The whole city is well supplied with water from three canals. 
One of them is brought round the base of the Signal Moun- 
tain, is led across the Champ de Lort, down a ravine, and up to 
the Champ de Mars, which it traverses, and then passes into 
the New Town behind the Citadel Hill. 

Nearly the whole of this new part of the city, as ftir as the 
Valley Pitot, has sprung up within a few years, since the water 
was laid on. It was hoped that its healthy situation would 
soon render it quite a fashionable place — a sort of West End — 
and some very nice houses were built. One part rejoices in the 
name of the Boulevard Victoria, but it seems a failure as to its 
ever becoming fashionable. 

The Plaine Verte runs at right angles with Royal Street, is 
about a mile and a half long, and is well laid out. 

It was here in former days that executions took place, before 
hanging was substituted for beheading. 

There is a little covered market-place, where meat, fruit, and 
vegetables are sold — a great convenience to those in this 
neighbourhood, who live a long way from the large market of 
Port Louis. 

A fine promenade extends its whole length, well shaded with 
trees, and fountains at intervals ; one, a nude female figure, with 



64 PUBLIC GARDENS. [Ch. III. 

a cornucopia under her arm, from which gushes a limpid 
stream, is mounted on rough rockwork, about ten feet high, in- 
terlaced with ferns and creepers, and surrounded by an ever- 
green cassia hedge, but all sadly out of order. 

In the heart of the town are the Company's Gardens, guarded 
at their entrance from the Chaussee by two stone lions. Once, 
they say, this was a delightful promenade for ladies, all planted 
with elegant flowering shrubs and creepers, with a fountain, 
from which meandered little rills in all directions, and every 
tree had a green turf bank at its foot, but, alas — turf, flowers, 
fountain, and ladies, are but things of the past ! In a desert 
space, innocent of all verdure save the over-arching banian 
trees, stands a bronze monument of Mr. Adrien d'Epinay 
on a stone pedestal, and surrounded with an iron railing : a 
memorial of the dead in the place of the once life-giving fountain. 
Instead of fair dames, in their elegant Parisian toilettes, pro- 
menading, you see only groups of coloured nurses with their 
charges, scolding and gossiping, or chaffering with the vendors 
of cakes or cocoa-nut -water. 

The gardens are traversed by a small street, dividing the old 
from the more modern part. The latter is laid out in winding 
shady walks, separated by high cassia hedges ; and at the end is 
a fine bronze fountain, constantly playing into a large stone 
basin, round which are seats, where in an evening are groups of 
Creoles, smoking, chatting, and flirting, though the latter is 
principally confined to the alleys. 

Opposite this fountain stands the Mauritius Club House, 
where the gentry, coloured and white, particularly those who 
reside in the country and come into the city daily for business, 
take tiflSn, smoke their Havannah, sip their claret, or play a 
game at billiards.^ 

Near this is a large gloomy building, shaded by rows of the 
melancholy filas-trees, whence issues daily the ' Commercial 
Grazette,' the only English newspaper, printed by the only 
steam press in the .island. 

From the quays runs a narrow street, at the top of whicli are 
the Civil and Military Hospitals, and close to them the large 
depot for Indian immigrants. 

' This club has proved a failure, and the building is now used for merchants' 
offices. 



Ch. III.] A BAZAAR. 65 

The Bazaar, or Market House, is worthy of special notice. 
The whole is surrounded by tall iron railings, and a number of 
gateways give entrance from the different streets. A wide 
avenue traverses the whole of the bazaar ; and on each side 
are large covered sheds, with a good raised pavement, on which 
the produce is exposed. 

On the right hand from Queen Street are the fruit stalls, 
where some kinds of fruit are always to be found, according to 
season, except soon after a hurricane. 

The principal are bananas, cocoas, costard apples, mangoes", 
litchis, pines, limes, citrons, alligator pears, sack, papaye, 
pistaches, and a host of other tropical fruits. With some few 
exceptions, I found them at first insipid or too sweet, in com- 
parison with the fruits of more temperate zones. Oranges and 
grapes do not thrive here, though I have seen some miserable 
little bunches of the latter sold for a dollar a pound. Bananas 
are always in the market, and there is a great variety, from the 
little Gingeli, of two inches, to the red Plantain, over a foot^ 
long. 

Oranges and apples are frequently for sale, but the former 
come from Seychelles, Cape, or Bourbon, and the latter from 
Australia, or brought in the ice ships from New York. On 
arrival, these fruits fetch from sixpence to a shilling each. 

On the left hand side of the market are the vegetables, and I 
believe there is a better supply than in any market out of 
Europe. The principal are potatoes, native, Bourbon, and 
Australian ; squashes, cabbages, red and white, brocoli, turnips, 
carrots, peas, beans, onions, patates, &c. &c. 

There are numberless green vegetables sold, used by both 
Indian and Creole population. Many of them, called Bredes, 
are made into a sort of bouillon with a little salt meat, and 
form a standing dish from the highest to the lowest, eaten with 
rice, the invariable adjunct of the breakfast and dinner tables. 
The Brede Martin (^Solanwra nigrum) and a few others habit 
has rendered palatable ; and they are, I believe, very wholesome, 
or as a Creole would tell you, ' bien rafraichissants,' their defi- 
nition of a dozen or two different bredes, tisanes, and messes of 
all sorts. 

This is a busy, bustling scene ; every one must go or send to 
market every day for fresh provisions, and the bargaining on all 



66 THE MARKET. [Ch. III. 

sides in the high-pitched voices of both Creoles and Indians 
make it a very Babel. Here sits a fine buxom Malabar woman, 
tempting you with her nice fresh greeneries, and thankful if 
you spend only a halfpenny. 

There a sulky fellow who gTowls and snaps at everybody. In 
one corner a group of men and women chattering over some 
deficient sous, and whose attention you have a difficulty in 
attracting sufficiently to supply your wants, which at last they 
do, continuing their wrangle all the time. 

In solitary state apart, sits another with a few shillings' worth 
of things before him or her, stolidly indifferent as to whether 
you buy or not. 

Here you can purchase the strange stiff bouquets so much 
prized, from threepence up to five dollars. 

Large cages of native birds, particularly the pretty scarlet 
cardinals with their brown mates, love birds ; and greenish 
yellow canaries that sing so sweetly, are offered for sixpence a 
pair. Beautiful foreign birds are frequently for sale, brought 
by sailors from the Brazils, Australia, India, and the brightest 
of all from New Gruinea, but they fetch high prices. Behind 
the fruit stalls is a place set apart for dried provisions, sold 
mostly by Arabs, who expose their wares on the pavement in 
small sacks, and strong Indian baskets. 

Beans of almost every known species, rice, maize, spices, 
chilis, coffee, cigars, seeds, and drugs are in abundance — also 
dried herbs. There is scarcely a leaf or bark of indigenous or 
exotic plant or tree that is not used by Creole or Indian for 
some ailment. They have the most profound faith in herb 
teas or tisanes ; and the latter know, unfortunately, too well the 
dire properties of the m.any vegetable poisons in the island, 
and use them freely too when prompted by revenge or other 
passions. 

Beyond the Arabs is a long line of tables for breads principally 
sold by Creoles, made into small French loaves, fetching a 
moderate price. Still further back is a row of stalls, kept 
entirely by young Malabars, of every conceivable thing in a 
small way. Most of them speak a little English, of which 
they are very proud. 

Woe betide the imlucky stranger who goes into the line un- 
prepared. A rush is made each one vociferating, ' What you 



Ch. III.] PROVISIONS. \ 67 

want ? Come to me, he no good,' and so on, offering you the 
most incongruous articles. Should you have been rash enough 
to ask for anything, you will be deluged with it. They have 
quick eyes to discern a stranger, and some of the young scamps 
quite patronise you. At least three or four times as much as 
is meant to be taken is asked, as they know they will be beaten 
down. I once saw a friend asked sixpence a dozen for buttons, 
and for fun he ran the gauntlet the whole length of the line, 
and by the time he got to the bottom, the fellow ran after 
him, and offered the same buttons for a shilling a gross ! 

Farquhar Street divides the upper from the lower bazaar. The 
latter is for meat, fish, &c. On the left hand of it are the meat 
stalls, where very fair beef, Creole and Madagascar, may be 
had from five-pence to ten-pence a pound. Mutton is sold by 
the joint, at extravagant prices, rarely fine ; and goat's flesh is 
so often substituted for mutton, that a piece of the skin is 
generally left on to prove its identity. The veal is coarse and 
red, and pork is principally sold by Chinamen. Few English 
or French will eat the latter, as it is considered so unwholesome 
in a tropical climate ; besides, the way of feeding pigs here 
makes one shudder. 

Sometimes a fine pig is ofiered for sale from some newly 
arrived vessel, and then the pork is bought up readily. The 
Chinamen are the great consumers of pork, and at their numer- 
ous feasts roast five or six pigs, often, if not too large, whole. 

Below the meat are, poultry, eggs, &c. Greese, turkeys,, 
ducks, pigeons, guinea-fowl, manilla ducks and fowls, can be 
bought, but they are very dear, and miserably fed. 

The opposite side is almost exclusively for fish, and like all 
the rest of the bazaar, is kept very clean. 

A stream of water pours constantly over the sloping tables, 
so that the fish look always nice and fresh. 

I suppose no place in the world can boast such a variety of 
fish, and many of them of such brilliant colours, that I can 
only compare them to the gorgeous plumaged birds of India or 
South America. The most esteemed are the mullets. Dame 
Berry, red and spotted vieilles, corne, cordonnier, rougets. 
pike, eels, and others. Fine crabs and crayfish (called here 
lobsters) are very abundant ; small shellfish, indifferent oysters, 
and the cat fish, are sold in great quantities. Large sharks, 



68 SANITARY REGULATIONS, [Ch. III. 

rays, and other monsters are also cut up in slices, and sold to 
the Indians.^ 

Below the fish stalls is a space set apart for the sale of cattle 
and goats, but few of them are in fine condition. 

In the centre of this market is erected a stand, on which is 
a large pair of scales, attended by a municipal officer, and any 
one being aggrieved by receiving short weight, can have the 
article re-weighed, and if found wanting, the seller is arrested, 
heavily fined, and loses his standing in the market. 

The bazaar is well regulated, and under the supervision of 
inspectors who examine everything before it is allowed to be 
offered for sale, and any article not perfectly fresh is at once 
condemned and confiscated. A small tax is imposed for the 
rent of the stalls, as well as on all dead and live animals. By 
an ordinance of September 1, 1855, in consequence of cattle 
disease at the Cape, whence came large supplies to the colony, 
all persons having beasts for slaughter, are compelled to have 
them examined by a veterinary surgeon, at the municipality 
slaughter-house, some distance out of the city. They must, after 
passing the surgeon, who has the right to decide if fit or not. 
be killed immediately. Should any animal after death present 
symptoms of disease, the carcass is ordered off, and taken in a 
boat to the Bell Buoy, and flung overboard, when it is quickly 
devoured by the sharks which swarm outside the reefs. The 
greater part of the vegetables sold in the bazaar are grown by 
Indians, in the environs of Port Louis, Aux Failles, Moka, &c., 
and are brought in small donkey carts long before daylight. 

In one corner of the fish market is always a plentiful supply 
of coffee, cocoa tendre, or the soft white su])stance in the cocoa 
before the nut sets hard in its shell, and cocoa-nut milk, rice, 
and other cakes, with which the vendors regale themselves, 
and these often form the only food they take till their return 
home towards noon, of course including the inevitable pipe, 

' Some years ago a calculation was made of the amount of fish supposed to be 
consumed daily in Mauritius. The following was the result: — 
2,000 lbs. of fresh sea fish, 
1,000 „ salt „ 

150 „ fresh water ,, 

600 paquets shrimps and camerons, 
300 „ oysters. 

The above amount gave the annual sum of ,^220,000. A correct calculation made 
at the present day would most likely give a great increase on the above. This 
does not include imported salt fish. 



Ch. III.] THE RAILWAY, 69 

too often filled with opium, gunga, or some other deleterious 
narcotic. 

f rom the lower end of the bazaar runs Moka Street, and in 
it, facing Eempart Street, stands the old French Government 
House, a two-storied stone building, with a large dome in the 
centre, which lights the interior. It is now occupied by a firm 
of English merchants as a warehouse for the storage of goods. 
It is of considerable interest in connection with the history of 
the island, being the only city residence of the French 
Grovernors during their possession of the Isle of France. Moka 
Street is long and dusty, the great outlet to the city on the 
western side, with more traffic than perhaps any other, but 
principally filled with little provision shops, held by Chinamen 
or Lascars, canteens, &c. &c. Nearly every shop in it (unlike 
the rest of the city) is lit up at night, and I have often strolled 
up it after dark, greatly amused watching the strange manners 
of the various races. All Eastern nations are just as much 
addicted to story telling as in the old days of Haroun al-Easchid, 
and in nearly every little shop in the streets are groups eagerly 
listening to some one relating stories as marvellous as the 
Arabian Nights. 

At gunfire, or eight o'clock, all the Lascars burn a kind of 
frankincense in their scales, and about the shops, muttering 
prayers over it, to keep away the devils, to bring them good 
sales the ensuing day, and render the house lucky. 

Leading out of this street is the Central Railway depot, a 
fine stone building, well arranged and convenient. From this 
station all the trains leave for both Northern and Midland 
lines. The fare for the north line is three dollars and three 
quarters, and for the other four dollars and a quarter. The 
roads are admirably laid, its rolling stock is first class, and it 
is well conducted. Its numerous stations, plainly but sub- 
stantially built, and well constructed bridges, reflect great 
credit on the firm of Messrs. Brassey and Company, the con- 
tractors for this railway. Telegraphs have been lately added, 
and few places in the world can boast a more convenient and 
comfortable arrangement of carriages, &c. — whether it will 
ever be a profitable concern remains to be seen. 

Just beyond the depot are the Line Barracks, built of stone, 
on one side two stories high, and the whole substantially en- 



70 



CATHEDRAL, 



[Ch. IIL 



closed with strong walls ; having two large gates, one in 
Barrack and the other in Moka Street. The square contains 
twelve acres, and makes a fine parade and exercising ground 
for the troops. They are capacious enough for some thousands 
of soldiers ; but since the epidemic, the military have nearly 
abandoned them, and now they are partially occupied by the 
police. There is a talk of pulling them down, and building- 
new ones on the high land at Plaines Wilhems, which I should 
think is a much more sensible arrangement ; for it seems to me 
to have been a great mistake to have a barracks in the centre of 




CATHEDRAL, PORT LOUIS. 



a densely populated city like Port Louis. Along the southern 
walls runs a ditch, which may originally have been intended as 
a moat, but now receives a good deal of sewage water, making- 
it a most unpleasant locality. 

In College Street, in a large enclosure, stands the Eoyal 
College, an irregular building, dating from 1791. One side of 
it is employed as a Museum, and here the meetings are held 
of the Royal Society of Arts and Sciences. 

The principal edifices for religious worship in Port Louis are 
St. James's Cathedral, on a slight rise between Pondriere Street, 
Denis and Labourdonnais Streets ; the Eoman Catholic Cathedral, 
in Grovernment Street ; the Church of the Immaculee Concep- 
tion in St. Greorge Street ; the Scotch Church, a little above the 



Ch. III.] GOING DOWN HILL. 71 

bazaar ; the Independent Chapel, in Poudriere Street, and the 
Mohammedan Mosque, in Koyal Street. There are a few other 
temporary places of worship, which are mentioned elsewhere, 
and a Lascar temple near Plaine Verte. 

Taken altogether. Port Louis is a quaint, old-fashioned 
place, and I fear it is not destined, at all events for some time 
to come, to be much modernised and improved.' 

A painful picture is presented by the endless notices of ' To 
Let ' on almost every other door in many of the streets. Fine 
old stores, once heaped with costly merchandise, and let at fabu- 
lous prices on lease, now fetch a few dollars a month for one or 
two rooms (all the rest shut up), let most probably to some 
coloured cobbler or cigar vendor, where he works, and resides 
with his generally numerous, and with rare exceptions, noisy 
and dirty family. 

The depreciation of property in Port Louis has gone steadily 
on since the fever. The white population is gradually deserting 
it for the healthier districts. I do not think the day is far 
distant when it will be almost entirely in the hands of the 
coloured races, unless a total change is made in its sanitary 
condition, either by drainage or some other means of altering 
the present defective sewerage. The Indians also must be 
compelled to conform to European habits of cleanliness, and 
utterly give up their own antagonistic ideas on the subject, before 
this city can be a desirable residence, in spite of its being the 
capital of the ' Grem of the East.' 



CHAPTER IV. 

PAMPLEMOUSSES GABDENS. 

M. Poivre — Description of Gardens — Centre Avenue — Obelisk — Lakes— Sago 
Walk — Avenue of Fine Trees — Effects of Hurricane — Nursery — Boabab — 
Grassy Slope — Mr. Home's Cottage — Curious Trees near it — Dr. Meller's 
House —Fernery — Bernadin St.-Pierre — Loss of the St.-Geran — Captain's 
Death — And that of the Two Lovers — Tombs of Paul and Virginia. 

At the distance of seven miles from Port Louis, in the district 
of Pamplemousses, are the celebrated Botanical G-ardens,founded 
by M. Poivre in 1768. The island is greatly indebted to this 
gentleman for the introduction of the clove, nutmeg, and other 
spices, besides a large variety of useful and ornamental trees, 
procured with great difficulty and expense, from both hemi- 
spheres. 

These gardens have been from time to time replenished from 
the various botanical gardens of Europe, Cape Town, Australia, 
and India, and now form the special attraction of the colony. 

The numerous and shady avenues, and the comfortable little 
thatched pavilions scattered in all directions, impervious to the 
weather, render this a favourite resort of the citizens of Port 
Louis, on Sundays and holidays, especially during the intense 
heat of summer. 

These gardens have been recently enclosed with a substantial 
iron railing imported from Europe. The entrance is through 
massive iron gates, and on the right there stands a pretty little 
lodge for the gatekeeper. 

As far as the eye can reach, a long straight avenue extends, 
thickly lined on each side with the Latania glaucophylla 
palm (Mauritius), and towering above them to a great 
height are the slender stems of the areca-nut palm {Areca 
catechu), sometimes, but erroneously, called the Betel nut. 



Ch. IV.] THE GARDENS. 73 

with its small tuft of feathery leaves forming its crown. Below 
these leaves are clusters of bright yellow fruit, which the 
Indians and Malays chew, with the leaf of the Betel plant 
{Piper Chavica) and lime. This fruit possesses intoxicating 
properties, and powerfully stimulates the salivary glands and 
digestive organs, and diminishes the perspiration of the skin. 

In the far distance, in the centre of the avenue, is an obelisk, 
erected to the memory of those who have introduced into 
Mauritius either useful plants or animals. 

Eound this monument are some fine specimens of a rare and 
beautiful palm, the Latania aurea (Duncan), from Eodriques. 
The natives of that island build their houses with the outer 
slabs of its trunk ; make the rafters of its leaf- stalks, which 
sometimes attain the length of six to ten feet, with a diameter 
of two to four inches thick, and thatch them with its leaves. 

From the obelisk we pass over a little bridge, spanning a clear 
stream, down a long winding path, so densely shaded by the 
Traveller's Tree {Ravenala Madagascariensis), Yacoas {Panda- 
nus utilis), EaflBas [Sagus Rufia), and others, that it is imper- 
vious to the sun at noonday, and gives a better idea of tropical 
scenery than any part of the gardens. Here and there are 
clumps of the feathery Bamboo, which prettily conceal little 
pavilions with seats and tables, where you may breakfast or dine 
quite undisturbed by passers by. 

The extension of this walk is bordered with the Stevenson 
palm (^Stevensonia grandifolia), and passes the new rosary, 
where are thousands of rose trees grafted or budded with all the 
varieties of Europe, except the loveliest of all, the Moss rose, 
which has either not been introduced, or will not thrive. 

There is a small lake, surrounded by a grassy bank, and full 
of blue and white lotus plants, that in the season cover its 
surface with their large blossoms. There are also some fine 
specimens of the lace, or lattice leaf plant {Ouvirandra fenes- 
tralis), with its curious skeleton leaves, dichotomous spiked 
inflorescence, and pretty white flowers which show their heads 
just above the water. 

Further on is a large lake, containing several pretty islands, 
two of which are approached by bridges, and have seats under 
the trees for visitors. The centre islands are inaccessible, and 
are covered with the traveller's tree, palms, casuarinas^ and a 



74 PLANTS. [Ch. IV 

tangle of lowering shrubs and underwood. There are two fine 
white swans on its waters, presented by Lady Barkly, and a 
handsome black Australian swan, which some time ago unfor- 
tunately lost its mate. It follows the white ones about, but the 
poor fellow gets terribly snubbed by his snowy comrades. 
They are all quite tame, and eat from the hand. This lake is 
full of the celebrated gouramier, and golden dace, also of 
monster eels, one of which is so tame that whenever the swans 
come to be fed, he pops up his ugly head, and takes his share 
too. 

Half encircling this lake is a winding alley of fine sago palms 
(Cycas circinalis), and rare shrubs and flowers are planted 
between it and the water's edge in clumps in the grass. The 
fruit of these palms is eaten in the Moluccas, and an inferior 
kind of flour is made by pounding its kernels in a mortar. It 
also yields a gum which, when coagulated in the air, is applied 
to malignant sores, and it excites suppuration in an incredibly 
short time. 

Terminating the sago walk, rise about a dozen magnificent 
specimens of the Oreodoxa regia palm (Cuba), far exceeding in 
beauty those of the King's Grardens at Eio Janeiro. 

The walk round the other half of this lake, is bordered with 
rows of the Licuala horrida palm, rightly na.med, for every 
stem and leaf is bristling with thousands of sharp spines. 

In a corner between this lake and the garden wall is a small 
plantation of the China grass cloth plant {Boehmeria nivea), 
the fibre of which is said to be worth in the European and 
American markets, about SOl. to 100^. the ton. It is cultivated 
here as an experiment, for propagation and distribution to the 
planters. 

Turning to the left on entering the gardens, are two walks 
shaded by magnificent trees, the most remarkable of which are 
the following : — the Lecythis 'minor, with its large fruit in the 
form of an urn, from which the top spontaneously separates 
like a lid. The Bassia latifolia, or Illipie tree, the fruit of 
which, when pressed, yields a large quantity of fatty oil, used 
in India for lamps, soap making, and food, and also employed 
medicinally in cutaneous disorders. The Strychnos nux vomica, 
or Strychnine tree, which produces the well-known poison-seeds ; 
its bark is also supposed to be Vf^ry poisonous, though they say 



Ch. IV.] PETER BOTH. 75 

the pulp in which the deadly nuts are imbedded is eatable. 
The Camphor tree {Canruphora ojfficiarum), from which the 
Chinese obtain camphor by boiling pieces of its roots, wood and 
branches, until the camphor begins to adhere to the stirring- 
rod. This is a noble umbrageous tree, from three to five feet 
in diameter. (The hard camphor of Sumatra and Borneo, is 
obtained from the Dryobalanops CaTuphora, quite a different 
tree). The Hymencea Gourbaril and Hymencea verrucosa : the 
former is the West Indian Locust tree, with a close-grained, 
tough wood, in great request for tree-nails, used in the plank- 
ing of vessels, and the latter is an East Indian tree ; both yield 
the copal used for the well-known varnish. The Ghry- 
sophyllum, or Star Apple, producing a fruit much esteemed 
in its native country (India) as an article for dessert. The^ 
Semecaiyus AnacardiuTn, the ' marking nut tree ' of commerce ; 
from its seeds the varnish of Sylhet is obtained ; it is extremely 
dangerous to some constitutions, as the skin when rubbed with 
it becomes inflamed, and covered with pimples that are difficult 
to heal, and the fumes are said to produce painful swellings 
and inflammation. The Tectona grandis, or Teak tree, that 
yields the well-known and valuable timber. The Adenanthera 
pavonina and the Pterocarpus santalinus, both giving red 
and scarlet dyes ; the pretty smooth bright-red seeds of the 
former are made into necklaces, baskets, &c. ; and the Ptero- 
caipus draco, or Dragon's Blood tree, that furnishes the dragon's 
blood of commerce, which is sometimes, but improperly called 
gum dragon. 

The ground under the shade of these interesting trees has 
been recently laid out in beds for the better cultivation of 
shade-loving plants, or rather plants that require shade in 
so hot a climate, such as begonias, fuchias, gloxinias, gesnerias, 
&c. &c. This pleasant spot is close to another alley of fine 
palms, arecas of different species, and at intervals are seats, 
from which a good view of the Peter Both Mountain is obtained. 
Many of these palms are 100 years old. Sad destruction was made 
among them by the hurricane of March 1868, and as it would 
take a great amount of time and labour to replace the old trees 
by young ones, and the soil would require entirely renovating, 
mahogany trees are being planted in their places. These hand- 
some trees are grown from seeds sent by Dr. Hooker, Director 



76 LAKE SCENE. [Ch. IV. 

of the Eoyal Grardens at Kew, and are, I believe, the first planted 
in Mauritius. 

Near to this alley are two other newly introduced trees, the 
Siphonia elastica, or India-rubber txee. Nearly the whole of 
the India-rubber used in England is procured from the 
Siphonias of Brazil and Guiana. 

In the centre of the gardens, a portion of ground is set apart 
for a nursery. This produces a large supply of young plants 
for distribution in the colony. In 1865 over 50,000 young 




TROPICAL TAKE SCENE. 



trees were distributed. New varieties of the sugar-cane are 
also propagated in this nursery, to enable the planters to re- 
place the exhausted varieties now cultivated in the island. 

To the right of the main entrance are rows of new exotics 
and beds of bright-coloured flowers and shrubs, all classified and 
named. Beyond these is one of the pleasantest parts of the 
gardens ; a grassy slope extending downwards to another large 
lake, that has also a pretty island encircled with rock work, 
Raffias and Vacoas. 

^ From the leaves of the Eaffia, before they are fully unfolded, 
the Malagash make hats, mats, and a great variety of useful 



Ch. IV.] GIGANTIC TREE. TJ 

and ornamental articles. The scales of its pericarp, when 
polished, are sometimes used as an ornament for the outsides 
of workboxes, baskets, &c. 

Its petioles or leaf stalks are employed for palisades and 
rafters in hut building, and when kept dry will last from twenty 
to thirty years. The vacoa is often called the Screw pine, from" 
the peculiar spiral form the leaves assume in their convolutions 
round the trunk. Under the crown hangs the beautiful but 
uneatable amber-coloured fruit. The leaves are narrow and 
flat, and the natives plait them into mats, baskets, and sugar 
bags. The latter are universally used in the packing of sugar, 
and one would imagine ought to be a source of profit to the 
poor in the country ; but, like so many other useful productions 
growing with little trouble over the island, its cultivation is so 
much neglected, that the greater part of the bags used are 
imported from Madagascar, and some other of the adjacent 
islands. 

Out of this lake flows a stream, with a pretty fall of water 
that passes under an iron bridge into the ravine below. 

A very attractive feature on the grassy slope is a gigantic 
baobab {Adansonia digitata), measuring thirty feet round at 
the collum. It has a singular fruit, about a foot and a half long, 
covered with a rough brown coat, and hanging from a very long 
thread-like stem from the branches. In Western Africa, its ' 
native country, it is said to live thousands of years, and grows 
so large that whole families can reside in its hollowed trunk. ^ 

Scattered over the turf is a small collection of coniferous 
trees, natives of both hemispheres. Many of them have only 
been planted about three or four years, but they would scarcely 
be excelled in beauty in their own climates. 

There are very fine specimens of araucarias, dammaras, pinus, 
two or three specimens of thujas, cupressus, juniperus, and 
callitris. 

This collection is being added to yearly; and the graceful 
forms of these exotics mingled, with groups of bananas, travel- 

' Adanscn notices one -which three centuries before had been observed by two 
English travellers, and on excavating the trunk of this tree, there was found an 
inscription they had written, covered M'ith 300 ligneous layers ; from this they 
were enabled to judge how much the gigantic plant had grown in 300 years, and 
comparing it with the diameter of the tree, it was estimated that the probable 
duration of its existence was upwards of 5,000 years. 

G 



78 TROPICAL VEGETATION. [Ch. IV 

ler's trees, and the more regular-shaped exogens, particularly 
the fine tamarinds {Tamarindus indica), have a picturesque 
and striking effect to a stranger's eye. 

In the midst of all this wealth of tropical vegetation, here and 
there one starts with delight, as one finds some of our northern 
climate's pet flowers. Close to the monstrous Baobab is a bed 
where the English honeysuckle blooms in wild profusion, and 
most of us are tempted to break the st-rict rules against gather- 
ing flowers, in order to take away a spray that recalls so 
vividly ' auld lang syne.' Passing along the upper part of the 
grassy slope, over a stone bridge, covered with the large blue 
thunbergia, you see the cottage of the sub-director on the left, 
with the chief's offices. 

In front of Mr. Home's, is a fine Satin-wood tree (^Sivietenia 
Chloroxylon), which, in its native country, grows to the height 
of 100 feet ; and a handsome plant of the Cow-itch [Mucuna 
pruriens). Not far from the cottage stand two splendid Bread- 
fruit trees, not only the oldest in the island, but supposed to 
be the parents of all the rest of this beautiful and useful tree 
in Mauritius. Near these, by the side of a canal, grows one of 
the Carludovica palmata, from the unexpanded leaves of which 
are made the famous Panama hats. 

Then come rows of the elegant feathery cocoa-nut, and Cocos 
plumosa, and the majestic Talipot palm {Gorypha urnhraculi- 
fera). The Cinghalese make mats from the leaves of this 
palm, which serve to construct their temporary huts. These 
mats are so light that a man can easily carry enough for a tent 
capable of containing twenty people ; and, with a few sticks 
from the nearest jungle, two or three men will run it up in 
about twenty minutes. 

There is another walk shaded by the Grommuti palm 
(Saguerus saccharifer), from which sugar (called 'jaggery' in 
India) is made in the Moluccas, Ceylon, and the Philippine 
Islands. Its juice, when fermented, produces ' toddy,' that 
arrack is distilled from in Batavia. A fine tree has been known 
to yield ninety pints of toddy in a day. From its trunk, when 
exhausted of its sweet juice, a good deal of the sago of com- 
merce is obtained, and one tree will give about 200 pounds of 
sago. 

The hairy-looking fibre that envelopes its trunk at the base 



Ch. IV.] BERN A DIN ST.-PIERRE. 79 

of its petioles is used by upholsterers as a substitute for horse- 
hair to stuff cushions, and is called gommuti or giou fibre, and 
serves also for caulking vessels, and making ropes. 

There are some of the Caryotaurens palms, which also yield 
sugar, toddy and sago. The palms giving the largest quantity 
of sago are the Sagus Icevis and S. genuina, the former of 
which often produces as much as 800 pounds from one trunk. 

In a pretty enclosure on the right is the house of Dr. Meller, 
the Director of the Grardens,^ with its verandah completely 
hidden behind masses of the lilac bourgainvillsea, the scarlet 
ipomaea, and monster passion flowers. 

Under the supervision of this accomplished botanist, and the 
energetic management of Mr. Home, the gardens have greatly 
improved, and new and useful plants are being constantly in- 
troduced into the colon5\ 

Close to Dr. Meller's house is the Fernery, admirably situated 
on a rocky descent, with a pretty sparkling stream at its foot. 
It contains many hundreds of ferns and orchids, about 150 of 
which are natives of Mauritius. Here may be seen the cele- 
brated Coco de mer, from Seychelles, with its great twin nuts. 
From the delicate fibres of the leaves, the elegant baskets, 
fans, hats, &c., are made. There are several squares planted 
with nutmeg, clove, and other spice trees, that all bear prolifi- 
cally. The mangosteen of India grows here, but it must be 
either a very different or very inferior fruit, if one can judge 
of it by the descriptions given by travellers. 

It would be a hopeless task to try and give a more detailed 
account of all the beautiful trees, shrubs, creepers, &c., of these 
gardens, as there is no printed guide to them, and except the 
late additions none are named, so that it is an emharras de 
richesses when one attempts a description of them. 

In a work on Mauritius, it would never do to omit all men- 
tion of the tombs of Paul and Virginia at Pamplemousses. 

Bernadin St.-Pierre's world-known and interesting romance 
has spread a sort of halo round Mauritius for well nigh a cen- 
tury ; and to those who never visited the island, it will still have 

^ Since this was written the colony has had to deplore the loss of Dr, Meller, 
who died whilst on a yisit to Australia to purchase fresh canes to replace the 
exhausted and diseased species in the Island. The gardens are now ably managed 
by Mr. J. Home. 



8o WRECK OF THE ' ST.-GERANJ [Ch. TV. 

charms. But one has only to be there a few days before the 
positive absurdities in it strike one forcibly. 

Writers of romances, when about to draw largely on their 
imaginations, should be very careful to conceal the actual 
whereabouts of their stories ; for this very realistic age, when 
steam and electricity annihilate time and space, when the most 
distant corners of the earth are better known than Scotland or 
Ireland a century ago, is sure to take the romance of mystery 
out of them, and display their ridiculous side when reduced to 
fact. 

The following narration will show on what St.-Pierre 
founded his tale. 

In 1744, drought and locusts had occasioned a terrible 
scarcity in the Isle of France, and the ' St.-Greran ' was sent from 
the mother-country, to assist the Grovernor, Mahe de Labour- 
donnais, richly laden with arms and provisions. This was 
doubly needed, on account of the failure of several large 
vessels, just returned from India, in procuring a supply of rice. 

The ' St.-Greran ' was in sight of Eound Island at four p.m., 
and the captain, M. de la Marre, wished to profit by a fine 
moonlight night to enter Tombeau Bay, but it was afterwards 
decided to lie to till the next day. In consequence of ignor- 
ance of the dangerous coast, the ship touched on the reef, 
towards three in the morning, about a league from the coast, 
and the same distance from Isle d'Ambre. The sea there 
generally runs high, and drove the ship with violence on the 
breakers. 

Every effort was made to lower the boats, but the crashing 
down of the masts stove in their bulwarks, and carried them 
away. The keel soon after breaking in the middle, engulphed 
the centre, and fixed the extremities of the ship on the reefs. 

At M. de la Marre's request, the chaplain pronounced a gene- 
ral benediction and absolution, and the ' Ave Maria Stella ' was 
sung. 

Numbers of the crew flung themselves into the sea, on planks, 
yards, oars, or anything that offered a hold ; but, carried away 
by the currents, beaten and tossed by the waves, nearly all 
found a watery grave. 

A sailor named Caret made the greatest efforts to save M. 
de la Marre. He implored him to take off his clothes, but he 



Ch. IV.] PAUL AND VIRGINIA. 8r 

persistently refused, saying, ' It did not become the dignity of 
his position to land without them.' 

Caret at length succeeded in placing his captain on a plank, 
and the intrepid fellow swam a long time through the strong- 
currents dragging the plank after him. 

Encountering a raft laden with the crew, M. de la Marre 
thought he would be safer on it, and left the brave Caret for 
the raft. Plunging to avoid collision, the latter, as he slowly 
rose to the surface again, found to his horror that raft and 
men all had disappeared, engulphed in the boiling waters. 

There were on board two lovers, a Mdlle. Mallet and M. de 
Peramon, who were to be united in marriage on arriving at 
the Isle of France. 

The young man, as anxious and agitated as the girl was calm 
and resigned, when the others left, was making a sort of raft on 
which to save her who was dearer than his own life. On his 
knees he implored her to descend with him on to the frail but 
sole hope of safety ; and to ensure a greater certainty, he 
begged her to take off the heavier part of her garments. This 
she steadily refused to do. When he found his most earnest 
solicitations vain, and consequently all hope of saving her lost, 
though she entreated him to leave her, he quietly took from a 
pocket-book a tress of her hair, kissed it, and placed it on his 
heart. With his arm round her to shield her as far as he could 
to the last, he calmly awaited the terrible catastrophe at her 
side ; nor had they long to wait, for they were soon washed 
from the deck, and their bodies were picked up at Tombeau 
Bay.i 

Eight of the crew and one passenger were all that were saved, 
and made known the details of the shipwreck. This disaster 
was the more frightful as it took place at a season of the year 
which is always calm in these regions, and it can only be attri- 
buted to the imprudence of the officers and their entire ignor- 
ance of the coast. 

The two tombs shown as those of Paul and Virginia are two 
common-place brick and mortar structures, whitewashed, or 
at least they were so, years ago. They are situated in what 

' It is said this bay derived its name, the Bay of Tombs, from the number of 
bodies washed on shore there from the St.-Geran. 



82 DECLINE OF ROMANCE. [Ch. IV. 

was once a fine garden, a little rivulet flowing between them, 
and shaded by beautiful palms and feathery bamboos. 

I had a special mission from a romantic young lady to send 
her some flowers from the tombs, as precious relics ! Sad to 
relate, when I visited them there had been heavy rains — the 
whole place was a swamp, and I could not get within a hundred 
yards of them. However, I gathered a few rose leaves from 
another part of the garden, which, I do not doubt, answered 
equally as well. 

Now, instead of the silence and seclusion once surrounding 
this show-place for all visitors, a railway station is within a few 
yards of it ; the iron horses go thundering by, and the progress 
of steam has caused a consequent decline in romance in 
Mauritius as well as elsewhere. 



CHAPTER V. 

THE BACKS. 

The Beginning of Racing in Mauritius — Unprofitableness of Eaces — Horses very 
Inferior — Rules and Regulations up to Newmarket mark — No Information to 
be got — Preparations for Races — Race Monday — General Excitement— The 
Race — Jockeys — The Loges — Saturday — Scenes in Bazaar — Costumes — Nautch 
Girls — Toilettes — Painful Case of take in — Return Home. 

The commencement of the racing era in Mauritius was in June, 
1812, under the direction of Colonel Draper, a member of the 
English Jockey Club, and the fine field of the Champ de Mars 
was appropriated to the sport. 

How matters were then carried on I know not, but I doubt 
if the racing was ever much to boast of. It is true that for 
years fresh blood from Europe, the Cape, and Australia has been 
imported, but like the human race, the equine degenerates 
rapidly here, and racing does not appear to have been a profit- 
able speculation, for some of the most energetic importers 
have entirely ceased and given up their studs. 

I have witnessed two of these exhibitions of horse-flesh, and 
considered the whole affair as got up by a few private specula- 
tors. All the horses I have seen entered were a poor lot, and 
so far from being fit for racing, I question if any gentleman in 
Europe or America who valued his turn-out would have ridden 
them either in the Central Park, New York, in Hyde Park, or 
the Bois de Boulogne. 

It must be, however, understood that the failure is not from 
any want of forms and rules, for there is a Turf Club, which 
issues printed regulations on the strictest Newmarket prin- 
ciples, and they are supposed to be carried out to the letter. 

I can give very little information as to what goes on in the 
Mauritius racing world, either in the present or past times. 



84 THE COURSE. [Ch. V. 

I have applied over and over again to some of the principal 
members for such knowledge, who were lavish in promises ; 
but the only result I have attained, after waiting many months, 
is a copy of the aforesaid regulations. So I must perforce draw 
a veil over the racing history of the island, and will only de- 
scribe the field of strife. 

Formerly the races were held in September, then in August, 
and latterly in July ; a more sensible arrangement, as there is 
generally in the last named months a prospect of fine weather, 
without the mid-day heat of the former. For some weeks 
previous to the races great preparations go on. A long row of 
stalls or lodges, and the judges' stand, are erected near the win- 
ning post. The course is put in first rate order ; confectioners 
lay in ample stocks of eatables and drinkables, not forgetting 
ice ; milliners and dressmakers are at work night and day 
to — spare your blushes, ladies, I will not dare to intrude on 
such sacred ground. On that head I will confine myself to 
describing only the brilliant results when you dazzle our be- 
wildered eyes on the long prepared-for day. Meetings of the 
Turf Club, bettings, watching the horses cantering round 
the field on early mornings and showing off their paces, and 
so on, till the eventful Monday, the first day of the races, 
arrives. 

From daylight every street is crowded with loads of chairs, 
tables, benches, and stands. Private carriages are driven up 
and left horseless within the cordon near the loges. Tents rise 
on the surrounding eminences as by magic, flags fly, tomtoms 
beat, the whole city is in a ferment. One lege is set apart for 
the governor, another for the council, mayor, officers of the' 
regiment, &c. 

By 1 1 o'clock knots of anxious and horsey-looking men may 
be seen near the betting stand ; horses may be heard neighing 
in the distance, the loges and carriages begin to fill, all is con- 
fusion worse confounded, everyone rushing madly about, not a 
calm face visible. Men, women, and children, horses and dogs, 
swell the crowd on the course ; the wretched police, sweltering 
under the brilliant sun in their closely buttoned cloth coats, 
hoarse with their efforts to clear it. 

Up goes the Eoyal standard, a carriage dashes along, and 
his Excellency and lady are ushered into their lege. 



Ch. v.] THE MAURITIAN NEWMARKET. 85 

Vehicles of every description set down their gorgeous bur- 
dens, and the whole place is soon a flutter of ribbons, silks, and 
muslins. ' Way there,' and on come the prancing horses led 
by their jockeys and owners, with difficulty soothed into an 
equable frame of mind fit for their duties in the Eabel of 
sounds around them. 

Headlong goes the crowd at last. The course is clear even 
of the inevitable old woman who will go every way but the 
nearest off, and the howling dog pursued by the whole police 
force. The jockeys and saddles properly weighed and weighted, 
' Are you ready?' responded to, and the magic ' Off! ' uttered, and 
away they go. A great silence falls on the assembled multitude, 
till the horses begin to turn towards the winning post, when a 
gradual hum steals through the silence, and it ends in a roar 
of applause as the winner comes in, though I believe not more 
than a third of the multitudes present know when the horses 
do run. The jockeys return to be weighed, and all the forms 
usual on such occasions in the mother country are gone through. 
The jockeys (save the mark, for only one I have seen who 
knew anything about riding) are dressed in such fantastic 
colours, it is enough to make the quietest horse shy when he 
is mounted, in astonishment at such a flutter of silks and 
ribands. 

The gentlemen who keep private carriages appear to take 
more pride in their horses than the racing community in theirs ; 
and till a better system of stabling and training is adopted, the 
Mauritian Newmarket will be ever at a low ebb. It has one 
good side, it is profitable to trade, and is a general holiday and 
festival, and where there is such a lack of amusement, I do 
not wonder at its being kept up. I will turn, then, to the 
pleasantest part of the affair — the loges, where are the fashion 
and beauty of the island. The French ladies, and the English 
who follow French fashions, certainly dress with exquisite 
taste. From the fluttering lace above the chignon (or water- 
fall, as we call it in Yankee-land) down to the points of their 
Canots' boots, or the tips of their dainty Jouvin or Boudier's 
gloves, all is rich, well chosen, harmonious; only to a Northerner's 
eye, a leeile, too rich for out-of-door costume. 

There are generally three or four races, and by 4 or 5 o'clock 
all is over until Wednesday, when much the same programme 



86 THE NATIVES. [Ch. V. 

is gone through, except that there is not such a large concourse 
of people as on the first and last days. 

With the single exception of New Year's day, Saturday, the 
third day of the races, is the grand holiday for all classes and 
colours. Peons, cooks, household servants, claim a release from 
work, the two latter but too often regardless of Monsieiu: or 
Madame's entreaties to be home in time to get dinner ready. 
Lucky is the housekeeper who has this day taken the jire- 
caution to have that meal cooked beforehand. 

From gunfire at dawn of day every inlet to the town swarms 
with carts and carrioles, literally crammed with Indian women 
and children ; the men walking alongside, and all dressed in 
a supei'abundance of extra finery. They come in from the 
villages and estates. 

The first point of attraction is the bazaar, and thither I also 
went for household purposes. I confess that bad beef and worse 
mutton (the fare in the market on that day) had less charms for 
me than watching the busy scene around. Outside the gates 
stood rows of little carts, drawn by sleek-coated donkeys, their 
headgear adorned with flowers. These were filled with very 
small Indian children, put there to keep them out of the 
crowd, while pater and materfamilias were having a gossip 
within the gates. Each cart was a picture. Such a number 
of grave, self-possessed atoms of humanity I never saw. Every 
one of them in a new costume, glittering with jewellery, their 
bright black eyes sparkling with anticipated delight, but un- 
like European children — nearly all silent. 

Inside all was bustle and gaiety. Wherever Indian delicacies 
were sold, there mirth was rife — everybody laughing, joking, 
bargaining, eating, and gossiping in a Babel of dialects. All 
was hurry and fun, as the bazaar closes early on that day, and 
woe-betide the housekeeper that neglects to send to market 
early. Every bit of fruit is swept off, either by customers in 
haste to go to the Champ de Mars, or by the vendors, who hope 
to realise larger profits by selling it on the race ground. 

Here and there a grave couple are seen smoking and telling 
their adventures since their last meeting, and if you want 
their wares you must wait till the speech is finished before 
they will answer you. Commend me to a group of Malabar 
women out for a spree, for gossiping. If it be true that out of 



ch. v.] citadel hill. 87 

the ten measures of speech given by the Grods, women got nine, 
it is quite certain that the Indian fair sex appropriated seven 
of them. Their tones are so sharp and high, that any stranger 
would suppose them quarrelling. 

Between seven and eight o'clock, up Bourbon, Church, and 
Corderie Streets, that run direct from the bazaar to the Champ 
de Mars, goes a stream of coloured people of all nations. 

The grave, stout Arab, generally in a carriage drawn by a 
good pair of horses, with his little boys, in beautifully gold- 
embroidered robes and caps (no Arab woman is ever visible 
in Mauritius) ; the Parsee in long white dress and singular tall 
cap, hollow at the top — and even he has a smile on his stern 
handsome face, and thousands of Indians of different races, 
most of them in native costume ; but a few indulging in coats, 
particularly old cast-off soldiers' red coats, with a yellow or 
white waist cloth and bright head dress, the ends sticking out 
horn-fashion, looking quite happy and unconscious that a coat 
requires a nether garment. The stout, heavy Malagash, small 
Creole Indian, pig-eyed Chinaman, French and English Creoles, 
and American, English, and French, 'pur sang, all have repre- 
sentatives at this Mauritian carnival. 

The centre of the Champ de Mars is devoted to other 
amusements than racing. Swings, merry-go-rounds, greased 
poles, even Aunt Sally has found her way there. Look down 
on this varied scene from one of the surrounding eminences, 
and you get a sight almost unique in the civilised world. 

This vast plain is lined on two sides with pleasant looking 
houses, every window and garden overflowing with visitors, the 
hill at the upper end covered to its summit with tents and 
booths. The Citadel Hill, which overlooks it, is crowded with 
pedestrians, and the different streets that diverge from it 
at its foot swarm with carriages and people going and coming. 
Bacchus and Comus reign supreme. In every corner are 
Indians vending indescribable confectionary, eagerly devoured. 
Immense baskets of fruit and pistaches disappear, and oceans 
of lemonade and other not so innocuous drinks. 

Between the races may be seen a dense crowd, and in its 
centre three Nautch girls performing their dances and singing 
songs unfit for ears polite, but luckily in the Hindoo tongue, to 
the great delight of the circling faces. They are accompanied 



88 THE NAUTCH DANCE. [Ch. V. 

by five musicians, with fiddle, cymbals, and drums fastened 
to the waist by cloth girdles. The girls were fantastically 
dressed in bright-coloured muslin skirts and very short bodices, 
showing the plump brown skin between the two, and the long 
scarf-like ' Capra ' floating round them, striped and trimmed 
with gold lace. Their faces were painted, and anklets and 
wristlets encircled with rows of silver bells that tinkled with 
every movement. An old fakir went with the girls, dressed in 
ragged coat and patched trowsers, and a cap covered with 
strings of beads that hung to his waist, and his face hideously 
streaked with white paint. Between the dances he sang and 
told stories, which, judging from the warm reception they re- 
ceived from the audience, must have been of a very questionable 
character ; and it is well known the accredited story-tellers, 
whose name is Legion, have a repertoire that beats Eugene Sue 
or Paul de Kock out and out. 

After the most indescribable postures and gestures, one of 
the girls would throw herself on the neck of some bachelor 
bystander, who was obliged to give her money before he could 
make his escape from the jeers of the crowd. These wretched 
women are set apart from childhood for the Nautch, under the 
charge of the ugly old fakir, and are obliged to work very hard, 
and to give all their earnings to him. 

On this day the real fun is not with the horse races, which 
few out of a certain set care about, but with the pony, sack, 
and donkey races. In the former generally one at least dis- 
charges its rider, and makes off to the hills, when the chevy 
that follows is the best part of the race. The soldiers most 
frequently contest the sack races ; but the greatest fun is when 
the donkeys run, in which the pretty little animals, mostly 
ridden by boys, are as erratic in their movements as their 
brethren in other countries, and few arrive at the goal. 

The stalls are filled with the elite of Mauritian society from 
the Grovernor downwards, dressed in the very acme of Parisian 
fashion. Behind these stalls are refreshment rooms, where every 
delicacy is procurable, and a plentiful supply of iced drinks, most 
acceptable with the thermometer at 90° even at the beginning 
of August during the day, though it falls to 75° in the even- 
ings. 

Numbers of carriages draw up here beneath the stalls, and 



Ch. v.] colour. 89 

offer a curious sight to English eyes. Almost every one con- 
tains a party of splendidly dressed women ; and in among them 
you stroll, as being one of the most attractive features of the 
course, and more accessible than the fair dames in the stalls. 
Presently you see a delicate, mignon, white-gloved hand on the 
side of an irreproachable turn out ; the tiniest soup^on of a lace 
bonnet and a resplendent silk dress, and with pardonable curi- 
osity you approach nearer, trusting to meet a face to match 
the exquisite toilette, when lo ! a pair of bright black eyes 
look round at you, set in a face of some shade of brown or 
black, with a thick down of violet powder on it, and you at 
once collapse. 

Colour certainly carries the day on the rape ground. The 
sports generally continue till quite dark on this day, but 
not so late as formerly. The Indians now take advantage of 
the trains, which are altered to a later hour on race days, so 
that the great influx from the country is obliged to leave the 
ground earlier than they otherwise would. 

Those who do not go to the Champ de Mars, amuse themselves 
by watching the carriages drive home through the city, and 
doubtless commenting thereon ; the tired owners glad to get 
home, the fair sex to dream of the boxes of gloves lost and won 
on the races — well for them if paterfamilias has not to muse on 
heavier losses. 



CHAPTER VI. 

THE EPIDEMIC OF MAURITIUS. 

On Fevers generally — Malarious Fever in 1866 — Distress in the Districts — 
Symptoms of the Fever — Complications — Effects of Quinine — Eemedies — The 
Fever, Malarious — Causes of Fever— Spores — Ague Plants — Causes of Malaria 
at Port Louis — At Grand Eiver — The Lowlands — Destruction of Trees— Sad 
Scenes — Funerals — The Western Cemetery — Fete des Morts — Cemetery of Bois 
Marchand. 

Fair isle of the sea, who that views thee could dream 
That thy beauty like apples of Sodom doth lie ; 

That no life-giving draughts are supplied by thy stream, 
And pestilence hangs 'neath thy bright fairest sky ! 



Fevers, once almost unknown in Mauritius, are now fast be- 
coming its bane ; particularly since the great increase of the 
coloured population by immigration from India. 

The Indian races have a well-known proclivity to febrile dis- 
eases. The hundreds constantly arriving from the worst hot- 
beds of malarious disorders, bring with them the germs of the 
different fevers prevalent in India, which favourable circum- 
stances develop from time to time into activity. The true 
Bombay or bilious typhoid fever, so frequently fatal, especially 
when followed by its deadly ally dysentery, is supposed to have 
been introduced about thirty years since, and at intervals has 
broken out on different estates. Eemittent fevers have been 
constant in the island, and typhoid, or enteric fever, has become 
almost endemic in Port Louis. 

In 1863 a contagious fever amongst the Indian labourers 
carried off numbers of victims ; but the best medical authorities 
state that no case of intermittent fever had occurred for twenty 
years till the year 1866. 

With all these elements of fever ripe for development, aided 
by peculiar atmospheric influences, and aggravated by a combi- 
nation of malarious causes (to be explained later), it is little 



Ch. VI.] MALARIOUS FEVER. 91 

wonder that the intermittent fever of 1866 changed in the 
early hot months of 1867 to the virulent epidemic form it then 
assumed. 

Malarious fever was rife in Black Eiver, Grande and Petite 
Riviere since 1866, and then spread to Port Louis, Pample- 
mousses, Flacq, and other low-lying districts, from certain 
circumstances peculiarly favourable to its progress, and took 
an intensity and deadliness unparalleled in Colonial history, its 
prevalence increasing as the means of resistance grew less and 
less, and the death rate attaining the high figure of 240 per 
diem in the city of Port Louis alone. 

A great difference between the epidemic of 1863 and that of 
1867 was the constant relapses : in that, it was death or cure ; 
in this, the disorganisation engendered repeated attacks, assisted 
by the scarcity of good food and water from the long drought. 

In every district dispensaries were established for supplying 
food and medicines to the poor sufferers. It was a difficult 
task to provide for the thousands whose religious prejudices 
prevented them from partaking of other than certain meats ; 
and where whole families were stricken down, it often occurred 
that there was not one strong enough to go the distance to 
fetch the help held out. From shortness of hands, the Grovern- 
ment was unable to send visitors from hut to hut, and 
hundreds died from sheer inanition. 

Honour to those who were thoughtful enough at such a time 
of trouble to send in a quantity of deer shot in the woods, 
which gave many a dish of broth to the poor wretches who 
could take no other meat I 

A total failure of quinine at a most critical moment proved 
a great source of anxiety to the medical men, as to that alone 
would many of the most obstinate cases yield. A marked con- 
trast between the Bombay fever and this epidemic was, that 
whereas this would generally cede to the effect of quinine, the 
symptoms of the other would be aggravated by it. 

The commencement of the fever was rarely without premoni- 
tory symptoms. Generally a day or two previously the patient 
suffered from languor, lassitude, and a feeling of general in- 
disposition ; but the relapses were frequently very sudden, 
without any apparent exciting cause. 

The complications in most of the cases of the intermittent 

H 



92 SYMPTOMS, OF FEVER. [Ch. VI. 

fever were manifold, and depended on the disposition of the 
patient to any slumbering disease, and by far the greater numbei 
of deaths occurred from the subtle agency of some other 
malady combining with the fever. 

In most of the cases of bilious remittent, the remission was 
well marked, and lasted several hours ; but in the intermittent, 
when it had assumed the most virulent form, the remission was 
scarcely perceivable, and disappeared, but very slowly, after 
days of active medical treatment. 

In the earlier months of the epidemic, whilst the treatment 
was yet uncertain, numbers were carried off by congestion of 
the brain. The cold or ague stage rarely appeared at the first 
attack, but was seldom absent more or less in all relapses. It 
was ushered in by languor and chill, and a sensation as of a 
stream of cold water running down the back ; the skin was 
shrivelled and the papillae prominent (vulg. goose skin) ; the 
teeth chattered, the nails became blue, and the whole frame was 
shaken. The countenance appeared anxious, features shrunken 
and pale, eyes dull and hollow, respiration hurried and op- 
pressed ; great irritability ; frequent hysteria or delirium, and 
a general feeling as if death must ensue. 

The duration of this stage was from half an hour to three or 
four hours ; it was only to be subdued when severe by heaping 
on blankets, bottles of hot water, hot drinks, and other active 
treatment, when it was gradually succeeded by the hot state, or 
retiction. The surface of the body became dry and intensely 
hot, generally accompanied by sickness at the stomach, and in- 
clination to vomit ; a bounding pulse that rose far above the 
natural standard ; the mouth parched with excessive thirst ; 
great restlessness ; fulness, or violent throbbing in the head, 
and frequently delirium at intervals. This stage rarely lasted 
less than three hours, and when at its worst, often extended to 
thirty-six hours, but the ordinary time was from three to 
six hours. 

Then followed the sweating period. Slowly a little mois- 
ture spread over the breast and neck, gradually extending over 
the whole body ; pulse and breathing became natural, headache 
and thirst abated, and the patient felt for the moment as if 
suddenly restored to health, so great was the relief; a mis- 
take but too quickly rectified, as exhaustion utter and com- 



Ch. VI.] DEATHS OF NATIVES. 93 

plete succeeded ; profuse sweats, necessitating frequent changes 
of personal and bed linen ; and to prevent collapse, broths or 
other nourishment, and even wine, were obliged to be given 
constantly in small quantities. 

Numbers of Indians died in the exhaustion following the 
fever. Their nature and habits at all times disincline them 
from over exerting themselves ; and the system was so prostrated, 
and the disgust to food was so great, that even a strong-minded 
white man could scarcely be roused sufficiently to force him- 
self to take nourishment. It is not then surprising that the 
Indian, who rarely fears death, should prefer sinking out of 
life to taking the trouble to rise and eat. 

I know this as a fact from my own domestics, that they could 
be with the greatest difficulty induced to take food or medicine, 
unless I administered it myself. They said, ' Life was not worth 
the trouble of exerting themselves to eat.' 

The above were the ordinary symptoms, but besides these, 
on many occasions, asthenia characterised the case, either re- 
sulting favourably or otherwise in patients where the heart had 
lost its contracting power from extreme debility. Delirium, 
insomnia, and other cephalic symptoms, were frequent at first; 
gastric irritation with gastro-hepatic derangement and vomiting, 
latterly. Loss of appetite, nausea, and tenderness on pressure 
over the epigastrium and right hypocondrium, appeared more 
or less in every case of intermittent fever. 

At the commencement of the epidemic fulness of the liver 
and spleen did not exist, but after repeated attacks of fever, 
derangement of both were almost sure to follow. Dropsy of 
the feet and legs was another painful consequence, particularly 
in those who had taken immoderate and incessant doses of 
quinine. The eyesight and hearing were also affected by the 
same cause. 

The tongue was usually coated with a thick, yellowish-brown 
or creamy, and sometimes a black, fur. The creamy appearance 
often remained, notwithstanding treatment, for a considerable 
time after the disease abated ; the fact of the edges of the 
organ being redder, and of a more healthy hue, alone indi- 
cating the ending of the fever. 

For some time diarrhoea and dysentery were rarely compli- 
cated with the fever ; but these pests of hot climates increased 



94 REMEDIES. [Ch. VI. 

in like proportion with it, and during its decline, and even to 
the present time, it is very prevalent. 

Frequently the whole intestinal tract from the mouth down- 
wards was ulcerated, and then no remedies were of any avail. 
Water on the brain, inflammation of lungs or stomach, and 
Bright's chronic disease, were also adjuncts of the fever, modi- 
fied according to different temperaments after the height of 
the epidemic had passed. 

Cinchona and its preparations administered in excess will 
often establish some local disease. If in a perfect state of 
health, and taken in small doses, no obvious effects are produced, 
save perhaps some slight stomachic derangement, a little thirst 
and temporary excitement of appetite ; but if the dose be in- 
creased, the alimentary canal becomes disordered, indicated by 
nausea, vomiting, thirst, and constipation, and a febrile state is 
set up, or manifested by the excitement of the vascular system ; 
the tongue is dry, and the cerebral and spinal organs become 
deranged, as is shown by throbbing headaches and giddiness. 

As a prophylactic, quinine is seldom used with success. 
Persons who have taken this drug in the hopes of escaping 
the fever have, almost invariably, been attacked sooner or 
later. 

To my knowledge several instances of death occurred from 
the system being overdosed with quinine before the fever had 
appeared. 

The best prophylactic measures are : clothing neither too 
heavy nor too light ; avoiding night or damp air ; occasional 
purgatives, a good regular diet, and a very moderate use of 
stimulants. 

The most successful treatment was by purgative medicines, 
James' powder, and calomel ; mustard poultices, or mustard 
foot-baths ; and quinine on the subsidence of the fever in 
moderate doses. With a sluggish or dormant liver the use of 
calomel and emetics was imperative, as in these cases 
experience has long shown that quinine is not only wasted 
but injurious unless purgative medicines have been pre- 
viously used. 

From four to eight grains of quinine carefully injected into 
the subcutaneous areolar tissue has often produced beneficial 
results. 



Ch. VI.] REMEDIES AND IRE A TMENT. 95 

According to Dr. Murehead, one draclim of liquor arsenicatis 
may be used as an equivalent to twenty grains of quinine. 
Such a dose can scarcely be given without risk (albeit the 
doctors gave from thirty to fifty grains sometimes in their 
prescriptions), therefore he suggests that a relapse might be 
prevented by quinine, and moderate doses of arsenic be given 
to complete a cure. 

In intermittent fevers, the febrile exacerbations are of much 
longer duration than in the remittent. The object then is to 
shorten the period of exacerbation and lengthen that of re- 
mission. This maybe done by saline and effervescent draughts, 
cold drinks, iced water in small quantities, bits of ice in the 
mouth, lemonade, cream of tartar water, and cold applications 
to the head. 

As soon as the body is cov^ered with perspiration, the bed and 
body clothes should be entirely changed, taking care not to 
weary the sufferer, and clear chicken broth be given at intervals, 
not of long duration. 

Intermittent fever is rarely thoroughly cured without a re- 
currence of the disease. Hundreds, supposed to have been 
cured, and in apparently good health for months, have had re- 
lapses without any perceptible cause. 

Experience teaches us to regard with great caution what is 
called a perfect cure, as it is well known that persons who 
have suffered severely from this fever in tropical climates, on 
returning to Europe and elsewhere, have been attacked again 
with the identical fever peculiar to the districts where it was 
contracted, leaving no doubt that the germ of the disease was 
carried for a long time in the system. 

A stranger fact is, that people who had passed unscathed 
through months of the fever in Mauritius, and then left for 
England or France, congratulating themselves on their escape, 
had sharp attacks of it some time after their arrival. 

It is well known that the Madagascar fever remains in the 
system for years, is in fact almost ineradicable after having 
suffered from it severely in that island. 

The cases are very rare where no relapses have taken place, 
and still rarer those who have escaped altogether, though such 
lucky fellows are to be found ; but they are like ' angek' visits, 
very few, and very far between ! ' 



96 CA USES. [Ch. VI. 

In the case of persons just recovering from fever arriving at 
any place where it had not declared itself, the disease rarely 
spread from infection. 

I may give an instance of this, at Creve Coeur, where the 
Kev. Mr. Hobbs and his family reside. The estate lies very 
high, and he constantly received invalids into his house, most 
of whom are indebted to the kind attentions they received 
there for a return to health ; yet neither he nor any of his 
family caught the fever. 

Creve Coeur, and a neighbouring estate, the ' Lucia,' are both 
elevated, and free from dense clusters of trees ; and the free 
ventilation prevents the accumulation of water in stagnant 
pools and their emanations. Whilst the population in the 
surrounding estates was almost decimated, these places nearly 
escaped, from their favourable natural position. 

The opinion of all the medical faculty in the island is, that 
the epidemic now waning is malarious, and of the intermittent 
form, generally at first distinct, but essentially malarious. 

Everywhere one heard the questions, ' What have been the 
predisposing causes of the epidemic ? and what are the existing 
causes of its long continuance ? ' 

Whatever may be the difference in opinion as to the origin 
and modes of propagation, all agree that certain states of the 
air favour the disposition of the body to receive intermittent 
and remittent fevers, and rivet them into the constitution, 
vviiich baffle all attempts at complete cure, and induce a tendency 
to relapse from apparently slight causes. 

The concurrence of cold with a moist atnaosphere ; heavy 
rains after long dry weather ; weakness of body, whether owing 
to poor and unwholesome diet, fatigue, severe evacuations, 
or previous diseases; anxiety of mind ; inactivity, intemperance, 
or restlessness, all increase susceptibility ; while hope, con- 
fidence, cheerfulness, whatever can excite mental energy, 
lessen it. 

Differing as intermittent and remittent fevers do in many 
points, particularly in their rate of mortality, they yet agree 
in their origin as occasioned by effluvia emanating from putrid, 
stagnant waters, swampy low grounds, and animal matter. It 
is found in the tropics that malarious diseases are most common 
in the seasons succeeding heavy rains, when the temperature is 



Ch. VL] MICROSCOPIC DIAGNOSIS. 97 

high, and where the surrounding country abounds with jungles, 
and insect life is rife. 

It is now well ascertained that gases, emanating from decom- 
posed vegetable and animal matter, generate confervaceous as 
well as diatomaceous plants, such as Tetraspora Nostoc and all 
the genera Agaria. 

These cryptogams are never found in dry warm situations, 
but where it is clamp and warm, and they develope themselves 
especially where organic matter is in a state of putrefaction. 

Some of these plants live on the surface of stagnant w^aters, 
but very many on the surface of low lands. Others are para- 
sites on plants, which they destroy, as is shown in the diseases 
of the vine and potatoe. 

In Oidium Tuukeri the spores are so small that Ehrenburg, 
the great microscopist, was scarcely able to detect the form of a 
thousand of them, grouped together, with the highest power of 
his microscope. Our knowledge of the elementary structure 
of organisms is exclusively based on microscopic discoveries, 
and modern physiology is the result. Organic chemistry has 
materially participated in the development, but the microscope 
excels the chemical re-agents in practical usefulness, both as to 
precision and facility, and has firmly established its superiority 
in hystiology and physiology. 

Through the medium of these fundamental branches it has 
benefited medical science at large, and of late has lent material 
aid as well as diagnosis. 

Sometimes it may delude and give rise to erroneous in- 
ferences, but the chances are in such a case it is the performer 
or an imperfect instrument that is in fault. 

It more frequently reveals the true state of elementary 
structure, and its derivation from the normal state, and thus 
aids as well as corrects pathological knowledge. 

In a long-continued series of observations, in cases of persons 
who have died of fever, when particular organs and their se- 
cretions were submitted to minute microscopic examination, it 
was almost invariably found that the membrane lining the 
stomach was covered with a multitude of very minute plants, 
closely resembling the Alga, Cryptococcus Cereviske. These 
parasites often covered the whole intestinal tract ; some were 
perceptible on the surface of the lungs, and some could be 



98 WA TER. [Ch. VI. 

detected in the blood. In the latter, it sometimes happened 
that there were epithelial cells, apparently containing fatty and 
pigment molecules. 

On living patients, in the advanced stage of the fever, 
they may be detected, by one well acquainted with the mi- 
croscope, in the substance which is formed at the corners of the 
mouth and eyes. 

Some of the parasites appear quite hollow, others contain 
nuclei and spores, and others show cell-articulations. 

In the secretions of entirely healthy persons they cannot be 
detected. 

Water taken up in well-cleaned basins out of some isolated 
pools at Grrand Eiver, or where its waters mingle with the sea, 
and subjected to the rays of the sun till stagnant, developed a 
green superficial film. Under the microscope this film showed 
plants so nearly related in shape and structure to those in and 
on the different organs of the human body, that there is no 
doubt of their being of the same genera, and it is equally 
certain that they were exciting causes of the epidemic. 

Myriads of these plants were generated all over the island ; 
and when matured, the spores became free, and were taken ap 
by the wind and carried from place to place. These spores 
were thus inhaled, and if the stomach was not in a morbid 
condition, they would pass out without effecting or undergoing 
any change, or be destroyed by the gastric juices ; if, on the 
contrary, it contained material highly susceptible of fermenta- 
tion (which the universal rice and vegetable diet here tends to), 
the spores would germinate and grow, produce inflammation, 
and fever readily ensued. 

Unlike phsenogamous plants, which absorb carbonic acid gas, 
depositing the carbon in the plant, and throwing off" the oxygen 
into the atmosphere, all the lower class of cryptogams absorb 
oxygen, and consequently give out carbon, thus vitiating the 
atmosphere we breathe. 

It may not be out of place to mention here, that the physio- 
logical effects of the cinchona bark, and its alkaloids, on vege- 
tables, animals and men, should be borne in mind, as the con- 
nection of these effects with the therapeutical influence of the 
bark in fever were until lately inexplicable. 

Decandolle states that leaves of plants immersed in an in- 
fusion of pale bark were dried in twenty-four hours ; and others. 



Ch. VI.] CAUSES OF AGUE. c^c^ 

plunged into a solution of quinia water, presented evidences 
of contraction in from six to eight hours. 

It is evident, therefore, why this remedy, when used in 
malarious fevers, acts so beneficially. By its contraction, or 
process of withering, it destroys the fast growth of the poisonous 
fungoids in the system, and, if there is no complication, eradi- 
cates the disease. 

This fever is only contagious under certain circumstances. 
Knowing how it is germinated, it will be readily perceived that 
when a person is attacked with it, in damp unventilated places, 
it follows as a matter of course, that from the moment the 
spores in or on the patient become free, all the inmates of the 
same place, and especially when they are crowded together 
and filthy in their habits, will be subjected to the disease ; and 
in so far only is it communicable. 

Since writing the above, I met with an interesting article on 
' The Causes of Ague,' and as it bore so forcibly on what I had 
written, I transcribe some of its paragraphs at length. 

'The fertile source of desolation and disease consists of in- 
calculable myriads of microscopic cells, suspended in the at- 
mosphere over waste, marshy, and fen districts. They are 
minute oblong cells, single or aggregate, and having a distinct 
nucleus, with a clear interspace, apparently empty, between it 
and the cell wall. They are of the algoid type, strongly re- 
sembling the Palmella^ and are consequently amongst the very 
lowest organisms known. Sometimes several of these cells or 
spores are contained in an outer cell or wall, or delicate in- 
vesting membrane, to form a plant. 

' Of these " ague plants " is formed the greyish film where- 
ever damp, black earth is turned up and exposed to the sun. 
These spores or minute seeds (germinating cells) rise into the 
air, carrying pestilence with them.^ There are several species 
of the " ague plant," which have been called Gremiasma, from 
the Grreek for earth, and the word miasma. The white, and a 
yellowish green variety, occur usually in a non-calcareous soil, 
and produce agues of but slight intensity, and are the only 
ones known in England. There are also red, green, and lead- 



' These spores may be found, I believe, in the expectoration of people seized 
witli ague. 



loo THE MARSH DEMON. [Ch. VI. 

coloured " ague plants," and one singular species, the " Gemi- 
asma protuberosa,''^ which has larger spores, " and consists of 
groups of jelly-like protuberances." 

' These latter kind habitually occur in rich calcareous soils, 
and produce fevers of a dangerous and congestive character. 

' The cells with their spores produce visible incrustations of 
mould on the surface of recently exposed marsh earth. The 
danger from these growths is greatest in a hot dry season 
following a wet one. The wetter and hotter, the worse foa- 
man, and the better for malaria. 

' The marsh demon is verily " The pestilence that walketh in 
darkness." It seems almost certain that the spores of the " ague 
plant " only rise with the evening dews. Microscopically tested, 
the day air is free from those organisms. 

' In different parts of the world these cryptogamic spores rise 
in the night mists to definite heights. 

' In the United States they seldom rise from above thirty-five 
to sixty-five feet above the low levels ; in England, not more 
than from fifteen to thirty feet. 

' These spores are found throughout these vapours, but do not 
extend beyond them, and are found in the greatest abundance 
in their upper strata. 

' Intermittent or ague fever has actually been produced in 
men by causing them to inhale the spores of these algae. 

' It has long been known that malaria is movable by the 
wind. The spores of the " ague plants " having risen and be- 
come entangled in the mist, spores, mist, and all are blown 
along together, far perhaps from the place of germination. 

' This fact admits of considerable practical application in 
tropical climates, where the wind usually blows for a long 
time from the same quarter. It is easy to see how a volume of 
vapour or fog, laden with its deadly burden of poison-cells, may 
roll up and hang suspended on the side of a hill, towards which 
a wind blows across an adjacent marsh. 

' Instances have occurred where the poisonous vapour has been 
blown over a hill, and deposited on the other side, to the un- 
mitigated disgust of the inhabitants, who imagined themselves 
secure from their pestilential neighbour.' 

The above article applies peculiarly to Mauritius, as I shall 
endeavour to show by a slight description of the numerous hot- 



Ch. VL] malaria. loi 

beds of the ' ague plants ' with which the island abounds at the 
present day. 

I will begin with the very focus of malaria, Port Louis, and 
mention a few of the numerous causes of infection in that city 
alone. 

The foul streams flowing through it in all directions are, two- 
thirds of the year, almost stagnant ; the other third they are 
swollen by the torrential rains, and bear along masses of vege- 
table and animal matter from the hills and Indian camps, which, 
as the waters subside, lie festering in the sun, poisoning the 
atmosphere. 

The emanations from the open drains, the imperfect drainage 
of the houses, and the defective method of disinfecting the 
night-soil, load the air with mephitic vapours. 

The gradually filling-up of the east end of the harboui', from 
the mud constantly pouring into it, and the tide not being 
strong enough to wash away the impurities that lodge in the 
muddy bottom, adds its quota to the malaria. 

The low shores to the west of the city are only covered at 
high tides, and are strewn with decayed sea- weed and filth, 
washed in from the shipping. 

Between Port Louis and Fort William lies a swamp, that 
receives into its rank vegetation the streams that flow from 
the cemeteries and another swampy land at the back of them. 
These cemeteries contain in themselves a very sufficient cause of 
malaria. The emanations from them are at times most deadly, 
owing to the circumstances that the dead are not interred 
deeply enough, and the loose earth and coral which cover 
them permit the escape of the gases evolved by their decompo- 
sition. 

It has been frequently remarked that the health of the city 
has invariably suffered when the miasma from its western side 
has been blown over it. 

Between Port Louis and Grand River are low lands, prolific 
in the germs of malaria. After heavy rain the Grand Eiver 
swells, and receives into its floods filth of every kind, which is 
swept down, or deposited all over its course, or left in pools to 
decompose in the sun. 

Near its entrance to the sea, where the waste water spreads 
out over the wide embouchure made by the torrents of .ages. 



I02 THE SPORE-LEVEL. [Ch. VI. 

and the rapidity of the flood abates, it has not power to sweep 
away all the debris, and part always remains filling up its 
channel, and impeding its proper egress to the ocean. The 
whole of this district, and the neighbouring one of Petite 
Riviere, lies low. 

Just before the fever broke out at Petite Riviere, there was 
a large camp of Indians located there, reeking with indescrib- 
able filth. The huts crowded to excess, men and beasts herded 
together ; and with the ordinary dirty habits of the men, and 
the scarcity of water in that district during the severe drought at 
the end of 1866, the wonder is the fever left any of them alive. 

Very few indeed were spared ; and it was a melancholy sight, 
at the end of 1867, to pass by the camp. Here and there you 
met a poor squalid wretch, or a few weakly children ; but 
nearly all the huts were destroyed that had contained whole 
families, now swept away, and the few that remained shut up — 
it looked like a city of the dead, after teeming with busy noisy 
life as it did some months previously. 

The ill effects of allowing the Indians to wash their clothes 
and bathe in the running streams, thus polluting the waters in 
their whole course, was well shown during the epidemic, as 
Death with unceasing energy stalked amongst those who lived 
near such waters, and used them unfiltered. 

' The marshes of Pamplemousses and West Savanne ; the 
moist lowlands of Petite Savanne ; the shallow tidal lagoons 
west of Black River ; and all the low coast-line receiving the 
drainage from the central watershed, gave out their poisonous 
exhalations.' 

During 1867 some parts of the island entirely escaped; most 
probably lying above the spore level, or fever line, which I see 
Dr. Reid, the chief medical officer, places at 600 feet above the 
level of the sea. 

In his report on the fever, he mentions a curious fact about 
the spread of the fever into a section of Black River and Savanne, 
always known as the healthiest part of Mauritius. Between 
these districts and the infected ones lies a barrier of forests 
and woody elevations. He writes, ' During the first week of 
January 1868, occurred a hurricane, the main force of which 
was from the SE. and E., in that extremity of the island^ 
sufficiently strong to spoil the forests of their leaves, and make 



Ch. VI.] CHANGE IN CLIMATE. 103 

gaps in this barrier of wooded highlands, and thus carried in 
the fever germs from the part of Black Eiver, where fever was 
rife, to the hitherto healthy inhabitants.' 

I could add greatly to these details ; but those I have men- 
tioned are sufficient to show that, with all these existing power- 
ful agents to malaria lying dormant, and so many spore-beds 
waiting for peculiar atmospheric influences to set them free, 
the heavy rains., and then subsequent excessive drought followed 
by hurricanes, would act on them with fatal certainty, and thus 
strike the whole island with this terrible plague, converting, 
for the time being, the once ' Grem of the Ocean ' into a very 
pest-house. 

Dr. Reid also mentions in the same report a circumstance 
which would seem to corroborate the fact alluded to in p. 120, 
as to the effects of the cinchona, as stated by Decandolle. 

He says, ' The waters of the few remaining woodland marshes 
of Mauritius, the Mare aux Vacoas, aux Jones, and Bassin 
Blanc, are deeply tinged and impregnated with tannin and 
resinous matters, and the inhabitants around and near these 
marshes entirely escaped the fever.' 

He suggests, and very properly, ' May not this exemption be 
due to the tannin, and other products of the debris of the sur- 
rounding forest, being present in those localities, and prevent- 
ing the fever germs from flourishing therein ? May not the 
removal from the humus and marshes of the lowlands of 
similar substances, which they received when the island was 
well wooded, have been one of the changes which prepared them 
for the reception and development of malarious germs ? ' 

I do not doubt it ; and it is most likely owing to the wither- 
ing effects of the different barks in solution, that prevented the 
germination of the fever-spores in those marshes, and caused 
the consequent immunity of the neighbouring inhabitants from 
the disease. 

It is well known that the indigenous forests contain many 
trees, the barks of which produce similar effects on fever to 
those of cinchona. 

While on this subject, I may as well mention a great source 
of the changes in climate the Mauritius has undergone, viz. the 
one alluded to by Dr. Eeid — the cutting down of the forests. 

The mania for cane-planting, to the exclusion of nearly 
all other articles of export, has been carried to such an 



I04 A PLEA FOR TREES. [Ch. VI. 

extent, that where once stood magnificent forests, with streams 
running through them, are now wide treeless and waterless 
plains, whenever the frequent droughts occur. 

For a hot climate, I never saw one so denuded of tree life. 
Formerly, in different parts of the city, were trees, affording 
welcome shade to foot-passengers and carriage-horses. But a 
raid was made on the greater part of them by the municipality, 
on the plea that they injured the sewers and pavement, as if 
the open stench-giving gutters did not do fifty times more 
injury. Why, in the Cape, I noticed the finest trees planted 
at the edge of the gutters, which there pour along clean streams 
instead of dirty, and in most tropical climates trees grow in all 
the streets. Oh, Groths and Vandals ! to destroy, ruthlessly, one 
of the Creator's best gifts for the health and comfort of his 
creatures ! 

Here and there one certainly sees clumps of shrubs and under- 
wood about the country ; but these become a harbour for all the 
filth and refuse of the place, and of course when rain falls they 
are muddy nuclei of infection. 

There are endless talkings and suggestions as to what ought 
to be done to bring about a difference in the sanitary 
condition of the island, and it is to be hoped that action will 
follow. 

If stringent measures are not soon taken, the prosperity of 
Mauritius must come to an end. Ships already avoid coming 
here for fear of infection, and all the millions of dollars spent to 
render it the ' half-way house to the East ' for all nations, may 
as well have been flung into the ocean. 

What the Creator made ' very good,' man has all but 
ruined. 

"Where shall we turn, Nature, if in thee 
Danger is masked in beauty — Death in smiles ? 
Here year by year the secret peril spreads, 
Disguised in loveliness its baleful reign ; 
And viewless blight on many a landscape shed, 
Gay with the riches of the South in vain. 

Youth, valour, beauty, oft have felt its power. 
The loved, yet chosen victims ; o'er their lot 
Hath fond affection wept. Each blighted flower 
In turn was loved, and mourned, and is forgot. 

Yet those who perished left a tale of woe 
Meet for as deep a sigh as Pitv can bestow. 



Ch. VI.] FEVER-STRICKEN. 105 

Those who inhabited Port Louis during the terrible mortality 
in 1867 and 1868 will never forget the sad spectacles the city 
presented daily. Fever, fever, was the only word on every lip, 
the only thought in every heart. Mourning and desolation 
everywhere. Scarcely a person visible that did not wear the 
garb of woe. Song and laughter had ceased. 

Port Louis was once remarkable for the number of pianos 
heard in every street in an evening, from the Erard's grand 
and semi-grand to the humblest cottage instrument. 

At this time it was literally ' The daughters of music were 
brought low, and the voice of mourning was heard in the 
streets.' 

Funeral trains were met at every corner. Relays of men 
were kept night and day digging the graves. 

The owners of undertakers' shops that sold mourning, and 
apothecaries, must have made fortunes. The numerous drug- 
gists' shops were so crowded day and night, and so short of 
hands, it was with difficulty medicine could be procured. 
Offices were opened in all directions for the distribution of 
food, medicine, or advice to the destitute ; but all the efforts 
made by the municipality and private charities could not 
keep pace with the strident progress of the wretchedness and 
distress. 

There was no mistaking the appearance of one who had 
suffered : the pallid, drawn features, the skeleton, bloodless 
fingers, as if the bright life-stream had been dried out of them, 
and the slow dragging step, marked but too plainly the 
victims. 

It was distressing to pass through the streets ; in every corner 
was some poor creature, suddenly struck down, and crouching 
on the ground to die. 

In the outskirts of the city and country roads the victims 
were so numerous, that the police and sanitary committees were 
insufficient to succour half the poor wretches, and many died 
by the roadsides before help could be brought to them. 

Near Roche Bois I have seen them lying in groups, dying 
and dead. Not a house, within a radius of half a mile from the 
one I then occupied, had a living person in it, except at a shop 
belonging to three Chinamen, two of whom died later. In 
many cases, as soon as a Malabar got the fever, he would hasten 



io6 A SAD SCENE. [Ch. VI. 

to his house and shut himself in to die ; for such was the fear 
of it, to be attacked was the tocsin of death to him. 

I visited many families, and the scenes I witnessed will 
never be effaced from my memory. A poor Indian, whom I 
had cured for the time being, came and entreated for help to a 
comrade. It was night, and I was tired and had gone to bed ; but 
the poor fellow begged so hard, that I dressed and went with him. 
After a long walk we came to a hut, and as I approached I 
heard groans and lamentations. When I entered, the scene 
baffled all description. A small cocoa-nut oil lamp dimly 
lighted the interior, adding horror to the scene. 

It was inhabited by a man and his wife, with a number of 
children. The mother lay dead in the middle of the hut, the 
man hanging over her in an agony of grief. Her baby, still 
living, was clasped to her heart, and seeking to draw its life- 
sustenance from her cold breast. The other children were all 
stricken with the fever, and in its last stages, past human help. 
Of course all I could I did, but help had come too late to do 
little more than assist in their burial. 

One dreaded to ask the news, as one was quite sure to hear 
of some friend ill, dying or dead, and often buried before you 
knew of it. Parents had to rise from their sick beds to nurse 
their children, and these again had to drag their weary limbs 
to follow a beloved parent to the tomb, though frequently too 
weak even to do that. 

No change of weather seemed to arrest the plague. Intense 
heat or cold, heavy rains or dry, mild calm days, or sharp 
breezes, all were alike fatal. The brightest morn brought no 
more hope than the wildest night. 

For m.onths the death-rate in the city alone averaged nearly 
200 per diem. In every street could be seen the mourning 
weeds outside the doors where death had struck his victim ; and 
this was often the first intelligence you had of the loss of dear 
friends — no time for ceremony then. May I never witness 
again the sad sight of those incessant funerals, slowly wending 
along from morn till night. 

Here was a group of Malabars bearing along some poor 
fellow, preceded by a priest muttering a prayer, and followed by 
a few women bearing a copper dish of rice and fruit, and a jug 
of water, to place on his giave. 



Ch. VI.] FUNERALS. 107 

There comes a slow and stately train with black-plumed 
hearse, and a long line of carriages behind it — one of the rich 
and respected of the land ; anon, a little simple bier, bearing a 
baby's coffin covered with a simple white muslin pall and wreath, 
with perhaps only the father and nurse as mourners; then a white- 
covered hearse, its white plumes and the horses' sweeping 
trappings showing that some fair girl had been cut off in early 
womanhood. 

Occasionally would pass a Chinese funeral, the bier supported 
by stout Malagash bearers, in their long black gowns and flow- 
ing weepers, looking as stolid as if of stone ; a few carioles 
following with Chinamen in them, and a person always preceding 
it, scattering pieces of paper about three inches square, often 
gilt or silvered, all along the road, to scare away evil spirits, 
and prevent their following the corpse to its last resting- 
place. 

To the west of the city lie the European, Arab, Chinese, and 
Lascar cemeteries. At the entrance of the first stands a long 
avenue of the melancholy filaos, fit trees for a burying-ground, 
with the wailing, mournful notes that pass through them witli 
the slightest breath of wind. 

This cemetery is divided into the new and old, and is sur- 
rounded by high stone walls. The latter is so crowded with graves 
and vaults, all placed indiscriminately, that one can scarcely 
walk without treading on them. Shrubs and creepers grow in 
rank confusion over them, and many names are quite obliterated 
by time. I never enter the old part of the cemetery without 
the following lines occurring to me : 

I pray thee lay me not to rest 

Among these mouldering bones ; 
Too heavily the earth is prest 

By all these crowded stones. 

The very air oppresses one. There is no look of quiet repose 
about the place, as is seen in a northern burial-ground. The 
absence of tall trees and shade, and the bright glare of a tropical 
sun, destroy the feeling of rest that such a place should give. 

I was surprised once, when reading over the names, to come 
upon one of a countrywoman of my own, — a name well known in 
America, and for those to whom she is still a household name, 
I copy the inscription on her tombstone : — 

I 



io8 THE CEMETERY. [Cll. VI. 



SACKED TO THE MEMORY OF MRS. H. ATWOOD, 

"WIFE OF THE EEVD. S. NEWELL, 

MISSIONARY AT BOMBAY. 

BORN AT HAVERHILL, MASS. U.S. AMERICA, 

OCT. 10, 1793; 

DIED AFTER A DISTRESSING VOYAGE 

FROM INDIA TO THIS PLACE, 

NOV. 30, 1812. 

LONG DEVOTED TO CHRIST, HER HEART BURNED FOR THE HEATHEN. 

FOR THEM SHE LEFT HER KINDRED AND HER NATIVE LAND, 

AND "WELCOMED DANGERS AND SUFFERINGS. 

OF E"SCELLENT UNDERSTANDING, RICH IN ACCOMPLISHMENTS 

AND VIRTUOUS, THE DELIGHT OF HER FRIENDS, 

A CRO"WN TO HER HUSBAND, AND AN ORNAMENT TO THE MISSIONARY CAUSE, 

HER SHORT LIFE "WAS BRIGHT, HER DEATH FULL OF GLORY. 

HER NAME LIVES IN ALL CHRISTIAN LANDS, AND IS PLEADING 

"WITH IRRESISTIBLE ELOQUENCE FOR THE HEATHEN. 

THIS HUMBLE MONUMENT TO HER MEMORY 

IS ERECTED BY THE 

AMERICAN BOARD OF COMMISSIONERS 

FOR FOREIGN MISSIONS. 

The new part of the cemetery is in much better order, the 
tombs being principally placed in rows ; and it is not likely to 
be overcrowded now, as none are permitted to be bm'ied there 
except those who have vaults, and they are not allowed to be 
opened till a year has elapsed from the time the last corpse was 
interred. A great deal of care is bestowed on the graves ; hand- 
some vases are fastened with iron clamps^ to the tombstones, 
flowers and shrubs are planted, and on the anniversaries of 
deaths splendid bouquets are placed on every tomb the inmates 
of which have a relative left. 

On the 2nd of November, the Fete des Morts, the whole 
Catholic community goes to the cemeteries to place flowers on 
the graves. I once went with a lady who was accompanied by 
a servant bearing on her head a large basket of bouquets. 

These were each placed with a prayer on the tombs of every 
relative and intimate friend ; and when the basket was exhausted, 
a few still being unremembered, she laid a small spray on the 
rest, not forgetting a word of sorrow to each. 

1 will confess I was not a little tired before it was over, and 

' Shame to say, but for this precaution they would be stolen. 



Ch. VI.] BOIS MARCHAND. ^ 109 

envied her patience. P^'ormerly candles were lit at every grave ; 
but a terrible accident happening, this was forbidden by the 
authorities. A young girl kneeling between a row of lights, 
her muslin dress caught fire, and before she could be rescued 
she was so severely burnt that death ensued. 

In sad contrast to the Western Cemetery, where each tomb is 
loaded with tokens of affection, each vault jealously guarded by 
locked iron railings — by everything love can devise to show 
reverence for the departed — is the new cemetery at Bois 
Marchand, a short distance from Port Louis. 

In consequence of the overcrowded state of the old cemeteries, 
and the danger of constantly opening the graves in a densely 
populated city during the epidemic, land was purchased for a 
new burial-ground ; and there thousands of the victims of this 
fearful plague lie buried in long rows, each grave slightly 
separated from its neighbour. 

It was with difficulty the dead could find sepulture, when 
the living had hardly strength enough to follow their nearest 
and dearest. 

By the hurricane in March the raised mounds were almost 
entirely levelled, and now it would be impossible to say whose 
were the relics of humanity covered by the bright red earth and 
long grass. That widespread ' Grod's acre ' will for ever remain a 
record in itself of the fell disease that for so long a period 
devasted the ' Grem of the Ocean.' 

LINES ON THE CEMETERY AT BOIS MARCHAND. 

They lie in thousands side by side, 

On that wild desert plain ; 
The loved, the cherished, nameless there, 

By raging fever slain. 

In tombs of their ancestral dead 

Their bones may never lie ; 
No marble records shield their graves 

Beneath that torrid sky. 

O'er that blent mass of human clay 

No mourners bend in tears ; 
No wreaths, no votive offerings there. 

Though the loss will be felt for years. 



no 



TABLE. 



[Ch. VI. 



For there the gray-haired grandsire lies, 

With the darlings he loved so well ; 
And there the bride of a few short hours — 

Of such griefs what tongue may tell ? 

The mother with her first-born babe, 
. The father in manhood's pride ; 
The fairest and best were swept away — 
Our friends so trusted and tried. 

Long, long will the ' G-em of the Ocean ' rue 

The fever-fiend's deadly rage ; 
For sadder sights than its shores have seen 
Kest not in History's page. 
April, 1868.^ 

Outside, under the filaos of the Western Cemetery, are the 
houses of the guardians ; and the stone-cutters sit there all day, 
plying their trade of perpetuating or preserving the memory of 
the dead. 

Past the Indian burial-grounds is a very melancholy corner, 
where are interred suicides and criminals who have been hung. 
Eank grass grows over them, and no flower but the wild, deadly 
StraTYirrionium flourishes near them ; though I once saw a little 
bouquet placed on the grave of a murderer, telling the tale of 
some heart grieving even for the poor wretch whom human 
mercy could not spare. 



Table of Mortality dueing the Epidemic of 1866, 1867, 1868. 







Total 




Months 










1866 


1867 


1868 


January . . . . . 


1282 


1470 


1802 


February 










1100 


2851 


2224 


March . 










990 


6671 


2825 


April 










1064 


10554 


2036 


May 












1038 


8109 


2259 


June 












1035 


3647 


1940 


July . 












1085 


2383 


1530 


August . 












1002 


1386 


1164 


September 












949 


1145 


927 


October 












1042 


842 


808 


November 












924 


873 


740 


December 












1037 


1169 


756 




T 


Dtal . 








12548 


41100 


19011 



' The Bois Marchand is now being greatly improved, and trees planted. 1870. 



Ch. VI I.J THE MA URITIUS. in 



CHAPTER VII. 

THE CYCLONE OF 186 

The Direction of the Winds, &.c., from Feb. 27 to March /) — Premonitory Symp- 
toms — Changes from 5th to 11th — Direction of Cyclone — Its Track on the 
Ocean — Damages in Port Louis — Destruction of Churches, Warehouses, &c. — 
Effects in the Harbour — Irving Lodge — Scenes in the Streets — Grand Kiver 
Bridge — Midland and Southern Districts — Eeduit — Pamplemousses — Effects on 
the Sea-shore — Table of Losses, Deaths, &c. 

The cyclone which visited Mauritius the 10th, 11th, and 
12th of March, and which left behind so many sad traces of its 
power, is considered, with the exception of that of 7th of March, 
1848, to have been the most violent in its effects since the 
hurricane o 1806.^ 

On the 27th of February there were strong breezes from ESE. 
and SE. veering to SSE., SW., W., NW., N., NNE., and on 
the 5th of March E. ^ NE. 

From the 1st to the 5th of March there were continuous indi- 
cations of a cyclone to the east of Mamitius. Cyclonic matter 
was abundant, and nearly constant. So excessive was the heat, 
and so oppressive the weather, one could almost say some 
unknown agency was at work against human existence. Fever 
increased, the rays of the sun were scorching, and the atmo- 
sphere was so overcharged with electricity that everyone felt 
uncomfortable. 

On the 6th of March a cyclone still threatened, and the wind 
changed from E. \ NE. tp NE. This weather, I apprehend, was 
owing to the existence of a cyclone polygene to the W. of 
Mauritius. 

From the 6th to the 9th the wind changed from NE. to N. 
and NW., but after a storm wave without apparent discharge, 

' Eor much of this information I am indebted to M. Bosquet's able paper on 
this cyclone, published in the daily papers. 



112 THE CYCLONE. [Ch. VII. 

it suddenly veered on the 9th to ESE., inclining SE., and 
accompanied by all the indications of a cyclone, and the 
barometer lowered to 758.69. 

The atmosphere acquired fresh cyclonic matter, indicating 
the existence of the already- recognised polygene cyclone, which 
advanced to the E. of the island. 

During the whole day of the 10th the weather was at hurri- 
cane point, the wind SE., inclining to SSE., and the barometer 
stood at 754.88. 

On the 11th cyclone weather was very marked, after strong- 
squalls all night, and the barometer lowered to 753.36. At 
half-past nine light oscillations were visible, the wind keeping 
to SSE., and clouds flying from the SE., one or two degrees 
south. 

The centre of the cyclone presented itself in the latitude of 
Port Louis. From one to half-past the clouds passed rapidly 
from ESE. ; and this observation confirms the idea of the 
polygenic nature of the cyclone recognised from the 5th to the 
9th inst. 

During the 11th, and up to noon of the 12th, the weather 
grew worse gradually. The squalls and gusts acquired addi- 
tional strength, and the barometer slowly descended from 
746.29 (its height at 10 p.m. of the 11th) to 734.60 at 9 a.m. 
of the 12th. The wind blew furiously all night, keeping about 
SSE., but towards six in the morning it veered in all directions. 
At the moment of the minimum (the mercurial column always 
oscillating) the squalls were terrific from the ESE., but they 
diminished by afternoon, though the elements still kept up 
their strife, and the wind suddenly varied without any apparent 
order from S. to SW., W. to SW., S., &c. 

At one o'clock, during a momentary calm, the superior 
currents indicating the wind from ENE., I concluded that the 
second cyclone of this polygene cyclone was presented by the 
meridian of Port Louis. 

The first was directed to the E. of Mauritius, passing by the 
latitude of Port Louis from 9 p.m. to 2 a.m. 

The second closely followed the first, and presented itself 
about 10 P.M., and came very near the island, and turned first 
to the N. and then W. of it. 

The superior current, the barometer, the continuous oscilla- 



'"] 




!i^ 



20 



. . 22 



J. UC iSUJJC^ixv^x v-^^-.. , 



5 osciua- 



Ch. VII.] DURATION OF CYCLONE. 113 

tions of the mercury, and the weather, all confirm the opinion 
of the polygene cyclone ; and from the end of February the 
irregular changes of the wind, the falling of the barometer, and 
the presence of cyclonic matter, as well as the ordinary indica- 
tions which precede these terrible convulsions of the aerial 
ocean, prove the existence and development of it at a great 
distance. 

The cyclone chart shows the direction of the track of the two 
cyclones which occurred in the Indian Ocean during the 10th, 
11th, and 12th of March. The long arrows point to the centre 
bearings of the cyclone from Mauritius during the same period. 
The large circle denotes the diameter of the cyclone, which is 
worked out approximately to the law of storms. 

Thus calculating that the cyclone commenced on Tuesday, 
the 10th, at 6 p.m., and exhausted its force (as far as Mauritius 
was concerned) on Friday the 13th at 6 a.m., allowing sixty hours 
for its duration, and considering the rate of travelling of a 
cyclone, in the South Indian Ocean, to be about seven miles per 
hour, it is safe to conclude that its diameter was about 420 
miles. 

It will be seen, by referring to this chart, that the centre of 
this cyclone passed directly over Bourbon; and, after its construc- 
tion, news was received from that place confirming this fact, 
and stating that a great amount of damage was done there, 
though not equal to that in Mauritius. 

The ships which are on the chart are those which were in the 
cyclone, and suffered severely before entering Port Louis 
Harbour. 

An account of extracts taken from their logs will be found at 
the end of the chapter. 

In the city of Port Louis the damage to property was very 
serious. Most of the ornamental trees in both private and 
public gardens were either blown down, uprooted, or so utterly 
denuded of leaves and their lesser branches that they seemed 
to have passed from the dense foliage of Midsummer to the 
depth of an European winter — a strange appearance for 
Mauritius, where there are so few deciduous trees. 

Scarcely a dependency or Malabar hut in the various camps 
was left standing. 

St. Mary's Church at Plaine Verte, built of iron, was severed 



CYCLONE CHAKT of the iO''-." 11™ & 12'^" March, 1868. 

J3yl[icolasUke, U.S. Consul, at Port Louis, Mauritius. 




I'repared fbrWwi SuM^opioal liambUs. 



Ril/Uliud by SwrnpsDnlow, Marstcrv, low, SiSea>-le; O-cmn. BwOdin^s, 188 Fleet Jn-r Imdon. 



Edw^Wdlar^ryf^Jfej" Jwrt S^'a 



114 EFFECTS OF STORM. [Ch. VII. 

from its foundation, and left an utter ruin ; not any portion of 
its structure could be used again. The main part of the building- 
was carried to some distance, while the chancel and vestries 
fell in on the floor of the church. The harmonium, reading- 
desk, pulpit, gas-fittings, &c., were all smashed to pieces. The 
parsonage and its dependencies stood roofless. 

St. Paul's Church, near by, recently erected, and strongly 
built of stone, sustained nearly as much damage. The wall, 
exposed to the wind, fell in with a terrible crash, and, sad to 
relate, buried three men under its ruins. The roof fell, crushing 
in the gallery, and breaking up the organ till scarcely a pipe 
of it was visible. 

The large iron warehouses in the docks were nearly all 
unroofed, and a large amount of merchandise (principally sugar) 
destroyed. On the morning of the 11th, the steady fall of the 
barometer caused the Port Officer to hoist his hurricane signals, 
and fire the gun, warning all masters of ships to be on board, 
and prepare their vessels for the coming storm. By this time, 
however, in consequence of the preceding day's threatening 
weather, all the ships had lowered their topmasts, yards, every- 
thing that the wind could lay hold of — with double anchors 
well down into the ground. 

Towards noon the squalls varied very much, and struck the 
water with terrific descending force, but with little effect on 
the ships. Later, the wind hauled, and there seemed every 
probability that all the vessels (some eighty or ninety) would be 
driven to sea and lost, which nothing but a shift of wind, or the 
transit of the centre of the cyclone, could avert. By eleven 
o'clock, P.M., every ship in the harbour was adrift. The large 
' Bethel,' formerly an English man-of-war, lying high out of the 
water, was the first to break from her moorings. The most in- 
conceivable confusion and destruction ensued. The crashing of 
timbers and masts, and the roaring of the tempest, were terrific. 
The ships rolled on their beam-ends, and every blast seemed 
stronger than its predecessor, sometimes resembling explosions 
more than a progressive fluid, and tearing the surface of the 
water high up into curious spiral columns, revolving with in- 
credible velocity. 

When day dawned on the 12th the devastation was appal- 
ling ; the ships had been driven across the harbour by the veer- 



Ch. VII.] SIGNS OF A CYCLONE. 115 

ing of the wind and were pounding into and ripping each other, 
causino' masts and bulwarks to fall on all sides. The chain 
cables of some of the iron ships tore down the massive plates 
like paper, as the sea broke fearfully across the harbour, and 
along the reefs as far as the eye could reach, which was pro- 
bably the storm-wave of the passing cyclone. 

Many of the vessels, with their cargoes, were afterwards con- 
demned, and the losses sustained amounted to many millions of 
dollars. 

During the cyclone I was at Irving Lodge, a recently erected 
building, framed in America, and put together in the strongest 
manner, with a view to resist the terrible hurricanes so frequent 
here, and on which no expense had been spared by the Ameri- 
can merchants, Messrs. Houdlette and Perkins. 

On Wednesday evening, the gradual fall of the barometer, 
and heavy gusts of wind, with dark clouds passing swiftly from 
the SE., denoting certain signs that a cyclone was approaching 
the island, the servants were warned, and the hurricane shutters 
and doors were securely fastened, and every precaution taken 
for our personal safety ; in spite of which, the roaring of the 
wind and heavy fall of rain made us all feel anxious. 

Early on Tlmrsday morning a violent gust of wind dashed in 
the shutters of a window, carrying away the inner blinds and 
sash, and tearing the window out of its frame. 

Travelling across the room, it struck the door which opened 
into the dining-room, and broke it down, frame and all, de- 
stroying at the same time a fine chandelier which hung over 
the table, and smashing the table itself. 

Up to this 1 had been peering through the hurricane shutters, 
watching the wind and clouds, and taking notes of them. The 
scene outside was frightful, houses being overthrown before 
my eyes ; one was literally rolled over, containing three per- 
sons. Flying in all directions were parts of roofs, timbers, and 
branches of trees. The bath-house was actually blown away ; 
large blocks of stone weighing two or three cwt., composing its 
foundation, were moved to the distance of fifteen or twenty 
feet by the force of the wind. Parts of the building struck the 
kitchen and started its roof ; but it was so substantial that it 
fortunately resisted the violence of the storm. 

About seven o'clock we deemed it proper to abandon tlie house, 



ii6 DESTRUCTION. [Ch. VII. 

as the timbers creaked and shook so much that we were fearful it 
would fall on us. Taking* advantage of the short lulls between 
the gusts, we retreated by the back door to the stable, about 
fifty yards distant, and we reached it with difficulty. This 
building was about seventy-five feet long, and fifteen high, used 
for a stable and servants' rooms. We barricaded ourselves in, 
fully expecting that, as the storm increased, the house and de- 
pendencies would all go. During the morning twenty families, 
whose dwellings had been all destroyed, sought refuge with us : 
and here we remained shut up, almost without food or drink, 
till Friday morning. 

It was a never-to-be-forgotten night ! The roaring and 
howling of the wind, and ever-increasing torrents of rain, were 
terrible. Our stable, though strongly built of stone, shook with 
every blast ; and the poor women and children, cold and hungry, 
and their clothes all drenched and torn, were piteous to see. 

On Friday morning, the violence of the storm having passed, 
though the wind still blew sharply, we ventured out to the 
house. The wind and rain having had free access to the in- 
terior, had drenched everything, destroying the new and costly 
furniture. 

Had the storm lasted a short time longer the house must 
have gone ; as it was, the whole of the south side had started. 

Fifty buildings within a radius of half a mile were destroyed. 
As I passed along on Friday morning to return home, my heart 
sickened at the scenes that met my gaze on every side. Every 
street was obstructed with roofs, broken timbers, and trunks of 
trees ; and every conceivable thing scattered about, made ' con- 
fusion worse confounded.' Groups of poor people, wet and 
weary, were huddled together in corners, in the greatest dis- 
tress, homeless and miserable, with extended hands imploringly 
asking alms, they having lost everything but the few rags 
that scarcely covered their persons. My heart ached for the 
poor creatures, many of them showing in their pallid faces 
traces of recent fever, and but too many have been since 
relieved by death. 

On arriving at my lodgings, I found them thoroughly 
drenched from the rivers of water that had leaked under the 
doors, and run plenteously down the walls, damaging books, 
clothes, and papers. 



Ch. VII.] RESULTS. 117 

On the 1 6tli I took a carriage and drove through the district 
of Pamplemousses, and the following day went southward ; 
but wherever I passed, I saw but a repetition of scenes of 
destruction, and evidences of the violence of the cyclone. 

The new and beautiful bridge over Grrand Eiver, built of iron, 
was partially destroyed. Two of the immense iron girders, 
about 200 feet in length, were blown off the columns into the 
river, and were in such a state as to be useless. There must have 
been a pressure of 100 lbs. to the square foot upon these girders 
to have raised them from their bed, as they weighed over 300 
tons. The stone abutment on the west bank was also severely 
injured, probably by the weight of the girders striking it as 
they fell. 

The station-house was unroofed and otherwise damaged. 
The depot for the rolling stock of the Midland line was a large 
building of dressed stone, so substantial, one would have thought 
nothing but an earthquake would have started its walls ; yet 
the wind blew in the SE. side, moving large stones from their 
foundation, carrying them some distance with incredible force, 
breaking and destroying a considerable quantity of rolling stock 
and machinery. 

At Failles scarcely a house was left entire. St. Peter's Church 
was partially unroofed ; the large east window blown in ; seats 
driven to the farther end of the church ; all the glass 
smashed ; the pulpit upset ; and ruin and confusion on all 
sides. 

The Black River, Grrand Port, and other districts on the south, 
all suffered severely. To describe one, needs only a change of 
names to describe all the rest. 

Fields of canes levelled to the ground, or torn up in masses ; 
fine old trees broken or uprooted ; roads impassable from the 
rain having washed deep gullies in them ; sugar-houses, 
dwellings, dependencies, unroofed or otherwise injured ; horses, 
mules and cattle, killed or wounded ; the direst destruction 
everywhere. 

On the Yemen estate, the vast sugar-houses were destroyed ; 
walls and roofs crushing in on the machinery, and ruining about 
60,000 lbs. of sugar. 

The Indians fled from the camp, and about 300 of them 
sought refuge imder the arch which formed the entrance to the 



Ii8 CROPS A.\D GARDE XS. [Ch. \^I. 

furnaces, but were soon driven from their siielter. and had 
barely time to escape with their lives, as it gave way ; one man, 
as it was, had both arms and legs broken. The much-admired 
avenue of line tamarind trees leading to the establishment at 
Black Eiver was half rooted up, and the rush of water from the 
mountains cut canals six feet deep in the road, which will take 
a long time to repair. 

The inhabitants of the tamarind village were obliged to seek 
refuge in the artillery barracks, where they were miserably 
housed for want of room ; but even thus they were better off 
than those who had no shelter to fly to. and were exposed for 
hours to the storm. 

The state of all the villages was most depl:>rable. as numbers 
of horses, mules, and cattle were killed by the falling buildings. 
and from want of help were left long under the ruins. This, and 
other noxious matter round the temporary huts erected by the 
Indians, doubtless encouraged the terrible ejfl.demic still raging 
at that time. 

G-ovemment House, at Eeduit, built in 176S, which had 
escaped hitherto, suffered so severely in the hurricane that at 
one time the lives of the inmates were in danger. 

The elegant gardens attached to the house were a scene of 
devastation ; and a large number of the beautiful trees that 
shaded the walks, and the variety of graceful shrubs and rare 
exotics, were twisted and broken, and in many places uprooted. 
These beautiful grounds, which were in such fine order, suddenly 
presented the appearance of winter, as scarcely a green leaf 
remained. 

The crops in the districts of Pamplemous'ses, Eiviere du Eem- 
part and others in the X. of the island, received little damage. 
not many of the canes being uprooted ; and a few bright days 
recovered those that were only bent by the wind. 

The losses in all kinds of buildings was very great, as will be 
seen by the table at the end of this chapter. 

Many of the small wooden houses, built on two or three courses 
of stone, were lifted up and carried bodily from their foundations, 
to the distance of some yards. One tolerably large house on the 
Pamplemousses road, with a good shingle roof, was literally 
turned bottom up, and stood on the ridge of the roof. The 
walls of manv thatched dweUino^s fell flat inwards, and the roof, 



Ch. VII.] LOSS OF PROPERTY. 119 

with not a bundle of thatch dislodged, covered the whole, as if 
placed there, looking, not inaptly, like the grave of the former 
residence ; and in reality in several instances this was the tomb 
of some of the former inmates, unable to escape from the ruins. 

It was sad enough to witness such a loss of property, but 
worse to note in every hut — every corner where only the re- 
mains of a roof slanted, and afforded a little shelter — some poor 
wretch shivering with ague or biuming with fever : or sitting 
up, rolled in a ragged sheet barely enough to cover him. 

The faces of all who were engaged, in a slovenly way, trying 
to patch up these miserable places, bore the unmistakable 
traces that they had also passed through the fiery ordeal of 
this terrible epidemic. 

The effects of the hurricane were very visible on the sea- 
shore. The larsre kilns, erected for biuming: coral for lime, were 
much injured, and the piles of coral collected to supply them 
were washed back into the ocean from which they had been 
taken with so much labour. 

A pretty little creek I had often examined for several curi- 
osities, always full of algteas, and glowing with all the delicate 
tints only a sea-garden can show, was entirely filled up. A 
land-slip had taken place, from the torrents of water pouring 
down, and disintegrating masses of red earth on the sheMng 
banks above : and as they fell they had covered even the 
boulders and rocks in the vicinity, and coloured the sea to 
some distance. 

The destruction amongst cocoa-trees was verv crreat. On 
one estate a fine tope of seventy-five young trees, just in full 
blossom, was utterly rooted out. 

I cannot close this brief summary of the disasters caused 
by the cyclone without mentioning that everyone, from His 
Excellencv the Governor to the lowest member of the com- 
munity who had the means, did all in his power to alleviate 
the distress and misery- caused by this terrible visitation. 



I20 



RETURN TABLE. 



[Ch.VII 



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Ch. VI L] reports. 121 



Notes of Cyclone at Bourbon. 

'The sea was very rough on Monday, March 9, 1870, and 
this was the precursor of the tempest which burst over Reunion 
on the 12th and 13th. The centre of the cyclone passed over St. 
Pierre, describing its trajectory from NE. to SW. On Tuesday 
the wind blew with violence from the SE. till about 3 p.m. ; 
then a calm intervened, which lasted till six in the evening, ac- 
companied to the last moment by a suffocating heat. This was 
the passage of the centre, indicated perfectly by the excessive 
lowering of the barometer to 719 millemetres, the first time it 
had been known to descend so low since 1806. On the 12th 
the storm returned with fury from the NW., and it was only 
towards noon the next day that it began to calm. 

' Great damage was done to buildings in the towns and 
villages, sugar-houses, gardens, &c. ; a detail of which would 
only be a repetition of such scenes in Mauritius.' 



Report of the Ship ' La Marie^^ Capt. Horveno. 

This vessel received the cyclone on Friday 13th, in 23° 16' 
S. lat. and 57° 54' E. long, to the S. of Eeunion. Towards 
one o'clock in the morning the centre of the cyclone must have 
passed over this ship, the barometer marking 736 millemetres, 
and then rising. Thus it appears, from the time the hurricane 
passed us, and that at which it struck the ' Marie,' it must have 
travelled very slowly. 

Capt. Horveno gives an account of a vessel in distress he fell 
in with and assisted. He says : — 

' At 11.30 Saturday morning I perceived ahead of me a ship 
with only a mizen-mast left standing. It was the " Resolu," 
Capt. Durand, from Callao to Mauritius, loaded with guano, 
103 days at sea. 

' This vessel had passed through the centre of the cyclone on 
Thursday the 12th, at 1 p.m., that is 24 hours after I did. She 
had lost all her masts but the mizen, and in falling they had 
carried away all the boats.' 



122 REPORTS. [Ch. VII. 



Report of the ' Nereida. 

'The centre passed over this ship at 4 a.m. of the ITth, in 
lat. 31° 36' S., and 53° E. long., nearly 200 leagues S. of 
Bourbon. At this time the storm had nearly expended all its 
force. The barometer fell only to 754 millemetres, and the 
wind blew from ESE., and then from WNW., but not strong 
enough to oblige the " Nereida " to change her course.' 



Ch. VIII.] MAURITIUS, 123 



CHAPTER VIII. 

A TRIP TO THE ARSENAL. 

Our Road — Arrival at Balaclava — Description of House and Grounds — Flour Mill 
— Distillery — Patent Fuel — School for Indian Children — Lime Kilns — Geology 
of the Coast. 

We left town by the Grrand Bale and Cannonier Point road, 
which is rather picturesque, being lined on either side by wild 
camphor-trees. After passing Terre Rouge, much of the land 
is uncultivated, from the scarcity of water in the district, and 
most of the houses are in a more or less dilapidated condition ; 
which, with the neglected gardens, give one the impression 
that the life and energy of the place have died out. Everything 
here is either quite new or rapidly decaying, and climate and 
animal life are so destructive to all the works of man, that 
were Port Louis itself left for a few years, it would be an unin- 
habitable heap of ruins, a jungle of grass and wild lianes. 

Turning off the road at the Point aux Piments, we saw a 
catholic church terribly injured by the hurricane, but in which 
little groups of pious worshippers were constantly to be seen 
offering up prayers to the Virgin or Saints. 

We soon arrived at Balaclava, the country residence of one of 
the merchants of Mauritius. 

On entering the property you drive along a lane bordered 
with high hedges of the cassia, and pass in through a handsome 
iron gateway, made on the estate, and before the late storm 
covered with English honeysuckle. There is a carriage-road 
through the beautiful gardens up to the house, and you drive 
along avenues of rare exotic trees and shrubs, and on every side 
a wealth of roses and delicate flowers charms the senses. 

There are the greater part of the indigenous trees of the 
island to be found here. The ponds are filled with Grourami and 

K 



124 A COUNTRY RESIDENCE, [Ch. VIII. 

gold-fish ; and at one end of the garden is a magnificent 
banian tree, which spreads its gigantic arms over the ovens of 
the old Arsenal battery, now scarcely visible through the mass 
of creepers over them. 

The house, which stands on an eminence at the head of 
Turtle Bay, was built by the French. It originally formed 
part of an arsenal, constructed by Mahe de la Bourdonnais. 
There was also an iron-foundry and powder-mills, whence, 
issued all the arms and defences of the colony, as well as a 
supply of ammunition for the ships the Frenchman fitted out 
for his Indian expedition. 

A terrible accident, from the carelessness of a workman, caused 
an explosion of the powder-mills, almost entirely destroying the 
whole arsenal, as well as killing and wounding nearly 300 
people. The present proprietor has added wings to the old 
building, converted a part of the ruins into a billiard-room, and 
surrounded the whole with a spacious verandah, till it has 
become, as by enchantment, a charming summer villa. 

The whole property is now well supplied with water by means 
of a hydraulic ram from the Citron river ; and where the pipes 
are brought into the garden in a sort of tower, its very unsight- 
liness has been made to add another ornament to it, by being 
covered with climbing roses and sweet creepers, that flaunt out 
their wild masses of blossoms in the season, and perfume the air. 

The French constructed a large dam of dressed stone, in 
1743, which has been raised ^\ feet higher, and gives a lavish 
supply of water for mills and distillery. The surplus rushes over 
the dam in a wide sheet of twenty-five or thirty feet high, then 
goes dancing down the rocks, forming the loveliest, most 
capricious little cascades, till it joins the sea. A walk has been 
made round the dam, and a stone seat erected just where the 
water dashes down ; willows are planted near it. 

It was once graced by a little fairy form, the pride and 
darling of the place, fair as the flowers around her, but who 
faded away as quickly, touched by the poison breath of the dire 
epidemic then raging. It made me very sad, while I listened 
to the mournful tale, as I thought of my own little one, nearly 
the same age, so far away from me. 

The view from the house seaward is of great beauty, the little 
land-locked bay always studded with fishing-boats ; on one side 



Ch. VIII.] SUGAR-HOUSE, 125 

a long sweep of turf to the water's edge, shaded with filaos, on 
the other a gentle rise covered to its summit with slirubs, its 
foot fringed with cocoa-trees, overhanging the bay ; the wide 
ocean in the distance, and in the foreground the busy life of the 
mill and distillery ; the superintendents' houses, and the fine 
trees everywhere, make a tout ensemble most picturesque. To 
be seen in its most charming phase, you should recline in one 
of the luxuriant oriental chairs in tlie verandah, on a bright 
moonlight night, when the bay lies before you, like an 
enchanted lake of rippling silver ; and with the sound of the 
falling waters in your ears, you may dream away a summer's 
evening delightfully. 

Descending a long flight of steps from the garden to the 
shore, which is masoned round for the three chasse-marees 
belonging to the place to lie alongside to take in their cargoes, 
on the right is a large mill for grinding the wheat brought 
principally from Australia, which is spread out for cleaning 
on the flat roof of the mill, laid level with bitumen, called here 
orgamasee. 

There is a large water-wheel of thirty-eight feet, and one of 
twenty feet in diameter, that drive six stones, capable of 
grinding 300 bags of 150 lbs. each per day. The whole 
machinery, from the self-feeding buckets on a large wheel that 
carry in the wheat to the mill, to the separation of the different 
sorts of flour, is most complete. There was one very curious 
feature I noticed, where the shaft of a large cog-wheel had been 
broken. Its place was supplied by an old cannon, now sending 
forth streams of life sustenance, instead of belching forth flames 
and missiles for Man's destruction. 

There is a tramway to the sea for bringing up the corn from 
the boats ; one of the first, I believe, constructed in the island. 
The store-house can contain 10,000 bags of wheat, and is often 
full. Outside the mill is a fine grove of bananas, and the turf 
is dotted over with cocoas, palms, banians, &c., between it and 
the distillery on the left. Here we see the whole secret of rum 
making, for which no pains and expense have been spared to 
replace manual labour by machinery, as far as every modern 
appliance can do it. 

The first thing we saw was the molasses as it was brought in 
from the sugar-houses, being poured from the casks into large 



1216 RUM. [Ch. VIII. 

troughs ; black dirty-looking stuff, to be tested by the saccharo- 
meter ; and if under 40° strong, it is rejected and thrown out. 
If up to proof, it is strained three times and run into large 
vats, of which there are eighteen, of sixty casks each, lined with 
lead, and where the molasses is mixed with water and yeast to 
cause it to ferment. After fermentation, it runs into the still, 
at the bottom of which is placed a hydrometer, which is covered 
with a glass case, under lock and key, in the hands of a govern- 
ment official, who is on the premises from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. 

A capital arrangement is made for filling the tonnels, which 
are twenty in number, of 1,100 galls, each. A copper vacuum- 
pan is connected with the pipes going down into the reservoir, 
and also similar pipes leading to the tonnels. Steam is let on, 
and then exhausted in the receiver, which causes the rum to 
pass up the pipes like a syphon. There is an indicator in the 
receiver, which denotes when the tonnel is full. 

As soon as the rum is ready for market, it is drawn off into 
casks, measured by a government measure, and marked by the 
officer, when it is sent off by boats to Port Louis. As the rum 
leaves the still, it is about 30 per cent, over proof. When the vats 
are emptied, it is necessary to clean them ; but thirty-six hours 
must elapse before the men dare enter them, on account of the 
great quantities of carbonic acid gas they contain ; they are 
generally whitewashed before being filled again. Three boilers 
are employed, two of twenty-five and one of fifty horse-power, 
the steam for which is condensed and returned to them. 

They burn three tons of coal per day, principally Australian. 
The dust from this coal is mixed with cowdung, one part o'f the 
former to two of the latter, and pressed by machinery into 
blocks of eight pounds each, then dried in the sun, when it be- 
comes very hard, and forms excellent fuel ; and a man can make 
a ton of blocks a day. 

There is a cooperage on the place, where all the casks are 
manufactured, and the iron hoops wrought. The estate com- 
prises about 1,800 acres, and ninety-five men are constantly 
employed in the mill and distillery. 

The proprietor took the initiative in opening a school for the 
children of his Indian labourers. They are in school from 
6 or 7 to 10 A.M. ; and though now many are very regular, at 
first it was a chevy every morning to catch the little rascals. 



Ch. VIII.] 



INDIAN CHILDREN. 



\TJ 



who objected to the discipline after their curiosity was satisfied, 
and the parents gave little help towards compelling them to 
attend. Most have made good progress, and in writing, sums, 
and reading, they would put to shame many a school of higher 
pretensions. The room is large and airy, with a thatched roof. 
and the walls are hung with maps, slates, &c. The pencils used 
are the large spines of the Echinus manullatios, plentiful in 
the Bay. 

The old French fort of seven guns is turned into store-houses 
for lime, and close by are three large and three small kilns, 




POND SCENE. 



capable of burning 1,000 barrels of lime, in ten days, white as 
the driven snow. The coral for making the lime is brought in 
flat-bottomed boats from the reefs in the vicinity each making- 
two or three trips a day. 

There are fine quarries on the estate of grey stone, out of 
which the entire material used for building one of the churches 
of Port Louis was quarried gratis, by the liberality of the owner. 

The shores of this bay are very interesting in a geological 
point of view. Traces are visible of vast streams of lava over- 
lying each other, as well as numerous boulders, water-worn and 
incrusted with what was once molten matter ; and in the inter- 



128 RETURN HOME. [Ch. VIII. 

stices are many fragments of madrepores, which show that, at 
not a very remote period, they were submerged. But their 
present position, which is so many feet above the level of the 
sea, is wholly attributable to upheaval. 

We returned home late in the evening, highly gratified 
with our day's entertainment, and each witli a large bouquet 
courteously presented by our host. 



CHAPTER IX. 

THE GEOLOGY OF MAURITIUS. 

Kxtinct Craters — Cessation of Volcanic Action — Upheaval — Deposits at Timor 
and other Islands — Force of Volcanic Agency — Mountain Peaks — Flacq — Craters 
— Dr. Ayres on Flat Island — Original Formation of Mauritius— Submersion — 
— Fossil Casts. 

Like most other islands in the Indian Ocean, the Isle of France 
is of volcanic production. Endless are the peculiar character- 
istics of its mountain peaks, and the abrupt gigantic fissures 
which separate them, and of the beds of lava of different thick- 
ness and nature which are found everywhere. 

Extinct craters of the different eras filled with earth are 
more or less abundant, and are seen in numberless situations in 
the island. The hills and mountain peaks, which impress their 
peculiar character on the physical aspect of the land, have 
been formed, at different times, by volcanic eruptions, on which 
the now extinguished fires have left ineffaceable traces of their 
existence. 

The great fissures in the sides of the hills, which have given 
rise to the waters of the interior, and formed the beds of the 
rivers and ravines now seen, have undoubtedly resulted from 
disruption. 

Although volcanic action has entirely ceased, there is no 
doubt that the volcano which formed the island was submarine, 
and that its formation was not sudden, but the work of succes- 
sive ages ; and the general appearance of its surface indicates 
these facts. 

In many parts of the interior, particularly in the vicinity of 
the Chamarel Mountains, I have found corals in a perfect state, 
buried in a debris of cretaceous formation, but none of the 
species of which now exist in the warm tropical seas where they 
once lived. 



130 GEOLOGICAL CHARACTER. [Ch IX. 

Between Grand Eiver and Port Louis beds exist more than 
fifteen feet in thickness ; the Custom House is built on a for- 
mation of this kind : and, in fact, these corals are found in nearly 
every part of the island. I observed, near the Eiver de Poste, 
in the interior, at an elevation of more than 1,000 feet, a 
stratum of plastic clay, twelve feet in depth, underlying a thick 
bed of gravel. 

It is difficult at first sight to account for these facts, but it 
is evident that such deposits could have been formed only under 
water, and as they are now found hundreds of feet from the 
present level of the ocean, we must admit one of two things ; 
either that the water was elevated above those points a suffi- 
ciently long time to form thick beds there, or that these beds 
were raised up from the bottom of the sea to the height where 
we now find them. 

Nothing in the present time warrants a belief that the sea, 
which has not changed its level within the time of History, 
could have been so elevated long enough as to form consider- 
able deposits ; it must therefore be admitted that the only rea- 
sonable supposition is upheaval, an idea supported by positive 
events that have taken place in our own times. 

In Flat Island blocks of volcanic rocks and masses of coral 
rise everywhere above the vegetation. 

These coral blocks are found on the north side of the island, 
forty or fifty feet above the level of the sea.^ 

At Timor are deposits of madrepores thirty feet thick, also 
in New Holland, Van Diemen's Land, at the Marian and Sand- 
wich Isles, &c., where they rest on argillaceous schist, sand- 
stone, limestone, and volcanic products. In the Isle of France 
a similar bank, twelve feet thick, is placed between two cur- 
rents of lava. 

Similar deposits are found in many other places of the same 
species of madrepores, in the interior of land, at an elevation 
of from 900 to 1,000 feet. The existence of deposits in such 
situations evidently indicates that all these islands have been 
upheaved from the bosom of the waters at different periods, for 
Vanks of coral at various levels are often found.'^ 

' See Dr. Ayres' ' Geology of Flat and Gabriel Islands,' in a letter to the Royal 
Society of Arts and Sciences, 1 860. 
* See Ruschenberger's ' Geology.' 



Ch. IX.J UPHEAVAL. 131 

The enormous incandescent mass forming the interior of the 
Globe, oscillating from side to side, beneath its thin crust, 
could emboss it in every direction, and nothing more than this 
would be required to raise continents out of the sea, and vary 
their surface into every conceivable form. 

Amongst numbers of other modern instances, I may mention 
the upheaval, in the course of sixteen days, of White Island, 
Neo Kammeni, King Greorge's Isle, and Aphroessa in the Grulf 
of Santorin. 

We have in the present day astonishing proofs of the force of 
volcanic agency in Hawaii, one of the Sandwich Islands, itself 
an upheaval originally, and which has gained its vast mountain 
peaks by accretion. The well-known Mauna Loa rises to the 
majestic height of 13,750 feet above sea level. This most 
terrible of modei'n volcanoes has many craters, but the largest 
one is that of Kilauca, three and a half miles long, two and a 
half wide, and 1,044 feet deep. It is completely surrounded by 
a wall of hardened lava, and at the bottom is a lake of liquid 
fire, constantly surging up. 

The whole interior of Mauritius was one vast crater, and the 
remains of the walls which encircled it, as it emerged from the 
ocean, now water-worn and degraded, forming gentle slopes, 
and filling the valleys with debris, are still evident to the eye 
of a geologist. 

The mountain peaks were the first to rise out of the deep, 
and the enormous fissures made by rivers of liquid fire, forcing 
their way to the ocean, leaving behind large plains of lava, are 
visible in all parts of the island. 

At Flacq the flow of the lava currents is distinctly seen, and 
these streams I have easily traced to the grand crater in the 
central districts. 

Near Turtle Bay, there are many large boulders, twenty feet 
above the level of the sea, of ancient formation, and much 
water- worn, which present the appearance of having been for a 
length of time submerged. Numerous corals fill their cavities, 
built there by the animals that inhabit the cells. These 
boulders are covered with a thick encrustation of lava, and in 
some instances are embedded in it. 

Between Mount Ory and the Corps de Garde Mountains a 
stream of lava, many miles in width, flowed to the sea. Then. 



132 ADVENTITIOUS CRATERS. [Ch. IX. 

again, between the Corps de Grarde and Eempart Mountains, 
there is another break in the great wall, through which a cur- 
rent of molten matter discharged itself. Similar phenomena 
occur in various parts of the island. 

After the great volcano became extinct, leaving high inward- 
carved walls, a number of lesser but very active volcanoes ap- 
peared on the sea-board side of the walls, in the opening oc- 
casioned by the subsidence of the great crater.^ These lesser 
ones are termed adventitious craters : a remarkable instance of 
which may be seen in the large crater of Vesuvius, where an 
adventitious one opened in its centre in 1829, Port Louis lies 
in one such crater, and the Vallee des Pretres in another ; and 
I have counted at least ten distinct craters between that city 
and the Morne. Eempart Mountain forms the NE. and 
Tamarind Mountain the SW. limit of a crater some miles in 

^ The late eruptions at Mauna Loa were on such a magnificent scale, and prove 
how much may be effected in a few months by volcanic action, that I quote some 
passages from an interesting paper on these convulsions in a 'New York Herald. 

In January 1859, three new craters were formed. Streams of lava were hurled 
upwards from 200 to 800 feet, and when they fell, they traversed a distance of five 
miles, and went sheer down a precipice in a torrent of fire, a mile wide ; drove 
back the sea and usurped its place. 

On January 27, 1868, Mauna Loa was observed to be very active. In twelve 
days there were 2,000 shocks of earthquakes, followed by immense tidal waves, 
that rose over the tops of the cocoa trees on the Rona coast, and swept away whole 
villages, with much destruction of life. The slope and part of a mountain were 
lifted bodily and thrown over a forest for a distance of 1,000 feet. Down the 
sides of the dread Mauna Loa swept a stream of lava, seven feet in -width, and 
an eruption of moist clay the width of a mile that spread over 2| miles of ground 
in three minutes. 

On April 2, immense bodies of earth were tossed about to great distances, as if 
they were feathers. Precipices of fearful height were levelled to the ground, and 
gigantic chasms and fissures have been formed from the rending and upheaving of 
the earth. The masses of lava that flowed from the crater, covering the roads with 
the fiery streams, rushed down to the sea and drove back the water violently. The 
ground thus gained formed a point a mile in length, and the lava continuing to 
pour over it, converted it into a part of the island. Huge rocks were hurled from 
the crater, with torrents of lava, to the height of 1,000 feet, and then rushed down 
to the sea with frightful velocity. 

On March 27, a new crater two miles in circumference was formed, which also 
vomited rocks and streams of liquid fire, A current of lava flowed underground 
six miles from the sea, and the gases from the rents in the earth destroyed all 
vegetation. 

The smoke that rose from the craters was a dense cloud, and floated off in a line 
of 1,000 miles across the sea. It was so thick at 500 miles from Hawaii, that 
Captain Stone of the brig ' Kamekameha V.' was unable to take an observation. 



Ch. IX.] CRATERS. 133 

diameter, with a good-sized adventitious one in the centre, just 
at the back of Tamarind Bay, 

The bold promontory of Brabant and the Island of Four- 
neaux are the only remaining- portions of the wall seaward of a 
crater more than two miles in diameter. The mountain sides 
of the crater looking south are almost perpendicular. Four 
aux Cerfs, Grand Bassin, and others are all small adventitious 
craters. ♦ 

At Bale de Cap there is a well-defined one, the walls rising 
to some hundreds of feet in height. There is a bluff at the 
head of this bay, about 300 feet perpendicular, formed of 
beautiful tabular basalt, which can only be \dewed to advantage 
from a boat. Large columns are constantly being detached and 
falling into the bay from the degrading action of the waves at 
the foot of this bluff, which is one of the finest basaltic rocks 
in the island. 

In the bay at Grand Port is a large crater, the walls of which 
are distinctly visible on a fine day from a boat. It appears 
about 300 yards in diameter, is of gTeat depth, and the hue of 
the water changes to a dark shade, almost black, just over its 
centre. 

Dr. Ayres, in his ' Geology of Flat and Gabriel Islands,' gives 
the following interesting notices : — ' In Flat Island, nearly facing- 
Round Island, we find the fossilised remains of an extensive 
forest, consisting of stumps of trees closely planted, about two 
feet high, hollow in the centre to the base, and some of them 
two feet in diameter. 

' The greater part of them are endogens, presenting the ap- 
pearance of the enlarged bases of palms, though many of the 
roots appear to possess an exogenous character. 

' The outer crust is hard, lined on the inner and hollowed sur- 
face by a loose intertwined network of coarse fibres, such as are 
seen in the interior of cocoa and other palms, and screw pines. 
On some parts of the denuded surface of the volcanic rocks, 
roots are thickly interlaced, and the still finer fibres of the roots 
appear to form the chief part of the stratum, which is about 
fifteen feet deep. It is hard and structureless, resembling a 
muddy substance recently calcified. 

' Here and there a perfect stump is visible, intermixed with 
masses of loose coral and shells of existing species. On the 



134 FORMATION OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. IX. 

ground above the lava, covered with grass and herbage, trunks 
of trees are visible, broken and lying on the surface, one of 
them, four or five feet long, presenting the appearance of the 
trunk of a palm. No sea shells are found in this stratum 
occupied by the roots of trees, though abundant in the coral 
strata below.' 

From the foregoing facts, the following ideas suggested 
themselves to me, as to the original formation of Mauritius. 
A terrific convulsion of a power almost inconceivably great 
must have upheaved it, and the adjacent islands, Eodriguez, 
Bourbon, and perhaps even Madagascar itself, in one vast tract 
of cones of various elevations, columnar masses, &c. 

This is not at all impossible when we consider that an earth- 
quake was sufficient to raise nearly 200 leagues of coast in 
Chili ; and another, in India, upheaved a hill fifty miles long- 
by sixteen broad, turning aside the course of the Indus ; and a 
thousand other well-known incidents. 

In process of time, the sloping sides of the great crater, and 
the currents of lava as they cooled, were covered with layers of 
earth, in which sprang up the gigantic palms and other trees, 
forming vast, voiceless forests ; for we have no traces of animal 
life at this epoch, if we except the few land shells that have 
been found. 

Fresh convulsions, causing these elevated cones to split and 
topple over, bm'ied the forest in their debris, and submerged 
the whole once again in the depths of the ocean. But the 
volcanic action, terrific as it must have been to cause this sub- 
mergence, was evidently unequal in force in different parts of 
this large tract of land. 

On the side from Flacq to Flat Island, the superincumbent 
masses on the buried forests were so great as to isolate them in 
the earthy debris, and in the course of ages they became 
fossilised without any mixture of marine deposits from the 
surrounding ocean, as is proved by the stratum in which they 
are found being destitute of sea shells and corals. 

Strange to say, the two species of land shells, the CaracalUt 
Lesteri and Helix rufa, are precisely similar to the living- 
species that are now found, the former infesting the cocoa trees 
on the sea-board of Mauritius. The volcanic action on the south 
side of the island was evidently different in character am] 



Ch. IX.J submergence. 135 

intensity. The submergence of the forests there may or may 
not have taken place at the same time as those on the north. 
It is possible there were fewer elevations there in the primitive 
upheaval to be overthrown, and the subsidence may have been 
so gradual, as to allow of their becoming enveloped in the 
detritus from the shores, debris of sea shells and fragments of 
corals, which in time formed a compact mass round them. As 
the trees rotted they left the indelible impression of their forms 
in the plastic mass, which, as it fossilised, left a cast as perfect as 
if taken in plaster of Paris. This has deceived many into taking 
what is in reality only a cast of the original tree, for the fossil 
tree itself. 

These casts abound in the islands near Mahebourg, particularly 
in the Isle des Aigrettes. I collected specimens, and submitted 
them to severe chemical tests with acids, and failed to discover 
anything like fibrous tissue. 

I found only fragments of corals, broken shells, and minute 
foraminiferous shells, all of which I feel convinced are only 
deposits of debris that abound in the bay and coasts even at the 
present time. 

A similar formation exists near Petite Savanne, which shows 
traces of submergence, and in this as in other cases rests on a 
bed of lava. 

For what length of time the whole of this vast tract lay in 
the abysses of ocean none can tell, — when the upheaval took 
place which separated it into groups and isolated islands, or 
when it became habitable for animal life, none may know save 
He who ' taketh up the isles in his hand as a very little 
thing.' 



CHAPTER X. 

THE MOHABRUM OR YAMSEH. 

Its Origin — Whence the name Yamseh — The Find in the Latanier River — The Dis- 
posal of their ' Bon Dieu ' — Procession for Aim's — Gouhns — How built — The 
Little Procession — Orgies at Plaine Verte — Colours worn b}'^ Indians — Grand 
Procession — The Lion — Breaking the Gouhns — Return Home — Ignorance of the 
Actors in the Yamseh. 

One of the principal Mahommedan festivals in Mauritius is the 
Yamseh. It took its rise from, the disputes among the follow- 
ers of Mahommed, on the question of prophetical succession. 

The Turks and Arabians recognised Abou Beker, Omar and 
Osman, as the rightful successors of the Prophet ; the Persian 
and Indian Mahommedans denounce these three Caliphs as 
usurpers, and regard Ali, the Prophet's son-in-law and minister, 
as his religious and political heir. 

The disputes only ended in a sanguinary contest, in which 
Hossein and Hossan, the sons of Ali, were slain with sixty of 
their relatives. 

The name Yamseh, unknown in India, is but a local cor- 
ruption of the cries of ' Ya Hossein ! Oh Hossan ! ' used in 
the procession, which combines a religious ceremony with the 
funeral rites to the memory of the slain brothers and the 
rejoicings of the victorious party. 

The night of every eleventh new moon is eagerly looked for 
by all classes of Mahommedans, who spend days in fasting, ab- 
lutions, and preparations for its appearance. 

As soon as the slender crescent is visible, a procession is 
formed, headed by the priests, which proceeds to the Eiver 
Latanier, at this time a shallow stream just outside of Port 
Louis. 

A priest dives down to bring up their ' Bon Dieu,' buried the 
past year in some sort of place hollowed in the bed of the river. 




THE MOHARRDM OR YAMSEH. 



Ch. X.] THE YAMS EH, 137 

Two stones, or two lumps of some paste hardened so as to be 
impervious to the water, are brought up, and they have a dual 
signification, as they not only represent their God and Prophet, 
but also the two slain brothers. 

The priests conduct their newly found treasure with great 
ceremony to the Temple at Plaine Verte, and for ten days and 
nights strict watch is kept over it. 

During this time prayers are offered up incessantly, and all 
pay a small sum for every prayer the priests recite for them ; 
certain food only is allowed to be eaten, and constant ablutions 
are exigent. Processions round the city are made, to levy 
contributions to defray the expenses of the Yamseh, and the 
making of the Grouhns. 

The men and children dress up in all the fantastic finery that 
can be procured, and with their faces painted, making most 
barbarous music with their tom-toms, they put one in mind of 
the procession of sweeps on May-day, in former times, in 
England. 

These Grouhns are a species of pagoda on wheels, made of 
bamboo bound very strongly together, and covered with gold 
and silver tinsel and many-coloured papers. 

They consist of several stories, the one at the base largest, 
and gradually diminishing in size upwards, terminating in a 
dome. Pretty Chinese paper lanterns are hung from all the 
corners, and, when to be used at night, are lit up from within 
also. One very large Grouhn, handsomely adorned with gold 
and silver paper, flowers and tinsel, is constructed with great 
ceremony.^ 

The three stories are each built in a separate hut, and when 
completed the side walls are thrown down, to allow each part to 
be carefully lifted out, lest by any accident the threshold of the 
door should be touched, which would bode evil. They are 
then firmly bound one over the other, and taken to the Temple, 
where the two river-found God and Prophet representatives are 
placed in it, and a watch is placed over it night and day till 
the Yamseh is over. 

On the evening of the ninth day, the ' Little Procession ' (as 

' The form of the Gouhns, however, varies greatly with the taste of the coustruc- 
tors, as will be seen in the illustration of one made on an estate. 

L 



138 A PROCESSION. [Cpi. X. 

it is called) takes place. The inferior Gouhns are carried on 
the heads of negroes hired for the purpose, not Mahommedans. 
Lighted lanterns, flags, brass crescents, and stars are carried 
aloft on sticks, and men, half nude and daubed with paint, fight 
with clubs and give and parry strokes with great dexterity. 
They parade through all the suburbs of the city, dancing and 
screaming till midnight, when they join the revelry at Plaine 
Verte. 

There those who have not been in the procession enjoy what 
they call a ' little amusement,' by way of breaking the mono- 
tony of the long religious festival. 

Large fires are lit, and in an enclosure of ropes hundreds 
congregate. The women and children sit round the fires, 
eating rice, cocoa cakes and sweetmeats, watching the men, 
and criticising in tolerably broad language their skill as they 
engage in single stick, leaping, dancing, and all kinds of rough 
games ; laughing, gesticulating, and shouting in all the dialects 
of the East. 

The impression left after witnessing the scene is, that one has 
spent a few hours on the confines of Pandemonium. 

Watch the weird flickering lights of the fires, spreading an 
unearthly hue over everything ; the groups of the half-nude 
savages (I say savages advisedly, as for the time being all trace 
of civilisation is lost) ; men, women, and children all more or 
less intoxicated, the latter mingling their shrill voices with the 
howling of the men — and at times there comes a stifling smell 
of incense, mingled with other odours indescribable ; and it 
needs little imagination to believe it a living, acted scene from 
Dante's Inferno, or the wild orgies and unholy revels of the 
Brocken on Walpurgis Night. 

The tenth is the grand day for which so many preparations 
have been made, and so many thousands of ells of crimson, 
pink, and yellow calicoes, muslins, and even silks have been sold 
for Indian vests and waist cloths. Black is never worn by the 
Indians in their native costumes. Grreen is a sacred colour, 
worn only by the higher classes, and by them for a badge of 
mourning alone. 

The procession is formed at the Temple, and the principal 
Grouhns are brought out and carried steadily along, the priests 
monotonously chanting round them. 



Ch. X.j INDIAN IDOLATRY. I39 

The smaller ones are carried by men who might be afflicted 
with St. Anthony's fire, for they unceasingly danced and whirled 
about like madmen. 

One part of the procession is formed by mourners for the 
brothers, wearing a piece of the sacred green stuff round their 
loins, beating their breasts, howling, and uttering crie^ of 
' Ya Hossein ! Oh Hossan !' and contests with blunt swords and 
sticks go on in all directions, in memory of the ensanguined 
field. 

The Lion that watched over the sacred remains of All's sons 
is represented by a brawny follower of the Prophet, whose skin 
is painted to imitate the tawny hide, and a goatskin thrown 
over his shoulders for a mane. 

He utters the most hideous roars as he rushes about the 
crowd, restrained by a cord held by a priest, 

Grroups dressed in little more than horns and tails, mon- 
strously streaked with paint, are supposed to be devils rejoicing 
at Hossein and Hossan's death, and they leap about, causing 
endless confusion. 

The sham combats with swords and clubs go on till the pro- 
cession reaches the river Latanier. 

The inferior Grouhns that have been injured are flung into 
the river, after being torn to atoms by the children. 

The large one is reverently lowered to the water's edge, and 
the god descends to his river bed, to sleep again for a year, and 
his pagoda is taken back to the Temple, to be decked up afresh 
on his awaking. 

The whole procession is then broken up, and the rabble rout 
return to finish their day in feasting. On the morrow, all but 
a few bons-a-rien return to their work, though the events of 
these ten days serve for topics of conversation for months to 
come. 

Formerly, real combats took place, and blood was often shed, 
till the police were obliged to interfere ; and now it is a 
comparatively quiet affair, few of the higher classes of 
Mahommedans taking part in it. 

The true Mahommedan element is fast dying out of this 
festival, and Indian superstition and idolatry usurping its 
place. 

Not one in five hundred knows anything of the origin of all 



I40 A PAINTED DEVIL. [Ch. X. 

this ; when asked they tell you to go to the priests, as it is their 
business to know all about it. 

They only know it as a recognised holiday, accompanied by 
unlimited strong drinks, feasting, and, dearer than even those to 
an Indian — noise ! 

On some of the estates the Yamseh is kept up with as much if 
not more preparation than in Port Louis, and the Grouhns are 
quite as fine, being subscribed for by all the Indians in the camp ; 
and they get leave from their masters to go round to the various 
private houses in the vicinity to display them and get money. 
The combatants with single sticks, and performers who cleverly 
twirl a long slender pole round their heads, keeping it spinning 
for some minutes, dancers and howlers to the tom-toms, 
accompany the Grouhns ; and they are generally well behaved, 
as a policeman is sure to put in an appearance where there is a 
group congregated. I once watched the painting of one of the 
devils : the fellow was seated in an old box, his arms straight down 
and head erect, while the artist knelt before him. He had just 
completed the body, with a heart over the chest, and white and 
coloured lines diverging from it in all directions, continued over 
the arms ; and at the moment of my arrival he was standing, with 
folded arms, contemplating his work, quite regardless of the 
rain then beginning to fall. He then proceeded to the face, 
which was rendered as hideous as paint could make it, the 
fellow's eyes glittering out of heavy rings of white paint. I 
remained till half was done, but not a word could be got from 
either, it was far too serious a matter. That the work was well 
done I had positive proof, for I saw it exposed to a good sharp 
shower with but little effect on it. 



CHAPTER XI. 

A VISIT TO BOUND ISLAND 

Departure from Port Louis — The Voyage — Arrival and Difficulty of Landing — Size 
and Formation of the Island — The Flora — Dinner — Preparations for sleeping 
— Fishing — Geological Description of the Island. 

From the many accounts that had been given me of the re- 
markable geological formation of Eound Island (which lies 
about twenty-five miles from Port Louis), and its peculiar Flora, 
differing in so many particulars from that of Mauritius and 
the neighbouring islands, I determined to avail myself of the 
first opportunity that offered and visit it. 

On December 6, 1868, I made an arrangement with Mr. 
Vandermeesch, the proprietor of the island, and Lieutenant 
Robinson of the Royal Artillery, to proceed thither on the 
following day. 

"We secured a good boat of about ten tons, and a stock of 
provisions was placed on board sufficient for the subsistence of 
seven men for some time. 

This precaution was especially necessary from the delightful 
uncertainty as to the result of our voyage. First, we might 
be overtaken by bad weather, when the island wotdd be un- 
approachable, and there was just a possibility of our being 
driven out to sea ; secondly, we might land and be unable to get 
off again for many days. 

Precisely as the gun fired from the Fort, or 8 clock, p.m., the 
hawser which held our neat little craft to the end of the 
Mauritius Dock was cast off, and our sail hoisted. 

The night was gloomy, and heavy clouds hung on the horizon 
indicative of rain, but now and then a few stars would peep out 
from the dark canopy, and cheer us on our way. 

The wind failed, and the men had to use their oars through 
the labyrinth of vessels in the harbour of Port Louis. 



142 A BOAT VOYAGE. [Ch. XL 

All was still, save the plash of the sweeps, as we glided through 
the silent waters. 

After considerable rowing, we reached the light-ship. Its 
rays flash brilliantly across the waves, and can be seen for many 
miles cheering the mariner on his way, or guiding him safely into 
port. Now we were fairly out in the deep waters of the Indian 
Ocean ; and a light breeze springing up, the oars were laid by, 
and our pretty little boat, the ' Beautiful Jane,' sailed along 
like a duck. Our crew was selected from the most skilful 
fishermen of Grrand Baie, and our skipper, an old Creole, knew 
every rock, reef, and current round the coast. The night being 
dark, a watch was set, lest we should run into any of the little 
fishing boats bound in a different direction. 

The time passed away pleasantly, spinning yarns about sharks 
and other monsters, together with a highly coloured descrip- 
tion of what I might expect to see on the morrow. 

When daylight appeared we found ourselves some miles in a 
northerly direction from Grunner's Quoin. With us the sea was 
smooth, though there was a swell from the north. 

Round Island then stood due east from us, at a distance of 
about ten miles. 

We were favoured with a fine breeze, which increased as old 
Sol raised his head from the ocean. The morning was bright 
and clear, doubly welcome and refreshing to those who had 
been breathing only the heavy fever-laden atmosphere of Port 
Louis for some time ; and especially to me, who had been suffer- 
ing for some days from the epidemic. Though tolerably calm 
with us, we could see the white foam breaking over the Quoin 
as the waves beat against its bold cliffs. 

The gentleness of heaven is on the sea. 
Listen ! the mighty being is awake, 
And doth with his eternal motion make 
A sound like thunder — everlastingly. 

But the sunrise ! Those who have never seen a sunrise at 
sea have reserved for them a glorious sight. This morning 
the orb of day rose in all his grandeur from out the wilderness 
of waters ; so placid and tranquil was the scene that I was invo- 
luntarily struck by its contrast with the fearful heavy swell roll- 
ing in over the shoal water between the Quoin and Cannonier's 
Point, breaking on the rocks -with a booming roar, threatening 



Ch. XL] ROUND ISLAND. 143 

destruction to any craft that ventured near them, and warning 
us to bear away and keep a good distance from the land. 

For the first time on this coast I saw a little stormy petrel, 
Thalassidro7)ia milanogaster. One solitary bird was following 
in our wake, swiftly and gracefully sweeping over the waves. 
This interesting creature is aptly reverenced by seamen ; for, 
diminutive as it is, it braves the fiercest storms, and ' skims 
o'er ocean's angriest flood.' 

At noon we arrived at our destination on the SE. of Round 
Island, and made preparations to disembark. 

I at once saw that what had been told me of the difficulty of 
landing was no exaggeration. Luckily our fishermen crew made 
their arrangements skilfully. The boat was allowed to drift 
^vithin a few feet of the table rock, our landing-place, against 
which the waves were breaking. 

At this stage we had to wait, and watch for an opportunity 
for one of our crew to jump ashore with a rope, so that the boat 
might be kept bow on and steady. When this was effected, 
the rope was securely fastened to iron rings placed there for that 
purpose years ago ; and then our provisions, water, &c., were 
passed on shore. 

When everything was safely landed, each one watched for the 
moment when the boat rose, and sprung on to the rock with a 
bound that made every nerve quiver ; and it needed a sure foot 
and steady eye to alight firmly on the slippery stone. 

If our little craft, which rose and fell some ten or twelve feet, 
had struck her bows on the precipitous ledge, she would have 
been hurled to Davy Jones's locker, and all in her in a few 
seconds. The depth of the water is about four fathoms here. 

When all were safely on shore, the boat was taken out to some 
distance from land and anchored, with two of her crew left 
on board to take care of her. 

Near the landing is a cave, made by an immense portion of 
detached rock having slidden off into the sea, leaving a cliff, 
which overhangs it, and forming a very good shelter from the 
tierce rays of the sun ; and in rainy weather, the water rushes 
in torrents over it, but does not enter. 

This cave rises from the sea, at an angle of forty-five degrees, 
for about a hundred feet, and is approached from the landing 
rock, on the right of it, by carefully stepping up the small 



144 A CA VE. [Ch. XI. 

projections on its sides. We descended about twelve feet, and 
then came to the floor of the cave, which we selected as the 
base of our operations. Into this we took all our worldly 
goods, and great care was needed to secure them from rolling 
into the sea. Lay down any solid article carelessly, and away 
it went, with a velocity that no efforts of ours could check, into 
the water, and was lost. 

After giving our orders to the men to prepare a meal for us, 
we started off exploring, each in a different direction. 

Eound Island is about a mile long by three quarters broad, 
of extremely irregular formation, frequently intersected by deep 
fissures which increase in width towards the sea, when they 
form singular openings and caves. At a distance it appears 
like one great solid mountain. 

The passage from the base upwards, through a gulch about 
700 feet, is rough and difficult. The most curious geological 
phenomena are to be seen in this gulch, which has, in the 
course of ages, been worn away by the elements. 

Distinctly visible are the different strata lying on each other, 
and well defining the different periods. The peculiar forms 
which these rocks take are very remarkable. Some parts re- 
semble the ruins of old Grothic structures ; others of a series of 
elegant pulpits, carved out of Eed Sandstone ; and many are like 
baptismal fonts, similar to those used at the present day, the 
whole forming a unique and singular formation. At this ele- 
vation is a tolerably open spot, easy of ascent. 

The whole island is covered with endogens, palms, vacoas, 
&c., among which I particularly noticed the following : one 
palm, supposed to be the Areca alba, or ' Chou palmiste,' which 
grows in Mauritius ; ^ a second, which is indigenous to Eound 
Island, in fact, unknown* in any other part of the world. This 
palm has long been called the Jubcea spectabilis, but this name 
is now proved to be an error.^ 

' With respect to this palm and others of the Round Island trees, I will quote 
some of the notes made by the Grovernor after their expedition, when he and 
Mr. Home studied the botany of this place. He was inclined to consider the one 
in question, not the Areca alba, but a separate species ; and says, 'It struck me at 
once, on seeing it in flower, that its red petals were quite different ; and Mr. Horna, 
on subsequent comparison, has found other structural variations in the blossom, also 
in the large anthers.' 

^ The slightest comparison will show the discrepancies between this palm and 



Ch. XL] FLORA OF ROUND ISLAND. 145 

A third palm, the Latania glaucophylla, grows in great 
abundance, and is believed also to be indigenous. A few plants 
have been found on Flat Island, but they are conjectured to 
have sprung from seeds washed up by the tides. 

The Pandanus Vandermeeschii is very numerous. This 
was discovered by the gentleman of that name (our companion), 
who sent specimens of it to the Botanical Grardens at Ghent, 
where they received the above name. This is quite different 
from the vacoa used for making sugar bags, the Pandanus 
utilis : this latter I did not see, though I ana told that some 
few plants have been found. 

Bound the summit of the mountain I saw a species of aloe 
which I have not met with in Mauritius.^ A report on Eound 
Island was written twenty-five years ago by a Colonel Lloyd, an 
engineer, who went there for the purpose of examining it. He 
mentions a belt of forest trees, such as bois rond, ebony, benzoin, 
&c. ; but they must have been nearly all cut down or destroyed, 
as we found few traces of them.^ 

A few patches of rough grasses enliven this rugged island, 
and on them feed numbers of rabbits and goats, but wild as the 
proverbial ' March hare.' The Ijpomoea maritima grows at an 
elevation of 800 feet, the seeds, doubtless, having been brought 
hither by birds. 

The only fern I found was a small species of the Adiantuni 
caudatum, so common in Mauritius, which seems to flourish 

the true Juhcsa spectabilis of Chili, which is stated to be a lofty palm, whilst the 
Round Island tree never exceeds fifteen feet. The spathe surrounding the blossom 
of the former is monophyllous, that of the latter has eight or nine leaves, and the 
flowers differ in almost every particular. The fruit of the one is a little cocoa- 
nut with three perforations atthe top, that of the other a small green berry : from 
the latter, as well as from other circumstances, indeed, I fully expect to hear that 
the Round Island palm turns out to be a species of Areea, an idea in which I have 
been confirmed by learning from Mr. Home that the somewhat similar palm from 
Rodriguez, styled Jubcea speciosa, has been recently described in Holland as the 
•Areca Verschaffeltii. 

' 'It is proved to be quite different from the " Socotrine du pays " of Mauritius, 
and is probably new.' 

2 * The belt of hard-wood timber mentioned by Colonel Lloyd is confined to the 
central ridge of the summit, a few trees only existing. The presence of that narrow 
belt of trees, with the analogies and discrepancies they present when compared with 
those of the adjacent main island, is certainly one of the most puzzling problems 
presented by this curious little islet.' 



146 SNAKES AND BIRDS. [Ch. XI. 

best among rocks in the hardest and driest soilJ The 
Kound Island fern appears a variety from the Mauritian type, 

T captured a number of lizards, spiders, scorpions, phasmas, 
and other insects, but will give an account of them later. One 
of my comrades killed a snake of the Colubra tribe, about two 
feet long, and two inches in circumference. The back was 
mottled with black and white spots, and the belly reddish with 
black markings. It was what a naturalist would call an ugly 
customer : it does not run from you, but elevates its head at your 
approachr and prepares to give battle. A large one was seen by 
one of the fishermen, who said it was six or seven feet long, and 
as large round as his arm. He was carrying a long pole on his 
shoulder, at each end of which were suspended several Pailles- 
en-queues, or tropic birds {Phaeton rubricauda). The snake 
reared his head to attack him, when he dropped the pole to 
pick up a stone to throw at it ; but the birds made such a noise 
that the reptile slunk away into a heap of vacoa leaves near by, 
and he lost it. 

Towards the NE. I came suddenly to the edge of a deep gorge 
before I was aware of it, formed by torrents of water pouring 
down it for ages. In some places it is 500 or 600 feet deep ; 
and as I stood on its brink to look down into the abyss below, 
over the tops of the palms that fill its sides, I shuddered as I 
thought of the fall I should have had if I had gone over. 

At the foot of the gorge, opening out to the sea, the rocks are 
shelving, and in little holes in them sat numbers of Pailles-en- 
queues on their solitary eggs. These beautiful birds did not 
attempt to move away from me, but merely uttered a shrill cry, 
and prepared for resistance if disturbed. They do not build any 
nest, but lay their one egg on the bare rock. It is of a reddish 
brown, speckled with dark spots, and is about the size of a 
duck's egg. 

Young birds quite as large as their parents were easily cap- 
tured by the men, who prized them for food, but I should fancy 
they must taste very fishy. The plumage of the young is quite 
different from that of the old ones, being mottled black and 
white. I did not see a single instance of a young bird on the 
wing ; and I believe it is only in the second year that they get 

' As my time was so limited, I was unable to do more than make a very cursory 
examination of the botany of the island; I will add extracts from the reports of the 
fjovernor and Mr. Home at the end of the chapter. 



Ch. XI.] A MOUNTAIN. 147 

their full feathers. It was curious to see every ledge filled with 
young birds, from the downy fluffy ball, as large as a small 
chicken, to those of the size of the parent birds, each one sitting 
huddled up against the mother, and uttering notes of alarm in 
every sharp key their unmusical voices are capable of. 

I saw a good many petrels (Pufinus chlororhyncus) sitting 
in the same locality. These birds also lay a single egg, quite 
white, as large as a hen's. There were no young about, and the 
eggs were all fresh that I took. I observed no other birds, and 
these seemed only to resort thither for the purpose of incuba- 
tion at certain seasons of the year. I brought away eight or 
nine tropic birds, all taken sitting, and, strange to say, they were 
all males. 

The Hon. Edward Newton, the Colonial Secretary, visited the 
island some years ago, and published a pamphlet on its 
ornithology, in which he states he observed the turtle dove 
(Geopelia striata) of Gray, petrels, and tropic birds ; and he 
thought these were all ever found there. 

JL arrived at the top of the mountain, which is 1,000 feet 
above sea level by Elliot's barometer, and where stands a huge 
block of basalt, ten or fifteen feet high, which is the crowning 
point ; up this I climbed, and a magnificent view lay around me. 
Looking down the almost perpendicular face of the NE. side of 
the island, thickly studded with small shrubs, and apparently 
inaccessible, thousands of the tropic birds were seen hovering 
about, uttering their sharp shrill cries, doubtless from the foot- 
steps of man having intruded on what they had so long deemed 
their own domain. Westward lay Serpent's Island with its 
wintry appearance, white over with guano as with snow, which, 
though half a mile or more distant, seemed but a step from 
this elevated position. Flat Island and the Quoin appeared close 
by. The atmosphere was so clear that the coast-line of Mauritius, 
as far as Grrand Eiver, SE., was mapped out distinctly, and 
everywhere glistened the heavy billows of the brilliant blue 
ocean, and the white spray tossed up from every reef added 
beauty to the scene. Being hot, tired, and hungry, I descended, 
with the determination of studying the geology of the island on 
the morrow. 

As soon as I reached our cave, I was delighted to find my 
friends with everything prepared to satisfy the inner man. 1 



148 SLEEPING QUARTERS. [Ch. XL 

cannot refrain from saying a few words in praise of our Commis- 
sary-Greneral, who deserved a cordon d'honneur for his excel- 
lent arrangements for our comfort. I then first ate the heart 
of the cabbage palm cut up into salad, and found it delicious, 
worthy of all the encomiums I had heard lavished on it ; but it 
must be eaten when fresh to be tasted in perfection. 

We did full justice to the viands, and then began our arrange- 
ments for the night. This is a very ticklish place for a somnam- 
bulist or a nervous person to sleep in. A roll — a turn over — 
and down you must go into the surging billows at the foot of 
the rock, with the pleasant anticipation of the immense sharks, 
and other monsters of the deep that swarm round the place, 
ready to take you in at a mouthful or two the moment you 
touch the water. Thus, as I said before, it is a ticklish place, 
and required great care in arranging our beds. Two small 
hammocks were ingeniously swung from the sides of the cave 
for two of us ; but my other comrade, though a young soldier, 
is an old campaigner in this line, and preferred to sleep on the 
bare rock under the cliff, which he did. We passed a pleasant 
night, lulled to sleep by the monotonous roar of the waters 
round us. 

We were up at daylight, but the morning broke gloomily, and 
dark clouds indicated rain ; the barometer had fallen, and the 
sea ran high, making us uneasy, as we feared a coming storm. 
A smart shower of rain, however, accompanied by thunder and 
lightning, smoothed down the sea considerably, and, soon after, 
a magnificent rainbow spanned the dark arch of heaven. 

As the weather was so uncertain, our skipper would not let 
us go exploring, as he said he might want us to embark at any 
moment ; so I amused myself fishing at the entrance of our cave. 

Fish in myriads were swimming about the detached rocks. I 
never saw a more beautiful sight. The splendid Helicanthus 
Imperadore, a marvellous variety of Cheitodons, many of the 
genus Serranus, Dame Berris, and others, all bright-coloured, 
were swimming about gracefully in the transparent waters. 

I have seen the bright-plumaged birds and insects of South 
America in their native wilds, but the fish of the Indian Ocean 
can vie with the most gorgeous of them. They lose their beauty 
so rapidly when caught, that to be truly appreciated they must 
be seen in their native element. Now and then a shark would 



Ch. XL] A SOUFFLEUR. 149 

show his ugly head, when the rest disappeared as if by magic. 
The brute would look at me with his bright eye, and grin, 
showing his ghastly maw, as if in anticipation of the meal he 
hoped to get out of me should I slip over the ledge. 

About 200 yards from ours was another cave, inaccessible to 
man. The waves would rush into it for some distance, when 
the confined air would force them back to the opening with a 
thundering roar, and throw the water up in volumes of spray 
for a hundred feet around. I thought, as I watched the foam- 
ing, seething mass, that the Souffleur at Grrand Port in its an- 
griest moments could not be compared to this. At 7 a.m. the 
clouds dispersed, the sun shone out brilliantly, and our skipper 
thought it safe, after breakfast, to make another excursion, of 
which permission I lost no time in availing myself. 

This island is evidently formed by upheaval from the bottom 
of the ocean ; it is in fact a crater of upheaval or elevation, 
which formation lies in strata or laminated beds of friable 
brownish volcanic sandstone and tufa. These beds are here 
found inclined all round the axis of the cone, rising more and 
more from the base to the summit. In one of the fissiu-es to 
the NE. immense numbers of lines of stratification are dis- 
tinctly seen, indicating the different periods at which they 
were formed. 

More than six hundred feet from the surface, I observed 
pieces of detached basaltic rocks imbedded in the sandstone, 
which is entirely sedimentary deposit. For ages upon ages the 
formation of these beds was going on, and layer on layer was 
piled up, almost every one of which has a deposit of lava and 
scoria on its surface, and these are well seen wherever openings 
or fissures occur. 

My opinion is that, at the time of upheaval, the whole mass 
was in a plastic conglomerate state. This conclusion I have 
arrived at from the peculiar undulating position in which the 
stratified layers are found, and that is visible almost every- 
where. 

Not a fossil or water-mark could I see in the different strata 
below the surface ; but above it were fragments of a white 
rock, similar to variegated marble, in which lay fossil shells, 
mostly microscopic. These were evidently compact masses of 
limestone, probably having undergone a partial metamornhic 



ISO VOLCANIC ACTION. [Ch. XI. 

process. The fossil shells are indefinite in outline, and appear 
mere patclies of white crystalline carbonate of lime, which a 
few centuries longer of exposure would doubtless leave merely 
as white veinings or blotches. 

The general geological features of Eound Island stand as a 
key, to open out to us the immensity of the periods in which 
the volcanic action was going on here and at the Mauritius, 
and are a convincing proof that since these isolated rocks were 
upheaved an immeasurable interval of time must have elapsed. 

Near and round the top and centre of the island are groups 
of volcanic rocks, many tons in weight, but there is no appear- 
ance of any flow of lava. These rocks may have been thrown 
from some neighbouring volcano, and deposited where they 
now lie, before the upheaval of the island. There is not the 
least sign of any depression, or indication of a crater, on the 
summit. Long after the upheaval of Eound Island, volcanic 
action was still vigorous at Mauritius and in its vicinity. Sub- 
marine volcanoes were active, which rose above the sea and 
were again depressed. The Diamond Rock and others, appearing 
so near the surface that the waves break over them in the 
calmest weather, are evidently the tops of very high sub- 
merged mountains whi^ch were once, in all probability, united 
to the main-land. At the Table Rock, where we landed, is a 
flow of lava from the SW., which is filled with detached pieces 
of scoria, similar to that at the Mauritius, but differing from 
that in the strata of this island. 

The current of lava flowed back against the bold and in- 
accessible sides of Round Island, cooling in waves, and remain- 
ing a silent witness to the wonderful agency at work at that 
time. Although this current was many feet in thickness, the 
little bluff or table rock is all that remains of it, as the volcano 
which furnished it, and the flow of which this is a part, dis- 
appeared below the sea. 

Islands thus formed by upheaval are likely to disappear as 
suddenly. Most of them do so after a longer or shorter period, 
either by being abraded by the constant wash of the waves, or 
disintegrated by the elements, especially by the chemical action 
of light, or by their mass sinking into an abyss formed beneath 
them. 

This last circumstance must have happened to one of the 



Ch. XI.J 



CREATIVE CONVULSIONS. 



151 



Azores, elevated in 1719, and which disappeared in 1723, leaving 
in its place a depth of seventy fathoms ; and to another island 
in the same region in 1638, where there is now a fathomless 
abyss. 

The vapour, ashes, and scoria ejected from the volcanoes of 
Mauritius and its neighbourhood, which continued through all 
the successive periods of the deposits forming Eound Island, as 




A PERN. 



shown by the sprinkling of them in each layer of the sandstone, 
must have been dense enough to darken the sun, and intercept 
the light of day. I do not believe it possible for man to have 
been a witness of the horrors accompanying the eruptions and 
convulsions of the early ages of this planet. We have here, 
I think, another proof of the Divine forethought for man, that 
the greater part of these terrific convulsions took place before 
the era of human life — convulsions on so fearful a scale that 
man could scarcely look on them and live ; yet they prepared 
the earth for him to have his being on it. 



152 REFLECTIONS. [Ch. XI. 

We have, occasionally, eruptions and earthquakes awful 
enough when they do occur ; but still even the worst of them, 
within historic record, are as nothing to what geology teaches 
must have taken place in the Pre-Adamite world. May they 
not have been sent as warnings of the instability of even the 
earth itself? — warnings from the Grreat Power, 'which re- 
moveth the mountains and they know it not, which shaketh 
the earth out of her place, and the pillars thereof tremble ;' and 
that surely as ' the mountain cometh to nought, and the rock 
is removed out of its place ; as the water wears the stones, and 
washes away the things that grow out of the dust of the earth,' 
so even may man's hope be destroyed if he lift not up his heart 
for help ' from Nature unto Nature's God ' ? 



CHAPTER XII. 

MY SECOND VISIT TO BOUND ISLAND. 

Invitation — The Voyage — Arrival — Object of Visit — My Share of the Work— 
Dinner — Departure of the ' Victoria ' — Oicr Preparations for the Night, and the 
Storm's — ' In Thunder, Lightning, and in Eain ' — Our Exodus from the Cave — 
Night and Morning — Preparations for Breakfast —Entomology under Difficulties 
— Sail ho ! — Homeward bound — In Port Louis at last — Fauna of Eound Island 
— Extracts from Sir H. Barkly's Eeport. 

Eaelt in November of 1869, I received an invitation from 
H. E. Sir H. Barkly to accompany him, with several other 
gentlemen, to Round Island. This expedition was entirely for 
scientific purposes, to make collections of the fauna and flora of 
that island. 

The ' witching hour of night ' of November 9 saw us all 
assembled on board the port steamer ' Victoria,' commanded on 
this special occasion by the superintendent of the mercantile 
marine. We slowly steamed out of the harbour, the silence of 
night broken at intervals by the words of command — ' port,' 
' starboard,' or ' steady,' as the case might be. A very pleasant 
party His Excellency had assembled on the little craft, where 
everything had been put in capital order, and his aide-de-camp 
was untiring in his efforts to make everyone as comfortable as 
possible. 

Merrily, merrily flew our barque 
Over the bounding sea. 

And though Luna had long retired to rest, the sky was cloud- 
less. Some of us remained aft, smoking, most of the night, 
indulging in pleasant anticipations of our sojourn on the 
island, and laying out plans for our work. 

We arrived at our destination soon after daylight, dropped 
anchor, and prepared at once for landing. By this time our 
cloudless sky had given place to strong indications of rain, and 

M 



154 ^y WORK. [Ch. XII. 

heavy clouas hung over the mountain top. The sea was, how- 
ever, perfectly smooth, most remarkably so for this quarter, and 
our landing on the old table rock was effected without difficulty. 
The present lessee of the island was there, waiting to receive 
us, and, in honour of the Grovernor's visit, had previously 
erected a curious and ingenious landing bridge, in order to 
avoid the trouble and danger we had formerly experienced. 
The contrivance answered admirably, and in a short time all 
were landed, with our scientific apparatus. 

We proceeded at once to the cave of former pleasant me- 
mories, and, to our surprise, found still the same kindly fore- 
thought awaiting us that had designed the bridge. A table was 
erected, with a supply of excellent cafe au lait, &c., particularly 
refreshing after our voyage, and to which all did ample justice. 

Soon after, we separated into groups, each person with some 
definite object in view. The Grovernor, with a small party of 
assistants, started off botanising ; several other gentlemen, 
shouldering their guns, strode off to wage relentless warfare 
against the feathered tribes. 

While all my friends were thus engaged in the pursuit of 
scientific knowledge under the most agreeable aspects, I was 
not idle. I had been entrusted with the zoological department 
generally, and was determined nothing should escape me. I was 
well prepared for action, with jars, bottles, and implements of tax- 
idermy, so that specimens could be preserved on the spot. I com- 
menced operations by climbing up the ledges of rocks, and, down 
on all fours, was soon busy robbing the Fouquets and Pailles-en- 
queues of their young and eggs, and poking them out of the holes 
of the rocks with a long stick ; thus exciting the ire of the parent 
birds, which displayed itself in a peculiar sobbing, mournful 
cry, and by showing fight with beak and wings. Frequently, 
in routing them out, I met with a different customer, such as a 
snake, lizard, or spider, all of which were game to my net. The 
taxidermist at the college was my auxiliary, and the old fellow 
looked with astonishment as I pulled out the birds without 
getting bitten. Scattered over the island as we were, our party 
was enabled to do a great deal in a short space of time. Many 
curious plants were discovered by the botanists, and I under- 
stand one entirely new palm was found by His Excellency. 

After exploring the deep gorges, and scrambling up the steep 



Ch. XII.] PREPARATIONS. 155 

mountain's side, all re-assembled in the cave for rest and refresh- 
ment, some notably showing fatigue, arising from being un- 
accustomed to rough climbing. I had a great advantage there 
from long habit ; for, though I had been on the move all day, 
1 was still fresh, and highly delighted with the additional 
knowledge I had gained of the island. 

Slight showers had fallen in the day ; and towards three 
o'clock there were unmistakable signs of a coming storm, and 
our captain proposed our leaving at once, not even deeming it 
prudent to wait for dinner. The latter proposition was, how- 
ever, negatived, nem. con.^ and with anxious looks he was obliged 
to give in ; but dinner over, which every one was inclined to 
make the most of, the excitement about the weather giving a 
double zest to our viands, our captain would hear of no longer 
delay, and preparations were quickly made for returning. He 
declared that if the boat did not soon leave, embarkation would 
become impossible. About two o'clock my own barometer 
showed sudden change, and the captain was equally aware of it, 
and, as an old practical seaman, was anxious not to be caught in 
such perilous quarters in a storm. I think the whole party 
may thank his judgment, in hurrying matters, for their all 
getting off safely. 

* Not satisfied with my own investigations in the one day, 
Mr. Vandermeesch and myself, with servants, resolved to re- 
main that night on the island, and ascend to the top of the 
mountain by daylight next morning, to examine the north 
side, which I had not been able to do in my first visit. 

As the ' Victoria ' left, we gave our parting friends three 
cheers for a safe and speedy homeward passage, to which they 
heartily responded in good wishes for us ; and it was with not 
a little regret I quitted such pleasant society. 

When we had watched the steamer some distance, we all set to 
work with a will to make preparations for the night at the ex- 
tremity of the cave described in my first visit. 

Provisions and water enough for forty-eight hours had been 
left us by H. E., and the Surveyor-Greneral's boat, with six men 
in it, was placed at our disposal, and lay at anchor about half a 
mile from the shore. Busy as we were, the elements were col- 
lecting their forces more energetically still ; and at half-past six 
the sea suddenly began to roll in heavily, and very soon volumes 



156 A STORM. [Ch. XII. 

of vvater ten or twelve feet deep poured over the table rock, 
where our party had embarked only two hours previously. The 
wash of the waves swept off our water casks, that were about 
fifty yards from it, and at an elevation of about twenty-five feet ; 
and they were not long before they surged into the cave, nearly 
reaching the spot where we stood watching the scene in dismay, 
and cutting off our retreat. 

The captain of the boat, as soon as he saw the sudden change 
in the weather, raised his anchor and scudded off before the wind, 
and we soon lost sight of him in the heavy rolling billows. 

All efforts now were turned to securing everything as far as 
was practicable ; but the night was well set in before we had 
finished, and the whole sky was overcast with heavy clouds. 
The reverberations of the deep rolling thunder made the moun- 
tain tremble, and the vivid flashes of lightning occasionally 
lit up the foaming, seething mass of waters below us, madly 
dashing against the rocks, the spray thoroughly drenching us. 

Then came the rain in a deluge to add to our troubles ; and 
it was not long before the torrents rushing down the mountain 
poured over the precipice forming the roof to our cave, in a 
cascade twenty feet wide, bringing with them stones of all sizes, 
that struck the bottom of the cave with great force, and then 
bounded off into the sea, now and then giving us a sharp blow. 
Here we remained, the sea gradually encroaching on our quarters, 
till we were obliged to crowd in the farthest corners, and hold 
on to prevent our being washed away. Matters were getting too 
exciting to be pleasant, and we felt some effort must be made 
to escape from our perilous position. 

The day before, a long rope had been strongly attached to the 
rock above, and one end was hanging down over the precipice; but 
unluckily it had been placed on the lowest part, where the hea- 
viest body of water was falling. Fortunately the rope was long, 
and my comrade emerged from his hiding-place, and, watching 
his chance, seized the rope, and, holding on like grim death, 
managed to draw it in, and worked it along away from the cas- 
cade, thus succeeding in hitching it over the projecting side of 
the rock, which showed a perpendicular face about thirty feet 
high. I never saw anything more bravely done, and at the risk 
jf his life, for, a false step, and nothing could have saved him ; as 



Ch, XII.] A PERILOUS POSITION. 157 

it was, he got a severe contusion on his head and side from a 
stone striking him, 

Nothing daunted, the plucky little fellow, as the smallest and 
lightest man amongst us, was the first to ascend the rope ; and 
I confess the time we were waiting for the welcome signal of 
his safe arrival was one of awful suspense, for it was a mere 
chance if the rope held out, or if he could fight against the 
wind and driving rain. 

At last, to our great joy, above the roar of the elements we 
heard his welcome ' all right ! ' I next ascended, and, divested of 
all but an old blue shirt and trowsers, I grasped the rope and 
swung on to the projecting cliff, and commenced mounting, 
hand over hand. It was nervous work, swinging thus in mid 
air, between life and death, as a slip would have sent me into 
the yawning gulf below. I was soon high enough to rest my 
feet on the side of the rock, and could hear my friend urging 
lue on in a voice that seemed to come from the clouds. I felt 
deeply thankful when I arrived at the top, in spite of my hands 
and feet being lacerated and bleeding, and my body bruised all 
over, to say nothing of the loss of the greater part of my un- 
whisperables. We then managed to get up the four men, for- 
tunately without further accident than bruises and rags similar 
to our own. I must say the men all behaved well, and showed 
a resolute spirit to battle with the unpleasant position we were 
in ; and luckily for us, for one coward might have imperilled 
the lives of all. 

It was after midnight, as well as we could guess, when the 
last man reached the top ; and our troubles were far from ended. 
The rain, thunder, and lightning were incessant, and our foot- 
hold was very precarious, and compelled us to hold on to the 
projections of the rocks. To thoroughly appreciate our position, 
it should be understood that the mountain here rises at an angle 
of about sixty degrees, and the sticks and stones rushing down 
with the torrents of water as they swept by us, added to our 
bruises, and assisted wofully in the desintegration of our gar- 
ments. 

The roar of the sea was deafening, and every high wave that 
struck the rock sent its spray over us, high up as we were ; and 
we dared not advance, lest we should fall into one of the gorges 



158 A HARD LOT, [Ch. XII. 

that are frequent en the mountain side, so there was nothing 
for it but to hold on. 

Pluck and patience must now prevail ; 
'Twas no use quaking and turning pale. 

The ocean round us was so white with foam, that as the 
glare of the lightning revealed it to us it resembled a vast 
field of billowy snow. Though we were in such a perilous po- 
sition ourselves, we forgot it momentarily to think of the little 
boat that lately left, and shuddered to conjecture its possible 
fate, as no boat built by human hands could have lived in so 
wild a storm. 

There we clung till daylight gradually unfolded our piteous 
plight — six half-drowned, ragged, and bruised, miserable spe- 
cimens of humanity, lying face down to the wet rocks, waiting 
for it to be light enough to grope our way above the reach of 
the salt spray. But moving was no easy matter, sore and stiff 
as we were. To add to our troubles, we began painfully to 
realise that we were without food and water. 

The sea still beat against the rocks heavily, but the sky was 
clear and cloudless ; and very welcome we found the cheering rays 
of the sun. The bridge, erected with so much care, was washed 
away, as well as the table in the cave where we had so heartily 
enjoyed our dinner the day before, and everything not swept 
out of the cave was thoroughly drenched. A fishing net we had 
used in the afternoon was still safe, and the men managed to 
drag the pools in the cavities of the rocks, into which numbers 
of fish had been thrown up in the storm, and captured some ; 
but how to cook them was the question, which was settled by 
the men collecting dead palm and vacoa leaves, and spreading 
them out to dry for fire-wood. My friend and I hobbled about 
in search of Pailles-en-queue eggs and fresh water ; the latter 
unattainable till we got to the summit of the mountain, where 
we found a pool of rain water, from which a herd of wild goats 
was drinking. We collected a quantity of eggs, but were at a loss 
how to carry them, till necessity, stern mother of invention, 
came to my aid, and, with the help of a leathern strap round my 
waist, I made a bag of my shirt. 

To our great delight on our descent, we found the men had 
lit a fire with a common tin metal tinder-box, luckily kept shut 



Ch. XII.] WAITING. 159 

and dry, and were broiling the fish. Our eggs made a capital 
omelette a VIsle Ronde, and with a palmiste salad we fared 
sumptuously. The sun, in the course of the day, dried up 
everything outside, but our cave was still inaccessible, as the 
sea had not yet subsided ; so we had to look out for sleeping 
quarters, which we found in a hole high up in the rock. Hard 
as our bed was, we slept soundly till next morning, in defiance 
of the cold breeze which played over our rag-covered limbs. 
By daylight all were up, anxiously gazing round the horizon 
for a sail, as we hoped our boat had gone to Mapou Bay, and 
would come for us when the storm was over — but no boat 
greeted our longing eyes. My hands and feet were so swollen 
that I could scarcely use them, and my poor friend's eye and face 
were in a sad state ; but we still managed to crawl after more 
fresh eggs, while the men drew the net again. The sea was 
sufficiently down for us to enter our cave to collect the few 
things not washed away ; and I was delighted to find that my 
jars of insects, &c., collected the first day, and which I had wedged 
in a crevice of the rock, were still intact. Near my sleeping- 
berth that was to have been I found a good-sized snake, and, a 
little higher up, a large scorpion over four inches in length, 
both driven in by stress of weather. One of the men brought 
me a five-inch-long centipede in his bare hand, and was about to 
break off the mandibles, when I begged for the specimen entire. 
Afterwards I saw many that had been carried down the side of 
the mountain in the streams. 

Time hung heavily with us, which it certainly would not 
have done but for our disabled state, so we selected a nice 
cool place, and lay down to rest our weary bones ; exploring was 
out of the question. We had made up our minds we should 
have to remain for some days, so determined to make the best of 
it. We had found a place where a cliff projects over a gully, 
and where, in the absence of rain, we could make a comfortable 
sleeping-place — barring the snakes, lizards, and centipedes ; and 
here we lay, snugly ensconced in our holes, with a full view • of 
the ocean. 

About two o'clock, a fishing-boat was seen to the north of us 
and we tried to attract attention by hoisting a flag made of one 
of our ragged garments. They soon saw us, but were afraid to come 
close in ; yet, after some pressing, they consented to take one of 



i6o A SAFE RETURN. [Ch. XII. 

us who would spring off the rock into the boat, it being too 
rough to allow it to touch. I proposed that my friend should 
go and leave me with the men, but he said he preferred remain- 
ing to see what he could save ; and besides, he wanted to come 
direct to Port Louis, and the men would only go to Mapou. 
There was no time to lose, so, wishing my brave comrade good- 
bye, and promising to send him relief as soon as possible, I 
watched my chance as the waves receded, and sprang to the 
deck of the boat, but came down with such a shock that I should 
have pitched head first but for the skipper's catching me in 
his brawny arms. The boat headed for Mapou, where I 
landed about six o'clock, barefooted, coatless, and ragged, and was 
obliged to take refuge in a Chinaman's shop from the wondering 
gaze of all the coloured ladies of the village ! After buying a 
loaf and box of sardines, I was glad to hide myself in a carriole 
and start for the city, thankful that the moon had not yet 
risen. 

On my arrival at Port Louis, I learnt that the Surveyor- 
Greneral's boat had not returned. I at once sent off the carriole 
man with instructions to the fishermen to leave by daylight in 
the morning to fetch the rest of the party, and I had the 
pleasure of seeing my friend safely (if not soundly) back on 
Sunday. 

On the night of our adventure, our boat was carried out to sea, 
and it was only with the greatest skill and care it had been kept 
afloat in the storm ; and it was not till two days later that the 
captain was enabled to reach Mapou Bay, with all hands safe. 

I should state that the ' Victoria ' steamer had great difficult}'^ 
in reaching the harbour safely, on account of the high wind, 
and heavy sea and intense darkness. The atmosphere was also 
so fully charged with electricity that the compasses were 
seriously affected by it. 

When I came to examine the various specimens of natural 
history I had collected in my two visits to Round Island, I found 
them most interesting. 

I had four distinct species of lizards, ^ one of which was over a 
foot in length, mottled gray on the back, white on the belly and 
feet, and excessively plump and clumsy, and which bears the 

' As I then thought, from their varied size and coloiirs 



Ch. XII.] LIZARDS. l6i 

name of Scincus Telfairii. I met with it in almost every part 
of the island, and very tame ; so much so that it was easily 
captm-ed. It was difficult, however, to get a perfect specimen, 
on account of the animal throwing off its tail when handled — 
a peculiarity of this genus. It had a curious jerking motion, 
running a little way, and then stopping abruptly. 

The second in size which I captured was about six inches in 
length ; it is a pretty active little creature, generally found in the 
steep rocks on the sides of the mountain, but not so numerous 
as the first-mentioned. These lizards deposit from six to twelve 
white eggs, the size of an ounce musket-ball, in a row on the 
branches of the Latania glaucophylla, which I could not detach 
without breaking, so firmly were they glued to the bark. I 
belies e this lizard is as yet undescribed. 

The third species, the Scincus Bojerii, is very small, of a dark 
colour, with light stripes across the back. This is very active, and 
with difficulty captured : it was, however, numerous though shy. 
I looked in vain for the eggs of this lizard, as well as for those 
of the Telfairii, turning over stones and heaps of cacoa leaves 
without success. This lizard is the same as the one so common 
in Mauritius (Platydactylus Cepedianus). 

The fourth lizard is about four inches in length, slender and 
active, darting about in every direction, but not easily caught. 
Its colour was dark olive, with longitudinal light stripes. This 
is the Scincus Boutonii. 

These Scinci, with the exception of the Bajerii and 
Platydactylus, I have never seen in Mauritius, nor do I think 
they exist here. 

I mentioned having found one species of snake in my first 
visit, but in my second exploration I obtained four other differ- 
ent snakes ; one of them about four feet in length, and six inches 
in circumference. Another small serpent reared and flattened its 
head so much that I concluded it was poisonous. It was very 
pugnacious and bold. At that time, however, I had lost my glass, 
and could not examine its teeth ; but later inspection induced me 
to believe it was also a Colubra, and harmless. Unlike any other 
snake that I know, it glides with extreme rapidity over the 
ground, with its head elevated. 

Mauritius might well have been visited by the Irish saint : 
for not any snake has ever been known here, as native, which 



i62 SPIDERS. [Ch. XII. 

makes it so remarkable when they are so very abundant in a 
little island within twenty-five miles of it. 

I was fortunate enough to find a great number of Grasteropoda 
of the genus Cyclostoma, which bear the name, I believe, of 
the Choemiostoma ; and it is not found anywhere else in the 
known world, except at Flat, and perhaps at Serpent Islands. 
It has a red mouth, and is twice the size of the G. Lesteri, found 
at Maiuitius. 

I took several species of spiders. The largest were, I think, 
of the genus Phryne, noted for the excessive tenuity of the 
anterior feet, flattened bodies, and palpi resembling feet termi- 
nating in claws, and bearing a resemblance to scorpions deprived 
of their tails. This genus is, I believe, principally known in 
America, Seychelles, and the East Indies, but I know nothing- 
like it in Mauritius. 

In the ' Dictionnaire des Sciences naturelles,' at p. 56, is 
figured a Phryne reniforme, resembling the Eound Island 
spiders, except in the termination of the palpi. The latter end 
in two long forked spines, and three short simple ones, exclusive 
of the sharply-pointed claw ; and the palpi are of a uniform 
thickness, and covered with short bristly spines : whereas the 
Phryne reniforme has the palpi small at the base, but increasing 
in bulk to the claw, and edged with a fringe of long spines. 
M. Vinson, who has written a large work on the ' Mascarene 
Arachnids,' does not even mention the genus. 

One spider very much resembles the Mauritian Olios leucosa 
in form, colour, and naanner of holding its egg-bag ; another 
has the silver bands on the body, very similar to the Epeira 
Mauritia (Vinson) ; and one is, I think, very similar to the 
genus Thomisus (Dumeril), but I do not recollect meeting with 
it in Mauritius. 

On the broken leaves of the cacao I saw a number of small 
scorpions, two of which I caught. They seem entirely different 
from those in the main island, or from specimens I have seen 
from the rest of the Mascarene group or the East Indies. 

On my first visit to Eound Island I captured a scorpion of a 
bright green, just the colour of the leaves of the Jubsea palm 
it was disporting on. The creature was very active and defiant, 
and it was with difficulty I caught him. The length of tail is 
remarkable compared with all the others. I think it must be 



Ch. XIL] SCORPIONS. 165 

rare, as I diligently searched for it during my second visit, but 
without success. Though 1 failed to find another green one, 
I came upon a formidable and ugly-looking animal — a third 
species of scorpion. It appears to be common in the crevices 
of the rocks, and under the stones round the summit of the 
mountain. It is most pugnacious, and, when headed off from 
its retreat, shows fight by raising the palpi, and clapping them 
together, making a clicking noise like a crab. 

This scorpion measured 8 J inches from the tip of the palpi 
to the tail. The palpi measure 3J inches in length, and are 
If in circumference. The body and legs are brown, and the 
palpi black. I tried hard to capture another that was running 
off very fast over the stones, with what I took to be a Scincus 
Boutonii in its claws. 

I have examined some specimens of scorpions in the Museum, 
but I can find nothing exactly like the large Eound Island one. 

Centipedes abounded. The large one I got from one of the men 
had its full complement of legs, namely, twenty-one pairs, giving 
forty-two feet. It is, I believe, the Scolopendre 'mordante of 
Dumeril (^Scolopendra Tnorsitans of Linnaeus). It appears to 
me to differ from the Mauritian centipedes, but resembles some 
I have seen from Eodrigues and the East Indies. 

During my visit in 1868 I caught a singular bee on the 
flowers of the Ipomoea maritima. Its general colour was 
a deep crimson, striated on the body with bright yellow. There 
are many specimens of bees in the Museum from different parts 
of the world, but I could find none resembling it in colour and 
markings. 

I saw only one dragon-fly on the island — a common Libellula 
in Mauritius. It is very possible this may have been blown 
from the main island, as it is an insect of such strong and 
rapid flight. 

I captured a Grryllus somewhat resembling the Truxalles nasus 
of Dumeril, but it has the tail-like appendages of the locust, 
and much finer antennae. The common male cricket {Gryllo- 
talpa vulgaris) is numerous, and just like the Mauritian one, 
which is indigenous here. 

The ' dry-stick ' insect, or Phasma, is common at Round 
Island. The nearest approach I can find to two 1 caught is the 
Phasma geant of Dumeril, though in this species the tubercles 



1 64 SIR H. BARKLTS REPORT. [Ch. XII. 

on the corselet are very prominent in five pairs, and there are 
two pairs on the thorax. In those from Eound Island the 
tubercles are very numerous, and almost microscopically small, 
extending- nearly over the whole back to the abdominal ex- 
tremity, where the appendages are marked differently to the 
Mauritius one. Two other Phasmas I procured I at first took 
to be of different species, as they varied so greatly in colour — 
one was of a bright green, and one a brown ; but on careful 
examination later, I concluded that they were the same. I pre- 
sume the diversity of colour may be owing to the difference of 
age or sex, or probably from the peculiar food it might have 
partaken of when in the larva state, which is well known to 
affect other insects. I see that the Grovernor, in his report, 
mentions that this change of colour is not uncommon in this 
genus, as Cuvier, speaking of the Phasma rossia, from the 
south of France, says it is either of a yellow green or greyish 
brown. 

I have compared my Eound Island specimens of Phasmas 
with twenty-seven others in the Museum, but all differ essen- 
tially. I got a number of Coleoptera, one only resembling 
those at the Mauritius, which, though in form like the Round 
Island one, and the marks on the elytra are the same, the 
white spots on the abdomen are wanting; a small black beetle 
whose name I do not know; and one brown beetle, about 1-J inch 
in length, tubercled all over — but I can find neither figure nor 
description of it, nor do I think it is in Mauritius. 

I have no doubt but for the untoward weather I should have 
added considerably to my specimens. What I did procure and 
have noted may be of assistance to future explorers in the lesser 
Mascarene Islands, about which, in the scientific world, a good 
deal of interest appears to be felt. 

Extracts from Sir H. Barkly's Report on Round Island, 
delivered before the Members of the Royal Society of Arts and 
Sciences, Dec. 15. 1869 : — 

' The number of plants collected by us at Round Island, exclu- 
sive of two sea-weeds, Sargazzum vulgare (?), and Gonospora 
fastigiata (?), common, I .believe, to the coast of Mauritius, was 
twenty-nine, comprising specimens of the following natural 
orders : — 



Ch. XII.] 



LIST OF PLANTS. 



165 





Musci 


] 


ACROGENS. 


Lycopodiacese . 


1 




Filices 


1 




Graminacese 


5 




Cyperacese 


1 


Endogens. - 


Pandanacese 


2 




Palmacese 

Liliacese . . . . 


3 




1 






— 12 




'Ebenacese 


3 




Asclepiadacese . 


2 




Convolvulacese . 


1 




Myrsinaeese 


1 


EXOGENS. < 


Asteracese 


2 




Combretacese 


1 




Myrtacese 


1 




Cinchonaceae 


2 




^Homaliacese 


1 
— 14 



29 



' The first point in the above list which attracts attention is 
the very large proportion borne by Endogens, or internally 
growing, to Exogens, or externally growing plants. Humboldt 
quotes approvingly the estimate of Eobert Brown, that in the 
tropics Monocotyledons, which represent the former, are in the 
ratio of one to five to Dicotyledons — synonymous with the 
latter — whilst we see above that they are at Eound Island as 
twelve to fourteen, or more than four times more numerous. 
Again, in a recently published Flora of the Sandwich Islands, 
out of the 554 flowering plants, 75 belong to the Monocoty- 
ledons, and 479 to Dicotyledons, showing the former to be less 
than a seventh of the whole ! This feature becomes the more 
prominent when we find, on further examination, that whilst 
the Endogens differ so much that few, if any of them, can have 
been recently derived from Mauritius, several of the Exogens 
are identical with those of this island ; some, too, in all proba- 
bility, having been introduced into both from foreign countries. 

' With a view to a closer appreciation of genera and species 
than I could otherwise have ventured on, Mr. Home has been 
good enough to compare the whole of our specimens with those 
in the Colonial Herbarium, which was removed about a year 
ago from the Royal College to a building in the Botanic 



1 56 FLORA [Ch. XII. 

Grardens at Pamplemousses. I annex Mr. Home's observations 
upon each, with which mine will be found in most cases, in the 
following portions of this paper, to accord. 

' To begin with the three orders of Cryptogams, each repre- 
sented by a single individual, I can say little as to the moss 
even by way of comparison, the family being omitted altogether 
in the " Hortus Mauritianus," and no classification, so far as I 
am aware, of the Mascarene species having ever been made. I 
presume it to be a Sphagnum,^ apparently differing but little 
from some which may be seen on trees in this island. 

' The Lycopod belongs to the section Selaginella, and is pro- 
bably new. I took it at the time for a dwarfed form of the 
common Mauritian P. B. concinna, but gave up the idea on 
looking over my specimens, with none of which it could be 
identified. It may, however, perhaps, be Bojer's S. innioides, 
with which I am unacquainted, no specimen having been left 
by him. 

' The fern is Adiantum caudatuTn, a wide-spread fern, found 
in Mauritius and most other islands of the Mascarene group. I 
may, however, remark in passing, that its habit at Eound 
Island is so much changed, especially in the young stage, that 
I could scarcely at first recognise it. 

' Turning next to the flowering plants, and commencing with 
the Monocotyledons, or those having one-lobed seeds, we have 
five grasses composing the scanty herbage of the islet. Strange 
to say, that which is most common, growing on tufts amongst 
the trees at the summit, appears identical with the Indian 
Citronelle, or Lemon-grass, Andropogon or Cyonbopogon 
Schcenanthus ofBojer; who, however, distinctly states it not to 
be a native of Mauritius, nor can it even to this day be said 
to be naturalised here. Unluckily, the specimens brought away 
have been lost. The next grass. No. 5, of Mr. Home, is not 
to be found in the Eoyal College Herbarium, and is supposed by 
him to be new. 

' The third, numbered 7, is the Cynodon, mentioned by 
Colonel Pike ; and we all, judging from its mode of growth, 
referred it to that genus ; but it will be seen to differ totally 
from the Chien-Dent, or Petit Chien-Dent, so common here. 

' I believe it is the Hypnus acicuJaris, Linn. 



Ch. XII.] OF ROUND ISLAND. 167 

Of Mr. Home's number 8 only a single imperfect specimen was 
obtained, which has been sent to Dr. Hooker, at Kew, unidenti- 
fied with any in the Herbarium. 

' The single Sedge, on the other hand, appears to be Gyjperus 
maritimus, common to Mauritius. 

' Proceeding next to plants of more perfect structure, having 
two-lobed seeds, we find that Eound Island possesses three 
Ebonies resembling severally the Mauritian species Diospyros 
pterocalyx, Tnelanida, and chrysophyllus. Their growth, how- 
ever, like that of all the hard-wood trees, is stunted, and their 
branches gnarled and twisted. This is due probably to the 
wind, for there seems a sufficient depth of vegetable mould to 
enable them to grow more luxuriantly. 

' Two trailing Asclepiads, with inconspicuous flowers, festoon 
the rocky surface of the islet in many places. One Mr. Home 
identifies with the Sylophora {Asdepias asthniatica) of the 
Eoyal College Herbarium, which, however, is given by Bojer as 
a " Ceylon species cultivated in gardens principally by the 
Indians ;" no doubt as a drug, since Dr. Eoxburgh declares it to 
be one of the most valuable medicines in India. The second 
was originally regarded by Mr. Home as a Periploca, possibly 
Mauritian, the " Speca du Pays ;" but he has since considered it 
to belong to another foreign section of the family, the Strepto- 
caulon, on the authority of the late Dr. Meller, who thus 
classed a plant growing at Curepipe which it strongly resembles, 
though of a much stouter habit in every respect, as will be seen 
by comparison. 

' Possibly, as the genus has downy seeds, both these Asclepiads 
have been conveyed to Eound Island by the wind. Such 
may have been the case with the " Groatsfoot Convolvulus,'' 
Ipomcea TnaritiTna, common to most parts of the world. 

' The Myrsinaceae or Ardisiacese are represented at Eound 
Island by a small tree, according to Mr. Home, near the Badula 
ovalifolia, a Mauritian species, of which there is, however, no 
specimen in the Eoyal College Herbarium. 

' Of the Asteracese, or composite-flowered plants, are found 
two, both evidently introduced. First, a species of Sonchus or 
European sow-thistle ; not, however, the ' Laiteron,' so common 
here and all over the world, but a smaller and more prickly 
sort, which grows on Flat Island. Secondly, in large quan- 



i68 FLORA [Ch. XII. 

titles, though mostly dead from the drought, an Ageratum, an 
American genus not mentioned in the " Hortus Mauritianus," but 
which has of late years run wild in the cane-fields and near old 
clearings in the forest, having probably spread from the 
Botanical Grardens, where Mr. Duncan gives, among the flowers 
cultivated. A, conyzoides^ which I find from gardening-books 
has the light grey flowers of the one so common here. 

' In the next order, Combretacese, there is a Terminalia ; no 
doubt the one Colonel Lloyd meant when speaking of " Bois 
Benzoin," the name given to the species indigenous to Mau- 
ritius, from the wood being used for incense ; but from which, 
as well as from all other Mascarene species found by us at 
Round Island, it widely differs, as will be seen by the specimens 
being more nearly allied, according to Mr. Home, to the Indian 
Terminalias, though probably new and undescribed. 

'The only three trees seen — although the trunk of the largest 
was not above four feet in height and eighteen inches in 
diameter — had great lateral expansion, their branches extending 
horizontally between five and twenty to thirty feet. 

' Among plants allied to the Myrtle we found only a Sossinia, 
forming a small shrubby tree varying from six to ten feet in 
height, the leaves of which do not agree with those of any of 
the genera in the Eoyal College Herbarium, and which is prob- 
ably therefore also new. 

' Of the Chinchona family there were two : the first and com- 
monest we at once pronounced to be the Ternelia buxifolia of 
this island, which it much resembles. The second, a Pyrostria, 
said by Mr. Home to be nearer to P. polymorphia than to 
anything else in the Eoyal College Herbarium. The only other 
dicotyledonous plant observed by us was a small tree about 
twelve feet in height, somewhat resembling the Mauritian 
genus Blackwellia, belonging to the Homalinese, but which 
Mr. Home cannot trace to any known species. 

' We saw no signs of the "Yeloutiers " mentioned, I think, both 
by Colonel Lloyd and by Colonel Pike, though there seems a 
strong presumption in favour of their having existed, seeing 
that, according to Bojer, one of the commonest kinds here, 
Sccevola Plumierii, is known as " Veloutier de I'Isle Platte." 

' Having thus completed a description of the scanty Flora 
of jRound Island, I must at once guard against a most incorrect 
idea as to the general character of its vegetation, which might 



Ch. XII.] OF ROUND ISLAND. 169 

be drawn from the bare enumeration of genera and species, by 
pointing out that if the number of individuals be taken into 
account, the Exogens are totally overwhelmed by the Endo- 
genous plants. 

' Taken as a whole, its Flora is no doubt essentially Mascarene, 
nay, even Mauritian, as far as genera are concerned ; but the 
species, both in Endogens and Exogens, are frequently peculiar ; 
and, as may be gathered from Mr. Home's remarks, even when 
in all probability identical, varying more or less from the 
typical Mauritian standard.' 

Since this chapter was completed, a letter has been received, 
by the Secretary of the Eoyal Society of Arts and Sciences, 
from Sir H. Barkly ; and, as it has been already made public, 
I quote some passages from it relating especially to Eound 
Island. 

He says, ' The Palmiste gargoulette, Dr. Hooker has at last 
satisfied himself, is the Hyophorbe amaricaulis of Van Martins 
and others, the habitat of which has never been previously 
clearly ascertained. 

' With respect to the Fauna, Dr. Griinther refers all the 
snakes to one species (the difference in size and colour being- 
due to age or sex), as it was furnished forty or fifty years ago 
from a head in the Paris Museum, but of which no other or 
perfect specimen was known, Leptolon Dussumierii. Dr. 
Griinther will soon contribute a complete description of it to the 
Zoological Society, and it will be figured in the " Proceedings." 
The lizards are reduced to two, many of the specimens being 
different ages and sexes of Scincus Telfairii, which was first 
described from Madagascar under the name of Leopopis Ballia. 
The small lizards, both in spirits, and preserved by Colonel 
Pike, are the Gongylus Bojerii, previously sent home by 
Mr. Newton. Though the number of Eound Island reptiles ie 
thus more limited than I at first supposed, yet two curious 
features still remain. It has a genus of snakes of which no 
other species is known, and whose nearest congener, Dr. 
Griinther considers, is only found in the Loyalty Islands in the 
South Seas ; and its ordinary lizard is peculiar to its own shores 
and to distant Madagascar, and does not exist either in Mau- 
ritius or Bourbon, close by. 

' Pray tell Colonel Pike I purpose writing to him, directly I 
get out to the Cape, about the insects, most of which are new.' 

N 



CHAPTER XIII. 

A CHINESE FESTIVAL. 

Preparations — Joss — Description of Temple- — Ceremonies — Gambling — 

Opera — Pantomime, 

At the Salines, not far from the artillery barracks, the Chinese 
have purchased about an acre of ground, and erected in the 
middle of it a good-sized building of stone, with numerous small 
dependencies round it. These are all dedicated to Joss, and 
once a year there is a general gathering of all the Celestials in 
the city. Lesser ones take place frequently, but these are prin- 
cipally for gambling. 

For some weeks before this festival active preparations go 
on amongst the small-eyed but sharp-sighted Chinamen, on a 
grand scale, for a good time. , 

Pigs and poultry are in great requisition, and the night 
before all the cooks are in their glory ; and a queer sight it is 
to watch them, with their skinny, dirty, yellow forms, hovering 
over tlie seething pots. Pigs, when not too large, are frequently 
roasted whole, and ducks and fowls are in abundance ; so that 
the savour of the viands is very appetising, or would be, but 
for a subtle odour of opium diffused over the whole place. 
Rice is cooked in every conceivable form, and curious suspicious- 
looking vegetables are in piles ; fruits, and everything that can 
tempt a Chinese palate. 

John Chinaman is generally the most economical of men, 
frugal to a proverb ; but on the occasion of this gala day he 
spares no expense. Every carriage and carriole to be had is 
engaged for transport to the festive scene. Very jaunty, too, the 
young Celestials look in the scrupulously clean and generally 
new costume for the day, one very noticeable feature of which 
is the whitest of stockings and brightest of varnished leather 
shoes. 



Ch. XIII.J . CHINESE JOSS. 171 

The road to the Salines swarms with merry groups, all wending 
their way to the Joss-house, which has been thoroughly cleaned. 
Joss himself is regilt ; inside and out all is furbished up, and 
scores of little tables are placed outside, which are loaded with 
provisions. Grongs and cymbals make a deafening din, and 
jollity reigns supreme, for the demon of gambling has not yet 
made its appearance. 

The room that Joss occupies is hung round with banners 
bearing all sorts of Chinese characters, and long scrolls of paper 
each with some wise saying written on it. Joss is a large 
wooden figure about ten feet high, sitting cross-hogged on an 
elevated platform, surrounded by little silk or satin flags with 
curious devices on them. The whole place is decorated with 
bouquets, and on a table before the Joss are large vases filled 
with artificial flowers. 

Candles highly ornamented are sold to the devout ; and at the 
time I was present they were being offered to him with dishes 
of meat and rice, till he was the centre of an illumination. 
Instead of these being off'erings to a god, as I at first supposed, 
I found that Joss represents the devil 1 

The Chinese say Grod is always good and kind, and watchful 
for man's benefit, therefore does not need propitiation. It is 
the devil who is always seeking to do harm, to whom all 
these presents were made in order to please him, and make him 
their friend. 

Early on the day of the feast a procession is formed, banners 
are borne aloft, gongs and cymbals clanged on all sides ; and 
each Chinaman, bearing a bowl of rice, passes with slow and 
steady step before Joss, invoking his friendship. After this is 
over the feasting takes place ; and then comes the serious busi- 
ness of the day, the real attraction to the greater part of those 
assembled — viz. the gambling and opium-smoking. 

Opening out of the Joss-room is a small apartment with 
several bunks in it, and seats, always filled with stupefied 
wretches almost insensible from the quantities of opium inhaled 
from the long-stemmed pipes lying at their sides. The room 
is filled with dense smoke from the noxious drug. 

The front, or principal room, is a very large one ; paintings 
decorate its walls, and a number of very handsome Chinese lan- 
terns are suspended from the ceiling. Long rows of small 



172 CHINESE GAMBLERS. . [Ch. XIII. 

tables are on each side — a crowd round every one of them. At 
the foot of every table sits a pale, hollow-eyed, cadaverous- 
looking individual, with a countenance so perfectly expression- 
less, he might be a statue, but for the few words that drop 
from his lips of stone, and proclaim his profession — gambler. 

In front of him lies a quantity of copper cash, or round coins 
with holes in them, a tea- cup, and two small pieces of wood 
like Joss-sticks. 

In the middle of the table is a board ; on it are marked 
squares with Chinese characters, and at the sides of the board 
are slips of paper, with corresponding numbers upon them. 
The person who wishes to bet takes one of the numbered slips 
of paper, and places it on the same figure on the board. For 
instance, if he puts one dollar on number six, he can double it 
by covering it with a corresponding number. The board is 
filled with the slips of paper, and when all is ready the keeper 
of the bank removes from the pile of cash as many as he can 
cover with the tea-cup. They are shuffled about under the 
cup for a minute ; it is then raised, and the cash carefully re- 
moved one by one with the thin sticks and counted. Should 
it come out an even number, all who have betted on even 
numbers win and the rest lose. 

The room is generally filled to overflowing. I have seen from 
six to eight hundred gambling at one time in it. Silence pro- 
foimd reigns from one end of the place to the other, all intently 
watching the game. 

I have carefully studied their countenances, but could not 
judge from them who won or lost. The same stolid look on 
every face, not a muscle moved. Sometimes after losing his 
ready cash, a Chinaman will stake his whole stock and trade — 
and lose. I remember an instance of this reckless gambling 
mania. A shop close to my house was owned by a very respect- 
able Chinaman, a quiet fellow, who had his place well stocked 
with groceries, wines, &c., and owned one assistant, a boy of 
about twenty, as quiet and steady as his master. 

For a few days his shop was shut, much to the inconvenience 
of his neighbours ; and on enquiry, I found it was the annual 
festival, and both master and man had attended it. At length 
Mr. Lung-Fo re-opened, but, to every one's astonishment, he 
was busy sweeping out his shop, and weighing out charcoal and 



Ch. XIII.] DRAMATIC OPERA. 173 

lard to the customers, while the youngster sat leisurely smoking 
and making up the day-books. It appeared they had been 
o'ambling from the time they left home. Lung-Fo had lost to his 
servant all his money, his whole stock and house ; and then having 
nothing more, he wagered himself, and if he lost he was to be 
servant to the other — and he did lose. But there was no appear- 
ance of triumph on the boy's face ; master and servant reversed 
their places with the most perfect sangfroid. 

This is no uncommon case ; but though nmnbers are con- 
stantly reduced to beggary, as soon as they are in that condition 
they set steadily to work again, and will earn before the next 
festival the wherewithal to induce Fortune to turn her wheel 
once more in their favour. 

Adjoining the gambling-room is another, set apart for thea- 
trical performances. One or more are sure to take place at this 
season, though generally it is only a continuation of one piece 
during several days. 

I was fortunate enough to be present at a first-class opera, 
and all the Celestial talent in the country was in request. It was 
written by Mr. Ahong, a doctor and opium-dealer in the country ; 
and the music was composed by Mr. Ching-tang, a dealer in 
snook and cocoa-nut oil in Port Louis. 

The opera was of the dramatic order, the scene laid in 
Pekin, and the following were the dramatis personce : — 

Mr. Chow Chow, a student, son of a mandarin. 

Pluchow, servant to the above. 

Mr. Ahow, a rich mandarin, guardian of Miss Chin Sing. 

Mr. Oulong, secretary to Ahow. 

Miss Chin Sing, niece to Ahow. 

Mr. Chow Chow, a young gentleman already deeply learned 
in all the lore of Confucius, occasionally pays a visit to Mr. 
Ahow, his father's friend, and there he meets the moon-faced 
Miss Chin Sing ; and as philosophy has not closed either eyes or 
heart, he falls over head and ears in love at first sight (a thing 
not quite unknown among the barbarians of the West). He 
discovers from the elegant little feet, covered with the tiniest 
of jewelled slippers, that twinkle in and out from under her 
rich garments, that she is of rank, and that it is useless for him 
to asDire to her hand. She is jealously watched by Ahow ; but 



174 THE OPERA. [Ch. XIII. 

when did an old guardian stop a young lover from finding 
means to impart his passion. 

Pluchow, his faithful servant, manages to convey any number 
of letters to her, to all of which she replied in the elegant 
bouquets that silently express so much to the Chinese heart. 
She also contrives to let him know that her uncle has promised 
her hand to Oulong, in return for sundry services by which he 
has been able to enrich himself at the barbarian's expense. Poor 
Chow Chow is in such despair at this intelligence, that he 
threatens to commit suicide if his lady-love will not consent to 
elope with him. 

She intimates she is willing. But just as all is arranged, the 
plot is discovered, Pluchow bastinadoed, and Miss Chin Sing- 
locked up in the topmost room of the house. But love laughs 
at locksmiths ; and as her place of confinement overlooks a large 
garden, shaded with immense trees. Chow Chow contrives to 
converse with her from the top of a golden apple-tree, and 
flings her a silken cord, with which she manages to descend into 
his arms. 

As soon as Ahow discovers his loss, he kills himself from 
shame at the disgrace ; Oulong follows suit, and the lovers are 
happy ever after. 

The orchestra consisted of two gongs, two triangles, two 
Chinese fiddles, four cymbals, two guitars, and two kettle-drums. 
The opera commences with an overture, which resembled a 
grand crockery crash — which made me start, but greatly 
pleased the audience. 

After two or three of these crockery-smashing crashes, a faint 
tinkling sound of a fiddle and triangle was heard, and scene 
first commenced. 

Miss Chin Sing waddles across the stage, and prepares to 
arrange her toilet. Paints, powder, pomades, and twenty-four 
brushes are brought in by her maids, and her hair was soon 
arranged a la theiere, and a dozen little gilt sticks, and a bunch 
of flowers, were stuck all over it. She looked quite gay and 
festive, and all the time the operation was going on she was 
singing a love-song in a delicate falsetto. 



Ch-XIii.] scenes, 175 



Scene No, 2. 

Miss Chin Sing and Pluchow, 

The latter unrolls a letter a yard in length from his master, 
which she covers with kisses. 

The duet in this scene was most ridiculous — both voices in 
a weak falsetto, with singular gesticulations ; and whenever they 
stopped, a crash fit to make a nervous man's hair stand on end 
would ensue, a little fiddling, and a blow or two on the kettle- 
drums, as a sort of variation, evidently to the great delight of 
the Celestials present, who sat as still as so many children, with 
upturned eyes fixed on the scene. 

Scene No. 3. 

Mr. Ahow enters, in the full dress of a wealthy mandarin, his 
pig-tail hanging to his feet, adorned with gold thread and lace. 
The old fellow struts across the stage, giving orders to his 
numero*us servants, who bow humbly before him. Miss Chin 
Sing is sent for, and severely reprimanded, and sent weeping 
away. Chow Chow enters singing ; but Ahow, puffing himself 
up into even greater dignity than before, a low earnest duet 
follows, and then both leave the stage, holding paper handker- 
chiefs to their faces to dry up their tears. 

Scene No. 4. 

Garden at night. Miss Chin Sing at an open window, Chow 
Chow perched on the top of a tree. He throws her a cord, and 
she throws herself into his arms, and he carries her off, ^ it 
being impossible such tiny feet could walk. An interval of ten 
minutes was allowed ; and all withdrew to take a whiif of opium 
or tobacco and a cup of tea, which was served in a side room, 
in the smallest of cups. 

Scene No. 5. '' 

Old Ahow and Oulong appear with the police and servants. 
The direst confusion ensues : everyone rushes about, and every- 
body sings something on his own hook, qiute regardless of his 
neighbour's tune. Grongs clashed, drums beat, and the spectators 



176 A DRAMA. [Ch. XIII. 

clapped their hands in ecstasy. Ahow stalks about, supplies 
swords to all, and rushes off, vowing vengeance to the missing 
couple. 

Scene No. 6. 

Mr. and Mrs. Chow Chow are discovered in an aroour, 
drinking tea, and billing and cooing like two turtle-doves. A 
pretty little duet is sung, accompanied by a sort of mandoline ' 
and a fiddle. The most plaintive of ditties in the faintest of 
voices, but all falsetto. While the happy couple are so bliss- 
fully engaged, Ahow and Oulong appear, and after a shower of 
reproaches, and just when they seem about to immolate the 
lovers, they change their minds. Ahow rushes on Oulong's 
sword and dies, and Oulong jumps out of a window and drowns 
himself. This does not at all distract the others ; they merely 
walk off, looking very happy. The play is continued through 
the whole of their married life, but I did not go to see the 
other acts. 

In the rear of the Joss-house a large stage was erected, 
intended for a pantomime performance at night. It was 
dimly lighted by pieces of cloth dipped in flat dishes of cocoa- 
nut oil, and set fire to — a very primitive sort of torch. There is 
a low covered house at the back of the stage, to conceal the 
actors. The stage is lined up each side by rows of Chinamen, 
and crowds stand round it. 

A curious beast issues from the covered den, said to be the 
pet lion of Joss. I doubt if Cuvier ever even dreamt of such 
a specimen of the Felis Leo. 

It dashes round the stage, its monster eyes glaring and 
mouth wide open, to the terror of the youngsters. It is about 
twelve feet long, by five or six feet high. It is covered with 
cloth to imitate skin ; one man under the shoulders to work the 
head, and one under the tail ; the undulations of the body being 
most eccentric. I pity the poor fellow who personated the 
tail, the peculiar jerk of which was inimitable, as he had to 
scamper after the mad leapings of the head. Head seats him- 
self on a table, and eats grass ; but by when tail has gathered up 
the long body and hopes for a rest, off rushes head to the 

• These instruments are not at all like their European namesakes, but have 
some pretty soft notes when not accompanied by the gongs, &c. 



Ch. XIII.] THE CHINESE, 177 

farther end of the stage, poor tail tumbling off the table as he 
best can. Head sits down and eats fire, grins and bows ; tail 
waggles all the time, keeping the spectators in a roar. The 
same thing is repeated over and over for hours, and still a sea 
of upturned faces surrounds the stage. 

The Celestial Empire may boast of being the oldest under the 
sun, its wise men excelling in literature, its mechanics in skill ; 
but, save in the art of making money, all the Celestials I have 
seen are yet in the lowest depths of igTiorance and superstition, 
though as easily amused as children, and perhaps more harm- 
less than the denizens of the West under a similar condition ; 
at least, they are so here, where of course they are amenable 
to British law 



CHAPTEE XIV. 

AN EXCUBSION UP THE POUCE MOUNTAIN. 

Early Morning — Begin our Ascent — Cardinal's Nest— Old Forts — Tunnel under the 
Pouce — The Shoulder — The Summit — Ferns — View — Entomology of the Moun- 
tain — Descent — Echo — Notes on different Ascents of the Peter Both Mountain. 

On a fresh clear morning in June, T set off for a trip up to the 
top of the Pouce. I left my residence at daybreak with my 
Indian Bopchia, to carry my vasculum and the wherewithal to 
replenish the inner man. Passing- through the still darkened 
though far from silent streets of Port Louis, where milkmen 
were shrieking ' du lait ' at every corner, and produce-carts 
arriving from the country, I hurried on, hoping to be able to 
reach the shoulder of the mountain before the sun was high 
enough to render climbing unpleasantly hot work. I was soon 
joined by three friends — a Scotch engineer, a barrister-at-law, 
and a member of the press, all eager and ready for the 
ascent. 

After traversing a filthy noisy Malabar camp above the 
Champ de Lort, our route lay through a large Mango grove, and 
down a ravine, where we crossed a limpid brook murmuring over 
the rocks, and began our ascent through a wilderness of the red 
and yellow-flowered Mimosas that filled the air with delicious 
fragrance, doubly grateful to our senses after the odours of the 
camp we had left. There had been copious showers in the night, 
which had thoroughly wetted the long rank grass, and our 
extremities were soon particularly ' moist and unpleasant.' 

A small bird here flew across our path, and attracted my 
attention by its plantive cries. It was a female Cardinal. 
Fouclia Madagascarensis, which we disturbed from two pretty 
pale-blue eggs in a nest made of fine soft grass, neatly fastened 
to a branch by threads of cotton, which she had secured in her 
search for material for the home of her little ones ; and the 



Ch. XIV.] AN ASCENT. 179 

feathered ends were extende4 and crossed over the entrance, 
forming a shady archway to protect it from the rain. 

We soon entered the old military road constructed by the 
French, but now so overgrown with long grass and shrubs as to 
be very troublesome to the pedestrian excursionist. By Elliot's 
barometer we were now 800 feet above the level of the sea. The 
view from this point is unobstructed by trees, and the whole 
city lay like a map before us. Passing through a dense growth 
of underwood and over loose rocks, we soon gained a height of 
1,200 feet. Here on our right rose the bold side of the 
mountain, almost perpendicularly for 1,100 feet, the little 
scattered spots of verdure on it sparkling in the morning sun. 
Ferns now began to appear : the Nejphrolejpis acuta waved its 
graceful fronds on every side of us ; the Polypodium phymatodes 
was abundant amongst the rocks, and the breeze was perfumed 
with the wild jessamine, which ranks over all the tall 
shrubs. 

About 150 feet from the base of this mountain cliff, an ex- 
cavation was made in its side of about 20 feet deep by 50 
wide, with the view of making a tunnel for conveying water 
from the Moka river into Port Louis. A survey was made, in 
1852, by the Surveyor-general and civil engineer, and it was 
expected that the undertaking would conduce greatly to the 
general welfare of the city and its neighbourhood. 

It would also have served as a means of transit through the 
country, and have given the farmers an opportunity of conveying 
their produce to market, it being not only intended for a water 
way, but for foot and carriage passengers, to shorten the distance 
between Moka and the city. 

The strata through which the tunnel was to pass is basaltic 
rock, easily worked. It was supposed a large quantity of 
valuable stone would have been extracted, suitable for public 
works, and when sold would have contributed towards defraying 
the expenses of the undertaking. 

It was calculated the tunnel would be 816 yards long, and 
that 49,264 cubic feet of stone would be quarried out of it, and 
easily sent down by tramway to the Champ de Lort, for sale for 
building purposes. It was recommended that this should be done 
by the worst class of condemned prisoners out of Port Louis 
jail, as a proper mode of punishment for such criminals. The 



i2o MOSSES. rCH. XIV. 

estimated expense of the whole was about 60,000 dollars. Like 
many another scheme in Mauritius it came to nought, and the 
hole in the rock is all that remains to tell the tale. 

On reaching the shoulder we came to a large open space, 
formerly cultivated, but devoid of trees and shrubs except here 
and there a few clumps of aloes. A purling brook, clear as 
crystal, from which we refreshed ourselves, runs down the side 
of a footpath, leading round the west of the shoulder. Its 
banks are thickly set with the pretty Odontosoria tenuifolia 
and several species of Nephrodiums, whilst the most luxuriant 
mosses abound, and the ground is strewn with dead Pupa 
shells. 

Amongst the mosses I gathered here and higher up are speci- 
mens of the Polytrichura commune, many of the stalks from 
seven to eight inches long ; but I only found a single flower, as 
I was nearly two months too early for its flowering season. The 
ffypnum. brevirostrum, and aciculare were most abundant, and 
constantly with them is a very pretty species of Jungermannia. 
The curious Macronitum, suhtortum., that looks as if it was 
threaded on long strings, with its bright orange-pointed fairy 
caps for flowers, grows sparsely here, but I have seen it in large 
tufts at Curepipe. The Metzgeria furcata and three species of 
Dicranum were also amongst my treasures. 

Our route was soon impeded by a deep gorge of recent for- 
mation. We were told it was formed in 1865 by a large water- 
spout bursting over this spot, carrying away immense quantities 
of earth and stones, and sweeping everything before it. Long 
will it be ere tbe recollection dies away of that terrible night, 
when the torrents descended from the mountain, swelling every 
stream into a roaring river in Port Louis and its vicinity ; and, 
without a moment's warning, inundating all the lower parts 
of the city and causing terrible destruction of life and pro- 
perty. 

We crossed the gorge with difficulty, as a strong stream 
gushed out of the cliff, at least twenty feet above the surface of 
the earth, from some subterranean source. Farther up, facing 
the north, and commanding the road lately ascended as well as 
the valleys below, was the site of an old French fort ; and still 
higher up the cliff is another. We passed round the brow of the 
shoulder, and here a magnificent view burst on our sight, as we 



Ch. XIV.] THE SUMMIT. i8i 

stodd on the brink of a precipice 2,000 feet high, overlooking the 
highly cultivated districts of Flacq, Moka, and Plaines Wil- 
helms, as well as the different mountain ranges traversing the 
island. 

It is very evident that the whole of this plateau was once a 
lake of liquid fire, and I do not doubt that the interior of it 
was the crater of one of the extinct volcanoes that form Mau- 
ritius. 

We now took a footpath through a wood of stunted trees, on 
our way to the summit. At this altitude we found a different 
vegetation altogether ; in fact, the zones are tolerably well 
marked up the mountain. Grrasses and ferns here changed their 
character, and a great variety of Orchidese were found. I gathered 
here many species of lichens and mosses,^ some quite new to me. 
I procured some fine pinnae of the fronds of the Cyatheas, both 
excelsa and canaliculata : unfortunately it is impossible to 
secure an entire frond, both on account of fragility and size. 
Aspleniums, longissimanum, affine, and lineatum, were in the 
greatest abundance ; Aspidiuim capense, Coenopteris vivipara, 
and others : in all seventeen species I added to my Herbarium.^ 

As we approached the summit it had the appearance of being 
covered with a white flowering shrub, but on nearing it we found 
it to be the Velouta (^Tournefortia argentea), the white velvety 
leaves of which glittered in the sun. Here, for the first time, 
I found a modest little red Erica {Andromeda lilicifolia), 
with one exception the only known species of heath in the 
island. 

The path to the summit is narrow and steep, a mere scramble 
up rocks ; and when there we found only a little plateau about 
ten feet square. The whole island lay around us ; and it was a 
glorious sight to look down on it from that giddy pinnacle, so 
calm and lovely in the far distance, and not a sound saving our 
own voices to break the silence. 

' On the trees of this thicket, or forest, as Mauritians would call it, I collected 
the following funguses and lichens: — Schizophyllum commune; five species of 
Cladonia ; two Stictinas, tovientosa and rctigera ; two Rorellas ; Ucasolia herr.acea 
(Huds.) ; four Stictas, damcBcarnis, macrophylla and dichotoma, the fourth not 
named ; Usnea harbata ; Pkyscia leucomela ; and a species of Biatira. 

"^ For the nanaes of the mosses and lichens I am indebted to the kindness of 
J. Tyerman Esq., Curator of the Botanical Gardens, Liverpool, to whom I sent 
specimens of the varied Botany of Mauritius. 



i82 PETER BOTH MOUNTAIN. [Ch. XIV. 

All heaven and earth were still, but not in sleep, 

But breathless, as we grow when feeling most ; 

And silent as we stand in thought too deep for words. 

The city lay at our feet in a northerly direction ; the plains 
of Pamplemousses, and Eiviere du Eempart, to the NE,, were 
green with waving canes ; and the large plantations, many of 
them over 1,800 acres, looked only as so many cultivated gar- 
dens. The Moka and Black Eiver districts to the W. presented 
a similar scene. 

In close proximity to the summit of the Pouce is Peter Both 
Mountain, which only exceeds it in height by about twenty- 
five feet. The various spurs of the Calebasse chain could be 
distinctly recognised, as well as all the principal peaks. The 
Latanier and other rivers in their serpentine course meandering 
slowly to the sea appeared as silver lines intersecting the coun- 
try. The tracks of the railways were just visible, and as a train 
passed, no sound reached us ; but as the iron horses rushed 
puffing along, they seemed like children's toys rather than 
monster engines. 

My aneroid barometer indicated 2,725 feet above sea level. 

I gathered a good many land shells, many of them alive, and 
captured several curious insects. One, a Mantis, about half as 
large as the ordinary ones, of a dark brown colour, striated on 
the body with beautiful scarlet diagonal lines ; the eyes of an 
intense prussian blue, abdomen greyish white, and wings pale- 
yellow, with numberless spots studded on the tips. I caught an 
Argynnis for the first time, its dull orange wings thickly strewn 
with black, and disturbed several moths in the long grass. 
These little creatures are as cunning as possible ; the instant 
the net goes over them they slip down the grass stems, and run 
along with such celerity that it is a difficult matter to catch 
them. 

We were heartily glad of a good rest, and we loyally drank 
the healths of Her Majesty the Queen, and the President of the 
United States. One of our party made a most flowery speech 
in praise of these eminent personages and their respective coun- 
tries, but I fear that, under the circumstances, it was not highly 
appreciated by his small audience. 

The air was cool and bracing, with a considerable difference 
in the temperature at the summit from the base of the moun- 



Ch. XIV.] A FINE VIEW. 183 

tain. It seems to be my flite to encounter storms on mountain 
sides. Before we were half rested, a large black cloud, and the 
deep roll of thunder which echoed from peak to peak, warned 
us of an approaching storm, and we reluctantly began our 
descent. 

This was one of my first mountain experiences in Mauritius, 
and I was vexed to have to quit such a grand view so quickly. 
It was a new view of the city to me with all its surroundings : 
the harbour and its forest of masts, the wreaths of foam marking 
the coral reefs ; the forts ; and the broad expanse of the Indian 
Ocean, all glittering in the brilliant tropical sunshine — for 
there was no storm down below. We began our descent about 
eleven o'clock, and it required more care than we had any idea 
of. We hurried down to the shelter of the stunted trees, but 
not before we had all got well drenched did we reach it. Soon, 
however, it passed away, and a rainbow was the result of the 
sun breaking from the passing clouds. As the glorious arch 
spanned the heavens, it awakened in my soul thoughts of con- 
fidence, and trust and love, as I gazed on its brilliant hues — 
symbols of a brighter reality of Hope and Heaven. 

Every step disclosed some new object of admiration — a moss, 
a lichen, a fern, an orchid ; even a monkey or two appeared in 
the distance, but disappeared with an angry chatter at our dis- 
turbance, and gave us no chance of a nearer inspection. Very 
few birds were observed, and I concluded it was too cold for 
them. We heard the shrill whistle of the Boatswain, or Paille- 
en-queue birds (Phceton candidus), as they gracefully sailed 
over head. They build their nests in the hollows of the cliff, 
on the south side of the mountain. The place they had se- 
lected for their nests was inaccessible to all but a samphire or 
eider-down hunter, though our presence so alarmed them that 
they did not cease their cries till we reached the open space of 
the shoulder. Here we selected a grassy spot within a few feet 
of the precipice forming the south of the mountain. 

From this place we could look directly down into a number 
of large sugar houses on the plains below, which had been un- 
roofed in the March hurricane, and to us they looked like 
houses in miniature. The rain had ceased, all the clouds dis- 
persed, and the atmosphere was delightfully cool and clear, and 
we heartily enjoyed our breakfast. Fortunately my friends had 



i84 ENTOMOLOGY. [Ch. XlV. 

also a supply of provisions ; for of my boy, that I had sent 
on ahead of us, we had never even caught a glimpse. 

This part of the mountain, especially round the spur, is an 
interesting one, and affords a fine field for investigation to 
botanists. 

At one o'clock the sun shone out in all its splendour, casting 
his fiery rays upon us ; so we hastened our descent, and about 
1,000 feet lower we halted for a rest. 

Near this spot is a fine Mapou tree, on the trunk of which is 
cut in large letters the word ' Echo.' On hallooing we found 
the echo to be complete, caused by the sound reverberating 
from the high cliff before us. 

A little lower down we found Bopchia stretched out in the 
grass, fast asleep. He had lost us on the ascent, and being 
tired of looking for us, leisurely resigned himself to a com- 
fortable nap, awaiting our return, in oblivion of the fact that 
he had the greater part of our wine with him in my vasculum, 
and that I had to stuff my pockets with ferns, shells, mosses, 
&c. We arrived in the city about half-past two, all of us very 
sufficiently wearied, but so well pleased with our trip as to be 
willing to renew it on a future day. 

To see the Pouce under the aspect above described, it must 
be in fine weather after some weeks' succession of heavy rains. 
r have ascended it several times since, but with very varied 
luck. The last time it was dreary in the extreme, from a long- 
drought : scarcely a fern was to be seen, except on the rise above 
the shoulder, and there I missed many of my former friends. My 
object then was to hunt for land shells, so, instead of descend- 
ing by the ordinary path, I struck into the ravine, and keeping- 
down near the water-course, I was tolerably successful. With 
a good deal of trouble I found many specimens of the Pupas, 
dongata, Mauritiana, and sulcata, and one of the small but 
rare clavulata, two varieties of Hydroroena, the variegata and 
rubra : the Parmacella Mauritiana, and dozens of the com- 
mon Bulinus, Achatinas, and different species of Helix. 

A great many were alive, and nearly all the Pupas. The P. 
Manritiana is bright red when living, but changes to green 
when dead. 

I also procured some fine specimens of the Atrophyum 
Boryanum fern, that I had hitherto found principally at 



Ch. XIV.] THE PETER BOTH MOUNTAIN. 185 

Curepipe. The Polytrichwm comimune was in full seed for 
the first time I have been able to get it in that condition, with 
the single exception previously mentioned. The mosses, in 
such beauty near the shoulder on my first visit, were now all 
dried up, the water-course was a bare furrow, and only a little 
rough coarse grass in the place of the lovely ferns on its 
banks. 

The Peter Both Mountain. 

It would appear that the grand feat to accomplish in Mau- 
ritius is to ascend this mountain. I have, nevertheless, 
hitherto preferred viewing the island from other peaks, almost 
equally difficult to climb — in the case of the Morne quite 
so. 

Casual visitors seem especially attracted, and fired with the 
ambition of leaving their names on the all but inaccessible 
pinnacle. The first who led the way was a French mechanic 
named Claude Penthe, who conceived the then unheard-of idea 
of scaling the formidable rocky walls, and, with only a single 
negro, succeeded in placing the French flag on the summit, on 
September 8, 1790. Very possibly his description of the dif- 
ficulties in the way deterred his countrymen from following his 
daring example ; however that may be, I believe no other attempt 
is recorded till September 1832. On this date a party of British 
naval and military officers, with a large staff of men and acces- 
sories-, essayed the ascent ; but it was only on the second day that 
they were successful, and then, for the first time, the red cross 
of St. Greorge flaunted triumphantly from the head. 

In the years 1848 and '58, navy and army again united, and, 
with some gentlemen of the Island, went up. In the expedition 
of 1858 they were three days before they reached the top. In 
1864, when some of the officers of the 24th Eegiment and others 
arrived at the head, they left, for future climbers, a strong tin 
box, containing a visitors' book, and a piece of lead with the 
names of former explorers scratched on it. I do not think the 
book requires to be a verv bulky one. , The hoary peak is not 
likely to be intruded upon very frequently. Some of the 86th 
Regiment went up in 1869, and I believe there have been two 
or three unrecorded ascents, but I do not know of any others save 
those I have mentioned. It is more than possible that this 

O 



1 86 



CLIMBERS. 



rcH. XIV. 



mountain will one day be quite inaccessible, from the gigantic 
basaltic rocks constantly toppling down, worn away by the 
elements. That day is doubtless distant, and before it arrives 
we shall hear of many an ascent, for the ' Irrepressible Saxon ' 
delights in overcoming unheard-of diflficulties in the way of a 
mountain climb. 




A BTJTTEEFLY. 



CHAPTER XV. 

REDUIT. 

Its Vicissitudes — Eeason of its first Establishment— Alleged Establishment Its 
Interior and Exterior — Its Change under M. de Brillane — Anecdote of Barto- 
lomeo — Difference of its Treatment under Sir R. Farquhar and his Successors — 
Mauritius threatened with Monsters — Destruction of the Cause of the Threat — 
Sir W. Gromm's Rule — Reduit in the Hands of Sir Henry Barkly and his Lady — 
Description of Scenery- — Geological Features — Ghosts — Mynas — Ferns and 
Fernery — Ravages by Cyclone of 1868. 

Few places in Mauritius have undergone the vicissitudes which 
Reduit, the present country residence of the representative of 
royalty, has experienced. 

In the early ages of the French dynasty in the Isle of France, 
the maison de plaisance of the governors was at Montplaisir. 

In 1749 M. David, who then held the reins of government, 
a gentleman reared in all the gallantry of the Court of Louis 
XV., sought a retirement where he might create a second Parc- 
aux-Cerfs de Paris, and found a romantic spot near Moka, just 
suited to his purpose. 

To prevent objections to the large outlay required for the 
expenses of the building, he alleged as a reason for it, that he 
wished to provide a secure retreat for the ladies of the colony 
in case of an attack on the island by the British ; an event con- 
sidered very probable at that time. It is to be supposed the 
excuse was accepted, as Reduit was completed, and Montplaisir 
deserted. 

Though containing every appliance luxury could furnish 
to suit the gay revelry within its walls, it was not devoid of 
defences, should circumstances require it as a strong-hold. 
Outwardly it was a veritable chateau of the feudal age, de- 
fended by moat and drawbridge, thus carrying out the soi- 
disant reason for its construction. 

After M. David's departure, Reduit was for a time neglected. 



i88 REDUIT. [Ch. XV. 

with the exception of a permission given by M. Bouvet, in 1755, 
to M. Poivre to plant there some nutmeg trees, which he had 
procured with great difficulty from Manilla. It was also used for 
a time as a college. In 1756, M. Magon, finding its quiet and 
retirement refreshing after the oppressive cares of his troubled 
administration, spared neither pains nor expense to enrich its 
gardens with a great variety of useful and valuable trees and 
curious plants. 

It suffered again an interregnum of desertion after M. Magon 
left till 1776, when Le Chevalier Gruerin de Brillane entirely 
changed its fate and aspect 

Moat and portcullis, all that gave a feudal character to the 
building, were swept away. 

Again its star shone brilliantly, and its alleys were the resorl 
of the beauty and gallantry of the day. 

In 1789 Eeduit had its share of the disasters caused by the 
terrible hurricane that then burst over the Isle of France, and 
it was shorn of much of its beauty. 

A curious anecdote was related about this time of the cele- 
brated traveller, Bartolomeo, who visited the island. He writes, 
' Private persons purchase small plots of ground from the King, 
live as planters, and construct for themselves habitations, all of 
which are called Reduits.' 

In 1810, Mr., afterwards Sir R. Farquhar, the first British 
Governor, took great pleasure in embellishing Reduit ; but it 
experienced fresh vicissitudes at the hands of the Major- 
Generals Hall and Darling. 

In February 1813 Reduit was the scene of the wildest terror 
and commotion. The peace of Mauritius was threatened ! 
Vague rumours had spread of serpent monsters rearing their 
crested heads, but no one could give any reliable information. 
The ' Gem of the Ocean,' hitherto as free from deadly reptiles 
as if St. Patrick himself 

Had banished them for ever, 

Qow to be infested with such vermin ! Impossible ! They must 
be hunted out, or Mauritius would be uninhabitable I The 
bravest turned out, armed to the teeth, and with beating hearts 
set forth to seek the dread unknown. When found, the enemy 
proved a formidable one, nothing less than a Boa Constrictor, 



Ch. XV.] REDUir. 189 

comfortably ensconced in the vegetation at the foot of the Cas- 
cade. However, he was. slain and brought in triumph to Port 
Louis by MM. Fleurot and Cazelins. It was 14 feet 8 inches 
in length, and 14 inches in circumference. It appears the 
reptile had been brought from India in a vessel that was 
wrecked some years previously at Grand Eiver Mouth, and sup- 
posed to have been destroyed, but which must have swum 
ashore, and made its way to the spot where it was killed. 

Eeduit was not simply abandoned, but numbers of its finest 
trees were allowed to be cut down or mutilated ; and not till 
1823 did it again find a protector, when Sir Lowry Cole re- 
stored it to the favour it has ever since possessed. He hired 
the most experienced gardeners for it, renewed its fountains, 
and planted the rarest trees and flowers. 

From this time all savans, and men of any note who have 
visited Mauritius, have spoken of the cordial reception they 
have always met with at Eeduit. 

In 1846, it was not only in a prosperous state, from the great 
care bestowed ' on it by Sir William Gromm, but it at length 
enjoyed, what it had so greatly needed, the graceful presence 
and gentle influence of a noble Chatelaine, the Lady Elizabeth 
Gromm. It has continued the summer retreat of succeeding 
governors from the intense heat of the city, as it possesses a 
climate of from six to ten degrees difference in temperature. 

In the hands of its present occupants. Sir Henry and Lady 
Barkly, it keeps up its reputation, both for the care bestowed 
on its grounds and the hospitable welcome that worth and 
talent receive when visiting Eeduit. 

It is situated in the district of Moka, at an elevation of 960 
feet above sea level, and at the juncture of the rivers Profonde 
and La Cascade, whose waters unite and fall into Grrand Eiver, 
which carries them on to the sea. 

It stands on a tongue of land, between two ravines, formed 
by the above-named rivers. 

It commands a wide extent of country : to the right lies a 
range of mountains, most of them covered with verdure to 
their summits, stretching from Mount Ory to tlie celebrated 
Peter Both ; and on the left rises the magnificent line of the 
Corps de Garde Mountains. 

The eye wanders with pleasure over the intervening scenery. 



I90 GHOSTLY EXPECTATIONS. [Ch. XV. 

The forest land ; the numerous well-shaded habitations and 
sugar mills ; the tender green of the cane fields ; near the 
house, the stately avenues of Filaos and Mangoes ; and the 
spacious lawn dotted here and there with fine palms — all form a 
landscape of rare beauty. Neither must the wide expanse of 
the blue Indian Ocean be forgotten in a description of the view 
from the Eeduit. From the verandah can be distinctly seen 
the great currents of lava from the original crater, which, 
breaking down its walls for miles, flowed on to the sea. 

The whole neighbourhood is exceedingly interesting to a 
geologist. 

Traces of terrible volcanic action exist everywhere, extinct 
for ages, but which may one day burst forth again, and perhaps 
again submerge the whole or part of the island. On the sides 
of the ravines tufa is in abundance, also large water-worn 
stones, covered with a soft coating of sedimentary deposit, and 
small pieces of pumice stone are sometimes found. 

Having several times been the recipient of the kindly hospi- 
talities of Sir Henry Barkly and his fair consort, I can speak 
feelingly of the natural beauties of Keduit, as I enjoyed them 
so heartily. 

During one *of my visits I was informed that in a certain 
room in the NE. end of the building a student committed 
suicide, also that a lady's maid was found dead in her bed in 
the time of the occupation of Reduit by Sir W. Stevenson. I 
was told that this room was haunted by their spirits and others, 
black, grey, and white, according to the servants' belief, who 
all studiously avoided it. I, however, chose this apartment, 
and did all I could to invite some one of the ghosts to give me 
an audience, but unsuccessfully ; so I presume when they made 
their visits I was in the arms of Morpheus. Or, it may be 
that the presence of a real live Yankee (a genuine one) was so 
great a rarity, they had not the courage to face such a curiosity. 
Possibly my total unbelief in spirits and their rappings made 
me an impracticable subject. At any rate my sleep was sweet 
and refreshing, so their gambols must for once have been 
carried on in other rooms where timidity reigned supreme. 

On the slopes of the ravines are pretty walks where I have 
strolled delightedly, inhaling the fresh breezes of the early 
morning, the only really enjoyable part of the day m the sum- 
mer at Mauritius. Then all nature looks glad, and every tree 



Ch. XV.] THE MARTIN. 191 

and shrub shines freshly out after the cool night. Every bird 
is busy and carolling at the top of its voice, as if it knew the 
scorchinar heat of the sun would soon reduce it to silence. 

Of all merry birds commend me to the Myna {Accidotheres 
tristis) or Martin. I can only compare these jolly little 
creatures to rooks in a rookery. 

Like them they are gregarious, and they equal them in noise. 
It is almost deafening to stand under a tree where they have 
taken up their quarters. The first thing in the morning they 
begin, and it is most amusing to watch the scolding, chattering, 
fighting, and flirting that go on before the bird business of the 
day begins, and each goes off on some quest of its own. 

Sometimes a little blue monkey would be visible, but so shy 
it was impossible to get a closer acquaintance with it. 

All along the margins of the ravines is a luxuriant growth of 
shrubs and lianes, but the latter making such a tangle that 
they were in some places almost impassable. 

In many parts the clear waters of the river ran over and 
through the rocks with considerable force and noise ; in others 
glided on in silence, without a ripple on their surface ; and 
again, down they plunged with a sullen roar to a great depth. 

Close to the water the ground is encumbered with rocks, all 
covered with mosses and uprooted trunks of trees, on which grow 
lichens and rare fungi. 

Many ferns grow here peculiar to the island, some amongst the 
disintegrated rocks and some in the soft vegetable mould ; the 
fronds, delicate and perfect as the most elegant plumes of 
feathers, waving gracefully in the light breezes playing through 
the ravines. 

A short distance from Eeduit are the falls par excellence, 
which, in the rainy season, send a heavy body of water into the 
deep basin below, that is fringed with still finer ferns, from the 
spray always dashing over them. In some places on the sides 
of the ravines the Malabars have cleared the land, and made 
fine vegetable gardens., the produce of which is sold in Port 
Louis. 

The lover of the pastoral, the admirer of rocks and ravines, 
the sentimental seeker of shady glades, purling streams, or braw- 
ling brooks, the venturesome scalers of mountain heights, and 
the explorer of subterranean caverns, may all find their various 
tastes gratified in this neighbourhood. 



192 



FERNERY. 



[Ch. XV. 



Attached to Eeduit is a beautiful fernery, containing not 
only the greater part of the ferns indigenous to Mauritius, but 
many introduced from foreign countries. The native orchids 
are there also, as well as many fine specimens from Madagascar. 
It is kept with the greatest care, and is especially under the 
auspices of Lady Barkly, who takes particular interest in it. At 
most of the flower shows may be seen a collection of ferns, 
orchids, and lycopodia in her name, for which she has carried 
ofif several prizes. 

There is also an aviary, containing all the native and accli- 




TROPICAL SCENE. 



matised birds of Mauritius, and many lovely foreign ones, 
principally from India and Australia. 

Since my first visit, Eeduit has suffered terribly by the cyclone 
of March 1868. 

The right wing of the house was nearly destroyed, and this 
caused great alarm to the inhabitants. 

It was of wood, like most old houses here, but it is now being 
substantially rebuilt of stone. 

The gardens too were sadly damaged, and many fine trees of 
nearly a century's growth were uprooted. 



Ch. XV.] REDUIT. 193 

Fortunately nature soon spreads a new covering of leaves over 
the ravages made by the elements ; but the real injury to fruit- 
trees is serious, as it destroys all blossom for the season, and in 
place of the mango and other trees being laden with their 
luscious burden, we have only masses of leaves. 

Taken altogether, Eeduit is one of the pleasantest retreats 
in the colony, and does infinite credit to the taste of M. David, 
who selected so delightful a spot for a summer residence. 



riHAPTER XVT. 

THE MARRIAGE CEREMONY OF THE MADRAS MALABAR INDIANS. 

Permission to visit a Wedding-feast — Preliminary Ceremonies — Initiation of 
Bridegroom — Initiation of Bride —Intermediate Ablutions and Change of Dress 
— Description of the Bride's second Appearance — The actual Marriage — Presents 
to the Groom, and his Share of the Proceedings — Only Food allowed the 
Wedded Pair — Sprees on the Third Day — Consunamation. 

I HAD never seen a Malabar wedding, nor could I get any 
information from my friends about one ; so I instructed my ser- 
vant, who is a Madrassee himself, to give me notice when one 
would take place among his own friends, and get me permission 
to witness it. 

One day I was informed there was to be a grand gathering in 
Moka Street, as a wedding was in contemplation. Better still, 
the happy man was an intimate friend of Bopchia (mentioned 
in my trip up the Pouce), and I had full permission to see the 
whole ceremony if I chose. 

Grreat preparations were made, and an infinity of presents 
collected for the occasion. A house was hired for the three 
days during which the wedding festivities are kept up. On a 
day, sunshiny enough to satisfy any bride, at eleven o'clock, a 
large party set out in procession, beai'ing aloft the presents on 
their heads. 

These consisted of wreaths of flowers, bananas, pine-apples, 
cocoa-nuts, areca-nuts, betel, different coloured powders, incense, 
pumpkins, &c., all of which were arranged with flowers, and 
placed on trays covered with white cloths. 

When some distance from the house the company halted, 
the presents were uncovered, and one of the party entered 
to inform the bride's mother of their presence. A band of 
music was sent to escort them, consisting of a tom-tom, two 
clarionets, and two pairs of cymbals, and then the procession 



Ch. XVI.] A WEDDING. 195 

moved on to the entrance. This was a doorway leading to a 
large yard, with the never-failing cocoa-nut and banana leaves 
to adorn it. 

On passing in, at the rear of the house was seen a large place 
enclosed with canvas, where a concourse of Indians, dressed in 
their best, was assembled. 

On approaching this tent the music ceased and an Indian 
appeared, demanding a piece of money, which was instantly 
given ; and I found it was the value of the bride, or the stipu- 
lated present to the father of the woman, which takes the form 
of purchase, and converts the whole affair into a bargain or sale. 
This state of things I learn stands prominently out in certain 
phases of Indian society, under which social system large sums 
are frequently given by the father of a daughter of a lower 
caste to induce a man of higher class to consent to his son's 
marriage. 

In a few minutes two young dancing-girls came out, hand- 
somely dressed in white Dacca muslin chemises, with long 
graceful robes of Indian figured silk, and their heads arranged 
with gold ornaments. I could not help admiring their small 
delicate forms and tiny hands and feet, as they stood holding 
up a dish of a liquid like blood, made of saffron and lime, and 
singing a plaintive melody. 

When they had finished, the band struck up some lively tune, 
and then the whole party entered the tent. 

In front of a sofa sat a Brahmin priest, cross-legged, a number 
of cocoa-nut oil lamps burning round him, and between them a 
large round stone used for preparing curry, representing* a 
goddess, and dishes filled with rice and fruits. When he had 
arranged all to his liking, the music played quickly, and the 
bridegroom made his appearance, attended by his nearest friend. 
He was a young man about twenty-two years of age, slightly 
built, with long flowing black hair. He had on a bright yellow 
dress edged with gold lace, and wore on his head a most 
curiously-constructed white turban. He seated himself cross- 
legged on the sofa, and a few women then came in. The mother 
of the bride had a van' in her hands, containing oil and other 
articles for bathing purposes, small manioc cakes, and a bunch 

' A van is a sort of flat basket for cleaning rice. 



196 MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. [Ch. XVI. 

of dried grass. Taking a position directly before the bride- 
groom, she anointed him with the oil by touching his knees and 
shoulders, then on the top of his head, repeating a prayer for 
liis future prosperity and happiness, and was followed by the 
other women, who had previously stood behind him : they 
repeated the same ceremonies. 

The bridegroom, who had been sitting all this time patiently, 
retired, and the bride put in her first appearance, looking very 
downcast and sad, led in by her attendants. 

She was about eighteen, good-looking and plump, and was 
placed cross-legged also on the sofa, and all the same rites were 
gone through with her. 

The Brahmin priest then blessed her, and a tray was brought 
forward containing the marriage-string, the wedding garments, 
wreaths, &c. ; and a brass pot full of boiled rice was also 
brought in, and pieces of banana leaves were spread out. A 
woman filled each leaf with rice, adding milk, cream, ghee 
and sugar ; the priest, lighting a few coals in a censer, and 
sprinkling incense (benj amine powder) over them, waved the 
censer backwards and forwards over the rice, as also a piece of 
burning camphor as an offering to the gods and goddesses, said 
to be present in the tent, to witness the marriage, and invoked 
their blessings on the pair. The bride was then led away to 
an adjoining room, to prepare her for the rest of the ceremony. 

Meantime her lord and master soon to be was busy washing 
his body in the yard, and then all returned to the tent ; after 
which the bridegroom broke a cocoa-nut and burnt a piece of 
camphor, to invoke the Sun's blessing on the pair ; the music 
playing vigorously whilst waiting the re-appearance of the bride. 
Her dress is always changed at this stage of the ceremony, for 
fear of any spot of dirt on it, which would be unlucky. 

Presently in she came with her attendants, dressed in a 
beautiful robe of crimson and gold-figured silk. On her head 
she wore a plait of rose and other flower-buds, extending from 
her forehead to her shoulders ; across it was laid an ornament 
about six inches long and two wide, with gold and silver rosettes 
dangling from it ; at the end of each was a little dove holding 
a bunch of flowers in its beak, and those fell round her face 
so as almost entirely to hide it from view, and I presume to 
spare her blushes. 



Ch. XVI.] A MARRIAGE SERVICE. 197 

I pitied the poor thing- under such a load in a hot day, 
particularly when they told me it had to be worn for three 
nights and three days, during which time it is supposed not to 
wither if she is a good girl ; should it do so she must pay a fine 
to Bramah, but I believe it is not often enforced. Her arms 
were bare, and smeared with a paste of sandal-wood ashes, also 
for luck. When she was properly seated, the groom took his 
place beside her on the sofa. The priest then lighted a small 
fire and poured oil over it, which he dipped from a basin with 
a maize leaf. (This is Ms invocation for the babies.) He then 
sprinkled rice over the shoulders of bride and groom, and held 
towards them a copper dish filled with rice, bananas, and cocoa- 
nuts. They both had their hands filled with the mixture, then 
they put some in each other's hands, and after this the dish 
was carried round, and everyone, down to the smallest child, 
placed both hands in it. This is to show that there are plenty 
of witnesses to the compact, and that if they break their oaths 
there are numbers to prove the perjury. 

The bridegroom then placed a yellow silk cord round the 
bride's neck, which is her wedding-ring and proof of her 
marriage. At this a general clapping of hands took place, the 
band played some quick tune, and everyone looked pleased. 

The priest again came forward and tied the ends of their 
robes together to prevent the demons from touching them ; and 
two of the brothers, one for each side, sat down before him 
while he repeated the names of the newly-married couple, 
Thomas^ and Pomona. They (the brothers) then vowed to 
give notice to all the world that they were satisfied with the 
match, and had witnessed the marriage. They rose, and the 
groom filled their hands with rice, washed their feet in water, 
with lime infused into it, and threw rice over them, and the 
bride did the same. 

The happy pair were then marked on the forehead and 
conducted by two girls, neatly dressed in white, three times 
round the place, one carrying a lighted taper, the other a dish 
of fruit, to receive the congratulations of their friends. When 
tlie third round was completed, the bride placed her foot on the 

' Thomas was a Catholic, and had a service in the church ; but as his wife was 
a Malabar, he was obliged to go through all her ceremonies as well as his own. 



198 A HAPPY PAIR. [Ch. XVI. 

curry-stone above alluded to, representing a goddess, and the 
brother handed the bridegroom four silver rings, which he 
placed on the second toes of each foot. This was an oath taken 
before the goddess that all was fair dealing between the 
families, and to impress on them not to deceive each other. 

An unmarried woman may wear as many armlets and earrings 
as her caprice, the length of her purse, or liberality of her 
lovers will permit ; but the toe-rings are the privilege of the 
wedded state only. 

Once more the newly-married pair were seated in state on 
the sofa, and one of the girls held up the dish of saffron, to keep 
away all evil eyes, and sang a song which seemed to give great 
satisfaction to all present, and then the friends each threw a 
small quantity of rice over the patient couple. 

Now came the crowning point in the ceremony, as far as the 
groom is concerned. Presents of money are given by every one 
of the assembled relatives and friends, and a considerable pile 
was soon accumulated — luckily for him, for the wedding cost 
him about a hundred and fifty dollars, besides as much rice as 
could be consumed in three days. 

A dance was performed by the girls of the family only, and 
then the feasting began. 

The groom is compelled to give food for three days to all his 
guests and relatives, such as rice, vegetables, milk and fruit. 
N^o meat is allowed to be eaten, and wine is utterly forbidden, 
under a heavy penalty to the groom. If a man chooses to go 
and drink outside he can, but no intoxicating liquor is allowed 
to enter the sacred precints. Thus, though the noise and fun 
are fast and furious, drunkenness is unknown. 

But to return to the happy (?) pair. They are only permitted 
to take bananas, milk, or vegetables, once a day, towards 
evening, for the three days. They are kept in state, and guarded 
by the relations. 

On the third day, in the afternoon, a regular spree takes 
place. They all go to a river, where the bride's wreath is thrown 
in, which answers the same purpose as the slipper thrown with 
us, viz. for good luck. All retiun, and the now free man and 
wife take an active share in the fun. They are allowed to 
sprinkle every one near them with the saffron mixture, which 
they do in right good earnest, and which is taken as a hint to 



Ch. XVI.] AN ORDEAL. ^99 

be off, and then he carries her away to his own house to com- 
raence the honeymoon. 

How would our fair belles of Europe or America like to un- 
dergo such an ordeal? I guess that many a damsel would 
hesitate before saying ' yes ' to a three dnys' ceremony such 
as just described. 



CHAPTER XVIL 

FLAT ISLAND. 

Our Skipper — View inland — Turtle Bay^ — Old French Fort — Graud Baie — Whales 
— Cannonier's Point — Land near Grand Baie — Fishing — Gunners' Quoin — The 
Pass — Our Welcome —Quarantine Station — Water Supply — Wells — Plants and 
Trees — Our Quarters — Landing-bridge — Columba Kock — On the Eeefs — Corals 
— Polyps — Zoophytes — Algae — Palisade Bay — Lighthouse — Cemetery — The 
Mountain — Geological Features — Caves — Gabriel Island — The Quoin — Detached 
Rocks on Mountain — Volcanoes supposed to have been in this Vicinity— Return. 

The Surveyor-G-eneral's department has a fine yaclit nsed for 
Grovernment purposes ; and as one of its officers was about to 
proceed to Flat Island on business, I gladly availed myself of an 
invitation to visit it. In April 1869 we sailed out of the Fan- 
faron, with a fair breeze and a flowing sail. 

The old and careful skipper of the boat was sick with fever, 
and his place was filled by a young creole, who was probably 
more daring, and hoisted all sail, which, though it sped us on 
our way, made it somewhat uncomfortable on deck, as we were 
constantly taking in water. This, with the gloomy morning 
and occasional showers, frequently drove us below, where we 
found very jolly quarters. 

We sailed along the outer edge of the reef till we reached 
Tombeau Bay, when we steered to the north. There we had a 
fine view inland of the Black Eiver range as far as the north- 
eastern spur of Montague Longue ; and I think this view, which 
takes in at a glance all its singular peaks, is one of the grandest 
in Mauritius. Behind us the Pointe aux Canes, in the distance, 
looked like a long narrow promontory extending far into 
the sea. 

The country NE. of Tombeau Bay is flat, and presents nothing 
near the coast but a few fishermen's huts with a lime-kiln or 
two, and some scattered corca and filoa trees. We next 



ch. xvil] view inland. 



20I 



passed the pretty little arm of the sea called Turtle Bay, on 
account, it is said, of the great numbers of that Chelonia of al- 
dermanic repute formerly caught here, as they visited these 
shores to deposit their eggs. There are, I suppose, still some 
in the neighbourhood, as once a week an hotel-keeper in Port 
Louis advertises ' Eeal genuine turtle-soup ready this day at 
noon ; ' but I should doubt its approval at the Mansion House 
or Fifth Avenue Hotel ! 

The residence, with the flour-mills and distillery, spoken of 
in another chapter, stand at the head of this bay ; and some- 
one displayed great taste by adorning its shores, one side with 
filoas, and the other with cocoa-nut trees. 

The land is covered with rank coarse grass, and at the Point 
aux Piments the shore is steep and rocky, the waves breaking 
directly upon it. The' ruins of an old French fortification 
stand on this Point. Only a portion of the walls of the officers' 
quarters and the north-west end of the building remain. 

Then comes Grand Baie. Whales are occasionally caught 
very near this part of the island. On the 20th of this month 
Captain Sherman, of the American bark ' Young Phoenix,' when 
about to come to anchor off the Bell Buoy, heard the welcome 
cry from the mast-head of ' There she blows ! ' Immediately 
all was bustle on board ; the boats were lowered, and in a very 
few minutes they were rowing away from the ship, which was 
put about, and the pilot, who was already on board, took to his 
boat and returned to Port Louis. Away went the bark after 
her boats, which were pulling vigorously, each straining to get 
in the first harpoon ; and it was not long before they killed five 
of these monsters of the deep. They were soon cut up and 
boiled, and the ship netted 10,000 dollars. 

Punning out some distance into the sea is Cannonier's Point, 
a ledge of rock over which the waves foam and surge turbu- 
lently. On the Point stands a lighthouse with a fixed catop- 
tric light — a most needful beacon to warn mariners against the 
reefs to the NE. and SW. of the Point, also to indicate the 
dangerous shoal in its vicinity. There is a quarantine estab- 
lishment for vessels arriving with small-pox or any other con- 
tagious disease. It is also a military post, so that a number of 
houses have been built, very conveniently situated for the gar- 
rison, as well as the isolated buildings for immigrants. 

P 



202 GUNNERS' QUOIN. [Ch. XVII. 

Grand Bale is inhabited principally by fishermen, famed for 
their skill in the management of their boats and pirogues. Most 
of the land in the vicinity is cultivated with canes. It is a 
marvel how anything can grow, judging from its appearance, 
for it is covered with boulders of every size, up to masses many 
tons in weight. Huge cairn-like piles of rocks lie in all direc- 
tions, and are intersected by what appear to be low walls, but 
which are in reality the aforesaid boulders rolled together, and 
the only earth for planting lies between them. This, however, 
is rich loamy soil, and suited to most tropical productions. 

Before the railroad was opened, great quantities of sugar were 
shipped hence to Port Louis from the Pamplemousses district. 
A great part of the fish sold in the city market daily is brought 
from Grrand Bale, Point aux Piments, and Tombeau Bay. 

We now steered for the Grunners' Quoin, or Coin de Mire, and 
were soon opposite this curious rock. The sea was very rough 
here, but our craft danced bravely over the waves, though at 
times standing at an angle of ten degrees. I shall speak of 
the singular formation of this cliff later on. A small cave has 
been hollowed out of it on the NW. side by a fisherman,^ who 
sometimes remains there all night pursuing his occupation. 
At one point, when passing through the channel between the 
Quoin and Flat Island, a side view of the rock gives an excel- 
lent profile of the Iron Duke. There he is with his chapeau on, 
and his very prominent nose standing out in such good relief 
as to produce an unmistakable likeness. I should prefer giving 
it the name of Wellington Eock, in honour of one of the greatest 
men of his time. 

The current in this channel, which sets in a westerly direction, 
greatly retarded our progress, and a heavy cross sea made us 
pitch and toss about most uncomfortably ; and as we rounded 
the Pass between Grabriel and Flat Islands, the sea rolled and 
broke over us, drenching our decks. Our skipper, however, 
skilfully carried us in alongside the stone jetty lately built by 
the Government. I confess I was not sorry to find myself again 
on terra firma. We were received by Captain Green, who has 
the charge of the island, and Mr. Edwards, the lighthouse- 

' The probability is, that trie mdn has enlarged one of the many natvral cavitiefc 
to be found on this coast. 



Ch. XVII.] FLAT ISLAND. 203 

keeper, who gave us a cordial welcome to their limited ter- 
ritory. 

We were told that at times the Pass is so dangerous, that 
often days elapse when boats dare not enter, and they are 
obliged to lay at anchor outside — a very miserable position, I 
should think, on account of the heavy swell caused by the sea 
rolling in over the shoal coral-beds. Not long since a boat up- 
set and broke to pieces, and the occupants, two ladies and a 
gentleman, were drowned. There is a signal station here, to 
give notice if it is practicable for boats to enter. 

Flat Island is also a quarantine station, and the Grovernment 
has erected numerous substantial buildings, made roads, planted 
trees, sunk wells, and beautified the place so as to make it 
pleasantly habitable. Works containing a condensing apparatus 
stand near the jetty, in which 12,000 gallons of pure water can 
be condensed in twenty-four hours. A donkey-engine is used 
for this purpose ; and after the water is condensed, it passes 
through an iron filter three feet deep by eighteen inches in 
diameter, and is then conveyed into iron tanks, each con- 
taining 400 gallons. The whole establishment is in excellent 
order, and must have cost the Grovernment a considerable sum 
of money. 

Wells have been dug for cattle, some of them from eight to 
ten feet deep, which are cut through the loose volcanic rocks and 
a lower strata of conglomerate, composed of fine particles of 
various marine substances in process of solidification, similar to 
that I observed near the jetty, and resting on a bed of coral. 
We were informed that the waters of these wells were unwhole- 
some for man, as they possess deleterious ingredients that fre- 
quently act as a purgative. I concluded they contain a large 
quantity of lime, from passing through the decomposed coral 
and shells, which abound everywhere under the surface. 

We proceeded over a good road laid out on an elevated 
dune, which reaches from east to west on the north-west shore. 
Everywhere we saw patches of a pretty little shrub, whose bright 
green leaves relieved the eye from the glare of the sun. The 
Psiadia glutinosa, or Flat Island Balm, which takes its name 
from the place, and is used by the Creoles very successfully for 
cuts and other wounds ; the Citronella (Andropogon Schcenan- 
thus), and sundry coarse grasses, were abundant. We also found 



204 COLUMBA OR PIGEON ROCK. [Ch. XVII. 

plants of the IpoTnoea maritima, Eugenia cordifolia, Wcenigia 
maritima, and Purina raaritima. I gathered only two ferns, 
the Adiantum caudatum and Phymatodes vulgaris. 

The Latania glaucophylla flourishes here, the seeds of 
which are constantly brought by the currents from Eound Island, 
and grow very rapidly. These, with filaos and cocoa-palras, 
were planted in the valley, and added much to the miniature 
landscape. 

We were shown to what had been the doctor's quarters ; and, 
after depositing our vasculums and traps, and making ourselves 
presentable, we went to Captain Grreen's house, where we found 
a capital breakfast prepared for us, most welcome to himgry 
voyagers. 

Flat Island is nearly a mile wide, and the valley extends 
almost across it. The Quarantine-houses are on the south- 
west, and near them, on the beach of a small inlet, the rocks 
have been removed, and an elevated bridge built, which runs 
out for about 100 feet, in order to facilitate the landing in 
rough weather. The bridge is ascended by a ladder about 
twenty feet high, so that generally a safe debarcation can be 
efiected. 

Near this point is the curious Columba or Pigeon Eock, 
whose top is white with guano. The sides appear almost per- 
pendicular, but could, nevertheless, be easily ascended if a safe 
landing could be secured. When we saw it, the waves were 
madly breaking against it, throwing up columns of spray, and 
the current swirling rapidly round its base. This is an iso- 
lated basaltic cliff, about half a mile from the shore, and rises 
to the height of 110 feet; the top appearing nearly level. 
On the shore opposite the Columba a ridge of detached 
basaltic rocks extends, piled up irregularly, but all resting on 
coral. 

Being the full of the moon, the tides were unusually low, 
with a strong trade wind blowing, so that some parts of the 
reefs were nearly uncovered, and by jumping from rock to rock 
I managed to reach them. Polyps in myriads were around me, 
and in some places I could see the various madrepores and mean- 
drinas at work, carrying on their never-ending-still-beginning 
process of building. The animals of the latter begin to work 
in a circle, and gradually, by the slowest stages, they build up 



Ch. XVII.J POLYPE. 205 

the walls within and without, finishing the whole with a dome- 
like covering. How slow the operation is may be imagined, 
when Professor Agassiz writes, that ' an inch in fourteen years, 
or a foot a century,' is the average rate at which corals are 
formed. 

The little star-shaped creatures of the madrepores radiated 
the loveliest colours from their tentaculag, as they moved in and 
out of their habitations, and with a strong lens every move- 
ment could be seen. 

Thousands of a fleshy polyp covered the rocks, making the 
scrambling over them slippery work. They were in patches, 
and each community was about an inch in diameter. Their 
colour was a reddish purple, with a pink mouth and tentaculse, 
and they were an interesting sight. Though these animals 
live in communities, and are imbedded in a jelly-like matrix, 
each appears to have a perfectly independent existence. Cut 
them in a dozen pieces, and they will still go on multiplying, 
as you only destroy the bodies you actually separate. 

I noticed a number of zoophytes which I believe to be Flustras ; 
their beautiful leaf-like forms could easily be taken for the 
Pavonia coated with lime. Echinoides, star-fish, and crabs were 
in myriads. I collected many specimens of Algae from the 
rocks and pools, including the following genera : Eucheuma, 
Grigartina, Caulerpa, Ceramium, Pavonia, Ulva, Sargassum, 
and Digenia. I found here, for the first time, the curious 
Eucheurria horriduon of Agard. This plant is of a deep livid 
purple when alive, but turns to a greyish purple, variegated with 
orange, when dried. It resembles in external structure one of 
the thorny cacti, but the thick fleshy stems are scarcely 
recognisable when dry. The shells I found were small and 
insignificant of their species. I quitted the reef at last, very 
reluctantly, but the returning tide warned me of the danger of 
delay, and I sought the shore in all haste. 

At this side of the island is Palisade Bay, and from it to the 
jetty are found strata of basaltic sandstone. Near the jetty I 
observed large slabs, which appear to have been detached from 
their original beds. This sandstone is formed by the aggrega- 
tion of fragments of broken shells, corals and disintegrated 
volcanic rocks, and other matter thrown up from the sea, and 
agglutinated by the carbonate of lime in it. 



2o6 



LIGHTHOUSE ROCK. 



[Ch. XVII. 



Further out on the coral beds a similar formation is still 
going on, and very rapidly too. In Dr. Ayres' account of Flat 
Island, he mentions that the engineer informed him ' that the 
holes excavated for the piers of the jetty were immediately 
filled with sand, which in a very short time was converted into 
solid sandstone.' ^ 

On the east of the island is its one mountain, and on it stands 
the lighthouse, built on a small plateau, at the height of 370 
feet above sea level. It shows a revolving catoptric light of the 
first order. On this plateau is a grave cut in the sandstone, in 
which lies buried Mrs. Sarah Creed, the wife of a former keeper 
of the lighthouse. She died of chojerain 1854, and the present 




LIGHTHOUSE ROCK, FLAT ISLAND. 



keeper still tends the lonely spot, and has adorned it by plant- 
ing flowers round the grave. The cemetery lies to the east of 
the island, and but too many have found a resting-place there. 
A short time since the skeleton of a man was found when 
making the road ; it was in a sitting posture, and was supposed 
to have been a victim to some assassin, possibly in the old days 



' This volcanic sand, or ' Pesserine,' is composed of comminuted basaltic rock, 
decomposed corals, and minute foraminiferous shells, and is more or less over the 
wliole island; that near the mountain containing most of the volcanic material, 
the rest with a larger proportion of sea and crab-shells, Echinoides, &;c. 



Ch. XVI I.] 



LIVING CORAL, 



207 



when piracy was rife in these seas. They carefully gathered his 
boQes, and laid them in a nameless grave in the cemetery. 

On ascending the mountain the same phenomena present 
themselves as at Eound Island. Between the different strata 
volcanic stones and pebbles lie in great regularity, indicating the 
various periods of activity of the neighbouring volcanoes. 

On the summit Mr. Edwards, at my request, cut out of the 
solid formation several species of coral, which had been 
imbedded in it when in a plastic state below the sea, and all 
were well preserved. Most of these corals can be found in a 
living state in the neighbourhood of the island on the reef. 
One specimen of Astrsea was as perfect as if just taken from the 
beach. Madrepora, Porites, Meandrina, and Millepora were 




THE gunners" quoin. 



very numerous, not only on the top, but on the deep fissures 
which occur on the south of the mountain, and even in the 
solid sides of the cliffs. Large masses of disintegrated coral and 
shells are also frequently met with in process of change to a 
hard compact limestone. 

The west and south sides of this mountain are steep ; the latter 
a little sloping, the former almost perpendicular. The dip of the 
strata is from east to west and north, at an angle of about 30°. 
The colour of the rocks varies as greatly as their formation ; the 
harder and unstratified being brownish black or grey blue, 
and others, showing more decided stratification, are of a red- 
dish ferruginous hue. The latter is so friable that it was with 



2o8 GABRIEL ISLAND. [Ch. XVII. 

difficulty I could bring away good specimens, as it crumbled 
easily in my hands. 

On the eastern slope are groups of huge detached rocks, 
heaped at random in a semicircle, which are true basalt, deposited 
there by the volcanic agency of which I shall speak presently. 
Many of them have been rolled into the valley below, and others 
into the sea. Degraded rocks and debris have been washed down 
in immense quantities from the sides of the mountain, filling 
the valley to such an extent that the sea has been gradually 
driven back, and the dry land formed. Even at the present day 
many parts of this valley are little above the level of the sea, 
and in some places ponds which are seldom dry are met \vith of 
brackish water. 

At the base of the mountain are several small caves caused 
by the action of the waves on the basaltic rocks, and towards 
the west is a three-chambered cavern formed by the sea forcing- 
its way through the interstices of the rocks and wearing them 
away, as is constantly seen in upheavals of this description. 

A great part of the island is covered with volcanic sand, but 
to the east lie dunes nearly thirty feet in height, which form a 
barrier to the sea. These dunes are as undulating as the 
ordinary sand-dunes of Europe. They are of recent formation 
in comparison with the age of the Lighthouse mountain, and in 
all probability, when the drifts first assumed sufficient tenacity 
to accumulate, the sea must have rolled between them and the 
mountain, over the coral beds on which they rest, and which 
are distinctly seen cropping out at low water mark. 

Across the narrow-boat channel from the jetty, at about half 
a mile distant, lies Grabriel Island ; to the north the chain of 
basaltic rocks, and the reefs are nearly uncovered at low tides. I 
am of opinion that Gabriel Island was once a part of the headland 
of Flat Island. At an early period it was covered with palms, 
vacoas and other endogenous trees, traces of which are now seen 
on the eastern side, represented by casts similar to those I 
observed at the Kesaux Aigrettes and Passe, near Mahebourg. 
Such casts are nowhere to be found at Flat Island, though I 
looked carefully for them, and enquired for them. These remains 
prove beyond a doubt that Grabriel Island was submerged and 
again upheaved. 

South-west of Flat Island, about four miles distant, stands the 



Ch. XVI L] volcanic islands. 209 

towering rock of the Gunner's Quoin, rising perpendicularly 
from the ocean to the height of 550 feet. Its formation 
resembles that of the Lighthouse Mountain, a crumbling 
volcanic sandstone. The strata lie in a south-easterly direction, 
at an angle of about thirty degrees, and are better defined than 
those on the mountain, as they are distinctly visible from the 
sea level to the summit. Part of the island of the Quoin at 
the eastern base is covered with volcanic stones and lava that 
once flowed over it from some volcano in its neighbourhood. 

I noticed the remains of a similar flow at the Table Eock at 
Round Island, and another at Amber Island, off the shore of 
the Riviere du Rempart district in Mauritius. They all indicate 
without doubt that a large and very active volcano existed 
between these islands. Another rose between the Quoin and 
Flat Island : the soundings of the channel by Mr. Corby, the 
Grovernment surveyor, prove the presence of deep holes where 
this has subsided. The semicircular group of detached volcanic 
rocks mentioned on the eastern summit of the Lighthouse 
Mountain entirely differ from the formation on which they 
lie (being pure basalt), and appear to have been deposited at a 
very recent date. They are little changed by the elements 
and show no indications of being water-worn. I think it is 
most probable they were ejected from the crater of the last- 
mentioned volcano. 

There is every reason to believe that the steep sides of the 
Pigeon Rock are parts of the wall of another volcano, the rest 
of which has disappeared beneath the surging billows, perhaps 
in some future age to rise again, its peaks abraded and water- 
worn. 

I have already stated that corals and marine shells are 
embedded in the different strata shown on the sides and top of 
the Lighthouse Mountain, many of them in good preservation, 
thus proving that they were deposited under water in horizontal 
beds. This mountain and the Quoin were doubtless once as 
round and perfect as Round and Serpent Islands, but the former 
were most likely divided at the time of their upheaval ; parts 
breaking away in violent storms and subsiding into the sea, 
their sides and general appearance warranting the belief. 

Upheavals which have a cone at their base often occur, but 
are not uplifted with sufficient force to break through the bed. 



2IO 



UPHEA VALS, 



[Ch. XVII. 



This is evidently the case at Eound and Serpent Islands, or 
perhaps there was force enough to cause them to open in the 
centre, but not to separate as in the Quoin and Flat Island. If 
this had been the case traces would, in all probability, have 
been visible, even if such openings had been filled by the effects 
of erosion. • Such upheavals are among the results of lateral 
eruption around great volcanoes near the sea. 

I was but too soon obliged to quit my researches in this 
interesting island and obey a summons from our skipper, who 
was homeward bound. I was very sorry my time was so short, 
for I could have spent many days here very profitably and 
pleasantly ; but my friend was obliged to return to Port Louis, 
so I had no alternative but to return also. 




OLD SLAVE CREOLES. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

LA CHASSE. 

The Hunting Season in Mauritius — Game preserved — An Invite — On the way to 
the Meet — Our Posts — The Quartiers militaires — How I obeyed Orders — Our 
Game — Ferns — Our Comrades' Luck — Owr Count — A Wild Boar — Return from 
the Chasse — Distribution of Game — Description of Cochon Marron. 



Hark ! hark ! who calleth the maiden morn 

From her sleep in the woods and stubble corn {i.e. canes)? 

The horn! The horn ! 
The merry sweet ring of hunter's horn. 

And a hunting we will go, my boys, 

And a hunting we will go. 



Deer-hunting in Mauritius is quite an institution, and is 
popular with both Europeans and Mauritians ; indeed, with the 
latter it amounts to a grande passion. When a chasse is 
proposed, no need then to complain of the ordinary indifference 
or laziness ; on the contrary, every one is roused to no end of 
activity. The hunting season begins on the 15th of May, and 
terminates at the end of August. 

In some of the districts of the island there are yet dense 
forests and jungle that have escaped the ruthless hand of man, 
and where Nature still revels in all her glory. The various 
hunting-grounds are strictly preserved and guarded with 
jealous care by their owners ; and woe betide the unlucky 
wight trespassing on them, or indulging a taste for venison, 
without having a porte d^armes in his pocket. Every particu- 
lar ground has its hangar or hunting-box, which is the 
rendezvous for the chasseurs. 

Invitations are sent out some days previous to the hunt ; the 
hour and place of the meet are specified — of course before 



212 HUNTING, [Ch. XVIII. 

the sun is up, and at the nearest point to the ground which is 
to be hunted over. 

I received an invite to one of these gatherings, and, after 
acceptance, one's first care is to provide a license to shoot for 
the season, for which ten dollars are demanded. Having looked 
well at rifle and ammunition, I started for the Moka district, to 
dine and pass the night with a Scotch friend and a young army- 
officer. The former is an old sportsman, and as fine a fellow as 
one could wish for a comrade ; and with him I was to proceed 
to the meet on the morrow, and make my debut as a chasseur 
in Mauritius. 

Up by daylight, a hasty cup of coffee, and away we sped as 
fast as two fleet horses could go over the seven miles intervening 
between us and the hangar of the gentleman w^ho gave the 
chasse. All along the road were carriages full of gentlemen 
armed with guns and couteaux de chasse, carts containing the 
dogs, servants with baskets of refreshments on their heads ; all 
was bustle and gaiety, in anticipation of a good time, and my 
host had to exchange salutations with almost everyone we met. 

When about half-way to our destination one of the horses 
cast a shoe, and we had to turn aside to Bonne Veine to have it 
put on again. Here we were hospitably received, and though 
our spirits were already excellent, a decanter of fine brandy was 
brought out, with cool sparkling soda-water, which raised them 
a little higher. Our friendly host also furnished us with an 
extra gun and ammunition. Tlie shoeing did not take long, 
and, thanking him for his attention and kindness in our need, 
on we went. I must say I have found that hospitality and 
friendliness are universal amongst both English and French 
planters. 

The morning broke gloomily with showers of rain, notwith- 
standing which a large party was assembled when we arrived at 
the Quartiers militaires. Here we left our carriage and went 
to the hangar, which was at some distance, on foot, by a narrow 
pathway through the wood. Soon all were assembled, and after 
a few words with Dr. N., the proprietor of the grounds, the 
business of the day began. 

About thirty of us were told off in squads and placed under 
the charge of a piqueur (a coloured man supposed to be well 
up to his work), to be posted. Along we went through the 



Ch. XVIII.] OUR POSTS, 



21 



woods, sometimes over the dry bed of a river ; now and then 
across a swamp filled with tall grass and weeds ; anon sinking 
to one's knees; wading across streams, and again forcing our way 
through trees, ferns, or canes. 

In some places the latter were so thick that it was with diffi- 
culty we could get through. Vegetation is here in the wildest 
luxuriance ; it was perfectly enchanting. I was delighted 
beyond measure. The magnificent ferns and orchids hanging 
from every tree, with here and there a bright-coloured flower 
contrasting with the dark foliage, drove all thoughts of la chasse 
out of my head ; I lagged behind— I could not help it, there 
was so much to admire. In vain my companions kept calling 
to me that I was pretty certain to get shot if I stopped behind 
them ; I was so bewildered with the beauty of the place, 
that it was most reluctantly, at last, I pushed on with my com- 
rades. 

One after another was posted till our party dwindled to three 
— my host of the morning, his young friend, and myself. 

At last W. was placed on an elevated spot of about two acres 
in extent, near an open swamp, on one side about five or six 
hundred feet across, with a small opening on the other, bordered 
by a dense jungle. Our conductor had received instructions 
from his master to allow me to remain with W. ; so I was left 
with strict injunctions to keep perfectly still, and not, on any 
account, to quit my post. 

I found it was an impossibility to obey such an order, and am 
sorry to say I broke the rules very soon after I was posted. 
Supposing there had been no attraction, I don't think I could 
have stood there the whole day, on the wet ground, and with a 
heavy shower now and then by way of variation. I soon set 
about exploring, and the result was two or three of thai 
pretty land-shell, the Helix pagoda, all of them alive ; also the 
Pupa sulcata, the largest and best specimens I ever obtained ; 
Garocolla semicirculata, Pupa lyoneciana, Helix aspersa, and 
two or three of the genus Helix unknown to me. 

In a stream I hastily examined, I took some Neretina lon- 
gispina, and a few water-plants, two of the genus Tetraspora, 
one Entromorpha, two of Eivularia, and one of Ulvacea ; and 
had I had time enough, I should have gathered (to me at least) 
many rich treasures. 



214 A CHAT. [Ch. XVIII 

I had strolled so far from W. and my own post that I 
suddenly came upon my other friend the Lieutenant, fast asleep 
on the grass, his rifle at his side, and his pipe on the ground just 
as it had dropped from his mouth. My first idea was to hide his 
rifle, and then fire mine over his head ; but on second thoughts 
I did not like to play such a trick on a comrade, but preferred 
awakening him by the drawing of a cork, a sound familiar and 
welcome to his ear. 

A drink and a pipe, and then he began to tell me his expe- 
rience in tiger-hunting in India, all of which I respectfully 
listened to. I had been a hunter all my life on our westeru 
prairies, great seaboard, and immense rivers, and recommended 
my friend to go to America, if he wanted to have his passion 
for sport gratified to the utmost. The buffalo, and grisly bear, 
the North American panther, and Moose deer, are all more 
difficult and dangerous brutes to hunt than the Bengal tiger. 

It ill betides the unlucky fellow who misses his shot with 
these animals, and woe to the huntsman who fails to keep very 
wide awake : to fall asleep would be certain death. Stag-hunting 
in Mauritius is one thing, but moose and carribo-hunting on 
the frontiers of North America is quite another. 

After a comfortable smoke and chat with my sociable com- 
panion, I started back to find my friend whom I had so long- 
deserted. ' Halloo,' said he, ' where have you been ? ' ' Stag- 
hunting,' was my reply. 'What luck?' ' I only saw one stag, 
but did not like to molest him ! ' We sat down to have some- 
thing to eat ; but whilst doing so, he sprang up, and told me to 
follow him, as a stag must be near, the dogs were all in full 
chase. 

I ran to the edge of a marsh with a small clump of trees 
intervening between me and the woods. A noble stag bounded 
out of the copse into the open, the dogs in full cry after him. 
They were about 600 yards off, but coming in an oblique 
direction towards me. 'Shall I fire?' I asked. 'Do you see 
him ? ' ' I do. ' All the time the stag was bounding before me. 
I raised my rifle, and fired. The ball took effect, and with one 
convulsive leap in the air, he fell dead on the spot. We both 
ran up. ' A good shot, and a long one ; you have killed a fine 
stag,' said W., who cut a notch in his ear for identification. 

The ball had entered the fore shoulder, and killed him in- 



Ch. XVIIL] FERNS. 215 

stantly, and a guardian soon made his appearance, to mark the 
spot were our game lay. 

We returned to finish our breakfast, and before we were well 
through, my friend, who is familiar with the Mauritian chase, 
was up again, and told me to keep quite still, as game was near. 
A faint yelping was heard in the distance, which soon grew 
very distinct on our right. Along came two or three beautiful 
does with theirs fawns, but we let them pass, as it is against 
the rules to kill them. Directly after came a fine stag, the 
dogs only a little distance behind. His career was soon cut short : 
W. raised his rifle, and sent a bullet so well home that he only 
ran a few yards and then dropped. We went up, but found he 
was not dead ; and he tried to use his. horns, but W. quickly 
dispatched him with his knife. Two noble stags falling under 
our guns, we felt very well satisfied with our day's work, but still 
eas'er for sport. Like the mariner I once made a voyage with, 
who took a drink of whiskey whenever he sighted a lighthouse, 
we considered we ought to have a bumper of wine whenever 
we killed a stag, which we did. 

Our stags were not, however, so numerous as the lighthouses 
were to the old salt. 

No more game appearing, I laid down my rifle, and wandered 
away again in search of ferns. This is one of the richest districts 
for Cryptogams in Mauritius. I soon had my hands full, and 
having no means of preserving them, I was obliged to make a 
packet and sling it round my neck. To give a description of 
them would be to mention half the ferns of the island ; they 
must be seen in their native wilds to be fully appreciated. 
The long ribbon-like fronds of the Ophioglossuw, pendulum, 
the large deeply-indented ones of the Lonchitis pubescens, as 
soft as if rich pile velvet ; Aspleniums, Nephrodiums, Tricho- 
manes, Gleichenias, the graceful Ochropteris pallens with its 
most delicate foliage ; Davallias, Polypodiums — I could ex- 
tend the list ad infinitum, and every fern a treasure, many 
peculiar to Mauritius. Elegant Lycopodiums shot forth theij 
fronds from old trees, their tassels often four or five inches in 
length, tossing saucily about with every wind, even the lightest 
zephyr. Orchids hung from many a branch ; Hibernias, Crypto- 
puses, and a host of others. Lianes entangled my feet at every 
step, their forms and names utterly unknown to me ; and occa- 

Q 



2l6 THE CHASSEURS. [Ch. XVIII. 

sionally a tree fern would rear its magnificent head, a crowning- 
beauty to the whole. 

I only regretted I was not at the chasse aux plantes instead 
of aux cerfs. The prickly raspberry was troublesomely abun- 
dant, and it scratches rather hard when its clumps are invaded ; 
but flavourless as it is, I found the slight acid grateful. Num- 
bers of guava trees grow wild, and were laden with fruit, and 
very good too. At times I had to scramble over some fallen 
giant of the forest, but its withered form was so covered with 
parasitical foliage it was, if possible, more beautiful than when 
alive ; its stately head was reared far above the surrounding 
shrubs that now shaded it from the ardour of the sun. The 
bark was so closely covered with mosses as to be almost invi- 
sible, and it, in its turn, formed a shelter for the roots of the 
delicate little Trichomanes Barklycv, discovered by Sir Henry 
Barkly, and named after him. Dense masses of the sombre 
Jamrosa gave shade impervious to the sun's rays, and I noticed 
some fine Diospyros Ebenum, or black ebony, amongst other 
large trees. 

In a little pond near our post, I saw some wild ducks, pro- 
bably the Anas Melleri (^Sclater), introduced from Madagascar. 
They were evidently breeding there, and though I should have 
liked a specimen, I refrained from molesting them. If not 
hunted for a few years, they will be numerous enough to 
afford the sportsman a pleasant day's shooting. 

On our left the chasseurs were keeping up a perfect fusillade. 
Bang ! bang ! every minute. 

W. observed, ' There must be many deer in these woods, and 
terrible slaughter going on ; look well to your rifle — it will be 
our turn soon.' Sure enough, in a few minutes another stag 
made his appearance, but when he got near us, he swerved ofl 
from his track, to an opposite direction. My friend, however, 
ran and headed him at a great distance, and sent a bullet through 
him, but he bounded on about a hundred yards before he felL 
' Hurrah for our party ! three stags ; but three are unlucky, 
we must have four ; we must look out sharp for another, 
said I. 

In the meantime our companion had joined us with bitter 
lamentations. He had shot by mistake a doe, which unfortu- 
nately had fallen on another property, and the guardian had 



Ch. XVIIL] 



SPORTSMEN'S LUCK. 



217 



secured it. We three were posted on the outermost limits of 
Dr. N.'s grounds, and we were told not to fire in a certain 
direction. Our friend had forgotten this, and finding it poor 
fun to be sitting all day in the rain, without doing something, 
he had fired at the first living thing he saw. 

We afterwards discovered that our comrades on the right 
were in much the same predicament, and had been amusing 
themselves with shooting at old stumps ; and one hunter had 
fired eleven shots at a target, he told me. This was the fusil- 
lade we had heard earlier in the morning. 




BUTTERFLY. 



We had now been on foot over six hours, so we concluded it 
best to make our way back to the hangar, for the rain had set 
in heavily, with no hope of a clear sky for that day. As we 
passed along the woods, we stopped at the different posts to 
listen to the yarns of each one's prowess. One gentleman swore 
he had shot six stags, but unfortunately they all sloped ; 
another had shot two, both of which a neighbour had fired his 
gun over and claimed. 

One old French gentleman positively asserted he had shot 
eight, but could only show us one, the rest having disappeared 
in the long grass ; his one was, however, a noble animal. 



2i8 OUR COUNT. [Ch. XVIII. 

At every post we examined the different firtarms, and dis- 
cussed the merits and demerits of the Queen's arms, muzzle- 
loaders, English and American revolving rifles, breech-loaders, 
&c., all of which were represented in our party. 

One old fellow looked quite annoyed when we told him we 
Had killed three, and meant to get another. Every hunter we 
met had killed from two to eight, so we began to multiply our 
bona fide three to ten — six Stags, and four Does shot by acci- 
dent. 

One of the party, however, before we reached the hangar, 
showed us a species of game no one had counted on being in 
this quarter — a fine wild boar. We were afraid to add pig to 
our list of ten deer, but by our arrival at the hangar most 
everyone had seen some, if not shot at them, and one only just 
missed a sow, with a litter of no end of young ones. We 
laughed, as we passed along, to see an old fellow, wrapped up in 
a coat and big woollen comforter, hugging a tree for shelter, 
and peering anxiously to right and left for a deer, regardless of 
Ihe rain falling in torrents. He told us the dogs had run 
down a fawn, and that he was sure he had shot the doe, but 
that she mysteriously disappeared in an impervious thicket. 
We lett him still on the look-out. 

We crossed a plain covered with wild guavas, which very 
likely is the attraction for the wild pigs ; the one which was 
shot was very fat, doubtless from feeding on this fruit. 

We halted about a mile from the hangar, to give the piqueur 
time to bring up the game, nauch of which was far off in the 
woods. By about half-past four the men began to bring in the 
deer, slung on poles, and by them it was all collected ; twelve 
goodly stags, and nine does and fawns (the latter accidentally 
shot), lay in evidence that there had been good shots and true. 

One of our stags was missing, it having fallen a few feet 
over another man's ground, and he refused to give it up. A 
curious scene is presented at the disembowelling, which took 
place when all were assembled. 

The yelling of the dogs for their share of the spoil; the 
swearing and chattering of the Creole and Malabar men ; the 
restive mules in the carts brought to carry home the game ; the 
hunters claiming this or that stag ; everyone talking and ges- 
ticulating at once, would have made a capital picture as ' The 



Ch. XVIIL] WILD BOARS. 219 

Return from the Chase,' and I wished for my photographic 
apparatus to catch so piquant a scene. 

As soon as the carts were loaded we took up our line of 
march for the hangar. Here the deer were cut up. It is cus- 
tomary to give the head and horns to the person who claims 
to have shot the stag, and the carcase is divided into quarters, 
the proprietor presenting a piece to each guest. When all was 
finished we made our way back to our carriage, and, wet and 
weary, were not sorry to exchange the mud and rain of the 
forest for a warm comfortable room and good dinner. 

The wild boar I mentioned as having been shot by one of 
our party belongs to the race called cochons marrons, sup- 
posed to be descendants of domestic pigs escaped to the woods 
at a very early period. 

Not having come in contact with this animal myself except 
on this occasion, I will quote an account of him, written by an 
old colonist : — 

' They occasionally attain great size, some males weighing so 
much as four hundred pounds, and have tusks nine inches long, 
measured outside the curve. They feed on worms, grubs, the 
seeds of the ebony and guava, and whatever else they find in 
their marauding excursions. They often do a great deal of 
mischief in the plantations of Savanne, Black River, and Grrand 
Port. 

' Their fondness for guavas has caused the spread of these 
trees, which are not indigenous. The wood is of unrivalled 
excellence for shafts and poles of carriages. 

' Great caution is required in hunting these cochons Tnarrons. 
They possess keen scent, and, when hunted, retreat to the fast- 
nesses of woods and marshes, and it is very difficult to dislodge 
them. If started, they lead dogs and men many a weary mile, 
and often make them pay dearly for their sport when they 
catch them.' 

Since writing the above I have attended many chases, and 
most on a different plan. Those given by Messrs. Currie,^ 
Autelme, and others, are on a very different plan. There is 
generally a meeting at the hangar, where refreshments are pro- 
vided for the chasseurs before proceeding to the woods, and on 

' I have received three invitations from these gentlemen, but some unforeseen 
contrariety always prevented my acceptance of them. 



220 A PLEASANT EVENING. [Ch. XVIII. 

their return they sit down to a handsome dinner, where the 
indigents of the day's sport are related over the best wines to 
be procured in the colony. Sometimes the chasse lasts several 
days, and beds are provided at the hangars for guests. 

At Flacq a party of gentlemen formed themselves into a sort 
of hunting club, and I have received many invitations. There 
the members draw for their stands on the ground before pro- 
ceeding to the chasse^ and they draw for their venison when 
the game is cut up. 

During the season there is a chasse about once a fortnight, 
and I have seen as many as thirty-six deer killed in a day. 
After the day's sport was over, it being too far to return to Port 
Louis, I joined some friends, and shall not easily forget the 
liospitality I have received, nor the pleasant evenings spent, at 
Richemare. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

A HINDOO FESTIVAL, 

Deities principall;y worshipped at this Fete — Temple at Koche Bois — Dress of both 
Sexes — The Old Man and his Jugglery — Burning and Flogging — Priests and 
Dancing Girls — Indian Musical Ideas — Walking through Fire — Sham Human 
Sacrifice — January Fete — Crowds in Attendance — Gouhns — The Priest's Blessing 
— Kefreshments — Jewellers plying their Trade — Idols — Torture as a Means to 
fulfil a Vow, or secure future Benefits— Boiling round tue Temple — Breaking 
Cocoa-nuts — The Tank — Ordeal by Diving — Sinnatambou — Precepts of tht^ 
Shastras in Eeference to these degrading Eites. 

In the Tamil month of Audi, corresponding in English witli 
the month of August or September, the Madras and Calcutta 
Indians hold a religious festival in honour of Doorga. Before 
describing it, I will give a slight account of this goddess, and 
of the two gods Kartikeya and Ganesa, all of whom play a 
prominent part in these revels. Doorga, alsc called Kallee or 
Throwpathy, is the chief among the female deities, and indeed 
the most potent and warlike member of the Hindoo pantheon. 
The Grreeks worshipped Minerva, an armed and martial goddess, 
but she was a meek and pacific maiden compared with the 
spouse of the Indian Destroyer. 

The wars waged by the latter, and the giants who fell be- 
neath the might of Doorga's arm, form prominent themes in 
the wild records of eastern mythology. Her original name 
was Parvati, but hearing that a giant called Doorga had en- 
slaved the gods, she resolved to destroy him. He is said to 
have led into the field a hundred millions of chariots and one 
hundred and twenty millions of elephants. In order to meet 
this overwhelming force, she caused nine millions of warriors, 
and a corresponding supply of weapons, to issue out of her own 
substance. The contest, however, was ultimately decided by her 
personal struggle with the giant, whose destruction she then 



222 DOORGA. [Ch. XIX. 

succeeded in effecting ; and in honour of this achievement, the 
gods conferred upon their deliverer the name of the huge 
enemy she had overcome. 

Doorga has equalled Vishnu in the variety of shapes she has 
multiplied herself into, and of names by which she has been 
distinguished. The most remarkable being with whom she 
has shared her identity is Call or Kalee, who, under her own 
name, is a principal object of Hindoo veneration. Every 
fierce characteristic in her original is in Kalee heightened and 
carried to the extreme. She is black, with four arms, wearing 
two dead bodies as earrings, a necklace of skulls, and the hands 
of several slaughtered giants round her waist as a girdle. 
Her eyebrows and breast appear streaming with the blood of 
monsters whom she has slain and devoured. 

Horrible as this picture is, India has no divinity more 
popular, nor one on whose shrine more lavish gifts are bestowed. 
Not content, as the male deities usually are supposed to be, 
with offerings of rice, fruit, milk, and vegetables, she must see 
her altars flow with the blood of goats and other animals; The 
ancient books contain directions for the performance even of 
human sacrifices to this cruel goddess. 

The bands of robbers that infest Bengal hold Kalee in 
peculiar honour, looking specially to her for protection and 
aid,. and invoking her blessing on their unhallowed exploits by 
dark incantations. 

Kartikeya is the god of war. He rides on a peacock, has 
six heads, and brandishes numerous weapons in his twelve 
hands. He presents a striking specimen of the fantastic forms 
in which Hindoo superstition invests its deities. 

Granesa is a fat personage, with the head of an elephant. 
But so important is this monstrosity, and so revered, that 
nothing must be begun without an invocation to him, whether 
it be an act of religious worship, opening a book, setting out 
on a journey, or even sitting down to write a letter. 

To go back to our festival. Being curious to see all I could 
of this singular people, I attended one of these fetes held in 
an open square at Eoche Bois, where there is a temple erected 
to the goddess Doorga. 

The whole of the rites form an inferior kind of Hindoo pan- 
theistic worship. By their Indian laws the worshippers ought 



Ch. XIX.] VOIVS. 223 

to live entirely on rice, milk, fruit, and vegetables ; but (like 
the Catholics) they can purchase a dispensation to eat fowl 
and mutton ; the Calcutta natives eat pork, but rarely the 
Madrassees. 

Large sums of money are collected yearly* Almost every 
prayer has its price, and nearly every attendance in the temple 
must be accompanied by some offering. These people are in 
the grossest ignorance ; few of them can read or write, and 
never was any nation more priest-ridden. One reason for this 
is that, though they believe Brama and the other gods and 
goddesses would not quit their magnificent temples in India to 
reside in these hut substitutes, yet they have implicit faith that 
they are aware of all their actions through the priests ; so the 
more conscientious a man is, the more he is in fear of them. 

Their religious rules are read to them, and they are very re- 
luctant to speak about their religion, in dread that the priests 
may find it out. 

Like all idolatei s, they are extremely superstitious, and have 
a firm belief in witchcraft, evil eye, charms and spells, which is 
not to be shaken. 

When very ill they generally make solemn vows to offer a 
sacrifice to Doorga when well. The breaking of such a vow is 
almost unknown, as they have not only the fear of the priest 
before their eyes, but they devoutly believe a broken vow will be 
followed by some dire punishment, such as blindness, leprosy, &c.^ 

' I ouce witnessed the fulfilling of avow. A friend was very ill with fever, and an 
old attached servant was in great grief, and vowed, that if his master should recover, 
he would offer up a fine cock he had bought for the purpose and duly fattened. Be- 
fore he was able to carry out his intentions, himself and all his family were stricken 
well-nigh to death. He then made an additional vow, to sacrifice a goat. As soon 
as all were well again, he bought a fine animal, and began his preparations; and 
these show pretty clearly whence their origin. 

The goat, like the Paschal lamb, must be a he-goat without blemish, and fed for 
some days on the best food its owner could afford. As many guests were asked as 
could eat it up, because, should a morsel be left on the premises, some dire calamity 
would befall him or his. It was killed on soft ground, where the blood could sink 
into the earth and leave no trace. It was then cut up ; a large piece was sent to 
his master, who had been very kind to him when ill, and the rest was roasted. 
Each guest had as much as he could eat, then his family, and lastly himself; what 
remained was given to the friends to take home. The cock was sacrificed later in 
the day, and eaten. Nothing would induce him to use the bird when ill, and re- 
quired soup himself. He said ' No, he had vowed it when he thought his master 
dying, and as God had heard his prayers, and saved him, the bird was sacred, and 
he had rather die than touch it.' 



224 OLD JUGGLER. [Ch. XIX. 

The gods Kartikeya and Granesa are also worshipped, but 
with fear and trembling : they hesitate even to pronounce their 
sacred names. 

Tlie temple at Eoche Bois is about a hundred feet square, 
with a large dome in the centre, and ornamented with minarets 
painted in different colours. Workmen were still engaged on 
the unfinished interior when I saw it. 

Thousands of Indians were assembled on the grounds with 
their yellow, pink, or scarlet robes wrapped in graceful folds 
around them. The men had massive gold or silver ear, toe. 
and finger rings, anklets, &c. The women wore the same, with 
the addition of large necklaces, often of heavy coins ; bracelets 
half up their arms ; many of them with a blaze of jewellery in 
their jet black hair, twisted into the curious one-sided knots 
that seem de rigueur in an Indian belle's toilet, and soaked in 
gingeli or other oils. 

Some were seated crossed-legged in groups, others were 
amusing themselves singing, riding on wooden horses, swinging, 
dancing, or with the music of a small drum called the tom-tom, 
which is beaten at one end with a stick and at the other with 
the fingers. 

A large circle was formed in one part of the square, in the 
centre of which was an old man entirely nude. 

The old fellow's skin looked more like an alligator's than a 
human integument. He was fully six feet high, of large frame 
— all skin and bone, a most pitiable-looking object. 

He built a fire between some large stones, and placed over it 
a brass kettle, in which were pieces of bark that soon ignited 
and emitted a pleasant odour like frankincense. Whilst the 
bark was burning, he took a roll of cloth, about a foot and a 
half long, and six inches broad, which he saturated in oil, and 
lighted at one end by the flame of a lamp. When it was in a 
blaze he placed it under his arm, and began dancing round the 
ring, chanting some prayers in some Hindoo tongue. Though 
his body was fearfully blistered, he continued for half an hour, 
till the torch was extinguished. 

He then approached the kettle, and stirring its contents, he 
took out a handful of the ashes of the burnt bark, placed them 
in the palm of his left hand, and walked round the circle, hold- 
ing out a plate in the right. 



Ch. XIX.] FLOGGING. 225 

Men, women, and children pressed forward, and all placed a 
copper coin in the plate, when each received a small quantity of 
ashes, which they rubbed on their foreheads ; then holding up 
the right hand to heaven, they repeated a prayer of thanks- 
giving that they had been blest by so holy a man, raised the 
left hand to the chin, and remained silent for about a minute. 

The old man then took up a coil of rope braided in the form 
of a serpent, and addressed a few words to the crowd. 

A well-dressed Indian soon came forward, and the old fellow 
muttered something, and then both set up a shout. 

Taking one turn round the circle, he uncoiled his rope, and 
began lashing the man over the head and face, bringing blood 
at every blow. The victim (or happy man, as everyone else called 
him) never winced, but stood motionless till the flagellation was 
over. He was then marked with ashes and scarlet paint, and 
retired, one of the heroes of the day. Others followed, till the 
old man's strength was exhausted. 

In the western part of the grounds were three houses, each 
about 100 feet long by 25, made of bamboo, and covered with 
palm-leaves. I entered one, and found it filled with a crowd 
of people, all in the height of Indian fashion. The nose-rings 
of some of the women were as large as saucers, which did not 
at all inconvenience them, as they eat through them. On 
one side sat three Indians, their heads shaved, and hideously 
painted. 

The centre one was beating a tom-tom, the one on the right 
playing on a sort of clarionet, from which he produced three 
notes, while the man's instrument on the left could only give 
forth one melancholy squeak, and the three combined were not 
unlike a bagpipe.^ 

Opposite them sat, cross-legged, several Indians. They were 
dressed in European costume, of fine black cloth and white 
cravats, with a curious white muslin cap with wings. Some were 
Bramin priests, and wardens of the temple. 

St. Cecilia certainly never deigned to visit India, and bless its inhabitants by 
instilling a little music into their souls. All that I have ever heard consists ol' 
monotonous chants of two or three notes, varied only by a rise or fall of the voice, 
accompanied by beating time with the fingers on anything to hand, even a stick 
0:1 a piece of wood, when no drum was to be had ; and this they will keep up for 
hours at night, to the great annoyance of their neighbours who have musical ears. 



226 DANCING GIRLS. [Ch. XIX. 

Three young women entered, bowed to the priests, and passed 
to the back of the house, divided from the rest by a curtain. In 
a few minutes they re-appeared, with a small white mark in the 
centre of the forehead, and the parting of the hair painted 
scarlet. After salaaming all round, they began dancing and 
singing, the music going on vigorously all the time. They 
kept it up till tired out, and then disappeared behind the screen 
again.* 

I intended visiting the other houses, but my attention was 
attracted by a crowd at the entrance. 

It was caused by a young man about twenty years old, 
lying quite nude on the ground. On enquiry I found that he 
had been very sick and had made a vow that if he survived he 
would roll round the temple ; and he was now about to fulfil it. 

As he rolled along his wife went before him to clear away any 
chips or stones that might hurt him. He appeared jn the last 
stage of consumption, and when he had performed the half of 
his task he fainted. 

Buckets of water were dashed over him, and he was restored 
to consciousness, the crowd urging and encouraging him. He 
finished the circle of the temple, and then fainted again. 

Four men removed him to the shade of a tamarind tree, 
where the women combed the dirt out of his long hair and 
washed his body. He was still speechless when I left, and I 
felt certain he could not long survive his task. 

In the centre house six or eight drums and clarionets were 
making such a horrid din, the men hooting and howling at the 
top of their voices, that I feared to enter such a pandemonium 
lest I should be summarily ejected, or, still worse, kept in, when 
I should assuredly have been deaf in two minutes. Whilst I 
was looking about me, a rush was made to the centre of the 
grounds, where a large crowd soon assembled. Piles of wood 
were burning, which in about an hour became a bed of 
live embers. Two nude men, having long-handled rakes, were 

' These women are set apart for dancing at these religious fetes from childhood. 
They do not reside here, but come from India in time for the festival. They are 
a sort of nuns, and are compelled to lead a life of celibacy, apart from everj^one, 
and eat only fruit, milk, and vegetables. They are kept at the public expense, and 
three different ones are sent every year, free passage being given them. Should 
any break their vows of celibacy, they are expelled the temple with the greatest 
ignominy, and their houses are razed to the ground. 



Cir. XIX.] RUNNING UPON FIRE. 227 

employed in getting out the unburn t pieces of wood, and distribu- 
ting the embers over a square of about twenty-iive feet. An 
excavation was made on one side about a foot deep and six 
square, in close proximity to the bed of embers, and filled with 
water. During this raking, several people were employed 
dashing water over the men to prevent their being scorched by 
the heat, which was almost intolerable even where I stood. 

Everything being pronounced ready by the priest who 
superintended the whole, music was heard in the distance, and 
a procession moved along the grassy plain, preceded by men 
bearing on their shoulders a small platform, on which was an 
image dressed in Indian costume, loaded with jewellery. They 
came on in silence, and halted near the burning mass. Presently 
another similar procession advanced from the opposite side, 
and faced the first. At a given signal, an old man, with only a 
cloth round his loins, bearing a child in his arms, stepped into 
the square, and walked unflinchingly across the glowing bed 
of embers. Three young men followed, and then a dozen rushed 
in and ran across, stopping for a moment to cool their feet in 
the trench filled with water. The contortions, screeching, and 
yelling of these latter were terrible, and I turned away sick at 
heart from the sight.^ This part of the rites is called thinnery., 
or running upon fire. 

It seemed to me literally the old worship of Moloch revived, 

' Strange to say, the Indians persist they do not get burnt. For at least a 
month previously they undergo severe fasts, taking little except rice and milk ; do 
not even touch grease or animal food ; pray incessantly, get the priest's blessing, 
and then walk fearlessly over the burning embers. They say it is only those who 
have eaten forbidden food (especially salt fish), got drunk, or committed some un- 
repented sin, who get burnt. 

They have each to pay four or five dollars for the privilege of passing over the 
fire. My domestic was quite grieved he could not be one of the performers ; 
having my dinner to cook every day, of course he was unfitted to be one. It must, 
however, be remarked that the men who take part in such monstrous atrocities are 
but low-caste men. 

An educated Hindoo gentleman, now on a business visit to this colony, wrote on 
this very subject in an article in the Commercial Gazette as follows : — 

' Can it be said that it is no reproach upon the intelligence of the Indian public? 
Mr. Editor, to speak the truth, this kind of worship and service to the Hindoo 
deities is not enjoined in our own Vedas ; bvit these blinded votaries, from a 
mistaken idea of invoking by dark incantations the protection and aid of the cruel 
goddess to bless their exploits of robbery, &c., subject themselves to the perform- 
ance of inhuman deeds.' 



228 A CURIOUS RITE. [Ch. XIX. 

and anything more heathenish and devilish I cannot imagine. 
I then entered the house I had previously passed by, as it 
appeared to be a great centre of attraction. On one side of it 
stood a curiously-painted wooden horse, and in the centre was 
a large block of wood, near which lay a copper dish and a 
formidable carving-knife. Soon after I entered the usual row 
of tom-toms began, with a queer sort of singing, and after 
every sixteen words there was a loud shout from all assembled. 
After a few minutes four men entered, bearing in something 
covered with a white cloth, which they laid on the floor. 

Presently one end of it was raised, when, lo and behold ! a 
man's head lay on the block. Two men danced and chanted a 
sort of funeral lament round the body, the instruments wailing 
out horrible discords ; one of them brandished the knife, and at 
one blow severed the head from the body, which rolled on the 
floor, the blood flowing into the basin. 

This was a sacrifice to Doorga. Probably in former times it 
was a real victim offered up — a sort of judicial sacrifice, as far as 
I could make out ; now they make a very clever imitation of 
a human being, and go through the customary ceremonies. 

In 1868, on account of the fever raging amongst the Indians, 
they were obliged to postpone their January fete. It was held 
in September, and as it was to be on a larger scale than ordi- 
nary I determined to be present at it. 

This festival had been prepared for above a month previously. 
The priests had gone round everywhere, and each Indian that 
promised to attend was marked on the forehead with ashes, and 
paid a small coin. Thus not only were large sums collected, 
but a full attendance was insured, as none dared to break their 
promise to a priest. Every night, for a week before the 14th, 
small gouhns had been carried about, and sundry amusements 
going on, but on that day began the serious work. Crowds 
gathered from all parts of the island. Every railway train was 
full to overflowing, and very many more would have been too 
if the railway people had only had the bright idea of running 
an extra train or two on the 14th and 15th, and thus taking 
advantage of the great influx of passengers. 

It was a sight to see when the overloaded carriages dis- 
charged their living freight, dressed in all the finery procurable 
for love, money, or credit, in the bright hues dear to Indian 



Ch. XIX.] GOUHNS. 229 

tastes, and decked with gold, silver, and precious stones in 
lavish abundance. 

Hundreds could not be accommodated by rail, and those were 
lucky who could get carriole or carriage, for which they woul 1 
pay any price, to get to Terre Eouge. 

The priests have collected enough money to purchase about 
four acres of ground just off the main road leading to the 
arsenal. There they have erected several chapels and other 
buildings, suitable for their particular worship — if such a mass 
of superstition and idolatry can be called worship. 

The principal part of the first day's proceeding was the fire- 
walking, previously described, but as I did not care for a 
repetition of such a scene, I went the second day. 

It was with difficulty I could procure a conveyance to Terre 
Rouge, and no easy matter when there to make my way througli 
the dense crowds ; though I must say, however thickly congre- 
gated Indians may be, they will always make way for a white 
man, and generally with politeness. 

My attention was first attracted by a number of very large 
gouhns, fantastically painted and gilded, mounted on huge 
wooden wheels, with ropes attached to the axles, so that they 
might be moved forward by the devotees. 

On entering the grounds is a chapel, containing the image 
of some god made of iron, about three feet high, smeared with 
cocoa-nut oil and dirt, and mounted on a small altar. 

At its side sat a villainous-looking priest, holding out a small 
tin box to all comers for coin, myself included. Two little dishes 
lay before him, filled respectively with powdered saff*ron and 
wood ashes. Everyone who gave a piece of money received a 
little of each powder, with which they marked their faces, 
[B'len entendu^ I declined the favour.) 

On both sides the path leading to the chapel were booths 
filled with cakes and sweets, dear to an Indian's, but very suspi- 
cious to an Englishman's palate. 

Lemonade,cocoa-water, and cigar vendors did a good business ; 
and in another booth, containing an immense variety of orna- 
ments, the three salesmen appeared to be doing a thriving 
trade. 

I saw as many as twenty bracelets placed on a young woman's 
arms, and a dozen small rings on a child's, still at the breast. 



230 TORTURE. [Ch. XIX. 

The men seemed to be quick, sharp fellows ; they would take 
the measure of the arm or toe, cut the bracelet or ring of metal, 
fit it in a few minutes and solder it on, not to be removed till 
it sinks into the flesh as the arm enlarges. 

At the entrance of this booth sat a group of men striking at 
each other with stout sticks, about three feet long. They 
managed to do this so as to let the blows fall in time to a sort 
of monotonous chant they were droning out. 

1 passed on to the main chapel, a building about fifty feet 
long, three sides of which were open. A small iron god stood 
at the entrance on a sort of altar decorated with flowers, and 
attended by a priest, who had also his collecting-box. Ten feet 
behind the first was a large and very ugly idol, partially covered 
with a piece of cotton cloth, an old broken iron lamp at its 
side, and guarded by a priest. There was a third that appeared 
to be the god actually worshipped — a doll-like image dressed 
in the Malabar costume, with a silk jacket and langouti, 
and jewels hung wherever it was possible to hang them. A 
large crowd of half-nude men and women were near it ; dim 
oil lamps lighted it, and two hideously daubed Indians waited 
on it. 

To enter these sacred precincts I was obliged to take off my 
shoes, and by thus respecting their prejudices I was assured a 
free access everywhere, and all were anxious to show me any- 
thing I wanted to see. 

Just as I entered, a noisy flourish of tom-toms announced the 
arrival of a procession headed by a priest, and immediately 
behind him came the candidates for the honour of being 
tortured. They had on only the waistcloth, and each held at 
arm's length wires as large as a goose quill, four feet long, one 
end sharply pointed. On they came, and halted in front of the 
image in centre of the building. 

There the wires were received by the priests and blessed, and 
they were then given to an attendant. A small stiletto was 
passed to another, with directions how to use it. 

The first who approached was a well-built muscular man, and 
the stiletto was thrust through his flesh under both arms, about 
four inches below the armpits, then immediately withdrawn, 
and the wires inserted in the puncture. From one to three 
were placed under each arm, and, to drown the moans of the 



Ch. XIX.] FANATICISM. 231 

victims of an idolatry fit only for the darkest ages of the world, 
a crowd of spectators set up a howl. 

At the same time there were others with skewers thrust 
through their cheeks, tongues, and lips, and one poor wretch 
had a sharp wire as thick as a large pin inserted in the fore- 
head, and passed through the face downwards till it came out 
at the chin. 

After all had been operated on they left the chapel, accom- 
panied by the priests and men flourishing sticks round them. 
They appeared to suffer a good deal as they kept turning the 
wires in the wounds, in spite of the gangh and other intoxica- 
ting drugs given to deaden pain. Kettle-drums were then added 
to the other instruments, and with their din and the people's 
shouting and yelling, it was perfectly diabolical. 

The poor tortured creatures began dancing and singing a 
sort of triumphant song, and advanced towards the open space 
at the entrance to the grounds, the men with sticks occasionally 
making feints to strike them over the head. Two men carried 
a copper dish containing some yellow wash, which they fre- 
quently applied to the wounds. This lasted over an hour, when 
all returned to the chapel, the wires were withdrawn, and after 
the wounds were dressed they bathed in water blessed by the 
priests, and their performance ended. 

It is marvellous what fanaticism will enable its slaves to en- 
dure. These men paid two dollars for each wire thrust through 
them, besides other fees to the gods and priests. 

I learnt afterwards that all these men had made vows the 
preceding year. Two who were married, and had no children, 
vowed a sacrifice if they were blest with one before the next 
festival, and the others were vows made during the fever time.' 

' These frightful practices are endured annually to satisfy the cravings of the 
goddess Yellamah alias Throwpathy, who is represented to have tiger's teeth, 
cat's eyes, a dog's tongue, and a hideous countenance. 

It IS sensibly asked by one of themselves, ' Cannot this waste of time be pre- 
vented ? Can this abuse of human energy not be checked ? Cannot the Hindu 
mind be educated so as to run in a better channel ? Cannot this festival be turned 
from dissipation of the lowest grade into a fountain of pleasure and instruction ?' 
He says also, * The cruel practices alluded to are not worthy of man, and especially 
of the Mauritian Christian G-overnment, which seems to countenance them, although 
such monstrous festivals have been nearly put down even in the superstitious laud 
of India.' 

R 



232 RITES. [Ch. XIX. 

Occasionally there is the hook suspension, "but it costs twenty- 
five dollars, besides exacting rigid fasts and penances. 

My own domestic, though still a young man, said he had 
undergone it three times in India, and that if he had the money 
he would willingly do it again ; only, he added, ' They did not 
know how do it properly here.' 

In front of one of these images were numerous small dishes 
filled with rice, bananas, cocoa-nut and yellow-powder, all of 
which had been long before consecrated, and, most important 
of all, the inevitable money-box. 

The candidate for the favour of the god presents himself 
kneeling, and holding out his joined hands. These the priest 
fill with rice, on which he lays a banana and piece of cocoa-nut, 
and marks him on the face with the powder. A piece of money 
is then tied with a string on the wrist, not to be taken off till the 
festival is over, when both string and money must be religiously 
kept, as they form a charm against all influences, human or 
diabolical. 

The rice is held for a few minutes, and if the man's conscience 
does not accuse him of any sin since he was marked for the fete, 
it remains good ; but if any unlucky peccadillo, such as tasting- 
salt fish, or other forbidden dainty, returns to his memory, woe 
betide him : the rice withers in his hand, the mark is taken 
from his forehead, and dire will be his punishment. 

If all is well, the rice is returned, with, of course, the cus- 
tomary obolus to the god {i.e. priest). This ends the ceremony, 
and the recipient of divine favour walks away with a light heart 
under the influence of the priestly absolution, though I do not 
know for how long a time it will hold good. 

Just behind the chapel is a tank about twenty feet square, 
and the same in depth, containing four or five feet of water. 

A flight of stone steps led down to it, and wreaths of flowers 
floated on the surface, and men and women were bathing in the 
filthy liquid, greasy from the emanations of their bodies, covered 
with different oils. 

Having taken their bath, they prepared an ofi'ering to present 
to the iron god. Grroups of men and women were seated on 
the steps, engaged in mixing flour in small copper pans with 
the consecrated water, and, beating up bananas with it, formed 



Ch. XIX.] DIVING ORDEAL. 233 

a sort of cream. Each person, selecting two attendants, took 
his or her offering, and, wet and shivering, went to the door of 
the temple, and placed a shilling in the box ; then, prostrate 
before the priest, received a small green spray from the idol's 
aeck. Afterwards they all laid down, and clenching their hands, 
began rolling round the chapel in the dirt. The kettle-drums 
beat loudly, and they rolled till quite exhausted, the women 
sometimes fainting. The latter frequently sweep the ground 
with extended arms, rise and make one step, then down again, 
till the whole circuit of the chapel is completed. As many as 
fifty people were rolling at one time, all smothered in dust, as 
may well be imagined. 

After this performance a priest took his stand behind the 
chapel, near a large pile of cocoa-nuts. One by one the specta- 
tors go up to him for a nut, which he cracks ; and if the shell 
happen to break crookedly, it is rejected as a sign that the man 
or woman has sinned during the festival, and the culprit is ex- 
pelled ; if, on the contrary, it break evenly, the applicant gets 
half, and deposits threepence in the other moiety as the priest's 
perquisite. When all are served, the broken bits are flung 
amongst the crowd, when a regular scramble takes place for the 
prizes. It is a most ridiculous scene, as they lie struggling over 
each other, as eager and excited as a band of children among 
whom a handful of nuts has been thrown. Outside the temple 
were three gouhns, about fifteen feet high, mounted on wheels, 
and containing seats. In the evening a god was placed in 
each, and a priest got in, and was dragged about, principally 
by children. 

The day's proceedings terminate a sort of Lenten fast, and at 
sundown hearty dinners were being eaten in all directions. 
About ten o'clock at night the steps to the tank are lit up by 
cocoa-nut oil lamps, and a gouhn is placed in a little boat on 
the water, with the representative of Bramah in it. 

A sort of paste is prepared, and any one who likes can throw 
a bit in. If he is a good man, Bramah permits the priest who 
dives for it to find it ; but if a sinner, it is hidden for ever 
from human eyes, and the man is to be shunned. This water 
ordeal often lasts till past midnight. 

The whole of this festival, and all connected with the Hindoo 



234 THE SHASTRAS. [Ch. XIX. 

religion, is regulated by an old man called Sinnatambou.' 
All these scenes I witnessed within a mile or two of Port Louis ; 
and the thought struck me that, instead of sending away all 
the missionaries from Mauritius to Madagascar, it would be 
better if they concentrated their forces against the hydra-headed 
idolatry and superstition rife over the island.^ 

* This man is a Hindoo of weaver caste, and is said to encourage these festivals, 
not from any regard to the deity or religion (in which he is no adept), but from 
desire for filthy lucre. He pockets the annual income ; and as most of the mana- 
gers of the temple are in some way or other under obligations to him, they dare 
not compel him to render an account to the public. 

As usual amongst Indians, even this small community is not devoid of partisan- 
ship. At one time the most influential man was Mylapoor Moonisamy, who is 
now the head of the opposition party to Sinnatambou, and president of a small 
temple on the Nicolay road, dedicated to Siva. 

* Since writing this chapter, I have been informed that these degrading rites and 
cruelties are not only disallowed by the high-caste Hindus, but that they are posi- 
tively contrary to the precepts of the Shastras, in which it is stated that ' all those 
ignorant persons who regard as Grod an image of earth, metal, stone, or wood, 
subject themselves to bodily misery, and can never obtain final deliverance.' In 
the Bhagwat Gita it is also written, that ' He who worships matter becomes him- 
self matter {x,e. a blockhead).' So far from approving such squandering of large 
sums of money yearly (sufficient, as a Hindu told me, to put every Indian child to 
a national school), there is a strong feeling against it, and a wish that so much 
zeal could be utilised to better purposes. 

It is supposed that a thousand dollars were expended in fees alone this year 
(1870) for undergoing different tortures. Seventy-one victims passed through the 
fire, each of whom had to pay $2 60c. for the privilege, besides priests' fees. 



CHAPTER XX. 

ACEOSS COUNTRY TO THE BYA-MAMOU AND OTHER FALLS. 

Advice to Stay-at-homes — Invitation — Leaving the City — Into the Woods to 
Fresanges — Eavenalas — Dhoodie — Night and Morning — Rain no Effect on our 
Spirits — Contrast of Colour in Woods — Our Guide and Woodsmen — Ferns — 
Banks of the Rivifere du Poste — Grand River, S.E. — The Dya-Mamou — The 
Caves — Cascade of Roche Platte — Back into the Woods — A Path for us, Death 
to the Shrubs and Creepers — Carias — Wasps' Nests — Swallows' Cave — A Skull 
— Story of Slave Woman — The Return — Incredulity of Friends. 

Who is there living in the Island of Mauritius that is fond of 
beautiful scenery, and yet has never visited the picturesque and 
romantic falls of Dya-Mamou, in the district of Grrand River, 
SE. ? If there is such an unfortunate individual, let me 
advise him to pack up his knapsack and be off ' over the hills 
and far away ' the first holiday he can get. 

These falls (like other lovely things I could name) are not to 
be lightly attained, but require infinite patience and persever- 
ance before the prize is gained. Dense pathless forests must be 
traversed, and the tourist will find a difficulty in making his 
way without a guide. 

In the month of June an invitation was given me to join a 
party of gentlemen all eager for, and equal to, a tramp across 
country to visit some part of the Mauritian forests to which 
they and myself were strangers, and also to see the famed Dya- 
Mamou and other falls in the neighbourhood ; caverns, and 
many other curios that came in our way. 

Arrangements were made to leave Port Louis by the 1.45 
train, and go to a private station between Curepipe and Cluny, 
and permission had been granted our party to occupy a hangar 
about four miles distant from it. 

All assembled at the station as agreed on, in spite of wind 
and weather (for it had rained all day), and a still falling 



236 DEPARTURE. [Ch. XX. 

barometer. We arrived at 4 a.m. at the small station, servants, 
baggage, all right, for we had taken the precaution of having 
food enough for two days, and a change of clothes. 

We set off in high spirits, and soon met a servant of the owner 
of the forest, a guardian I presume, who led us into a narrow 
path which carried us directly into the woods. This man lived 
in a little thatched cottage, standing in an open space of about 
three acres, and close round about it were deer with their fawns 
feeding. 

They did not seem at all alarmed at our presence ; the stags 
merely tossed up their antlered heads and snuffed the breeze as 
we passed by and left the graceful animals to enjoy the sweet 
tender grass and scented herbs which were here in abundance. 

The rain poured, and we had several streams to cross before we 
came to the hangar of Fresanges. 

We only stopped here a few minutes, and then pushed on to 
Dhoodie, another hangar, where we intended to pass the night. 
Our servants had gone on with the baggage, and it took us three- 
quarters of an hour's hard walking through a most intricate 
forest before we reached the hangar. Just before entering the 
forest we crossed a plain covered with the Eavenala or Traveller's- 
trees as far as we could see. They stood in groups of eight or 
ten, many trunks springing from the same roots. I counted 
twenty-four full-grown trunks of about twenty-five feet in height, 
all appearing to shoot from the same root-stock. 

This singular tree grows to great perfection here, seeming to 
rejoice in the swampy land. It struck me as one of the most 
curious vegetable sights I had ever seen. On a little elevation 
on the south side of the plain was a row of them, as even as if 
planted by hand, nearly all of the same height ; and they stood 
like a file of giants, their dull green spiked leafage swaying 
with every breeze, and producing a peculiar creaking rustling 
sound. 

Although we were wet through by the rain, we could not 
refrain from halting to gaze on this wild bit of tropical scenery. 
Just beyond this grove was another entirely of dark jamrose, 
in full flower, filling the heavy air with soft fragrance. I con- 
tinually lagged behind, admiring everything, and was at last 
obliged to push on briskly to join my companions, whose 
patience I must have tried pretty severely on this journey. 



Ch. XX.] THE HANGAR. lyj 

A ohang-e of clothes, and a supper to which all brought good 
appetites, made us forget the discomforts of the rain, and we 
passed a pleasant hour in chatting over our recent walk and 
laying our plans for the morrow. Our sleeping-room was about 
40 feet in length, on one side of which a platform is built three 
feet high, that we covered with soft dried grass, over which we 
spread our blankets, and lay down ' to sleep, perchance to 
dream.' I've no doubt my younger comrades may have dreamt 
of ' the sweet wee wife and tiny bairns ' at home, but I 
know that a few minutes after my head lay on my pillow (made 
of a rolled-up overcoat) I slept far too soundly for dreams. 

At daylight we were up and away to the river near by for a 
bath, and then back for cigar and coffee. 

I sauntered about, inspecting the premises whilst inhaling the 
fragrant weed. There were six or seven houses at the hangar, 
all of native timber and thatched with vacoa leaves ; one is the 
salle-a-manger, capable of containing tables for a large party of 
hunters ; our sleeping-room, where at least forty persons could 
be accommodated ; a kitchen and spare rooms for servants. These 
buildings are situated on a little bend of the Eiviere du Bois, 
and are surrounded by trees, which grow to the water's edge. 

Still the rain fell, and it looked gloomy and threatening, and 
a consultation was held as to what course to pursue. We had 
come to see the Falls, and nothing short of an earthquake or 
deluge should stop us, was the first resolution passed, nem. con. 
Our servants looked downcast and shrugged their shoulders, and 
talked of impossibilities ; so we soon settled that question by 
deciding on sending them back to the hangar at Fresanges with 
our baggage, and gave them instructions to wait our return there. 

By seven o'clock we started with our guide, fording the Ei- 
viere du Bois, just at the back of the hangar, and passed along a 
narrow footpath, overgrown with wild raspberiies and ferns, into 
the depth of the forest. All along we saw tracks of the wild 
boar and deer, which abound in this vicinity, that lead into parts 
of the woods most difficult of access to the hunter. We dis- 
turbed numbers of the Myna-birds, and their shrill chattering 
whistle as they flew over our heads enlivened the silent forest. 
A few of the Coq de Bois were seen, and appeared very tame. 

The continued rain had no effect on our spirits, and one of 
our party cheered us the whole route with bursts of song, now 



238 NATURAL BEAUTY, [Ch. XX. 

a ballad, now a snatch from an opera; and the more the diffi- 
culties of our path, the more the woods resounded with his 
voice. I, as usual, was always in the rear, clutching a moss 
here or lichen there, and, again, a root of a fern: the former 
were easily detached from trees and stones on account of the 
wet. We frequently encountered trunks of large trees prostrate 
in our path, covered with green mosses, and the eye would be 
instantly attracted by little groups of the Eridia auricula 
Judce, or Judas' ears, which when wet are of the brightest 
scarlet. The contrast of colour is charming in these woods ; the 
varied greens of the ferns, the yellow Sphagnums, the neutral 
tints of the lichens, the brown or moss-covered trunks, are inex- 
pressibly beautiful to me. I often think what a great affliction 
it must be to those who have what is called ' colour blindness, ' 
though to them who have never had the pleasure of a keen per- 
ception of colours it may not be so great a deprivation as to 
those who have. 

Seeing me always in the rear, 'our friend lingers' I heard 
one say to the other, but I was neither tired nor deficient in a 
tramp. No ! but every sense was absorbed in the surroundings. 
I was feasting on the scene and feeling, as I ever do when out 
in the wild, that this is truly a joy-giving world in which we 
live. Miserable mortals that we are, grubbing everlastingly 
after the ' almighty dollar,' and neglecting almost everything 
great and good, passing on and off this busy stage without en- 
joying, scarcely conscious of the beauty created expressly ' to 
give delight to man,' and to elevate and prepare him for a still 
brighter sphere. 

My companions were all men of education and refinement, 
and appreciated everything as much as I did ; but they were far 
wiser, for being wet and uncomfortable, they were hurrying 
along to our first halting-place, which we reached after passing 
through another grove of Eavenalas. The guardian of the 
place seemed to have expected us, for he came out to meet us. 
and offered his services. 

This place much resembles the last, with the exception of 
the vacoa-thatched huts being smaller. The frame of a large 
hangar lay on the ground, and would soon be ready to replace 
the old one. A good many Malabars lived here, and there was 
a large pond, or basin, as they call it, filled with Grourami, so 



Ch. XX.] NATURAL BEAUTY. 239 

that fine fresh fish can be had at short notice. The trees and 
underbrush had been cleared away, and a very pretty view was 
had westward. Our refreshment got through, we agreed to 
proceed directly to the Falls, now about four miles distant. 

They reckon distance by time, so they said it was about an 
hour's walk hence. The guardian, who was a very polite French 
Creole, set off with us, taking along with him several of his men. 
One strong stout Malabar preceded us with a sharp cleaver, to 
cut away the impediments from our path. 

No sooner were we back in the forest than I was soon behind 
again. That fine fern the Langue de boeuf {Aspidium nidus) 
was growing on the top of an old giant, the largest tree I have 
seen here, with the exception of the Boabab. The tree was 
dead, and had been broken off about fifteen feet from the collum ; 
it was covered completely with creepers, ferns and mosses, and 
crowned with this elegant fern. The fronds were many of 
them ten inches wide and five feet long, so green and luxuriant, 
and so incorporated in the old trunk, as to appear to be the 
leaves of the tree itself. A little farther on we came to a pro- 
fusion of the Gallipteris prolifera, one of the finest of its family. 
This species rapidly propagates by throwing off shoots at the 
joints of the pinnae on the midrib, and when the small leaves 
appear on the shoots, they drop off and grow. 

We soon reached the Eiviere du Poste, which was somewhat 
swollen, but we forded it without much difficulty. As we 
crossed over to the right bank, we all exclaimed on beholding 
the beauty it presented. The bank shelved, and tier on tier of 
the lovely Ochropteris pallens rose one above the other, and 
over them the jamroses spread their branches till they nearly 
touched the water. 

Intertwined in all directions was a species of purple convolvulus 
in full flower. It was a perfect picture : the dark leaves of the 
climber, and purple blossoms, the very pale greens of the ferns, 
the primrose tint of the jamrosa-flowers in their dark setting — 
the pen fails to depict it : 'we should need colours and words 
that are unknown to man. ' Our guide was constantly calling 
attention to different plants medicinally used by the Creoles. 
He showed me one that he said would produce death in a short 
space of time after the juice had been taken into the system. 
r did not know its name, but found it a species of Euphorbia. 



240 GRAND RIVER. [Ch. XX. 

He said if a branch was bruised, and thrown into a pond, it 
would destroy the fish. He especially pointed out one that 
would cure a person that was addicted to the use of ardent 
spirits (pity it is not generally known), with many other won- 
derful things, to all of which we listened with becoming at- 
tention. 

We soon began to hear the noise of falling water, and our 
guide told us to be careful, as we were on the banks of the 
Grrand Eiver, SE., just below the falls, and that the ravine was 
very steep. The woods hereabouts were more dense than ever, 
and it was with difficulty we could make our way. Our sapper 
and miner, who preceded us, slashed away right and left ; and, 
advancing in single file, in about half an hour we reached 
the bottom, without any casualty except a few bruises and 
tumbles. 

Then what a view opened out to us ! The Dya-Mamou Falls, 
in all their magnificence, were before us. What a lovely ro- 
mantic spot ! I was fascinated, spell-bound ! We crossed the 
river by jumping from rock to rock, till we reached an elevated 
position among "huge boulders and rocks that lay in the wildest 
confusion, some in heaps just as they were tumbled headlong 
from the heights above. Our post was somewhat perilous, for 
the rocks were slippery, and facing us was a steep basaltic clifi" 
looking down into a deep basin much disturbed from the vo- 
lume of water passing through it, and a few yards off was the 
roaring cataract. On account of the previous day's rains (or 
perhaps in honour of our visit) there was a much larger body 
of water than usual : it foamed and hissed over the perpendi- 
cular basaltic wall of rock, and then thundered into the abyss 
below with terrific sublimity. These falls are about one hun- 
dred feet high, and I should say the sheet of water was fully 
fifty feet wide. The sides of the ravine just below the falls are 
bold, covered with immense detached masses of rocks, very diffi- 
cult to clamber over. There is a pretty little cascade a few 
yards off in the river, but its beauty is lost in the magnificence 
of the Dya-Mamou Falls, which in my opinion are the finest in 
the island. 

The sounding cataract 
Haunted me like a passion : the tall rock, 
The mountain, and the deep and gloomy wood, 
Their colours and their forms, were then to me 



Ch. XX.] . A HERMIT SLA VE. 241 

An appetite ; a feeling and a love 
That had no need of a remoter charm, 
By thought supplied, nor any interest 
Unborrowed from the eye. 

We feasted our eyes on the scene for some time ; and our next 
move was to the caves on the left bank of the river, near the 
front of the falls. We had to make our way over the boulders 
at the edge of the river, and a false step would have plunged us 
into an involuntary bath ; not that it could have made much 
difference in the condition of any of the party, for we had been 
' dem'd moist unpleasant bodies ' the whole day. 

We reached this curious place, and there our guide told us 
the old story of a slave having made it his home for (some 
say) ten years. His retreat had been sought in vain, till smoke 
was discovered issuing from the cave, which led to his cap- 
ture. 

This cave is about twelve feet wide and twenty high, and 
appears to have been formed by a huge detached rock sliding 
out from the original formation to a distance of about twenty 
feet, and another much larger lossened above, which slid over 
the opening, forming a complete roof to the cave. Numerous 
ferns and creepers grew in the interstices of the rocks ; and I 
made up my mind, if opportunity occurred, to pass a few days 
in this neighbourhood, making this cave the base of my 
operations. 

Of course we heard the usual account of the monster eels in the 
basin, and which I believe is told of every river and pond in 
the island. I am aware there are large eels, having been at 
the death of one weighing forty-five pounds ; but this is rare, and 
then they never attack man. After inspecting the cave, we 
ascended the ravine by a path hewn out of the bushes for us, 
and in a few minutes were again on the brink of the falls. It 
was a grand scene : the foaming, roaring waters below encircling 
a pretty little island studded with trees and shrubs ; the deep 
black water in the back ground ; rocks piled fantastically one 
on the other ; large clumps of luxuriant ferns growing from the 
interstices ; the sides of the ravine covered with trees, and a 
lofty mountain rearing its stately head in the distance. The 
long tortuous course of the river could be distinctly traced. 
Near the falls it is about two hundred yards wide, and very 



242 ROCHE PLATTE, [Ch. XX. 

shallow ; the bed filled with rocks and stones, over which the 
water rushed, forming rapids like miniature Niagaras. 

Just above the falls, on a little flat formed of vegetable 
debris, I found the Erica growing, but not in flower ; and groups 
of the finest bamboos I ever saw were there. 

After enjoying the scene to the utmost, we visited another 
pretty lifetle cascade called Eoche Platte, about twenty feet in 
height, with an unbroken sheet of water passing over a perfectly 
flat table-rock into a basin below. We did not remain long 
here, but passed into the forest, which grew to the river's bank, 
our sapper still preceding us and spreading death and destruc- 
tion around. With his sharp cleaver, which was about four feet 
long, he laid low hundreds of pretty shrubs and young trees ; 
and many a delicate creeper was cut down and lay withering 
in his path that had so lately revelled in luxuriant grace. 

I noticed many dead and dried trunks of large trees, with 
huge nests of the Caria, or white ant, surrounding them. These 
nests look like a great mass of cinders, and when broken are 
found honeycombed all through. 

This species of white ant is very destructive in a forest, 
especially to vacoas, but I believe they generally attack trees 
in a sickly condition. The first signs of decay are the appear- 
ance of a fungus, which is caused by gases emanating from 
decomposed vegetable matter in the tree. Then the Caria is 
sure to follow, and the doom of the tree is sealed. They say 
portions of these nests are gathered by the Creoles, and prepared 
in some way as a decoction good for sore throats. 

The servant to whom I had entrusted my fern treasures 
suddenly threw them all down, and disappeared in the thicket. 
I began to gather them up myself, somewhat vexed, when 
presently he emerged bearing a large wasps' nest full of young. 
He had not deserted me, but having espied the nest he had 
gone after it ; and though the wasps had stung him, he carried 
off his prize. I was curious to know its use, for he took such 
particular care of it on the way back. The guide told me the 
'Creoles esteemed them greatly, and broiled them over a quick 
fire, and then with a sharp-pointed stick picked out the young 
wasps and ate them ! ' Delicious ! sir, delicious !' he said ; ' I shall 
try to get the next for myself, as I am very fond of them.' 
Well, white-ant tea and young broiled wasps may be good for 



Ch. XX.] SWALLOWS' CAVE. 243 

those who like them — chacun a son gout — but I would rather 
be excused. 

Three-quarters of an hour's hard tramp over streams of 
water and boggy ground brought us to within a hundred feet 
of another waterfall, the ' Cascade des Hirondelles.' It is very 
picturesque, but has not so large a body of water as the Dya- 
Mamou. 

On the left bank of the river is a considerable-sized cave 
called the ' Swallows' Cave,' from those birds being supposed to 
build there in vast numbers ; but I could not find one nest. It 
is about fifty feet deep and eighteen or twenty feet high. It 
has been formed by the freshets of the river having washed out 
the layers of tufa between the beds of lava. The names of 
numerous visitors were cut in the rocks. After seeing all that 
there was to be seen, we clambered up to take another look at 
the cascade. In the little pools I got, for the first time in 
Mauritius, that singular water-plant the Hydrodicyton utricu- 
latum, whose delicate structure resembles a net, every mesh 
being precisely alike ; also some specimens of Chara and two or 
three of the Potamogeton utHculatum, or nutans. 

After feasting our eyes on the scene a short time, we com- 
menced the ascent of the ravine, which is steep there, and we 
heard the cries and chattering of monkeys. They frequently 
congregate in hundreds, and if disturbed will sometimes attack 
the intruder. "VVe found the ground often covered with badanier 
nuts they had thrown down. Our guide told us this forest was 
formerly infested by maroon slaves, who committed great 
depredations on the surrounding plantations, driving off cattle, 
robbing the poultry-yards, and even white women had been 
taken into captivity by them. He pointed out a lonely spot 
where his grandfather was once hunting, when he saw a desperate 
maroon up in a tree, and as he passed near the slave threw down 
a little wooden image on to the rock at his feet. No notice 
being taken of this the man concluded that, though armed, the 
intruder was not after him, so came down. Many a tale of 
misery and woe could, doubtless, be told of this forest, where 
the caves and numerous hiding-places gave shelter to the run- 
away slaves, who, according to most writers, were horribly treated 
by some of the planters. 

I managed to get some fine specimens of the following ferns 



244 ^ SKULL. [Ch. XX. 

on our way back to the hangar : the Odontosoria tenuifolia, 
Gleichenia dichotoma, Humata pcedata, Lonchitis pubescens^ 
Aspleniums, Trichomanes, and a host of others. 

The soil about this region is of a reddish colour, and every- 
thing grows luxuriantly, from the constant showers. I noticed 
a curious geological formation cropping out in some parts of 
the forest, which was of bright red, a little harder than pipe- 
clay, and, contrasting with the bright-leaved shrubs, had a 
singular appearance. As I was searching after ferns I came 
upon part of a human skull. It was much decomposed, and 
had probably been for years exposed to the elements. 

From the interstices grew a little white liane — life in death ; 
and, after examining it, I laid it carefully back. I looked about, 
but could not find the other parts. It was a negro's skull, as 
their formation is unmistakable. ' Poor fellow,' I thought ; 
' you might have been a slave driven by your cruel master to 
this stronghold, there to die of starvation, and perhaps on this 
very spot welcomed death as an end to your miseries.' I turned 
away saddened, yet thankful that the foulest blot on humanity, 
the slave trade, is fast disappearing,^ and will very soon be 
amongst the things that were. 

The return path to the hangar was more open than the one 
we traversed in the morning ; and we could see the Terre Eouge 
Mountains looming up before us covered with vegetation, with 
the exception of the western spur, which appeared quite barren, 
and from our position its shape resembled a Texan ranger's saddle. 

I must not forget a story told by our guide of this same spur. 
He said that, many years ago, a slave woman had fled from her 
master to the woods for refuge near this locality. Being disco- 
vered and pursued, she fled to one of the barren cliffs on the 
side of the mountain, flung herself over the precipice, and was 
dashed to pieces. 

My sympathies were not so vividly roused as might have 
been expected, knowing the wonderful propensity of this class 
for repeating marvellous tales ; and I put it down amongst the 
monster eel and other stories of a similar kind. 

For a few minutes the sun broke through the thick clouds, 
but evidently did not think it worth while to contend against 
the rain and gloom, so quickly disappeared. 

' Of course it no longer exists in the Mauritius or in any British possession. 



Ch. XX.] A JOLLY TRAMP, 245 

I regretted having only so short a time to pass in this loca- 
lity, so varied and abundant was vegetable life, and changing 
its character constantly. 

Here and there, on the edges of the openings, was a clump of 
towering tree-ferns. No matter how often one sees them, 
every fresh group attracts the attention, and calls forth excla- 
mations of delight ; and these, possibly from being sheltered 
from the winds, had more perfect fronds than ordinary. 

After crossing an open space covered with high grass, we 
re-entered the forest by a narrow path cut by the chasseurs to 
enable them to penetrate to the interior of these wilds. Eave- 
nalas were everywhere abundant, but their grand crests of leaves 
were often slit into ribbons. The flowers are very insignificant, 
whitish, and spring from horizontal sheaths, and have a dry 
banana-shaped fruit. The foot-stalks of the leaves, when cut 
near the base, yield a plentiful supply of liquid, not only to 
refresh the traveller in a dry and thirsty land, but to preserve 
the tree itself in hot dry weather. 

We soon reached the Eiviere du Bois hangar, and there 
quitted our Creole friend, after thanking him heartily for the 
assistance he had rendered us. We pushed on rapidly, the rain 
giving us little respite, and found the streams considerably 
swollen by all the rain since morning. 

However, our tramp was a jolly one, made so by the excellent 
conversational powers of my comrades. Sparkling chat, a song, 
a hearty laugh over a stumble — so time and the road slipped 
away. We took some refreshment at the Dhoodie hangar, and 
ofif again to Fresanges, where our servants awaited us. W^e made 
such good use of our time that we got up to Mr. Currie's station 
before the arrival of the train, and were glad enough to exchange 
our soaked, mud-bespattered garments for a dry suit. 

I dropped my companions one by one at their different 
stations, but not before we had sworn a compact to renew our 
tramp on the first opportunity. I arrived in town in time to 
keep an engagement to dinner, where my friends, when I told 
them of my two days' excursion, put it half down to Yankee 
invention. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

ON THE SEA, IN AND NEAR POET LOUIS HABBOUB, WITH 
DESCBIPTIONS OF SOME OF THE WONDERS THEREIN. 

Start from Home — Embarking at the Trou Fanfaron — Docks, &c. —Landing 
Bullocks — Scarcity of Shipping — Timber-ship unloading — Abundance of Fish — 
Clearness of Water — Finding Caulerpa and Halisphila — Description of Hydro- 
metridse — Errantia — Coasts of Mauritius — Eeefs and Fringing Corals — Their 
Polyps— Boat touching the Reefs — Sharks and other Monsters — Echinas — Fish- 
ing up Corals — Their Inhabitants — Fungi Agariciformis — Preparing Corals for 
sale — The Beauty of the Depths — Origin of Barkly Island — Its Shells and 
Algse — Aquariums — Crabs under the Rocks — Surface Corals of Species I have 
not hitherto found — Champagne Bottles ; the various Fumes equally mischievous 
to Man and Reptiles — Actimas — Pugnacious Eels — Breakfast — Tea versus Beer 
or Brandy — Dragging the Tide-pools — Flying LafFs — Gymnobranchiata — Soldier 
and Hermit Crabs — Leaving the Island — Examining the Contents of Fishermen's 
Bags — Ourites — Lobsters — Butterflies out at Sea — Holothuroidea — Overboard 
to dig up Pinnae — Dolabella Rumphi Shells — Tropic Birds — The Mud LaiFs — 
Terrible Wounds inflicted by them— Sunset Visions — Return to the Trou 
Fanfaron. 

A DULL cloudy morning and a sprinkle of cold rain. These 
being often signs foretelling a fine day, or, as the Creoles say, 
only a ' petite pluie de bon matin, n'a rien ^a,' I was in no way 
discouraged by the prospect. I had made up my mind to a 
day's thorough enjoyment, and with a friend of like persuasion 
I set off soon after daylight for an excursion on the sea. Two 
men, well used to aid me in such expeditions, bore our nets, 
rakes, bottles, fishing-tackle, long boots, and such-like gear, 
and a well-filled basket of provisions. Numbers of plying boats 
are always on hand from daylight to dark, manned principally 
by Arabs and Lascars, who all rushed forward at our appearance, 
pressing their claims to attention in a villainous lingo, half 
Creole, half English. 

Many of the old men own several boats, and make a great 
deal of money plying to and from the shipping. So profitable 
is it, that after a few years' work some go back to their native 



Ch. XXL] EMBARKING. 247 

countries (principally the ports on the Eed Sea) with a com- 
fortable independence. They engage young fellows about 
eighteen or twenty years old, and pay them a mere trifle a 
month, they themselves always collecting the fares ; and many 
of these lads make good steady boatmen, though some — I may 
say most of them — are the sauciest rascals going. 

We embarked in the large basin called the Trou Fanfaron, 
formerly only the outlet of a petty stream, but, enlarged and 
embanked, it then served for vessels to lie in for repairs not 
requiring a dry-dock. Within the last fifteen years great 
changes have taken place here. There have been built, at vast 
expense and labour, three dry-docks and two patent slips, and 
there are several spacious marine yards and boating companies 
besides. In the former vessels of large size can be repaired, and 
one of them can take in two ships at the same time. Unfortu- 
nately the whole have been little remunerative, on account of 
the fever. Its frightful ravages have spread such terror among 
sea-captains, that they are even yet reluctant to bring their ships 
here and expose their crews to its influence. 

During the hurricane-season (supposed to last from November 
to April) the bullockers. that trade to Madagascar for the beef 
supply of Mauritius are laid up in the Fanfaron, as the risk to 
vessels and their living freight would be too great at that 
period. At the m.oment of our embarkation a huge ship, 
lately arrived, was discharging her cargo of bullocks, and our 
men rest on their oars for us to witness the operation. 

A broad belt is fastened round the body behind the monstrous 
hump (so noticeable a feature in Madagascar cattle), and then 
the animal is hoisted out of the hold by machinery, and quietly 
dropped over the side into the sea. The poor wretches look 
pitiable enough as they dangle helplessly in mid-air, all their 
limbs in a state of collapse, and they must feel wonderfully 
astonished as they find themselves plunging below the waves. 
Nevertheless, I should think the douche and subsequent swim 
to shore must be very refreshing to their weary limbs so long 
cramped in the vessel's hold, as well as a great purifier from the 
foul odours of their temporary stables. Across the Fanfaron 
extends the long railway-bridge on strong stone abutments, 
which excited the Creoles' fears to such a pitch when first 
opened, that two-thirds of them declared they never could or 

S 



248 THE HARBOUR, [Ch. XXI. 

would cross it, and that that alone would be sufficient to insure 
a failure on the north line. However, on completion, they 
soon learnt to subdue their feelings and even to cross the Grand 
Eiver-bridge coolly, where an accident would precipitate the 
train hundreds of feet below, into the wide and deep river. 

We slowly round the point to our left, where vast beds of 
coral crop out above the surface, and on which the Custom- 
house and other buildings connected with the marine stand. 
To the right runs out a long stone jetty, on which is in course 
of erection a church for the sailors.^ The old man-of-war 
(when no longer fit to thunder forth defiance and death) that 
had been converted into a ' Bethel,' whence was given out the 
message of love, ' Peace on earth and good-will to men,' had 
come to utter gTief during the last cyclone ; so subscriptions 
were set on foot, and resulted in funds enough for this church. 

We keep outside the shipping, which is ranged in tiers in the 
inner harbour. Formerly it was not without great care we 
could steer clear of the ropes of the thronging craft of all 
nations ; but now, alas, they lie, like ' angels' visits, few and 
very far between.' The few there are show busy life, cleaning, 
painting, loading or unloading cargo, principally done by 
Malabars, all screaming at the top of their voices or chanting 
the monotonous notes in a high key, without which they 
couldn't move even a bag of sugar or rice. 

Lines of mud-boats passed us, towed by a small steam-tug, 
taking their freight of filth from the harbour to be deposited 
far out beyond the Bell Buoy. We hug the shore towards Fort 
George on the right, and pass the coaling-station for steamers, 
which is close to the berth appointed for these vessels. Men 
and things in general wear a coally aspect ; and I could not help 
smiling to see, in front of one of the overseers' huts, a clump of 
sugar-canes growing green and bright in the midst of the black 
dust. Close by is at this time an active scene. A large 
American ship has arrived from the East, laden with a freight 
of valuable timber, principally the far-famed teak wood from 
Moulmein. The spirits of the storm have been busy with her, 
and made wild work of her spars and rigging, and battering her 
hulk till she is obliged to unload her cargo. The giant logs, 

* Since completed. 



Ch. XXL] A LANDSCAPE. 249 

once the mighty monarchs of some Indian forest, are being- 
rafted from her, and lie in hundreds, floating about and waiting 
to be piled on shore by the coolies. 

Another sprinkle of rain, and out comes the sun, dispersing 
the mists on land and sea. The clouds roll away, leaving only 
a nightcap on the head of the Pouce, which, with the adjacent 
hills, half sunshine half shade, looms grandly in the background 
of the city. Clearly defined are the Peter Both with its royal 
head, and the Little Peter Both, which is a miniature likeness 
of its namesake. Sharply outlined against the sky stand the 
fire-worn cliffs of the Signal Mountain, and faintly visible in 
the distance are Mount Ory and the Corps de Grarde, not 
yet cleared of mist. The sea is still as an inland lake, scarcely 
a ripple on its surface ; even the outer reefs are only marked by 
a slight crest of foam till they approach the Point aux Caves, 
where the waves are always breaking angrily. 

Numbers of pirogues and fishing-boats are coming in rapidly 
for the early morning market, laden with the finny spoils of 
the preceding night. The whole harbour swarms with fish, and 
the strokes of our oars constantly startle shoals of mullets that 
spring out of the water, their silver sides glistening in the sun. 

We now begin to see the corals on the bottom distinctly, but 
our present quest takes us near Fort George, away from these 
crystal waters, to a spot where I know a bank, not of odour- 
breathing thyme, but composed of the densest mud mixed with 
coal-dust this dirty harbour can produce. And now our work 
commences. Out come the buckets and dishes for washing ; 
and my friend waits, spectacles on nose, with magnifying-glasses, 
sea-weed hook, &c., all in readiness to clutch whatever my rake 
brings up. 

I know of old that in this mud lies a bed of the precious 
Haliotphila Madagascariensis (Steidel). Up comes a mass- 
not of the coveted treasure — but of fine Caulerpa denticulata. 
It is quickly freed from its muddy coat, and the thick broad 
fronds show as bright a green as if grown in the clearest spring. 
Next, I bring up a quantity of H. ovalis (R. Brown), much of 
it in bud ; but many times I have to try over a large space 
before the object of our search is gained. In vain for months 
have I hunted for this rare plant (which revels in the ooze), to 
find it in flower ; but to-day we are rewarded, and after getting 
some bucketsful of it, on close examination after cleaning, we 



250 INSECTS. [Ch. XXI. 

found a few specimens in bud. Very carefully the best are 
laid in our book, and others placed in a bottle of sea-water for 
home inspection. A good omen this for our day's success. 

As the sun by this time has warmed the water somewhat, we 
see numbers of what appear like little white dots on long legs, 
bobbing about and skimming over the surface of the water at 
the swiftest pace. These curious insects (for such they prove to 
be) are not easily caught, as on the approach of the net they 
disappear under the waves by magic ; and when I had been 
lucky enough to secure some, they were so agile, and sprang 
up the net with such marvellous celerity, that I rarely captured 
more than two or three out of every dozen in the net. They 
belong, I believe, to the family of the Hydrometridse, but of 
two species unknown to me. One is grey, striated on the 
abdomen with black lines, and a black patch on the back. 
The thighs are covered with shaggy down, and the two pairs of 
hind legs are very long, the front pair near the head very short. 
The antennae are jointed like a spider's, and the palpi are 
visible above the head. Both are diamond-shaped, have promi- 
nent eyes, and are whitish on the under side. From this 
white showing so constantly, they would seem to possess the 
faculty of swimming on the back like the Notonectidse, or water- 
boatmen. 

The second species is yellowish brown, with two transverse 
black lines on each side of the back, and from them descend to 
the abdominal extremity a double row of lunular spots, also 
black, traversed by white lines. Two black dots lie behind 
the eyes, and below them, extending down each shoulder, is an 
elongated patch of the ^ame. The legs are nearly black, with 
yellowish white base, and the palpi are so small that they are not 
visible without the aid of a powerful glass. I first saw this 
insect at fifteen or twenty miles from the shore to leeward of 
the island. At the beginning of summer they appear to come 
inside the reefs to breed, and in February and March may 
be seen in hundreds near the shore. 

One of the men hauls up a floating mass, which proves to be 
a large Medusa ; but being injured, we are'about to return it to 
its native element, when some soldiers on the beach beg it, and 
carry it off as a great prize. One of them, however, laid hold 
of it with his hands, but let it drop like a hot coal, and doubt- 



Ch. XXL] ERRANTIA. 251 

less it felt like one to him, as nearly all irritate the skin greatly 
when touched. We got a small one, that I brought home to 
sketch, of a pale buff, grey and white. It somewhat resembles 
the Gassiopea Andromeda (Tilesius), but the disc is perfectly 
spherical, the divisions grey with milk-white centres, and in 
the middle a circle with scolloped edges white within, a few 
pale buff markings showing on it. The edges of the disc are 
straight, with a cord-like border. The arms are eight in num- 
ber, leaf- shaped, pale buff with darker edges, and rows of white 
suckers up them. It is very graceful in its undulating move- 
ments, and it remained alive for two days. The second day I 
could touch it harmlessly, and on the third dissolution began. 
The leaf-like appendages melted away gradually, but it was five 
days before the disc perceptibly diminished. We landed close 
to the fort, to give chase to some of the numerous scarlet-clawed 
crabs there ; but they are so wary it is no easy matter to capture 
them as they rush to their holes. While the men were busy 
with them, I examined part of the moat, and fished up some 
pieces of coral covered with curious green-striated zoophytes. 
Here and there amongst them were a few fronds of the beautiful 
plant the Acetahularia crenulata (Lam.). I believe this is 
the first time this plant has been found in Mauritius. The 
fronds were barely an inch in height, and the exquisite daisy- 
like cups about half an inch in diameter. 

We now turn our boat's head, and steer to the left for Barkly 
Island. Before we enter the deep mid-channel of the harbour, 
we hook up one of the Errantia ^ that lie thickly strewn over 
the coral bottom. Many are over five feet long, and look round 
and plump in the water, but when brought in on a stick hang 
limp and most repulsive-looking. They are fond of basking in 
the sun in shallow water, but hide themselves in the crevices 
of the coral rocks when disturbed. If they find escape impos- 
sible, they will contract into a heap, but float out again directly 
they are placed in water. Their Creole name is ' S'embrasse,' 
and truly they hug everything they touch. They are covered 
with hooked spines (acciculi), which are so small that to the 
naked eye they resemble only dots or tubercles all over the 
skin. The animal can evidently retract or protrude them at 
will, as at times different parts of the body are quite smooth, 

' Or some genus near it. 



252 CORAL-REEFS. [Ch, XXI. 

but never all at once. This species is of a sandy and greenish 
gray colour, with dark lines, and a fine head of fleshy, olive- 
coloured tentacles, beautifully feathered at each edge, twelve 
in number, that cover a large pink mouth furnished with horny 
jaws. The body is in tubular segments, that appear capable of 
elongation at pleasure. I had one in a large bowl with some 
Holothurise, and on the first day they lay a hopelessly entangled 
mass, only their heads visible. On the second day the hooks 
seemed to begin to lose their power, and by the end of the third 
day they were scarcely perceptible. After death I could handle 
it, though when alive it caused violent irritation of the skin. 

While we are crossing the deep water, and enjoying the 
tranquil beauty of the morning, I will say a few words on the 
coast of Mauritius and the coral-reefs. 

Small' as is the actual extent of the coast line of this island, 
it must ever be one of superlative interest to the naturalist, 
from the wonderful, ever-changing-never-ending field of re- 
search these vast encircling coral-reefs afford. The shores of 
Mauritius are, as a rule, the most disappointing and uninterest- 
ing I ever hunted over ; the only exceptions being after heavy 
weather, when they are strewn with sea-weed. For weeks 
together I have explored them in my early morning rambles, 
and not found shell nor plant worth taking. 

Yet it appears that all the world imagines both are to be 
had in abundance for the trouble of picking up, from the con- 
stant applications I have from friends in Europe and America 
— a woeful mistake, for it is a great rarity to find a good or per- 
fect shell on the shore. The debris of the deposits of ages of 
shells and corals lie piled up on most parts of the coast, only 
making it the more provoking, as they show the incalculable 
wealth of conchological treasures in these seas, and the hope- 
lessness of procuring them. Olives of the greatest beauty 
swarm on the reefs, yet in three years I have not found a 
dozen on the shore. 

To acquire the treasures of the deep here, you must don a 
suitable dress, old and thick, not forgetting long and stron'g 
boots, and wade along at low water over the inner reefs ; and 
there, if a true lover of nature, in a very short time you will 
forget the shore's sterility in the varied and wondrous forms of 
animal life you will meet at every step. 



Ch. XXL] CORAL-FORMATIONS. 253 

What marvels might be revealed to one with abundant leisure 
for the task, and the requisite amount of scientific knowledge, 
to examine the reefs carefully, noting down eveiy discovery — a 
work of profit and pleasure to him who shall undertake it, and 
one that will open many a new page in marine zoology. It 
requires, however, infinite skill and patience, for the sea does not 
render up its secrets without considerable of both. 

These waters appear to possess most favourable circumstances 
for the growth of the coral polyps. Being in the sub-torrid zone, 
they have the mean temperature (about 68°) which is supposed 
to be best suited to coral life. The whole island is surrounded 
by reefs, with breaks at the mouths of the rivers, with the excep- 
tion of a small porton of the southern coast, which is precipitous, 
and where fresh-water streams are constantly pouring down 
volumes of mud into the ocean, both of which are antagonistic to 
the development of these polyps, especially the latter, as they 
require clear water to work in. The innumerable rivers of lava 
that in former times flowed far into the sea from the terribly 
active volcanoes in Mauritius, and the submerged cones of the 
great tract of land once in this vicinity, afforded foundations on 
which these vast sea-walls have been constructed. 

The reefs extend from one to five miles from shore, and at 
low water it is shoal enough for the fishermen to ply their craft 
in all but boisterous weather. 

A great part of the inner reefs lie a few feet from the surface, 
and some are partially exposed at very low tides. This does not 
appear to have an injurious effect on the polyps ; indeed, I find 
it is an ascertained fact that some species of coral will endure 
temporary exposure to the sun.^ 

When we reflect on the wondrous power these minute 
animalculge have of separating the calcareous matter from the 
ocean to build their cells, it is truly ' marvellous in our eyes.' 
Numerous as the coral polyps are, yet each one has not only its 
own peculiar form and manner of constructing its habitation, 
but its well-defined position in the reefs, as to the depth it 
requires to fulfil the position of its growth. From 40 to 60 feet 
is given as the general depth for reef-builders, though some 
writers go as far as 100. 

* See Dana on coral formations. 



254 



CORAL-LIFE, 



[Ch, XXI. 



Below this again are others that do not contribute to the 
height of the reef, but ' grow under its shelter and do not begin 
to work till it has a certain height, and then they fill the bot- 
tom towards the shore.' ^ The principal of the latter are the 
Dendrophyllse (the ' shrubbery ' of these sea-forests, as Professor 
Agassiz calls them). This writer, who has made corals an 





especial study during a long life, gives a most interesting 
description of the coral polyp, from which I quote some of the 
main facts. 

He says : ' Corals are a part of the body of the animal, ^ as bones 





POLYP EGGS. 



DIFFERENT DEVELOPMENTS OP THE POLYPS. 



are of our frame ; they are the solid portion of it when alive. 
They are built upon a plan of radiation, and consist of a 

' See Agassiz on coral life, 

- So constantly but erroneously called ' an insect.' 



Ch. XXL] ASTREAS. 255 

number of equal parts, diverging from a vertical axis, and 
arranged in a perfectly symmetrical way. They have a 
central mouth, and. a number of feelers surrounding the upper 
part of the body, which receive the food. This mouth opens 
into a sac, which is the digestive cavity, having a hole through 
which the digested food is carried into the main cavity of the 
body. This latter is divided by radiating partitions into a 
number of chambers communicating with one another at the 
centre, but not united there. 

' Such an animal when soft is a sea-anemone, but let the walls 
be loaded with limestone and become stiff, then we have a 
coral.' 

The Professor states another still more curious fact, and one 
still less generally known than the above, and which solves one 
of the most perplexing questions in the study of these animals 
— viz. Whence come the new corals that build up the various 
portions of the reef ? He says : ' On examining these animals, 
we find along the partitions which divide the internal cavity 
bunches of eggs, and the young which are hatched from these 
eggs are free, and swim in the water. They are little pear-shaped 
bodies surrounded with innumerable fringes which keep them 
revolving in the water. They move about until they find a 
proper resting-place, where they fix themselves and grow.' 

Whenever there is a reef which has grown up to the level, 
say of six fathoms, where the second set of corals come in, 
there will be found these little floating animals, which subse- 
quently attach themselves to the reef at their proper level, 
and grow. Then another set will come in, in the same way, 
find their proper resting-place, and so build up the reef. 

The outer and inner reefs present a widely different appearance. 
In the former a certain order is observed. Here are the gigantic 
Astreas, with their complicated inner structure and deep surface 
pits, the corrugated sides of which are lined with polyps so de- 
licate and flower-like. These animals are short and cylindrical, 
with rounded mouths in the centre of the disc, and an indefinite 
number of tentacles, often spreading out to an inch in diameter, 
and yet not one interfering with its neighbour. There are 
several species here. I have found dead fragments with pits 
nearly an inch wide, and greatly resembling the drawings of 
Lithostrotum Canadense (Castelnau), in the St. Louis limestone 



256 MADREPORES. [Ch. XXI. 

of the sub-carboniferous period ; and again I see others with 
pits varying from two to five lines. 

The inner reefs are strewn with gigantic heads of Astreas 
wrenched from the reef-wall by some hurricane, often from fifteen 
to twenty feet in diameter, and weighing some tons. Many of 
these great blocks are far above the present sea level in the 
Black Eiver valley — one of the numerous proofs of the rising of 
the island. 

Next come the magnificent Meandrinas, of varied form and 
size, but generally heading like the Astreas. I frequently 
bring up large detached corals of this group covered with a 
polyp of the brightest green, which retain its colour for a 
long time by keeping it in the dark. All I get alive have the 
peculiar surface meanderings much smaller than those in the 
monster dead blocks I constantly find on the shore. 

After the Meandrinas come Porites, Millepores, and other 
similar groups. This order must not be taken literally, as, 
though occasionally they may be found in pretty regular suc- 
cession, and these are the principal of the reef-builders, yet 
they more frequently grow together promiscuously at different 
depths ; some species of Astreas requiring deep water and others 
lying on the surface, and so on for all the others. 

The above-mentioned are those principally used for lime, and 
it is curious to watch a large boat unloading, and see the mon- 
ster blocks tossed on shore to be broken up. Many a precious 
weed have I found on examining them, which, but for this acci- 
dent, I might never have seen in a lifetime. Many of the 
Porites are so solid and hard, it takes heavy blows to split 
them. The lime-burners frequently go to the outer reefs, and 
bring back a load of the loveliest of all the corals,^ the Madre- 
pores, the upper group, and the Fungi, which are not reef- 
builders. 

They have a particular kind of hook for the purpose, and 
detach large branches of living corals, which they prepare for 
sale. This is not easy work, for enormous sharks swarm the 
vicinity, and it is a wonder more accidents do not occur. The 
corals are chosen that form handsome clusters or branches, 

' I use this word as everyone here does, without any reference to its scientific 
Bignification, corals actually forming no part of the group Madreporidge. 



Ch. XXL] GRAND PORT BA V. 257 

and they are buried in the sand for a certain number of days, 
when they begin to whiten. They are very particular as to 
the time, for if left too long they blacken and are spoilt. 
When dug up they are exposed to the full blaze of the sun, and 
every day sprinkled with sea-water, till they resemble masses of 
frosted snow. They are generally sold amongst the shipping, 
as the sailors give good prices for them to take home, the 
people there caring little for such things. The Creoles have a 
notion that a piece of coral in a house induces headache. 

The destructive power of the periodical cyclones on the reefs 
is enormous ; huge masses of coral are dislodged, and carried 
in towards the shore, where they still go on growing, though 
less vigorously than heretofore, and form an irregular surface, 
when sheltered from the force of the waves, but never a com- 
pact reef like that exposed to the ever-surging billows. 

The reefs in Grrand Port Bay, on the coast near Black Eiver, 
and round the Morne, are the most extensive. In the first-men- 
tioned they are making in rapidly, and in no very long period of 
time this bay will be impassable for any but the smallest fishing- 
boats. Not from the quick growth of the corals, which is of 
the slowest possible, as, according to the greatest authorities, 
hundreds of thousands of years have been required to bring the 
reefs to their present size. It is from the masses of loose coral, 
shell drift, coral debris, and sand brought in by every tide, ^d 
heaped up by every south-easter or hurricane. 

A contemplation of the sea, even in persons who look on it 
only as a 'waste of waters,' generally induces a feeling of 
seriousness, if not of sadness. It has a powerful attraction for 
many who rarely give more than a passing thought to the 
countless hordes of living beings within it. What endless 
reflections, then, must it evoke for those who believe with 
Humboldt that the ' sea contains within its bosom an exube- 
rance of life of which no other portion of the globe could give 
us any idea 1 ' How truly does another naturalist remark, that 
' science has so much to explore in it to carry the knowledge 
already acquired to the degree of perfection of which it is sus- 
ceptible I ' 

How full are those vast prairies of the deep, those ocean 
forests, of organised beings, all enjoying life under conditions so 
utterly opposed to those of terrestrial origin ; yet all luxuriating 



258 TIGER SHARK. [Ch. XXI. 

in those hyaline depths, whose profound beauty is nevertheless 
fraught with horror and death to man ! 

A French writer, I think Lamarck, says, ' we find in the sea 
unity and diversity which constitute its beauty ; grandeur and 
simplicity which give it sublimity ; power and immensity that 
command our wonder.' 

A few more centuries, a nothing in the world's age, but in 
which the greatest of earth's dynasties may have crumbled to 
dust, when myriads no tongue could count of these frail 
architects, these tiny Acalephs and Actinoid Polyps, have 
perished, their bodies will form monuments that will outlast 
the mightiest fabrics ever raised by human hands. 

They will exist, preparing new lands for new generations of 
men. The winds and waves, ceaselessly spreading ruin and 
devastation for this age, are hourly helping to accumulate and 
consolidate on the coral beds earth and vegetation for the 
lands one day to be inhabited by sentient beings whose intellects 
may far exceed ours, and to whom perchance the secrets of 
Nature hidden from our eyes may be laid bare. 

A crunching sound — a shock — and I am suddenly brought 
back from speculations on the illimitable future to the actual 
fact that my inattentive steering has brought us into contact 
with the reefs on the opposite side of the deep channel. An 
unpleasant feeling comes with the shock, for in case of upset 
even the best swimmer has not a great chance of escape, for 
the deep water swarms with sharks. These scavengers of the 
deep are ever on the alert, as all the dead animals either in 
Port Louis or the shipping are brought out here and flung into 
the sea, when they are at once devoured. 

The Tiger Shark is one of the most voracious of its tribe, a 
true man-eater, quite as ferocious as the Zygoena malleus {Shaw). 
or Hammer-headed Shark, also a native of these seas, but which is 
rarely caught. Young sharks are brought almost daily to the 
market, where they are sold, cut up in slices, to the Indians, who 
take a pleasure in eating them, out of revenge for the numbers 
of human victims made a meal of by the creatures yearly. 

It is very rare for a shark to be seen inside the reefs in shallow 
water, but they infest the deep channels or breaks in the reefs 
at the entrance of every bay on the coast. The Bay of Tombeau, 
of Paul and Virginia ' fame, has acquired a terrible notoriety for 



Ch. XXL] CORAL REEF, 259 

accidents — pirogues or boats frequently upsetting, and one or 
more of the occupants i&nding a grave in the hideous jaws of 
some monstrous shark. 

I assisted at the capture of one of these brutes on board an 
American whale-ship. A bait was put on a large hook, with a 
strong chain attached to a three-inch rope as a line. When he 
felt the hook he ran out some fifteen fathoms from the ship and 
came near breaking the line. A boat was lowered, and one of 
the men sent a harpoon into him, when he made straight at the 
boat ; but a whaleman's nerves are not easily flurried, and a 
steady blow with a whale-spade severed the vertebrae just behind 
the shoulder, otherwise he would probably have upset the boat. 
When brought on board and measured, it was fifteen feet long, 
and the jaws twenty-eight inches in diameter. On opening it, 
twenty-two young sharks were taken out of the creature, most of 
them two feet long. The liver filled a small barrel, and yielded 
a considerable quantity of oil. I have it from good authority that 
sharks twenty-five feet long have been caught off the harbour. 

Dog-fish, skate, rays, and other voracious fish, are constantly 
captured, and all find ready sale among the black races. 

As we slowly glide over the shoal- water we can see the 
corals bristling with Echini ; and it is a lovely sight, as we gaze 
down between the great blocks, to see, at the bottom of pools 
from fifteen to twenty feet deep, numbers of Actiniae in full blow 
and many-hued fish disporting among them. One lovely Actinia 
I see for the first time, the tentacles striated pink and white and 
yellow, and they appear very long, though that may be from the 
effect of the water. I try hard to detach one, but without success. 
Another animal, equally beautiful, I succeed in getting, but it 
resulted in the tube of an Annelide about two inches long, 
of a rough dirty brown. I suppose I injured it in forcing it 
from the rock, where it clung so tenaciously, as it never opened 
again. 

I preserved the case, which, though rough outside, was smooth 
as satin within. 

The Echini, both mammillatus and esculentus, are abundant ; 
also one species I do not know, that has long fine-pointed spines 
nearly four inches in length, beautifully striated, claret -colour 
and white, crossing each other in all directions. They are very 
difficult to preserve, they are so brittle, and are most troublesome 



26o ECHINI. , [Ch. XXL 

to the fisherman, as the spines are serrated, and when they break 
in the flesh are not easily extracted. 

Another very common Echinus has a brown shell with white 
spines barely an inch long.^ I have frequently taken them 
home, and laid them on the ground for the liquids to exude, 
when the small black ant would attack them, climb up the 
shell and detach the spines with the greatest activity, and each 
walk off with a load that must be equivalent to what a large 
beam would be to a man. When one could not manage his 
burden, several would help him down the shell, and then run 
back to their own work. It was most amusing to watch them 
detaching a firmly set spine, pushing under it with their heads, 
and rarely leaving it till they had succeeded. 

There is a beautiful purple Echinus, plentiful at certain sea- 
sons, covered wdth hexagonal plates, exquisitely inlaid and edged 
with a border of elongated ones ; and another of the same 
colour, with spines instead of plates. I have taken at different 
times nine other species of Echini, variously coloured, the 
names utterly unknown to me. 

One of the men hauls up a great branch of the Madre'pore 
cervicornis, and a busy scene takes place instantly. Out leap 
in all directions small glittering fish, the young of the Holo- 
centrum hastatum, and others I do not know, green and white. 
The coral tips are all injured, so we proceed to break it up, 
and from every crevice creep crabs of all sizes and colours. 
Some, however, cling so tenaciously they will part with their 
claws rather than loose their hold. Disgusting-looking, flesh- 
coloured Annelidse, covered with white hairs, that punish 
the intruding hand severely ; Squillge, those queer creatures 
that so much resemble the praying mantis ; and shrimps, pink, 
olive, and bright green, make their appearance. 

Buried in the crevices is the black Ophiocornus erinaceus 
(M. and T.) ; and how he manages to tuck in his five stiff 
armour-plated legs into such small holes is always a mystery 
to me, for when in the hand it is so rigid and inflexible, and 
the limbs or some of the joints break off with a touch. 

Our next haul is too handsome to be treated so ruthlessly as 
the last, and with the greatest care (one of the men going 

* The esculentus, I believe. I have frequently eaten it, and found it as good as an 
oyster. 



Ch. XXL] CORALS. 26] 

overboard to lend a helping hand) we fish up a splendid branch 
of the same coral alive, the tips of pale lilac ; and hanging in 
tufts all over it is a pretty little Elachista, which we first care- 
fully detach. Clinging to it are a number of small, rough, 
brown crabs, so nearly the colour of the base of the coral that 
we do not at once notice them. They stick most pertinaciously, 
and are with difficulty got off, but their legs do not appear so 
brittle as those of many other species, so we got a good many 
perfect ones. The claws and eyes are enamelled of the same 
colour as the corals on which they are always found, but when 
dead they change to pure white. On many of the pieces of dead 
coral we saw large clusters of the Digencea simplex, which looks 
so velvety when alive, but quite spoils in the drying. 

Lying about on the bottom are hundreds of mushroom corals 
{Fungus agariciformis). They are very small on the inner 
reefs, and mostly flat, but when alive are curious and interest- 
ing. They have no apparent hold on the rocks they lie on, 
there are no tentacles visible, and, according to Ehymer Jones, 
' they have no separate organs for the performance of the 
vital functions. The thin membraneous film apparently ab- 
sorbs the materials for its support from the water, and deposits 
within its substance the calcareous particles which it secretes, 
moulding them to form its peculiar skeleton.' 

I have taken them alive and kept them so for two days in a 
bowl of sea- water. Their ' gelatinous investment ' scarcely 
contracts from merely lifting the mushroom out of the sea, but 
if touched with a finger it shrinks visibly. All the laminae are 
filled with this gelatinous substance, of a brilliant mottled 
scarlet, green, and white, and when undisturbed it will over- 
flow and cover them, and has a singular appearance as it oscillates 
in the water. At intervals on its surface are the soft sucker- 
like vesicles of a bright lilac colour, which swell out when at 
rest, but shrink into the mass if touched. These vesicles 
were once supposed to be rudimentary tentaculse, but are now 
believed to be filled with air to support the animal in an up- 
right position, as when overturned they appear to die ; I have 
never found a live one reversed. Some of these Fungi of the 
sea are tinted lilac and green only.^ 

' I hare taken two other species at different times of different colours. 



262 CORAL FISHING, [Ch. XXI. 

Very fine hollow ones are taken from the outer reefs and 
bleached for sale. I have seen one over a foot across, which 
was mounted with a silver handle for a card basket, and it 
made an exceedingly pretty and unique ornament for a lady's 
table. 

We drag up a netful of detached corals, and they are alive 
with small star-fish, scarlet, brown, greenish ; the latter 
mottled, and always with two or three short arms and two very 
long ones, or some of them broken, but the wound healed, and 
the end rounded again, and not appearing at all to interfere 
with the creature's locomotive powers. From some bits of corals, 
worn till they resemble small flat stones, hang long wreaths of 
Sargassum, the disc-like root sticking so fast that it requires a 
knife to dislodge it. Every leaf is covered with a pale pink 
parasite, the Jania antennina (Kutz), and at first sight it is 
difficult to distinguish the plant. 

One variety of Madrepore is of the palest rose, on the tips of 
the polyp cells, the upper ones of which are much larger than 
the lower, and all are elongated and narrow ; whereas the lilac- 
coloured ones are rounder and the upper cells cup-shaped. 

Twice only have I found a curious and, I believe, rare coral, a 
species of Gralaxea. It is so fragile that it is quite impossible to 
get it up with rake or hook ; so that, protected from cat-fish, lafs, 
or other troublesome customers by my long boots, I jump over- 
board and bring up the little beauty in my hands. Instead 
of branching, it is a series of slender but solid irregular-shaped 
tubes, about two inches long, that grow in tufts of ten or 
twelve dozen. These tubes are grouped together by being im- 
bedded in a soft white honeycombed matrix for about a third of 
their length, as fine as, and greatly resembling, threads of lace. 
This small coral is indescribably lovely in the water when alive. 
The top of each tube is laminated, and is of pure white ; the 
interstices of the laminae are filled with a brilliant glaucous 
green and mottled white gelatine, very like the animal of the 
Fungi : the lower part is brown. The tubes are only laminated 
about two lines in depth, and the plates are shaped like a broad 
spear-point set on edgeways, every one being finely serrated. 
There are twelve large laminae with a small one between each, 
the inner edges all meeting round a hollow centre. When living, 
a small tentacle, of the shape of a pin's head set on a point, 



Ch. XXL] A YEAR OF CYCLONES. 263 

appears above each plate, and they do not appear as sensitive 
as most of tlie Polyps, for they scarcely retract on touch. In 
one specimen I found two of the tubes united, and a number 
of little ones sprouting round the top like a hen-and-chickens 
daisy. 

These tufts at once arrest the eye among the dingy masses 
of coral they rest on, and for the moment they forcibly re- 
minded me of a bunch of snowdrops springing from the dark 
earth — a singular idea to cross one under a tropical sun ; but 
there is no accounting for the vagaries of thought, which seems 
to delight in drawing comparisons between things of the most 
opposite nature. 

The water is here so transparent that we can see to a depth of 
from fifteen to twenty feet in the hollows between the larger coral 
rocks ; and we never tire of gazing into those deep pools, with 
their cool quiet beauty, so unlike the upper waters. We are 
nearing Barkly Island, and between it and. the shore at Fort 
William the water is so shallow that the boat can only just pass 
at low tides. Beds of Ulvse now show, and we run into a little 
inlet ; and while our boatmen moor their boat with a primitive 
anchor made of a lump of coral, it will not be out of place to 
give some description of the origin of this singular islet. 

The beginning of the year 1868 will be for ever famous in 
the annals of cyclones in the Indian Ocean. From January to 
March they were raging in one part or other of it. Twice they 
visited Mauritius, both times inflicting serious losses on ship- 
ping and sugar plantations. The first cyclone lasted from the 
14th to the 16th of January, which, passing close to the island, 
created a tremendous sea, the waters breaking furiously over the 
N. and W. coasts. At the entrance of Port Louis Harbour, the 
waves were truly frightful, throwing up piles of coral debris^ 
at the right hand (going in), and forming an islet three-quarters 
of a mile in length, in some places from four to six feet high. 
This was nearly united to the mainland, there being only a foot or 
two of water covering the banks opposite Fort William, and 
I have no doubt another hurricane will unite them altogether. 

On the morning of the 16th I went with an American crew 
in a whale-boat, and after some difficulty, and several attempts, 
as the waves were still high, and the surf heavy from the reefs, 
we landed safely on the new islet. The appearance of the 

T 



^64 BARKLY ISLAND. [Ch. XXI. 

broken blocks of coral, shells, and marine debris was remarkable. 
The first thought that struck me was to give it a name, and 
that of the popular Governor suggested itself. I immediately, 
in due form, gave it the name of Barkly Island, in honour of 
that patron of the arts and sciences in Mauritius, and the 
rolling surf, as it dashed a volume of spray over it (and us too), 
gloriously completed the baptism. This name has been acknow- 
ledged, and will last as long as the islet itself. 

The curious formation of Barkly Island has opened up to 
conchologists many beautiful and hitherto rare species of shells, 
and some quite unknown. A peculiar characteristic of very 
many of the shells when first discovered was their brilliant 
colour, particularly those of shades of yellow. As many as 350 
species have been found here, the Cones, Cyprsea, Mitras, 
Pleurotimas, and Tritons being very valuable. The place has 
been ransacked, literally dug over to some depth, till it is 
difficult to find any but the commonest shells, except at low 
tide. 

This morning we are in luck, for it is lower than I have seen 
it for a long time, so that we can go far on the reefs. Out 
everyone turns, laden with bags, bottles, and sticks, to make 
loot of everything that falls in our way, except our two boat- 
men, who looking upon us as slightly non com/pos for giving our- 
selves so much trouble for nothing, bless Allah and his Prophet 
that they are more rational, and lie down at full stretch on the 
coral in the sun for a morning's nap. 

It is a misnomer to call this an island^ for there is not an 
inch of land on it, nothing but a pile of coral, and shell debris 
raised in the centre, and sloping to the reefs on either side. 
On the east the surf is always rolling in, but on the west side 
it is still water, the waves only rising with a gentle splash in 
ordinary weather, thus giving time for large beds of Ulva Luiza 
and Entromorpha intestinalis to grow and flourish, which 
afford shelter to innumerable marine animals. 

My friend and I first explored the east, while the men dug in 
the centre for shells. The last night's tide has left a belt of 
sea-weeds which we pounce on at once, as we frequently find 
many plants here that, grown in deep waters, are rarely washed 
up on the coast — great wreaths of splendid Turbinaria orna- 
ta (Turner), two-thirds of the cup-shaped leaves filled with 



CH.XXI.] MOLLUSCS. 265 

tufts of Sphacelaria tribuloides ( Kuntz). Half-buried in ttie 
coral sand with them are heaps of Sargassum, principally the 
Myriocystum and Polycystum of Aghardt, with here and 
there a bit of the pretty little gracile ; masses of Hypngeas, 
especially the weiy exquisite divaricat a (Grev.),and its numerous 
varieties. 

We find three species of Liagora, one the fine pulverulenta 
(Ag.), so deep-coloured when fresh, but which becomes a dingy 
grey very rapidly. Clinging to every plant, most difficult to 
dislodge, is the Hypncea valenta (Turner), the pest of Port 
Louis Harbour. On detached corals are plants of the Amansia 
glomerata (Ag.), small, but resembling tufts of purplish red 
roses when just out of the water, but they shrivel and darken 
directly on exposure to the air. Decomposed, in large quanti- 
ties, lies the beautiful Hypncea horrida (Ag.) ; but it is impos- 
sible to procure a perfect specimen of it, unless you catch it 
when floating to the shore. 

Occasionally we come on the pretty rose-spotted Cyprcea 
cruenta ; but more numerous are the young of the Tigris, the 
Mauritiana, and the Isabellas, with their orange tips and many 
hues. I have found the C. Cernica at rare intervals here, so 
highly valued by collectors at the present time. As we wade over 
the reefs we meet with various kinds of Tritons — on every ridge 
the dull grey shells of the grandimaculatum (Keeve) edged 
with its silky brown fringe, which is soon lost when dead on the 
shores. The striped varieties of the T. ruticulum (L.) are very 
handsome when taken alive, especially the scarlet and yellow 
varieties. The Tritons can be kept alive a long time in salt 
water, and open out readily, showing the curious animal, white^ 
covered with various-sized brown spots. Also the small Surf 
Harp, which would make an attractive object in an aquarium, 
with its elegant pink mantle studded with yellow stars and spots. 
This attractive mollusc may be always found at low tides on the 
reef, and seems to be a favourite morsel with some fish. Whilst 
wading in the clear water, I saw a small Ourite dart after 
something invisible to me, and back again to his hole. I 
waited patiently for him with my hook-tipped stick, and pre- 
sently captured him. In his stomach were three pretty little 
Surf Harps which the brute had only just swallowed. 

How very few amongst the hundreds in the world who have 



266 A HINT FOR WOMEN, [Ch. XXI. 

collections of shells know anything of the wondrous animals 
which once inhabited them ; yet what a delightful study it is, 
possessing attractions which the mere students of their empty 
houses can never realise. I am glad to see that aquariums are 
becoming one of the fashionable necessities of the day. I say 
fashionable, because, when a thing is once stamped with that 
term, it is pretty sure to be carried out to its fullest extent, and 
numbers who scarcely ever took the trouble to think that a shell 
had an inmate before, will soon begin to take pleasure in watch- 
ing the curious marine animals they are fortunate enough to 
procure. It may be the means of developing in many a mind 
the germs of a love for the study of Nature, which will be one 
good score to the credit of my Lady Fashion. It will be a great 
benefit for the present generation, for if the mothers are or can 
be brought to be deeply imbued with a true appreciation of the 
works of the Grreat Creator, their children will be sure to im- 
bibe it. In my humble opinion, even at the risk of censure 
from the whole Sorosis Club, I hold that a woman would be far 
better employed in telling her girls of the beauties of a Bulla 
with its azure tipped-mantle, or of the gorgeous scarlet robe of 
Conns fuscatus, than in dinning the doctrines of woman's rights 
into their youthful ears, and training them to believe they are 
bound to wage perpetual war against our sex. 

We come to a tolerably flat part of the islet, only bare at 
very low water, and here a new kind of hunt begins, and one 
generally very profitable. We turn over the loose lumps of 
coral, but unless there are few live Crustacea or molluscs stick- 
ing to them outside our labour is in vain. Lift a large one 
gently with this outward and visible sign, and there is as much, 
if not a little more, below it than we know what to do with all 
at once. 

Literally a mass of entangled living animals lies there wait- 
ing for the returning tide. First spring out the quick Salarius 
Dussumerei, difficult to catch as they bound about, and so 
slippery that you can scarcely keep them when caught : they are, 
however, harmless. Not so the eels occasionally there, which 
we let go, as we have already specimens of them. Crabs from a 
quarter of an inch to three inches long crawl off with alacrity, 
and some of them give a sharp nip if not carefully handled. 
Smooth and hairy annelides, star-fish, shrimps, and small but 



Ch. XXL] PHOLAS. 267 

rare Echini, are all jumbled together. Stranger still, you may 
collect a handful of shells, rare Pleurotomas, Drillias, Mitras, 
and all alive ! lucky chance ! with what delight we clutch 
and bag our prizes; how woefully disappointed we are on their 
examination may be guessed when I say that, though every 
shell has life in it, not above one in a hundred has its legiti- 
mate occupant — the legal owners have been long ago devoured by 
the little voracious Hermit Crabs, who appear to make their lair 
in these hollows, and thence make raids on the reefs, carrying 
in their victims and leaving the shells in a heap for the habita- 
tions of their young. They are born robbers, for we find the 
most minute shells with little crabs in them, that cannot long- 
have been hatched, yet they cling as tenaciously to their stolen 
dwellings as the older ones. 

One of the commonest of these Hermit Crabs is black with 
brilliant blue legs, one large white claw, and scarlet eyes. 
Another marauder has blue eyes and a black claw, which he 
raises defiantly when you intrude on him. The Pagurus 
Bernhardus^ of various colours, often quite white, dies very soon 
when out of water — a slight injury kills it ; whereas many of the 
large Soldier and Hermit Crabs are uncommonly lively for a day 
or two, much to my annoyance often, when I have been woke 
up at midnight, after a hard day on the reefs, by their falling 
off the table and clattering over the bare floors. 

With my hammer I broke some of the large blocks of coral 
to hunt for Pholas, the curious and little-known Leptoconchus, 
and others only found in coral. I was very successful as to the 
Pholas : these singular molluscs have the peculiar faculty of 
boring into solid blocks, and preparing a house for themselves, 
and not a house only, but a grave also, for, when once located, 
they live and die there. The Leptoconchus is very rare ; and 
one species found since the formation of Barkly Island is, I 
believe, new. I have never found a live one. On corals, bits of 
wood and shells, we find Serpulas innumerable, many of them 
dead, but occasionally we chance on a living one, which is a 
charming object, when the elegant feathery tentacles are spread 
out, radiating the loveliest colours, but at the least approach 
of a hand they dart like a flash of light into their stony 
chambers. I believe some of the smaller species of Serpula 
may be yet unnamed. 



268 A NEW USE FOR A BOTTLE. [Ch. XXI. 

In one block of coral I found a curious little yellow Chiro- 
nectes, about one inch in length ; and running over the rocks I 
caught a small black one, of which I can find no description ; 
the pectorals and ventrals are used as feet, and the little 
creature scuds along at a great rate. I never succeeded in 
getting another, though I have often hunted for one. 

Whilst busy amongst the corals, my friend made a bargain 
with a man fishing on the reefs for a very large and most villanous- 
looking red Chironectes — I think the C. hirsutus (C. and V.). 
It was so puffed out that I was curious to see the reason ; so I cut 
it open, and found in the stomach a fish nearly as long as itself — 
a young Eouget (Surmullet). How the fish captured it, and, still 
more wonderful, how he swallowed it, I am at a loss to conceive. 
It was there in the stomach — proof positive he had swallowed it, 
yet the jaws did not appear to me capable of such great expan- 
sion. This Chironectes also uses the fins as feet, and, being 
armed with sharp claws, it moves very rapidly over the rocks. 

We find numbers of the pretty Hydatina physis alive, its 
lovely blue and buff mantle forming an elegant trimming to the 
grey striated shells. One of the men brings us his findings 
amongst the dead corals, and we are glad to see many of the 
oddly formed Chinaman's Hats, or Tectum sinense : why 
' Chinaman's,' I don't know, as I never saw one wear a hat of this 
shape. There are many of them quite perfect, and so are the 
pretty and rare Neritojpsis radula and the equally rare Murex 
CuTnmingi, which I have never found alive here, but have 
received fresh specimens of it from Madagascar. 

We find a few of the comical-horned Aplysia depilans, which 
we take especial care of, in order to get their delicate shells 
when dead, which lie in a fold of the back. 

A few common shells, and a few tufts of Ehodymenia of 
various species, are all we find round the farther end of the 
islet. 

Numbers of empty bottles drift here from the shipping, and 
are caught in the rocks. No sooner do they become fixed than 
they are taken possession of ; and it is curious to see the various 
creatures that live amicably together in them, and on them. 
From some I got a small star-fish quite new to me ; in the 
bottom of one was fixed a shell wherein was housed a fat White 
Crab : he was not, however, the sole tenant of his adopted tene- 



Ch. XXI.] EELS. 269 

ment, for on each end of the shell was a large Actinia ; and a 
small one, of a delicate yellow tint with white antennte, hung 
over the front, where the crab protruded his eyes to look at his 
captor. One of the large ones had a lilac, brown, and white 
striated mantle clinging to the shell ; above, it was of a plaided 
brown surmounted by lilac and fawn tentacles, beyond which 
at times the mouth extended. The other had the basal lines 
green, pink, and white, the same plaided appearance above, but 
the tentacles Colourless, with a deep pink mouth. I brought 
home this curious family, and kept it in a shallow dish for some 
days : the crab did not trouble at all about his neighbours, nor 
did their weight affect him. The small Actinia soon disgorged 
its filamented interior and died. The large ones exuded small 
rose-coloured filaments from the pores in the mantle, and a 
small quantity from the mouth : the latter were, however, re- 
swallowed, and they opened their antennae freely. Towards the 
end of the second day the mantles began to loosen, but on 
changing the sea-water they again adhered, and it was only on 
the fourth day that they collapsed, and slipped off dead : I do not 
doubt they would be very hardy in an aquarium. I once took 
one with seven Actiniae on the same shell, the mantles of two 
partially over the opening ; yet the crab's crawling in and out 
did not appear to interfere with them. I should like to know 
who was the first tenant. _ 

Nearly every bottle had an eel in it, and most troublesome 
fellows they are to dislodge. I got out one, a foot and a half 
long and two inches thick, but how he managed to squirm in 
I know not, unless he went in thin, and fattened on the remains 
of the champagne. I had to break the neck of the bottle to 
get at him, and when I had wounded him he raised his head 
and showed fight, puffing defiance at me. A little terrier I had 
with me, seeing its threatening attitude, rushed to the rescue ; 
but poor Quilp had to retreat ignominiously, howling pitifully, 
as his new enemy bit him in the cheek,^ and I had to give 
him a second sharp stroke to keep him from wriggling into the 
sea. 

There is a great variety of eels in this harbour : I have eighteen 
already in my sketch-book, and that is only a small portion of 

' Leaving, where the sharp teeth had caught him, a long scar for life. 



270 EELS. [Ch. XXI. 

those I have seen. Amongst the rare ones I may mention the 
Muroena tentaculata, which takes its name from the feathery 
tentacles on the upper lip. The body is jet black, the dorsal 
fin of bright yellow, with a basal line of blue, and the anal fin 
is entirely of the latter colour. I had one sent to me alive in 
a basket of sea-water by the captain of a whale-ship, who caught 
it in the outer harbour. It was one of the most eleaant 
creatures I ever saw, and every evolution grace itself ; when I 
touched its mouth with a stick, it did not snap at it, as most 
of the eels do here, but seemed rather to try and avoid it. 

One species is, I believe, new, a bright-green eel, spotted all 
over with yellow, a pale green dorsal fin, and bright crimson 
eyes, which gives it a most ferocious look. The only specimen 
I ever had was about a foot long. The Anguille a rubans, as 
the Creoles call them, are numerous and very varied. The bands 
or ribbons of black or brown are all at equal distances, but the 
large spots are very different. I have three drawings, one witli 
two, one with eight, and another with fifteen large oblong 
black spots. Some have no spots, and these are the females, so 
the fishermen say. 

The Pcecilopteris variegata is very common, and has also 
several varieties. When alive the markings are all irregular, 
running into each other, but when dead they take the regular 
form seen in drawings of this eel. The same thing I have 
noticed with others ; a very common one, the Ciseaux (Creole), 
I had drawn from a dead specimen, and when I fii'st saw a live 
one I proceeded at once to sketch it, taking it for a different 
one. Something interrupting me, I was unable to finish it 
till after it was dead, when I found it the same as the other, 
the confusion of brown lines and blotches having subsided into 
regular figures. Nearly all the eels I have here met with 
resemble snakes in their manner of elevating the head, and the 
fierce way they turn on man when disturbed. One cunning 
fellow, I think the Anguille morele, often gives the unwary 
fisher a sharp bite. It grows about two feet long, and is of a 
sandy colour, with the tail tipped pink. The fin is scarcely 
perceptible round the tail, which is stiff and pointed, and with 
it he digs a hole in the muddy bottom, deep enough for him 
to stand on end in. Here he waits for his prey, with his head 
only visible, his keen eyes allowing nothing to escape liim, and 



Ch. XXL] WHAT TO DRINK. 271 

beinof so colourless under water lie often catches the fishermen's 
legs or hands as they grope" about after cat-fish. One day, when 
out at some distance from the reefs, I had the rare good fortune 
of watching an eel exude its spawn. I noticed the creature 
swimming uneasily about, and it excited my curiosity. Al- 
though my presence evidently annoyed her, it would appear 
this was the spot she had chosen to deposit her eggs. After 
gracefully and slowly circling round, she remained for a few 
moments perfectly motionless, and then the operation com- 
menced, resulting in a beautiful spiral scarlet string of spawn, 
nearly ten inches in length, and over an inch in width. After 
all was completed, and the eel had carefully examined it, with 
a sudden dart it disappeared, and I was unable to capture it. 
I carefully collected the eggs, and preserved them in glycerine, 
but am sorry to say they soon faded to a faint yellow. The string 
resembles to the naked eye a delicate scarlet fabric of lace. 

We emptied all the bottles we could find of their living con- 
tents, carefully replacing even the broken ones, as traps for 
future use. All this work, though exciting, was considerably 
fatiguing, and we were by this time hungry as wolves, so we 
called a halt, and proceeded to breakfast. An old sail spread 
over the rough coral served us for table and seats, and we made 
quick work of the contents of our dishes. 

Here I would give a hint to fellow-hunters of the sea, on the 
proper thing to take on such an excursion. I pronounce it to 
be tea, that blessed drink that quenches thirst without causing 
inebriation. I have tried all kinds of liquids, and find that I 
work better, never get overheated, or headache from the sun, 
when I keep to tea, so always lay in a store of bottles of it. 
Brandy I take in case of accidents, but a sUll better 
remedy from the ill resulting from contact with the many 
noxious creatures we meet, pricks from spines, or stings, is a 
mixture of tincture of Urtica urens or of tincture of ledum 
(one part tine, to five of water), and either will allay the 
consequent irritation like a charm, and will prevent in- 
flammation. It is a decided and serious mistake to use beer, 
porter, wine, or ardent spirits when exposed to a blazing sun, 
as on such an expedition one necessarily is. 

Breakfast and cigars over, we return to our work, and begin 
to drag the side pools on the west side of the islet. As we dip 



272 



UNDER THE SEA. 



[Ch. XXI. 



oiu" nets we disturb shoals of brilliant little fish, but so active 
that I have never been able to catch one, though I have tried on 
each visit to this spot. They are silvery-white with a blue 
line from snout to tail —if full-grown or only the young of some 
fish I know not ; but other prizes soon make up for their loss. 
The men with their baskets caught two small lafs of the genus 
Pterois. They require most delicate handling to preserve them 
alive to carry them home for sketching. In the water the}^ 
resemble winged creatures. The skin is a dead white, with 
vivid pink or scarlet and brown lines. The first dorsal fin is 




SUBMARINE VTEW. 



free with the exception of a small strip of bright-colourecj 
membrane at the base ; the pectorals are free half-way along 
the rays, and extend over the caudal of scarlet white and green ; 
the latter with the second dorsal and anal fins are yellow, with 
rows of black spots, and the ventrals are jet black with scarlet 
tips and large white spots twice the depth of the body. Above 
the eyes are long striated filaments, which give its name 
{Pterois antennata\ and from the mouth and preoperculse float 
green and scarlet leaflets. When alive and every part is fully 
expanded, it is equally beautiful and curious, as it has a quick 



Ch. XXL] THE LAFF. 27^ 

quivering movement, never quite at rest. No conception of it 
can be formed from a dried specimen. The upper lip when 
living overlaps the under, but immediately after death it shrinks 
back and alters the character of the face. Some have a deep 
maroon stripe passing through the eyes and down the cheeks. 
This Pterois is called the Flying Lafif by the Creoles, but the 
true P. volitans differs somewhat from this. The fishermen 
say these fish grow large, but I have never seen one more than 
seven inches long. I have had some fine specimens of the Laf 
des brisants (^Pterois muricata), which they say acquires its 
rich scarlets and greens by feeding on the Polyps of the outer 
reefs. 

Scorpsenas abound here, or Lafs de corail, of every vivid hue 
mingled together, marvels of colour ; but we only found a dead 
one washed on shore. In this genus the dorsals and pectorals 
are nearly full, with the exception of the inferior rays of the 
latter, which are singularly rounded and flattened, as if they 
served also as feet, as the Creoles say they do, and they cer- 
tainly have the appearance of it. The very name of Laff inspires 
dread, on account of the dangerous wounds inflicted by the 
spines of the genus Synauceia, but I doubt those of the Pterois 
and Scorpsena being of the same nature. I have several times 
pricked myself with the muricata and volitans when preparing 
them, but without any harmful result. Perhaps, when alive, 
they may be poisonous. 

We found some of the finest specimens of animals of the order 
Grymnobranchiata I ever beheld. One was as large as a good- 
sized dinner-plate ; it was white, with large chocolate blotches, 
and a pink mantle : unluckily it died too soon. Two others I 
succeeded in bringing home to sketch. I never saw any living- 
animals with such gorgeous colours — the most vivid carmine and 
pure white, mixed with golden yellow in the bodies and mantles, 
and the gills of pale lemon colour and lilac. No painting could 
give an idea of the harmony of the shades as they blended 
into each other, or the undulating grace of the movements of 
the mantles. I have sat for an hour at a time watching them, 
lost in admiration, and frequently turning them over to see the 
expert way they would contract the elegant gill-branches, and 
re-open them as soon as they had righted themselves, but I could 
never decide which was the lovelier. Whilst I was busy with 



274 SHRIMPS. [Ch. XXI. 

my net, my friend was raking up old shells and corals ; and 
amongst the former were some large broken Doliums, all con- 
taining crustaceans of the Anomura group. None were very 
fine specimens, but later I was lucky enough to procure a fine 
male and female of two species. These large Hermit Crabs are 
not to be easily dislodged from their borrowed habitations ; 
every whorl of the shell to the last must be broken — and most 
miserable the crab looks when out. He crawls helplessly about, 
but will make eagerly for any shell offered, if he can only get 
his tail in it, to hide which seems his great anxiety. 

There is one species — I believe, the Pagurus punctulatus — 
which grows to a great size : the fishermen tell me they have 
taken it on the outer reefs over a foot long, with monstrous 
chelae. 

We add considerably to our stock of shrimps from the tide- 
pools. The beautiful Stenopus hispidus (Lat.), once so rare, has 
been often found lately close to this islet, and is a most attrac- 
tive object, of pure white, with scarlet, blue, and lilac patches 
on the joints. We only saw a dead one on this day, but I have 
a fine collection of them, procured at different times. The 
beauty par excellence is a shrimp I have only seen twice, and found 
once, some time ago, and which I believe is still unnamed. The 
Hippolyte of Sowerby is the nearest thing I know to it ; but it 
has a pair of foliaceous appendages in front, in three divisions, 
that float out gracefully when alive, but contract into little 
more than a mere coloured line when dead ; and these mark it 
quite a different species, if not a new genus. It is exquisitely 
striated, edged with large patches of scarlet and brown, blue on a 
pure white ground, making it very brilliant when in the water. 

All this time the men were getting up corals round the islet, 
and bringing them to us for inspection. To attempt any 
description of their varied forms and beauty when taken from 
the water would be quite useless, as I could give no adequate 
notion of them to those who have never seen live corals. Many 
were new to me, some possibly still undescribed by savans. 
We might almost say with the poet, as we examine the curious 
zoophytes we find amongst our treasures, 

involved in sea-wrack, here you find a race, 
Which science doubting, knows not where to place ; 
On shell or stone is dropped the embryo seed. 
And quickly vegetates the vital breed. 



Cn. XXL] LOBSTERS. 275 

The tide rising rapidly, and the sun being in full blaze, we are 
glad to take to the shelter of our boat's awning, and we slowly 
leave the islet and steer towards Grrand Eiver mouth. One of 
the men has picked up a fine specimen of the Flying Gurnard 
(Dactylopterus volita7is),not quite dead, so that we see the rich 
blue and scarlet shadings in the wing-like fins, which fade out 
soon after death. 

Fishermen may be seen on some parts of the reefs any time 
in the twenty-four hours ; fish being sold twice a day in the Port 
Louis market, and the best and freshest are to be got in the 
afternoon. Several men are just in our route, so we hail them, 
and ask for an inspection of their catches. I must say it is very 
rarely we get a rude or surly reply. One has a quantity of 
Ourites (Creole) or Poulpes only. They swarm all over the reefs, 
and incalculable numbers are taken, the small ones for bait, and 
the larger are sold for food, both fresh and salted. The imple- 
ment for their capture is of the simplest, merely a long elastic 
stick with an iron harpoon-like head, and this they thrust into 
all the holes. When caught they dexterously turn the ugly 
brute inside out, and thread it on a string slung round the 
neck. 

Another man has a large basket in which are two lobsters 
(homards), as they are erroneously called here {Palinuriis sp.). 
There are six or seven species, some fine eating, and all bril- 
liantly coloured. They have a mortal antipathy to the Ourite, 
and advantage of this is taken to lure them from their holes. 
A long tentacle of the latter is suspended at the entrance, when 
there is a likelihood of finding a homard ; and no sooner does he 
catch sight of the dreaded weapon covered with suckers, than 
away he rushes in terror, and is soon caught by a noose of split 
bamboo firmly fixed over his tail, though not without a struggle, 
and the fellow can inflict a sharp wound with his powerful 
caudal spines. Care is taken not t6 place him near his enemy, 
or the flesh will be spoilt before he gets to market, the creature 
being literally sick from fright. 

We pass a man who has collected curios for me a long time, 
and he shows us a fine basket of mullets caught by line, the 
Mulct voleuT (Creole) — a delicate table fish when freshly caught, 
unlike the larger mullets {Mulet sec), which, as their Creole 



276 HOLOTHURIA. [Ch. XXI 

name denotes, are dry, and have a strong flavour from the coarse 
food they live on. 

We are far from shore, yet above us, slowly winging its flight 
out seaward, is a large butterfly, the Euplooe Euplone. I have 
often seen the pretty JDanais chrysippus, and even the stately 
Phortante, out nearly as far as the Bell Buoy, though what 
they seek over the restless waves is always a puzzle to me. 

Hundreds of Holothurise lie on the bottom, particularly the 
common Biche de mer. It is of a dark brown, and I believe of 
the same species as the one so plentiful in the Chinese seas, 
and eaten by the Celestials. I am not aware of its being an 
article of food here. It is quite harmless, and will live a long 
while in a vessel of salt water. Very different is another species, 
the Grratelle, which may not be handled with impunity, for it 
causes most violent irritation of the skin when touched, and brings 
out an eruption and swelling ; fortunately it only lasts a few 
hours, and if bathed at once with the ' Ledum ' lotion, the pain 
soon ceases. 

This Holothuria, about the size and shape of a small cucum- 
ber, is a mottled brown colour, and has to all appearance four 
fins when taken ; but soon after capture it throws them all off, 
and they swim about quite independently of the trunk. I have 
at different times found at least twenty varieties of Holothuria 
in Port Louis harbour, many of the most vivid hues. I once 
kept a large one for inspection that was covered above with 
thick red blunt bristles, and underneath with black ones, having 
a flat white enamelled top. These bristles lengthened near the 
mouth, which was surrounded by a circle of twenty very dark 
maroon tentacles, with ciliated edges and delicate pink lining. 
All over it were minute white shells stuck fast in the bristles. 
Sand and small corals lay in the water, and I saw it pick them 
up by closing the tentacles round them, and drawing them into 
the bony-looking aperture. The intestinal canal terminates in an 
opening twice as wide as the mouth, and is so transparent that it 
can be traced, and its contents easily seen. In the same glass 
were two others of different species ; but they both died in the 
night, disgorging their whole insides, and lying across the large 
one. They were so entangled that the live one could not move, 
and this caused such excessive irritation, that though I care- 
fully removed them early in the morning, the thin membrane 



Ch. XXI.] DOLABELLA. ill 

burst, and the whole of the viscera protruded. The delicate pink 
arborescent branchiae were all forced out, and a bundle of snow- 
white and rose filaments several feet in length lay entangled 
en masse in this animal ruin. The sand and coral debris forms 
only a portion of their food, or perhaps may be taken only to 
assist digestion, for some of them are very voracious, and I 
have frequently found crabs and shrimps in their mouths. 

We leave the flat reefs and pass over deep water, with occa- 
sional masses of rock, and then cross the deep channel opposite 
Grrand Eiver mouth. There we can see the famous Bound 
Towers, part of the defences that once appeared so formidable, 
but which would be of little avail against appliances and con- 
trivances of modern warfare. Soon a bottom of sand and mud 
is visible, and our curiosity is excited by black streaks in all 
directions over it. I plunge in my rake, and they prove to be 
the mouths of large Pinnae, but the shells are so fragile that 
the teeth of the rake go through them; so, to procure some 
perfect specimens, I jump overboard and dig them up. The 
Pinnae are another enemy to the poor fishermen (whose pedal 
coverings are often little more than old soles bound on with 
rags), as they stand straight up in the mud with only the mouth 
visible, and the edges of the shells make a gash like a knife. 

I wade on to the shore, and here come upon one of om- 
luckiest finds to-day. The late breezes had brought up a 
number of the curious Dolabella Rumphi. As its shell lies in 
the back, almost covered with flesh, it is impossible to get it till 
the animal is dead. We procure over a dozen fine ones, but 
having been dead . some time, all the deep lilac liquid, which 
sun-q^nds the shell in a membraneous sac when alive, had 
disappeared. From one Dolabella I took on Barkly Island, somt- 
time since, I got nearly half an ounce of the viscous liquid, which 
retained its coloui even when dry. The very large ones would, 
I have no doubt, yield twice as much, and I should think could 
be used as a dye, for it stained everything it touched. 

We stroll along the shore towards Petite Riviere ; but a few 
common Venus and Nautica shells, some Hypneas and Ectocarpi, 
being all we can find, we return to our boat. 

High overhead, so high that they appear like white specks 
against the deep blue sky, at intervals are seen the Boatswain or 
Tropic birds (Phceton candidus), slowly wending their way 



278 THE MUD LAFF. [Ch. XXI. 

from the sea, where they have been feeding all day, to their inland 
mountain homes. 

Occasionally one will swoop down with the rapidity of light- 
ning on some too-daring fish which has imprudently displayed its 
silver sides, and with a plunge dexterously catching it in its 
powerful bill, it soars up again till almost out of sight, to bear it 
to his mate, who, sitting patiently on her one egg on some 
bristling crag, waits for her lord to bring her evening meal. It 
is, however, rarely they return so late as this, so I suppose the 
gentleman has been taking advantage of his liberty, and gone 
a-roving ; or, having been unsuccessful in his fishing, dare not 
return to Materfamilias with empty beak. If a sharp voice is 
a sign of a vixenish temper, Mrs. Phaeton can scold to some 
purpose when angry, her ordinary notes being a piercing screech. 

It is quite time we are homeward bound, as we are far from 




MUD LAFF. 



the city, and a swell is rising that will put our men on their 
mettle to make the harbour before nightfall. 

We pass a little pirogue tossing about on the waves with two 
men in it, one pulling and the other sorting his fish. As we 
pull by him, to our questions as to what he has caught, after 
showing us some packets assorted ready for sale, he held up one 
of the most dreaded fish of the coast, the Mud Laff {Synanceia 
hrachia), abundant all round the island, and considered good 
food by the lower classes. 

This most hideous and disgusting-looking fish averages from 
16 to 18 inches in length. The spongy, wrinkled, leprous-like 
skin is ordinarily blotched with white-grey and brown, on an olive 



Ch. XXL] POISONOUS FISH. 279 

ground, but is generally so covered with mud and 'vs eeds that it 
is only after a great deal of trouble that it can be cleaned so as 
to show its true colours, as it seems to exude a glutinous matter 
which, attracting anything it comes in contact with, forms a 
thick coat over the whole body. The dorsal resembles an 
irregular row of tubercles, each with a spine rather than a fin, 
and the short wide puffed-out pectorals give it a dull appearance 
when swimming, as if it had a ruff round its neck. Being the 
colour of the mud, it is difficult to distinguish it at a short 
distance, and its very small bright eyes at the top of the head 
enable it to lie in wait unseen by its victims ; the ventrals lie 
flat in the ooze, and the uncouth head is drawn back so that 
the great vertical mouth stands wide open to catch any unwary 
fish that pass his way.^ The prey is sucked in and swallowed 
and done for, but it is a sorry day when human hand or foot inad- 
vertently touches it. I have hitherto managed to escape them 
in my wadings in search of marine curiosities, but I always 
keep a very sharp look-out, and wear the thickest of long boots. 

Grand Eiver, SE., is said to be especially infested with laffs, 
and during a visit there the fishermen cautioned me about 
going into the water, as I should be sure to be ' piqued.' How- 
ever, I wished to make some experiments with this fish, so went 
expressly with the hope of capturing some. The truth of their 
abundance was soon veiified, and an old expert that I had 
taken the caution to secure as assistant quickly procured me 
several specimens. We placed them alive in a vessel prepared 
for the purpose. 

One large brute I laid on a dish, and tickled him under the 
pectorals, when the dorsal, which usually lies in a lumpy mass 
on the back when undisturbed, was quickly raised, and in a few 
seconds, when I touched the dorsal, the fish, with a spasmodic 
effort, ejected a greenish slimy substance through the hollow 
spines, and this I concluded to be the poison injected into 
wounds, making them so difficult to cure. To prove the 
dangerous nature of this poison, I punctured the ball of the 
forepaw of a kitten with one of the front spines (said to be the 
worst). The animal was immediately affected, and died of 
convulsions in an hour. 

I saw a poor fellow near Tamarind Bay who had trodden on a 
laff, winch wounded the ball of the gveat toe on the right foot. 

U 



28o 



OCEAN VISIONS, 



[Ch. XXI. 



It was much swollen when I looked at it. I at once opened 
the wound with a scalpel, and applied a strong solution of liquor 
ammonise to it. His comrades made a poultice of the leaves of 
the Uhretia petioles, and applied it ; and in about an hour's time 
he began to feel a little relief. I gave him also a good glass of 
brandy to keep up his courage, for he was near fainting from 
the agony he endured, and his state of alarm lest lockjaw should 
ensue was pitiful to see. I afterwards learnt that he felt 
the effects of the wound for a very long time. I have seen 





THE OCEAN. 



several such cases since, and one especially terrible in the 
hospital, where the puncture was on the sole of the foot, and no 
aid had been given till some hours after. The foot and leg 
swelled tremendously ; and after some days the wound sloughed, 
leaving a large hole. It was over two months before the man 
was able to be discharged. 

There is a similar fish called the ' Laff des brisants,' of the 
general colour of the mud laff, but with blotches of bright 
scarlet on the body and pectorals, and the skin is tubercled all 



Ch. XXL] SUNSET. 281 

over, particularly on the operculars and cheeks ; and even 
when dried, the tubercles are still visible. Laffs appear to be 
natives of all the warm waters of the Indian and Pacific Oceans, 
and everywhere are equally dreaded. 

We approach some fishing-boats lying quietly in our route, 
and are greeted with shouts and invectives, and find we are all 
but entangled in their long seines, just laid out for the night's 
fishing. Plying boats are hurrying home from the vessels 
just arrived in the outer harbour, that have obtained traffic- 
pratique, but too late to be towed in. The sun is fast sinking 
below the horizon, and as he bids us farewell he sheds a part- 
ing glory over land and sea. Airy visions of snow-capped hills 
and sunny vales such as were never trod by mortal man, float- 
ing slowly over the sky, charm our tired senses — landscapes 
that fancy loves to sketch in the ever-changing sunset-tipped 
clouds — visions as fleeting as most of earth's brightest dreams. 

At last the flaming orb vanishes, our cloud-land scenes melt 
into each other, snow and sunshine and storm curiously blent ; 
sombre greys steal over the brilliant tints, and a feeling of 
chilliness creeps on us. We urge on our boatmen, and they 
have enough to do to pull up to the Fanfaron by dark, as 
twilight is of the most limited duration here. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

A TOUR ROUND THE ISLAND. 

My Comrades and Preparations — Grand River — Kcenig's Tower — Race-jockeys — 
Denmark Hill — Point aux Caves — Caverns — Probable Origin of the Petite 
Riviere Caverns — Strange Sights — A Night on the Rocks — Fishing a la Pata- 
trand — Plaines of St. Pierre — Grand Prospect from our Dining-room — Fight with 
a Tazarre — Rempart River — The Trois Mamelles — Catching Prawns — Tama- 
rind River and Bay — Catching Olives — Raspberries — Rats andTenrecs as Sharers 
in our Bedroom — Up the Bed of the River — Our Night's Lodging — Point Flinders 
—Account of Captain Flinders — The Tamarind Falls — Geneve Estate — Black 
River — The Morne — Flying Foxes — Baie du Cap — A Python Creeper — The 
Chamarel Falls — The Bel Ombre Estate — Jacotet Bay — Its Historic Interest — 
Effect of the AVinds on the neighbouring District — River des Galets — Actinias — 
A Marine Garden — Night-fishing — Falls of the River des Galets — Bay of Souillac 
— The Savane — The Bois Sec — Tree Ferns — Grand Bassin — Savane Falls — 
River du Poste — The Coast near the Souffleur — Pont Naturel — Bras de Mer de 
Chaland — Point d'Esny — Grand Port — Isle Passe — Mahebourg — The Cemeterj'. 

Haying made up my mind to take a tour round Mauritius, I 
selected the month of July as most suitable, the heat being 
.then not so oppressive, and the chances of rain less. 

I invited an English officer, and a member of the medical 
profession, to accompany me. For our outfit, a round double- 
canvas tent, portable cooking apparatus (that had travelled 
many thousand miles with me before), a small photo-camera, 
and my tin vasculum, for the time-being filled with shirts 
and socks, were all that we required. As the above items were 
heavy and cumbersome, I employed two men with carrioles to 
carry our baggage, and meet us at certain points, which I had 
previously marked out as halting-places. 

My object was to examine the coast, collect marine plants, 
with the view of naming and classifying the Algae of the 
island, and to make short excursions into the interior, so as to 
obtain an accurate knowledge of the mountains and natural 
curiosities from personal observation, as well as to photograph 
them. 

On a cool bracing morning I left Port Louis at daylight 



Ch. XX] I.] A TOUR. 283 

and rode as far as Grrand Kiver, where my friends joined me. 
Over this river, which has its rise in the high lands of Plaines 
Wilhems, is a neat substantial suspension-bridge, and the view 
both seaward and inland is very pretty. Some distance up the 
river are seen the grand proportions of the railway-bridge, 
with the varied peaks of Mount Ory, and the Corps de Grarde as 
a background, and the water ripples in tiny cascades over the 
rocky bed till lost in the sea. 

This ravine, during the months the river is low, is filled with 
reeds and wild plants. One of the water-courses of the town 
runs along its left bank, which is very steep. Springs of water 
filter through it, and the constant moisture keeps it clothed 
with a most luxuriant growth of ferns, especially the lovely 
little Adiantum Capillus-venerisj which is very abundant. A 
curious pea grows among the rank herbage, with a large brown 
velvety seed-pod ; but beware of touching it, for it is one of the 
cow-itch tribe, and the slightest contact fills the hands with 
innumerable minute hairs, which sting like a nettle, and quickly 
inflame the parts touched. The pools in the river-bed abound 
with the Neretina longispina and coronata, and the Nerita 
zigzag. The former it is very difficult to procure perfect, as 
they are devoured so ravenously by the rats which swarm in 
this locality. 

The banks and dry stones look as if a snow shower had 
descended on them, for here are washed nearly the whole 
of the clothes of Port Louis ; and watching the dhobies or 
washermen at work, vigorously beating every article on the 
stones, I no longer marvelled at my shirts and pants always 
coming home buttonless and ragged : no fabric ever invented 
could stand it. 

Most of the cottages near the suspension-bridge have shrubs 
and trees round them. The flamboyant and elegant Poincillade 
(Poinciana pulcherrima), with the lilac Bougainvillaea, give 
patches of colour that relieve the heavy foliage of the Bada- 
niers and Jamrosas. But the whole village looks desolate, so 
many houses are to let ; and the few that are inhabited, mostly in 
disorder, give the place a ruinous look, considerably aided by 
the thick coating of stone-dust from the high road which runs 
through it. This, with the exception of the railway bridge, is 
the main outlet from Port Louis to Plaines Wilhems. 



284 KCENIGS TOWER. [Ch. XXII. 

I noticed about here a very pretty sort of acacia, the 
MoTinga pterygosperTna, or Brede Morungue, as the Creoles 
call it. The leaves and white flowers are eaten as a vegetable, 
and the very long rounded seed-pods are considered a great 
delicacy when curried. 

The view seaward extends many miles, and is enlivened by 
pirogues and boats manned by fishermen returning from their 
night's work for the early market in Port Louis. The former 
are exactly like the American Indian dug-outs, hollowed out 
of one solid tree, generally the Colophane {Golophania Mauri- 
tania?). They require skilful handling, and considerable steadi- 
ness when once seated in them, as they easily upset ; yet the 
fishermen skim along with them with a single paddle, dancing 
about from side to side, and rarely capsize them. 

On the north bank of the river is a martello tower, com- 
manding the whole bay at its mouth ; and near this bridge is 
a large dam, from which an aqueduct carries a stream of water 
that supplies the west of the city. 

Just beyond Grrand Elver are the Lunatic Asylum, Police 
Station, and Vagrant Depot. 

Here we started afoot, turning down the road by the latter 
building, through a deep cut in the hill, passing close to the 
house of the Honourable Mr. Koenig. This gentleman resides 
on the summit of a hill commanding a fine view of the ocean ; 
and near his house he erected a large high round tower, 
which is still unfinished, and the joists which supported the 
staging for the workmen still extend from the openings for the 
windows. 

I was informed that the Government would not allow the 
tower to be completed, as it was intended to occupy the various 
stories as sleeping-rooms, and it was feared that the lights at 
night would be seen far away at sea, and be mistaken for those 
at the entrance of Port Louis harbour, and cause vessels to 
strike the reef, which makes far out from the shore at this part 
of the coast. 

The road winds round a small lodge in front of Mr. Koenig's 
house, down through a grove of tamarind-trees out into the 
Plain of Petite Eiviere. Here the Grovernment had formerly 
a military station, and some six or eight of the buildings are 
still standing. 



Ch. XXIL] ENGLISH JOCKEYS.. 285 

After we had gone about half a mile we came upon some 
jockeys on racehorses, who had preceded us on the road. They 
told us this was the finest ground for training in the island. 
They were exercising their horses for the races in August. 
After listening some time to the merits of their steeds, one of 
the jockeys informed us we should bet on ' Shadow,' as she was 
sure to win. ' Look at them 'ere legs,' said he ; ' and there's a 
heye ! Why, sir, she'll jump twenty feet at a spring ; she'll 
go round that 'ere course like a swaller I ' 

We left them to their sport, and went on to make the most 
of the cool morning, over about three miles of ground, nearly 
to Denmark Hill, the residence of the Dutch Consul. A small 
lagoon interrupts the road, and on going round it we passed 
some lime-kilns on the shore. Nearly all the lime in the 
island is made of coral, which when burnt is of dazzling white- 
ness, but is very liable, when used for mortar, to render build- 
ings damp, and discolour plastering and paper in wet weather. 
This inconvenience is caused by its containing too much muri- 
ate of chalk and magnesia, which, uniting with the marine 
salts, instantly attract damp, thus rendering houses unhealthy, 
and accelerating the destruction of the wood which enters so 
largely into the construction of all edifices here. Coral, when 
taken from the old beds, is better than the fresh when burnt 
for lime, on account of its being deprived of much of its saline 
property. 

The road up to the Consul's is shaded with fine trees, and a 
large garden is attached to the house. 

On the premises is a well, cut down through the solid rock 
to the depth of 130 feet, which supplies the place with water. 
Here we were most hospitably entertained, and did ample 
justice to our breakfast after our long walk. 

When we left we kept along the shore wherever possible, and 
soon came upon the ruins of an old French fortification, an 
earthwork ; and just in the rear were the remains of a number 
of houses, which I suppose were formerly occupied by the French 
soldiers, and round them rifle-pits, rudely constructed of loose 
stones set in mortar. I presume the object of this fort was to 
prevent the landing of men-of-war's boats, as it commanded an 
opening in the reefs, where boats could pass in nearly all 
weathers, as the sea rarely breaks across it. 



286 TIDE-POOLS. [Ch. XXII. 

We found many curious plants in the tide-pools, a number of 
which I secured for my collection. 

The shore soon proved too tedious to proceed along it, being* 
covered with huge boulders and detached rocks, and we were 
glad to go up on the table-land. 

There we had a fresh enemy, for the long coarse grass is full 
of the most pertinacious of burs, that worked their way through 
our clothes, annoying us exceedingly.' 

We started hares, partridges, and quails, but they objected 
to be shot. Hundreds of Nyna birds were whistling on the 
trees, but whether it was a morning song or a right royal row 
it would be difficult to say ; the noise was deafening till we 
came near the Point aux Caves. 

This bold headland terminates in huge masses of rock of 
every conceivable shape, the sea breaking directly upon them. 
The water is so deep that the Polyp that forms the coral has 
not been able to build its cells there. 

The tide-pools in this vicinity are full of beautiful and rare 
fish, which I tried hard to capture with hook and spear. They 
were exceedingly active, but when not disturbed they re- 
mained floating perfectly motionless. The one we at last suc- 
ceeded in catching was about five inches long, with large pec- 
toral fins, similar to those of a flying-fish, only the rays were 
very far apart, of a bright blue ; the web between was variegated, 
and the dorsal fin large in proportion. It looked more like a 
bird than a fish in the water, and had something the appearance 
of a lafif {Pterois volitans). 

Whilst gathering shells I was attacked by an eel, called the 
Anguille Morele. He was about three feet long, and when I 
struck at him he came directly towards me, biting at my boots. 
I beat him off and speared him, having provided myself with 
a weapon in case of an attack from the Tazarre {Sphyrcena sp.). 
This singular eel is banded black and white, edged with salmon 
colour, and has one round black spot on the white bands. It 
is a fierce voracious creature, bolder than a snake, and in his 
rage he runs his head out of the water like one. The bite of 
this eel is venomous, I am told, but I have not heard of any 
accidents from it. 

* The Antkisteria ciliaia, and Avdropoqon lanceolatus. 



Ch. XXII.] A NIGHTS LODGING. 287 

When we reached the Point aux Caves, we found our two 
men, Jumna and Baboo, with the carrioles, complaining bitterly 
of the hard time they had had to get there. The road, I know, 
was almost impassable for vehicles. Jumna said it was ' a 
thief's road, and needed gold to pass over it.' 

We pitched our tent on the bluff, and not twenty yards from 
us 

The breaking waves dashed high 
On the stern and rock-bound shore. 

When all was arranged, we sent cur men to the nearest vil- 
lage to buy some rice and fowls for our dinner. 

While they were gone I prepared a line and hook, baited it 
with a mussel, and threw it in the surf, and very soon caught 
enough fish for a meal, of a species of Vielle {Serranus). We 
soon prepared them, and very nice they were, and we had made 
quite a meal before the men returned. It was late ere they 
made their appearance, telling long tales of the misery they 
had had in their fowl search. 

Towards nine we all turned in, well tired, and were soon 
asleep ; but our slumbers were destined to be broken, for we 
had enemies on all sides. Eats swarmed, and the next morning 
we found the rock alive with them. A good plunge in the sea 
refreshed us after our disturbed night, and we enjoyed our 
coffee on the rocks, watching the fishing-boats drifting past. 

As the name of this place imports, there is a large cavern, 
which can be entered on foot at low water ; but it being then 
high tide, we were obliged to take a small boat. We found a 
number of the edible swallows'-nests and their eggs (the Collo- 
callia Francica). I was soon satisfied this was only an entrance 
to the caverns running up to Petite Riviere. I had visited 
them once before and knew their locality, so proposed to my 
friends to proceed thither after breakfast. We put some lunch 
in our vasculums, and set off through a wild uncultivated tract, 
with here and there a few scraggy Bois noir-trees. We reached 
a Chinaman's shop, and provided ourselves with candles, and 
went on to the entrance of the cave, which is close to the rail- 
way station. The position is marked by clumps of aloes which 
grow directly over it. 

Large loose rocks and stones lie all round the entrance to 
this cavern, which is of very remarkable formation. Creepers 
and ferns cover the interstices of the rocks, particularly the 



288 A CURIOUS CAVE. [Ch. XXII. 

delicate plant the Amourette {Quamoclit pinnatum), with its 
bright scarlet stars. 

Pretty little lizards {Platydactylus cepedianus) flit about 
in all directions, and soon after we entered the first cave we 
saw innumerable eggs of this lively animal in groups of threes ; 
but it was difficult to detach them frona the rocks on account 
of their fragility. 

Cave No. 1 is about thirty feet wide and twenty feet high, 
and visitors' names were carved all over it. Eude walking-sticks 
were lying on the ground, left by former explorers, of which 
we availed ourselves. We each lit a candle and proceeded to 
examine this cave. 

The bottom is of fine earth, but hard, smooth, and dry as a 
macadamised road, and there is no perceptible dampness on 
the sides. It is of an elliptical form, and has at first sight the 
appearance of being the work of man. Numerous cracks and 
fissures are visible. Small incrustations in the form of icicles 
cover the vault, and fall and crumble at the touch. They are 
composed of degraded rock and oxyde of iron, and formed by 
the water percolating through the porous formation overhead. 

On each side of this cavern, more perceptibly at the entrance, 
there is a series of mouldings about two feet from the bottom, 
which extends its entire length. The roundings and polish of 
surface of these headings were probably formed by the water 
being charged with carbonic acid gas, which is frequently dis- 
engaged through fissures in the earth, particularly after earth- 
quakes or great volcanic eruptions. 

We explored cave after cave till we came to an aperture so 
narrow that we had to pass on -our hands and knees, and there we 
stopped ; but I had seen enough to convince me that, though 
now blocked up, they once extended to the one that has its 
outlet at the Point aux Caves. 

There is a perceptible slope downwards nearly the whole 
length of the caverns. We did not find any inconvenience 
from the heat mentioned by former explorers, though we re- 
mained in one of the inner chambers nearly two hours. 

For the dimensions of the difi"erent divisions I will give an 
extract from Baron Grrant's work, which on this point I find 
more accurate than some others I have seen : — ' The second 
vault turns NE. quarter E., is 17 feet high and 21 feet broad, 



Ch. XXII.] CURIOUS PLANT. 289 

110 long, ground dry, with a kind of causeway 2-| feet high. 
The third vault turns ENE. at one end, is only 4 feet high, 
but rises to 12 feet; it is 24 feet broad by 250 long ; ground 
moist and damp, and contains small petrifactions. The fourth, 
18 feet high, 27 broad, and 350 long ; parapets on the sides. 
The fifth is 8 feet high, 18 broad, and 230 long; runs NW. 
The sixth, 10 feet high, 20 broad, and 90 long. The seventh 
runs W., 10 feet high, 16 broad, and 220 long. The eighth 
runs WSW., 16 feet high, 18 broad, and 90 long. The ninth 
runs SW., 7 feet high, 30 broad, and 170 long. The tenth, 
12 feet high, 18 broad, and 96 long, runs NW. : part of 
this vault has to be crawled through. The eleventh, 2 feet 
high, 10 broad, 36 long: ground moist and vault in 
ruins.' 

We found the curious plant that Baron Grant mentions ' as 
a singular plant full of milky juice, root thick as a finger, and 
ten feet long, without branches.' 

There is no appearance of leaf or bud on it, the extremities 
are entire, and it is not uncommonly found in such places.^ 

As we returned to the mouth of the cavern, my impression 
was that this entrance had been formed by the falling in of 
part of the vaulted roof, as the large detached rocks proved 
In all probability an opening could be found to a much larger 
cavern directly opposite, this one lying in a SE. direction, and 
would be found to ramify with others extending over the whole 
island. I examined about 1,000 feet beyond the caves by re- 
moving the soil and tapping the rock with an iron crow-bar, 
and could follow what I conceive to be the continuation of 
them by the hollow sound produced. It appears to me there 
is reason to believe that this was, ages ago, the course of a sub- 
terranean river. We know for a fact that during earthquakes 
rivers as well as lakes disappear under ground, sometimes 
continuously, the water flowing through internal cracks, similar 
to those produced on the surface, which form canals for its 
passage. 

This phenomenon is sometimes coincident with the appear- 

' These plants are quite common in the interior of caverns in Virginia, and one 
of a different species I found, some years ago, whilst on an exploring expedition 
through the great Croton Aqueduct, New York. 



290 SUBTERRANEAN STREAMS. [Ch. XXII. 

ance of some abundant spring in a more or less distant place ; 
but it often happens also that the water nowhere re-appears, 
and we must conclude it runs directly to the sea. This is 
not at all improbable in this case, when we remember the 
convulsions the whole island has undergone. Some river may 
have been swallowed up by the earth, after a superficial course 
of more or less extent, which forced its way through a subter- 
ranean canal, till some fresh upheaval turned aside its course, 
leaving the now empty caverns. 

We have proofs of one subterranean river which makes its 
appearance on the south-west coast, where a considerable body of 
fresh water is forced up through the salt water that washes the 
shore at Savane. There is also one on the property of M. 
Ducasse, where there are two remarkable caves, not far from these 
mentioned above. I have not seen them, but will give a slight 
description of them, as I have lieard it. One of them is still 
traversed by a subterraneous stream. 

The other has two large dry cli ambers, one nearly fifty feet 
square, where it was said the festive board was often spread by 
its former hospitable proprietor. Such scenes have long passed 
away, and it now contains the tomb of the once generous 
Amphitryon. This tomb is of massive masonry, similar to an 
altar, on which, on the anniversary of his death, the friends and 
relatives place flowers and lighted candles, and pray for the 
repose of his soul. After passing this large cave, it is not 
possible to penetrate for more than thirty or forty feet. I do 
not doubt that all these caverns were formerly part of a con- 
tinuous chain, extending at least through this whole district. 

The railway crosses one part of these caverns, and as we left 
them we stopped at the station of Petite Eiviere for a rest. 
Master and men expressed their surprise that we should have 
ventured so far into the ' womb of the earth,' as they termed it. 
Nothing would have induced them to face its dangers. Strange 
noises were heard there at night, and they were sure it was the 
abode of evil spirits. One of the Malabars at the depot had 
beheld dread things only a week before. A tall pale woman, 
dressed in white, was seen, with two villanous-looking men 
following her with axes in their hands, and calling out ' La mort, 
la mort, la mort aux blancs ! ' Oftentimes music was heard, 
to which they listened for hours ; and this was supposed to be 



Ch. XXII.] POINT AUX CAVES. 291 

the echo of the military band at Bourbon, as it was well known 
the cavern passed all the way under the sea to that island ! I 
did not hear, however, of any one who had explored so far. All 
sorts of stories were told us, to which of course we listened with 
beconaing gravity. 

We diverged from the path we had traversed in the morn- 
ing, but found the soil in this neighbourhood very poor and 
rocky, covered with small stunted trees, low bush, and tangled 
creepers, difficult to walk through. There are many sugar 
plantations about this district ; but from the constant droughts 
and scarcity of water, a man must have great courage to under- 
take anything so arduous as sugar culture must be linder the 
circumstances. 

As we approached Point aux Caves, we started several hares. 
One was wounded by the lieutenant and secured by the doctor. 
We also saw a few quails and partridges, some of which we 
bagged, but they were troublesome shooting. 

Next morning, long before the sun gave the least indication 
of his coming to light us poor mortals on our way, the lieutenant 
was stirring in true military style, and of course there was no 
longer sleep for us ; so, after packing everything in its proper 
place, the men were sent on with orders to meet us halfway 
between Flicq-en-Flacq and Tamarind Bay. A strong cup of 
Mauritius coffee — which, by the way, let me say, is delicious 
(a present to us for our journey) — was soon ready; and it is 
very strange to me that more planters do not cultivate it 
extensively, for in the greater part of the island it grows well 
and bears prolifically. Enough could easily be grown for home 
consumption, if not for exportation. We lit our pipes, and 
strolled along the sands till we came to a favourable spot for a 
plunge, and afterwards set to work to look for curiosities. Alse 
were abundant, and I found some fine specimens of the Ceramiwm 
rubrum and Pavonia padina. We hailed a pirogue to 
take us to the reefs, to collect shells and corals. As we glided 
over the clear waters, the rich beds of many-coloured madrepores, 
echinoides, &c., formed a sight worth a good deal of trouble to 
obtain. It looked like a parterre adorned with the richest 
flowers ; but unfortunately there are so many laffs and sharp 
poisonous-spined fish lurking in every patch of sea-weed that the 



292 FISHING A LA PATATRAND. [Ch. XXII. 

greatest caution is necessary before grasping the lovely treasures 
of ocean. 

Here is another old French battery, some of the guns still 
lying about half-buried in the sand. The further I travel in the 
Island, the more I am astonished at the ease with which it was 
conquered by the British — forts at every coin of vantage, men 
enough to man them, the prestige of the impregnability of 
the place in their favour, and hatred to the English supposed 
to inflame every breast, all make the nearly bloodless victory 
the more marvellous. 

The shores are everywhere lined with the Ipomcea maritima 
and a pretty large-flowered vetch, which with their bright green 
leaves and delicate flowers refresh the eye from the scorching 
glare of the sun on the beach. The elastic tendrils of the first- 
named plant are woven into a sort of net by the fishermen. 
This is, however, forbidden by law ; yet, wherever it can be done 
clandestinely, it is practised. It is called fishing a la Patatrand^ 
short for Patate a Durand, the Creole name for the plant. 
This liane is stout and tough, and they knot the long branches 
together, which when cleverly done makes a net that sweeps in 
fish of all sizes, even to the smallest fry. 

From Petite Eiviere the shore is rocky and difficult to pass 
over, and as it approaches the Eiver Belle Isle it is bold and 
steep. We forded this river, and at its mouth we found some 
curious plants, two species of the Bostrychia, and a few fine 
cunes and other shells. We soon got into the plains of St. 
Pierre. This large tract of country is almost free from rocks, 
and possesses a very fair soil that could easily be cultivated, 
and streams run through it which would serve for irrigation. It 
appears to me cotton, maize, indigo, fruits, and vegetables would 
grow well there, and yet how much of it lies desert, when 
hundreds are all but starving. Nearly the whole plain is 
covered with long grass with sharp-spiked seeds, and' different 
species of burs, which were so troublesome that we were 
obliged to return to the shore route. The wild jessamine 
{Jasminum Mauritianum) ranks over every shrub, giving 
out a soft perfume. 

Soon after crossing the Riviere des Gralets we found our men 
with the baggage. They were busy bathing the ponies as we 
got up to them ; and one, a spirited little piebald, got away, and 



Ch. XXII.] A PLEASANT DINNER, 293 

off he set, prancing and bounding with delight over the plain, 
which formed a fine natural race-course. 

He gave them a good deal of trouble before he allowed him- 
self to be caught. Certainly no ponies in the world can beat 
these little fellows. Small and slight, active as a deer, scantily 
fed, and hardly worked, they will go through an amount of 
toil in this hot climate which would soon kill a strong English 
horse. Few are bred here ; they are imported from Timor, 
Penang, and other Indian islands. The Arab ports on the Ked 
Sea, the Cape, and Australia send also a great number of ponies 
and horses to the Mauritius yearly. Many Breton and Norman 
horses are used too, but few English, as they do not thrive 
well. 

We pitched our tent near the sea, close to the Wolmar estate. 
Baboo and Jumna had brought fowls, rice, and all indispensables 
for curries and chutneys, and very soon such a dish of both was 
set before us as an Indian alone could concoct. We had had a 
hard day's walking, and enjoyed our dinner as only hungry 
travellers do. Very few dining-rooms can boast of such a view 
as we had before us. The Corps de Garde and Bamboo Moun- 
tain lay in the distance, and the Eempart Mountain, Trois 
Mamelles, and the long range terminating in the bleak cliffs of 
the Morne, were all visible. The oblique rays of the setting sun 
partially lighted up their steep sides ; the heavy shadows were 
gathering slowly along the valleys, and here and there a clump 
of tall cocoa-nut trees or bamboos would stand out clear and 
distinct against the brilliant sky ; and upon everything near 
lay the rich indefinable colour that frequently overspreads the 
earth at sunset. 

It was a contest with us between eyes and mouth, and I fear 
that the savoury dishes of Messrs. Jumna and Baboo gave the 
victory to the latter for some time ; but, the inner man once 
satisfied, we lay and gazed in silent admiration on the landscape 
nature had drawn for our benefit for the time being. 

The reefs lie about a mile from the shore at this point, and 
at low water are quite bare. We lost no opportunity of adding 
to our collection from the tide-pools, but we had to be very 
cautious, as both the Anguille Patna and Morele abound there. 
On all my excursions to the reefs I carried with me a good-sized 
harpoon, mounted on a pole eight feet long, a precaution of which 



294 A FIGHTING FISH. [Ch. XXII. 

I found the advantage at this place. On the following day 
I was wading off to the reef in elegant costume — pants tucked 
up into a high pair of thick boots, an old flannel shirt and 
slouched hat, a bag over my shoulders for shells, in good fight- 
ing trim — when I was attacked by a tazarre, a fish something 
like a fresh- water pike. 

The brute was a good-sized one, and came right at me like a 
bulldog. I had seen him a minute before, and so was ready 
for him, and planted my harpoon directly in his side ; but he 
got away and made a second charge. 

This time he was struck in the head, and I held him fast, 
though it taxed my strength. I did not well know what to do 
with him, as he wriggled on my weapon, so hailed a pirogue 
with two men in it. They said I had done well to capture it, 
as it was not easy to spear such a large one. 

We agreed to make tracks for the Eempart Eiver, and 
attempt the ascent of the Trois Mamelles. On our route we 
had to pass through a Malabar camp ; and such a howling and 
yelling of cur dogs I never heard, and we all wished the Port 
Louis dog-killing laws were in force here before we got through. 

From the bridge that spanned the Eempart Eiver one of the 
prettiest views in the island is obtained. Looking up the 
stream, numerous cascades are seen as it winds through the 
ravine ; on its banks are the graceful bamboos waving in the 
breeze that swept down the river, and the singular rugged 
peaks of the Trois Mamelles stood out clearly defined against 
the bright blue sky. This spot took my fancy so much that I 
obtained one of my best photographs here. We breakfasted on 
the banks of the river, in a spot covered with ferns, and close to 
a bed of deliciously fresh yoimg water-cresses. 

We crossed the valley, which is encumbered with rocks, till 
we reached the foot of the mountain, where we found a man 
cutting wood. He offered to guide us up, but declared it was 
impossible to reach the summit. We accepted his services, and 
found it pretty sharp climbing, even dangerous in some places. 
We ascended a narrow path, through thick underwood and 
loose stones and rocks, till we were a thousand feet above the 
level of the sea. Here we halted, and had a clear view over the 
plains of St. Pierre, with the Black Eiver Mountains in the 
distance, and the sharp peaks of the Chamarel, which, with the 



Ch. XXII.] TROIS MAMELLES, 295 

exception of the Piton de la Petite Eiviere Noire, are the 
highest in the island, being 2,902 feet in height. 

The highest peak of the Trois Mamelles is 340 feet, and the 
three are almost bare of vegetation to their summits, with the 
exception of the Orchilla plant, which covered them, and which 
if carefully gathered might be made a profitable article ot 
commerce from the valuable dye it yields, and a few ferns. In 
the clefts of the rocks grow the Pterispedata and Radiata, a 
Nephrodium, and two Aspidiacese. 

Towards the base ranked the Cascavelle {Crotalaria retusa), 
the Dichondrarepens^ and the Taberncemontana parvijiora. 

From the rugged barrenness of this triple-headed mountain a 
geologist has little difficulty in tracing the volcanic action once 
at work on it. These rocks, which are basaltic, rise almost 
perpendicularly, and have the appearance of being cut straight 
down from the summit to the shoulder, the highest point we 
could attain. Seen from a distance they look like the ruins of 
some giant's stronghold. As I lay resting, I pictured to myself 
the time when the plain at the base of the inner side of this 
mountain was a lake of liquid fire surging up against the solid 
barrier, and in process of time thinning the mighty wall, aided 
from without by the action of the elements. As the seething 
mass cooled down and contraction ensued, probably the first 
fissures were made in the then thin crust. Fresh eruptions sent 
a boiling torrent of lava through the openings, forcing its way 
to the sea. Every succeeding hurricane hurled down masses of 
disintegrated rocks, and piled them in the fantastic heaps 
where they now lie. The powerful forces of light, air, and 
water have been silently at work through countless centuries, 
gradually wearing away the rough edges of the fissures, and 
degrading fresh material that appears waiting the slightest 
touch to fall on the audacious intruder in these solitudes. 

The Rempart River takes its rise in one of the mountains of 
which range the Trois Mamelles form a part. The fountain- 
head falls into a small basin, forming a cascade, and then flows 
on through the underwood till it reaches what was formerly a 
forest, but now the trees are sparse and stunted. After our 
descent from the Trois Mamelles, we amused ourselves catching 
prawns {Palcemon c(wcinus), which abound in this river. They 
are here called ' Camerons;' that, I suspect, is the old Portuguese 



296 PRAWN FISHING. [Ch. XXII. 

name for them. A noose is made of strong thread or split 
bamboo, and suspended over their hiding-places, and a bait (a 
bit of thread is the best thing) is put just in front of the 
snare. As soon as the prawn takes the bait the noose is drawn 
tightly over his body and he is secured. The large ones show 
fight, and strike so sharply with their tails as to draw blood if 
not carefully handled. The lieutenant, who had never seen 
them in their watery element before, enjoyed the sport, and was 
the first to take a fine large one. He held it up exultingiy to 
the doctor and myself, saying, ' Look there, boys; come here and 
take a lesson how to catch prawns ; it takes this individual to 
do it artistically,' &c. &c. We stood his chaffing quietly, 
waiting to see him take the prawn off the noose, when all at 
once the animal nipped him so severely that he let it drop into 
the water again, with an expletive more forcible than polite. 
It was our turn to laugh now, and we didn't spare our friend. 
This fresh-water prawn is indigenous to the island, and there 
is another species caught in the sea, but not so fine. It is also 
a native of the Seychelles. 

Whilst busily engaged with our prawns, of which we snared 
enough for our supper, heavy clouds gathered round the summits 
of the mountains, and hid them from our view, and we had but 
just time to reach our tent when the rain came pattering down. 
After our day's climbing, fresh prawns and water-cress were 
not to be despised whilst waiting for Jumna's supper ; and we 
didn't forget to toast the lieutenant's expertness in catching 
prawns. Thanks to our double tent, we could afford to laugh 
at the rain ; and next morning we broke up our camp, and moved 
along the coast towards Tamarind Bay. The shore here is flat, 
and the reefs in some places run two miles out from it. We 
sent on our people to the left bank of the Tamarind Eiver, near 
the bridge. 

This is a fine bay, in some places very deep. We hired a 
pirogue at the lime-kilns, and embarked from a small jetty 
which ran out into the sea. The waves were breaking over the 
reef, and it wanted considerable skill to guide so ticklish a craft 
through them. Our object was to fish for Olives, which are 
so plentiful, and of great beauty and variety on the Mauritius 
reefs. We baited about five hundred feet of lines, and after a 
great deal of patience got a splendid haul. It is singular that 



Ch. XXI I.] RARE LIZARD. 297 

though this animal is so abundant, it is rarely that the dead 
shells are found on the shore. 

At the jetty I observed a curious black lizard, very active, 
about five inches in length, that seemed to feed on something 
in the water. It was very shy, and would hide below the rocks 
as I approached it. It appeared partly amphibious, and would 
dart into the waves, seize its prey, and return to its hole. I tried 
in vain to capture one. I was at first inclined to believe it 
was a triton, but the form of the tail did not warrant the conclu- 
sion, as it was very thick, and terminated in a point, and not 
formed for swimming. Eound the whole of Tamarind Bay 
grow patches of the bright yellow-flowered creeper, the Cas- 
sythafiliformis, with an abundance of low shrubs and plants, 
but none needing special mention. On the right of the bay, 
just at the foot of the Tamarind Mountain, stands a small vil- 
lage principally occupied by fishermen. A brisk trade in fish 
is at present carried on, as the men can now take their produce 
by rail to the inland villages twice a day. 

We passed the bay, and kept up the river, which was par- 
tially dry, and in many places encumbered with groups of boul- 
ders, and everywhere showed a rocky bed. The banks were 
covered with ferns, a species of Nen^^phar and bright Amourette, 
while thousands of plants of the wild raspberry (Rubus ccesius)^ 
then in flower, filled the interstices between the rocks. Most 
deceptive of fruits ! The leaf is totally different from the Euro- 
pean species, and the plant only grows about two or three feet 
high, but the berry exactly resembles it, with only one exception. 
Hot and tired, you pluck a bunch, anticipating the delicious 
flavour of those of our northern climes, when you fi^d, to your 
great disappointment, that it is almost tasteless. 

We arrived at the bridge by the afternoon, which is placed 
in as romantic a spot as the one at Eempart River. 

After dinner we found, to our annoyance, that we were not 
the only occupants of our tent. We killed two small scorpions 
without much trouble, but the rats were not so easily disposed 
of. First they ate up my arsenical soap ; and though it grati- 
fied me to know it would be their last meal, having made it 
doubly strong on account of the insect plagues here, still I did 
not feel that indemnified me for its loss. Whilst we slept they 
devoured a great part of a fine boiled ham, and spoilt the rest. 



298 BROKEN SLUMBERS. [Ch. XXII. 

I was awakened by some one calling out, ' Do the rats trouble 
you ? ' I answered ' No ; ' when the lieutenant said, ' I have 
started two, and shall strike a light ; ' and a pretty scene we had 
of it when we were illuminated. Our tent had been pitched on 
what I suppose must have been the burrow of a family of Ten- 
recs {Centetes escaudatus). The doctor killed one with the 
blow of a large knife ; and the servants being called, we captured 
several, which grunted and squeaked like so many little pigs, 
and are said to be very good eating. They breed most proli- 
fically, as each litter has from sixteen to twenty-five young 
ones ; so I presume we had disturbed a mother and- her babies. 

Even the lieutenant's indomitable early rising was put a 
stop to for once, after our sleepless night. Baboo and Jumna 
had the best of it, as they had joined the two carrioles, sup- 
porting the shafts with their seats, and thus formed a capital 
bed under the covered tops. The old Creole who had guided 
us up the Trois Mamelles came in the night, and not daring to 
disturb us, stretched himself under the carrioles, and had a 
sound nap too. 

As soon as we could rouse ourselves, and had had the unfailing 
pipe and coffee, we packed up eatables for twelve hours at least, 
making up our minds to a hard day's work. We started up the 
bed of the river, jumping from rock to rock till we came to 
where the water was barely ankle deep. But the lieutenant 
found it too rough for him, and turned back. When he was 
gone, the doctor and myself examined the pools in the river, 
and found some small perch, camerons, &c. ; also three kinds of 
shells, the same as those in the bed of Grrand Eiver, the usual 
Conferva, two species of Chara, Thydrodicton, Utricularia, &c. 
The banks are here steep and high, and looked like impassable 
barriers ; but our guide persisted in going on, as he said he 
knew the place well. We ascended the bank, grasping at old 
roots and stumps, anything to help us up, till we arrived safely 
at the table-land above. 

We were now about two miles from the Tamarind Falls, too 
late to return, so we looked out for a shelter for the night, and 
as the sun was rapidly sinking we had to make the most of our 
time. The old Creole soon found us an unoccupied shanty, 
rough enough to be sure, but better than the open air. 
We cleaned it out, and covering the interior with boughs and 



Ch. XXII.] TAMARIND FALLS. 299 

bushes, soon made it comfortable, and then dispatched Jumna 
and the guide for bread and wine to a small village near. The 
doctor and myself meanwhile devoured the remnants of our 
tiffin, which were very slight, our appetite in the day having 
been prodigious. However, a pipe solaced us till the man re- 
turned with indifferent bread and worse wine, and some dried 
fish called ' Bombay Ducks ' (Saurus), which they grilled ; and 
hunger enabled us to make a hearty meal, and get a sound 
sleep on our cut bushes. 

Out in the early morning, inhaling the sharp breeze, and 
eager to pay our visit to the far-famed Tamarind Falls. The 
ravine is almost impassable, as the bank rises abruptly from the 
river, which is here very deep ; but we found a path just above 
the left bank, going through the estate of ' Mendrain. ' From 
our position the Corps de Grarde,Trois Mamelles, Mount Orey,and 
others, extending as far as the Peter Both, appeared as one vast 
continuous chain, and the intervening country was green with 
canes in every stage of growth. After working our way up to 
a good distance, we came to a spot called Point Flinders, 
where the bushes have been cut away to give a good view of 
the Falls. 

This estate was formerly owned by a Mr. De Chazal, and here 
he entertained the celebrated navigator Captain Flinders, who 
had been taken prisoner by the French, and kept on parole. A 
small kiosque was erected for him on this romantic spot, for 
here he spent much of his time, and it has ever since retained 
his name Then it was covered with forest ; now the forest is 
non est, and canes are ; and what was once a rendezvous for 
artists and tourists is fast losing its celebrity. 

The adventures of Captain Flinders were of so extraordinary 
a nature that I give a brief outline of them : — 

Captain Matthew Flinders was appointed, in 1801, by the 
British Government, as commander of the ' Investigator,' to visit 
New Holland, or the Grreat South Land — to clear up all doubts as 
to the unity of this great region, open up new ports for seamen, 
and for the advancement of natm^al knowledge in various 
branches — besides laying down charts of the neighbouring seas, 
for the benefit of geography and navigation. In 1 803 the ' In- 
vestigator ' was so badly injured among the reefs near Torres 
Straits that she was condemned. He then tried to finish his 



300 CAPTAIN FLINDERS. [Ch. XXII. 

survey with the ' Porpoise,' ' Cato,' and ' Bridgewater.' The 
two former were, however, wrecked at a place named ' Wreck 
Reef,'inlat. 23° 22', long. 155° 34', in August of the same year. 
' The Bridgewater,' afraid of sharing the same fate, steered 
away ; and, instead of remaining to see if there were any sur- 
vivors of the catastrophe, her captain sailed to India, spread- 
ing the report everywhere that both vessels were entirely lost, 
with all on board. Strange to say, this ship in her next voyage 
was wrecked or sunk, and never heard of after — a fitting retri- 
bution, if cowardice or ill-feeling had prevented her captain 
from assisting his wrecked comrades. 

Taking a small crew in one of the six-oared cutters, and leaving 
the rest in charge of Lieutenants Fowler and Flinders, Captain 
Flinders set out to make his way to Port Jackson for help. 
The men left behind were set to work to build two decked boats, 
in case that no tidings of the captain and his crew 'should 
arrive. They had to voyage in an open boat 250 leagues, along 
a strange coast inhabited by ferocious savages, a greater part of 
the way ; but they succeeded in reaching Sydney in eleven days. 
The ' Eolla' was at once fitted out by the Governor, and sent to 
the relief of the men at Wreck Reef, who had been fortunate 
enough to save a good deal of property from the two vessels. 

The schooner ' Cumberland,' a small Grravesend passage-boat 
of only twenty-nine tons, was given to Captain Flinders, who 
was anxious to make his way quickly to England to get further 
help to finish his work, as well as to contradict the reports of 
his death. The small size of the vessel made it necessary to 
stop at every convenient port ; so Captain Flinders proposed 
Coepang Bay in Timor, Mauritius, Cape of Grood Hope, St. He- 
lena, and some of the western isles. Grovernor King did not 
wish him to go to Mauritius, as he did not care to encourage 
communication between French colonies and Port Jackson. The 
master, however, was left to his own judgment, and two letters 
were given him for the Grovernor of Mauritius, in case of need. 
When near the island, he found his boat requiring repairs and 
stores, so much so that he was afraid of risking a longer voyage ; 
and, ignorant of the fact that war had broken out between 
Great Britain and France, he steered direct for Mauritius, and 
made the land at Bale du Cap. 

He did not speak French, but had a passport formerly given 



Ch. XXIL] his captivity. joi 

him in that language, but unfortunately made out for the ' In- 
vestigator.' However, he presented it with the letters for the 
Grovernor, and told his tale of the daring feat he had accom- 
plished. As soon as these papers were forwarded to Grovernor- 
Greneral De Caen, and he saw a passport not made out for the 
' Cumberland,' he refused to believe his story, called him an im- 
postor, and seized the boat, putting Flinders in temporary con- 
finement, and taking away from him all his papers, charts, log 
and journal, pretending that many passages in the latter proved 
him to be a spy. Many liritish vessels at this time were seized 
by the French in the Indian Ocean, and the prisoners taken 
were kept in a place somewhere at the Jardin Despeaux, Plaine 
Verte, and Captain Flinders was confined with them. 

Rewrote letter upon letter of remonstrance to De Caen, but 
received only abuse in reply. His sword, and even his spy-glass, 
were taken from him. Finding that it was hopeless to expect 
release, he begged to have his charts and books returned, that 
he might complete his work so far, while it was still fresh in 
his memory. The charts, after much delay, were sent to him, 
but the books denied. 

To atone as far as possible for De Caen's severity, he was 
treated with the greatest kindness and sympathy by many French 
gentlemen ; and whenever any officer had to bring any harsh 
message, it was done with perfect courtesy, and apologetically, 
as everyone pitied his hard case. After two years spent in Port 
Louis, as his health suffered much, he was allowed a residence at 
Vacoa, called the Refuge — on parole. 

It appears that in 1804 a decree had been passed in Paris ' to 
approve the conduct of Greneral De Caen, but froin a pure sen- 
timent of generosity to grant Captain Flinders liberty and 
the restoration of the " Cumberland.''^ ' This decision laid over 
till 1806 for the approval of the Emperor, but it was not till 
1807 that it arrived in Mauritius, though it is said De Caen 
knew of it on its first passing. 

Captain Flinders was at last allowed to return to Port Louis. 
His books, sword, and spy-glass were returned ; but no entreaties 
could procure his despatches, log-book, and the third volume of 
his journal, though many gentlemen tried to intercede with De 
Caen for them. The ' Cumberland ' was not given up to him, 
and every possible hindrance was tlirown in the way of his 



302 CASCADES, [Ch. XXII. 

leaving. It is supposed he was still detained on account of the 
war between England and France ; and after the most vexatious 
harassings, it was not till March 1810 that the welcome news 
was brought to him that he was to sail in the cartel ' Harriet,' 
on condition that he would engage not to serve against France 
during the war. The ' Harriet,' however, was not forthcoming, 
and leave was granted him to proceed to the Cape in the sloop 
of war ' Otter," in June. He had thus endured a captivity of six 
years, five months, and twenty-seven days — a lasting disgrace 
to the memory of De Caen, and which caused the greatest dis- 
satisfaction amongst the people generally. He never succeeded 
in recovering either the log or the third volume of his journal. 
A most interesting account was written by Captain Flinders of 
his work and troubles at New Holland, his captivity in Mau- 
ritius, and his homeward voyage, and it is from these volumes 
that I have gleaned the above account of this celebrated man. 

The Tamarind Falls are seven in number, and form a series 
of cascades of great beauty, and as they descend over the rocks 
at different heights, the various sounds blend with a strange 
harmony to our ears. One part of the P^alls is formed by a break 
in the Tamarind Eiver, and the others by streams that flow into 
it, and the united height of the whole seven is over 300 feet. 

Fretted with sands and rocks, and swept by the winds from the mountain, 
Numberless torrents with ceaseless sound descend to the ocean. 
Like the great chords of a harp in loud and solemn vibration. 

The Falls were to our left, and before us rose a wall of rock. 
Its steep sides were partly bare of vegetation, with scattered 
tufts of verdure sown by the winds or birds ; but its summit 
was covered with a dense belt of old trees, the many blasted 
heads and withered trunks bearing witness to their struggles 
with the elements. In the deep ravine below us lay the 
river, which, after receiving the turbulent waters of the cascade, 
flows silently on to the ocean. To the right stood out a gigantic 
beetling crag, flinging its broad black shadow right across the 
ravine, and forming a singular gorge with the opposite moun- 
tains. Through the opening is obtained a lovely picture, 
looking brighter and sunnier for the dark frowning hills we 
saw it through — a glimpse of the brilliant green waters of the 
ocean, as they touch a strip of dazzling coral sand, and then 



Ch. XXII.] BLACK RIVER. 303 

gradually change to the deepest blue in the distance; the 
river joining the sea ; a bridge ; a few vacoas — things so slight 
in themselves, yet when combined as they are there, all made 
up a scene that held us entranced. On whichever side we 
looked was some beauty, each perfect in its kind, each different, 
which, with the elastic purity of the atmosphere, so acted on 
our senses, that I know not how long we should have remained 
if the demon of hunger, which the loveliest of scenery cannot 
exorcise, had not made his appearance ; and with a sigh we 
rose, for we had a long v^ay to go back to our quarters. 

We made our way as well as we could over the rocks in the 
river, but were terribly fatigued on our arrival, and found 
the lieutenant somewhat alarmed at our long absence. Our 
description of the ramble made him regret he had not shared 
it, though he laughed at our enthusiasm about its beauty. 
Our next halting-place was to be the Black Eiver ; and thither 
we sent Jumna and Baboo, ourselves taking a less direct 
route. 

We crossed a spur of the Tamarind Mountain, and had a fine 
view of the Black Eiver valley, the craggy precipitous sides 
of the mountain, and the estate of Greneve ; while the peaks of 
the Chamarel loomed in the distance, brilliantly lit up by the 
sun, which is the first land made by mariners coming from 
Madagascar. 

We ascended to the Greneve sugar plantation, and examined 
the ruins of the fine mills, caused by the hurricane of 1868. 
This estate is nearly nine square miles in extent, and is about 
twenty-one miles distant from Port Louis. It has belonged to 
the same family for over half a century. It is the one men- 
tioned by Bernadin St.-Pierre, and, if I recollect rightly, it was 
from this place Paul and Virginia walked one fine morning 
before breakfast to their home on the Latanier Eiver, close to 
the city. I don't wonder at Paul having to carry her, unless 
the roads through the forests were different from their present 
state. 

Deer and monkeys abound here, and are said to be very 
troublesome, though the greatest plagues are the wild hogs, 
which do much mischief to the plantations. The military post 
of Black Eiver is on this estate. In former times this was con- 
sidered one of the most important posts in the island, and its 



304 



THE MORNE, 



[Ch. XXII. 



approach was strongly guarded. On the east was the batter}^ 
of Lapreneuse, of six guns ; about 600 3^ards farther back is 
another of these guns ; a battery of two more flanked the canton- 
ment, and on the opposite side of the anchorage was the La 
Harmoine battery, mounting twelve guns. Of all these formid- 
able defences the only remains are a few rusty cannon and a 
heap of ruins. The country hereabouts is highly cultivated 
with fine cane crops, and the road passes along an avenue of 
large tamarind-trees, many of which were uprooted, and most 
of them severely injured, by the cyclone. 




THE MORNE. 



The road here winds round a small bay, and passes a plain 
covered with long grass, which, though troublesome, was a better 
path than the shore, which was very steep and rocky. The bold 
promontory of the Morne now rose before us in all its grandeur. 
The inner side, nearly perpendicular, is the only remaining wall 
seaward of a great crater, of which the Isle of Fourneaux, not 
far from the shore, once formed a part. 



Ch. XXII.] WILD TOBACCO. 305 

We had heard very much of the difficulty of ascending this 
solitary giant, but the trial looked so well worthy that we 
resolved to attempt it. Formerly, when densely wooded, it was 
considered one of the securest strongholds in the island, and 
was greatly resorted to by Maroons, who gave infinite trouble 
to the gendarmes before they could be dislodged. We got an 
old Creole, who lived near, to accompany us, and by his advice 
provided ourselves with ropes and hatchets to aid us in the 
ascent. We found the toil of climbing fully equal to anything 
we had heard of it. A greater part of the day was spent in our 
task. Sometimes our path lay through dense thickets and 
climbers intertwined in every conceivable form, and we were 
at times compelled to lay about us vigorously with our hatchets 
before we could pass. 

Here grow the pretty little Kane, the Glitoria Ternatea, the 
Cascavelle, and a species of Clematis ; but the latter is not 
so fragrant as the European. The wild tobacco (^Solanum 
auriculatum) flourished in the open spots, two species of 
Hibiscus, the Horonga Thoninia, and the common Mallow 
{Malva crispa), which is used here as elsewhere as an emollient. 
Sometimes, after an opening was made, we came suddenly on a 
perfectly perpendicular rock of fifteen or twenty feet, without 
foothold sufficient for a cat to scale. The only resource was 
attaching our good three-inch ropes to stones and flinging 
them up till they caught in the branches or roots above, and 
so hauling ourselves up. I believe the ascent of the Morne is 
quite equal in danger and fatigue to that of the Peter Both. 

Weary and exhausted, we reached the little plateau at the top, 
and were glad of the spring there, of which we had heard but 
feared might be a myth. 

As soon as we were sufficiently rested to appreciate our posi- 
tion, we felt that the spectacle from this giddy pinnacle was 
worth all the labour of mounting to it. 

The broad blue ocean bounded our view on one side, glittering 
in the brilliant rays of the descending sun. The singular 
triangular-shaped island of the Morne was visible, and the Cap 
de Brabant, the SW. point of Mauritius. The encircling chain 
of coral reefs could be distinctly traced by the line of foam as 
far as the eye could reach, indicating the breakers that form so 
dangerous a fringe to the greater part of this coast. The white 



3o6 FAHAME, [Ch. XXI I. 

sails of passing merchantmen could be seen, India-bound or 
making for the Island, and numberless fishing craft. The view- 
inland was, if possible, still more imposing. We could see the 
picturesque gorges of the Black Eiver Mountains — all below 
in the deepest shadow, in strange contrast to the highly 
illuminated verdure crowning every summit. Nearly the whole 
range is basaltic, the Morne also. As I looked down from its 
steep sides, the only remains of what was once the vast wall 
against which the sea broke in vain till the action of fire within 
assisted the work of the waves, I could not help imagining 
the grand and awful sight it must have been when the boiling- 
lava and the roaring waves met, when crag after crag went 
down, and contrasting it with its present peaceful aspect. 

The little plateau is sheltered on one side by an overhanging 
cliff, and is nearly covered with trees and bushes : these we cut 
and piled up, and, with our good baskets of provisions, made 
ourselves tolerably comfortable for the night. It was bad enough 
to climb, but worse to descend ; and we narrowly escaped coming 
to grief very often, there is so little surface soil ; the roots, 
having slight hold, frequently gave way with our ropes round 
them, and occasionally expedited our descent far from agreeably. 
However, we escaped with a few bruises. 

On this mountain also the Orchella plant grows, and a small 
tree of the Locust, family, the dry pods of which are sweet, and 
we ate of them freely. Vast numbers of the Samlongue 
{SyzygiuTYi Jainholanum) grow here and on the Black River 
chain, and their dark foliage gives a sombre character to the 
scene. In the moist forest-earth grows the celebrated Fahame 
{Angrcecwiu fragrans). According to Creole authorities, it 
contains within its slender fronds virtues to cure no end of 
diseases. Consumption itself must even yield to Fahame ! 
The aromatic principle has been extracted from this fern by a 
chemist here, and the faculty all appear to agree that it is a 
very useful therapeutic agent. 

Many fine indigenous trees grow in this locality of whose 
names and uses I am ignorant. I recognised only the MiTnusops 
Erythroxylon and the Callophyllum spectabile. As we W3nt 
down the valley of the Morne we came upon what had once 
been a sugar plantation ; but sugar-mill and houses were all 
going to decay, and the desolate grass-grown place told its 



Ch, XXI I.] SOLITUDE. 307 

own tale of ruin. This valley was once a very large crater, two 
or three miles in width, but the revolutions of ages have nearly 
filled it up with detached rocks and debris from the deep sides 
of the Morne and Black River Mountains. There is every reason 
to believe that after the subsidence of the great crater in the 
interior, and the large adventitious ones, many smaller ones 
opened, which were very active. We see this just beyond the 
valley of the Morne, where there is a small crater of compara- 
tively recent date. 

The road we passed over was built by the Government, and 
is called the Military Road. For some distan(;e it is ornamented 
with a hedge of Campeche on both sides. I wonder this shrub 
is not more used for this purpose, it grows so rapidly, and when 
cut looks well. We came out of this road into a grove of lofty 
Filaos ; and we could not help noticing the profound stillness of 
the place, save for the melancholy soughing of the wind through 
the trees, and an occasional mournful cry of a ring-dove. As 
we pushed on we came suddenly upon an old man hoeing a 
small patch of maize ; we saw no habitation, and from the curt 
replies we got to our questions as to our whereabouts, he 
seemed to think us intruders. 

We struck out along the shore, which for some distance is 
rocky, but at length gained the open beach, and soon found a 
pretty spot to pitch our tent on a little promontory. 

The spur of the mountains terminates here abruptly, the sides 
of which were covered with trees and shrubs — a wild-looking 
place. Under the craggy cliff two or three Creole fishermen 
live with their families in miserable thatched shanties. It was 
nearly dark before our tent was ready, and a steady rain came 
down that made us anxious about our men and horses. We 
offered to pay the Creoles to let them have an empty hut 
for the night, but they refused, as they said they did not want 
anything to do with 'les Anglais.' However, on Sumua and 
Baboo explaining that the horses belonged to them, they were 
immediately taken in and all comfortably provided for. Rats 
and Tenrecs disturbed our slumbers, and in addition we had the 
peculiar bat, called the 'Flying Fox ^ (^Pteropus edulis). It 
makes a barking noise similar to the yelp of a lap-dog. Near 
our quarters were a gr(,ve of aloes, of which this animal is very 
fond, on account of the honey its flowers contain, I suppose ; 

Y 



3o8 BAIE DU CAP. [Ch. XXII. 

it also eats the tender Badanier nut greedily, and when the 
Litchis are in season, they are so destructive that they will 
often strip a plantation in a night. 

We killed one for a specimen, which measured three feet four 
inches from tip to tip of the wings. 

Sleep being impossible, we all went out for a stroll on the 

beach. The wind was fresh from the SE. and the sea was 

breaking furiously over the reefs ; and as the foaming waters 

caught the glittering rays of the moon, they were lit up with a 

magic brilliancy — 

Making the restless plain 
As the vast shining floor of some dread fane, 
All paved with glass and fire. 

Soon after daylight we crossed a strip of beach, and emerged 
on a large grassy plain, on which grew numbers of the Veloutiers. 
Both kinds of the Veloutier flourish there, the Sccevola Konigii 
and the Tournefortia argentea ; and the liane Canavalia oh- 
tusifolia ranks over all the shrubs. A sort of wild Betel, the 
Ehretiapetiolaris, is also abundant. This plant grows on nearly 
the whole seaboard, and the fishermen make use of it as a 
remedy for the dangerous wounds made by the LafF. The 
leaves are macerated and made into poultices ; but if really a 
cure for the poison of the spines of this fish I cannot assert, 
though I have seen it assuage the pain considerably. The 
Tndigofera compressa is also wild in this neighbourhood, and 
does not alone possess its valuable dye, but is supposed to be a 
most efficacious medicine for asthmatical patients. 

This plain lay between a spur of the Black Eiver range and 
the sea, and extended as far as the Bale dn Cap, which runs up 
a good way into the land. As we neared the bay, we saw the 
wreck of a small schooner which had been forced over the reefs 
by the breakers. In spite of the violence of the waves where it 
lay, men were busy at work, stripping it of its gear and all 
available booty. The bay forming an impassable barrier to our 
carrioles, we got a pirogue to take them round the Cape to the 
other side of the mountain, which forms the last spur of the 
range, and stands close to the coast. The craft was, however, too 
small, and we were obliged to send our men round the bay 
and over the mountain to procure us a ship's yawl, which they 
told us was kept there. This held us all, and the carrioles too. 



Ch. XXII.] PYTHON CREEPER. 309 

KoLinding the Cape the wind blew very strong, and the current 
swept us back with such velocity that we came very near a 
capsize amongst the sharks and breakers, which made the 
bravest of us a little nervous. We were obliged to put back : 
and, crossing a sand-bar, ran right up to the head of the bay, 
and landed close to Mr. Strobe's house. 

This is a lonely quiet spot, and the dwelling is in the midst 
of a well-cultivated garden, with abundance of fruit-trees. We 
went up to see the giant creeper, which grows on his place, and 
of which I had heard so much as one of the curiosities of the 
Island. Mr. Strobe not only gave us a guide to it, but allowed 
us to take as much fruit as we wanted from his garden. We 
crossed the river over a little temporary bridge, though, for all 
the water in it then, we could have jumped over it. The banks, 
liowever, were thickly covered with luxuriant vegetation, and 
some distance up are several pretty little cascades tumbling- 
over the rocks into a small basin. Very near them at the foot 
of a hill is the gigantic Liane ; the only one now here, though 
formerly there was one at the Savane, but it is long since dead. 
It was imported from the Moluccas many years ago. This 
python of a creeper is about two feet in diameter at the collum, 
and some of the roots extend for 100 feet round. It runs up 
the steep side of the hill, and covers over an acre of ground. Its 
trunks and stems are fasciated and whorled. It bears a cluster 
of white pea-like flowers, and produces a seed pod, about two 
feet in length and over two inches broad, containing a large 
brown bean. It flowers in April and May, and its botanic name 
is the Entada Purscetha. It certainly is very curious, and it 
seems a wonder no one has thought of cultivating it elsewhere. 

After leaving Mr. Strobe's we went up the river, and pro- 
curing a guide, pushed on for the Chamarel Falls, which are at 
no great distance. They are situated on the boundary of Black 
Eiver and Savane, and are amongst the mountains of a branch 
line of the Savane chain. This cascade is formed by the 
Riviere du Cap rushing over a rocky ledge, sheer down a 
descent of three hundred and twenty feet. During heavy 
rains, when the river is swollen, the torrent, unbroken in its 
fall, thunders into the chasm below, and presents a scene that 
baffles description. In the dry season the foaming cataract 
gives place to a silvery stream ; and, as the eye follows it, one 



3IO THE FALLS, [Ch. XXII. 

has a more appreciative idea of the terrific depth of the abyss 
than when enveloped in clouds of spray. 

It mounts in spray to the skies, and thence again 
Returns in an unceasing shower, which round 
With its unemptied cloud of gentle rain 
Is an eternal April to the ground, 
Making it all one emerald. How profound 
The gulf, and how the giant element 
From rock to rock leaps, with delirious bound, 
Crushing the cliffs ! 

We returned slowly from the Falls, feasting our eyes on the 
surrounding scenery. It is beautiful now, but how much more 
so it must have been when the river flowed through a large 
grove of clove trees that once flourished there and perfumed 
the air with their fragfrance ! 

The whole country around was interesting also in a geologi- 
cal point of view. We constantly came upon Madrepores and 
other marine productions, some quite perfect, but varying 
greatly from those now found in the neighbouring seas, and 
proving the submergence of the whole tract. In many places 
we found the beds containing these deposits with a superposed 
stratum of lava on them ; thus showing their upheaval, and the 
subsequent overflow of the volcanoes then formed. These 
masses of coral extend from the base of the Tamarind Moun- 
tain in three distinct beds over three feet high. The lowest 
is divested of all traces of organisation, and so indm-ated that 
on being struck it gives out a metallic sound. 

The others still retain their organic structure, with, blocks 
of basalt imbedded in their substance. From the Isthmu*^ 
that connects the Morne with the main-land the ledge of 
coral is continued to the Baie du Cap, and is termed Point de 
Corail. 

The path back to the bay lay through the forest, a straggling, 
difficult road. Our men had gone round the mountain with 
the baggage, so we took a pirogue and pulled gently along the 
shore, to get a good view of the fine basaltic rock that juts 
out into the inner bay. It is of columnar basalt, and the 
long prisms are constantly becoming detached from the main 
body of the rock and falling into the waters below. We crossed 
the sand-bar which separates the inner from the outer bay, and 
sailed directly for a small opening at the side of the mountain. 



Ch. XXII.] SUGAR-MAKING. 311 

The waters of the Eaie du Cap are so clear that we could dis- 
tinguish the Madrepores at the bottom, different species of 
Algse, many of them growing- on the corals, and the many-hued 
fish disporting amongst them. Through this opening at the 
foot of the mountain, which extends into the sea forming the 
Cape, lay om* road to reach our quarters for the night. It is 
an awkward place to mount and descend to the other side. In 
one part there is a narrow ledge giving barely a foothold, and 
a false step would send you sheer down the precipice till you 
struck the water 100 feet below — the pure atmosphere, the 
magical lines of colour in the spray tossed from the reefs as 
they combed along to the shore, forming a series of glittering 
arches, from which the ' Culprit Fay ' might have filled his 
crimson cup with the falling drops, though I fear me the Ouphe 
would have had worse dangers than even ' quarl and scallop ' to 
contend with on the reefs of the Bale du Cap. 

The sun sank below the horizon as we approached the spot 
where our tent was pitched, near a group of cocoa-nut trees, 
on the soft sward peculiar to this part of the Island. I found 
a number of Algae, particularly two very curious species of 
Caulerpa. The trunks of the cocoa-nut trees were covered with 
Cyclostomas, and many of them were riddled from their attacks, 
as they work their way to the very heart. The main road 
skirts the sea here, and we kept along it till we came to the 
' Bel Ombre ' estate. We crossed the Citronnier Eiver over a 
neat little bridge, and came out on the plains of the ' Bel 
Ombre,' bordered on one side by rows of Filaos. The sugar- 
house and dwellings lay directly in our course, so we had a 
good opportunity of witnessing the process of sugar-making, 
which had then just begun. A crowd of women and children, 
all as merry as crickets, were engaged in spreading out the 
bagasse to dry on the grass. They saluted us as we passed, and 
looked astonished at seeing us walking there ; but not half so 
much as we did, to see so many boys and girls in a perfectly 
nude state, and the mammas in scarcely a better condition, 
having on only the barest apology for a covering. It was so 
disgusting a sight that we hurried away from them. This 
estate occupies nearly 5,000 acres, and has had endless expense 
laid out on it to render it one of the finest in the Island. We 
returned to the beach road, which is delightful, the soft sward 



312 BIRDS. [Ch. XXII. 

and shade of the Filaos being very pleasant after the rough roads 
we had traversed so long. 

We came to the fine estate of Beauchamp, and it struck me 
as one of the most desirable residences in Mauritius. On a 
charming spot on the SW. bank, being the extreme point sea- 
ward of Jacotet Bay, we determined to fix our home for some 
days. The bay possesses historic interest, from its having been 
the scene of one of the most daring exploits of the war in 1810, 
when Captain Willoughby, E.N., with his boat's crew, effected 
the first landing of the English in the Island, took possession of 
a French fort there, and captured the officer in charge of it ; 
then crossing the Eiviere des Galets, he took the battery on the 
Souillac side, carried off its guns, towed out a schooner lying- 
there, and got back to his frigate with the loss of only one man. 
On the bluff is the house belonging to the estate, overlooking the 
bay, and commanding a fine prospect inland. It was here that 
some of the former governors of the Island used to pass the 
summer months ; and I am not at all astonished at it, for it is 
one of the loveliest spots in Mauritius. It was near this place 
that a planter was carried off prisoner by the boats of the 
' Nereid.' He was afterwards exchanged for twelve or fifteen 
seamen. Another story runs that he was ransomed for his weight 
in vegetables ! Being a very stout man, it may be fancied the 
amount of cabbages^and onions the boats carried off! 

The bay is circular, with an irregular-shaped islet in its 
centre. Numerous streams abounding with fish pour into it. 
The hills rise in the background one over the other, most of 
them well wooded ; and in the middle distance clumps of palms 
and cocoa-nut trees varied the landscape, their long leaves 
swaying to every passing breeze. There is an abundance of 
trees round the bay ; and the wild canaries, the only native 
songsters^ in the Filaos made the air resound with their pretty 
warblings, as they feasted on the little cones they are so fond 
of. Some of their nests were shown to us. 

Thousands of Myna birds roused us the first thing in the 
morning with their noisy households ; and we had glimpses of 
the Cardinals, though the male had not as yet put on his bright 
scarlet mantle, which he changes for a sombre brown one as 
summer dies away. 

The pretty little Pingoes, or Nutmeg Birds (so called from 



Ch. XXII.] ACTINIAS. 313 

the breast being of the peculiar shade of a fresh nutmeg when 
cut in two), were twittering on every bush. 

From the configm-ation of the Black Eiver Mountains the 
neighbourhood of the Bale du Cap suffers severely in hurricane 
weather. The mountains of Laporte, Le Fouge, and Canot, 
which extend along the bay and river, are of great height, in a 
direction nearly NE. and SW., and increase the violence of the 
winds which blow SE. and SW., presenting an obstacle to their 
passage, which causes whirlwinds that spread devastation 
around. When the winds take their ordinary hurricane circle, 
often from the north, these hills arrest the squalls momentarily, 
to precipitate them with greater force on the neighbouring 
plantations to the south. 

In this district, which was formerly successfully cultivated, 
canes and cotton also thrive ; but from the tenacious character 
of the soil it requires a large amount of labour to work it well. 
P>om the Black Eiver to the Cape the earth is blackish ; but in 
the gorges near the bay the change of soil and temperature is as 
great as if in different latitudes. In the latter is found only a 
light reddish- yellow earth, free from stones, and the frequent 
and abundant rains render it extremely fertile. 

On the evening of our arrival we heard a great shouting of 
men and women's voices, and our attention was called to a party 
of Creoles in pirogues, in the small inner bay, near the bridge 
which spans the Riviere des Gralets. 

Torches were burning in the bows of the pirogues, and the 
men were beating the sides with sticks and shouting with all 
their might. The mullets and other fish, attracted by the 
lights and frightened at the noise, leapt from the water into the 
boats. We were greatly amused at this novel mode of fishing, 
and we remained watching till a large quantity of fish was taken. 

The island in this bay is of curious formation, similar to that 
of the Isle des Aigrettes, a composite of coral dehHs and shells 
overlying beds of lava. It can be reached at low water on foot 
by approaching it from the east. It is covered with bushes, 
and on the outer side is bounded by very deep water. The rocks 
are covered with the Geraifnium ruhrum, and a curious Echinus. 

The lovely Actinias are in all their glory. They well deserve 
the name of ' Sea Anemones ' ; especially a very common one on 
this coast, with tentacles of the richest imperial blue and the 



314 A SEA GARDEN. [Ch. XXII. 

heart yellowish. The lines to the Blue Anemone would suit 
equally tliese beautiful sea-flowers : — 

Flowers of starry clearness bright, 
Quivering urns of coloured light, 
Have ye caught your cup's rich dye 
From the intenseness of the sky, 

From a long, long fervent gaze 
Up that blue and silent deep. 
Where like things of sculptured sleep 
Alabaster clouds repose 
With the sunshine on their snows ? 

Masses of Astrseas and Meandrinas form a contrast to the 
branching Madrepores and the trellised fan-shaped Grorgonas. 
All glow with lustrous tints, with softened shades, a painter 
must despair of imitating. All are blended and harmonised by 
the medium of the bright transparent waters of the ocean ; but 
bring them into our atmosphere, and even as we clutch them 
they lose their beauty, withered by the gross touch of the 
human hand. How like yet how unlike a terrestrial garden ! 
This is composed of luxuriant vegetation — trees, shrubs, flowers, 
all the wealth of vegetable life ; in that nearly the whole 
landscape (if I may be allowed the word in such anomalous case) 
is composed of animal life, not flowers teeming with it outwardly 
as on earth, but the very flowers themselves existent, sentient 
beings. To carry on the simile. Parasites are not wanting. 
Flustras and Escharas cling everywhere to the coral branches, 
answering to the Orchidese of the forest, and the Serpulae mine 
along the securest dwellings of the Mollusca, even as the Carias 
do the noblest trees. Eels swim in and out of the green 
Ulvas, in their sinuous paths resembling glittering snakes. 
Damberries, with blood-stained fins and golden-scaled armour, 
float gracefully about, and ever and anon the Quarl, that fearful 
monster the 'Pieuvre' immortalised by Victor Hugo for all 
time, warily sends forth its long feeders from out some hidden, 
time-worn cave. Woe betide the incautious fish that plays 
within the sweep of its terrible arms — one touch from those 
dread suckers, and further struggle is in vain ! 

Crabs swarm everywhere, of many varieties, some quite new 
to me. One in particular, which we named the Jumping Crab, 
from its leaping two or three feet from rock to rock when 



ch. xxil] a nights fishing, 315 

pursued. It would take a baited hook readily, so that we 
easily caught some. As we sat fishing on the bluff, a good- 
sized Tazarre waited on us, remaining perfectly motionless 
within a few feet of the surface ; and no sooner did we draw a 
fine fish from the deep water, than he would instantly snatch 
at it. We baited a large hook with a live fish, and threw it to 
liim, but he was not to be done so easily, and refused it. 1 
then watched my opportunity, and just as he was darting at a 
fine Damberry, I sent him a leaden pill from my revolver, and 
he soon disappeared, leaving us to fish in peace. 

Some Creole fishermen offered to provide us rare sport from 
a fishing excursion to the reefs, if we would stand the expenses, 
which were only a few dollars, and to which we gladly assented ; 
and active preparations in torches, &c. went on for the evening's 
diversion. Two good-sized pirogues were manned by four stout 
negro Creoles; and jolly fellows they were, regular sea dogs! 
A box of provisions, our pipes and tobacco, some good old rum, 
and Hennessy's best, with extra clay pipes for our men, completed 
our outfit. Spirits were an absolute necessity, as we expected 
to be wet through for hours. We pulled our pirogues about a 
mile out from the shore, to the outer reef, and anchored them, 
leaving one man as a guard. We all then jumped into the 
water, which was nearly up to our waists, armed with long spears, 
and we followed our guides cautiously, just keeping clear ( f 
the breakers. Suddenly there was z. halt, and silence was en- 
joined. Our torches were lit, and in a hole close to us we ob- 
served numbers of fish that soon approached the light. ' Now 
is your time I — throw in your lances ! ' said our sable friends ; 
and away they went like lightning, cleaving the water, scat- 
tering the Medusae and jelly fish in all directions, that left behind 
a train of phosphoric light as they darted through the waves. 
A cord was attached to the lances ; and as I drew mine in, I 
found I had speared a large fish of the genus Pseudoscarus, 
called here a Cateau, very handsome, tut not very choice eating. 
We bagged several fine fish, none weighing less than from two to 
two and a half pounds. On we went, the Creoles evidently 
knowing every hole and break in the reefs. We disturbed 
myriads of little animals which appeared to have taken up their 
abode in the empty cells in the great coral beds. This sea 
garden was lighted up with millions of tiny sparks — the glow- 



3i6 AN OCTOPUS. [Ch. XXII. 

worms of the deep, lighting the finny tribes of nocturnes to 
their pre}, and presenting a pyrotechnic display on a small 
scale to us, but to them possibly equal to our brightest calcium 
light. 

We were glad to hear that our old enemy the Tazarre never 
attacks at night. One of the Creoles hooked a large Ourite, or 
catfish (their Creole name). Octopus vulgaris. No sooner was 
it on the hook, than it darted its long tentacles up the pole, 
and wound one of its slimy feelers, with its double row of cup- 
like suckers, round his arm. The knife was instantly applied, 
and the limb severed from the body of the fish ; but even then it 
was with difficulty that it could be detached, the suckers possess 
such remarkable tenacity. After removal, a sense of numbness 
remained for a good while in the arm. The brute was, however, 
dislodged from his hole, and proved to be a large one, measuring 
ten feet from tip to tip of the tentacles. I had often seen this 
animal on the reefs, but had always given it a wide berth, 
knowing it to be dangerous ; and coming to close quarters with 
the disgusting-looking animal did not at all make me anxious 
for its proximity. A number of smaller ones were caught, and 
the fishermen despatched them by turning their bodies inside 
out, thus leaving an empty sack. 

We fished until half-past two in the morning, having been 
between four and five hours in the water. We returned safely 
to our pirogues, which were laden with our night's spoils ; but on 
the way to them I fell into a deep hole, and thus took an in- 
voluntary early morning bath, which did not, however, make 
me much wetter than I had previously been. A good draught 
of Hennessy, as we got into the boat, put us all to rights ; and we 
got home well pleased with our excursion, but fully determined 
our next should be on a moonlight night. We fished up some 
large yellow cones on the reefs, the C. betulinus ; and, amongst 
the sea-weeds I brought away, I found a curious specimen of 
Grigartina, some fine pieces of Godium toTYientosum, and a rare 
one of Delesseria. The latter genus, though common in most 
parts of the world, had hitherto escaped my search, so I was 
greatly pleased to find a specimen at last. 

A fine cool morning invigorated us, so that, in spite of our 
night's outing, we resolved to make the most of our time ; and, 
after a hasty breakfast, we set off with a guide to visit the Falls 




jjllip 

ililiiiiiiiiiliimiiilli 



Ch. XXIL] JACOTET BAY. 317 

of the Eiviere des Gralets, which has its outlet uear Jacotet 
Bay. 

Our path was anything but a pleasant one, alternately forcing 
our way through liane-twined trees that impeded our progress 
every five yards, or out in the open through high grass, bearing 
a barbed seed [Antkistiria barbata), which worked its way into 
our flesh, and which we could not detach from our clothes 
without much trouble — a far worse species than that on the 
plains of St. Pierre. Much of the ground was also encum- 
bered with large boulders ; and with all these impediments, 
we found we had a guide who knew no more of the road than 
we did, so it may be supposed we did not make much headway. 

Before reaching the Falls, our way lay along the side of a 
hill on which a path had been made. To make this road great 
masses of calcareous rock have been cut through, showing the 
successive layers, which vary greatly in thickness, but each one 
distinctly marked by lines of ferruginous earth. The river 
forms a very beautiful cascade, not like that of Chamarel, in 
one continuous sheet of water down into the depths below, but 
it is broken by huge craggy rocks covered with ferns and mosses, 
thus giving a more varied aspect to the scene. The height of 
the whole is little less than three hundred feet. Instead of 
the rude passage formed by a fallen trunk of a tree (as described 
by one traveller), a good pile bridge now spans the Riviere des 
Galets. 

We left Jacotet Bay with regret, and pushed on to the Port 
of Souillac. Our road still lay along the shore, and we had a 
continuation of the turfy land, very pleasant walking. The 
Riviere de la Savane flows into the Bay of Souillac, and has a 
good bridge over it ; the left bank is precipitous, and in the 
rainy season it must bring down a great volume of water to the 
sea. The village is picturesquely situated ; it has a fine Roman 
Catholic church, of Grothic architecture, some good buildings,, 
most of them with gardens attached ; and here the District Courts 
are held. A good deal of business is done in this little place. 
It is the most southerly point of the island, and lies in one of 
the very finest cane districts. A number of coasters were lying 
there, waiting for freights, having discharged their cargoes at 
the quays constructed for that purpose. It was formerly the 
most convenient port for the planters to ship their sugar for 

Z 



3i8 GRAND BASSIN. [Ch. XXII. 

the Port Louis market, before railroads were an established 
fact, and will continue so to this district till a branch line is 
made to the Savane. This port, which formerly could receive 
boats drawing eight feet of water even at low tide, is gradually 
closing so that craft only drawing five feet can now enter. The 
barrier is formed by large rocks and trees which are carried down 
the slopes by the descent of mountain torrents during the rainy 
season, and the daily degradation of the cliffs near the jetty 
and quays. The temperature of the Savane near the sea is 
generally warmer than in the upper parts. The south winds 
singularly affect both men and plants in this quarter. They 
are insupportable to people of asthmatic or consumptive ten- 
dency, and when they blow with violence for several days, trees 
and plants suffer severely from their withering influence. 

About fifteen miles from Souillac is the famous Grrand 
Bassin ; and as we had none of us seen it, we set off to it, having 
previously got permission to use a large hangar in its vicinity. 
Part of our way lay through cane fields, and part through the 
woods. The Bois Sec, as this part of the country is called, 
answers very completely to its name. It is dreary in the ex- 
treme. Thousands of dried-up skeletons of trees blanched to a 
ghastly whiteness meet the eye on every side ; and but for the 
tangle of lianes and plants at their feet showing life, it might 
be a forest of primaeval days over which some blighting plague 
had passed. 

As falls the plague on man^ 

and left it as a memento to future ages of the dire rum. The 
lianes P7'em9ia scandens and Seeaarborea twine round the rugged 
stems and hide their barrenness. Formerly here grew the Syzy- 
gium glomeratum^ spreading its lordly branches far and wide ; 
but now it is rarely seen, being replaced by the Syzygium scan- 
dens, which is a mere climbing shrub. Two species of Lycopo- 
dium grow here. Acrostichese, Adiantums and Aspleniums 
are plentiful, and the elegant Cyathea excelsa. The trunks of 
the latter are covered with concave plates, whose sections are in 
waves, closely arranged in a circle next the bark. The stems 
are marked with long scars, broken into ragged projections, 
showing where the leaf has fallen, and thus produced these scars. 
It is not uncommon to see various Polypodia, Vittarias, and 



''^i!|l!in!||ili:!|!l'i'!'Pii';fi!'ilii|;l 



!<i: llHl I III I ch 



i|j|li;||ij!;iiii|||||^^ 




Ch. XXIL] SAVANE. 319 

other ferns growing out of the scars, giving the tall bare trunks 
a singular appearance ; or a delicate jasmine or other creeper 
will twine round the rugged stem, covering it with tender 
verdure ; whilst over all spreads the exquisite crown of fronds, 
that makes it the King of Ferns in Mauritius. 

Where we traversed the woods it was a most tedious kind of 
scrambling over fallen trunks and giant coils of roots, througli 
thickets of climbers, and not unfrequently into deep holes. We 
passed the night at the hangar, and found the temperature so 
much lower that we felt the change sharply, our coverings being 
but scant. We paid our visit to the Grand Bassin early in the 
morning, along a private road cut throug^h the bush. A troop 
of deer was quietly feeding on the rough grass, but our presence 
did not greatly scare it. This interesting lake lies at the height 
of 2,250 feet above sea-level, has an area of about 25 acres, and 
fills the crater of an extinct volcano. It is nearly surrounded 
with dense woods, which cov^erthe slopes of the hills, part of the 
Savane chain. This great reservoir receives the waters of many 
streams in the rainy season : but the body of water varies little 
in depth the whole year, being fed from underground springs 
that percolate through the porous lava at the foot of the 
mountains. The accounts of its great depth are incorrect. I 
could not get soundings over sixty feet, though I tried in many 
places, as I swam over it, there being no boat there at that 
time. The water is delightfully clear and cold, and I think is 
the finest in the Island. W^e were told not to plunge in on 
account of the monster eels ; but though we fished for them a 
good while, not one put in an appearance. There were plenty of 
Dame Ceres, or golden fish, and two fine black swans were sail- 
ing majestically about the lake. 

Towards the centre of the Grand Bassin is a little island, on 
which grow a few Vacoas and shrubs, and the Nymphcea stel- 
lata adorns its edges. We turned away considerably dis- 
appointed, excepting for its geological interest. I think it has 
been greatly overrated. The accompanying view is taken from 
the SE. of the lake, taking in the whole Bassin at an angle of 
90°, the Pitou Mountain in the distance. 

The next day after our return to Souillac, we paid a visit to 
the Cascade of Savane in the neighbourhood. A wall of black 
basalt interrupts the course of the river of the ?ame name, 



320 GROS BO IS. [Ch. XXII. 

composed of the most regular geometrical prisms, by the action 
of the water separated and broken, and forming a thousand 
angular projections. 

As the river surmounts the rocky barrier, and breaks into 
innumerable streams, flung back from point to point, and send- 
ing up showers of spray, sparkling in the sun with rainbow 
rays, it equals in beauty any in the Island, and even in the dry 
season is most romantic. As it descends into the Bassin below, 
the waters meander peacefully along, bordered with the large- 
leaved Nymphseas, and overhung with the elegant wild Bananas, 
Raffias, and Bamboos, and the scene changes to one of thq most 
perfect repose. 

Beneath it sweeps 
The current's calmness : oft from out it leaps 
The finny darter, with the glittering scales, 
That dwells and revels in thy glassy deeps ; 
While chance some water lily sails 
Down where the shallower wave still tells its bubbling tales. 

After leaving Souillac, our route was still along the coast, 
boulders encumbering it as usual. We crossed several incon- 
siderable rivers, and halted near the Riviere du Poste, the 
boundary of the districts of Savane and Grrand Port. A rock 
causeway traverses this river, which they told us was so dan- 
gerous during heavy rains, from the sudden swelling of the 
waters, that many lives had been lost there. 

The ascent on the Grrand Port side is so rugged and steep that it 
is called L'Escalier, and between it and the Riviere Tabac stands 
a fair-sized village. Beyond this lies a tract of country, in 
former times a dense forest, containing such fine timber trees 
that it obtained the name of Grros Bois. From the destruction of 
these trees even so early as the time of occupation by the 
Dutch, doubtless many species once abundant are now rare if 
not wholly extinct. The reckless way the trees were cut down 
by the crews of every vessel that touched here must have made 
great changes in the forests. During the present century the 
same system (or rather the want of any system) has prevented 
the growth to the full size of the best timber. In the Gros 
Bois are still fine specimens of the Calophyllum spurium, but 
they are rare. The small-leaved Tatamaka, the Eleodendron 
mentale, the Jambosa venosa, Colophania, and two species 




CASCADE OF THE KIVER SAVANE. 



Ch. XXII.] THE SOUFFLEUR. 32' 

of ebony, yet abound, and a host of others which I could only 
admire and guess at their names. 

We next camped at a pretty spot, shaded with Filaos and 
Bamboos, about thirty feet above the level of the sea, and within 
a mile of the Souffleur, a natural curiosity. The coast here is a 
line of abrupt rocks, rising up from the deep water, and the waves 
break against them with a wild and angry roar, as the surf rolls 
in unchecked by reefs ; but it proved so soothing and musical 
to our ears that we all dropped off to sleep immediately after 
dinner, having had a fatiguing walk. In the morning the sea 
was still more boisterous, and dashed the spray right over our 
tent, so that we were obliged to pitch it higher up. From the 
action of the waves numerous caverns and fissures are worn in 
these rocks, even the mightiest boulders not being able to 
resist their violence, as they work their revenge on them for 
the time when , as molten rivers of fire, they broke down the 
giant crater walls, and forced back the waves of the ocean itself 
to a great distance, laying the foundation of the great coral 
reefs that are spreading far and wide. 

The name Souffleur, or Eock Spout, has been given to an 
enormous block of black basalt, connected by a broken ledge 
of rocks with the mainland. It rises nearly forty feet above 
the sea, exposed to the full force of the waves, and is perforated 
to its summit by a cavity that communicates with the ocean. 
When there is a heavy swell the waves rush in and fill up the 
vacuum with terrific fury. Wave on wave presses on, and there 
being no other outlet, the water is forced upwards, and forms a 
magnificent jet dj'eau, ascending to a height of fifty or sixty 
feet. The noise can be heard for two miles ; and when the 
Souffleur growls and roars, it is a sure indication of rough 
weather. 

The rocks are now greatly undermined, and the Spout is so en- 
larged that it is daily losing its former grandeur ; but the day we 
saw it, they told us that it was performing its best. The wind 
had been blowing strongly from the SE. for several days, and 
the sea ran high, so we had a good view of it. When in action 
it emits a singular rumbling sound, and the rocks tremble and 
vdbrate so much that it caused a most unpleasant quivering all 
over the body as we watched it from the adjacent rocks. So 
great are its powers of suction that a stone placed within ten 



322 BLUE BAY. [Ch. XXII. 

feet of the adit was quickly drawn in. It is only when in a state 
of tranquillity that it can be approached wittfout danger. The 
wet rocks are covered with slimy weeds (Cladophora, Valonioides, 
and Fucus miniTnus), which make the foothold very precarious. 

At a little distance along the coast is another curious monu- 
ment of the work of the ocean, the ' Pont Naturel,' as it is 
called. It resembles a real bridge, with a pile and two arches, 
through which the sea swirls and rushes with the greatest im- 
petuosity. The formidable chasm is daily widening, the foam- 
ing billows breaking against the rocks, and the arches are being 
gradually undermined, so that some future cyclone will cause 
their total disappearance. I found some very fine Chitons on 
this bridge {Chiton magnificus). The slopes to the sea are 
covered with couch grass, the Cynodon tenellus, which appears 
to flourish most in the salt atmosphere. Troops of hares crop 
this saline herbage with great avidity, so we had no lack of 
game. 

The whole of this part of the coast is strewn with rocks of 
basalt, many of which present the appearance of sudden 
refrigeration when in a state of such ebullition as to cause 
bubbles large enough to contain several gallons ; and many of 
these vesicles may be found cohering, the parietes of which 
are scarcely thicker than paper, and the whole weighing but a 
few pounds.^ 

Our progress in returning from the Souffleur was very slow, as 
our route alternated between a scramble over rocks and a flounder 
through mud, much of the land hereabouts being marshy. The 
whole shore along this coast is also full of holes, burrowed by a 
species of land-crab, called Tourlouroux by the Creoles : they may 
be seen scampering in all directions, but always under protest, 
to judge from their defiant attitudes. 

After the wild sea-landscape we had been so long gratified 
with, we came to one of quite an opposite character. A narrow 
arm of the sea runs up some distance into the land, and is 
called the ' Bras de Mer de Chaland.' It is a picture of perfect 
repose, its waters so clear that the rocks and fish at a depth of 
twenty feet are visible, and from their colour it has obtained 
the name of Blue Bay. A charming view is had of this place 

' See Bolton's Almanac. 



Ch. XXI I.] POINT UESNY. 323 

when going to Mahebourg by rail. It is nearly bordered with 
tall Filaos, and at a distance it looks like a lovely blue inland 
lake shut in by shading trees. 

We took a pirogue here, and went off to the Isle des Cocos, 
shell-hunting. The whole of the southern coast is rich in 
conchological treasures. The finest Harps in the Indian Ocean 
are found in the deep waters round this part of the island. We 
had some difficulty in returning, for the tide set dead against 
us. After quitting this tranquil spot, we had once more a fine 
soft verdure under our feet as far as Point d'Esny. Here we 
pitched our tent, a little beyond the Military Camp, whence 
we had a capital view of the town of Mahebourg, which lies on 
a slope towards the sea. The white tower of the Catholic 
church shone out conspicuously against the dark foliage of the 
embowering trees, and the Creole Mountains made a fine back- 
ground to the landscape. Before us, seaward, lay the sweep of 
Grrand Port Bay ; the intricate lines of reefs well marked by 
wreaths of foam, and the channels equally distinct by the still 
bright water. Point d'Esny is formed by a small bay making 
in from the larger one of Grand Port. From our quarters a 
causeway has been built that isolates this inlet, and converts it 
into a fish-pond. The soldiers of Her Majesty's 32nd and 86th 
Regiments were exercising on this fine plain, and practising 
with the Schneider rifles which they had lately received. Their 
range was about 800 yards, and many of them made capital 
shots. Grrand Port is the largest harbour on the coast ; but 
owing to its sand-bar and the difficult navigation between the 
reefs, which are spreading in all directions, it can never be of 
any importance for vessels larger than the coasting chasse- 
marees, though it was chosen by the Dutch and afterwards by 
the French as the principal port. 

The Isle de Passe lies at the entrance of the harbour, and 
will be for ever famous in the naval annals of both England 
and France. On it there stood a circular fort and a barracks 
as a defence ; but in 1810 it was stormed by Captain Pym, of 
the ' Sirius ' frigate, and taken. It was kept by the British 
through all the thrilling events which occurred in the deadly 
conflict which took place in Grand Port Bay on the 25th and 
26th August, in the same year, when the French gained their 
bloodiest but last naval victory over the English in the Indian 



324 ISLE OF FOUQUETS. [Ch. XXII. 

seas. After the capitulation of the Isle de France, the barracks 
were occupied for some years by a garrison, but they have long 
been abandoned. 

The adjacent island of Fouquets, wliich is about three miles 
from the nearest point of the mainland, has a lighthouse. The 
foundation line is thirty feet above the sea, and the light is at 
a height of 108 feet. There is a white dioptric light of the 
first order, facing seaward, and which can be seen sixteen miles 
off. This island is hollowed out by the waves in many places, 
forming caverns that undermine it for a good distance. I think 
the foundations of the lighthouse are unsound, for the walls are 
much cracked, and the whole building is off the perpendicular, 
so that I should not be surprised to hear that it had caved in 
during some gale. There is a large tank, which is capable of con- 
taining a supply of fresh water for the use of the keeper and his 
family, brought over in barrels from the mainland every day, 
when the boats take provisions, oil, &c.. and stored there, as the 
place is often inaccessible for days together at high tides, and in 
stormy weather. A most extensive view is obtained from the 
top of the lighthouse. The whole sweep of the Bay, with its 
curiously outlined islands, Dcs Aigrettes, Vacoa, Marianne, De 
la Passe, Aux Cerfs, &c., and a long line of coast both to the 
north and south, are visible. The fine ranges of the Creoles, 
Camisard, and Terra Rouge Mountains are partially seen inland 
far behind the town. 

The ruins of the Old G^rand Port, dating from the time of the 
Dutch governors, were still standing in 1753, when they were 
entirely demolished, and their materials served to construct new 
quarters for the French Commandant and garrison. A new 
town was built in 1805, by Greneral De Caen, who named it 
Mahebourg after Mahe de Labourdonnais. 

The remains are still shown at Point de la Colonie ; but to 
ray eye the existing town is, or will soon be in many parts, 
almost as ruinous. In three-fourths of the place the streets are 
overgrown with grass, and the houses are in the most dilapi- 
dated condition, in fact so much so it is only a wonder how 
people can be got to inhabit them. What were once evidently 
well-cultivated gardens are now neglected, overgrown with 
weeds, and trodden down. Damp and decay have set a stamp 
on nearly the whole place. There are one or two pretty good 



Ch. XXII.] MAHEBOURG. 325 

streets, where the few shops are ; and there is a small covered 
shed for a market-place, which seems well supplied with vege- 
tables, poultry, &c. Since the opening of the railway a few 
new buildings have been run up, and it has a little improved ; 
but even being the terminus of the Midland line has failed to 
give much impetus to the progress of the place. Socially 
speaking, Mahebourg is even more dead-alive than Port Louis 
itself. The station is, I believe, built on land reclaimed from 
the sea, which was previously a saline marsh, and the trains pass 
over a raised causeway of stone. 

The place is considered generally very healthy, the death- 
rate even during cholera and the late epidemic being far less 
than in many other places. Mahebourg resembles most parts 
of this colony, very pretty in the distance, but, like Port Louis 
especially, 

'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view. 

The many umbrageous trees, especially the Badanier, the 
Nowruk, Sang Dragon, Samalonga, Flamboyant, and others, 
give it a most picturesque aspect ; but enter it, and squalor 
and filth abound. It possesses a pretty little Episcopal church, 
the Catholic one before mentioned, and a neat little convent ; 
but very little can be said as to the beauty of the private 
houses that are not dilapidated. Near the sea stand the bar- 
racks, good substantial buildings, in a fine square. 

On a hill overlooking the town are the cemeteries. To arrive 
at them you have to mount a steep hill of red clayey soil, that 
must be terribly heavy for funerals to pass over in wet weather. 
The Protestant and Catholic grounds are all in one enclosure ; 
the latter lie just at the entrance, and are nicely kept. Pretty 
shrubs and trees are planted about the tombs ; and from this 
place you get a lovely view seaward, and you can mark the 
course of the Elvers Creoles and La Chaux, which intersect the 
town, by the steep banks of verdure to the water's edge, and the 
lines of waving bamboos. 

Advance a little farther, and what a change meets the eye as 

you find yourself in the English Protestant burying-ground I 

Neither shrub nor tree shades the neglected graves, many of 

which are merely ill-made mounds of sandy earth. All looks 

desert — nothing to relieve the fierce glare of the sun ; even the 

Aa 



326 



THE CEMETERY. 



[Ch. XXII. 



ground is in uneven hillocks, no order, as if every grave was 
dug at random ; and you go stumbling over ruined vaults and 
old stumps, which show there were once fine old trees, why cut 
down no one could guess, and you turn back, disgusted, to the 
fresh greenery of the Catholic side. 

We did not visit the Isle de Passe at this time, but on a sub- 
sequent trip I had an opportunity of so doing. How it occurred, 
and what I saw, as well as the continuation of our tour, I 
reserve for another chapter. 




rOLN'T AU DIABLE. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

VISIT TO THE ISLE BE PASSE, AND CONTINUATION OF TOUR. 

Preparation for Visit — Eiver Creoles — Crater in Mahebourg Bay — Isle de Passe — 
The Eeturn — Aground — En route again — Point au Diable — Mountain Ranges— 
Camisard— Its Geology — Perns— Grand Eiver SE. -The Falls— The Beau- 
champ Estate — Statue to the Virgin — Trou d'Eau douce — Point Hollandais — 
Annelides — Holothuriee, &c.— Flacq — General Description — St. Antoine — Amber 
Island — Caverns— Islets in Mapou Bay — Polyp — Sunset — Arrival of English Fleet 
in Mapou Bay— Holicanthus semicirculatus — Battle with a Cave Eel — Situation 
of Pamplemousses — The Gardens and Churches — On the road to Port Louis — 
Cemetery of Bois Marchand — Peter Both — St. Croix — Olden Boundaries of Port 
Louis and Defences — The City and its Cries. 

I HAD been spending a few days in Mahebourg, where I was 
most hospitably entertained by the officers of the 86th Regi- 
ment, when a pic-nic was proposed to the Isle de Passe. Most of 
them kept boats, and all were soon put in readiness for our excur- 
sion. Long before dawn on the day fixed, the Creole servants 
were conveying mysterious-looking boxes and hampers, to be 
stowed away in the boats, filled with everything requisite for a 
good time. At sunrise the officers made their appearance in 
the mess-room, dressed in suitable boating costume, but with 
more regard to ease than elegance. After snatching a hasty 
meal, we embarked on the River Creoles, in four pretty sloop- 
rigged boats. This river abounds with choice fish, gourami, 
carp, eels, mullets, and fine camerons. A light breeze carried 
us down the river, and across the sand-bar at its mouth out 
into the Bay ; but we were obliged to stand off towards the 
Lion Mountain, and soon the wind hauled, and we had to take 
to our oars. I was not sorry for this, as we had a cool overcast 
morning, our company was all that could be wished, and we glided 
quietly along. As we rowed slowly over the coral beds, on which 
we could see most distinctly the many-hued molluscs and fish 
disporting themselves, I was able to hook up many interesting 
specimens of Algae. 



328 TURTLES. [Ch. XXIII. 

The curious Holothuriae abound in these waters ; but while I 
was watching them, the submarine scene suddenly changed to 
the blackness of darkness. Instead of the bright sparkling 
waters was a blackish-blue fluid showing deep water. We were, 
in fact, just over the often-described crater ; but this being my 
first visit to it, I felt a curious sensation on coming to this 
deep hole, not unlike what one feels on inadvertently finding 
oneself at the edge of a deserted, uncovered mine. It is nearly 
circular, from three to four hundred yards in diameter, and 
said to be fathomless. The water at the sides, which are the 
walls of a submerged mountain, is a lighter colour, and we could 
see down for a few feet ; the tops must be barely covered at low 
tides. We felt relieved as we could see again the bottom 
through the clear waves. This cavity is infested with monster 
sharks, that always make me shudder when in their vicinity. 

We saw a very fine turtle {Testudo imhricata), and could 
easily have captured it. They formerly abounded on this coast, 
but are now rarely seen. After three hours' rowing we came to 
the Isle de Passe; the others not arriving so soon, as they had gone 
round by the Isle des Aigrettes. The place we landed at is 
rocky, and has been washed away by the sea to such an extent that 
there was danger of the boats being stove in, if the sea proved 
rough, by getting sucked in under the projecting rocks. We 
all proceeded to a small house that I took to have been the Com- 
mandant and soldiers' quarters. Two very large iron mortars, a 
broken gun-carriage, and an iron sixty-eight pounder, to which 
we made our boat fast, were all the warlike implements we 
saw on the island. In close proximity to this house was the 
magazine, with a strong high wall built around it. The ar- 
rangement for heating shot was very curious, and the whole 
work spoke of ancient times. Eoom was made seaward in the rock 
for guns en barbette, but I am of opinion that as a fort of defence 
it would be worth nothing now-a-days. Truly, it commanded the 
Pass, but a shell dropped in among the garrison would not only 
destroy the buildings, dismount the guns, but kill every soul on 
the island, as there was not the slightest chance of escape. 
Casemates could have been built, but in a military point of 
view it is not worth defending. 

The soldiers who were quartered there had amused them- 
selves by cutting their names, and the number of the regiment 



Ch. XXIII.] SOLDIERS' GRAVES. 329 

they were attached to, on the walls. There was scarcely a stone 
inside or out of the magazine but had one or more names on it. 
In the middle of the island were many graves ; and I noticed the 
names of some of the brave 86th, who fought in the desperate 
engagements previously mentioned. There lay the remains of 
the poor fellows taking their final earthly rest in the desolate 
island, never more to start at the sound of the reveille, or the 
thundering din of battle : 

And though no stone may tell 

Their name, their rank, their glory, 
They rest in hearts that loved them well, 

And they grace Britannia's story. 

Some kind-hearted fellow of the present regiment had placed 
a new head and foot-stone at one of the graves, and rudely carved 
on it : ' The 86th Eegiment.' 




MAHEBOtJRG BARRACKS. 

This island is also of upheaval, and of far more recent for- 
mation than Mauritius. It is composed of a friable greyish 
sandstone in easily traced strata, that appear to have been 
thrown over by a sudden convulsion. The dip of the strata is 
at an angle of thirty degrees, and inclined east and west. This 
and others of the group were most likely upheaved by the once 
very active volcano in Grand Port Bay. At one period they 
were much more elevated than at present, and covered with 
palms and cocoa-nuts. At the Isle de Fouquet are still found 



330 SHELL-HUNTING, [Ch. XXIII. 

casts of them, the same as I stated to be found at the Isle des 
Aigrettes. They must all have been submerged and undergone 
a second upheaval, and lie about five miles from Mahebourg. It 
is not improbable that some centuries hence they may be joined 
to the mainland, as in many places the water is so shallow that 
even the light pirogues ground on the reefs. 

After having examined everything worth seeing on the island, 
we returned to the house, where a bountiful repast was spread, 
and the popping of corks and rattling of dishes gave proof 
that the advanced guard had opened action, and in a few mi- 
nutes the whole column was actively engaged doing its duty, as 
English and Yankees well know how. All were in the best of 
spirits, and it would be hard to find a jollier lot of fellows than 
the officers of the 86th. After thoroughly discussing all the good 
things under which our temporary table groaned, we found a 
goblet of iced champagne most welcome, as the thermometer had 
risen ten degrees since morning. 

Some of us then set off shell-hunting, as all the islands of 
this bay are famous for curious specimens. Amongst others I 
found some of the largest Chiton shells I had ever seen, of the 
same species as those at the Souffleur. Our bright sky was 
however fast becoming obscured, and the wind rising ; such 
warnings were not to be neglected, so we soon had all ready, 
and our boats set off together. The one I was in with the 
Major was a slow sailer, and in consequence the others soon 
shot ahead of us, and we found no efforts would keep us up. 
Of course we had to stand a good deal of chaff — asking ' If we 
wanted towing,' or ' If they should take messages ashore,' &c. 
&c. But if our course was tortoise-like, it was for the time 
sure. The wind freshened, and a steady rain set in, and very 
soon our boasting comrades, the hares, were hard and fast on 
the reefs,, and all of them out in the water up to their waists, 
getting their boats off. We sailed merrily past them, and 
flung them some wine as a farewell gift, and got nearly to 
Creole Eiver, when our short-lived triumph was over, and we 
were aground too. It was getting quite dark, but there was 
no help for it. The Major and I had to turn out into the sea 
with the men to push off our boat, the rain by this time pouring 
in torrents. However, we got in all safely after hard pulling, 
glad to find supper ready at the barracks. 



Ch. XXIIL] the return. 33^ 

And now to return to our trip after this long digression. 

From Mahebourg we sent our carrioles round to Point an 
Diable, but we preferred sailing, although there was considerable 
sea on. The distance was about nine miles. This is a spur of 
the Bamboo Mountains, and received its name from early na- 
vigators, as it was said the compass here varied so much without 
apparent cause, which was probably owing to the large quan- 
tity of iron ore that the whole range contains. There is an 
old French fortification of stone, still in fair preservation. 

We pitched our tents near this Point, in order to examine 
the coral reefs. We found large quantities of Sargassum, Cys- 
tophyllum, and for the first time Turhinaria ornata : there is 
but little variety of Algae all round the coast, though Zoophytes 
are pretty numerous. The Sargassum is fine here, with its beau- 
tiful waving branches, covered with the nodes of air vessels resem- 
bling bunches of small yellow fruit ; and amongst it I observed 
shoals of fish about an inch long, of a bright blue, which I took to 
be young Urasse, which swarm round the whole of Mauritius, and 
amongst them are the most brilliant-coloured of tropical fish. 
They come into shoal water at certain seasons, in order that the 
young may not be devoured by the large fish in deep water. 
I tried hard to catch some of these small fry ; but as soon as I 
threw my net they would disappear amongst the weeds, as by 
magic, then when all was quiet they would recommence their 
gambols as actively as before. 

I saw many Anguilles Moreles, but I took good care not to 
disturb them, so they let me alone. How the fishermen 
escape these eels I know not, probably from understanding their 
habits they avoid them. The reef at this part extends out 
some distance, with shallow water between it and the shore ; 
but off the Point, near the fort, it is very deep. 

To the north of Mahebourg is a magnificent range of moun- 
tains, extending from the centre of the island, where they have 
the name of Terre Rouge, to Grrand River SE., changing their 
nomenclature to Creoles, Camisard, Bamboo, and Grrand Port 
respectively. The Creole Mountains form a long spur off the 
main range, and make the background of Mahebourg itself. Nu- 
merous branches diverge to the sea ; and amongst those of Grand 
Port rises the Camisard, supposed to have received its name 
from the Camisa, or shroud of clouds which it often wears ; or, 



.^32 CURIOUS MOUNTAIN, [Ch. XXIII. 

probably, from its having been the refuge of bands of Maroons, 
who there defied capture, as the Camisards of old who fled tc 
the Cevennes. The latter flying for liberty of conscience, 
and the former for personal liberty, not improbably gave the 
consequent idea of calling it the Camisard Mountain. 

This singular mountain is double-headed, and is a curious 
feature in this range, standing out distinctly from the rest. I had 
been twice on the south side, but had never had the opportunity 
to explore its ravines. I now determined to visit it again to ex- 
amine the curious formation of the north side. To do this we were 
obliged to make a detour round the base, crossing the western 
spur, and then force our way up the jungle to the highest points, 
which are quite bare. We planted the Stripes and Stars on one 
head and the Cross of St. Greorge on the other. A regular 
road runs over the mountain, and through the gorge passable 
for man and horse ; but we preferred to make a path for our- 
selves. When we had attained the summit, we were compelled 
to stand and admire the glorious prospect. Waving canes were 
planted nearly to the summit of some of the neighbouring hills. 
The mountain ranges to the north showed their varied peaks 
brilliantly illuminated by the same flood of sunshine that 
glinted the canvas tents of the soldiers at Point d'Esny, and 
fringed with gold the white-robed breakers, tossing madly over 
the dangerous reef barrier. The pretty little islands in Grrand 
Port Bay sleeping calmly in the glare, and the chasse-marees, 
reduced by distance to tiny specks, dotted the ocean far beyond 
the reach of the surf. 

The solid frame of earth 
And ocean's liquid mass in gladness lay 
Beneath him, far and wide the clouds were touched, 
And in their silent faces could be read 
Unutterable love. Sound needed none, 
Nor any sense of joy. 

Vegetation is luxuriant on this mountain ; but my expecta- 
tions had been so raised from the accounts I had heard of it, that 
I was somewhat disappointed. I had already climbed so many of 
the Mauritius mountains and seen so much of its Flora, that 
I saw little new or more interesting than in many other places. 
I found the following ferns, but, with the exception of the 
Aspidium ebenum, they were not finer than elsewhere — the 



Ch XXI I L] the CAMISARD. 333 

universal Odontosoria, Aspidium, capense and ebenum^ 
Gcenopteris vivipara, Nephrodiums, Asplenium lineatum, and 
a few other insignificant ones. Instead of numerous species 
fringing the road-side, waiting for the botanist to gather them, 
we had to hunt diligently for them. Grood ferns are like fairies, 
They that would find them, must search for them well ! 

I had hoped to find many of the rarer Orchidese there, but we 
saw none, save those quite common on every mountain peak in 
the island. I picked up a good many land-shells ; some particu- 
larly fine ones of the Helix inversicolor and H. Staphylen alive. 

The north face of the Camisard is almost perpendicular, 
rising about 800 feet, and presents a magnificent specimen of 
columnar basaltic rock. It displays a congeries of hexagonal 
and pentagonal prisms, from two to six feet long, very regular, 
on the main part of the mountain, of a blueish grey tinge. From 
their size they must have once formed part of an immense 
mass of molten matter, the fissures, constantly occurring, having 
been caused by contraction in its cooling. 

One section has the appearance of having been toppled over 
when in a partially cooled state, and the columns lie in irregular 
confused heaps inclined to the west, and resting on the columns 
of the main part. Ages ago when the melted rocks formed 
these prisms, the whole face of this giant cliff must have presented 
a picture equal to that on the coast of Illawana, New South 
Wales. The elements have played their usual part and made 
wonderful changes since that far-off time. Slowly but surely 
are they degrading column after column, forming a loose dry 
earth that is washed down continually to the plains ; the ruin 
of the upper world of rocks spreading fertility and plenty on 
the lower regions where man resides. One by one those ex- 
quisitely formed prisms, once as perfect as if shaped by the 
most cunning tool ever used by man, are loosened, fall from the 
perpendicular and all shape is lost, bent into a mass of debris, 
scarcely recognisable. The trauvsverse sections of these prisms 
are very distinctly shown where they have fallen and been 
broken off sharp. 

About half-way down the mountain lies a huge block of blue 
basalt, which was detached from above and came crashing down 
like an avalanche, till it was arrested in its course at this spot, 



334 POINT CAMISARD. [Ch. XXIII. 

which is on the edge of a deep ravine. The footpath winds 
close to this rock, and as a portion of it projects, it forms a 
capital shelter from rain. Some time since an Indian and his 
wife sought refuge under it, and while quietly sleeping they 
were both cruelly murdered by Maroons, then infesting this 
neighbourhood, and their bodies were flung into the ravine 
below. The huge boulder is smeared all over with scarlet paint, 
and ashes and charred wood lie all round it. In front of it is 
a pile of small stones and broken boughs. Our men told us 
these were deposited by comrades out of respect for the dead, 
who whenever they passed the spot offered a prayer for them, 
adding to the pile at the same time. This is similar to the 
custom of the Catholics in Spain and many other countries, 
who always erect a cross on the spot where murder has been 
committed, every passer-by placing an additional stone at its 
foot, till I have seen huge piles thus formed heaped together 
on the site of some terrible tragedy. 

"We finished our descent by a narrow path, that led us to our 
rendezvous at Point au Diable. Here we left our men and 
carrioles to make their way as best they could along the rough 
road to Grrand Eiver SE., whilst we kept close to the shore, 
collecting marine plants, or making little detours inland, as 
some interesting spot tempted us. 

We halted for a short time at Grrand Eiver SE., where is the 
terminus of the Northern line of railway, at a distance of thirty 
miles from Port Louis, and where the Grovernment have built 
a substantial stone depot. The village is very small, and prin- 
cipally inhabited by fishermen, and a small garrison of soldiers. 
The bay is large, and the reefs lie a long distance from the 
shore. There is a channel through them, where the chasse- 
marees enter, and water enough for them to come quite up to the 
village. We crossed the bay with all our traps, and pitched our 
tent on a grassy plain on Point Camisard, and near the military 
post. There were about fifty men of the 86th here, with their 
officers, who gave us a courteous reception. They have delight- 
ful quarters, and had made the most of them by planting the 
grounds with pretty-flowering shrubs, and round the house was 
a garden filled with flowers. The seeds had been imported 
from England, and I was pleased to see so many old favourites 
collected together. 



Ch. XXIII.] A VOW. 335 

About a mile from the post are the Falls of Grrand River SE., 
formed by a huge wall of rock arresting the course of the river, 
which pours down it in a broad sheet in stormy weather. It is 
easily reached, except after heavy rains, and presents a curious 
phenomenon, often seen in the rivers here. In a ledge of rock, 
ordinarily dry, is a natural basin, scooped out of the solid basalt, 
about three or four feet ia diameter, and as many deep. The 
pool that receives the waters of the cascade abounds with fish. 
We embarked in a large boat from the jetty, and rowed along 
to get a good view of the coast. The banks are high and bold, 
and almost covered with vegetation. Canes meet the eye every- 
where. Near this is another ' Beauchamp ' estate, one of the 
first sugar plantations in the time of Mahe de la Bourbonnais. 

Fine ferns grew in all the interstices of the rocks ; and on the 
side of a steep cliff, in a natural niche, about thirty feet from 
the water, some devote had placed a white marble figure of the 
Virgin. The sailors that rowed our boat, as we neared it, laid 
on their oars, and reverently crossed themselves, repeating a 
prayer. This statue was placed in this spot in commemoration 
of one who was drowned, by a friend who made a vow to the 
Virgin, that if the body was recovered her image should be 
placed here, and he had well fulfilled his vow. 

After passing the place, we came to a part of the river so 
rocky that it formed a barrier to our farther progress ; luckily 
our sailors were familiar with the place, and steered us clear 
of the danger. We landed near the Falls, and strolled along 
the banks of the river, which takes its rise in the north of the 
Piton du Milieu. At a distance of seven miles are the Dya 
Mamou Falls, said to be of great beauty ; but circumstances 
prevented our visiting them till a later date. The sea was too 
rough for an excursion to the four Isles aux Cerfs, which I had 
wished to visit, as I had heard so much of the quantities of 
pumice-stone found there. 

After leaving the village of Grand Eiver SE., we crossed the 
Riviere Seche, which is fed by numerous mountain streams ; and 
in a little bay that makes in here, we found quite a number of 
interesting plants, but the reefs lay too far off shore for a visit, 
so we pushed on to the Trou d'Eau douce. This is also a fishing 
village, and derives its name from a quantity of fresh water 
that bubbles up on the shore through the saltwater of the tide. 



33^ PALMA. [Ch. XXIII. 

Near this place are several Mares of brackish' water, full offish. 
The Mare aux Lubines rises and falls with the tide, but the 
Mare aux Fougeres has good drinkable water. In the neigh- 
bourhood are large sugar estates ; and in this district are made 
many hundreds of sugar bags yearly from the Vacoas, which grow 
in great abundance. In former times there were establishments 
for the manufacture of indigo ; but this culture, like so many 
other useful ones, has been abandoned. One species of Indigo 
plant is indigenous to the island. 

We encamped off Point Hollandais, near the old Dutch road. 
At a place called Palma, in this neighbourhood, is a natural well 
or opening in the rocks, about forty feet deep and eighteen in 
diameter at the top, which has been walled to prevent animals 
from failing in. This has also a communication with the sea, 
as the salt water flows into it at the rise of the tide. The Plaine 
des Hollandais is rendered fertile by an annual degradation of 
the mountains, which debris is washed down, giving a blackish 
earth peculiarly favourable to the growth of canes. While ex- 
amining the reefs, I found some curious ann elides, of a blackish 
brown colour, about half an inch in width and nearly eleven feet 
in length. I saw them in the tide pools, and when disturbed 
they would rapidly disappear in the crevices of the coral beds. 
Many of them were in process of multiplying their species by 
spontaneous division. I noticed that the animal buried as much 
of the body as he wished to separate ; but this division did not 
take place always in the centre of the body, as some writers assert, 
frequently not a fifth being thrown off. The anterior portion 
to be separated appeared to be in a dormant state, which gave 
me a good opportunity to examine the separation with a magnify- 
ing glass. This portion was very transparent, and all its parts, 
even the eyes and antennae, appeared to be as perfect as in the 
original animal, but it was only connected with it by a small 
thread-like ligament. 

I saw numbers of Holothurise, most of them a dirty brown, 
mottled with yellowish white. There are several species of this 
family here, some of them I had observed at Grrand Port, of a 
beautiful orange colour, about six inches in length. 

The Actiniae were radiantly beautiful. One species was nearly 
eight inches in diameter and six in height, of a purplish colour, 
shaded yellow. The tentacles, when fully expanded, were tipped 



Ch. XXIII.] 



CAMPING. 



337 



with scarlet, forming the most brilliant combination of colours 
possible. 

We pushed on to Flacq, as we all had friends there. This 
is a military post, and some of the 86th, under the command 
of Colonel Lowe, were at this station then, and they gave us 
a hearty welcome and every comfort the place afforded, very 
grateful to tired wanderers. The whole district is one great 
cane field. There are some fine estates in it, and said to yield 
a very superior quality of sugar. The country is mostly an 
undulating plain, with scarcely a tree to relieve the eye, except 




CAilPING. 



round the houses ; and yet this was one of the best wooded parts 
of the island: but all have gone down before the almighty 
sugar-cane. 

Large tracts of Flacq are so encumbered with loose stones 
and rocks as to have gained the name of ' Pave.' The soil 
is greatly diversified, not only on the same estate, but not 
unfrequently in the same fields. In the lower portions the 
climate is in summer excessively hot, and droughts often occur ; 
but in the more elevated parts rains are frequent, and the contrast 
is so great that there is often a difficulty in drying the sugar 
on account of the damp. Eice was in former days grown here 
to a large extent. As there is so much waste land, it might be 
cultivated to great profit. I find the Creole rice, as it is called. 



338 LEASES. [Ch. XXill. 

of superior quality. Its grain is very large, and pearly white. 
It is the sort named ' dry rice,' from its requiring little artifi- 
cial irrigation, and is peculiarly adapted for the hilly uneven 
ground of this island. 

I was informed that very many of the estates were mortgaged 
(the case unhappily too general at the present time), and are 
rented on money leases of a peculiar kind. The lessee culti- 
vates the ground in canes ; manures, cleans, and cuts them for 
the mill ; the lessor, who is generally the owner of the mill as 
well as the land, mills the canes, manufactures the sugar, and 
advances what money the cultivator requires during the time the 
canes are on the ground. When the coujpe is over, one half goes 
to the lessor, and the other to the lessee. My impression is, that 
these conditions are more favourable to the mill-holder than to 
the cane-planter. 

With such a variety of soils as this district affords, it seems 
to me that the small landowners might grow many things 
more profitable than canes — leave the sugar to the large mill- 
owners, and grow other articles, particularly those for food for 
man and beast, and thus supply the large proprietors, instead 
of their being obliged to import almost everything. Vegetables 
grow very freely here ; and as to the Patates, or sweet potatoes, 
I never saw finer. Grreat talk is made of the Flacq oysters, 
but for my part I cannot see in what their goodness consists. 
I think them small and flavourless, not worth the trouble of 
opening. In 1817, I find there was a splendid harvest at Trois 
Flots, in this district, of Nutmegs and Cloves : now there are 
few traces of the trees left. 

During the occupation of Mauritius by the Dutch, a settle- 
ment was formed here, and it received its name from the flat 
surface of a great portion of the district. 

According to Herbert, an early writer on this island, England 
had a prior claim to its possession. He says, the English had 
landed in this district before the Portuguese, who, when they 
took up their quarters there, found crosses put up in many parts 
of the island, thus proving that some Christians had been 
there previously, and the credit of it was given to the English ; 
though I doubt the fact, for surely if England could have claimed 
possession she would not have waited until 1810 to enforce her 
claims. 



Ch. XXIIL] POUDRE UOR, 339 

Monkeys are numerous near the Riviere Seche, and the Mare 
aux Fougeres. In the rocky parts, rats and birds torment the 
cultivator, and weeds are very troublesome to the planter. 
Through the SE. of this district run two parallel ridges of hills, 
the principal of which are the Montague Blanche and Montagne 
de la Fayence ; the latter attaining the height of 1,338 feet. 
About a mile and a half from the military post is a railway 
station. I was very much astonished to find soldiers quartered in 
such a low swampy place. Not long before we were there 
orders came from the Surgeon-Greneral that the soldiers should 
vacate their barracks, and occupy tents, which were accordingly 
pitched near the sea, and there they were encamped on marshy 
land, water running all round them, and in consequence sick- 
ness very soon prevailed amongst the men. 

We left Flacq well pleased with our visit, and went on to 
Poudre d'Or, a squalid, deserted-looking place. It was formerly 
a station for troops, but had been abandoned. It owes its name, 
not to the colour of its sands, but co a peculiar kind of sugar 
said to be made from the canes of this district. They told us 
it was famous for elegant corals and shells in the hurricane 
season ; but we found nothing to interest us at the village, so 
went on to some distance along the shore, and set up our tent, 
and here we added greatly to our botanical specimens. I found 
a fine species of Grigartina, I think the Gigartina mamillosa. 
The water is very shallow, and as the sea was calm, we ventured 
off a considerable distance. Eels, Holothurise, and crabs 
swarm over the reefs, and we had a try to catch a turtle we saw 
feeding on the Sargassum, but he soon disappeared in deep 
water. 

In this vicinity lies Amber Island, celebrated as the locality 
where the St. Greran was wrecked ; but, before our visit to it, 
we went to the estate of St. Antoine, where we were cordially 
received by its hospitable owner, M. Edmond de Chazal. This 
gentleman has a lease of Amber Island, and we felt a delicacy 
in going to it till we had obtained permission. No sooner was 
our wish known than not only was it acceded to, but a pic-nic 
was promptly organised to render our visit agreeable. 

This estate is in fine cultivation, and the establishment has 
always been kept up in a style worthy of the true gentleman of 
the old French school, to which M. de Chazal belongs. His 



340 A PATRIARCH. [Ch. XXIII. 

reputation for kindness and hospitality has spread far and wide 
— from the Grovernors of Mauritius downward all have shared 
his large-hearted hospitality. I must add one other mite of 
praise, like the ' Old English Grentleman,' — 

Although he feasted all the great, 
He ne'er forgot the small. 

The family mansion is a good substantial one, with that 
great addition to comfort in this climate, a wide verandah, 
running its whole length supported on heavy columns, pre- 
senting a "fine appearance as you approach it. A pretty fountain 
plays in front amongst the shrubs, and at the back is a large 
garden, surrounded with a hedge of the Eoussaille {Eugenia 
Michellii), or Brazilian cherry, which, when in flower, resembles 
a cherry-tree, with its cloud of fragile white blossoms, though 
its bright scarlet ribbed fruit will not carry on the comparison. 

Clumps of mangoes also gave shade about the place, and I 
only regretted it was not the season for their delicious fruit. 

At some distance stands a two-storied house, also with a 
verandah. This is the Pavilion, for visitors, quite large enough 
for a Mauritian hotel, and I am told it is often filled with 
guests. 

The sugar-mills were a good way from the dwelling, and they 
are fitted with all modern appliances. 

There are several other houses about the plantations ; and the 
servants' quarters are mostly stone, well ventilated, and the 
ground about them kept neat and clean, and showed the care 
bestowed on them by their master. Each family seemed to 
have its broods of hens and chickens, and some had goats. 
Grood roads traverse the estate, and one of the young gentlemen 
informed me they were made imder his father's supervision. 

I should mention that our host has a fine family of twelve 
sons and daughters, several of whom are married, and following 
in their father's steps. When all are assembled, children, sons 
and daughters-in-law, grandchildren, and servants, my friend 
looks like a patriarch of old at the head of his household, which 
resemblance is heightened by a flowing white beard and a bald 
head ; and his amiable wife will even yet bear comparison with 
her daughters. 

On the morning after our arrival, preparations went on 



Ch. XXIIL] amber island. 341 

vigorously for our excursion to Amber Island, which is about 
three miles off. Champagne baskets and sundry suspicious- 
looking packages were put into the carriages, and our guns 
carefully looked after by a servant, whose especial duty it was 
to see them all in order. 

The morning was cool, and all were in high spirits. M. de 
Chazal's sons and the schoolmaster of the estate accompanied 
us, and off we started to see all that could be seen. After a 
pleasant drive through the plantation, we were dropped on the 
shore near a little jetty, built for the accommodation of visitors 
to the island. 

A fine yawl was in readiness, and two men pulled us across 
the bay. The distance is about a mile, and we landed on an 
open sandy beach. A vast bed of coral extends from the shore 
to the island, and it will soon fill the whole bay. We dis- 
turbed numerous curlews and plovers, that wheeled over our 
heads, uttering shrill cries, but they kept out of the range 
of our guns. 

Amber Island is composed of volcanic rock and lava, and 
was formed by an immense flow in this direction from the 
interior of Mauritius, as well as a flow from a large volcano now 
submerged, lying in a NE. direction : this is plainly seen on 
the E. side, where it has cooled in waves. We passed through 
very high grass to an elevated spot where there are three small 
houses, one for the guardian, and two for visitors. In one of 
these we partook of a capital breakfast prepared by our kind 
host, and after our meal set out to amuse ourselves. The whole 
place swarms with rabbits, and some of the party started off 
shooting, and some, with myself, went to examine a curious 
liole in the centre of the island. I had previously made up my 
mind to enter it, so had provided myself with a good stout rope, 
and one of our party and two of the servants accompanied me 
on the descent. 

This opening is circular, about one hundred feet in diameter^ 
and about twenty-fiv« deep, containing water. 

On the south side there is a dry place, and on this we intended 

to land. The side of this hole is rough and perpendicular, not 

a spot on which to rest a foot, and looks as if cut by hand. 

We fixed a rope to some bushes, and down we went hand over 

Imnd to the bottom. 

Bb 



342 SEA ANEMONES. Ch. XXIII.] 

A species of fern, the Acrostichum aureum, was growing 
list where we landed, and on its fronds I captured a singular 
spider {Tetragnatha pretensa), then quite new to me. We 
disturbed a number of rats and crabs : and in the deepest water 
were mullets, many of them I should think over two pounds' 
weight. 

The water was brackish, and rose and fell with the tides 
though at least half a mile from the sea. This opening has 
probably been formed by the falling in of the walls of a cavern, 
which doubtless traverses the whole of Amber Island. The 
masses of rock heaped up have choked any communication with 
either side, although not sufficient to arrest the flow of water. 
At some distance are several caverns opening into the sea, but I 
had not time to visit any of them. Near the landing-place Mr. 
de Chazal showed me a fissure in the rocks, a few inches wide, ex- 
tending some hundreds of yards, and which he said was the top 
of a cavern containing water. We could hear its splash as we 
flung stones down the opening. We then took a pirogue, and 
poled along the bay to have a look at some other small islands, 
one of which we landed on. At low water the rocks are covered 
with Cyprsea, particularly the Mauritiana and Tigris. In 
all directions were patches of a fleshy Polyp of a lovely peach 
colour. They were about six inches in length, and I, at first, 
thought they were plants of the genus Callithamnion, which 
they closely resembled. I attempted to pluck a handful, and 
soon found out my mistake, as they slipped through my fingers, 
and could only be separated from the rocks with a knife. Here 
again I saw the same lovely Sea Anemones as at Point Hollan- 
dais. I wished I had had time to sketch one, and at first I 
thought of taking one away with me ; but as I watched the 
creature luxuriating in the gently laving water, every wave 
bringing it fresh life and vigour, as it had evidently been un- 
covered before the turn of the tide, I left it to its little life of 
enjoyment. I do not think this animal has been described, nor 
many of the Polyps of Mauritius. Thefr generic names are 
well known, but many of the species are quite new. The student 
of Natural History would find an interesting field of research in 
this branch of science. Catfish are numerous here ; I fre- 
quently saw them with their long arms outstretched for their 
prey, but I took good care not to meddle with them. Caulerpas 



Ch. XXIII.] SUNSET. 343 

abound : one of a quite different species I found, the fronds of 
which are very small, and half-buried in the sand. 

All these islands are volcanic, doubtless formed at the same 
time as Amber Island. The waters rush out of this bay, forming 
eddies and miniature whirlpools, so that it was with difficulty 
we could prevent the tide carrying our pirogue to the outer reef, 
where the waves dash with great violence. I used a small 
paddle, and our two men their poles, but it was some time before 
we could make any headway. It took a good hour's work to 
reach Amber Island, and the sun was setting before we re- 
embarked to return to St. Antoine. Dark heavy clouds were 
gathering in the west, their borders dazzlingly illuminated with 
the gorgeous rays of the rapidly descending sun. As the day- 
god sank into the waves, a crimson and gold lustre streamed 
across the ocean, lighting up the foam-crested billows near the 
reef, till one could fancy they were the white horses of Neptune, 
with waving manes and heads erect, saluting the departing 
majesty. 

Sunsets in the tropics' have been ever a fertile field for de- 
scription, and I believe ever will be. They are sights that never 
pall, never weary, for there is such constant change and va- 
liety, no one ever saw the same shy-scape on different evenings. 
Words can give no adequate idea of the scene, and the noblest 
artist, when gazing on the picture bathed in such ineffable light, 
must lay down palette and brush, and acknowledge that it is 
beyond his art, that no earthly pencil can give more than the 
faintest rescript of aught so glorious. 

We were forty minutes crossing the bay, but I had been so 
absorbed in the scene that it seemed hardly a moment before 
we reached the shore. We passed up a grove of Filaos and othei 
trees to M. de Chazal's house, and a singular effect was produced 
by the faint rays of light as the sun sank below the horizon. 
A shadow was cast on the dark green foliage, and where the 
light struck the leaves, the shadow reflected a deep purple colour 
on them. 

After sharing our host's large hospitality for the night, and 
taking leave of his family, we started off by daybreak in the 
direction of Mapou Bay : another spot most interesting in the 
history of the island. 

To quote the words of an English officer ; — 



344 ^£^ MAPOU BAY. [Ch. XXIII. 

' On the 29th of November, 1810, the English fleet, consisting 
of seventy sail (chiefly men-of-war and Indiamen), anchored in 
the narrow passage formed by the island called Coin de Mer 
and the land. To cover the landing two brigs of war drawing 
little water anchored near the reef within one hundred yards of 
the beach. The boats containing the reserve, consisting of 
grenadiers and light infantry, collected outside the reef, and 
proceeded to the shore with parade precision. Before the eve- 
ning closed, 10,000 men with three days' provisions, and their 
complement of guns, stores and ammunition, had disembarked 
without resistance. The column moved by the right along the 
beach of Mapou Bay for about a mile, and then inclining to the 
left fell into a close wood. 



XFW MArOU BAY. 



This wood, like so many others, has gone down before the 
hatchet, much to the discomfort of pedestrians, for this is one 
of the dry hot districts, with the greatest scarcity of both wood 
and water. On the shore we added pretty largely to our col- 
lection of Algae, amongst others we procured specimens of 
Ectocarpa, Schizonema, Zonaria, Asperococcas, and others 
new to me. On a little projection of rock running out into the 
bay, I amused myself watching the gambols of the small fish as 
they disported in the tide pools. In one little basin, con- 
taining about six feet of water clear as crystal, there were 



Ch. XXIII.] A LARGE EEL. 345 

several small Chaetodons, and amongst them two or three of the 
richly coloured Holicanthus semicirculatus. The body of 
this fish is of glossy black, with perpendicular lines from the 
top of the head to the pectoral fins, alternately of the purest 
white and brightest imperial blue. From the pectoral the 
lines begin to curve till they form perfect semicircles across 
the rest of the body to the tail, the alternate blue line changing 
to purple. The second dorsal is covered with a network of 
bright blue and yellow wavy lines on a ground of deep maroon. 
The caudal fin is half black, banded blue and white, termi- 
nating in a fringe of deep yellow. The anal fin is black, with 
curiously twisted blue lines. The effect of such a combination 
of colour when in the limpid water may be imagined. When 
not frightened, it will swim gracefully round and round in 
circles, glancing its bright golden eye at the intruder ; but 
make the slightest movement, and, like a flash of light, it dis- 
appears to its hiding-place, and remains till the fancied danger 
is past. I was watching one of these lovely little creatures, 
almost breathless lest I should disturb it, when suddenly it 
vanished ; and I was curious to see the cause of its panic, as I 
was quite innocent of it. After waiting a few seconds, I caught 
a glimpse of the head of an eel, not larger than a man's thumb, 
protruding through an opening in the coral bed four inches 
wide. Finding that the animal did not come out, and that he 
was evidently lying in wait for his prey, I determined to take 
him, if possible ; so baited a good-sized hook, and suspended it 
over his hole. Hook and bait were seized, and I saw that I 
had an ugly customer to deal with, a large savage fellow. I 
prepared a cod hook with steel chain, and baited and attached 
it to a good-sized cod line. He seized greedily, and with a jerk I 
drew out his head. I called loudly to Jumna, who was a weak 
sickly little man, to hold on tightly to the line, while I jumped 
into the water to spear him. He didn't half like the job ; how- 
ever, he held on like grim Death. I carefully approached the 
hole when the brute came at me boldly. I was a little too quick 
for him, and planted my grains into his neck, about six inches 
from his head. We then began hauling him out, but it took 
all our strength to handle him, for he resisted furiously. We 
pulled away nine feet, and still saw no end to his body — ten 
feet ! eleven feet ! ' Why,' said I, ' we have caught a yoimg sea 



346 THE CAVE EEL, [Ch. XXIII. 

serpent.' Twelve feet ! and his tail began to wriggle out. I 
then quickly retreated to the rock, and we made for the shore, 
dragging our game ; and even on land we had much ado to hold 
him, till I despatched him by severing the vertebrae with my 
hatchet. 

This monster eel measured twelve feet three inches in length, 
and round the largest part of the head fourteen and a half inches. 
The head of this species terminates in a blunt point, the two 
small bright eyes not more than an inch from the end. The 
large mouth is filled with long sharp teeth, even the roof is 
covered with these formidable weapons. This eel is very dan- 
gerous, but not so common as reported. There are several 
species of this genus, but none so large as this. The fishermen 
call it the ' Cave Eel ' : its specific name I do not know. I 
was not a little proud of my game, so kept him, and on my 
return had him stuffed, and he now hangs on my office ceiling. 

From Mapou Bay we turned inland over narrow paths leading 
through the various sugar plantations. The whole of this 
quarter suffers more or less from scarcity of water ; and in some 
parts the borer and vegetable plague, the Herbe Caille, do infi- 
nite mischief. The country, as far as Pamplemousses, is only 
a succession of cane-fields, alternating with fallow land, or plan- 
tations of Manioc, or the Ambrevade {Gajanus jiavus\ y^\i\Q\i 
are grown as rotation crops — the former largely used as food for 
cattle, and the latter affording a small variegated pea (a favour- 
ite Creole dish), leaves for fodder, and the brushwood for burning, 
besides enriching the ground. 

The district of Pamplemousses is a vast plain, bounded on 
one side by Mount Longue, L'Embrasure, Peter Both, La 
Nouvelle Decouverte, and the heights of Villebague, and Piton, 
and stretching away to the sea on the other. There are two 
large marshes, the Peter Both and Nicoliere, with some lessei 
ones near the village, caused by infiltration from the rivers and 
canals. These have been the source of the malaria, which has 
produced deplorable effects on its population, showing a death 
rate during the fever next to that of Port Louis. 

The railway station at Pamplemousses is a few yards distant 
from the soi-disant tombs of Paul and Virginia, and a short 
stroll takes you into the heart of the village. Its appearance 
is pleasing, from the number of gardens and fine trees about it : 



Ch. XXIIL] 



BOTANICAL GARDENS. 



347 



but here, as in every place in the island, two-thirds of the 
houses are in a ruinous condition. Standing in its midst are 
the Botanical Gardens, which form so conspicuous a feature 
from the abundance of fine flowering trees even on their 
borders, the branches hanging over into the public roads. 

In the centre, on a slight rise, stands an old-fashioned-look- 
ino- Catholic church, its white tower, which possesses a fine 
clock, forming a landmark for many a mile away. The grounds 
round it are nicely laid out, and surrounded with a capital 




PROTESTANT CHURCH. 



thorny fence, which overtops the wall, the Helicteres hirsuta, I 
think, a species of heliotrope, cut till it forms an impervious 
mass. The pink and yellow blossoms look very gay ; but beware 
plucking them for their beauty, for not only do they bristle 
with sharp thorns, but they do not breathe odours of Araby.' 
A large cemetery is near the church, adorned with shrubs and 
flowers, and containing some tine tombs, unhappily but too 
much augmented of late years. A small Protestant church and 
parsonage stand on an eminence at one side of the village. Its 
tower is still incomplete, and it has little architectural beauty 
to boast. The only other noticeable building is a convent, with 



^ The Creoles give it the name of ' Vieille Fille.' 



348 VALLEY DES PRETRES. [Ch. XXIII. 

the best kept garden in the place. After resting in one of the 
summer houses of the only hotel, and refreshing ourselves after 
a long tramp to see all there was to see. we at last turned our 
faces homeward, and set off on the hiofh road to Port Louis. 

Since the establishment of the railway, which diverged from 
the former route, this road has little trafi&c, and very hot and 
dustv we found it. For a gfood wav canes lined the sides of 
our path, but the waste lands were more numerous, particularly 
the nearer we approached the city. "VN'e passed the little village 
of Calebasses and Terre Eouge, which, with the exception of a 
station house, police quarters, and half-a-dozen small cottages, 
are mere collections of Indian huts. Then we came to the new 
Cemetery of Bois Marchand, with its glaring red earth and rows 
on rows of graves of the fever victims. Along this route we 
see a range of hills, which is a branch of the Peter Both 
Mountain. The varied peaks are most picturesque, and in the 
distance stands the far-famed giant himself. Seen from this 
point of view, the summit of it presents the appearance of a 
lady in long sweeping robes, and a regal tiara on her head, a 
fair imaginary likeness of Queen Victoria with her sceptre in her 
hand. All is beautiful as we raise our eyes to these heights : 
but lower them to our surroundings, and the contrast is strik- 
ingly disagreeable. The whole foreground is filled with dirty 
Malabar camps, that lie in a waste of long coarse grass and 
wild aloes, with a few stragfi^linof Tamarind or Bois noir trees. 

To the left, as you approach the city, is the Valley des 
Pretres, at the far end of which stands the pretty little Catholic 
Church of St.-Croix, densely shaded with trees. The Latanier 
River, sacred to the Indians, runs through this valley : and there 
are many small gardens where vegetables are grown for the 
market. 

The main Pamplemousses road crosses what were formerly 
the limits of Poit Louis. A line of defence extended from the 
Fanfaron Battery across this road, and terminated in a small 
redoubt on the crest of one of the ridges that branch out from 
the Pouce. Another line ran down the rocky base of the 
Mountain de Decouverte to the Moka Eoad, and the plain 
between this and Fort William (then Fort Blanc ) was defended 
by three redoubts ; but all were more or less dilapidated, even 
at the surrender of the Island in 1810. Now little remains, 



Ch. XXIIL] HOMEWARD. 349 

save a few earthworks here and there, and occasionally a few of 
the old guns are planted in the ground as boundary marks 
round the police stations. 

The change of atmosphere, so perceptible as you near the 
city, is felt on rising the hill at its northern entrance. The 
bustle and din of the docks to our right, the mule-carts m-ged 
along by the loud discordant voices of the Malabars, the cries 
of itinerant vendors of vegetables — ' Bouteilles vides,' ' Gronys,' 
^ Du lait,' &c. &c., all screaming out, told us plainly enough of 
our whereabouts. 

Our long trip was over, and we were not sorry to regain the 
comforts of home. All were delighted with our ramble, and 
we had succeeded in our object of viewing the principal parts 
of the Island, and had added largely to our stores of marine 
plants, shells, specimens of Xatural History, &c., to say nothing 
of the stock of health laid in by breathing so long the cool 
bracing air. 

As I have said before, Mauritius is a country of exceeding 
interest to the geologist and naturalist, and one in which a 
sojourn may be made very profitably for the advancement of 
science. The whole of it, with the exception of a few mountain- 
tops, is accessible. Much of it is wearisome and monotonous 
in the extreme to pass over ; and, beautiful as a cane-field is, 
the eye tires when an endless succession of them is presented. 

None, however, can view the innumerable and fantastic 
peaks, some bare and precipitous, striking boldly against the 
sky, others broken into pinnacles, bulky fragments that seem 
tottering, ready to fall and overwhelm all beneath ; the gorges 
and ravines, the rough work of the long extinct volcano, 
and ever-wearing Time ; the over-hanging rocks, with their 
feathery foliage to the water's edge ; the deep river, or limpid 
stream, both alike hurrying on to be lost in the ocean ; none, 
or very few, I think, can gaze on these without emotions of 
deepest delight. There are soft landscapes, delicious sea-views, 
that will leave pleasant memories for life ; and, though I may 
be far from the ' Grem of the Ocean,' when this volume is 
published, I can never forget the enjoyment I have received 
amongst its glorious old hills, nor will the remembrance of the 
friends who shared my many excursions ever fade. 

I will close this long chapter by quoting the words of one of 



350 



HOMEWARD. 



Ch. XXIIL] 



Nature's true poets, whose verses, though addressed to scenes 
far distant, will admirably express my feelings on the subject, by 
only substituting cane for corn lands in the fourth line : — 

Homeward once again. Ah ! vanished mountains, 
Like old friends, your faces, many a day, 
O'er the bowery woods shall rise before me 
And the level cane lands far away. 

Yet I bear with me a new possession ; 
For the memory of all beauteous things, 
Over dusty tracks of straitened duties, 
Many a waft of balmy fragrance brings. 

Was it thriftless waste of golden moments 
That I watched the seaward, burning west, 
That I sought the sweet rare mountain flowers. 
That I climbed the rugged mountain-crest ? ' 

Let me rather dream that I have gathered. 
On the lustrous shore and gleamy hill. 
Strength to bravely do the daily duty. 
Strength to calmly bear the chancing ill. 




SKETCH OF ISLAMD. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

THE HISTORY OF MAURITIUS, 

From its Discovery by the Portuguese, in 1505, through the various Changes of 
Grovernment it has undergone during its Possession by the Dutch, then by the 
French, and lastly, by the English, to February 1871. 

The Island of Mauritius is situated between the tropics, within 
three degrees of Capricorn, 100 miles NE. of Bourbon and E. 
of Madagascar. Its greatest length is 39 miles, and breadth 
nearly 34. The area is about 700 square miles, the exact 
measurement being given as 432,680 acres. The length of the 
coast-line is about 135 miles. 

It was not until the sixteenth century that the existence of 
this island was known to the civilised world. Don Pedro de 
Mascaregnas, in 1505, during the first year of the administra- 
tion of Almeida, Grovernor-General of the Portuguese posses- 
sions of India, when exploring these seas, discovered this 
and the sister isle ; to the latter he gave his own name, 
and called the former Cerne ; why is unknown, except that it 
might be a fanciful allusion to the Dodo, or to some other bird of 
the same species that he found on its shores. The Portuguese, 
however, did not avail themselves of their new acquisitions. 
They contented themselves with fixing their geographical 
positions, and landing some deer, goats, monkeys and pigs, the 
descendants of which are still found wild, in retired parts of the 
Island. Though they retained the Isle of Cerne till 1598, they 
seem only to have considered it as a simple station for taking 
in refreshments, believing that this route would always be kept 
a secret, and that they had nothing to fear from any encroach- 
ment of other European powers on their monopoly of commerce 
with India. 

On May 1, 1598, a squadron of eight ships, under the com- 
mand of Admiral Wvbrand von Warwick, left the Texel to 



352 HISTORY OF MAURITIUS, [Ch. XXIV. 

repair to the Dutch possessions in Batavia. These vessels were 
dispersed off the Cape of Grood Hope by a violent storm, and 
several of them, including the Admiral's ship, sighted the Isle 
of Cerne on September 17. 

The Dutch, not knowing its name, sent two boats to recon- 
noitre the shores, and discovered a harbour on the SE. Being 
ignorant if the Island was inhabited or not, the Admiral used 
the greatest caution, on account of the sickly state of his crews. 
He landed a large party of his men, and took up such a position 
as to prevent surprise. On the following day, boats were sent 
out to examine the other parts of the Island, and find out if 
there were any inhabitants. His men met with a great variety 
of birds, which surprised them by their familiarity, and the 
facility with which they were taken. They discovered water in 
abundance, and an astonishing vegetation. On the shore was 
found 300 cwt. of bees' wax, a hanging stage, the spar of a cap- 
stan, and a large yard, evidently the relics of some unfortunate 
vessel that had been buried in the waves. They found no other 
traces of human beings. After having returned thanks to God, 
for having brought them to so fair a harbour, the Vice- Admiral 
named the Island ' Mauritius,' after Count Maurice of Nassau, 
then Stadtholder of Holland, and the port ' Warwick Harbour,' 
after himself. 

He left no settlers here, but ordered a board to be fixed to a 
tree, bearing the arms of Holland, and planted a piece of ground 
with vegetable seeds, as an experiment on the soil. A year 
after he returned to Mauritius, and was enabled to supply his 
ships with abundance of fish, fowl, and fruits. 

From this period it does not appear that the Island was re- 
visited till May 12, 1601 when Hermansen availed himself of its 
recent discovery to supply his ship with provisions and water. 

The period at which the Dutch formed their first settlement 
is doubtful; but in 1613 it became the resort of the pirates 
who infested the Indian Seas. This circumstance, and the 
threatening aspect of European affairs, caused the Dutch to 
turn their attention to the Island so long neglected ; but it 
was not till 1 644 that a permanent establishment took place. 

It is said that at this time the SE. port was chosen for the 

first colonisation of the Island. The Grovernor selected was 

Van derMester; who, after a areful examination of there- 



Ch. XXIV.] DUTCH AND MAROONS. 353 

sources of the place, saw that the energies of the new colony 
would be greatly hindered for want of labourers. He therefore 
sent a vessel to Madagascar to buy slaves, in order to supply 
this deficiency. Pronis, the French Grovernor, acceded to this 
proposal, and kidnapped a number of Malagashes, who had 
settled themselves under his protection. This breach of faith, 
which was the ruin of both colonies, was considerably aggra- 
vated in the eyes of the natives, when they discovered that 
amongst the captives were sixteen women of the race of the 
Lohariths (a superior caste). 

Scarcely had they landed at Mauritius, when a great part of 
them escaped to the woods ; and the rest, goaded by their severe 
treatment, soon followed this example. 

It was thus that the body of men called Maroons (i.e. out- 
laws) was formed, which, forced by the pains of hunger and the 
desire of vengeance, was ever on the alert to attack and insult 
its oppressors. 

The Dutch, harassed on one side by these depredators, and 
on the other checked by the parsimony of the East India 
Company, were forced to abandon the Island. 

The Maroons, fearing their return, still kept to their moun- 
tain fastnesses, whence sallying forth on the crews of vessels 
which came to the Island for refreshments, they frequently sur- 
prised and cut them off. 

To remedy these disasters, it was resolved in the Greneral 
Council of Batavia that the Dutch should re-establish them- 
selves in Mauritius. Three settlements were immediately 
formed : one on the NW., another upon the SE., and a third 
upon the Eiviere Noire. M. la Mocuis was named Grovernor. 
State criminals from Batavia and other of the Dutch posses- 
sions were now banished to Mauritius. M. Eodolphe Deodate, 
a native of Greneva, and a man of feeble character, succeeded 
M. la Mocuis. 

The Dutch raised a fort in the SE. called Frederic-Henri, 
which was entirely burnt by the blacks ; but in 1694, it wai. 
rebuilt of stone. This fortress was armed with twenty pieces- 
of cannon, with a garrison of fifty soldiers, and enclosed the 
Grovernor's house, the magazines, and the principal buildings of 
the Company. The planters, numbering about forty families, 
spread over the district of Flacq, where the Company established 



354 HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. XXIV. 

gardens, and drew thence such supplies of fruit and vege- 
tables as were required for the garrison. A few inhabitants 
settled at the NW. port, called ' Camp,' and three or four fami- 
lies went to the district of the Eiviere Noire. Their principal 
occupation was the culture of tobacco. 

Towards the commencement of the eighteenth century, the 
Dutch East India Company, finding that their possession of 
the Island was only a source of continued troubles, resolved to 
abandon it a second time. Their troops were sent to the Cape of 
Grood Hope, and tne occupation of Mauritius by the Dutch 
ceased entirely. 

Mauritius under French Rule. 

The final abandonment of the Island by the Dutch did not 
long escape the observation of the French at Bourbon. M. 
de Beauvilliers, then Governor of that island, sent M. Du- 
fresne, captain of the ship ' Chasseur,' to take formal possession 
of Mauritius, in the name of the King of France, on the 20th of 
September, 1715, and its name was changed to that of Isle of 
France. Notwithstanding this, and the founding of an establish- 
ment at the NW. port (Port Louis), Dufresne departed without 
leaving anyone to maintain the new acquisition ; and it was only 
at the end of 1721 that a permanent settlement was effected. On 
the 25th of September of that year, Le Chevalier Jean-Eaptiste 
Grarnier de Fougerai, commander of the ' Triton ' of St. Malo, 
retook possession in the name of the French East India Com- 
pany, to whom it had been ceded by the King. M. de Nyon, a 
knight of the order of St. Louis, was selected by M. de Beau- 
villiers, in October, to fill the place of Governor, but he did not 
arrive till January 1722. 

He commenced his administration by the establishment of 
a provincial council, composed of six of the principal inha- 
bitants : dependent, however, on the principal council of 
Bourbon. 

M. de Nyon, following the example of the Dutch, fixed the 
seat of government at the SE. port. The only events that 
marked his administration were an attempted sedition by a part 
of the troops, which was soon appeased, and the increased penal- 
ties attached to ' Maroonage,' on account of the number of 
recently imported slaves, who had escaped to the Maroons left 



Ch. XXIV.] UNDER FRENCH RULE. 355 

by the Dutch. On the 26th of August, 1726, M. Dumas was 
chosen Grovernor-General of the two colonies ; but, as his resi- 
dence was in Bourbon, the resources of the Isle of France were 
not developed. The French East India Company were several 
times on the point of giving up a colony that, as affairs were con- 
ducted, was only an expense, but some event always occurred to 
hinder their design. M. Dumas was succeeded, in October 1 728, 
by M. de Maupin, who, like his predecessor, was Grovernor of both 
islands. 

The most violent hurricane till then experienced by the colo- 
nists was felt during his administration, and the terror occa- 
sioned by this disaster was increased by an unexpected irrup- 
tion of Maroons, who drove out the inhabitants of the district 
of Flacq. 

About this time, the East India Company, wishing to render 
the Island of some use, sent out M. de Cossigny, an engineer, to 
make a more minute survey of it. From his report the Com- 
pany saw at once that the position of the Island was advanta- 
geous for commerce with the East. In order to put an end 
to the anarchy and confusion then reigning, and to provide 
means of defence for both islands, in November 1734, Mahe 
de Labourdonnais, who had already visited the Island, was 
named Governor, with full powers to carry out the projects 
of the Company. The stringent measures they ordered him 
to enforce placed serious difficulties in the way of his 
success. On his arrival in 1735, his first care was to ascertain 
the resources of the Island. Finding that the SE. port pre- 
sented no advantages, either as a seat of Grovernment or for 
outward commerce, he resolved to abandon it, and turned his 
whole attention to the NW. port, or Port Louis. One of his 
first acts was to procure letters patent from the King, to confer 
superiority in the Council of the Isle of France over that of 
Bourbon. This was attended with the most successful results, 
as it put an end to the discord prevalent in the two councils 
till this period ; and during the eleven years of his government 
there was but one lawsuit, as he accommodated all disputes by 
his own amiable interposition. 

With great trouble he succeeded in destroying the formi- 
dable band of Marooos, which still spread terror over the Island. 
Of commerce there was scarcely a trace on his arrival. He 



356 HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. XXIV. 

began by planting the sugar-cane, and so successfully, that in 
1750, the sugar works which he constructed produced a clear 
annual revenue to the Company of 60,000 livres. 

He established manufactures of cotton and indigo, for which 
he found a market at Surat, Mocha, Ormuz, and in Europe. 

The inhabitants, sunk in apathy and indolence, had utterly 
neglected the advantages agriculture offered, but the indo- 
mitable energy of the Grovernor at length awoke a spirit of 
enterprise and activity in the people. He induced them to cul- 
tivate the grains necessary to the subsistence of the two islands, 
that they might be no longer subject to the almost periodical 
dearths. He introduced the manioc from St. lago and the 
Brazils, but had great difficulty in overcoming the prejudices of 
the planters against it. There was neither engineer nor archi- 
tect in the Island. Fortunately M. de Labourdonnais united 
both in himself; and, in the face of obstacles few would have 
had the courage to surmount, he carried out his projects for the 
prosperity of Mauritius. Trees were felled, and stone quarried ; 
carts constructed, and roads made, for up to that time transport 
by land was almost impracticable. The only hospital was a 
large hut containing about thirty beds. He ordered the con- 
struction of one in which from four to five hundred beds could 
be placed. 

A detail of all the works erected would be far too long for 
this summary ; suffice it to observe, they consisted of magazines, 
arsenals, batteries, fortifications, barracks, mills, quays, offices, 
shops, canals, and aqueducts. Previous to his arrival, water had 
to be sought at a league from town ; so he caused an aqueduct to 
be constructed nearly six miles in length (the remains of which 
still exist), which was of inexpressible advantage both to the 
inhabitants and ships which touched there for refreshment. 

So ignorant were the people of even the rudiments of ship- 
building, that, to mend their fishing boats, they were obliged 
to have recourse to the ships' carpenters. M. de Labourdon- 
nais, grieved to see an island so neglected, which from its central 
position might be a second Batavia, or at least an entrepot for 
the commerce of the Indian Ocean, and a refuge for the Com 
pany's vessels, directed his genius to the improvement of it' 
maritime advantages. His efforts were rQwarded so well, tha^ 
in a few years there were wet and dry docks, and a ship of wai 



Ch. XXIV.] LABOURDONNAIS. 357 

was built at Port Louis, and sent to France, where it was re- 
ceived with great approval. Ships could be refitted with as 
much facility as at any port in the East. But all these gigantic 
enterprises, and his untiring energy for the benefit of the co- 
lony, only served to excite jealousy and calumny, and his de- 
tractors spared no pains to blacken and defame his character. 
He received little appreciation of his services even from the East 
India Company ; and when obliged to return to France, on the 
death of his wife, in 1740, he foimdso strong a prejudice against 
him from the reports of his secret enemies, that he demanded a 
public investigation of his conduct. This trial was so favourable 
for him, that both the ministers and directors of the Company 
expressed their approbation of his conduct, and refused to 
accept his resignation. As war was then imminent between 
the Eiuopean Powers, he was sent out, on April 5, 1741, with 
a squadron for the East. 

He arrived at the Isle of France in August, and ordered a 
fortress to be erected for the defence of Port Louis, and directed 
the inhabitants to be trained to the use of arms. He departed 
for Bourbon to arrange for the protection of that island also. 
He visited all the dependencies, and gave his name Mahe to the 
chief of the Seychelles group, on his way to Pondicherry. His 
management of affairs there was such as to merit the highest 
approbation, and on his return to his government, in 1742, 
letters patent of nobility were • sent to him from the King. 
But the Grovernor's efforts for the increase of commerce were 
checked by the Company's orders to disarm his squadron. 
In 1744, finding himself obliged to remain in his govern- 
ment, he himself set to work for the internal progress of the 
colony. 

It is needless to enter into detail of the ruinous policy of 
the French in their Eastern possessions, after war was declared 
with England. It is sufficient to say that all the efforts of M. 
de Labourdonnais for their protection were rendered abortive by 
the vacillating conduct of the Company. Still more to disable 
him, an extraordinary drought had occasioned an alarming 
scarcity, and the harvests of the current year were ravaged by 
locusts, so that he was destitute of provisions for his ships of 
war. The ' St.-Geran*,' a large ship laden with stores for the 
island, was wrecked on the Isled'Ambre, in 1745. This disaster 

Cc 



358 HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. XXIV. 

inspired Bernardin de St.-Pierre with his delightful romance of 
' Paul and Virginia ' ; but it struck such terror into the inhabi- 
tants of both islands, that it was with extreme difficulty the 
Grovernor could procure crews for his ships. 

In March 1746, he set sail for India, leaving M. de St.- 
Martin as Deputy- Grovernor, and Baron Grrant was intrusted 
with the military defences. The limits of this short history 
will not allow of our following this great man in his military 
career. On his return to the Isle of France, he found that M. 
David had been sent out to make fresh enquiries into his con- 
duct, and to supplant him as Governor ; but his acts during the 
whole of his administration were found so irreproachable, that 
M. David did not hesitate to deliver to him the order of the 
King, to command the squadron then leaving for Europe. Thus 
terminated the connection of M. de Labourdonnais with the Isle 
of France, which had lasted eleven years — ^years fruitful in 
events of the utmost importance to the colony. Indeed, he may 
be said to be the founder of Mauritius. ' His memory, ' says 
a local historian, ' still remains in every heart ; his portrait is 
in every house, his memoirs in every library, and his statue 
in the Place d'Armes.' 

The government of M. David was of little importance, except 
that the manufactures of cotton and indigo were nearly abandoned 
as failures. In 1748, an attempt was made by the English to 
take thae Island ; but Admiral Boscawen, deceived as to the 
strength of its defences, and the show of resistance, thought 
success impossible with the force then available, and relinquished 
the design. 

M. David was succeeded in 1750 by his brother-in-law, M. 
Bouvet. About this time were sent out, for scientific purposes, 
M. Dapres Mannevillette and the Abbe de la Caille. The former 
became distinguished for his acquirements in hydrography, 
and published a series of charts that have been little invali- 
dated by recent discoveries. 

In 1754 the small-pox broke out, and a severe hurricane 
devastated the Island. 

M. Magon succeeded M. Bouvet in 1755, and began his 
government by a general permission to cut wood ; which was 
done to such a ruinous extent, that in 1761 the East India 
(yompany sent particular directions to the Grovernor to stop 



Ch. XXIV.] POPULATION. 359 

the evil, and actually forbid the stripping the shores of wood 
near the port. 

M. Desforges Boucher, the last of the Company's governors, 
followed M. Magon in 1759. His principal attention was 
devoted to the cultivation of Keduit, which had been founded 
by M. David, and where a botanical garden was begun. 

After all the exertions of M. de Labourdonnais, the Isle of 
France was quite unable to supply sufficient provisions even for 
the inhabitants. The commercial retrospect gives proof of the 
violent restrictions on the part of the Company to every effort 
for the advancement of individual enterprise. All agricultural 
benefits were monopolised. Men were sent out from the mother- 
country who were unused to labour, and who understood nothing 
of husbandry. Lands were distributed at a venture ; and out 
of 149,067 acres ceded, only 6,335 were in cultivation. 

Notwithstanding the arbitrary measures adopted by the Com- 
pany in all the Eastern possessions, the war had so reduced the 
finances that they were obliged to renounce them all, including 
the Isles of France and Bourbon, to meet the demands of their 
creditors; and thus in 1767, the Island reverted to the crown 
of France. 

According to the Abbe Eaynal, the population at this period 
amounted only to 3,163 whites, 587 free people, and 15,022 
slaves. The produce did not exceed 105,7 12L, and about 
twenty bales of cotton : valued in francs as follows, wheat, 
320,600; rice, 474,000; maize, 1,570,000; beans, 142,700; 
oats, 135,500. 

No sooner had the King taken over the Isle of France, than a 
total change was effected in its government. In July 1767, 
MM. Dumas and Poivre were sent out, one as Grovernor, the 
other as Intendant and Commissary-Greneral of the Marine. 

During the rule of the East India Company, the laws and 
customs of Paris were followed ; and when under kingly govern- 
ment, the laws put in force were, first, the customs of Paris ; 
second, those laws and ordinances made for the mother-country, 
which were ordered to be registered and published in the 
colony ; third, the laws and bye-laws made expressly for the 
Island, aud which are comprised in the Code Laleu. M. Dumas 
was recalled at the expiration of a year, and was temporarily 
replaced by M. Steinhaven. The Superior Council was reformed, 



36o HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. XXIV. 

and was composed of those colonists remarkable for wealth and 
intelligence, and soon after became both a legislative and ju- 
dicial body. The governors were enjoined in every case to 
give the preference to native colonists for all public functions. 

The harbour of Port Louis, having been obstructed to such a 
degree as to cause serious inconveniences to the shipping, was 
cleansed and deepened by M. Fromelin. M. Poivre, the Intend- 
ant, had been connected with the Isle of France, by a series of 
essential services, long before his appointment to the newly 
created office. He was an eminent naturalist and philosopher. 
One of his first projects was the transplantation of the spices to 
the Isles of France and Bourbon, the culture of which was con- 
centrated at the Moluccas. 

After great difficulties too long to narrate here, he succeeded 
in introducing the nutmeg and clove, and enriched the Island 
with a large collection of valuable and ornamental trees and 
shrubs procured from the East. 

This was about the time when the power of the Company 
was in decadence ; but when the King resumed the control of 
these Eastern possessions, the ministry pressed the return of M. 
Poivre, as the only man who could repair the disasters that 
had ensued since the time of M. de Labourdonnais ; and, much 
against his will, he was sent out as Intendant, with the cordon 
of St. Michael and letters of nobility. 

He was not long in putting things on their former footing ; 
and such was his activity, that in spite of the two successive 
hurricanes that ravaged the islands in one year (when the 
' Vert Grallant ' was sunk, and the ' Ambulant ' wrecked in 
the pass at Morne Brabant), under his encouragement, the 
produce of both was so increased as to bring in abundant crops 
of maize, rice, and other grains ; and from the resources his 
foresight had provided, he served both troops and fleet that had 
been sent out by the ministers to carry on the war. 

He introduced from Madagascar, the Cape, and India, every 
domestic animal and production suited to the consumption of 
the inhabitants, and imported a number of cattle and sheep to 
stock the Island. 

In 1772 arrived the Chevalier de Ternay and Maillard Du- 
meste, the former as Grovernor, the latter as Intendant, to 
replace MM. Desroches and Poivre. 



Ch. XXIV.] MONSIEUR CERA, Zti 

A weekly journal was established, which the increasing popu- 
lation and extension of commerce rendered necessary. 

The Island was reduced to eight districts, in lieu of eleven, as 
had been fixed by the Ordinance of August 6, 1768. Ad- 
ditional administration and police regulations were also en- 
acted. 

At this time M. Poivre purchased an enclosm-e, at some 
distance from Port Louis, called Mon Plasir, where he formed a 
magnificent garden, containing every plant he could procure 
from both hemispheres. He instructed M. Cere in all the 
details of Asiatic cultivation of the spices he had so successfully 
planted, and soon after ceded the place to the King, for the 
original price he had given for it ; and this became the now cele- 
brated King's Grarden at Pamplemousses. 

M. Cere so well carried out the plans of M. Poivre after his 
departm'e, that he secured the first harvest of cloves and nut- 
megs in 1777. The joy then felt is unappreciable now, as the 
clove-trees propagated in the several districts have all been 
destroyed to make way for the sugar-cane. 

In 1773 a violent hurricane occurred, which laid in ruins 300 
houses in Port Louis ; thirty-two ships were stranded on the 
banks of the harbour, and the church fell in, crushing several 
people in its ruins. 

In ] 744, the powder-mills exploded with great loss of life to 
the military, and the ship ' Mars ' was burned in the harbour. 

M. Ferney, who was much more feared than loved, was 
relieved by the Chevalier de Giran la Brillane, December, 1777. 
Frustrated in all his efforts for the good of the colony, after 
two years of inquietude, he died, and was buried with few marks 
of respect. The Vicomte Souillac, Governor of Bourbon, ar- 
rived on the death of M. la Brillane. The war at this time, 
so far from proving a check to the prosperity of the Island, 
brought a crowd of vessels, which, by introducing abundance, 
changed into luxury the simple manners of the inhabitants. 
Seconded so well by M. Foucault, Intendantin 1777, afterwards 
by M. Chevrau, 1781, and lastly by M. Mortens de Narbonne, 
in 1785, the Vicomte supplied the wants of the squadrons of M. 
Orve and Admiral Suffrieu, and the armies of MM. Duchenian 
and Dubussey so effectually that the attention of the mother- 
country was again called to the importance of the colony. 



362 HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. XXIV. 

The old East India Company was dissolved and a new one 
formed, with the enjoymentof a monopoly of trade between France, 
India, and China. As a special mark of favour to the Isles of 
Bourbon and France, permission was given to the inhabitants 
to trade with the East (mostly benefiting the latter, since it 
alone possessed harbours where ships could anchor in safety). 
Thus the ships of the Company and the two colonies were able 
to navigate the Indian Ocean, to the exclusion of all the other 
French ships. These latter were allowed to convey European 
merchandise to the Isle of France, to be disposed of in the 
East (China excepted). This measure rendered the colony a 
vast entrepot between Europe and Asia, and hence arose a 
sudden and factitious prosperity. Industry was turned to com- 
merce alone, and agriculture was again neglected. The Vicomte 
Souillac sailed for India in 1706, leaving the government in 
the hands of M. de Fleury. The Island had been for thirteen 
years without a hurricane, but this year it was again visited by 
that scourge. 

The latter part of the administration of the Vicomte, and the 
two years of that of M. d'Entrecastreaux, who arrived in 1787, 
were passed in tranquillity, with the exception of a hurricane, 
in which the frigate ' Venus ' perished, with fifteen childi'en of 
the best families, who had embarked for France, sent by their 
parents to finish their education. In 1789, the Comte de 
Conway relieved M. d'Entrecastreaux, and M. Dupuy succeeded 
M. de Narbonne as Intendant-General. 

The power enjoyed by the Governors and Intendants having 
been of late exercised in an arbitrary manner, the inhabitants, 
anxious to free themselves from it, looked forward with impa- 
tience to the news of the French Revolution, which broke out 
in 1789. A vessel from Bordeaux, in 1790, brought the intelli- 
gence of the great power the National Assembly of France had 
usurped to itself. On the landing of the captain, officers, and 
crew who had assumed the tri-coloured cockade, and on their 
relating the occurrences in France, the flames of revolutionary 
violence burst forth in all parts of the colony, and the tricolour 
was everywhere adopted. 

Assemblies were formed to draw up memorials of demands 
and claims, and a most tumultuous meeting took place in the 
church. The Comte de Conway, with all the prejudices of the 



Ch. XXIV.] A REVOLUTION. 363 

old noblesse, made no concessions to calm the popular spirit, 
but sent a party of soldiers to arrest the men who had posted 
up the placards and planted the tricoloured flag, and went to 
the Intendant's house to consult about measures for resistance ; 
but the people rescued the prisoners on their way to gaol, and, 
following the Grovernor, compelled him to wear the national 
cockade. 

Fruitless were all the efforts of the Superior Council to main- 
tain peace and order ; excesses of all kinds were committed, 
ending in the murder of M. de Macnamara, Commandant of the 
French Marine in the Indian Ocean, in the principal street of 
Port Louis. The crime was unpunished, as it was not thought 
advisable to carry out the orders for bringing the perpe- 
trators to justice ; but the horror excited by this bloody out- 
rage, the first that had stained the annals of the Island with 
crime, restrained in a great measiu'e the violence which inun- 
dated France and her other colonies with the blood of victims 
to barbarity and injustice. 

The Comte de Conway, unable to reconcile his principles with 
the feelings of the times, resigned the reins of government into 
the hands of M. de Fleury, July 12, 1790. M. de Malartic 
was named Grovernor-Greneral by Louis XVI., a short time 
before his deposition, and arrived in June 1792. 

He found the two colonies each governed by its particular 
Assembly, whose decrees had the force of laws after receiving 
the sanction of the Governor. The National Assembly of 
France had expressly recognised the new order of things, and 
an attempt was made to effect the gradual removal of abuses by 
three decrees : one of which forbade the mutilation of Maroons 
or fugitive slaves after capture ; the second abolished the trade 
in slaves ; and the third established political equality between 
the whites and free citizens of colour, a class of recent origin. 

The paternal administration of the new Grovernor tended 
greatly to quiet the agitation of the colony ; but the news of 
the dominancy of the Jacobins and the anarchy in France 
again roused the passions of the people. 

In this state of things, the most prudent and influential 
united their efforts with the Governor and the majority of 
the Colonial Assembly ; but they were not able to hinder the 
formation of a Jacobin club, called the Chaumiere, and the 



364 HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. XXIV. 

erection of a guillotine in the public square. The new club 
soon rivalled the constituted authority, and compelled M. de 
Malartic to grant them a sloop to send 100 men to Bourbon to 
arrest M. Duplessis Vigoureux, the Grovernor ; M. Fayal, the 
Civil Commissary ; and M. de St.-Felix, with some others, under 
the pretext that they were in correspondence with the English. 

On the arrival of the prisoners, they were fettered and thrown 
into a dungeon, where they remained six months. Orders were 
given that they should be judged by a court-martial alone, 
named by all the citizens of the colony, united in assemblies 
each in its own district. The delay occasioned by this pro- 
ceeding at length succeeded in putting a stop to the effer- 
vescence of the Jacobins, and the guillotine, undefiled by human 
blood, became a simple Jacobin formality, in happy contrast to 
that terrible instrument of slaughter in France. Before the 
trial could come on, a decree arrived from the Greneral Conven- 
tion, abolishing slavery in all the colonies and dependencies 
of France. In a community of 59,000 persons, where 49,000 
were slaves, such a summary decree, without a word of com- 
pensation, may be well supposed to have created universal 
alarm. 

The Jacobin club was annihilated, the guillotine removed, 
the prisoners released, and about thirty of the principal Jaco- 
bins arrested, and at once deported to France. 

The planters knew not what step to take, believing that if 
the decree were not annulled, similar scenes to the recent 
horrors in St. Domingo were inevitable. Some proposed to 
declare the colony independent, others sought to stay the pro- 
mulgation of the decree. 

M. de Malartic, profiting by the authority he had obtained, 
in reserving to himself the execution of the laws, induced the 
Assembly to pass a resolution by which no laws or revolution- 
ary decrees emanating from France, unless previously examined 
and sanctioned, should be published or executed in the Isle of 
France. While deliberating, four frigates, under Vice- Admiral 
Percy, arrived with two agents from the French Directory, 
named Braco and Brunei. 

The colonists protested against their landing, but in vain. 
Dressed in Dictatorial costume, they landed in state, and pro- 
ceeded to take on themselves the government of the Assembly. 



Ch. XXIV.] A CONSPIRACY. 365 

Before three days had passed, the menacing tone of the 
agents was such as to give serious alarm. They threatened to 
guillotine the Governor, and proceeded to such severe measures, 
that at length it became evident that it was their intention to 
execute the decree for the abolition of slavery and the slave 
trade. 

The inhabitants, awakened to a sense of their imminent 
danger, determined at once to enforce the deportation of the 
agents, and but for the exertions of the Grovernor and others, 
who arrested them and sent them on board under a strong 
escort, they would never have escaped alive. 

A conspiracy amongst the soldiers, to assist in emancipating 
the slaves, gave further trouble ; but the energetic conduct of 
Grovernor (now Greneral) Malartic soon put a stop to it, by 
forcing all the disaffected, to the number of 800, to embark in 
a vessel then leaving for France. 

The colony now looked forward with confidence to a state of 
comparative tranquillity ; but disputes soon arose with respect 
to the laws about to be enacted for the reimbursement of the 
debts contracted in paper currency (bullion not being obtain- 
able), the depreciation of which had increased in such a pro- 
portion as to bear a real value less by a thousandth part than 
the sum it nominally represented. In the melee of discordant 
interests, the Colonial Assembly endeavoured to adopt a mode 
of payment founded on just principles, when the creditors 
entered into a conspiracy with the Sans-culottes, and a number of 
lawless adventurers, to dissolve the Assembly. 

In November, 1799, the conspiracy broke out, and, for a 
time. Port Louis bore the appearance of a civil war. 

The insurgents at length, in spite of the bravery and spirit 
of the President of the Assembly, Citizen Jour n el, forced the 
Grovernor to sign the arrest of twelve members, and eventually 
to dissolve the Assembly ; and it was only after grievous 
outrages had been committed that order was restored. 

The Assembly was then reformed, and the members limited 
to twenty-one, instead of fifty-one as formerly. 

From 1794 the French squadron had been incessantly engaged 
with English ships of war in the Indian seas, nearly always with 
success to the former. This may be attributed to the shelter 
afforded by Port Louis to shipping, and the resources for the 



366 HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. XXIV. 

equipment and victualling ships of war, wliicli enabled Percy 
Linois, Bergeret, Hamelin, Duperre, and other enterprising 
French officers to inflict incalculable injury on the British. 

In 1798 the taxes began to suffice for the interior expenses 
of the Isle of France, as the Assembly established a Custom-house 
to receive a tax on importation, from five to ten per cent, on 
all merchandise brought to the colony by neutral ships : the tax 
was reduced to two-thirds for French vessels. 

On the 20th of July, 1800, the day of his anniversary, at the 
moment he was going to church, the Grovernor was seized with 
apoplexy, from which he died two days afterwards, having held 
the reins of government through eight stormy years. He was 
universally regretted, for he had won, by his sagacity and firm- 
ness, the esteem and affection of the inhabitants, under the 
most trying circumstances. Even the English squadron, then 
on a cruise before the Island, while the colony paid the last 
tribute of respect to its chief, proposed a suspension of arms ; 
and the vessels, hoisting the national standard, thus honoured 
the death of their brave adversary, with whom for six years 
they had waged a murderous warfare. His funeral was cele- 
brated with the greatest pomp, and his remains deposited in the 
Champ de Mars. The Assembly decreed that a suitable monu- 
ment should be raised, with the inscription ' Au Sauveur de la 
Colonie.' It was not, however, until the administration of Sir 
William Gromm that it was completed ; Lady Gromm, by means 
of a fancy fair, having raised sufficient funds for its erection. 

Greneral Magellan de Moliere was proclaimed Grovernor on 
the death of M. de Malartic. 

After the establishment of Consuls in France, M. de Cossigny, 
the ex-deputy, was sent out to take charge of the powder 
mills, and it was supposed that he had a secret mission to effect 
the emancipation of the slaves ; but when the Governor refused 
assent to the demands for his departure, the Assembly resigned 
to a man, and in 1801 M. de Cossigny left voluntarily. In 
the same year took place the resistance to the decree of the 
Home Grovernment to purge France by sending away its most 
violent characters to places in the Indian seas. A law was voted 
by the new House of Assembly, punishing with death any 
convict who should set foot on the Isle of France. 

The year 1802 saw an end to the fears as to the abolition ol 



Ch. XXIV.] GENERAL DECAEN. 367 

slavery, as a law was passed by Buonaparte re-establishing the 
trade in slaves. News of peace arrived, and with it also the ex- 
pression of the First Consul's disposition to the sister isles, which 
was so flattering, that the act which proclaimed him Consul for 
life was received with the greatest transports of joy. In Septem- 
ber 1803, hopes of peace were dissipated by the arrival of General 
Decaen, who took possession of the government, dissolved the 
colonial assembly, abolished the whole existing system by a 
proclamation of twelve lines, and promulgated the new consti- 
tution formed for the colony by the Consuls, in virtue of which 
all the executive legislation and judicial powers were com- 
mitted to three high functionaries, styled the Captain-General, 
Colonial Prefect, and Commissary of Justice. 

General Decaen changed the name of the Port North-West to 
that of Port Napoleon, and that on the South-East to Port Im- 
perial. It was with difficulty he could get this change acceded 
to by either soldiers or citizens, as the Emperor had expressly 
forbidden any town been called after him. However, the 
General persisted in using the new names, and actually got a 
decree from the Court in France sanctioning them. 

In 1809, when the injuries sustained from the French had ex- 
ceeded all bounds ; when the East India Company complained, 
on the one hand, of the loss of their ships, and the merchants, on 
the other, could no longer be slighted ; when the British Navy, 
everywhere else triumphant, could not succeed either by blockade 
or by bringing their ships into action, the Indian Governor re- 
solved on the conquest of the colony. Since the departure of the 
Marquis of Wellesley from India, who had long before insisted 
on this step in all his Despatches, it had been procrastinated, 
which may be owing in a measm-e to General Decaen's using every 
endeavour to conceal the real state of the defences. A detach- 
ment of the 56th Eegiment, with a large body of Sepoys, was 
sent, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Keating, early 
in 1806, to take possession of Eodrigues ; and in September, a 
successful descent was made on St. Paul's, at Bourbon. Go- 
vernment stores were destroyed to the value of a million ster- 
ling, and a large booty carried away. 

The first attempt to land in the Isle of France was made at 
Black Eiver and Jacotet. After a long and brave defence, in 
spite of every obstacle, a landing was effected, the batteries 



368 HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. XXIV. 

dashed upon, and in less than ten minutes taken possession of; 
the troops put to flight, and their officers and guns in the hands 
of the assailants. It was then found imperative to take the 
battery on the Souillac side of the Eiviere des Gralets, which 
was almost impassable from the strong current caused by heavy 
rains, and the precipitous and strongly guarded banks. It 
was, however, crossed without loss, and the party, giving three 
hearty cheers, charged with the bayonet, and carried the hills 
and batteries in the most brilliant manner. After destroying 
the gun carriages, spiking the guns, and removing the field 
pieces on board the frigate, the English carried off a schooner, 
and re-embarked, with the loss of only one man killed and seven 
wounded. In the succeeding months attacks were made on 
Belombre, and the post of the Cap de Savane, but with little 
success. 

Bom'bon also was abandoned, as the force there was not con- 
sidered strong enough to retain possession of the island. In 
June 1810, a force of 4,000 men was sent from Madras to Eo- 
drigues, to be employed later against the Isle of France. Mean- 
time they all attacked Grrande Chaloupe and Ste.-Marie ; and on 
the 9th of July, the Island surrendered, and M. E. T. Farquhar 
was left, with a great portion of the troops, as temporary 
Governor. In the next month, Captain Pym, of the ' Sirius ' 
frigate, succeeded in gaining the Isle de Passe, a coral islet in 
which was a circular battery and barracks, distant about a league 
from the mainland, defending the entrance to Grrand Port. A 
series of successes to the British arms followed; but their progress 
was suddenly checked by the loss of the two East Indiamen, the 
' Wyndham' and ' Ceylon, ' on their passage to India from the 
Cape, which were taken by the French squadron off Mayotta. 

The tide of victory which had so lately set in, almost unbroken, 
in favour of Britain was completely turned ; disaster followed 
disaster, as if the expiring genius of Gallo-India power should 
emit one flashing ray previous to its utter extinction. On the 
20th of August began a murderous conflict off the Isle de Passe, 
one of the most disastrous to the English they had ever expe- 
rienced. 

It only ended with the capture of the frigates 'Sirius,' 'Nereide,' 
and ' Iphigenia,' and the loss of the ' Magicienne,' which was 
set on fire to prevent its falling into the enemy's hands. 



Ch. XXIV.] ATTACK ON THE ISLAND. 369 

The Isle de Passe was retaken, and prisoners to the number 
of 100 naval and military officers, and 2,600 soldiers and sea- 
men, were taken into Grand Port. 

The French pledged themselves to forward their prisoners in 
a month to the Cape, or to send them home on parole ; instead 
of which, the officers were treated with the greatest hardship, 
and even some ladies, taken on board the Indiamen, were 
imprisoned. Flushed with success, Greneral Decaen, after the 
battle of (xrand Port, considered the French naval force 
sufficient to destroy the remainder of the British squadron, 
stationed at Bourbon, and to render unavailing the immense 
preparations at Eodrigues for the subjection of the Island. 

Several other desperate sea-fights occurred, with great loss of 
men, but little permanent advantage on either side. While 
these various successes and reverses were going on by sea, the 
colonists could not be blind to the fact, that the British were 
meditating a most powerful attack on the Island. To aid the 
apathy and cover with indifference the exhausted patience of 
the more quietly-disposed inhabitants, the exactions of the 
rulers, and the impoverished state to which the colony was 
reduced, forcibly contributed. Public credit had fallen so low 
that the Colonial Intendant could not raise money under his 
official guarantee, unless his clerks endorsed his bills. 

Although the preparations at Eodrigues were well known, 
they were treated with indifference ; and the signals which 
announced, on the morning of the 26th of November, 1810, the 
approach of twenty-four vessels met with few hostile prepara- 
tions on the part of the inhabitants. But the number of sail 
augmenting, the former warlike spirit of the people was roused, 
and orders were sent to all the districts to hold themselves in 
readiness. On the 28th seventy-six sail were in sight. 

The great obstacle opposed to the attack on the Island was 
the difficulty of landing, in consequence of the coral reefs which 
surround every part of the coast. By the indefatigable exertions 
of Commodore Eowley, assisted by several Madras engineers, 
this hindrance was removed. 

Every part of the leeward side of the Island had been 
minutely examined and sounded, and it was found that a fleet 
might anchor in the narrow passage formed by the small island 



370 THE DEBARKATION. [Ch. XXIV. 

called the Grunners' Quoin and the mainland, and that there 
were openings for boats through the reefs. 

The point of debarkation considered most favourable was 
Grande Bale, or Mapou, about seventeen miles from Port 
Louis. The troops, to the number of 10,000, landed before night- 
fall without opposition. The fleet was directed to maintain 
the blockade of Port Louis, protect the convoy at the anchor- 
age, and to keep up a communication with the army on shore. 
By daybreak the troops were on their march, with the intention 
of delaying no more till they arrived at Port Louis ; but at 
noon Greneral Abercrombie was forced to halt his men at Powder 
Mills, about seven miles from the Port, for they were exhausted 
from want of water. Here a small picquet was cut off in the 
woods by a party sent out by Greneral Decaen to reconnoitre. 
Lieutenant-Colonel McLeod seized upon the batteries of Tom- 
beau and Tortue, and thus kept open communication with 
the fleet. The French endeavoured to destroy the bridge at 
Riviere Seche, but were prevented in time, so that the soldiers 
were enabled to pass, though they had great trouble in dragging 
the guns through the rocky bed of the river. 

The enemy's line supported itself on the east of Peter Both 
Mountain, extending nearly parallel to the wood, at a distance 
of nearly 200 paces from it. The French force there consisted 
of 3,500 men, with several field-pieces, under Greneral Vander- 
massen. The chief force of Greneral Decaen remained within 
the lines. Several sharp skirmishes took place before the head 
of the column, under Lieutenant-Colonel Campbell, of the 33rd, 
had emerged from the wood, and formed with as much regularity 
as the broken nature of the ground would permit. Exposed to 
a storm of grape, the grenadiers were next formed, and, being 
supported by all the flank companies of the reserve, they rushed 
to the charge with great spirit. 

The French waited till they were within fifty paces, when 
they broke and precipitately retired, leaving the field -pieces in 
possession of the English. 

This advantage, however, was purchased with the life of 
Lieutenant-Colonel Campbell, and Major O'Keefe, of the 12th, 
both excellent officers. A corps now ascended the mount, and 
pulled down the French standard, hoisting the English one, 
with hearty cheers. In the course of the forenoon, a position, 



Ch. XXIV.] CAPITULATION, 371 

in front of the enemy's lines, but beyond cannon-range, was 
occupied by the British. 

The heat of the weather and fatigue of the men prevented 
further action till the morrow. 

The French were disturbed by a false alarm of an attack, 
during which the irresolution of the National Guard, taken in 
conjunction with the appearance of a reinforcement of troops, 
which disembarked in safety at Petite Eiviere, induced Greneral 
Decaen to propose terms of capitulation. He sent a flag of 
truce to the outposts, which did not prevent the progress of 
arrangements for a general assault. Many of the articles 
appearing inadmissible to both naval and military commanders, 
Greneral Abercrombie gave orders for a general attack on the 
following morning. Upon this, Greneral Decaen offered to 
revise his propositions ; and, finally, he was obliged to accede to 
the terms of the British — nothing less than the complete sur- 
render of the Island, which was ratified on the 3rd of December. 

On the same day, at six o'clock, the grenadiers marched into 
the lines, and occupied the principal batteries of Port Louis ; 
while the fleet took possession of the forts and roads ; and the 
French squadron was subsequently given up to Admiral Bertie, 
by order of Greneral Decaen. The inhabitants awaited with the 
deepest inquietude the arrival of the British troops in the town, 
anticipating scenes of pillage and disorder ; and it is not easy 
to express their surprise, when they beheld 20,000 men, flushed 
with victory, enter without molesting a single individual. 

A few instances occurred of foraging parties unscrupulously 
taking possession of cattle, but orders were at once given for 
compensation to be made to the sufferers. 

The next day the shops were all open, displaying their finest 
wares ; hotels and canteens were crowded ; the most perfect 
harmony prevailed amongst the sailors, soldiers, and inhabitants 
— no one would have supposed it was a city only the day pre- 
viously in a state of siege. 

A few days after. Port Louis resembled a vast bazaar, where 
Indian and European met for trade, the only difficulty being 
ignorance of each other's language. Three Company's vessels 
were loaded at once for London with coffee, sugar, pepper, and 
other merchandise that had been lying for years in store. 
Ships in the harbour, unable before to land their goods, were 



372 GENERAL REJOICING. [Ch. XXIV. 

now able to do so, and to dispose of them at a fair price. The 
amount of money in circulation the first month after the 
capture was incalculable. The Treasury was turned into a 
bank, where everyone could get accommodation to send to any 
part of the world. Credits were opened with Europe, India, 
and China ; and it may well be imagined that the impulse 
given to commerce, after the circumscribed state it had been in 
for some time, induced the people to look with complacency on 
their conquerors. Their flag was changed, but so little else for 
a long time, that the change of masters was scarcely felt. 

On the 5th of December, Mr. E. Townsend Farquhar, having 
taken over the government, issued his first proclamation, 
informing the inhabitants that the civil and judiciary adminis- 
tration would be carried on as before. 

In this proclamation the olji names, Isle Maurice, Port Louis, 
and Grrand Port, were substituted for Isle de France, Port 
Napoleon, and Port Imperial, and they have ever since retained 
them. 

The office of Intendant was abolished, and the Grovernor 
united in his own person the executive and legislative powers. 
The principal part of the officials were allowed at their option 
to remain in office ; a permission of which most availed them- 
selves. The utmost liberty was given to all enterprises. Those 
who received pensions under the French Grovernment were 
invited to produce their titles, and, after examination, were 
continued on the list. 

On the 20th of December another proclamation was issued, 
calling upon all the inhabitants to take the oath of allegiance 
to the King, which at first caused gTeat alarm ; but the mild 
measures and conciliatory tone adopted by the Grovernor soon 
laid aside the mistrust and prejudice between the English and 
French ; and it was not long before matrimonial alliances were 
formed between the colonists and the new comers. After four 
months of administration, Mr. Farquhar was ordered to hand 
over the government of the Isle of France to Major-Greneral 
Henry Warde, and to assume that of Bourbon. 

On the 8th of April, 1811, Greneral Warde, in notifying his 
appointment, stated his being named by the King Governor of 
Mauritius ; and from that period the name of the Isle of France 
has ceased to exist in all official records. Few changes took 



Ch. XXIV.] GOVERNOR FARQUHAR. 373 

place ; but the Governor insisted on everyone taking the oath 
of allegiance, and threatened all who did not comply before the 
18th of April with forced departure from the colony. 

He re-established the Colonial College, which had been taken 
temporarily for a hospital during the attack on the Island. 

Balls, soirees, amusements of all kinds followed, and at these 
reunions English and French alike enjoyed the festive season ; 
and the anniversary of the King's birthday, the 4th of June, 
was numerously attended by both nations. 

On July 11th, Mr. Farquhar received new commands to re- 
sume the reins of government ; and a few days after his return 
he announced free trade with the Cape, which had been pro- 
hibited in May preceding. 

Several aliens having refused to take the oath of allegiance,, 
new orders were issued to do so or leave the colony. Strict 
measures were taken to preserve the vaccine virus, as vaccina- 
tion had recently saved the Island from the disastrous effects of 
the small-pox which had broken out. 

In 1812, the first races were run in Mauritius, under the 
direction of Col. Draper, who was a member of the Jockey Club* 

The month of January, 1813, is remarkable for the publica- 
tion of the Act abolishing the slave trade, and the suppression 
of the premium given to the proprietors of slaves killed when 
Maroons, and an increase granted for every Maroon caught alive. 

Hydrophobia made its appearance this year, and its first 
victim was the son of an influential proprietor, M. Gronderville. 

In April, Mr. Farquhar named in Port Louis Commissaries 
with police attributes ; but few persons were willing to accept 
the office. In July a Colonial Bank was established, but soon 
after suppressed. 

In 1813, Lord Moira, Grovernor-General of India, diuing a 
sojourn in the Island, laid the first stone of the present Catholic 
Church, clad in his masonic robes, and attended by all the 
masons of all the lodges.^ 

In 1814, when Louis XVIII. remounted the throne of France, 
Mauritius was definitely ceded to Grreat Britain, and Bourbon, 
under the same treatyj was restored to France. 

' This is a curious fact, when we remember a late Catholic Bishop refusing to 
admit persons who were masons to receive the Sacrament in that very church, and 
even excommunicated two gentlemen who would not consent to quit their lodges. 

Dd 



374 PLOTS AND TROUBLES. [Ch. XXIV. 

A proclamation was issued about this time to close Port Louis 
harbour to the ships of all foreign nations. 

On the sudden arrival of Napoleon in Paris, plots were laid 
to gain possession of the Island for the Emperor. 

An insurrection, headed by M. Perrat, was discovered at 
Grrand Port, and matters threatened to assume a serious aspect : 
but the prompt measmres of the Grovernor succeeded in quieting 
the conspirators, and the disorders ceased on the defeat of 
Bonaparte. 

The year 1816 is memorable for the diplomatic and commercial 
relations entered into between the Mauritian Grovernment and 
Radama, King of the Hovas, who, from a petty chief in the 
north of Madagascar, had gradually extended his authority over 
the greater part of the island. Two sons of Radama were sent 
for their education to England. The King himself engaged to 
suppress the slave trade on payment of a subsidy ; he offered 
advantages to mechanics and others who would reside in his 
dominions. Civilisation was advancing with rapid strides when 
death cut short his career. 

In September a fire broke out which destroyed a great part 
of Port Louis, causing distress to such an extent that the 
Grovernor at once issued a Provisional Act, suspending all civil 
and judiciary proceedings. 

Food and clothing were supplied, and money advanced from 
the Treasury to aid the burnt-out proprietors. That education 
might not be delayed, the Grovernment maintained at school the 
children of those who had severely suffered by the fire. A vast 
and commodious market was built, and stalls in it assigned to 
those who had no place to display their goods. 

Two brigades of firemen, with engines and all accessories, 
were at this time established. 

In December the Grovernor laid the first stone of the Quays 
that now surround the harbour. 

Complaints having been made at home, Mr. Farquhar obtained 
leave of absence ; and taking with him all the principal archives 
of the colony to afford information, and accompanied by Baron 
d'Unienville, amidst the profound regret of all classes, he 
embarked for England November 19, 1817, leaving the reins of 
government in the hands of the senior military officer, Major- 
General Hall. 



Ch. XXIV.] A TYRANNICAL GOVERNOR. 375 

His first official act of note was to annul the disposition ot 
(rovernor Farquhar in favour of the Society of Arts ; in conse- 
quence of which its fate was sealed, and for years it was un- 
heard of. 

The year 1818 is memorable for a terrific hurricane, followed 
>by an epidemic sore-throat, that carried off victims from all 
classes of society J 

At the beginning of this year, Commander Purvis, of the 
' Magicienne,' seized the Hamburgh, American, and French 
vessels then in port, under the pretext of infringement of tlie 
navigation laws. 

The case was, however, dismissed by the Commissary Justice, 
Mr. Smith, greatly to the displeasure of the G-overnor, who 
soon after turned out Mr. Smith from his post, and took that 
office on himself. 

He then suspended Col. Draper, Collector of Customs, on 
account of the part he had taken in trying to prove the inno- 
cence of the proprietors of the above-mentioned vessels, of 
contravening the laws by landing goods from foreign vessels. 

The year was marked by continual troubles from the tyranny 
of the Grovernor ; but a new spirit infused itself into all classes 
when orders came from home for the General to leave ; and on 
the 10th of December, Lieut.-Col. John Dalrymple was received 
with every manifestation of joy as temporary Grovernor.^ 

' An address was presented by the principal inhabitants to the Major-General. 
suggesting measures for repairing the great damages done by the hurricane, and 
remedying some of its worst effects, and offering to second the G-overnraent in any 
scheme that should be proposed for alleviating the distress. But he was too busy 
to heed their supplications, being engaged in sending out his emissaries after 
new slaves reported to him as having been landed, and spies to arrest those he 
suspected of evading the laws, then being put in force, as to slaves and slave- 
holders. 

When he replied, instead of sympathising with the people in their calamity, he 
wrote, ' Instead of writing to him with a pathetic story about the misfortunes of the 
country, it would be far better to put an end to the infamous commerce in slaves.' 

' What do you complain of?' he writes of hurricanes, why you are better off than 
the Antilles, for they get one every year. You fear famine? open subscriptions, 
and get provisions for the unfortunate ; or rather open the shops of the rice 
monopolisers, and rice won't be wanting !' and for the future, he advised them to 
keep their advice to themselves, and not trouble him with it. 

2 General Hall not only undid, as far as lay in his power, the beneficent acts of 
Sir R. Farquhar, but in all his despatches home he vilified the colonists and tried 
to influence the Government against them, but fortunately without success. 



376 THE SLA VE TRADE. [Ch. XXIV. 

In the year 1819, the Island was visited by three violent 
hurricanes. In February, Maj ox-General Ealph Darling was 
proclaimed Grovernor. 

In November, the cholera suddenly broke out in Port Louis, 
and spread with terrible rapidity to the country districts. It 
continued its ravages till April in the following year, and 
carried off nearly 12,000 persons. 

On the 6th of July, 1820, Grovernor Farquhar, arriving with the 
title of Baronet, resumed the administration, and expressed his 
intention of carrying on all his former measures for the welfare 
of the colony — a task not easy of accomplishment, from the 
constant dissensions between the late Grovernors, the Council, 
and the people, and the financial difficulties he found resulting 
from the recent scourges that had so severely afflicted the colony. 

In January 1821, the Common Council was dissolved ; Port 
Louis was re-opened to foreign trading vessels under certain 
restrictions ; the Dyot Canal was finished, and the present 
Bathurst Canal was begun ; and in June the new Theatre was 
opened. 

After having rendered many important services to the colony. 
Sir E. T. Farquhar retired, and was succeeded, in May 1823, by 
Sir Gralbraith Lowry Cole. 

A local historian speaks of his departure as a misfortune 
severely felt. During his government the resources of the co- 
lony were greatly developed, and commerce revived ; and the 
manner in which he endeavoured to heal the wound inflicted by 
the separation of the colony from France is worthy of all com- 
mendation. 

In 1823, a resolution was passed in Parliament for the intro- 
duction of a progressive system of amelioration in the state and 
condition of the slaves in the British Colonies, and this with the 
avowed intention of abolishing later altogether the slave trade 
— that social anomaly in the dependencies of a professedly free 
country. 

From the time the first idea of abolishing this traffic was 
mooted, there appears to have been a rebellious feeling ever 
surging up amongst the colonists. 

As a preliminary step, a fixed and inflexible rule was esta- 
blished, that the immediate representative of His Majesty, as well 
as chief magistrates and other officers, administrative and judi- 



Ch. XXIV.] SUGAR. 377 

cial, should not directly nor indirectly be possessed of slaves, or 
land cultivated by slave labour, or of mortgages on such estates. 
The directions to this effect bear date 1824. 

Then was shown how sturdy a resistance was to be expected 
in those countries where slavery had been encouraged for cen- 
turies ; as all views tending to emancipation were looked on as 
chimerical and ruinous. 

An Act of the highest import to the colony was passed, in 
June 1825, by the Imperial Parliament, permitting the impor- 
tation of the products of the colony into the British markets ; 
and this admission caused everyone to turn his attention to the 
culture of sugar, to the neglect of all others.* Letters patent 
were sent out to ordain a Council, to consult with the Grovernor 
and assist him in the administration of the government ; and 
from this period the laws were no longer in the shape of pro- 
clamations, but ordinances of the Governor in Council. 

In 1826, the Bathurst Canal was completed, thus giving the 
town a plentiful supply of water. 

In 1827, a Chamber of Commerce was established, the presi- 
dent of which was to be a Government officer. In February 
1828, the streets were re-named, and houses numbered ; and 
petitions sent to Government, begging to have the town 
lighted, in consequence of the night robberies becoming so 
frequent. 

In June, Sir Lowry Cole was succeeded by Sir Charles Col- 
ville, K.C.B. 

In November, the Chamber of Commerce was reformed, and 
was to consist of twelve members ; three of the dignitaries to 
be elected by a general meeting of the commercial body. 

•In 1829, an Order in Council was promulgated, abolishing all 

• This, which was in reality a valuable privilege if used with prudence, became 
from its abuse a source of endless trouble to the colony. '"S 

Nearly the whole colony embarked in the most hazardous speculations ; lauded 
estates acquired double and triple value; the Creole imagination of the inhabi- 
tants became heated to such a degree, that there was no price to which landed 
property could limit itself : the wildest extravagance and luxury were the conse- 
quence. England and India poured forth their millions, which were expended on 
this rock. 

At length these moments of prosperity reached their term : a contraction was 
perceptible, and the illusion vanished — failures, bankruptcies, foreclosures, 
unusual distress, the entire destruction of credit, and all the long list of evils that 
ever follow in the train of mercantile speculations conducted on false principles. 



378 ENGLISH AND FRENCH. [Ch. XXIV. 

the distinctions existing between the whites and free citizens of 
colour, and enjoining that the births and deaths of both should 
henceforth be registered in the same books. 

An attempt was made to introduce Chinese and Indian- 
labourers, but with so little success that they were sent back to 
their own countries. 

Numerous dissensions arose, after the death of King Radama, 
between the governments of Madagascar, Bourbon, and Mau- 
ritius, but they were soon amicably arranged. 

In the year 1830, the colonists resolved, after long delibera- 
tion, to despatch an agent to lay their claims before the Home 
Grovernment for* more liberal concessions ; and Mr. Adrien 
d'Epinay was chosen, and left for England on the 10th of October. 
He returned the following year, and reported that he had been 
favourably received by Lord Goderich, the Secretary of State. 

The creation of a legislative council, half the members to be 
chosen from the principal merchants and proprietors, and 
liberty of the press, which till then had been under the censor- 
ship of the Secretary of State, were among the first results of 
his mission. 

About this time a gradual estrangement was taking place 
between the English and French ; and so far from time enfee- 
bling this alienation, it assumed day by day a new energy, and 
all the efforts of Sir Charles and Lady Colville to bring about a 
better feeling amongst all parties were unavailing. 

In 1832, new laws were enacted for regulating the duties of 
masters and servants. 

At this time -an attempt was made to bring about the 
emancipation of the slaves, which roused the fears of the people 
to such a point that the whole Island was in commotion. To 
suppress an expected movement amongst the slaves a Volunteer 
Corps was fgwned. 

In June, Mr. Jeremie was sent out as Procurem* and Advo- 
cate-General, to arrange for the emancipation, but the people 
refused to allow him even to take his seat in the council.* The 

• An eye-witness thus describes the state of the town, the morning after Mr. 
Jeremie's arrival: — 'Every third person was armed in the streets; Port Louis 
rather resembled a citadel than a commercial town. The Bazaar was cleared of 
produce, the shops closed, the cart and boat establishments refused to work.' The 
committee of the malcontents had drawn up a resolution that no business should 



Ch. XXIV.] VALUATION OF SLAVES. yj^ 

most violent scenes ensued ; and the distin'bances only ceased 
when the Grovernor consented to send Mr. Jeremie out of the 
Island. 

On the 31st of Januaiy, 1833, Sir William Nicolay became 
G-overnor in the place of Sir C. Colville, who had requested per- 
mission to retire to England. 

On the 4th of February Sir William Nicolay published an 
order in council, directing the dissolution of the Volunteer Corps. 
Colonel Draper, and Mr. Virieux, President of the Supreme 
Com't, were suspended for the part they had taken in the pro- 
ceedings against Mr. Jeremie. In April, that General returned, 
with the 9th Regiment, and entered the same day on his func- 
tions of Procm'eur and Advocate-Greneral. 

In May, a proclamation was issued for all persons to give 
up their arms. On June the 19th, notice was given that all 
situations, including those of the learned professions, would 
henceforth be reserved for British subjects, or persons becoming 
so by treaty ; and a few days after, by another notice, a know- 
ledge of English was made a sine qua non for employment in 
the service. 

The rest of the year was passed in plots against the Govern- 
ment, and in consequent arrests. 

The year 1834 opened with the publication of an Act memo- 
rable to all ages — the abolition of slavery in all the King\« 
dominions. 

But the laws respective thereto were to remain in force till 
February 1st, 1835 ; and from that date, all persons aged six 
years, duly registered, would become apprentice labourers, and 
continue so till February 1st, 1839, for those non-attached. 

The year 1835 began by the arrival of Indian labourers from 
Calcutta for the plantations. 

The first stone of Fort Adelaide, on the Little Mountain, was 
laid by the Governor. 

In February the commission of indemnity began the valuation 
of slaves, and in December, the mode of division was made 

be done, no taxes paid, that the courts should he closed, and no attention paid to 
police orders. This was circulated everywhere, and acted on to the letter. After 
Mr. Jeremie was sworn in as a Privy Councillor, the press unanimously refused to 
print it. 



38o THE EX-SLA VES. [Ch. XXIV. 

known. Mauritius received 2,112,632^. for 68,613 slaves, about 
an average of 69Z. 14s. 3(i. each. 

In 1836, the Port of Mahebourg was opened for trading 
vessels, and a weekly post was established between it and Port 
Louis. 

On the 29th of August, Mr. Jeremie was dismissed from his 
post, and very soon after left the colony. 

On the 1st of January, 1837, the Savings' Bank was es- 
tablished ; and on the 9th was laid the first stone of the Orand 
River Suspension Bridge. In 1838, Indian immigration was 
again suspended ; and the Commercial Bank opened. In 1839, 
when the apprentices were freed, a general disorganisation took 
place, the ex-slaves refusing to work, and the streets of the town 
were crowded with them. 

On the 20th of February, 1840, Sir W. Nicolay took his 
departure, and Col. Power succeeded for the short space of five 
months. 

During this time a committee was formed and blended with 
its predecessor, under the name of the ' Free Labour Associa- 
tion,' for facilitating the introduction of labom'ers : it was 
presided over by Capt. Dick, Colonial Secretary. On the 16th 
of July, Sir Lionel Smith became Grovernor ; and the principal 
events of importance dming his government were — M. H. 
Adams received letters of natm-alisation, the first who had 
enjoyed that privilege in Mam'itius ; and the Home Grovernment 
refused to allow immigration from the coast of Africa. 

In July 1841, it was announced that the English text of 
all laws published in the colony would be the only legal version. 

On the 2nd of January, 1842, Sir Lionel Smith died suddenly 
at Reduit, and in three days was followed by Lady Smith. 
Until the arrival of the new Governor, the senior commanding 
officer, Lieut.-Col. Stavely, was appointed as Acting Grovernor. 

Little of interest took place at this time, if we except the 
severe financial embarrassment in May and June. On the 21st 
of November, 1842, Sir William Gromm arrived ; and it required 
stringent measures on the part of Grovernment to allay the 
ferment caused bv the difficulties on all sides from the immense 
amount of small paper notes the banks had been putting in 
circulation. The premium on gold at this time had risen to 
20 per cent., and on silver to 12 per cent. 



Ch. XXIV.] TAMATAVE BOMBARDED. 381 

Sir William took considerable interest in the cause of im- 
migration, and obtained leave to introduce 6,000 labourers 
annually, also a large number of Indian women, which had 
never been permitted previously. 

In 1844, he m'ged upon the inhabitants to plant provisions 
for their men, to meet the frequent emergencies when the price 
of imported goods was so high. 

In May an auto-da-fe was made of the notes of the Committee 
of Finance, but so carelessly that large bundles were rescued 
from the flames to pass again into circulation. In 1845, a 
despatch was published authorising the Grovernment to send 
to England yearly the pupil who had most distinguished 
himself. 

A contagious epidemic broke out amongst the cattle, and 
raged for months, till it was feared that the whole bovine race 
would disappear. Upwards of 12,000 cattle and 6,000 pigs, 
besides goats, were swept away. 

At this time the commercial body signed a convention to 
accept the rupee at the uniform rate of two shillings, the former 
value being only one and tenpence. 

Affairs in Madagascar were in a very unsettled state. The 
widow of Eadama, Eanavalona Manjaka, followed just the 
opposite course of policy to that of the late king. So far from 
encouraging settlers, she expelled the missionaries, and prohib- 
ited Christianity. Extortions to the greatest extent were prac- 
tised on foreigners, and a peremptory order was at last issued 
for all strangers to depart. 

Time was refused them even to arrange their affairs, and 
matters were carried so far that the Grovernment was obliged to 
interfere. Captain Roily, of the ' Conway,' was sent down to 
protect the British subjects, and he was joined by a French 
man-of-war, under command of Commodore Romain Desfosses. 
Persuasion and entreaty being alike in vain to obtain time for 
the settlers, orders were given to bombard Tamatave ; but it 
was so well defended, that the attacking force was quite un- 
equal to its conquest, and had to retire, leaving behind even 
its dead. 

Eanavalona then ordered all trade to cease, which caused 
great distress in Mauritius, as Madagascar was the principal 
source whence cattle for the market and agricultural purposes 



382 CENSUS. [Ch. XXIV 

were brought — distress doubly felt on account of the late 
murrain. 

Trade also suffered, as cotton goods, cutlery, and iron ware 
all found a good market there. 

Ample details of the whole affair were sent to England, and 
Sir W. Gomm even recommended that a sufficient armament 
should be sent out to subdue the island. 

Possibly it might have been attended to but for the Vxews 
and claims of the French, and political events in Europe soon 
absorbed the project. 

In 1844, the new system of manipulating sugar by the 
vacuum-pan was introduced and effectually established on the 
Labourdonnais and Phoenix Estates. By the adoption of this 
valuable discovery the quality of the sugar was so much raised 
that Mauritius could then compete with any country in the 
world. About the same time another improvement called the 
' Wetzell,' after its inventor, was introduced by M. Huguin. 

In 1846 a peculiar blight attacked the sugar-canes, destroying 
thousands of acres of the white cane. 

This calamity was in one respect useful, as it •caused a more 
careful cultivation of the plant, and greater attention in 
choosing the canes, as it was proved that not a red cane was 
touched. 

In this year a census was taken of the people, with the 
following result : — 







Males. 


Females. 


General Population . 


. 


30,148 


25,331 


Ex-Apprentices „ . 


. 


28,142 


21,223 


Indian . „ 


. 


48,935 


7,310 



107,225 53,864 

The first stone of St. Thomas' Church, at Plaines Wilhems, 
was laid by Lady G^omm in 1845, and opened for divine service 
on October 1846 ; and Sir William laid the first stone of St. 
John's, at Moka, the same year ; and both contributed largely 
to these edifices. 

The patent slip of Messrs. Scott and Murray was begun this 
year. 

The great crisis which shook the whole commercial world at 
this time terribly affected Mauritius. 

All the principal mercantile houses stopped payment. A 



Ch. XXIV.] CURRENCY. 383 

petition was sent to the Queen setting forth their grievances ; 
the principal result of which has been ever since felt in the 
reduction of the salaries of almost all the subordinate officers of 
Government, the abolition of minor situations, and a general 
reduction of taxes. The immigration stamp-tax on Indian 
engagements was abolished ; and many important items were 
either abandoned or greatly reduced to such an extent, that 
the revenue suddenly fell to so low a figure that the Secretary 
of State gave orders for the re-establishing of the stamp-tax at 
once. 

Sir William took deep interest in the cause of education. K 
number of Grovernment schools were established and sup- 
ported at its expense. An ordinance was also passed, setting 
aside a sum to be paid annually into the Treasury for Chm*ch 
building purposes. 

The representative committee at last perceived a favourable 
prospect, from the energies aroused by their correspondence with 
England, in favour of immigration, steam commimication, and 
elective bodies. 

The present currency of Grovernment notes was prepared 
during the last months of Sir William's administration. 

The overland mail of February 1849 announced that Sir 
William was appointed Commander-in-chief of the Indian Army ; 
and his Excellency embarked for Calcutta, leaving the govern- 
ment in the hands of Lieutenant-Colonel Blan chard, who was 
only a month in office, and was followed by Lieutenant-Colonel 
H. Lewis Sweeting, who in tm'n gave place to the new Governor, 
Sir George Anderson, who arrived on the 8th of June. 

He at once set to work energetically, and issued a proclama- 
tion to all the inhabitants to assist him in the administration 
of government. A draft of ordinance was laid before the Council 
by the Governor, for allowing three years' engagements of 
labom-ers, and was passed at once. 

On the 1st of September our present currency of notes was 
issued ; an arrangement having been concluded with the Com- 
mercial Bank, by which the pecuniary affairs of government 
were to be carried on from that date. 

At the end of this year an ordinance was passed to constitute a 
municipal corporation ; and the preliminaries were carried on so 
rapidly, that on the 4th of March, 1850, the Governor notified 



384 SUPREME COURT. [Ch. XXIV. 

that he had selected, as the first Mayor of Port Louis, Louis 
Lechelle, Esquire, and Felix Koenig, Esquire, as his Deputy. 

This year was ushered in by great changes in the Coiu'ts of 
Justice. The Supreme Coui't was to consist of one chief Judge 
and two or more puisne Judges, which court was invested with 
the powers of the Queen's Bench, and made a court of equity. 
District Courts were also established, trial by juiy introduced, 
and many other judicial ordinances were passed to be put in force 
in 1852. This year the 'turbine,' the greatest improvement in 
sugar making since the steam-engine, was brought into use in 
the colony. 

A petition was presented to the Grovernor, in June, for the 
erection of lighthouses on the coast, to avoid the repeated 
disasters and shipwrecks from the shoals and currents. 

Sir Greorge was occupying himself with many matters of 
public utility when he received news of his appointment to the 
Grovernment of Ceylon, and he left Mauiitius, to the infinite 
regret of all parties. 

Major-Greneral Sutherland was appointed Acting Governor 
October 19, but his brief administration offers nothing of in- 
terest. 

In January, 1851, Mr. James Macauley Higginson arrived 
in the colony from Ceylon, where he met Sir Gr. Anderson, and 
doubtless their conferences aided him greatly in carrying 
out the important measures planned by Sir George before his 
departure. 

A project was set on foot at this time to introduce the culture 
of the silkworm, and it was proved that silk of a very superior, 
quality could be produced here ; but the apathy of the working 
classes rendered all such attempts futile. The first question to 
which the Governor directed his attention was to procure free 
labourers from the coast of Madagascar, to make good the 
deficiency of the labour market. The next measures were those 
of steam communication, and the extension of the limits pre- 
viously fixed for the annual introduction of labourers from 
India. 

By a new enactment, a provision of 500^. was allowed to the 
Mayor, whose services were previously gratuitous. 

By this time the financial difficulties, so serious during the 
latter part of Sir W. Gomm's government, began to improve 



Ch. XXIV.] GAS INTRODUCED. 385 

so much from reaction and increasing prosperity, that there 
was now a considerable surplus in the hands of Grovernment. 
The Grovernor advised using part of this for opening up new 
roads into the interior ; but to accomplish this he proposed 
plans that did not meet with general approbation, and they 
thus proved in a great degree abortive. 

At this time Mr. Wilson, manager of the Cape gas works, 
visited the colony, and obtained a concession of land for esta- 
blishing a gasometer for lighting the town with gas, in place 
of the dull oil lamps that alone glimmered in the extensive 
and only city of Mauritius. 

Propositions were made for a regular monthly communica- 
tion with England by steamer, and the Council voted 1 2,000^. a 
year as a subvention, for a period not exceeding five years ; 
Messrs. Blythe Bros, having proposed to establish the line. 

The year 1852 began with the new judicial changes, by which 
local courts were established, and the present organization of the 
Supreme Courts, nearly as planned by Sir Gr. Anderson, were 
put into operation. 

The trade with Madagascar was temporarily renewed, and 
petitions were presented to the Grovernor to take measures to 
try and adjust the difference that had existed since the rupture 
at Tamatave. 

Arrangements having been made with the G.S.S. Company, 
the first fine steamer, the ' Queen of the South,' arrived after 
a passage of forty-three days. 

In August the first annual report of the Meteorological 
Society was published. 

The year 1853 began by an appeal of Mr. Tropier to the 
inhabitants for funds to erect a monument to M. de Labour- 
donnais. The G-overnor headed the list, and a subscription was 
quickly raised, but it was not till some years later that it was 
erected. The prospects of the colony brightened more and 
more, and the mail steamers succeeded each other regularly. 

The question of lighthouses progressed to a solution, and 
there was every appearance of a renewal of the Madagascar 
trade, the Grovernment offering to advance the required indem- 
nity. 

The Governor occupied himself with innumerable matters for 
the progress of the colony ; but his health and sight began tt> 



386 THE FREEMASONS, [Ch. XXIV. 

fail, and as a sea voyage was recommended, he went by the 
mail steamer to Seychelles, leaving Greneral Sutherland to 
replace him in his absence. On the 11th of September, on the 
return of His Excellency, commissioners were sent to Mada- 
gascar, and all differences were amicably adjusted, the ports re- 
opened, and trade in cattle, rice, mats, cloths, &c. was renewed. 

In April 1854, the G-overnor's health still declining, he left 
for England, and Greneral Sutherland was again left in charge. 

At this time broke out serious dissensions between the Koman 
Catholic clergy and the Freemasons, the former refusing to 
administer the sacrament to any of the order. During the ad- 
ministration of Greneral Sutherland, the island was visited by 
sorrow and desolation. The cholera broke out in the prisons 
of Port Louis, and once outside the walls it spread with such 
alarming rapidity, that the inhabitants of the city fled on all 
sides. 

During the progress of this terrible plague, almost every 
family had to bewail the loss of some member of it, for it spared 
neither rank, nor age, nor sex. 

Amongst the most universally regretted were Dr. Eogers 
and the Eev. Mr. Banks, who fell victims to their untiring 
devotion, wherever their services could avail. 7,650 persons 
were carried off. 

Greneral Hay succeeded in January 1855, and held the reins 
for the remaining six months of the leave of absence of the 
Grovernor. 

Sir Herbert de Lisle, a highly talented man, Grovernor of the 
sister island, spent a short time in Mauritius in May, and on 
his return carried with him the pleasantest souvenirs of his 
visit. 

In July a second patent slip was erected by Mr. Prout, and 
it was at once in full activity. 

On the first day of Mr. Higginson's return, it was notified by 
letters patent under the great seal, dated November 1854, that 
Mauritius and its dependencies were erected into an episcopal 
see and diocese, and that the Eight Eeverend Vincent William 
Eyan, D.D., who arrived on the 18th of June, was appointed the 
first Bishop thereof. 

During the absence of the Grovernor in England, he had 
actively employed himself in the interests of the colony, both 



Ch. XXIV.] IMMIGRANTS. 387 

in respect to immigration and steam communication, and with 
favourable results. 

Small-pox visited the island severely this year, which was 
introduced in consequence of imperfect or too brief quarantine. 

In November a large meeting took place to petition the 
Queen to allow the French language to be used in the courts, 
and all judicial and administrative Acts; and in December a 
counter petition was got up, asking for the optional use ot 
both the French and English languages. At this time the 
new lighthouse on Flat Island was at last completed, which 
added greatly to the safety of foreign vessels entering the 
harbour. 

The year 1856 opened with the most brilliant prospects, as 
sugars increased in prices past expectation ; but during this year 
the borer made its appearance in the canes, and has since 
done much mischief in the plantations. 

By despatches in February, the Secretary of State approved 
of two pupils being sent home by the colony from the Royal 
College, and being educated there at Grovernment expense ; 
also authority was received for the local Grovernment to enter 
into a contract with Messrs. Menon and Co. for a steam postal 
communication between Mauritius and Aden. 

There being no proper quarantine station, in March the 
colony was again invaded by cholera, some vessels arriving with 
the disease on board. 

The immigrants were landed at Gabriel Island, and under- 
went the severest hardships and sufferings from want of shelter 
and provisions ; and as there was constant communication" 
between Grabriel and Flat Islands, the cholera was soon brought 
to Port Louis. The first death in hospital occurred on the 6th of 
March, and the dire plague did not cease till the 7th of June, 
when its victims numbered 3,532. Soon after the Government 
voted 55,000^. for quarantine accommodation at Flat Island 
and Cannonier's Point. 

In 1856 Dr. Ulcocq, being in England, brought to the serious 
consideration of the Secretary of State the advisability of a 
railroad in the colony. On the 27th of December the steamer 
' Governor Higginson ' left Port Louis on her first voyage to 
Aden ; and on the 27th of January, 1 857, it arrived with the 



388 A PROSPEROUS YEAR, [Ch. XXIV. 

mails, and thus proved tliat the route by Aden was the most 
prompt and advantageous for the colony. 

This year may be considered one of the most prosperous ever 
experienced in Mauritius. 

In the month of May the Council voted 1,000L to be supplied 
to the establishment of a Sailors' Home, subject to a like sum 
being raised by voluntary contributions. 

On the 26th of June the most favourable news was received 
from Europe, announcing a large rise in the staple product of 
the colony, just as they were about to harvest the largest crop 
ever grown, and the removal of the interdiction to immigration 
from India. In this month was laid the first stone of the 
Protestant church at Pamplemousses by Lady Higginson. The 
happy news from England was, however, speedily followed by 
tidings of the revolt in India, which spread momentary dismay, 
and caused the principal provision of the labourer, rice, to 
rise from 14s. to 21s. in forty-eight hours, everyone rushing 
to procure a supply, as if the island was menaced by a 
famine. 

The new Mauritius Dry Dock was publicly opened on July 13th, 
in presence of the Grovernor and the most influential members 
of colonial society. 

About this time it was recommended by the chief medical 
ofl&cer that coolies should only be brought from Madras and 
Bombay, as they would be more likely to be healthy than those 
brought from Calcutta. On the 10th of September his Excellency, 
now Sir James Higginson, K.C.B., left the colony, accompanied 
by his family. 

Sir James was replaced for the few days intervening between 
that date and the 21st by Major-Greneral Hay, when Sir 
William Stevenson arrived, and received the government from 
his hands. 

This gentleman, born of one of the best planter's families in 
J amaica, began his political career in that country by resigning 
his office as puisne judge rather than involve the Grovernment 
in disputes on his behalf, a sacrifice of position to principle 
so well appreciated by the Crown, that later he was appointed 
Superintendent of Honduras. His singular capacity for business, 
and his unrivalled administrative abilities, were thought so 



Ch. XXIV.] POSTAL SERVICE. 389 

highly of in Downing Street that they procured him the 
Government of Mauritius. 

On presiding for the first time in the Legislative Council, he 
traced out the programme of his projects ; and they embraced 
public institutions, material and intellectual wants, finance, 
agriculture and commerce, education, sanitary measures, immi- 
gration and postal communication ; and the promises then held 
forth were well carried out in the execution. 

The two subjects to which His Excellency first turned his 
attention were immigration and the postal service. 

He succeeded in gaining what had been refused to his prede- 
cessors — liberty to engage labourers in India for five years' 
service on the estates, a most important measure for the 
planters ; and he encouraged an abundant supply of labour to 
develope the resources of the colony. 

The next step was to change the irregular overland postal 
service into a well-organised arrangement, guaranteed by con- 
tract with the P. and 0. Company. 

At the earnest solicitation of the inhabitants, he applied for 
a skilful engineer to indicate the beat lines for railways, and to 
estimate their cost and revenue. 

He thoroughly re-organised the police force, which was till 
then a disjointed, incomplete, and undisciplined service. A 
police court was established, and stipendiary magistrates for the 
districts, a great boon for both planters and Indians. 

The fullest enquiries were made into the system of education 
at the Eoyal College ; and he upheld the new rector, who with 
determined, though too hasty, hand had tried to rectify the 
abuses caused by the negligence of his predecessors. 

He founded the Orphan Asylum at Powder Mills, and with 
Lady Stevenson gave it great encouragement. 

A vast improvement was made in Grovernment schools, and 
almost the last time he appeared in public he promised a prize 
of 50^. from his private purse for the most -successful examina- 
tion at the training school for teachers. 

His repeated advice was to put Port Louis in a condition to 

repel the irruption of epidemics, and he went largely into the 

question of sanitary reforms. Well would it be now for 

]\Iauritius had his counsels been carried out ; it might perhaps 

Ee 



390 KING RADAMA 11. [Ch. XXIV. 

have saved thousands from the hecatombs of victims slain by 
the present fever scourge. 

Grreat reforms took place in the Civil Service, and he devised 
plans for the better division of district hospitals, from which 
complaints were brought to his notice. 

He personally visited them to see that the evils were rectified ; 
and touched with the zealous labours of the sisters of charity 
elsewhere, he aided in gaining their services for the sick in the 
hospitals. He took a warm interest in scientific progress. The 
Meteorological and Arts and Science Societies, botanical gar- 
dens, &c., are deeply indebted to his lucid and practical ideas 
on all subjects connected with them. 

Under his auspices the Young Men's Association was formed, 
and he delivered an address to them which displayed remark- 
able talent, and was full of the sterling eloquence so peculiarly 
his own. 

Commerce and agricultm^e received every attention from 
him, particularly the latter, in which he always evinced great 
pleasure when attending to its details. 

He upheld the Municipal Corporation, though attempts were 
made to turn popular feeling against him by the most 
unfounded accusations of carelessness of the public welfare ; 
but, conscious in his own integrity, his calm attitude, and the 
moderation, tolerance, and loyalty he displayed, disarmed all 
adversaries, and conciliated all parties. 

He strictly enforced the quarantine laws, the subject at that 
time of endless controversy. 

On the death of the Queen of Madagascar he sent a mission 
to King Eadama II., congratulating him upon his acces- 
sion to the throne, and upon the liberal policy he had decided 
to pufsue towards foreigners. The gentlemen of the mission 
were received with every honour by the king, and it was hoped 
a new era for Christianity and civilisation had begun in 
Madagascar. 

This able and esteemed Governor was attacked on January 
4th, 1863, with dysentery, which soon assumed a serious 
character, and on the 9th he breathed his last. The health of 
His Excellency was failing for some time before his death. The 
previous hot season, with an epidemic raging in the island, and 
much anxiety, correspondence, and care thence arising, had 



Ch. XXIV.] DEATH OF THE GOVERNOR. 391 

already greatly tried his strength, and his sensitive, nervous 
system and kindly heart. 

It is believed that, but for this excessive and wearying appli- 
cation to duty, without adequate relaxation and repose, the 
dysentery which caused his death would not, humanly speak- 
ing, have proved fatal, but for the prolonged and insidious 
operations of the above-mentioned debilitating agencies. His 
remains were brought from Eeduit to Port Louis, and thence a 
large concourse of the inhabitants, in spite of an incessant rain, 
accompanied it to St. John's Church, Moka. 

Addresses of the deepest sympathy were forwarded to Lady 
Stevenson, who, only a few weeks previously, had received 
the heartiest congratulations on the birth of a son. 

When the news arrived in Downing Street, the Duke of 
Newcastle wrote to Greneral Johnson, then acting Grovernor : — 

' I have received with the deepest sorrow and regret your 
despatch, marked " separate," of the 24th of January, reporting 
the death of the late Grovernor of Mauritius. 

' Looking to the services which Sir W. Stevenson had rendered, 
and those which he was capable of rendering, had his life been 
prolonged, there is no possible event by which the Colonial 
service could have sustained a greater loss. 

' He had evinced in the administration of his government 
a pure public spirit, unbiassed for a moment by any personal 
feelings or considerations, great administrative ability, untiring- 
energy, and a devotion to laboiu', unfortunately carried to an 
excess, and leading at last to the sacrifice of his life. He was 
one of the most able, zealous, and honourable men with whom 
official life has brought nae into contact. 

' I have, &c., * 

'(Signed) Newcastle.' 

The affairs of G-overnment were left in such good working 
order by the late Grovernor, that Major-Greneral Johnson, the 
senior officer in command, had little difficulty in carrying out 
his plans for general improvement and progress. 

In April 1863 the project for a Credit Foncier was set on 
foot, and M. de Manteuil was sent to Europe, by subscription 
of the planters, to obtain the assistance required in the way of 
capital. 



392 DR. A YRES. [Ch. XXIV. 

News was in May brought from Madagascar, threatening to 
destroy the new alliance between the English and that country. 
On the 1 2th instant King Eadama was strangled by the Hovas, 
and at the same time all his ministers shared the same fate. 

Immediately afterwards, Queen Eaboda, his wife, was placed 
on the throne, with the title of Queen Easoerina. Later intel- 
ligence allayed the fears this tragic act axoused, as the queen 
was said to have expressed her wish to continue the friendly 
relations between herself and foreign nations, and to carry out 
the treaties lately entered into. 

About this time a low sort of fever broke out, commonly 
known as the Bombay fever, and carried off a great number of 
Indians on the estates. 

In this month died also Dr. Philip Bernard Ayres, after a 
short illness. He arrived in Mauritius, January 1856, as Super- 
intendent of Quarantine and the improvement of its laws : 
the excellent accommodation for Indians, and the Lazarets at 
Flat Island and Cannonier's Point, are mainly due to his earnest 
representations. 

At the time of his death he was intent on writing a Flora of 
Mauritius, and each moment he could snatch from professional 
business was devoted to botany ; but death prevented the com- 
pletion of this work. 

Little of interest took place till November 26th, when Sir 
Henry Barkly arrived with the prestige of the experience gained 
by having governed two important British Colonies in the West 
Indies, and that of Victoria in Australia, which gave great 
hopes of his competence to hold the reins of a Grovernment 
composed of such diverse and discordant elements as those that 
existed in the Mauritian population. 

On the morning of his arrival, the new Grovernor took the 
oath, and the same day the usual proclamation was issued, 
calling upon the inhabitants and servants of the Crown to co- 
operate with him and aid him in carrying out all projects for 
the welfare and progress of the colony. 

On the 2nd of December His Excellency held a levee, which 
was numerously attended, and the Chambers of Commerce and 
Agriculture presented him with addresses that were well 
received, and frankly and favourably replied to. 

Sir Henry lost no time in inspecting the line of railway, then 



Ch. XXIV.] CREDIT COMPANIES. 393 

nearly completed, and expressed his approbation of the works. 
He visited some of the principal estates of the Island, and 
^tudied for himself the pros and cons of that vexata qucestio, 
differential duties, and others of vital importance to the planters. 

It need scarcely be said with what hearty welcome the 
Governor and his lady were everywhere received in his progress 
through the island. 

In January 1864 an Embassy was sent from the Court of 
Antananarivo, Madagascar, consisting of two officers of the 14th 
and 15th Honowes Eainiferuigia and Rainandrainandriana, and 
a Protestant clergyman as interpreter, to the Courts of England 
i nd France. 

At this time the offer of Messrs. Hanna, Donald, and Wilson 
was accepted by the Municipal Corporation, to light the town 
of Port Louis with gas. 

On the 21st of May the northern line of railway was opened, 
and a large party left town for Grrand River, SE., where an 
inaugural breakfast was given at Beauchamp Estate by the 
Grovernment. 

Two Credit Foncier Companies were now in full operation, 
which it was hoped would be of great assistance to the planters. 
Three companies were formed, two in London and one in the 
colony. They offered money for thirty years, to be repaid in 
capital and interest at 10 per cent, premium. The introduc- 
tion of this alleviation to industry, and encouragement to the 
landed proprietor, was publicly celebrated, as not only those 
who borrowed were benefited, but all estates and land acquired 
a more solid and certain value. The commercial crisis in 
England checked the operations of these companies ; but the 
money already advanced greatly aided agriculture and com- 
merce to tide over a difficult moment, when the produce 
market was declining and crops reduced. On the 18th of August 
the Messageries Imperiales steamer ' Ermine ' opened the new 
line from Reunion and Mauritius to Suez, thus giving a 
second postal communication per month. 

A new Protestant church for the Bengali population was 
consecrated by the Lord Bishop of Mamitius, the erection of 
which was mainly due to the benevolence of one of the most 
influential members of the Chambers of Commerce and Agri- 
culture. 



394 THE INUNDATIONS. [Ch. XXIV. 

In January 1865 steam was first applied here to the printing 
press by Mr. Channel, the enterprising editor and publisher of 
the ' Commercial Grazette,' the only English newspaper in 
Mauritius. 

A terri ble calamity occurred in the following February. After 
several days of heavy rains, on the evening of the 12th, a torrent 
rushed down the mountains above Port Louis, and meeting the 
streams of the town, formed a vast expanse of raging waters 
violently seeking an outlet into the sea. The whole of the 
lower part of the town was inundated ; private houses, shops, 
sugar stores, all were buried under a thick residuum of mud, 
entailing heavy losses of property, and in many instances of 
life. A complete stagnation of business ensued ; the railways 
were stopped for a time, as the whole of the rivers in the island 
overflowed, and did considerable damage in the country, but 
not to the extent of that in town. 

The total losses were estimated at three-quarters of a 
million of dollars. 

Grreat complaints were made to the Municipality and Grovern- 
ment about the sanitary condition of Port Louis, as its state 
was such that should cholera or any epidemic break out it 
would to a certainty ravage the place. 

Dr. Edwards, who had been sent out as chief sanitary 
inspector, was urgent as to the measures that ought to be 
adopted to lessen the death-rate, then at far too high a figure. 
According to his estimate fever was fast becoming endemic, 
and therefore more formidable than cholera. 

A petition was forwarded to Her Majesty in the name of 
the Council, praying that goods and passengers might be 
conveyed to and from Seychelles in foreign vessels, as up to 
this time the trade was entirely restricted to British coasting 
vessels. 

News arrived from Madagascar confirming the signing of the 
treaty with England at the capital, where great rejoicing took 
place. 

This treaty provided for a consular office at Tamatave, with 
power over all British subjects ; consuls and agents to reside in 
the dominions of the contracting powers. 

Exports and imports (except spirits) to pay ten per cent. 
The exportation of cows and timber prohibited, and the 



Ch. XXIV.] FINE RAILWAY BRIDGES. 395 

importation of munitions of war to be the exclusive right of 
the Queen of Madagascar. 

British ships to have free entry into all ports, and to be 
assisted in case of shipwreck, and protected against plunder. 
The English were to have full power of purchasing land, 
renting and leasing houses, and trading everywhere in the 
island, except the three holy cities. The utmost toleration in 
religion was accorded, the tolerance to extend to Malagash 
converts. 

The whole treaty was highly satisfactory, and gave equal 
advantage to both countries. 

In answer to the Grovernor's proposition, the Secretary of 
State authorised a special appropriation of 1,000L to be 
expended, under the sanction of the Governor in Council, in 
payment of stipends to missionary clergymen or catechists 
capable of teaching Christianity through the medium of any of 
the languages current amongst the Indian immigrants. 

On the receipt of the news of the assassination of President 
Lincoln, of the United States of America, a letter was sent to 
Mr. Mellen, the United States Consul, from the Grovernor and 
Council, expressing their detestation of the deed, and their sym- 
pathy with the American people and Mrs. Lincoln in their 
bereavement ; and it was answered by the Consul in the most 
flattering terms. 

In October the Midland Line of railway was opened, which 
passes over several handsome bridges ; one in particular, the 
Grrand Eiver Bridge, is a splendid specimen of its kind, and dis- 
plays what science can do in conquering difficulties, and would 
be a triumph of art in any capital of Europe, combining light- 
ness and elegance with solidity. 

An important concession was made to the Eoyal College by 
the University College of London, through the exertions of 
His Excellency, to the effect that the students should be per- 
mitted to obtain their B.A. degree without the necessity of 
leaving the colony, conditionally on their passing a rigid 
examination there. For a long time affairs at the college had 
given the greatest discontent from the unpopularity of the 
rector ; and at last an enquiry was entered into on his conduct, 
with but little effect, and nothing but his removal from office 
seemed likely to place matters on a different footing. 



396 METEOROLOGY, [Ch. XXIV. 

Education generally was, however, making rapid strides. At 
the annual distribution of prizes it was mentioned that in 
1857 there were only twenty-four Grovernment schools, but that 
in eight years they had increased to forty-fom', entirely sup- 
ported by Grovernment, and fifty-three assisted by grants in aid. 

On the 9th of November, the anniversary of the birthday of 
H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, the first lighting of the town with 
gas was celebrated by an illumination at Government House and 
the Place d'Armes, and since then the principal streets of Port 
Louis have had the miserable cocoa-nut oil lamps replaced 
by gas. 

The year 1865 was a trying one to the colony. The borer 
in the canes, disease, and unfavourable weather brought short 
crops. The inundation causing such extensive damage and 
stagnation in business ; rice and provisions for animals becoming 
excessively dear, in consequence of the famine in India, and 
thus heightening the planter's expenses, at a time when sugars 
were falling in prices, all threw a gloom over the closing year. 

So many large failures ensued amongst the planters and 
merchants, that at one time there were twenty-four fine estates 
in the market at once, at the moment when money was very 
scarce. 

The indefatigable and talented secretary to the Meteorolo- 
gical Society, Mr. Meldrum, left for England, to carry out the 
purpose of making Mauritius the reliable centre of meteoro- 
logical and magnetic observations in the Indian Ocean. He 
intended visiting the great observatories of Europe, in order 
to render the new one designed to be built in Port Louis as 
complete and convenient as possible. The great luminaries 
Humboldt, Herschel, Fitzroy, and others had always marked 
out Mauritius as the most desirable station for a fixed land 
observatory. Another object in view was to examine the new 
delicate standard instruments for some time waiting him in 
England, destined for the new observatory. 

The inauguration of the statue of Mr. Adrien d'Epinay took 
place in the presence of the Grovernor and Lady Barkly, and a 
large concourse of spectators, including the elite of the Mau- 
ritian community. 

When the statue was unveiled, the Mayor, deputy-Mayor, 
and others eloquently described the career of the patriot, and 



Ch. XXIV.] PRISON DISCIPLINE. 397 

then His E.scellency addressed the assembly, and expressed the 
heartiest sympathy with the grateful conduct of the people of 
the colony to their once fellow-citizen. 

A visit was paid to Flat Island by the Grovernor and a large 
party of officials to examine a convenient place for laying an 
electric cable from this island to Port Louis, a distance of 
seven miles, a measure calculated to be of great advantage to 
the shipping interest, and particularly to the quarantine 
station. 

A difficult operation in mechanical science was successfully 
performed, which demonstrated the resources and ingenuity of 
Mauritius. The ' Egmont,' Captain Inglis, bound for Victoria, 
Vancouver's Island, arrived with the telegraph cable on board, 
which was to complete the ' girdle round the earth ' by uniting 
the continents of Asia and America at Behring's Straits. 

The vessel met with heavy gales off the Cape in the memo- 
rable storms of the 22nd to the 25th of June, and was so sti-ained 
as to leak alarmingly, and put into Port Louis for repairs. 
The whole of the 275 miles of cable had to be discharged, 
and in a comparatively short time the ship was efficiently 
repaired, and the cable re-shipped without the slightest injury. 

The last months of 1866 were marked by drought, which did 
so much mischief to the plantations as to preclude all hopes of 
a fair crop in 1867. The great reduction of crops in 1866, and 
the certainty of a still fiu'ther one in 1867, seriously affected 
the colony, and rendered necessary important modifications in 
the estimates of the revenue for 1867, as the customs, internal 
revenue, and railways all declined in their receipts. 

In the meantime many social benefits had accrued to the 
colony. 

Prisons and prison discipline had been improved, sanitary 
laws remodelled, and medical care rendered available to the 
labouring classes. A reformatory school was projected, the 
Orphan Asylum and other benevolent institutions well main- 
tained, and both Catholic and Protestant clergy were zealous to 
spread religious instruction over the Island. 

The Union Steam Company's ships replaced the P. & 0. 
Company satisfactorily ; the central railway station was com- 
pleted, and electric telegraphs commenced on each line of rail- 
way. Jurisprudence received considerable improvement in 



398 CHURCH ASSOCIATION, [Ch. XXIV. 

some important items ; amongst others a law was passed to faci- 
litate taking evidence in cases of abduction of children ; and 
another to abolish judicial mortgages. Commerce too had its 
share of the consideration of the Council ; an ordinance was 
passed regulating imported goods ; another remedied abuses in 
collecting debts at Eodrigues ; and a third extended the disci- 
plinary powers of the Chamber of Brokers. 

The distillery laws were amended, and a draft ordinance in- 
troduced to establish reformatory schools. 

Immigration in 1866 was on a comparatively limited scale, 
but quite equal to the requirements of the planters. A medical 
pharmaceutic society was formed, its regulations permitting 
of deliberations on every branch of medical and scientific 
study. 

The president appointed was Dr. C. Regnaud, and the society 
was formed of all the medical faculty in the island. 

The Church of England Young Men's Association was reopened 
by a lecture delivered by Sir Henry Barkly, on English litera- 
ture, which united a comprehensive and erudite view of the 
subject with attraction enough to keep a large audience atten- 
tive the whole evening. 

The intense heat and the continued drought at the beginning 
of the year encouraged the spread of the fever, which had been 
insidiously making its way through Port Louis and the sur- 
rounding districts for some time ; and the death-rate steadily 
progressed, till it reached the enormous figure of 200 'pev diem 
in Port Louis alone. The prevalence of this epidemic put a 
stop to trade with the exception of articles of absolute neces- 
sity. The position of affairs was greatly aggravated by a total 
want of quinine. A small quantity was brought from Bourbon, 
and realised ,^135 per oz. ! The humane foresight of the Gro- 
vernor greatly alleviated this trouble, as he addressed de- 
spatches to the Grovernors of Madras and Ceylon, requesting 
them to send supplies of quinine, which were quickly re- 
sponded to. 

Hospitals, dispensaries, depots for provisions, every effort the 
Municipality could make, did not keep pace with the rage of 
the epidemic, which devastated all classes of society. The effects 
of it were almost too terrible to relate ; 10,000 perished in 
the month of April alone. The banks and public offices, courts 



Ch. XXIV.] PUBLIC STATUES. 399 

of justice, railways, nearly all were at a standstill for want of 
hands. 

Everything that could be done by the Grovernor, officials, 
clergy, and men of property was done ; but in the presence of 
such overwhelming misery, with thousands of widows and 
orphans left destitute, all their efforts fell short of the necessi- 
ties of the case. 

In June the statue of Sir W. Stevenson was inaugurated at 
Grovernment House. 

A salute was fired from the citadel as it was unveiled, and an 
address was delivered by Sir H. Barkly, well setting forth the 
claims of the good and great man to the country's gratitude. 
His Excellency was followed by Sir Grabriel Tropier, the Hon. 
E. Pitot, Mayor of Port Louis, and others ; and all joined 
their testimony of respect and esteem to the public and private 
virtues of the late Grovernor. 

This statue, as well as that of Mr. A. d'Epinay, was the work 
of a young creole sculptor, Mr. P. d'Epinay, whose remarkable 
talents had procured him the notice of H.E.H. the Prince of 
Wales, by whom he was deputed to model three busts of the 
Princess Alexandra. 

Subscriptions were raised at home, and reached Mam'itius in 
August, to the amount of 2,567^. 15s. 6<i., but even this only 
partially arrested the tide of want and misery. 

The mortality was declining, but so severe a blow had been 
given to commerce by the fever, and to agriculture by the 
drought, that the calamity fell heavily on the Island at a time 
when its productions were declining and its burdens aug- 
menting. 

On the 3rd and 4th of January, 1868, a strong gale passed over 
the Island, which did some mischief among the shipping, and 
stranded the United States steamer 'Warrior' and the English ship 
' Bury St. Edmonds.' At the same time an islet was formed at 
the mouth of the harbom-, which received the name of Barkly 
Island. Little injury was, however, done to the plantations, 
and great hopes were entertained that the ensuing crops would 
be heavy, and alleviate in some measure the distress of the 
place. 

The events of 1867 form a dark chapter in the history of 
Mauritius. The pestilence swept off 30,000 of the inhabitants ; 



400 EFFECTS OF PESTILENCE. [Ch. XXIV. 

the taxes for sanitary measures were greatly increased ; com- 
merce suffered severely, and the harbour was almost emptied of 
its shipping, for masters of vessels were afraid of entering, as 
their crews were sm'e to be attacked with fever on landing. 

Societies for social advancement were paralysed, and the 
churches were very thinly attended. 

All who could fled from the city to the higher parts of the 
Island, Savanne, &c., thus leaving a large number of houses un- 
tenanted, and reducing the value of property greatly. The 
finances of the colony were seriously affected. Notwithstanding 
considerable reductions in the expenditure to meet the falling 
off in the revenue, it was necessary to have recourse to additional 
taxation. Wine, beer, tobacco, and opium were the articles 
chosen, which would bear an extra impost without weighing 
unduly on the industrial classes. 

The railway receipts were so greatly diminished, that the 
establishment was overwhelmed with debts and difficulties ; but 
it was hoped that if the improved crops were realised, and the 
epidemic ceased, it would also have a share in the return of 
prosperity. 

Amongst the most important legislative measures were some 
especially affecting the jurisprudence of the colony. An ordi- 
nance was passed for amending the law of forcible ejectments, &c., 
which it was hoped would prove of eminent service in suppres- 
sing abuses long existing with regard to immovable property; one 
for enabling natural children to inherit property, and another 
respecting the Master's Court and land surveyors, were also passed. 

The office of Queen's Advocate for the Land Com^t was estab- 
lished, and a draft to codify and amend the laws of judicial 
sales was before the Council. 

An ordinance was passed, codifying and amending the laws 
affecting the status of Indian immigrants, sanctioning restric- 
tive provisions, which the increase of crime by bands of vagrants 
rendered necessary. 

By this Act they were obliged to give an account of their 
means of subsistence, or be sent to the depot, and, if they 
then refused to work, they would be treated as vagrants. 

Educational progress had been greatly checked the whole 
year. Many of the schools had been closed altogether. The 
Royal College was thoroughly disorganised by the incapacity of 



Ch. XXIV.] DRY DOCKS, CUSTOMS, ETC, 401 

its Eector, as well as by its ranks being thinned by fever, so that 
it had been for a long time in a state of retrogression. 

Nothing but a thoroughly efficient Eector, and judicious 
filling-up of the vacant Professorships, could give it a hope of 
success for the future. Several of its ablest Professors had suc- 
cumbed to fever. 

Immigration from the Presidencies had entirely ceased dur- 
ing 1867 ; but the planters were less distressed for hands than 
might have been supposed possible. From the excellent system 
of medical assistance on the estates, the deaths among the 
plantation labourers were, in proportion, fewer than among any 
other class. 

The Dry Docks and Customs necessarily felt severely the 
scarcity of vessels in the hartour during the whole year ; in fact, 
it would be difficult to say what sources of revenue, public or 
private, did not suffer more or less. 

A sum of 400L was voted by Council for sending Dr. Meller, 
Director of the Botanical Grardens, to Hong Kong, Japan, the 
Philippine Islands, New Caledonia, New Hebrides, Society 
Islands, and Queensland, to search for new and healthy canes 
to renew the old, diseased, and profitless ones in Mauritius. 

During January, the epidemic steadily increased. Even in 
the districts of Savane, Grrand Port, and others that had 
hitherto almost escaped, it spread with such rapidity that 
the mortality of the Island for that month amounted to 2,981 
victims. 

The Credit Foncier de I'lsle Maurice, Societe Coloniale, 
proved a total failure ; but the other two Credit Foncier Com- 
panies succeeded well, and stood high in the opinion of mer- 
chants in London and Paris. 

They, doubtless, by their timely aid, saved many a planter 
from ruin, and enabled him to tide over this trying period. 

In February, the western cemeteries within the town limits 
were permanently closed ; and about 400 acres of land were pur- 
chased at Bois Marchand for new ones, far beyond the precincts 
of the town, yet easily accessible by rail. 

At length, driven to it by pressure of circumstances, and it 
appearing that nothing else would do, serious discussions began 
to take place relative to the drainage of the city, as the only 



402 HURRICANES. [Ch. XXIV. 

means to restore Port Louis to anything like a sanatory state ; 
and estimates were required as to a survey of the whole place. 

An order in Council was passed, allowing the Procureur- 
Greneral, or his substitute, to plead for private individuals, 
Yhich gave great ofifence generally. 

From the 12th to the 14th of March, the Island was visited by 
one of the most terrific hurricanes of this century, which did 
incalculable mischief both in town and country. Few of the 
vessels in harbour escaped without more or less injury — some 
were complete wrecks. 

This put the climax to the misery of the colonists. The 
short crops, decline in public revenue, and fever had brought the 
Island apparently to its lowest point ; and, with the additional 
burden of dwelling-houses and stores, sugar houses, railway and 
other bridges, and public works injured or destroyed, the uni- 
versal distress may be better imagined than described. 

It needed undaunted courage and perseverance on all sides to 
bear up under so many misfortunes. 

Further taxation was out of the question, for the losses were 
estimated at a million of dollars. 

Fever still raged everywhere, especially in the city, and this was 
aided by the masses of vegetable and other debris in all directions, 
caused by the cyclone ; the cartage not being sufficient to clear 
it rapidly away. 

The Mail service to Gralle, by the Union Company's steamers, 
was stopped, nine months before the contract expired, by paying 
an indemnity of 7,500/. 

Great excitement was caused in England at the Horse Gruards, 
by the 86th Regiment being landed against orders, and from 
exaggerated statements in some leading journals as to the ' De- 
cimation of the troops.' It turned out that only tivo men had then 
died from the fever ; but when this news was reported, nothing 
was heard of any sympathy in the same quarter for the thousands 
of civilian victims who were dying monthly. 

Appeals were made to the Home Grovernment against the 
colony having to pay 45,000L to England for military defence, 
when it had been declared that only a small contingent was 
necessary in Mauritius. His Excellency applied for a reduction 
of 32,000L yearly, but up to this time (May) no answer had 
been received. 



Ch. XXIV.J THE QUEEN'S SYMPATHY. 403 

It was proposed to augment the Police force to such an extent 
that troops would not be required, and that the colony should 
pay from 20,000^ to 25,000^. for an efficient Reserve Police 
force. 

News was brought from Madagascar of the death of the queen, 
and conspiracies on all sides and consequent arrests. All, how- 
ever, ended quietly ; and a new queen was proclaimed, under 
the title of Ranavala Manjaka II. Mr. Cruaux, the English Con- 
sular officer, was officially informed that the treaty with England 
woidd be respected. According to Malagash law, on the death of 
a queen, every man, woman, and child is obliged to cut off the 
hair of the head quite close, go bareheaded and barefooted, and, 
no matter what the weather, wear the Lalhha under the arms, 
instead of covering the shoulders. To show the progress of 
civilisation in the capital, the late queen, on account of serious 
illness, paid a visit to the sea-side, the first time such an event 
had ever taken place in the royal annals of Madagascar. 

So heavy were the damages by the cyclone to public works, 
that it was found necessary to borrow 100,000Z. for governmental 
pm'poses. 

In June, a Minute was read in Council by His Excellency, 
expressing the great sympathy of Her Majesty the Queen with 
the sufferings of her subjects in Mauritius. 

On the 22nd of this month, the colony had to deplore the 
loss of one of its ablest men, the Hon. Sholto James Douglas, 
Acting Procureur-Greneral. 

He met with an accident at a friend's house, and fractured 
his leg badly, so that, in a fortnight's time, lock-jaw set in, and 
he died in forty-eight hours afterwards. He was universally 
regretted. 

The Legislative Council, Supreme Court, Chamber of Agri- 
culture and Municipal Council, all bore testimony to the higli 
character of this gentleman ; and his benevolence and wide- 
spread charity, especially during the epidemic, had earned for 
him the expressive title of the ' Friend of the poor.' 

A despatch was received from His Grace the Duke of Buck- 
ingham to the effect that no diminution could be made i 1 
the annual expenditure of 45,000L for the troops kept in Man 
ritius. 

The character of the Mauritians must have greatly changed 



404 COLONY QUESTIONS. [Ch. XXIV. 

since 1826. Lieutenant-General Sir A. Campbell, when speak- 
ing to the Minister on the repeated turbulence of the people, 
thus described them : — 

' They are so docile and gentle, they could be managed by 
four men and a corporal ! ' 

But now a regiment is required to keep the peace of the 
Island, at a cost of 45,000^. 

A new asylum for the poor was opened at Beau Bassin, in 
one of the healthiest parts of Plaines Wilhelms, with hospitals, 
sanatoriums, and cottages, which bids fair to be of the great- 
est benefit, particularly as it was intended to make it self-sup- 
porting. 

On July 14 medals were distributed by the Grovernor to six 
of the police force. These men, under Major O'Brien, Inspector 
Greneral of Police, have been well drilled, and become a very 
efficient well-disciplined corps, and during the epidemic have 
done good service in town and country. 

After almost insuperable difficulties from the limited means 
at command, the Grrand Eiver railway bridge, which was so 
severely injured in the hurricane, was repaired sufficiently for all 
purposes of traffic, pending the arrival of new iron girders from 
England. This was done by means of what is called the 
' Howe Truss,' from its inventor, an American. The work was 
completed by Mr. Payne, in the most skilful and successful 
manner. 

The difficulties of such an undertaking may be appreciated 
when it is considered that there were four trusses to be hoisted, 
each 125 feet long by 19, and each weighing about thirty tons. 
These had to be elevated 120 feet ; and to perform this, heavy 
hoisting derricks of 25 feet high had to be erected on the top 
of the columns. 

In September the old question of Indian villages was revived, 
as an additional sanatory measure, to prevent the crowding of 
Indians in the miserable huts they had always occupied ; but as 
usual, so much debating pro and con took place, that nothing 
was decided on, and it seems very doubtful if this justly needed 
step will ever be taken. 

Discussions with regard to the drainage of the city constantly 
went on, but with incessant opposition. 

In a Minute in Council, the Governor, after setting forth ably 



Ch. XXIV.] HISTORY. 405 

the advantages of the measure, concluded with these emphatic 
words :— ' It is very hard that it required an epidemic of such 
unexampled severity, as to force and duration, to establish this 
truth. There were statistics in abundance to prove that the 
colony was fast settling down into a chronic insanatory con- 
dition : they were utterly disregarded 1 There were continual 
exhortings from wise and prudent men to put " our house m 
order " while there was yet time ; but no one stirred ! Govern- 
ment, municipality, and people remained unmoved. Surely we 
have all been to blame for not making vigorous efforts, in the 
face of such fearful statistics, to arrest the waste of human life. 
Surely it should not have needed the subsequent lessons of 
pestilence to induce us to follow the example of other com- 
munities by improving the drainage and sewerage of this city. 

Some idea of the depreciation of property in Port Louis may 
be judged of when the mayor publicly expressed the opinion 
that the actual rateable property in Port Louis was something 
short of a million sterling to that assigned to it in the then 
existing assessment roll. 

A terrible disappointment took place when the time for the 
sugar harvest arrived. The crops, from which so much was 
expected, in consequence of the heavy rains and winds during and 
after the cyclone, fell so far short that only 75,000 tons were 
actually realised, instead of the hoped-for amount of 150,000. 

Towards the end of the year fever abated, but it was greatly 
feared that with the intense heat of summer it would again 
raise its malignant head. 

In December very warm discussions took place as to the 
reduction of the salaries of all the Grovernment officials, with 
no result. 

The year 1869 began with hopes that a favourable change 
might take place in the fortunes of the colony, so long crushed 
by troubles of all kinds. Serious financial difficulties were, 
however, still to be encountered. The expenditure of Grovern- 
ment was expected to be barely met by the revenue, yet the 
inofficial members of the Council refused consent even to a con- 
ditional reduction of 10 per cent, on the establishments. Ee- 
course was necessarily obliged to be had to further taxation, 
and a draft ordinance was passed to increase the revenue by 

new stamp duties. 

Ff 



4o6 LAWS AND TAXES. [Ch. XXIV. 

In March various important ordinances became law. 
Amongst others was one compelling all ships carrying more than 
ten passengers to be provided with a life boat, two buoys, and 
all necessaries for use, before putting to sea. In case of neglect, 
a fine was to be inflicted, not exceeding lOOL if the fault of the 
owners, or 50^. if with the master. The game-laws were amended, 
and every person carrying arms was compelled to have a license 
under penalty. Stringent laws were put in force to check 
cruelty to animals, for the Indians, who have so little regard for 
human life, are, as a rule, exceedingly cruel to dumb animals. 

Sanitary taxes continued very high, as a large establishment 
was obliged to be kept up to relieve the immense amount of 
distress, and with that it was with difficulty the still increasing 
poor could be assisted. 

Eeports were brought about this time of valuable gold fields 
supposed to have been discovered near Natal, and attempts 
were made to get up a party to proceed thither, but failed. 

A petition was presented to the Chamber of Agriculture, 
praying for a reduction of the judicial rate of interest from 
nine and twelve per cent, to seven, as a boon to the planters 
and merchants, to lessen the speculative tone engendered by 
exorbitant rates of interest ; for various reasons, however, it 
was not complied with. 

In April, letters were received from Earl Grranville on the 
sanitary condition of Port. Louis, stating that the eminent 
engineer, Mr. Bazalgette, had been appointed to make a survey 
of the city, and report as to the practicability of underground 
drainage. 

The same mail brought news of the death of Mr. James 
Morris, in London, who had been appointed Commissioner 
for the colony at the Paris and Dublin Exhibitions, and who had 
served as Greneral Grovernment Agent for sixteen years : his 
loss was much regretted. 

In June a revival of the question of Sericiculture, or silk- 
growing, took place. Numerous letters were written to the Royal 
Society of Arts and Sciences, and it was again shown beyond a 
doubt that silk might be profitably raised to a considerable 
amount in the colony : but with as little result as formerly. 
The manufacture of various fibres was also again brought for- 
ward, particularly of the various kinds of aloes with which the 



Ch. XXIV.] ARMED FORCE. 40? 

country abounds. The experiment is being made at Petite 
Kiviere, where a small manufacture is established for the con- 
version of aloe fibre into cordage. To be made profitable, the 
aloes will require cultivation on a large scale, and good steam 
machinery will be necessary ; but laboiu: is so dear that it is doubt- 
ful if it can ever prove a success in Mauritius. There would be no 
cause for doubt if they could compel all the unemployed and 
almost starving Indians to work for reasonable wages ; but that 
appears to be one of the great difficulties under which the 
colony labom's. As to the capability of the soil for producing 
aloes in as great quantities as could be required, there need be 
no question of that ; and many a plain, now waste land, unfit 
for cane or other cultm'e, could be planted with these hardy 
fibre-producing plants. 

Despatches were received from Downing Street, fixing the 
amount of troops decided on by the British Grovernment to be 
kept in Mauritius. The following table will show of what the 
force is to be composed : — 

Artillery Battery . , . 106 of all ranks. 

Engineers' Corps ... 98 ,, 

Infantry Eegiment . . . 898 ,, 

Hospital Corps ... 4 „ 

To be paid at the rate of 40^. per man for infantry, and 70^. for 
artillery and engineers, the same as the Australian rate. 

No Bishop having been appointed since the departure of 
Bishop Eyan in 1868, the Kev. S. Gr. Hatchard was at length 
installed as Lord Bishop of Mauritius and the Dependencies, and 
in July arrived with Mrs. Hatchard and family. 

Though apparently a change for the better took place in 
the sanitary condition of the Island, the death-rate was still 
heavy. During the year 1869, 11,495 deaths were registered, 
at least half of them from fever. 

Considerable progress was made in the manufacture of sugar 
by the use of Dr. Icery's process, though a great decline in 
the amount of sugar raised was inevitable from the great 
mortality of late years, and the comparatively few Indian im- 
migrants introduced. In the course of this year many import- 
ant draft ordinances were passed, besides those above mentioned. 
Imprisonment for debt was abolished ; the illegal practice of 



4o8 DEPRECIATION. [Ch. XXIV. 

medicine and surgery prevented ; the sale of poisons and other 
matters relative to pharmacy regulated ; the extension of the 
powers of the District Courts allowed ; measures taken for the 
prevention and punishment of arson ; extension of relief for 
distressed seamen ; a central rum warehouse established, &c. 

The number of bankruptcies and consequent sales and de- 
preciation of valuable property were much less frequent in 
1869 than in the two previous years. The Credit Foncier of 
Mamitius, Limited, was gradually growing into importance ; its 
large capital was securely employed and its affairs prosperous, 
while its utility to agriculture and British capitalists was daily 
more appreciated. Taken altogether, the year 1870 opened 
with fairer prospects in many ways than had been seen since the 
beginning of the terrible epidemic. In February 1870 the 
colony was shocked by the announcement of the death of the 
recently installed Lord Bishop. After barely two days of illness 
from fever, death had ensued before any, save those near him, 
knew of his illness ; just when he was acquiring a knowledge of 
the spiritual requirements of his diocese, and becoming inti- 
mate with the various congregations in the Island. 

Continuous dry weather at this time excited great fears in 
the public mind as to the coming crops, and the subject of 
irrigation was brought before the Chamber of Agricultm-e. A 
plan was projected for directing the waters of the Mare aux 
Vacoas, in the centre of the Island, to the plains below. The 
original plan appears to have involved a very large outlay, with 
scarcely adequate results, but it is likely it may eventually be 
adopted in a modifie'd form. The subjects of preserving the 
forests and re-wooding the country were again hotly discussed in 
Council, and draft ordinances were brought forward, but none 
were unanimously received. 

Proposals were made for connecting Mauritius with the 
various ports on the Indian Ocean and the Cape of Grood Hope 
by submarine telegraph, a scheme of the greatest benefit to the 
colony at large. It was, however, negatived for the time ; but 
hopes were held out that by the time the company was formed 
in Europe the Island would be in a condition to meet its share 
of the expense. 

In April, a despatcli was received from Lord Cfranville relative 
to the report of Mr. Bazalgette on the underground drainage. 



Ch. XXIV.] NEW FLAG. 409 

Most violent opposition to the project was manifested by a large 
portion of the community ; in fact, they went so far as to petition 
the Queen against it. One plea urged was that the turning up 
of all the ground in the city, so long saturated from the drains, 
would be fatal to the public health ;^ and also on account of the 
heavy expense it would incur. Year after year this goes on, and 
little is done to get rid of the pestilential gutters and drains 
in use, not to speak of other nuisances ; meanwhile death is 
reaping a heavy harvest while the people are quarrelling as to 
how the city shall be cleansed, and no one seems able to propose 
any feasible plan that will solve the difficulty. 

It having been at last decided that the visit of H.E.H. the 
Duke of Edinburgh, so long delayed on account of the epidemic, 
should positively take place in 1870, great preparations were 
made to receive the first Prince of royal English blood that had 
ever approached these shores. News was brought that in May 
the royal visitor might be expected. A Committee, styled the 
Duke of Edinburgh's, was appointed ; horses were sent for from 
the Cape, wines and provisions from Europe ; Grovernment 
House was furbished up ; the streets newly macadamised ; paint 
and whitewash everywhere ; triumphal arches constructed ; and 
amusements of all sorts planned. The members of the Eoyal 
Society of Arts and Sciences agreed to get up an exhibition of 
the various products of the Island, and all was excitement and 
anticipation. 

By the April mail the Flag arrived, selected for Mauritius by 
the Naval Authorities of Great Britain. It consists of a blue 
ensign, in the fly of which is a shield quartered severally with 
a ship, three cane plants, a key, and a star rising from the 
ocean. The motto is ' Stella clavisque maris Indicis.' It was 
intended to first unfurl this flag on welcoming His Koyal High- 
ness to Mauritius when landing from the ' Galatea.' 

The Duke was at this time being feted at Ceylon ; and the 
May mail brought the news that the august visitor would arrive 
about the 18th. 

The whole place was in a flutter ; the shops were gay with 

' Query — Would not the leaving that saturated subsoil be still more fatal than 
having it turned out and done with for ever ? Is it not daily doing mischief when 
the mephitic vapours it engenders are forced into the atmosphere through the 
open drains? 



4IO DUKE OF EDINBURGH. [Ch. XXIV. 

finery for the coming fetes ; and most unusual bustle pervaded 
everywhere. 

Sad disappointment was experienced when the 18th arrived, 
but no Prince. Day after day passed, and Her Majesty's loyal 
Mauritian subjects began to fear that all the addresses and 
speeches prepared for royal ears were vain, and that some cause 
had again turned the ' Galatea ' from their port. The spirits 
of the people were still further depressed by the death, on the 
23rd, of one of the members of the Legislative Council, the 
Hon. H. Koenig, a distinguished veteran of the Mauritius bar. 

Every day the programme for the Duke's entertainment was 
changed ; and it was not till about 1 1 a.m. on the 24th that 
the Union Jack on Signal Mount announced the approach of 
the ' Galatea.' At 4.30 p.m. she anchored, and after a salute 
from the forts, his Excellency the Governor, attended by his 
aid-de camp. Major O'Brien, extra aid-de-camp for the occa- 
sion, and Mr. Arthur Barkly, his private secretary, repaired on 
board to welcome the Prince. The same evening a quiet 
landing was effected ; and he dined with the Governor, returning 
in the same manner, to sleep on board. 

The following programme will show the arrangements made 
by the committee for the Prince's welcome. It was arranged 
on the supposition of his arriving on the 20th ; but being delayed 
four days later, the whole had to be somewhat modified to com- 
press it into a shorter space of time. 

1870. 
May 20. — Friday. Arrived. 

„ 21. — Saturday. Lands officially at noon — Levee at 
2 P.M. — In the evening Lady Barkly's reception. 

„ 22. — Sunday. 

„ 23. — Monday. Laying of foundation-stone of the Me- 
teorological Observatory at twelve o'clock — 
Botanical Gardens at Pamplemousses at 1 p.m. 
Evening — Municipal banquet. 

„ 24. — Tuesday. Queen's Levee — Eegatta — State dinner. 

„ 25. — Wednesday. Morning concert — Queen's ball in 
the evening. 

„ 26. — Thursday. Chasse at Fressanges. 

5) 27. — Friday. Chasse at and return from Fressanges — 
Masonic Ball 



Ch. :^XIV.] FETES. \\\ 

May 28. — Saturday. Eaces — Theatre in the evening. 
„ 29. — Sunday. 
„ 30. — Monday. Mahebourg — Entertainmentsby the 86th 

E.C.D. Kegiment. 
„ 31. — Tuesday. Exhibition — Cricket ball. 
June 1. — Wednesday. Departure for Bois Sec. 
„ 2. — Thursday. Ghasse at Bois Sec. 
„ 3. — Friday. Lawn party at Eeduit. 
„ 4. — Saturday. Departure. 

Numerous addresses were also presented to the Prince. 

This, of course, is not the place to comment on how the 
arrangements were carried out ; suffice it to say. His Eoyal 
Highness expressed himself greatly pleased with his visit to 
Mamritius. 

The last few days were all hurry and bustle, for His Excellency 
and family were on the point of leaving for England, his term 
of ofi&ce having expired. 

On the 3rd of June, by the Mail steamer. Sir H. Barkly, his 
lady and daughter, left Mauritius, taking with them regrets 
from all classes, not only for his zeal and incessant application 
to business, and his earnest endeavours to promote the welfare 
of the colony, but for the kindliness and warmth of feeling 
shown in the trials the Island had passed through during his 
administration. It is only necessary to mention the inunda- 
tion of 1865, the fevers of 1867, 1868, and 1869, and the hurri- 
canes of 1868, to recall the many acts of sympathy by which the 
Governor testified his feelings for the people under his tem- 
porary rule. 

When the Mail steamer had left the harbour, she was followed 
by the ' Galatea,' slowly steaming away from the shores of 
Mauritius, putting an end to the short-lived gaiety, and leaving 
Port Louis to sink back to its normal dulness. 

The following day. His Honour, Brigadier-General E. S. 
Smythe, senior officer commanding the troops in Mauritius, 
was sworn in as officer administering the government, until 
such time as the new Governor, Mr. Arthur Gordon, should 
arrive. 

February 21, 1871, the Hon. Arthur Hamilton Gordon, 
C.M.G., landed in Mauritius, and assumed the Governorship of 
the colony. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

BBIEF SUMMARY OF THE GEOGRAPHY OF MAURITIUS, ITS 
DEPENDENCIES, CIVIL AND MILITARY STATISTICS, VARIOUS 
INDUSTRIES, COMMERCE, #c. 

The Geography of Mauritius — Its Physical Aspect and Climate — Its Dependencies 
— Account of Seychelles— Internal Communication — Post Office and Foreign 
Telegraph Scheme— Hackney Coaches, &c.— Defences, Military, Police and 
Naval — Money, Weights, and Measures — Banks — Credit Foncier, &c. — The 
various Industries of Mauritius— Foreign Commerce — Decadence of Commercial 
Affairs generally. 

The Island of Mauritius lies just within the Tropics, of 
irregular shape ; at its greatest length, viz. from Cape Mal- 
heureux to Pointe Dernis, it measiues 39 miles, and at its 
widest part, about 34 across, though from the coast of Petite 
Riviere to Point Quatre Cocos, in Flacq, its breadth is only 28 
miles. 

Its distance from the nearest land (Reunion) is about 115 miles: 
from Madagascar, 500 ; Rodrigues, 300 ; Seychelles, 915 ; Cape 
Comorin, 2,000 ; the Cape of Grood Hope, 2,300 ; the nearest 
point in Australia (Cape Cuvier), 3,000; nearly 11,000 from 
England, via the Cape, or 7,000 by the overland route. 

It possesses an area of about 700 square miles, giving in 
exact measurement 432,689 acres. 

The physical aspect of the Island is in general picturesque, 
from the bold and grand outlines of the lofty hills, with their 
peculiarly formed and varied summits. The north is, for the 
most part, a vast plain, covered with cane lands, and the centre 
an elevated plateau, rising to above 1,500 feet beyond sea-level. 
From this elevation, the principal mountain-ranges diverge, 
and the land descends gradually from Curepipe to G-rand Port, 
The eastern side presents a rich and well-cultivated district. 

The coast is deeply indented with bays ; but there are only 



Ch. XXV.] MOUNTAINS. . 413 

three safe approaches for vessels— the Harbour of Port Louis, 
the Bay of Grrand Port, and the Bale de la Riviere Noire. 

Islands are very numerous, but all small. The principal are 
Isle aux Tonneliers, near Port Louis, connected with it by a 
causeway, on which stands Fort Greorge, commanding the 
entrance to the harbour ; the Coin de Mire, Isle Platte, Le 
Colombier, Grabriel, Isle Eonde, and Isle aux Serpents, to the 
north of Mauritius; Butte a I'Herbe and Isle d'Ambre, on the 
coast of the Riviere du Rempart ; Isle aux Cerfs and des 
Roches, near Flacq ; Isles Marianne, aux Fouguets, aux 
Vacoas, de la Passe, aux Singes, and des Aigrettes, near Grrand 
Port ; and on the coast of the Riviere Noire, the Isles aux 
Fourneaux, du Morne, and des Benitiers. 

Mountains, 

There are three principal ranges of mountains. The first, called 
the Port Louis Grroup, encircles the city, extending towards 
Pamplemousses. One line of the group includes Mountains 
Ory, the Pouce, Peter Both, and the Callebasses Mountains. 
One spiu- terminates abruptly in the cliffs of the Signal Moun- 
tain, above the western surburb of Port Louis ; another, to the 
east, is Petite Montague, surmounted by the Citadel, and rising 
from the great plain of the Champ de Mars ; behind it lies the 
Montague des Pretres, and de I'Embrasure ; and, still farther, the 
Montague Longue, de Ripaille, and the Nouvelle Decouverte. 
The principal elevations of this group, according to French 
authorities, are : Peter Both, 2,874 feet ; Pouce, 2,707 feet : 
Montague Longue, 611 feet; Signal Mountain, 1,136 feet. 
Most of these mountains are covered only with rank coarse grass 
and stunted shrubs ; a few are wooded to their summits. 

The second group commences with the Mountains of the 
Corps de Garde and those of the Plaines of St. Pierre ; and in 
this chain are included the Trois Mamelles and the Rempart 
Mountains. Between these mountains lies the basin of the 
Riviere du Rempart, and almost parallel with them run the 
Brise de Fer, Tamarin, and Des Vacoas Mountains. Those of the 
Terre Rouge shoot off into Savane, and the mountains of the 
Riviere Noire terminate with the Morne Brabant and Piton de 
la Fougue ; the Mountains of Savane forming the southern 
extremity. 



414 . MOUNTAINS. [Ch. XXV. 

The Piton of the Eiviere Noire is the highest mountain in 
Mauritius, being 2,902 feet above the sea, thus exceeding the 
Peter Both by 28 feet; the Eempart Mountains, 2,710 feet, 
Corps de Garde, 2,525 feet ; Savane, 2,429 feet ; the highest of 
the Trois Mamelles, 2,340 ; and Morne Brabant, 1,937 feet. 

The third, or south-western group, extends from Grrand 
River, SE. to the centre of the Island. Various spurs run 
southwards, the principal of which are the Cent Graulettes, 
Creoles, Camisard, Grand Port, Bambou, Biable, and Feuilles. 

The highest of these are the Bambou, 2,204 feet ; Grand 
Port, 1,703 feet ; and Creoles, 1,286. Those near the coast are 
mostly rugged and barren, while the mountains towards the 
interior of the Island are well wooded, and of great interest to 
the naturalist. 

There are often elevations not included in these groups, all 
more or less isolated ; the principal of which are, Le Piton du 
Milieu de I'lsle, in Moka ; Fayence and Montague Blanche, in 
Flacq; Le Grand and Petit Malabar, La Meule a Foin, La 
Motte a Therese, Le Piton, La Butte des Papayers, and Mounts 
Oret, Mascal, and Candos. A chain of signal stations is 
established round the Island, the principal one being on the 
Port Louis Mountain. From it ships can be seen at a great 
distance ; and on clear days, in certain states of the atmosphere, 
Bourbon is said to be visible. On it is a time-ball which falls 
daily at one o'clock, very exact when it does work, but not 
unfrequently out of order. A telegraph wire connects the 
station with the Post Office. A zigzag path has been cut up 
the east face of the naountain, so that it is easily ascended. It 
well repays climbing, if only for the fine view of the city and 
harbom* it affords, and the pure bracing air, so invigorating 
when once the base of the mountain is scaled. 

Between these varied groups of mountains are many beauti- 
ful valleys. In the first gToup is the Anse Courtois, between 
Mount Ory and Port Louis ; that in which the city lies, the 
upper part called the Vallee of the Pouce ; the Vallee Pitot, and 
Vallee des Pretres, beyond the Citadel towards Mount Longue ; 
and the Vallees de Peter Both and La Nicoliere. The valleys 
of the second group of mountains are little worthy of notice ; 
but in the third group are the Vallee des Cent Gaulettes, com- 
prising a large part of the district of Grand Port, well watered 



Ch. XXV.] PLATEAUX, RIVERS. 415 

and possessing a rich soil, and greater humidity from the larg« 
quantity of rain that falls here compared with the rest of the 
Island. The Plaine des Hollandais, part of which is called 
Beau Vallon, was the site of the first Dutch settlement. Les 
Bambous is also another fine valley of about 1,500 acres, &c. 

The centre plateau, comprising the districts of Moka and 
Plaines Wilhelms, on account of its coolness, especially the 
latter, is rapidly increasing its population. It is principally in 
these districts that the country houses of merchants and others 
are situated, who come into Port liouis by rail every morning, 
returning home in the evening. The climate at Curepipe and 
Vacoas is cool early and late in the day (though hot at noon) 
even in summer, and is positively cold in winter, which can 
scarcely be said of Port Louis at any time. 

As may be supposed from so much mountain and table-land 
the Island is abundantly watered. There are no less than sixty 
rivers and streams flowing to the sea, but all are small ; very 
many cease to flow in dry weather, and the largest are only full 
after heavy rains, when their rise is so rapid as often to occasion 
much mischief — but they descend to their ordinary level with 
equal rapidity. 

Taking the first group of mountains as the first watershed, we 
have the Ruisseau St. Louis running through the city, the 
Creoles, Pouce, La Butte a Tonier, des Pucelles, and the 
Fanfaron ; all (except the latter, where the docks are) filthy 
streams, stagnant the greater part of the year, most fertile sources 
of malaria. Then the rivers Lataniers, sacred to Indian rites, 
Terre Rouge, Seche, Tombeau, and Pamplemousses drain the 
north-western slope ; while the Rivieres du Rempart, Franpoise, 
and Poste du Flacq drain the other slope. 

The central table-land forms a second watershed, whence flow 
the Grrande Riviere NW. on the west, and Grrande Riviere SE. 
on the east. 

From the third group the Nyon, Champagne, des Creoles and 
de la Chaux rise. 

The Black River and Savane Mountains are a fourth water- 
shed. Their south-eastern slope is drained by the Tabac, du 



^i6 DIVISIONS. [Ch. XXV. 



Poste, des Anguilles, de la Savane, des G-alets, des Citronniers, 
du Cap, and other streams ; through their gorges on the west 
flow the rivers Noire, du Tamarin, du Eempart, des Galets, 
Dragon, Belle Isle, and Petite Riviere. 

Mares^ &c. 

There are several natural collections of water, which take the 
name either of Bassins or Mares. The principal of these is the 
Grand Bassin among the mountains of Savane. The Bassin Blanc 
in the same district is dry during a part of the year. La Mare 
aux Vacoas is shallow, but has an extent of nearly two square 
miles in rainy weather, feeding many small streams. It is pur- 
posed to utilise its waters by constructing dams, &c., which 
will be a boon to the residents near it in dry weather. 

In Flacq are the Mares la Boue, St. Amand, aux Fougeres, 
and Lubines, the latter near the sea, and influenced by the tides. 

In Grand Port are large mares, but, except in the wet season, 
they are only insignificant pools. The Mare de la Violette and 
Les Mares have the same outlet for their waters. La Mare la 
Sablonniere covers several acres in the rainy season, when it has a 
depth of fifteen to twenty feet in places. 

In the district of Moka, in the Quar tiers militaires, are the 
Mares Delvoye and Eameau. 

Divisions^ Towns, &c, 

Mauritius is divided into nine districts, viz. : — Port Louis, 
Pamplemousses, Riviere du Rempart, Flacq, Grand Port, 
Savane, Riviere Noire, Plaines Wilhelms, and Moka. 

Fort Louis, 

Its greatest length is five and a half miles from east to west, 
and its breadth four miles from north to south. It extends from 
Grand River to the left bank of Terre Rouge River. Its coast, 
including indentations, is about seven miles. The principal 
places are Port Louis, aux Pailles, La Grande Riviere, Roche 
Bois, and La Vallee des Pretres. 

Port Louis, the capital of Mauritius, lies in the NW. of the 
Island. 

Since 1850, it has been placed under a Municipal Corpora- 



Ch. XXV.] CENSUS. 417 

tion, consisting of a mayor, deputy-mayor, and sixteen coun- 
cillors. 

Aux Failles consists principally of country cottages belonging 
to persons employed in the city ; and there are numerous 
market gardens cultivated by Indians, the red earth of which, 
when well watered, being singularly fertile. 

At Grrande Eivi^re are the lunatic asylum and a vagrant 
depot ; and a suspension bridge spans the river. 

At Roche Bois are also coimtry houses, many on a very 
diminutive scale ; but all the gardens are uncared for, and the 
whole place has a desolate look : there are many kilns here for 
burning coral. It is frequently resorted to for sea-bathing ; 
this shore being better adapted for that purpose than any other 
part of Port Louis. 

At the last census the city had a population of 74,128, or 
7,413 persons to the square mile. No wonder in such a hot- 
bed that an epidemic carried off so many thousands ! It has 
now only a very greatly diminished number of inhabitants.^ 

Pamplemousses. 

It is thirteen miles from N. to S.i and as many from E. to 
W., and takes its name from the Shaddock, called here Pam- 
plemousses. The coast is about fifteen miles in length, entirety 
defended by coral reefs. 

It is divided into eight cantons : viz. Montague Longue, Le 
Piton, Peter Both, La Riviere des Callebasses, La Villebague, 
Bois Rouge, Mapou, and Le Tombeau. 

The principal places are, Pamplemousses, La Terre Rouge, 
L' Arsenal, La Villebague, Le Trou aux Biches, La Grande 
Bale, RJche Terre, Powder Mills, La Pointe aux Piments. 

At Pamplemousses are the famous Botanical Gardens. 

Powder Mills has an orphan asylum. At Riche Terre is a 
large nunnery. 

The population was 53,598, or 615 persons to the square mile. 

Riviere du Remipart. 
This district is fourteen miles from N. to S. and six from E. 
to W., and owes its name to the principal river in it. 

The coast is deeply indented, but has no harbour for large 

' The population given is taken from the Census before the epidemic. 



41 8 ' ITINERARY. [Ch. XXV. 

vessels : including the bays, it extends about thirty-five miles. 
It has seven cantons : Bois Eouge, Le Mapou, Poudre d'Or, Le 
Piton, La Plaine, St. Cloud, Eiviere du Eempart, and La 
Plaine des Eoches ; all having villages of the same name. 
Population 19,331, or 333 persons to the square mile. 

Flacq. 

This district, the first in size, and third in population, has 
an area of 113 square miles. It acquired its name from the 
Dutch, but ' Flat ' can only apply to those parts near the sea. 
The indentations are few, and the coast-line about twenty miles 
in length. 

It has eight cantons : Flacq, La Mare aux Lubines, Les 
Quatre Cocos, Trou d'Eau douce. La Eiviere Seche, La Mare 

A 

aux Fougeres, Les Trois Hots, and Camp de Masque. 

Formerly, the Poste du Flacq was the principal village, but 
one has sprung up near the railway station which is now the 
more important, and where the district court is held. 

Population 41,468, or 367 persons to the square mile. 

Grand Port. 

The fine bay gives its name to this district, which has an 
area of 1 1 2 square miles. 

The coast, including openings, measures twenty-nine miles. 

It has seven cantons : Les Mares d' Albert, Plein Bois, La 
Mare du Tabac, Les Cents Gaulettes, La Eiviere la Chaux, La 
Eiviere des Creoles and la Cote. 

Population 35,564, or 317 persons to the square mile. 

Savane. 

This district has an area of ninety-two miles, and takes its 
name from a large savannah or plain in its eastern district. 

It has a coast-line of about eighteen miles, which is prin- 
cipally devoid of reefs, and the surf breaks direct on the shore. 

There are only two cantons : La Grande and La Petite Savane ; 
their two principal places are Souillac and Jacotet. 

The population is 21,026, giving 228 persons to the square 
mile. 

Riviere Noire. 
One of the largest rivers gives the name to the district, 
which has an area of about ninety-four square miles. 



Ch. XXV.] ITINERARY. 419 

There are several bays on its coast, which, including them, is 

about thirty-five miles in length- 
It is divided into six cantons : La Petite Eiviere Noire, La 

Plaine St. Pierre, Le Tamarin, La Eiviere Noire, Le Coteau 

Eapu, and Les Grorges du Cap. 

The principal places are Eiviere Noire, Tamarin, Bambou, 

Petite Eiviere Noire, and Morne Brabant. 

At the village of Bambou are the courts of the district, and 

stipendiary magistrates, police station, &c. 

Population 17,171, or 182 persons to the square mile. 

Plaines Wilhelms. 

This fine district has an area of about seventy square miles, 
and derived its name from two brothers, Dutchmen, who settled 
here in 1690. 

It has only about fourteen miles of coast. 

It is divided into Upper and Lower Plaines Wilhelms,and these 
are again subdivided into four cantons : La Terre Eouge, Les 
Quatre Bornes, Le Bassin, and Les Vacoas ; and the principal 
places are Plaines Wilhelms, Le Trou aux Cerfs, Curepipe, Les 
Vacoas, Petite Eiviere. 

Population 28,014, or 400 persons to the square mile. 

This district has a larger number of Europeans residing in it 
than any other in the Island. 

Moka, 

It was here the coffee tree was planted when introduced from 
^locha, in Arabia, and thus its name. 

It has an area of sixty-eight square miles, but no coast, as it 
lies between the districts of Port Louis, Flacq, Plaines Wilhelms, 
and Grrand Port. 

It has six cantons : Les Pailles, Moka, La Terre Eouge, and 
the Quartiers Militaires ; and its three principal places are 
Moka, Malagassy Village, and Eeduit. The latter is the country 
residence of the Grovernor. The former has both Catholic and 
Protestant churches; and Malagassy Village is said to have 
been formed by a number of natives of Madagascar, who escaped 
from the persecutions to which the professors of Christianity 
were exposed in that country. 

Population 17,704, or 260 persons to the square mile. 



420 HEAT AND CLIMATE, [Ch. XXV. 

Climate. 

Mauritius, though within the Tropics, enjoys on the whole a 
very fair climate, and were the sanitary regulations of both city 
and country well carried out, it might be a very healthy one. 
The sky is remarkably clear, and except in hurricane weather 
there are few days in the year in which walking is impossible 
during some part of the day. 

From December to April the heat is intense in Port Louis, 
frequently as bad by night as by day. About this time the 
evenings and mornings begin to cool a little, and by the middle 
of May, the heat is bearable ; and till November the climate is 
fine, with occasional exceptions. There is a vast difference in 
the country, on the Plaines Wilhelms' side especially. There 
the temperature varies many degrees from that of Port Louis : 
the nights are cool even in summer, and in winter, on the 
heights of Curepipe and Vacoas, a fire is welcome ; a luxury 
rarely to be procured, as there are only two or three grates, I 
believe, in the Island. It should be stated that such articles 
(so suggestive of pleasant evenings at home) would be but 
superfluities in other than the above-mentioned districts. I 
give the following note, the result of a series of observations 
made at Powder Mills, a few miles from Port Louis. The mean 
annual height of the thermometer for the year at sunrise was 
70°, in the afternoon 86°, and at sunset 72° ; the maximum 
was 90°, and the minimum 61° 5'. This, I should think, would 
be a fair average for Port Louis, Pamplemousses, and Flacq ; so 
it may be well seen how little the residents in these districts 
require any artificial heat in their dwellings. 

The hurricane season in Mauritius extends from about the 
beginning of December to the middle of April, and the cyclones, 
so dreaded by mariners, and often so destructive to life and 
property, range from about 8° to 30° S. latitude. There are 
certain signs by which their approach is indicated, thus giving 
warning to masters of vessels and others to prepare for the 
coming storm — a falling barometer, sombre atmosphere, the 
clouds of a yellowish grey shade, sultry oppressive weather, an 
irregular wind, and generally rain in fitful gusts. 

In general, on the eve of the storm, the mountains are misty, 
white clouds are detached from a black ground, and chase each 



Ch. XXV.] STORMS. 421 

other violently. At sunset the sky looks coppery ; squalls from 
the SE. are followed by sudden calms. The barometer sensibly 
lowers, and if the squalls become stronger and more frequent, 
a cyclone is pretty sure to follow. The roaring of the wind is 
so loud diu'ing one of these storms that the growling of the 
thunder is almost unheard. It is rarely that cyclones pass over 
Mauritius for two consecutive years, though it is an exceptional 
case when it does not get the fag end of one or more. The 
years which pass without sharp storms may be marked with a 
black letter, for they are as a rule most unhealthy, and have 
but too often been visited by some dire disease. 

Slight shocks of earthquake have been occasionally felt here, 
but I am not aware that they were ever accompanied with 
damage. 

The longest days are at the December solstice, and the shortest 
at the June solstice. The length of the longest day from sun- 
rise to sunset is thirteen hours twelve minutes ; the shortest, 
ten hours forty-eight minutes. The difference of time between 
the observatories of Grreenwich and Port Louis is three hours 
forty-nine minutes fifty-eight seconds, the latter of course in 
advance of the former. 

Hail, though it very rarely falls, yet does sometimes fall in 
Mauritius, principally in the district of Grrand Port. 

There has been no active volcano here within the memory of 
man, though the continuous streams of lava found all over the 
Island, that once flowed to the sea in every direction from the 
craters formerly active, show that the eruptions must have been 
on the grandest scale. In the sister isle of Bourbon is a volcano 
constantly in eruption. 

The prevailing wind in Mauritius is the SE. trade wind ; from 
the middle of May to the middle of October it blows chiefly 
from SE. and ESE., passing occasionally to N. and NW. 
During the rest of the year it is chiefly from ESE. to ENE. ; as 
a general rule, it veers from SE. to E., NNW., and W., veering 
seldom in the contrary direction. When the wind sets in from 
the W., or the 'vent du large,' everyone is complaining, migraines 
and nervous complaints are prevalent. 

The rains are very irregular : in some years genial showers 

fall during most months, rendering the whole Island fertile, and 

spreading verdure to the mountain summits, and a pleasing 

Gg 



422 



RAINFALL. 



[Ch. XXV. 



murmiii* of content spreads through the land, in anticipation of 
good crops, on which the whole prosperity of the place depends ; 
in other years, such heavy incessant torrents fall (especially 
in those visited by hurricanes), that the canes imbibe too much 
moisture, and their precious juice is deteriorated. Bad as this is, 
it is comparatively trifling to the mischief done in the frequent 
long droughts, when months pass, and scarcely more rain falls 
than suffices to keep trees and canes alive. Every shade of 
grass dries up, and the heavy look of care in the face of every 
planter you meet but too well accords with the dreary aspect 
of nature. 

Then, again, the rainfall differs greatly in various parts of 
the Island : near the forest lands, steady regular rains fall, and 
the crops are fine ; whereas to the north everything is parched up 
for want of rain, and there is no means of irrigation. 

The following table will show the difference of the rainfall 
for a series of years, as figured in the Transactions of the Meteoro- 
logical Society ; taking Cluny in Grrand Port as the maximum, 
Labourdonnais in Eiviere du Eempart as the medium, and Port 
Louis as the minimum. 





Cluny 


Labourdonnais 


Port Louis 




Inches 


Inches 


Inches 


Total fall in 1869 . 


129-37 


63-73 


54-57^ 


1868 . 






183-74 


70-46 


64-18 


1867 . 






141-23 


56-99 


35-970 


1866 . 






129-42 


50-29 


20-741 


1865 . 






192-45 


87-63 


44-737 


1864 . 






122-48 


57-25 


24-147 


1863 . 






147-09 


70-72 


33-420 


1862 . 






122-54 


52-23 


28-397 



The ' monthly means of the barometer, dry and wet bulb ther- 
mometers, dew point, elastic force of vapour, relative humidity, 
amount of cloud, and force of wind,' during the year 1869, as 
published in the Blue Book, will give a fair general idea of the 
average of the above meteorological features, in years when there 
are no hurricanes and a small rainfall. This table has been 
derived from the four observations taken daily at 3.30 a.m. 
9.30 A.M. 3.30 p. M. and 9.30 p.m. The highest and lowest 
reading of the dry and wet bulb thermometers are obtained 
from self-registering thermometers : — 



Ch. XXV.] DEPENDENCIES. 423 

The mean height of the barometer for the year was 30"084 * 

Highest reading (corrected) of barometer . . 30-372 at 9^ a.m. Aug. 8 

Lowest „ „ . . 29-717 at 3^ P.M. Feb 7 

Mean daily barometric oscillation . . . . 0' 60 

Mean temperature of year . . . . . 79* 2° 

Highest reading of maximum dry bulb ther. in sliade 93' 2° Feb. 19 , ^ „n 

T ^ • • a', cto K 00 [Range 25.6° 

Lowest ,, minimum ,, ,, 67" 6° Aug. 23) ^ 

Highest reading of maximum wet bulb ., 82- 0° Jan. 26 ^ 

T ^ - • ST 00 A -7 Range 24-1° 

Lowest ,, minimum ,, ., 57' 9° Aug. 7 ° 

Highest dew point (from the six-hourly observations) 77" 7^ Jan. 25 | 

Lowest „ „ „ 49- 0° Aug. 6 ' ^^^^e 28-7 

Highest tension of vapour ..... "949 Jan. 2 ) ^ 

Lowest „ •347A«g.5lK^"Se-602 

Highest relative humidity (TO = com pi. sat.) . "865 Feb. 2 > ^ 

Lowest „ „ . . . . •410Dec.l4f^^°g«'^4^ 

Kainfall during the year 54-535 inches. 

Greatest fall in twenty-four hours .... 8-00 inches. 
Number of days on which rain fell . . . 120 

Dependencies of Mauritius. 

The following islands are reckoned in the Dependencies of 
Mauritius, and receive supplies of all sorts from it. 

There are many other small islands, but mostly barren rocks. 
Some are merely coral atolls, notably so the Cosmoledo group. 
The two small islands, St. Paul and Amsterdam, so far south as 
37° and 38° S. lat., 78° E. long., also form part of the depen- 
dencies of Mauritius, though seldom visited, except by the 
whalers of the Southern Seas. 

From the six islands great quantities of cocoa-nut oil are sent 
yearly to Mauritius, and salted fish from the St. Brandon Isles 
and Rodrigues. Our American whalemen cruise constantly in 
the waters near these islands, and numbers of vessels are 
annually laden with the spoils of the monster sperm whales 
found in this vicinity. The whole of the islands have danger- 
ous reefs near them, compelling the most careful navigation when 
approaching them. Many a fine vessel has come to grief on 
these treacherous rocks, and has had to be abandoned, an utter 
wreck. 

Curious and valuable marine and land shells abound, and 
might easily be procured if the fishermen could be induced to 
take a little trouble in collecting them. St. Brandon is noted 
for the beautiful scarlet coral, the Tuhifora musica. 



424 



ISLAND GROUPS. 



[Ch. XXV, 



.Names 


Latitude S. 


i 


Longitude E. 


i 


Occupations 




Between 




Between 




! 




O / o 


/ 


O 1 o 




1 


The Cargados Carayos,"! 










1 


or St. Brandon Isles, > 


16 15andl6 


57 


50 and 60 





Fishing. 


sixteen in number. J 












Agalega .... 


10 30 




56 30 




Cocoa-nut 
plantations. 


Cortivy . . 


7 30 




56 30 




Ditto. 


The Perhos Banhos, i 
twenty-five in number. J 


5 10 and 5 


25 


71 45 and 72 





Ditto. 


Solomon's or Onze Isles . 


5 17 and 5 


22 


71 13 and 73 


18 


Ditto and 
. wood-cutting^. ' 


Nelson Island or Segour . 


5 41 




72 22 






Trois Fr^res . 


6 6 and 6 


10 


71 34 and 71 


38 


Ditto. 


Eagle Isles, two in number. 


6 10 and 6 


15 


71 21 and 71 


24 




Isle au Danger 


6 23 




71 17 






The Six Islands 


6 39 




71 20 and 71 


27 


Ditto. 


Diego Garcia . 


70 




72 and 73 





Ditto. 


Rodrigues 


19 41 




63 23 




Various. 
'Cotton and 
Sugar, 


The Seychelles, thirtyO 
five or thirty-six in > 
number. J 


3 43 and 5 


45 


55 13 and 56 


10 


Tobacco, 
Maize, 
"1 Oranges, 
Coffee and I 
the Coco de ' 
^Mer. 


The Cosmoledo group, \ 
four or five in n u mbe 1 


9 50 and 10 





48 35 and 48 


44 




Providence 


9 12 




51 10 




Pis]iing. 


Astove .... 


10 9 




47 48 




Ditto. 


Isle St. Pierre , 


9 18 




50 53 




Ditto. 


Assumption . , 


9 44 




40 34 




Ditto. 1 


Aldabra .... 


9 22 




45 50 




Ditto. ! 


The Amirautes, seven- 
teen in number. 


40 51 and 6 


15 


53 56 and 53 


43 


f Cocoa-nut 
1 plantations. 



The most important of all the groups is that of the Seychelles. 
I have always had a great wish to visit it, but have hitherto 
been unable to accomplish it. The few notices of the islands I 
have met with are so scanty, that I gladly avail myself of the 
permission to use some notes lent me by my good friend the 
Hon. Swinbourne Ward, made at the time he was Civil Com- 
missioner at Mahe. These notes are very copious, especially on 
the natural history of the Seychelles (on which it is not my 
intention to touch, except very lightly.) And it is to them I 
am indebted for the information now given. The group con- 
stituting the Seychelles Archipelago was discovered by the 
Portuguese, but not thought worth their occupation. It was 
taken possession of by the French in 1742, and it was named 



Ch. XXV.] SEYCHELLES. 425 

Les Isles des Labourdonnais ; but later the name was. changed 
to that of Seychelles, after Viscount Herault de Seychelles. In 
1792 they were captured by the British man-of-war ' Orpheus,' 
under Captain Newcombe. The French commandant capitu- 
lated, and was allowed to retire with the honours of war. How- 
ever, as Captain Newcombe could not remain to take possession, 
he requested the French officer to continue his governorship 
under the British flag. This curious arrangement actually took 
place, and lasted for some years. The French still kept a sort 
of hold there, and it was not till the peace in 1814 that the 
Seychelles was definitely ceded to Britain. 

Shortly after this period these islands attained a high degree 
of prosperity. Large quantities of cotton were grown of the 
finest quality, and many fortunes were made. A great change 
however took place in 1827, when America began to fill the 
European markets with her cotton ; prices lowered, and the 
trade gradually dwindled away. 

Mahe, the principal of the group, named after Labourdonnais, 
is about seventeen miles long. Only the littoral, and a portion of 
the south of the Island, are available for purposes of agriculture ; 
the rest being a series of lofty mountains, of granite formation, 
the ' Morne Blanc ' rising to the height of 2,000 feet. In the 
interstices of the enormous granite boulders and on the plateaux 
grow fine timber trees. 

The town of Port Victoria overlooks a fine harbour, extending 
four miles each way, enclosed on all sides but the north by a 
chain of small islets, forming a natural breakwater. The 
harbour will contain at least 300 vessels, but on account of the 
vast coral beds, and numerous reefs, it is a difficult port to 
make. It is impossible to enter it without a pilot at night, 
from the intricate and badly marked-out channel. 

The temperature of the Seychelles, though they lie so near 
the Line, is much cooler than might be expected. The average 
mean day temperature is from 80° to 87° Far. ; the night, from 
70° to 74°. May is the hottest month. The constant breeze 
prevents the heat being oppressive, and it is always healthy, 
and blow which way it will, there are no marshes for it to pass 
over, and become laden with miasmatic vapours. Either 
' Siroc ' or ' Land Wind ' is unknown. Healthy as the climate 
is, with epidemics unheard of, the inhabitants are yet subject to 



426 LUXURIOUS ISLANDERS. [Ch. XXA'. 

some of the direst diseases that afflict the human frame. They 
are far from cleanly in their habits and persons, and their princi- 
pal meat is pork, and such pork, mostly fed on the garbage of 
the streets. The constant use of this most unwholesome food in 
a tropical climate poisons the blood, and is the root of many of 
the hideous diseases the people suffer from — hydrocele, sarcocele, 
elephantiasis, leprosy, &c. It is easy to trace its work — indiges- 
tion, dyspepsia, scrofula, leprosy, death ! 

The inhabitants are mostly mixed races. Some few of pure 
French descent remain ; but the great admixture of African blood 
has brought African indolence, want of truth, addiction to sensual 
pleasures, and an amount of want of energy so great, that such 
a raroj avis as a hard-working man scarcely exists in the island. 

Life is so easy ; and their only luxuries being rum and 
tobacco, which are so easily produced, no one takes more trouble 
than he or she can possibly help. The waters all round the 
shore abound with fine fish, captured without any difficulty ; 
manioc, their principal food, only requires a piece of the cut 
stalk to be placed in the ground, where it grows of itself ; the 
juice of the sugar-cane gives them rum, and can be bought at 
Is. 6d. a bottle ; and the finest tobacco is grown with little or 
no cultivation. 

The only item of any financial importance of the present day 
is cocoa-nut oil, for which a good market is always found at 
Mauritius. In 1862 the value of oil exported was over 10,000^. ; 
and if proper machinery were used, instead of the old wooden 
mills, a sort of pestle-and-mortar affair, and worked by an ox, 
such as has been used from time immemorial in India and 
Ceylon, the yield would be double that quantity. 

Vacoa bags for sugar are made by the lower class of women. 

Tobacco might be exported very largely, and of the best 
quality, but no care is taken in its manufacture, which is of the 
rudest. 

The coasts abound with green turtle, and the hawk's-bill turtle, 
from which the tortoise-shell of commerce is procured. The 
latter are, however, daily diminishing, and the former will soon 
abandon these shores to seek for a more undisturbed retreat to 
lay their eggs in. The flesh of the green turtle is used largely 
as food, and is, in fact, their beef. Only a very small portion 
of the shell can be used, and that merely for the commonest 
veneering purposes, yet enormous numbers are killed for that 



Ch. XXV.] FISHES. 427 

aloDe. In 1 862, 600 lbs. of ' cawan,' as it is called, were exported, 
and it is calculated 1,800 turtles were sacrificed for it, leaving, 
on an average, 490,000 lbs. weight of flesh to rot on the beach. 

The Beche de Mer, or Trepang, is very abundant near some of 
the islands, and might be made a profitable article of export to 
Singapore, also the fins and flukes of sharks. Many kinds of 
voracious monsters are common here : — Trygon Uarnak (M. 
and H.), the ferocious Hammerhead, Zygcena malleus (Shaw), 
the ' Demoiselle,' or Tiger Shark, Stegostoma fasciatum 
(Mull, and Hen. ). The ' L'Endormi,' or Basking Shark, Rhyncho- 
batus ancylostomus (Blk.), grows large, but has no teeth, only 
a hard long ridge ; is harmless and stupid. The ' Chagrin,' Rhi- 
nodon typicus (Smith), is frequently- foimd fifty feet long. Two 
species of sawfish are known to the fishermen — the Pristis 
antiquorum and Pristiphorus cirratus. The ' Eay boucle, 
Urogymnus asperrimus^ and ' Kay Vache,' Aetotatis narinari 
(Mull, and Hen.), are caught near the shores, and easily speared 
with the grains of a three-pronged harpoon : a single barbed spear 
is not enough to hold them. The Bone Shark, described by 
whalemen as often seventy feet long, will yield as much as 500 
gallons of oil from its liver. The ' Devil Fish ' is another 
monster of these seas, and gives rare sport in its capture ; and 
among the giants of the deep must not be forgotten the ' Preda- 
tory Whale,' Ginglymostoma brevicaudatum (Gunth). 

Smaller fish of hundreds of species are so abundant near 
many of the islands, that it is a common saying among the 
the fishermen, that ' There's more fish than water.' 

Internal Com'munication, (&c., in Mauritius. 

There are main roads leading from Port Louis to the prin- 
cipal places in the Island. Nearly all are macadamised and 
kept in order by Grovernment, while those diverging to various 
estates are attended to by the owners. Where pains are taken 
by the proprietors to improve the appearance of their planta- 
tions as well as their profits, the roads through the cane-fields 
are bordered with the YetiYert, Anatherum muricatuin (Beauv.), 
a pretty fragrant grass, a native of India, from which a fine essence 
is extracted. Formerly the roads were made by the soldiers ; 
then by Sepoys, convicts from India ; and now by bands of 
Indians, mostly prisoners, employed under the supervision of 
inspectors. 



428 RAILWAYS. [Ch. XXV. 

For some years two lines of railway have been in use, and 
have wonderfully changed the character of the inland traffic. 
They have become invaluable to the colony since the great 
influx of people into the country, away from the vitiated air 
of Port Louis. They are beginning now to bring in all the 
produce of the estates by rail ; and, as the wishes and con- 
venience of the majority of the proprietors are being studied 
by the Government, it is hoped they will be able to liquidate 
very soon some of the heavy debt incurred in the construction. 

The North line, opened for traffic in May, 1864, passes the 
following stations : — Terre Eouge, Callebasses, Pamplemousses, 
Mapou, Poudre d'Or, Riviere du Eempart, Flacq, Argy, and 
Riviere Seche, terminating at Grrand River SE., a distance of 
thirty miles from the city. This route has little interest, 
beyond the Pamplemousses gardens and village, and the ranges 
of hills lying to the right of the road. Nearly the whole is laid 
out in cane fields ; and the country is monotonous in the ex- 
treme, especially in long protracted dry weather, when the canes 
look miserable, and all nature generally lies under a heavy 
coating of dust. 

The maximum gradient on this line is 1 in 80 feet ; and, at 
its highest, only rises to the height of 329 feet above the sea, a 
little beyond Pamplemousses. There are fourteen bridges of stone 
and iron, with spans varying from twenty-five to eighty feet. 

The Midland line is far more interesting. It passes the 
stations of Pailles, Coromandel, Petite Riviere, Beau Bassin, 
Rose Hill, Quatre Bornes, Phoenix, Vacoas, Curepipe, Cluny, 
Rose Belle, Mare d' Albert, and Union Vale, terminating at 
Mahebourg, a distance of ?tD\ miles. 

The gradients of this line are very steep, frequently 1 in 27 
feet. Just beyond Curepipe the elevation is 1,822 feet above 
sea-level. There are 21 bridges. The principal are : — the St. 
Louis River bridge, with a single span of 90 feet, 25 feet from 
the bed of the river, and the viaduct over Grrand River of 5 
spans, 126 feet each, supported on fine pillars, and rising to a 
height of 140 feet above the ravine, through which Grrand River 
flows. From the time of leaving Port Louis the scenery is 
grand on this line, that is, for those with an appreciative eye 
for mountain ranges. Their forms change with every turn of 
the road, and as you gradually rise to Curepipe the configura- 



Ch. XXV.] INLAND COMMUNICATION. 429 

fcion of the Island is admirably seen. Those magnificent broken 
walls of the old-time craters, gigantic barriers of long extin- 
guished fires, stand, and most likely will stand while time lasts, 
as open books, wherein are clearly recorded the wondrous facts 
of other eras. Of all classes, those who seem most to appreciate 
the iron roads are the Indians, who use them on every possible 
occasion, and on fete days they swarm like bees round every 
station. The rates of traffic have been, and indeed still are, very 
high ; but the directors have seen fit to make some concessions 
to the public of late, and they are already finding their benefit 
in it. The planters of Savane are trying to get a branch line 
to their district, which produces sugar largely, and it is possible 
they may succeed when the railway debt is worked down to 
somewhat lesser dimensions. 

The inland mails were formerly despatched in mail carts 
daily to the principal places in the Island ; but now a post 
office is established at nearly all the stations, a great con- 
venience for those in the country. They have not, however, 
discovered the advantages of a penny post, for that sum is 
required for a newspaper, and twopence for a letter. 

A telegraph has been established along the railway lines, but 
does not as yet appear to give much satisfaction. 

Post-Office and Foreign Telegraph Scheme. 

The General Post-Office, as well as all other civil establish- 
ments, is in Port Louis. There are letter-boxes disposed in 
various parts of the city, and two daily deliveries of letters 
take place. The mails for Europe and elsewhere leave once a 
month by the steamers of the Messageries Imperiales Company, 
at a great cost to the colony. Formerly the service was per- 
formed by the steamers of the P. & 0. Company, for which was 
paid 36,000^. annually. Foreign postage is very high, par- 
ticularly via Marseilles ; and freights for packages most 
extortionate, 1^. per square foot being exacted. 

Once a month also arrive the mails, and only those who have 
lived in the Colonies can realise the excitement of this one day. 
Telescopes are incessantly levelled at the signal mountains in 
city and country ; and when the double balls are seen at the 
top of the signal mast, the Place d'Armes, quays and docks are 



430 TALKEE-TALKEE. [Ch. XXV. 

gradually thronged. As soon as the steamer anchors, boats 
innumerable put off up the harbour, and only wait the signal 
that she has received pratique (that is, shown a good bill of 
health), when her decks are at once crowded to get the first 
items of news, and welcome the passengers. A rise or fall in 
sugar, war or peace news, flies like magic to the shore and 
spreads through the city. Then the tedious waiting for letters. 
Supposing the mail arrives early morning, it will be at least 
two or three o'clock before any letters are delivered, save 
Government despatches. 

After being accustomed to the constant delivery of mails in 
America, I found it very trying to have to wait a whole month 
for news ; and such constant changes are made in the departure of 
mails, that often when our solitary one arrives, the chances are 
half our letters do not come, our friends not being at once aware 
of the change of date. When the colony was more prosperous 
there was a second mail per month, via Aden, and one by the 
United States Ship Company, via the Cape. But these are of 
the things that were, and I doubt will be long ere they are 
again. 

There has been much talk of a marine telegraph to connect 
Mauritius with India and Australia, and proposals have been 
talked over with both the Cape and India, but no result hitherto ; 
the finances of the colony not allowing of the necessary ex- 
penditure. Mauritius must, I suppose, in the ordinary course 
of things, be one day included in the ' Grirdle round the world,' 
but he would be a rash man who predicted ivhen such an event 
would take place. It took about sixteen or eighteen years for 
gas to be talked over before it became an accomplished fact. I 
believe the Mamitians beat the Yankees out and out in talk. 
They have been talking of sanitary measures for Port Louis for 
twenty years, and yet its gutters still give forth the foulest 
stenches. 

Hackney Coaches^ &c. 

Port Louis has a supply* of vehicles for hire always ready on 
the Place d'Armes, and at several livery stables. The owners 
are obliged to have a tariff of charges posted up in their car- 
riages (as they are called) and carrioles. The ordinary fare of the 
former for a single person is one shilling, and half price for a 



Ch. XXV.] DEFENCES. 431 

second to any place within the city limits, and two shillings for 
the longer distances, as prescribed by law. They may, how- 
ever, be hired for a dollar the horn' for three or four passengers. 
Almost all have been private carriages, too shabby for their 
owners, sold cheaply and fm'bished up a little for the stand. 
Formerly, these carriages were the only means of transport to 
the country, when the proprietor could make his own bargain, 
as he can now for that matter, anywhere beyond the prescribed 
limits. Of course there is but little call for hired carriages into 
the country since the establishment of railways, but incessant 
and regular traffic to and from the central station in Port 
Louis, especially on a rainy day, must nearly be an equivalent 
for the loss. 

The carrioles are two-wheeled vehicles, most miserable shaky 
affairs, with no steps, and only a seat behind the driver, but in 
great request with Indians ; the Chinamen, however, principally 
affect the carriages. 

Defences : Military, Naval, and Police. 

The jDOsition of Mam'itius and its possession of so fine a har- 
bour, docks, &c., have always rendered it of great importance to 
its government, giving it the command of the Indian Seas. 
With it France kept her footing in the waters, and was enabled 
to do infinite mischief to the Indian commerce of all other 
nations — a power lost to her for ever since the conquest of their 
Isle de France. England ruled this ocean for years after she 
became mistress of the Island, and it was literally a ' Half-way 
house ' to all outward or homeward bound vessels to and from 
the East. It was strongly fortified, and could, if well defended, 
have defied its enemies. Forts Greorge and William protect the 
harbom', Fort Adelaide commands the city ; Mahebourg has a 
battery ; there are military posts at Black Eiver, Flacq, Grrand 
Eivers NW. and SE., and many others now given up to the 
police. All this sounds well, but with the appliances and 
material of modern warfare, Mauritius would be ' knocked into a 
cocked hat ' in no time. 

Two regiments of the line, and detachments from the Eoyal 
Artillery and Engineers, were regularly stationed here, making 
a total force of 2,000 men. Now it is not considered necessary 
to keep more than a single battalion, with a few artillery and 



432 DOCKS AND POLICE. [Ch. XXV. 

engineers. This is a great relief to the heavily taxed colony, 
which had to pay 45,000^. annually as its quota towards the 
military establishment. 

Many causes have concurred to place Mauritius in a far dif- 
ferent position from that it formerly enjoyed. The prevalence 
of steamers over sailing vessels, preventing the necessity for 
constantly calling here for water and provisions ; the opening 
of the Suez Canal, giving a nearer route to the East than the 
long voyage round the Cape ; the terrible reverses of the colony, 
compelling them to relinquish direct communication with India 
and the Cape, except by the single monthly mail ; all have had 
a telling efifect on the Island. Besides these outward influences, 
there are many internal ones which have a powerful tendency to 
assist in her depreciation. 

The whole system of the customs, port dues, and in fact all 
connected with the shipping, is calculated to prevent foreign 
ships entering. No appeals are of any effect to get fair and 
liberal arrangements, and the decline in the shipping tells its 
own tale. Formerly, nearly all our large fleet of whalemen put 
in here, and left an enormous sum annually for supplies. They 
have, however, been charged such exorbitant rates for every- 
thing, from money downwards, and such heavy fees for custom 
and port duties, that they are nearly all leaving for Bourbon 
and the Cape. These places welcome them gladly, and give 
them fair and reasonable accommodation. The docks erected at 
such expense, where every repair a vessel needs can be done, yet 
lie idle two-thirds of the time, vessels fearing to come here on 
account of the extravagant charges for the smallest repairs. 
The Cape Town Docks will cut out the Mauritius ones, on ac- 
count of their liberal terms, and the greater expedition of the 
work. 

The police force has increased greatly of late years, and is 
taking the place of the military. They are in a fair state of 
discipline, considering the heterogeneous, and difficult to deal 
with, classes it is composed of — runaway sailors, discharged 
whalemen, seedy clerks, loafers of all nations, and men of all 
colours and races. 

They are under an inspector-general Cof late years always a 
military officer), a superintendent, and adjutant ; and they have 
a large staff of inspectors, sergeants, and corporals, besides the 



Ch. XXV.] MONEY MATTERS. 433 

numerous body of constables. The cost to the colony yearly for 
police, prisons, &c., is nearly 70,000^. 

The naval defence of these seas consists of seven of H. B. M.'s 
men-of-war, with their head-quarters at the Cape, and others 
called the Western African Division. It is rarely that any one of 
these vessels visits Mauritius, but they can easily be brought if 
required. 

Money^ Weights and Measures, &c. 

The coinage in use in ordinary transactions is chiefly decimal. 
All persons in business use dollars and centiemes ; the dollar, a 
fictitious coin of 100 centiemes, passing for 4s. ordinarily, but 
in reality only worth 95 cents. Then all English coins pass : 
the rupee 2s. or 50 cents, half a crown 2s. Qd. or 62J cents, 
shilling or 25 cents, sixpence or 12^ cents, with threepenn}^ 
and fourpenny pieces, pennies 2 cents, or a gros cash, half- 
pennies, centiemes or cash ; silver 3 cent pieces or 6 sous, far- 
things or sous, and a 3-farthing or 3 sous. The French francs, 20 
cents, and half francs 10 cents, were in constant use till lately, 
but are not now legal tender. Besides these, the livre, also 1 
cents, though only a nominal coin, was in great vogue, and the 
Creoles still use it. Such an amount of coins in circulation, and 
their various names, make a curious jumble, and it gives a 
stranger no end of worry, time and trouble, before he can be- 
come familiar with them. The Indians are not nearly such 
ready reckoners as the Creoles. They know little of the decimal 
parts of the various coins. They would not understand 93 
centiemes, but tell them a thing costs a dollar less 7 cents, and 
they are all right. They have certain standpoints, but they 
are mostly taken from livres ; thus, 3 livres 10 sous or 35 cents, 
7 livres 10 sous or 75 cents, 6 livres 5 sous or 62^ cents, and so 
on, and any between sums you must count as so many cash, less 
or more than one of these standpoints. They know all English 
coins well enough, and their English names too, and never fail 
to take advantage of your lack of knowledge in cashes. The 
3 sous or marquee is invaluable in the petty dealings with the 
Chinamen, and it is curious to see how many things are sold 
by a 3-sous worth. It is a queer thin flat coin, with the fleur- 
de-lis of France on one side, and a palm tree on the reverse, 
with a motto showing its destination was the Isle of France and 



434 



COINAGE. 



[Ch. XXV. 



Bourbon. I have some dated 1775 still in good preservation. 
It appears to have been a universal coin in the old slave times, 
and is a favourite way of calculating amongst the older Creoles ; 
thus, 25 marquees are 37 J cents or Is. 6(i., 16 for a shilling, 8 
for sixpence, and so on ; and all the cake-sellers (who are Legion) 
always vend their wares by 3 sous or 6 sous. 

In Grovernment offices, English pounds shillings and pence 
are the legal tender ; other coins are used, and the following 
table will show their value. ^ 



Gold. 

Doubloon of Spain, Mexico, or the States 
of South America ..... 

Gold mohur of the East India CDmpany,) 
coined since September 1, 1835 . .) 

Twenty-franc piece of France . 

Silver. 

Rupee of East India Company Territory,) 
coined since September 1, 1835 . •) 

Dollar of Spain, Mexico and States of] 
South America . . . . .) 

Five, two, and one franc pieces of France ; 
five francs of English Colonial money 
coined at the Royal Mint, of the same 
weight and fineness of Spanish dollar 

Dollar 

Half dollar 

Quarter dollar . 

Eighth dollar . 

Sixteenth dollar 

Dollar Decaen . 

Token 



The following are the weights and measures in general use 
in the colony : — 

In the transactions with the Military Commissariat Depart- 
ment, imperial weights are used ; in other transactions they 
are the same as those in France before the introduction of the 
metrical system in 1799, viz. : — 



£ 


s. 


d. 


3 


4 





1 


9 


2 





15 


10 





1 


10 





4 


2 





3 


lOi 





4 


4 





2 


2 





1 


1 








61 








3i 





4 











8 



See Blue Book for 1869. 



Ch. XXV.] WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 435 

100 lbs. French, Folds de marc, equal to 108 lbs. English, 
and the same proportions in the subdivisions, which are the 
ounce, gros, and grains. 

16 ounces make one pound 
8 gros „ „ ounce 
72 grains „ „ gros. 

The Quintal is 100 lbs. French. 

The Ton 20 quintals. 

Sugar is reckoned per pound or per quintal. 

Coffee per bag or 100 lbs. nett French. 

Cotton per bale or 250 lbs. 

Rice is sold per bag of 150 lbs. 

Measures. — In military transactions only imperial measures 
are used, but those for other purposes are French. 

The French foot is to the English in the proportion of 100 
to 92*89, or in common practice as 16 to 15. 

12 lines make one inch 
12 inches „ „ foot 

6 feet „ „ toise 

5 feet „ „ fathom. 

The Aune is forty-four inches, and is to the English yard as 
nine to seven ; every kind of cloth is measured and sold in this 
Island by the aune or ell. 

The Velte is equal to one gallon, seven pints 4-5 English, but 
is always taken as two gallons. One gallon = 0*608915 veltes, 
5 gallons = 3 veltes. 

In commercial transactions it is by the velte that every liquid 

is measm-ed. 

3 gills 1 

. r make one pint 

2 pints „ „ quart 

3 quarts „ „ gallon 
2 gallons „ „ velte. 

Nine English quart-bottles are generally considered equal to 
a velte and 40 drams to a gallon. 
A cask measures 30 veltes. 
The ton of sugar 2,000 lbs. French 

„ coffee 1,400 „ „ 

„ ebonv wood 2,000 lbs. PVench. 



436 MEASURES. [Ch. XXV. 

The ton of cotton 750 lbs. French. 

„ cloves 1.000 „ „ 

J, grain 2,000 lbs. or 13 bags of 150 lbs. 

„ liquids 120 veltes. 

„ square cut timber 32 cubic feet. 

^, boards 386 feet. 

„ shingles 35OOO in number. 
The arpent or acre is 100 square perches. 
The perch is 20 feet French. 
The tonnage of cases is 42 cubic feet measurement. 

These are all the legal weights and measures as published in 
the Government Blue Books. 

' Thus the limit of unass is the French pound. ^ The unit 
of length is the toise of 6 feet. The toise of Perou, made in 
Paris, 1735, by Langlois, under the direction of Grodin, is a 
bar of iron which has its standard length at the temperature of 
13° Eeaunaur. It is known as the toise of Perou because it 
was used by the French Academicians, Bougner and La Con- 
damine, in their measm'ement of an arc of the meridian in 
Peru. 

' The unit of area for land is the arpent of 40,000 French or 
45,434 English feet ; i.e. add 4J per cent, to convert arpents 
into English acres. 

' Water from canals is estimated by the p7i.se, or quantity that 
issues from a circular orifice of specified diameter and immer- 
sion, equal to 5 gallons English per minute. 

' The force of gravity has been determined for Mauritius ex- 
perimentally by Freycinnet and Duperez, using the second for 
the unit of time, and the English foot for the imit of space, and 
the mean value obtained in absolute units was 32*115; the 
calculated value. 

' Claraut's formula is 32-108 for sea-level, and 32*102 for 
2,000 feet altitude. It may be noted the value for Greenwich 
is 32,191, whence, in a comparison of the mercurial barometer 
with Greenwich or Masses by spring balances, a small correction 
becomes necessary. 

' The range of the tide has never been very accurately deter- 
mined for this Island ; but approximately it may be taken at 

' See Mauritius Almanack for 1870 — article by M. Conual, Esq. C.E. 



Ch. XXV.] BANKS. 437 

2 feet for spring tide, and the complement of the Port at one 
hour.' 

It would appear that the British Government, after the con- 
quest of the Island, to conciliate the French inhabitants, left 
them the greater part of their laws as well as their language ; and 
in over sixty years little change has been made, which renders it 
very difficult for Englishmen and foreigners to become con- 
versant with the intricacies of the laws and commercial regu- 
lations. Instead of a thorough knowledge of English being 
the absolute necessity for the English colony of Mauritius, it is 
imperative on anyone hoping to succeed to have the French 
language at his finger ends, or at least the French spoken here, 
which is far from being Parisian.^ 

Banks., Credit Fonder, &c. 

There are three banks established, the Commercial Bank, the 
oldest here, a branch of the Chartered Mercantile Bank of India, 
London and China, and the Oriental Bank Corporation. The 
latter owns a fine property in the Chaussee, where a large staff 
of clerks find constant employment. The building is commo- 
dious and handsomely furnished. The clerks are, most of them, 
sent from England, and the continuation of their appointments 
rests on their good behaviom: : they receive large salaries, and 
are most of them young gentlemen of good education. They 
keep up their English proclivities by their hospitable entertain- 
ments ; and once a year they give a select dancing party, at which 
the Governor and his lady attend. 

A large business is carried on by this bank, and a good deal 
of accommodation is allowed to planters ; but as a rule their 
rates of interest are higher than those of the other two banks. 

The Credit Foncier of Mauritius, Limited, and a branch of 

' I beg leave to quote the words of a friend (an Englishman) which appear to 
me particularly appropriate to this subject. 

' One great mistake we hare always made in our colonies and conquests. Few 
or no attempts have been tried to introduce our language, habits, and laws, and 
unless acquainted with all these, it is impossible a stranger can perfectly compre- 
hend our character. They appreciate the justice of laws, and fairness of our rule 
over that of many other nations, and yet we have taken little pains to enforce them. 
It would be a hard matter now to substitute English laws, as the French system is 
far more lucrative for the swarms of lawyers who crowd every court of justice in 
the Island.' 

Hh 



438 IND USTRIES. [C h. X XV. 

the Ceylon Company, Limited, are both in a flourishing condi- 
tion. These have for their object to make advances to the 
planters for the efficient working of their estates. 

There are no less than nineteen Insurance offices ; four local, 
the rest agencies for European and Australian Companies. 

Chambers of Commerce and Agriculture, 

EverjTbhing in the Island connected with its commercial and 
agricultural affairs is regulated by the Chambers of Commerce 
and Agriculture. The members of both are chosen from the 
leading men of the colony, and are frequently called upon as 
arbitrators in difficult cases in which the above interests are 
concerned. Their endeavours are also directed towards the 
advancement of any industry available for the colony. 

The Various Industries of Mauritius. 

Of course, pre-eminent stands the culture of sugar, which 
is carried to great perfection ; and the distilling of rum from 
the dregs of the sugar is next in importance. There are no less 
than 255 sugar estates, all in work, and 41 distilleries, the 
latter yielding nearly 500,000 gallons annually, and the former 
averaging between two and three million pounds a year. 

With the increase of sugar estates in cultivation has grown 
a corresponding increase in mechanical trades. Blacksmiths, 
coopers, wheelwrights, saddlers, workers in machinery, are 
numerous. Carpenters and stonemasons are in constant request ; 
all kinds of buildings requiring incessant attention to repairs, 
from the destructive action of the climate upon woodwork, and 
the inferior quality of the lime used for mortar rendering even 
stonework perishable, to say nothing of the ever-encroaching 
caries, wherever damp enters. Yet, in spite of this, house- 
owners appear to possess all the laissez-aller of the Island ; for 
it is not uncommon to see a fine building in a most dilapidated 
condition before its proprietor thinks it worth his while to 
repair it, and then most probably it has to be half pulled to 
pieces to get out all the caries-eaten wood. 

During the hurricane season large numbers of workmen 
obtain employment in the docks ; and at such seasons, and when 
the sugar crop is ready for shipping, all trades flourish that are 
connected with the marine. 



Ch. XXV.] COMMERCE. 439 

Jewellers' shops abound, from the grand establishment in the 
Chaussee, where you may gratify your taste in French gold and 
jewels, and lighten your pocket of fabulous sums, to the little 
rooms, a few feet square, where an Indian works all day mending 
trinkets for his countrywomen, or boring holes in gold and 
silver coins, for necklaces for these same jewel-loving dames. 
Very often when the possessor is hard up, these holes are filled 
with some base metal, and the coins passed at the boutiques. So 
great indeed was the trade in them, that it was taken in hand 
by the police, and it is now illegal to pass any coin that has been 
bored. They are, however, so cunningly wrought that you have 
to look out sharply when you take change from Creole, Chinaman, 
or Indian, and, even then, the chances are that yovJre done,. 

Provision shops seem to be the most numerous of any in the 
Island : whole streets are lined with them. Some stored with 
delicacies from France and England ; but hundreds of them so 
dingy and dirty, that one wonders how anyone could be tempted 
to eat anything out of them, eyes and nose being equally dis- 
gusted. 

In numbers of the stores yon may purchase a vast diversity 
of articles ; for instance, in your ironmonger's you may order a 
ream of writing paper with your saucepans, and seeds for your 
garden with the spade to dig it. 

Foreign Coynmerce. 

The Foreign Commerce of Mauritius extends to every quarter 
of the globe. Ships showing the flags of all nations may be 
seen during the year in the harbour of Port Louis. 

Sugar and rum being the only staple articles of export, every- 
thing for the general wants of the inhabitants must be imported. 
It is curious to read the lists of imported articles supposed to 
be requisites for general need. The most incongruous possible, 
or would be so, but for the strangely mixed population. The 
imports appear to be very large for so small a place ; but it 
serves now as an entrepot for Madagascar, and the Dependencies 
are supplied from it. In one year the value of these imports 
amounted to 12,190,000 dollars. 

The principal countries from which they are derived are : 
Grreat Britain, India, Australia, France, the Cape, JNIadagascar, 



440 TRADE ITEMS. [Ch. XXV. 

Peru, Pondicherry, Singapore, Eeunion, United States, Ceylon, 

the Dependencies, &c. 

* 

The following items will show the extent of trade carried on 
when the colony is flourishing during a single year : — 

10,980 oxen; 220 horses; 1,194 mules; 73,000 gunny bags 
and 47,500 vacoa bags, for sugar ; 864,000 bricks and tiles ; 118 
carriages; 1 9,000 tons of coal ; 75,000 cwts. of dhoU ; 171,000 
cwts. of grain ; 1,109,603 cwts. of rice ; 38,800 qrs. wheat ; 
29,459 cwts. of flour ; cotton goods to the value of 500,000^. ; 
215,893 pieces of glassware ; 20,926 looking-glasses; haber- 
dashery and millinery valued at 56,280^. ; hardware and cutlery, 
91,624^.; 420 tons of ice; 1,744 cwts. of leather; and 178,599 
boots and shoes ; machinery to the value of 25,500Z. ; 5,691 cwts. 
potatoes; 14,000 yards of silk; 56,000 gallons of brandy; 
26,713 lbs. of tea; 986,898 lbs. of manufactured tobacco: 
25,143 hhds. and 25,271 dozens of wine, &c. &c. These are 
only a very small portion of the imports, but they will give a 
fair idea of their range. 

Since the fever, a change has taken place in the imports of 
articles of luxury, which are greatly reduced ; though recovering 
from the effects of the epidemic, the failure of the crops for 
several years, in comparison with the expectations, has caused 
a general decadence in all commercial affairs. Fewer ships are 
needed to convey the sugar, and less goods can be imported ; 
business of all kinds suffers, everything connected with the 
marine is stagnant, and universal complaints are heard, and not 
without cause. It is difficult to surmise at the present time 
what can give new life to the colony, except very heavy crops, 
and they will soon be subject to such competition from other 
countries, that new industries must be found, if Mauritius is 
ever to make head against her commercial embarrassments. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

THE GOVERNMENT OF MAUEITIUS AND ITS VARIOUS ESTABLISH- 
MENTS, WITH THE DIFFERENT RELIGIONS IN THE COLONY. 

The Chief Officers of the Grovernment — The various Departments — Savings' Bank 
— Episcopal Church of Port Louis — Other Protestant Churches in the Colonj — 
Eoman Catholic Sacred Edifices — Convents — Mohammedan Mosque — Its Wor- 
ship — East and Eeast— Catholic Fete-Dieu — Procession — Raising the Host, &c. 

Like all the British Colonies, Mauritius is under the control 
of the Secretary of State for the Colonies, who appoints a 
Grovernor, subject to Her Majesty's approval, and is assisted 
by a Legislative Council. 

The official members are : — 

His Excellency the Governor, the officer commanding the 
troops, the Colonial Secretary, the Procurem' and Advocate- 
Greneral, the Colonial Treasurer, the Auditor- General, the Col- 
lector of Internal Revenues, and the Collector of Customs. The 
four first named constitute the Executive Council. 

The ten non-official members are selected by the Governor, 
nominated for life, but subject to the Queen's approval. 

The laws passed by the Council are called ' Ordinances,' and 
discussions, amendments, and additions accompany every Act. 

From a mixture of the English and French laws being in 
use, the government is a very complex affair. Most of the 
laws of the Code Napoleon are still in force, though now greatly 
modified. 

I will enumerate the various departments, which will show 
what intricate machinery has to be daily set going and kept in 
working order to carry on the government of this speck in the 
ocean : — 

The Council Office, Colonial Secretary's Office, the Treasury, 



442 GOVERNMENT. [Ch. XXVI. 

Savings' Bank and Audit Office, Survey or G-eneral Department, 
Botanical Grardens, Observatory, Museum, Civil Status, Customs, 
Port Department, Internal Eevenue, Eegistration and Mortgage 
Departments, Post Office, Supreme Court, Procureur and Advo- 
cate-General's Office, Vice- Admiralty Court. 

District magistracy, senior and junior magistrates of Port 
Louis, stipendiary magistrates for Pamplemousses, Eiviere du 
Eempart, Grand Port, and Plaines Wilhelms. Police force and 
gaols. 

District and stipendiary magistracy for Flacq, Savane, Black 
Eiver and Moka. 

Churches of England and Scotland. 

Eoman Catholic clergy. 

Eoyal College Government schools. Orphan Asylum, 

Medical department, Quarantine establishment. 

General Board of Health. 

Commissariat and Stamp office. 

Land Court and Archives. 

Eailway construction and working department. 

Poor Law Commission, and Immigrant department, Crown 
agents, and the affairs of Seychelles and Eodrigues. 

No wonder the sum of 800,000^. or 900,000^ per annum is 
demanded. The Governor alone of this little Island receives 
nearly 7,000^., while the President of the United States only has 
25,000 dollars, and all other Government officers are paid in 
proportion. 

In a work like this it would be out of place to enter into a 
detail of the functions of all the above establishments, which 
would demand volumes to perform satisfactorily, and write of 
all their uses, and a considerable amount of abuses in many 
of them. I will merely mention the Savings' Bank, which is 
beginning to play an important part with the Indian popula- 
tion. It was long before they could be brought to trust their 
earnings out of their own hands. They are excessively sus- 
picious, and the slightest circumstance is sufficient to induce 
them to withdraw their money. A very little would destroy 
their confidence, and cause a run on the bank. However, by 
convincing them that they can draw out their money at any 
time, they are, by degrees, changing from a most improvident 
to a thrifty race. It is but fair to say they distrust each other 



Ch. XXVI.] RELIGION. 443 

equally, if not more so, than they do the whites. It is curious 
to see how readily they avail themselves of the stamped papers, 
lately made obligatory for all receipts, in their transactions with 
each other. 

In most of the departments the heads are chosen from English, 
either here or sent from England. Grreat numbers of Creolesr 
are employed, but almost all in subordinate offices. 

The different Forins of Religious Worship, luith the principal 
Sacred Edifices in the Island. 

The Episcopal Church is represented by a Bishop, under the 
title of ' Lord Bishop of Mauritius and its Dependencies ' (his 
diocese extending to the Seychelles Islands), civil and military 
chaplains ; several English clergymen ; two native ones for the 
Tamul and Bengalee chmxhes, and one for the mariners. 

The principal building for the use of the Established Church is 
St. James's Cathedral before mentioned. It was erected, in 1741, 
for a powder magazine, with walls from eight feet to ten feet 
thick, a dome-shaped roof, bomb proof, and slits for its only 
openings. When the British took Mauritius, this ungainly 
building being no longer required for its original purpose, it 
was proposed to use it for a Protestant Church. (Would to Grod 
that every powder magazine in the whole world could be con- 
verted thus 1) Square windows were let into the walls, and in 
1828 the dome was changed for a new roof, and the present 
steeple and porticoes were added. 

In 1846 the congregation had so increased that two wings 
were built on, giving it the form of a cross, and an organ gal- 
lery was raised. The pews are all of teak wood, and the Com- 
munion window is of stained glass, presented by one of the 
church members. Marble in-Tnemoriam slabs cover the walls ; 
and a handsome Grothic monument adorns the chancel, raised to 
the memory of the Rev. Mr. Banks, who lost his life through 
his untiring zeal in behalf of the sufferers by the cholera of 
1854. 

The grounds round the Cathedral are enclosed by a high iron 
railing, and the avenues to the different entrances are shaded 
by fine Banyan, and the lovely Bauhinia, and Flamboyant trees. 

There are three full services here every Sunday, two in English 



444 SCHOOLS. [Ch. XXVI. 

and one in French, besides one in the early morning for the mili- 
tary when the troops are in Port Louis. 

On Wednesday evenings service is also held, but the atten- 
dance is very poor since so many English have left the city. 
There is a school-room attached, but no school has been 
lield there since the time of Bishop Eyan : it is now, however, 
used for the congregation of St. Mary's, while that church is 
being rebuilt. 

At Failles, Pamplemousses, Moka, Grrand Port, Vacoa, and 
Plaines Wilhelms are churches, besides temporary ones in vari- 
ous parts of the Island. The Church Missionary and London 
Societies have been working since 1814, principally among the 
Indian population. 

There are Tamul schools for religious instruction in various 
places. At Creve-Coeur there is the principal mission school, 
where the children are also taught all kinds of useful work. 
The Eev. Mr. Hobbs and his wife are most energetic in their 
endeavours to spread the light of Christianity in the dense dark- 
ness of superstition and idolatry still surrounding thousands of 
the population in Mauritius ; and though their progress is slow, 
it will surely do much eventually in changing the moral condi- 
tion of the Indian races. 

In Poudriere Street is a chapel for the Independents, for many 
years under the charge of the Eev. Mr. Le Brun, and now in 
his son's hands, Grreat good has been done among the Creole 
population (of whom there is a large congregation on Sundays 
and week evenings) from their system of house to house visiting. 

The Wesleyans have lately appeared in the field. A minister 
was sent here about two years ago, and it is said that he 
made a great many converts among the soldiers : be that as it 
may, I believe he has already left the colony, and has not been 
replaced. They have no chapel. 

The only church for the Presbyterian form of worship is well 
attended. 

There is a small number of members of the New Church ; but 
they have no public building for divine service, so for the present 
they meet at the house of Mr. de Chazal. 

The Eoman Catholic religion is certainly the prevailing one, 
and is coeval with the settlement of the French in the Island. 
It is presided over by a Bishop, who is called ' the Bishop of Port 



Ch. XXVI.] ROMAN CATHOLICS. 445 

Louis,' and a large staff of priests. The Catholics, however, like 
the Protestants, are at this moment without a head. They 
have seventeen churches and about thirty-two chapels in the 
different districts. 

Their principal building, the Cathedral of Port Louis, is in 
Grovernment Street, standing in a square shaded by old trees, 
and its western fafade has a distant resemblance to that of 
Notre Dame in Paris. In front is a fountain, with a large cross 
near it about ten or twelve feet high. This, on certain days, is 
hung over with garlands of flowers, and bouquets are placed at 
its foot in such quantities that I have seen it almost bm'ied 
beneath them. The Cathedral has the best clock in the city, 
and its deep tones may be heard nearly to its limits. On the 
roof are two very unsacerdotal ornaments, two small cannons, 
that used to be fired on the day of the Fete-Dieu, at the moment 
the Host is raised on the Champ de Mars. The inside is very 
plain, the whitewashed walls are covered with a series of 
paintings representing the various scenes of our Saviour's 
sufferings previous to His crucifixion. There is a fine altar- 
piece, and the usual display of golden candlesticks, statues of 
the Virgin and Saints, and the ordinary paraphernalia of the 
altar, interspersed with large vases filled with artificial flowers, 
all votive offerings. 

In the month of May, or ' Mois de Marie,' the altar and walls 
are profusely decorated, at a great expense, with flowers made 
by the ladies of the congregation, under the superintendence of 
the Dames de St. Paul. 

There are Catholic chapels in all the villages ; but the only 
other in the city is that of the ' Immaculee Conception,' in St. 
Greorge's Street, a temporary building, in wood, far more elegantly 
decorated than the Cathedral. This is used pending the erection 
of a fine edifice in stone, which will be the chef-d'oeuvre of the 
city when completed. I fear this generation will not enjoy its 
beauty, as it is over twelve years since its foundation-stone was 
laid, and, except a part of the clock tower, the walls are only 
about ten or twelve feet high. 

There are two Convents, one in Eempart, and the other in 
Bourbon Street. The former is occupied by the Soeurs de Cha- 
rite, who devote the greatest part of their time to the care of 
the sick. They have an hospital adjoining the convent, where 



446 THE MOSQUE. [Ch. XXVI. 

many a poor wretch, sick unto death with cholera or fever, has 
blessed their pious cares and gently tending. 

At the Convent of Loretto is a school where numbers of young 
ladies are educated, or sent for the seclusion necessary for the 
preparation attendant on their first communion. Behind the 
Cathedral of Port Louis is the Eoman Catholic Bishop's residence; 
Palace it is called, but realises little of one's ideas of a palatial 
house, entirely surrounded by an upper and lower verandah, 
doubtless rendering it very cool in the heat of summer. 

In Royal Street stands the Mohammedan Mosque, conspicuous 
from its white dome and minarets. When completed it will be 
a fine structure ; the small part within that is finished is very 
handsome, with its tessellated pavement and carved pillars. In 
the court is a fountain of deliciously cool water, to which descend 
a flight of steps, where the faithful wash their feet, and lea v.' 
their slippers before entering the sacred precincts. The whole 
of the front is a mere shell at present, and a wooden partition 
screens it from the street, outside of which are little shops of a 
few feet square lighted up at night, where may be bought cakes, 
cigars and Turkish slippers, and a barber plies his trade. 

This mosque has been already twenty years in building, and 
it is expected to take ten more before it is completed. The 
expenses are defrayed by the Arabs and Lascars of the Moham- 
medan persuasion, and a large fund is yearly raised by an impost 
of a halfpenny on every bag of rice sold to them. All the stone, 
lime, and wood are sent from Bombay, and the workmen are 
nearly all from Calcutta. During the time they are at work, 
they remain together in the mosque, sleeping and eating under 
the pillared arches of the outer coiurt. 

Every evening the priest calls to the faithful from the 
minareted roof to come to prayers, and after gun-fire, or 8 
o'clock P.M., they begin to pour in. 

In the centre of the court is a Badamia tree ; and as you stand 
under it on a clear night, myriads of stars glittering over head, 
it is not difficult to fancy yourself transported to some Oriental 
land, where Allah alone is worshipped. The recess where prayers 
are read is resplendent with the brilliant light from the large 
chandeliers ; the tall white-robed Arabs, after their ablutions, lay 
aside their belts and upper coats that the free motion of the 
body may not be impeded dm*ing their numerous genuflexions ; 



Ch. XXVI.] FE'rE-DIEU. 447 

and you gaze wonderingly as they keep up an incessant bowing 
with their foreheads to the ground and rising up to their full 
height, muttering monotonous responses to the prayers. It 
appears like a dream as you watch them, and but for the quiet 
earnestness of their manner, showing their thorough belief in 
what they are about, it would provoke a smile. 

During the daytime they will allow a heretic to enter and 
examine the place, but in the evening admission is only given 
to certain limits. They will, however, answer any questions 
with a politeness which puts to shame the brusquerie of English 
pew-openers. 

The 15th of January is the new year of the Mohammedans, 
and for forty days previously a fast is held, called ' Eid,' during 
which time food is only allowed to be taken in the evening after 
sunset. It terminates on this day ; and after morning prayers a 
feast is given in the mosque to all the poor, halt, and blind of 
their persuasion, who have seats placed for them, and after a 
hearty breakfast each has a piece of money given him. Every 
attendant at prayers on the loth and the preceding day is 
expected to take some present, either rice, fruit, or money, which 
is all scrupulously devoted to the feast of the poor. 

There is a small mosque at Plaine Vert, for the Lascars, who 
appear to follow a spurious kind of Mohammedanism. 

While on the subject of the various forms of religious worship 
exercised in Port Louis, it may not be out of place to give a 
short description of how the principal fete of the Eoman 
Catholics is carried out in Mauritius — the Fete-Dieu. 

The Fete-Dieu. 

The very words will recall the imposing ceremonies in the 
imperial city — its interminable processions displaying all the 
pomp of papacy. 

But, alas, what a falling off is here ! However small an affair 
it is to those accustomed to the religious fete days of Italy and 
Spain, it is a grand day for Port Louis. 

From earliest morn the bells of the Cathedral and Church of 
the Immaculee Conception ring out loudly to call all devout 
Catholics to the services of the day. It is a general holiday ; 
all public offices are closed, and few women servants are supposed 
to be in attendance on that occasion. 



448 A FETE. [Ch. XXVI. 

For weeks previously a special toilette is in course of prepara- 
tion ; many a poor family could speak of scant dinners that 
all may shine resplendently in new costumes at the Fete-Dieu. 

Towards noon crowds pour up the different thoroughfares to 
the Cathedral, which is decked outside with greenery, and the 
large cross facing it hung with garlands, and the steps to it 
covered with bouquets. 

Kows of palm and cocoa-nut leaves are carried up Grovern- 
ment Street, and continued to the top of the Champ de Mars, 
where an altar is erected under a sort of arbour. 

The police keep the way clear from carriages, and after con- 
siderable trouble the procession begins. 

Files of women of every shade, from tawny to black, crowned 
with wreaths of roses, or white veils, or both (contrasting 
cm*iously with their dark skins), proceed leisurely up the street ; 
delicate fair girls, dressed in the prettiest costumes, veiled, 
booted, all in pure white, but in a shower of ribbons and flowers 
that flutter down from the silken embroidered banners they 
bear. 

Very small fairies, aptly termed ' Les Anges,' trip along, 
carrying baskets of flowers, and they also wear dainty white 
satin shoes. I was told that only a few years ago a number of 
little children, chosen from the best families, were always present, 
dressed in a white gauzy texture with wings, and their pretty 
little feet bare. Heat and fatigue and often a heavy shower 
wetting them through caused such severe illnesses that generally 
one or more fell victims to the cruel practice, so it has happily 
been abandoned. 

The children of the different Catholic girls' schools are there 
in great force with their teachers, all in white ; but each "pension 
has its own peculiar colour for ribbons, trimming, &c. Very 
demure the older girls look, and the little ones try to imitate 
them ; but it is a failure, their little sparkling eyes betraying 
their enjoyment of the scene, and that only the severe looks of 
Madame or Mademoiselle restrain the pretty little romps in 
order, or the sharp but subdued ' Attention, Mesdemoiselles ! ' 
heard along the line. 

The boys' schools muster also, dressed in their best. 

All the nuns and priests of Port Louis, the Catholic soldiers 
of the different regiments, the {soi-disant) converted Malabars, 
and crowds of spectators fill up the procession. 



Ch. XXVI.] CATHOLIC CEREMONIES. 449 

In the centre, under a heavy gold embroidered canopy, sup- 
ported by four gentlemen, walks Monseigneur, bearing the 
sacred burden with uplifted hands. 

The present Bishop ^ is a fine handsome man, and he needs to 
be a strong one to support the weight of velvet, satin fringes, 
and tassels he wears, and the heat and fatigue of the procession. 

Little boys, in flowing garments, hover round him swinging 
censers that send forth clouds of incense at intervals. The band 
of the regiment is in attendance, and plays the most solemn 
music ; and as they cease, the strains are caught up by the 
priests, and an especial service is chanted nearly the whole way, 
occasionally joined in by everyone. 

Slowly they reach the altar at the head of the Champ de 
Mars ; file after file passes, humbly saluting the raised Cross, and 
they descend the avenue of palm-leaves in the centre. 

By the time Monseigneur arrives at the altar the vast plain 
is filled with spectators, mostly on foot. As soon as the Bishop 
prostrates himself before the Cross, a suppressed murmur sweeps 
through the crowd announcing the fact ; a sudden halt 
takes place, and down on their knees go the whole assembled 
multitude. 

Silence the most profound reigns, as Monseigneur kisses and 
holds up the Host. Turning to face the crowd, he appeared to 
be pronouncing a blessing, but, of course, too indistinct to be 
heard far off. Every male head is uncovered, unless a few 
not of this faith should be there, and they are instantly con- 
spicuous by the erect postiu-e and hatted head. 

After kneeling some time, they rise with a triumphant song 
of praise that resounds to the farthest limits of the Champ de 
Mars. 

All return down the central avenue to the Cathedral, and 
often the ceremony is not over till quite dark. 

It not unfrequently happens that a smart shower overtakes 
them when high up on the plain, and then they return home 
with draggled dresses and drooping banners, in a woful plight. 

Formerly the moment the Host was raised, guns were fired 
from the roof of the Cathedral, but this custom is now dispensed 
with. 

' Since writing the above, this gentleman left for the (Ecumenical Council, and 
was taken ill and died in Korae. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

THE BOYAL COLLEGE, PRIVATE AND GOVERNMENT SCHOOLS, 

AND THE MUSEUM. 

Schools when the Island was under French Rule — M. Boyer — Assistance given to 
him — Rules and Course of Instruction in the Colonial College — Its Use as a 
Hospital — Its Rehabilitation, and new Title — Pupils sent to the Royal College 
from Abroad — Hurricane in 1824 — Repairing Damages — A Pupil sent yearly to 
England — Disciplinary Reform by Mr. Redle — Causes of Pailure — A more 
practical Education required — A new Rector and new Hopes — Schools suffering 
from the Fever in 1867 — English taiight, but small Results — Effect and Show 
too much sought for in Education — Music — Eoys' Schools — Government Schools 
— Unwillingness of Coolies to be taught — Sums collected notwithstanding Eever 
— Curious Notes on the Effect of Eever on various Studies — Oriental and Creole 
Characters — Course of Studies — Number of Schools, Teachers, &c. — Visit to the 
'Asile' — State of the Place when first occupied — Its present Aspect — Varied 
Races — Products of Grounds — Rules and Regulations — Dinner — Drill — Bed- 
time — First Natural History Society — Its Aims — Its Prospects under Governors 
Farquhar and Hall — The Society of 1829 — Baron Cuvier — Foreign Corre- 
spondents and Members — Allowance for a Curator — MM. Desjardins and 
d'Epinay — The Society's Name in 1847 — Exhibitions — The one in 1860 — Early 
Morning Scenes at an Exhibition — Ordinary Articles exhibited — The Visitors — 
Collections in the Museum— Paintings — M. Louis Bouton. 

Several public establishments for the instruction of youth had 
been tried by the colonists before the one now existing under 
the title of the Royal College, but although more or less sus- 
tained by Government, they never appeared to answer their 
original purpose, and were all successively abandoned by their 
promoters. 

The best known of these were, the school founded by M. 
Challan ; that of M. Michelet, which bore the title of College, 
in 1791 ; and one established by MM. Jobert and Bellon, in 
1792, near the Champ de Mars. To these succeeded the collegiate 
institution of M. Boyer, which may be called the cradle of the 
present College, which numbered many pupils, and was the most 
esteemed of all. At this period colom'ed children were not* 



Cn. XXVIL] EDUCATION. 451 

educated with those of the white population, but there were 
private schools for them in different parts of the town. 

The question of education seems to have been one of great 
difficulty in those days. It was a choice between sending their 
children to Europe, to encounter the dangers of the passage and 
the uncertainty of their being properly cared for when they 
arrived; or keeping them here under the parental eye, and 
confiding their instruction to incompetent professors. 

Grreat anxiety was felt as to M. Boyer's success, and when it 
was found that failure was inevitable unless the Government came 
to his rescue, the case was laid before the Assembly in 1797. 
Measures were taken to assist M. Boyer in sustaining his college ^ 
to whom a fixed sum was paid monthly from the Treasury. 

The establishment then received the title of ' Colonial Col- 
lege ; ' a committee was chosen from the members of the colonial 
assembly, which, under the names of ' Instituteurs honoraires,' 
was charged with the surveillance of this college, and all the 
schools in the Island. 

Fixed rules were laid down for the instruction to be adopted, 
and a place called ' Vauxhall,' at the Champ de Lort, was chosen 
where another school, called ' L'Ecole centrale,' was established, 
to be the fountain head of all other schools, and to it was an- 
nexed a drawing department, and one for hydrography. 

The Principal and professors were all paid by Grovernment. 
Annual distributions of prizes were also established, and every- 
thing connected with education was entrusted to the commis- 
sion, and its president received the title of ' Director-general of 
Public Instruction.' 

The central school changed its name under Greneral Decaen 
to the ' Lycee des Isles des France et Eeunion,' some amend- 
ments were made in the studies, &c., and military training was 
added, to the great delight of the pupils. 

The taking of the Island by the British gave a temporary 
shock to this institution. The Lyceum had been evacuated by 
the pupils by Government order on the expected descent on the 
town. It was trnnsformed into a hospital for the sick and 
wounded of the British army. The inhabitants feared this 
would be the annihilation of their College, but as soon as the 
most urgent needs of the new government were cared for, Mr. 
P^arquhar took measures to reinstate it ; and, after an interval of 



452 SCHOOLS, ETC. [Ch. XXVII. 

six months, the ' Colonial College 'was re-opened, June 15, 1814. 
During the time of the French, twenty-four boarders were ad- 
mitted free by Grovernment, and the English added to them 
twelve half-boarders.^ 

There were at that time 250 pupils. Boarders paid twenty 
dollars a month, and half-boarders twelve ; day scholars only 
paying five dollars. They all wore a uniform jacket, with blue 
sleeves, red collars, and gilt buttons. In 1813 a Professor was 
appointed to teach the Malagash language, in order to facilitate 
the intercourse with the island of Madagascar. 

Education was ever one of the principal objects of solicitude 
to Governor P^arquhar. He placed the institution under the 
protection of H. E. H. the Prince Eegent (afterwards George 
IV.), who was graciously pleased to order that for the future it 
should be called the Eoyal College, and the choice of professors 
and committee was reserved for the home Government. 

Two vacations of a fortnight only were allowed during the 
year, which were always preceded by public eliminations, and 
succeeded by a distribution of prizes, given with much ceremony, 
in presence of the Governor, the civil and military authorities, 
and a large concourse of spectators. Monthly examinations 
also took place of the different classes, when silver crosses and 
divers coloured ribbons were awarded. 

To excite the zeal of the students still further, additional 
prizes were granted, the recipients to be chosen by Government, 
to enable the pupils whose progress merited such honour to be 
sent to the European universities. The professors taught the 
English, French, Latin, and Greek languages ; writing, geo- 
graphy, history ; mathematics, including navigation, drawing, 
architecture, botany, physics, and the elements of chemistry. 

Such was the estimation in which the College was held, that 
pupils were constantly sent to it from India, Bourbon, &c. 

In 1819 a hurricane injured the building severely, but the still 
more violent one of February 23, 1823, drove the whole upper 
part off the basement. One of the professors was seriously in- 
jured ; and but for the courage of the Eector and professors most 
of the pupils would have been sacrificed. Sir G. Lowry Cole 
caused the edifice to be rebuilt on a solid foundation, but it 

' These were added on the condition that a third of the whole should be of 
Cnglish origin. 



Ch. XXVIl.] EDUCATION. 453 

was long before its completion. However, a temporary residence 
was found, and the studies were continued in it with little inter- 
ruption. 

The two former stories of wood were raised on a good stone 
foundation, and flanked by two wings, each ^'q feet long by 30, 
also of stone. 

After the re-opening of the College, the red collar of the uni- 
form was exchanged for a yellow one, and the price of the day 
scholars was raised to six dollars. 

In 1838 great complaints were made as to the changes in the 
manner of education, and the disorders prevalent. 

In 1 845 a despatch was published, authorizing the Government 
to send to England yearly the pupil who most distinguished 
himself. 

It would appear that there must have been lax discipline for 
many years, till the evil had become so hydra-headed as to need 
a thorough reorganisation of the whole system. 

Disciplinary reform, well conceived and absolutely neces- 
sary, was attempted by the late Eector, Mr. Eedle, on his 
arrival. 

Some few abuses were corrected, but the new order of things 
proved a total failure. That gentleman was totally unfitted for 
his task. In the first place, the fact of his being an Austrian 
displeased both English and French ; his overbearing tenaper 
and utter want of conciliation and tact, the ' fortiter in re ' ever 
employed and the ' sauviter in modo ' equally ignored, in a post 
rendered exceedingly difficult to hold in the then state of affairs, 
prevented the hoped-for advantages accruing from the really 
commendable reforms he tried to establish. There was constant 
war between the rector and professors, and the pupils gradually 
fell off. Mr. Redle through all his career showed himself to 
be one of those square men, who always try to fit themselves into 
a round hole ; the result may be imagined. 

There has always been a magic to the Mauritian people in the 
words ' Eoyal College,' which was long the academic grove 
whence the brightest intelligences received their culture. The 
rectorship of Mr. Redle nearly ruined it, and notwithstanding 
its old jprestige^ it will take time before its popularity can be 
restored. At the present time the private schools are far out- 
stripping the College pupils. 

I I 



454 SCHOOLS. [Ch. XXVII. 

The needful studies for fitting boys for filling positions in the 
world as engineers, architects, merchants, planters, (fee, are 
completely ignored, whilst too much importance is given to 
acquiring a little Latin and Grreek. Of course the College has 
sent forth many bright scholars who have done honour to both 
school and professors, but in the present day they are the ex- 
ceptions, not the rule. 

A fair field is opened to youths both white and coloured, all 
meet now on equal terms^ to try the superiority of their intel- 
lects. Many of the coloured lads have attained honourable 
posts by their perseverance ; many of those sent to England by 
Grovernment have belonged to this class, and they have returned 
to Mauritius as doctors, lawyers, &c. 

It is to be hoped that such a thorough reform will take place 
under the Rector newly installed, that the Royal College will 
rise again to its former place in the estimation of its true 
friends. From the prospectus proposed by Mr. Bruce he evi- 
dently appears to see very accurately what the requirements of 
the case are, and if properly aided, will, I do not doubt, prove 
to be the right man in the right place. 

Private and Government Schools. 

When everything else was at a standstill during the fever, in 
1867, schools naturally suffered to a great extent; and when 
re-opened, it was long ere parents could be induced to send 
their children regularly, whilst liable to be struck down at any 
moment, and perhaps before they could be taken home, the 
attack was so serious, as either to end fatally, or leave the poor 
little patient ill for weeks. 

Some of the old established schools were nearly ruined ; and it 
was only towards the middle of 1868, that confidence was 
sufficiently restored for the usual course of study to be resumed. 

English is taught in all the schools, but judging* from the 
small amount of it spoken, with no great results ; English being 
the exceptional, not the ruling language. 

The rising generation is, however, making greater progress, 
and I have conversed with young men who have not left the 
Island who speak well, and write far better English. Some 
letters I have received from clerks applying for places, 
or on business, display an amount of grandiloquence quite 



Ch. XXVIl.] 'SCHOOLS. 455 

astounding ; though nothing can beat the letters of the Indian 
Creoles who can write English at all. I have a specimen by me 
I copy for the benefit of future applicants for help under in- 
teresting circumstances.^ 

I find many more English ladies speak French than the 
reverse. French ladies as a ride are very shy of sporting their 
knowledge of our language ; but I am sure, if they knew how 
prettily and softly their English with a French accent falls on 
our ears from their lips, they would be less chary of their speech. 

The boys seem to have a better education than the girls, 
though theirs is far below the European or American standard. 

In the schools for the latter, they go in too much for long 
recitations (for which they have marvellous memories), music, 
embroidery, and other things that make a show, to leave room 
for a very solid foundation, except where private tuition has been 
employed, and there the result is markedly different. 

Music is a Creole passion, and it is greatly cultivated, and 
with success. There are plenty of excellent pianists as teachers, 
and the most difficult music of the Grerman masters is found in 
very many families. The system employed, however, tends to 
make dashing performers, and one often longs for something 
softer and quieter than a brilliant Tiiorceau from an opera. 
Ballad music, except in a few English houses, is unknown ; and 
sacred music, except with the few who sing in the churches, is 
unheard. Every piano seems scrupulously closed on Sunday ; 
unless in some Catholic family you may chance to hear a stirring 
waltz or polka, when their day's devotions are over. 

The boys' schools are many of them ably conducted, and they 
have turned out many accomplished scholars. I find amongst 
the boys generally a woful deficiency in geographical science. 
It appears to hold the lowest place in Creole estimation, whilst 
in reality it should be made the connecting link with so many 
other sciences. 

The Government schools have increased greatly within tlie 
last twenty years, in spite of the periodical troubles they have 
passed through since 1850. 

I glean the following information from a Eeport on schools, 
by Mr. J. Comber Browne, superintendent of government schools, 
who kindly placed it at my disposal. 

' See Appendix, p. 511. 



456 EDUCATION", [Ch. XXVII. 

Since 1850, repeated visitations of cholera, and the long 
protracted malarial fever, each in turn nearly brought the schools 
to a dead stop. In every instance, however, they have survived 
the shock, and shown a degree of vitality and elasticity truly 
remarkable. 

It is to be regretted, however, that the machinery is still 
inadequate to meet the growing wants of the colony. Thousands 
of children are yet unreached, and uninfluenced by any direct 
civilising agent whatever. 

At one time the greatest indisposition was shown by the 
coolies to su)>mit to any kind of education. This has been 
overcome, and teachers have been found to undertake the 
irksome task : funds alone are wanting to carry on the work. 

The Government schools are professedly secular as to their 
curriculum of studies, but in most all the ministers of different 
creeds have ample facilities for instructing the children in their 
religious duties. 

Since the fever, there have been great difficulties in collecting 
the fees under pressure of circumstances. 1,050 orphans are on 
the books ; 870 have lost one parent, and 180 both : of course, 
on the latter it was impossible to impose a fee. 50 pupils died, 
and 500 were withdrawn, mostly from sickness. Nevertheless, 
the sum of 490Z. was collected during the year 1868. 

It appears from official returns that these schools have been 
productive of great good ; only nine pupils have been tried, and 
convicted of any crime by the magistrates. 

It is stated that a decline of 30 per cent, in point of pro- 
ficiency in the general range of instruction has taken place. 

It is rather curious to note Mr. Browne's remarks on this 
subject, and they might serve as fertile ideas to be worked out 
by some philosophic brain. 

He says : ' The mechanical subjects, such as mapping and 
penmanship have not fallen off much ; nor has mental arith- 
metic fallen greatly into arrear ; but languages and their auxi- 
liaries have suffered considerably.' 

The teachers have uphill work to contend with in the pecu- 
liar vices of the native population. Falsehood, petty thefts, 
and absence of self-help are rampant in every school ; and I fear 
it will be long before these truly Oriental characteristics will be 
eradicated, if ever. The superintendent has had long experience 



Ch. XXVI I.J SELF-HELP. 457 

of both Indian and Creole characters, and he thus emphatically 
writes : ' Comparing the apprentice with the poor Indian 
labourer, the contrast is by no means favourable to the former. 
While at work, and in the receipt of good pay, he is improvi- 
dent and a spendthrift ; out of work, a helpless pauper. Should 
sickness overtake him, he flies to his priest for aid, and to his 
relations for shelter ; these failing, he soon starves and dies ; 
and no one can deny that this has been the fate of hundreds 
during the epidemic' 

I can endorse this statement from my own observation. 

That they have no idea of self-help is true to the letter. I 
have seen poor wretched starving Indians gladly earning a 
few pence to get a meal, and making the most of it ; and again 
strong able Creoles who will beg from anyone they think likely 
to give. When offered a day's work, they will either refuse it, 
if it requires much personal exertion, or demand a high price, 
which if given, they loiter half their time away to spin out the 
work ; and if refused, they go off in a huff, and resume their 
begging. 

In spite of all the obstacles to success, the Grovernment schools 
during the year 1868 sent out boys to fill the following positions : 
Twenty- two were apprenticed to carpenters ; twenty-three as 
clerks in mercantile, telegraph, and other offices ; thirteen are 
employed by engineers ; seven engaged in sugar factories ; six 
have become assistants in schools ; twenty-five have been dis- 
tributed among the trades of smith, mason, coach builder, 
painter, &c., and two have obtained Eoyal College scholarships. 
All this speaks well for the practical nature of the studies in 
these schools. 

The course of instruction comprises English reading and 
translating into French ; French reading and translating into 
English, Geography, the world in general, and England and Mau- 
ritius in particular : outline mapping and physical geography : 
English and French grammar ; arithmetic ; the respective values 
of Imperial and Colonial money, making out accounts appli- 
cable to the requirements of the colony, calculating interest, 
&c. &c. 

The school staff consists of fifty-three masters, twenty-one 
mistresses, and eighteen assistants. The official work is carried 
on by the superintendent (who is also Secretary to the Com- 



458 REFORMATORY. [Cii. XXVII. 

mittee of Education, and Inspector of Elementary Schools and 
Reformatories), an accountant, and copyist. 

The number of Government schools is . . . . . .52 

Schools assisted by grants ........ 42 

Reformatories .......... 2 

96 

There are also departments under Creole and Indian teachers, 
which raise the number to 117. 

Sixteen elementary schools were obliged to close on account 
of fever ; yet at the end of the year there were 5,821 children 
on the books. 

Besides the above, there is the Indian Orphan Asylum at 
Powder Mills. Death made sad havoc among these children 
during the epidemic, and there appears to have been a good 
deal of mismanagement since. 

It is now, however, affiliated with the Reformatory at the 
' Asile ' in its vicinity, which is under the immediate direction 
of the Police department. 

The annual amount voted by the legislature for the payment 
of salaries, rents, grants to elementary schools, books, stationery, 
and other contingencies, is 16,596^. . 

Having been induced to pay a visit to one of the Government 
reformatories, I give a short account of it. I as a stranger was so 
interested in all I saw, that I think it would be well for many 
others, who seem to know nothing of it save its existence, to do 
all in their power to encourage an institution that must, if 
continued successfully, be of incalculable benefit to the future 
of the colony. 

It is carrying out the New World recognised fact that, for a 
country to prosper, its vagabond children must be cared for 
whilst mind and body are so plastic as to be capable of moulding 
to good uses, an almost impossibility with adults. If this is 
proved to be a necessity elsewhere, how much more so must it be 
in a place where there is such a mixtm'e of races as in Mauritius ! 

The Reformatory, known generally as the ' Asile,' is about 
six miles distant from Port Louis. In 1868, the happy idea 
was conceived by His Excellency the Grovernor of converting 
an old abandoned, broken-down sugar estate, taken over for 
debt by the Grovernment Savings' Bank, into what is eventually 
intended to be the model farm of the Island. To Major O'Brien, 



Ch. XXVI I.] REFORM A TOR V. 459 

the Inspector Greneral of Police, the carrying out of the scheme is 
due. When this gentleman first visited the place he found it in a 
most deplorable state—' roads almost impassable, covered with 
weeds and grass six feet high, buildings without exception 
uninhabitable, nearly all unroofed by the hurricane of 1868, 
swamps, and rank vegetation everywhere.' 

^ He saw before him a truly herculean task, but he set about it 
undaunted, for his heart was in this good work. None knew 
better than he, from his daily experience amongst all classes, of 
the dire need of such an institution, of the great importance of 
rescuing the hundreds of homeless boys, eking out a miserable 
existence by theft and worse crimes. Numbers of these boys 
were brought to the vagrants' depot, but being placed indis- 
criminately with older offenders, more harm than good was 
done by their detention. 

On June 26, 1868, Major O'Brien sent fifteen boys with a 
band of vagrants, under superintendence, to begin the contem- 
plated work. A temporary shelter was made by covering part 
of the house with tarpaulins, and by degrees most of the ruin- 
ous tenements were made habitable. When these were com- 
pleted, attention was turned to the grounds, and there a syste- 
matic clearance was carried on. 

Roads were cleaned and mended; the old basins, covered 
with fetid mud, were filled up, and fresh ones made, while flood- 
gates were built to allow the ingress and egress of water to them ; 
the bridge over the Citron River repaired, drains were dug to 
clear the unhealthy, swampy land, and walls reared. 

It was a little more than a year after its inauguration that I 
visited the Asile, and I was astonished to see so much accom- 
plished, and the order, cleanliness, and neatness that prevailed 
made it an example to many another place in Mauritius that 
might advantageously copy it in these respects. A fine metalled 
road had been made from the highway, leading to the main 
house, and as I drove up the whole place had a pleasant aspect. 
All the buildings were whitewashed, the grounds laid out in 
vegetable and flower gardens, and close to the house was a pretty 
little fernery. 

The principal rooms used for school and office purposes were 
surrounded with a grove of mango trees. Here I was shown 
the handiwork of the boys : tin plates, watering-cans, baskets, 



46o THE ASILE, [Ch. XXVII. 

and mats, and all very creditably done. It was with pleasure 
I witnessed the progress many of the boys had made, who did 
not know a letter when they entered the ' Asile.' English is 
the rule, the different vernaculars only being used when ex- 
planations require them. Some of the lads I examined could 
read English, and wrote it on their slates very fairly. Simple 
arithmetic they acquire with great facility, as most Indians 
do. 

There are children of Indian, Creole, Coringhy, African, and 
Bourbon parentage ; and the Superintendent told me they 
were most of them very tractable, and few attempt escape ex- 
cept new comers, who find the discipline irksome to their vaga- 
bond habits. 

Every kind of household and other occupations connected 
with the institution are taught first. Cooking, cleaning, wash- 
ing and mending clothes, ornamental and vegetable gardening, 
field work, carpentering, brick and basket making, masonry, 
tin and blacksmith's work, attending to horses and cattle, and 
driving the mule carts used on the place ; everything which 
can be useful to them, and help to make the institution self- 
supporting. There were 227 boys in the Asile there, and 
already 78 acres of land were in cultivation. 

Most of the roads were skirted with Filaos, Palmistes and 
other trees. All kinds of vegetables are grown, which are sent into 
the bazaar daily, where they have a stand set apart for them ; and 
experiments are being made (with an eye to future use) in 
growing coffee, tea, China grass, vanilla, poppies, and tobacco. 

Very firm and excellent rules have been issued for the 
government of the establishment, and the regulation of the 
various duties of the boys ; and a register is kept in which is 
noted every particular respecting their conduct from the time 
of their entry into the Asile. 

They are divided into squads of from ten to fifteen ; and the 
boys who, by being first in their classes, and at work, and meriting 
it by general good conduct, are appointed overseers, or sirdars, 
are answerable for the cleanliness and order of their respective 
squads. 

This responsibility seems to have a very beneficial effect, and 
inspires emulation in the boys to attain the post ; and a slight 
distinction of dress is also made, which is another attraction to 



Ch. XXVII.] TEACHINGS. 461 

them. Each boy is put to some trade, at which he works for a 
certain time ; should he then wish to change he can do so, but 
his decision must be final. Good workmen are chosen to teach 
the several trades. A capital ride is made about these work- 
men and the teachers — their increase of pay, &c., are made to 
depend upon the progress of the taught ; a rule that would be 
of infinite service if applied to schools and trades generally, here 
and elsewhere. 

During the last six months before the expiration of their 
time, a part of each boy's earnings is laid aside to form a fund 
for providing him with clothes, tools, and other necessaries 
when he makes a start in life. Seventeen is the prescribed age 
for leaving, but if a good offer for an apprentice is made, 
with the consent of the superintendent, they can leave much 
earlier. Should circumstances deprive them of a home before 
their apprenticeship is closed, they may return temporarily to 
the Asile. 

The simplest forms of prayer and religious instruction are 
given, irrespective of creeds, the bases of which are the Lord's 
Prayer and the Ten Commandments ; no catechism whatever is 
allowed to be taught, but access is given to all ministers of re- 
ligion when requested by parents. 

Their days, summer and winter, are pretty equally divided 
with work, school, drill and recreation. 

It was late when I paid my visit, and the boys were about to 
be marshalled to their evening meal, which in summer time is 
given them under the mango trees. They marched along like 
soldiers, and filed off to their respective places, facing inward at 
the word of command. All remained motionless till the order 
was given to sit down to their meal, which was done without 
confusion, and in perfect silence. When all had finished, they 
were marched off, and drawn up in front of the dormitories. 

Here the superintendent talked to them, and asked if any of 
them had any complaint to make ; but all expressed themselves 
satisfied, except one little fellow, who wanted to change his 
trade of stonemason for that of carpenter. The boys looked up 
at the Major as children would do to a kind friend. It was 
quite evident, though the rules are strictly carried out, and 
disobedience sharply punished, that this kind-hearted man has 
not forgotten that they are children he has to deal with, and 



462 



HOSPITAL. 



[Ch. XXVII. 



that gentleness and kindness will win their way even with the 
roughest and apparently most hopeless subject. 

Here they were drilled, and a smart little fellow put them 
through their manoeuvres in capital style. He entered heartily 
into the spirit of the thing, and I have no doubt was as proud 
of his post as a general at the head of his army. At last they 
were marched in line to where their hammocks hung, and at 
the word of command they opened them out, and slung them up 
as promptly as if trained on board a man-of-war. These ham- 
mocks have been used to replace the awkward prison bedsteads, 
as cleaner and healthier, and allowing of the room to be used 
in the daytime for other purposes. 




PISTACHE NUT. 



I was shown a temporary hospital, where a few boys lay sick 
of fever. The poor little fellows raised their heads as I entered 
to look at me, and get a kind word from the Major. Very few 
had touched the meal that lay on a stool beside them. Every- 
thing was clean and neat, and the boys looked as comfortable as 
possible when suffering from such a miserable disease. I was 
informed that they are about to build a permanent hospital. I 
saw the prison for the incorrigibles, one of whom was punished 
for theft in presence of the whole gang, as a warning to the 
rest. 

I left much pleased with my visit, and wished every success 
to so useful and benevolent an undertaking. 



ch. xxvil] museum, 463 



Tlie Natural History Society , Museum^ &g. 

In 1805 an association was formed, under the title of the 
' Societe d'Emulation,' to occupy itself with everything connected 
with science, agriculture, commerce, and navigation. 

This society was formed by a few intelligent men, and a 
number of members soon joined it, till its correspondence 
extended to India, Seychelles, Boiubon, the Cape, and France. 

Its principal objects were to aid navigation in the Indian 
seas, improve agriculture in Mauritius, and acquire a knowledge 
of the natives of Madagascar and Africa. Some important 
services had been rendered in all these branches, when the 
society began to languish. However, after the British conquest 
of the Island, Governor Farquhar raised its drooping wings, 
placed it under the protection of Government, and personally 
expressed his interest in its transactions. He was elected a 
member, and soon infused into it new life and spirit. 

In 1817, before bis departure for England, the rules were 
remodelled, and its name changed to the ' Society for the 
Encouragement of the Arts and Sciences.' When General Hall 
was Governor ad interiini^ it was naturally supposed he would 
have respected the wishes of the actual chief, only temporarily 
absent. But no ; he appears to have put a veto on everything 
that could conduce to the progress of the colony. He inaugur- 
ated his official acts by a proclamation annulling the disposi- 
tions made in favom' of the Society, and very soon little was 
known of it save its name. 

It was not until 1829, under the administration of Sir 
Charles Colville, that it revived, principally through the agency 
of the Curator of vacant estates. It received a new title, the 
' Natural History Society,' and was composed chiefly of young 
men, under the direction of Mr. Charles Telfair, Dr. Lial, and 
Mr. W. Bojer, Professor of Botany at the Eoyal College. 

The day of the re-opening was the auspicious one of the 22nd 
of August, the sixtieth anniversary of the birth of Baron George 
Cuvier. This distinguished man took great interest in the 
revivified society ; and in 1831 sent it a present of a fine marble 
bust of himself and a copy of his valuable works, which are still 
its most cherished treasiures. 



464 MUSEUM. [Ch. XXVII. 

Meetings were held once a month for scientific purposes, based 
on the rules of the ' Societe d'Histoire naturelle,' in Paris. This 
association comprises a president and vice-president, secretary 
and vice-secretary, treasurer, resident and corresponding members. 
Amongst the latter are names well known to fame in the 
scientific world. I cite a few at random : — Sir Alexander and 
Sir William Buckland, Sir A. Johnson, Eev. J. Adamson, Sir 
W. Hooker, Geoffroy St.-Hilaire, A. P. de Candolle, Le Comte 
Dejean, Sir J. Herschel, Von Martins, Adrien Jussieu, Professor 
J. Lindley, C. D. Schreiber, Dr. Stewart, Professor Agassiz, 
Madame Ida Pfeifier, &c. &c. A correspondence is also kept 
up with all the leading societies in India, Australia, the Cape, 
Europe, and America ; whilst the best names Mauritius can boast 
have been enrolled amongst its members. 

In 1835 a present of shells was sent it from Bom-bon ; and I 
find that the Custom House in those days played as unpleasant 
a part to the scientific world then as it does to ordinary indivi- 
duals in the present day. Weeks elapsed before the cases could 
be procured, and then there were grave doubts as to their being- 
intact. 

In 1842 the acting chief officer. Colonel Stavely, sanctioned 
an allowance for a curator with a grant of 240Z. a year. Another 
grant was also given from the public chest of 200^. per annum 
to meet expenses. This amount was to be employed for cost of 
printing the ' Eeports of the Transactions of the Society,' which 
are issued once a year and sent to all foreign correspondents ; for 
medals and prizes granted each year to the best pupils in agri- 
cultural chemistry at the Eoyal College ; also to the planters, 
small cultivators, artisans, manufacturers, and others at the 
annual exhibitions. 

Just previously to the above grants, the death of one of the 
most zealous of its members took place, that of M. Desjardins, 
who had filled the post of hon. secretary from 1829. His widow 
presented his valuable museum to the society on a guarantee 
being given her that it should be well cared for. The condition 
was willmgly accepted, and this donation formed the nucleus of 
the present museum. M. Adrien d'Epinay, dying about the 
same time, bequeathed his library to his late colleagues, and in 
consequence of these bequests the office of Curator mentioned 
above was instituted. 



ch. XXVI l] prizes. 465 

M. Bojer was appointed to fill this post, and apartments in 
one of the wings of the College were set apart, to which the 
museum and library were removed, and which have been their 
abode ever since. 

In 1847 the word 'Eoyal' was allowed to be added to the 
title, and thenceforth it has been known as the * Eoyal Society of 
Arts and Sciences in Mauritius.' 

About this time or a little earlier, an exhibition of sugars, 
vegetables, flowers, &c., took place, and the exhibitors were 
rewarded with medals and prizes in money. It was so favoura})ly 
received that one or more has taken place every year since, with 
the exception of 1867. In 1850, twenty medals were given for 
sugars and other produce ; and there was a competition for the 
best essay on the cultivation of the sugar-cane. The prize was 
divided between M. Grallet and M. x\utard, and honourable 
mention was made of several others. 

I find that in 1852 a prize of 50^. was awarded to Mr. 
Hounslow, of the engineer department, for ameliorating the 
dwellings of the poor, and presented to him by the then presi- 
dent, the Hon. E. W. Eawson. I have, however, yet to learn 
what good results have accrued to the town from this liberality. 

It appears that the society has been unremitting in its endea- 
vours for the encouragement of different articles of produce, both 
for export and home consumption, but from one circumstance 
or other all seem to have failed but the everlasting sugar-cane. 

In 1860 an intercolonial exhibition was held at Grovernment 
House. Sir William Stevenson threw open house and grounds 
to the public for three days. Seychelles, Eodrigues, and 
Bourbon sent their choicest productions ; and from all accounts 
it appears to have been the best thing of the kind ever held in 
the colony. 

In 1867, when the Grreat Exhibition took place in Paris, an 
effort was made to represent Mauritius there. Sugars were sent 
of very fine qualities, and colonial rum, tanned hides, tobacco 
and cigars, fibres, vanilla, arrowroot, specimens of indigenous 
woods fit for building and other purposes, and a variety of pro- 
duce. Drawings of Mauritius scenery and views of Bourbon 
were forwarded, with some of the elegant basket-work made 
from the leaves of the coco-de-mer, and shell-flowers, cleverly 
constructed from the various tinted tellinas, Venuses, and the 



466 MILLINER Y. [C H. XX\11 . 

opercula of different shells, the effect of which is charming 
when made with taste. 

As a whole I believe Mam"itius looked very insignificant at 
the ' World's Fair in Paris.' She comes out better at home. 

I have been present at two of these shows, and a curious 
sight they present. They are held in the upper half of the 
bazaar, which is closed to the public during the previous day, to 
undergo a thorough cleansing and adornment with greenery. 

Early in the morning of the day carts are crowding up, laden 
with flower plants or vegetables from the various districts, to be 
arranged in their allotted spaces. Moka is always strongest in 
flowers, from its peculiar damp climate, and from its possessing 
the only nursery garden in the colony. 

For some hours a babel rages inside and out of the building. 
I pitied the poor secretary, who has to settle all differences, 
write out tickets, find the best places for everybody, never to 
make a mistake ; and whether he does or not he is safe to be 
abused right and left, everyone shouting at him at once and 
few helping. 

One minute it is a heap of fresh butter which somebody dabs 
down on a basket of strawberries or violets, or a lady's cushion ; 
then a couple of pigs, or a pair of carriage wheels : very lucky 
if the porkers don't get the tickets of their neighbours, the 
Cochin fowls. Then a basket of monster patates, or a bouquet 
fit for a lady's dress, or large enough to fill a good-sized round 
table, and so on. Every one, of course, is in a hurry, and must 
have his or her ticket at once. However, by a good deal of tact 
and patience and unflagging zeal, matters are pretty amicably 
arranged by eleven o'clock, when the judges enter to award the 
prizes, which are marked in large letters on each article. It 
would be unfair to draw comparisons with exhibitions elsewhere, 
but for so small a place they are very creditable. 

Place aux dames! The ladies' work, millinery, artificial 
flowers, and other feminine fabrics, might pass muster anywhere. 
The fairy Creole fingers do not restrict their handiwork to 
fineries ; large pats of sweet fresh butter, most appetising pre- 
serves, and pickles attest their skill. 

A partition is covered with paintings and photographs ; the 
Ip.tter, besides portraits, showing some good views of Mauritian 
scenery. Vegetables are fine and well assorted ; tobacco and 



Ch. XXVII.] DRESS. 467 

colonial-made cigars very good ; liqueurs, Vanilla fruits, and 
many other things (as the advertisements say) far too numerous 
to mention. 

The flowers and bouquets of all shapes and sizes show well, 
and there is generally a fine display of ferns, principally those 
of Lady Barkly. 

Towards two o'clock His Excellency with his lady and suite 
arrive ; the band strikes up, and in pour the elite^ the demi- 
monde, any one fortunate enough to hold a ticket, but all 
orderly, and the lowest well and cleanly dressed. One half of 
the visitors at least goes to see the other half. I confess, as I 
sat quietly gazing on the varied scene, I was perfectly astounded 
at the extensiveness of the dress of the femininity. 

Every exaggeration, from the hideous chignon to the two-inch 
heels that throw the figure off the perpendicular and into the 
Grrecian Bend. Every combination of colour was there ; I need 
not define in which class. All, however, seemed gay and festive, 
and glad to chat, flirt, and air their finery. 

At four o'clock the prizes are given by the Governor ; the 
band plays ' Grod save the Queen,' the representative of royalty 
disappears, and, by half- past five, the scene has again changed 
to the confusion of tongues of the morning, as the various 
objects are carried away by their owTiers, till night closes in. 

The Natural History collections of the Society in their 
museum are fine and rare, but not extensive. Besides the 
Fauna of Mauritius, that of Madagascar, Southern Africa, and 
the neighbouring islands is well represented. The fish of the 
surrounding seas are in great numbers. The monsters of the 
deep show their hideous maws at every step The very stair- 
case is lined with gigantic heads of sharks, their triple tiers of 
teeth grinning horribly. It makes one's hair stand on end. 
when viewing these dry bones, to think that it is in the region 
where tliese insatiate animals abound that the Indian diver 
seeks the treasures of the ocean. 

It is quite a relief to turn to the cases of many-hued shells, 
for wliich Mauritius is famous. To this department all the 
Dependencies and the Far East have contributed. India and 
Africa send a large collection of reptiles, well preserved. Corals, 
of course, are not wanting ; and there is a small collection of 



468 PICTURES. [Ch. XXVI I. 

minerals, principally from Australia and South America, but 
not of great value. 

Eound the room are hung a few large pictures : one, a copy 
of Murillo's ' Holy Family,' was painted at Paris by M. Michel, 
and presented to the Society. Attached to the museum is the 
library, which now numbers over 2,000 volumes, many very 
costly, and some invaluable as books of reference. The whole is 
under the care of M. Louis Bouton. 

This gentleman has made a very large and rare collection of 
the indigenous plants of Mauritius. He sent a duplicate of 
them to the Paris Exhibition of 1867, and the originals have 
been removed to the Pamplemousses Gardens, and were placed 
under the care of the late Dr. Meller, whose loss the colony has 
so recently deplored. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

IMMIGBATION. 

A new Era for English Colonies — When and How the Abolition Act was brought 
in Force — Number of Slaves — Introduction of Coolies — Bad Management- 
Valuation of Slaves — Ex-Apprentices — Immigration renewed — Cholera — 
Agricultural Progress — Changed Condition of Malabars after residing here — 
Tickets and Photographs — Camps — Fever— Death-Rat e — Report of Mr. Beyts — 
Cost of Establishment and other Statistics — Arrears of Wages — Immigration 
Tables — Facts respecting various Castes of Indians. 

The year 1834 was the beginning of a new era for all the 
Colonies of Great Britain. From that date all traffic in human 
flesh virtually ceased for ever, where England held sway. 
Though the Act for the Abolition of Slavery was passed in this 
year, the laws respecting thereto were to remain in force till 
February 1st, 1835. From this period all slaves of six years 
old and upwards, duly registered, became apprentice labourers, 
and continued so till February 1st, 1841, as regarded field 
labourers, and until February 1839 for those non-attached. 
There were at this time in the colony 39,464 men and boys, 
and 25,856 women and girls, making a total of 65,320 slaves. 

From symptoms of disaffection amongst the soon-to-be 
liberated slaves, it was evident to the planters that no time was 
to be lost in procuring men to till the soil ; and the introduction 
of labourers from India was attempted. 

The Grovernment offered no obstacle to the project ; and, as 
no restrictions were laid as to the number to be brought in each 
vessel, by the year 1838, no less than 24,566 coolies had arrived 
from Calcutta.^ 

' These labourers engaged to work at field labour for a term of five years, at the 
rate of five rupees a month, with rations. 

A certain sum was to be retained of these wages, to pay for a return passage to 
India if desired at the expiration of their engagement. 

Kk 



470 FREE LABOUR. [Ch. XXVII I. 

The bad management in the shipment of these Indians led 
to serious complaints being laid before the Home Grovernment, 
as well as the Grovernment of India. In consequence of 
these and other remonstrances, immigration was suspended in 
1838. 

In February 1835, the Commission of Indemnity began the 
valuation of slaves, which was completed by the end of the year, 
resulting in the sum of 2,112,632^., which was paid by England 
to the planters of Mauritius, being at the rate of 69^. 14s. 2>d, 
per slave. 

When the ex-apprentices were freed in 1839, scenes of riot 
and disturbance took place all over the Island. 

The ex-slaves refused to work, alleging, for one reason, that 
they had been ill-treated by their former masters having sent 
to India for labourers ; but the truth was, they considered that 
their freedom would be incomplete without an entire abandon- 
ment of their former labours. 

Like all large bodies of men when all restraint is suddenly with- 
drawn, they launched into violent excesses. Every street in 
Port Louis swarmed with them, much to the annoyance of the 
more quietly disposed population. It was only positive hunger 
and want that compelled them at last to seek employment, but 
in so desultory a way that it was found no certainty could be 
placed on their work. 

In 1840, during the time Colonel Power was Acting Governor, 
a committee was formed, under the presidence of Captain Dick, 
Colonial Secretary, to organise some plan for the continuance of 
immigration. The ' Free Labour Association ' was the title of 
this new society, and its object was to facilitate in every way 
the introduction of labour into the colony. It was forbidden by 
the Grovernment to bring immigrants from the coast of Africa, 
so that from India alone could they look for working men. 

In 1842, Sir William Gromm obtained leave to introduce 
0,000 labourers annually. In 1849, a draft ordinance was 
passed, allowing only of engagements for a term of three years. 

The new system of immigration did not apparently answer all 
its requirements, for I find, in 1851, Mr. Higginson, the then 
Governor, endeavouring to obtain free labourers from the coast 
of Madagascar, to make good the deficiency in the labour 
market. 



ch. xxviil] coolies. 471 

In 1854, the cholera was brought to Mauritius by an immi- 
grant ship from Calcutta, where the terrible pest is indigenous 
to the soil, having its head-quarters in the Delta of the Granges. 

So dire were the effects of this disease on the colony, that in 
1857 it was proposed by the chief medical officer that coolies 
should only be brought from the presidencies of Madras and 
Bombay ; the natives from these districts being healthier than 
those from Calcutta. 

In Sir William Stevenson's time, liberty was granted to the 
planters to engage their labourers for a period of five years, 
which proved of great advantage to all concerned. 

The progress of agricultural industry has been rapid and 
regular, and the increase of the productions of the soil has been 
in the same proportion as the introduction of Indian labourers. 

The tables at the end of this chapter will show the exports of 
the main staple in the times of slave and free labom- of the 
colony. 

The coolies number two-thirds of the population, and, as far 
as I am able to judge, are as well cared for and protected by 
the Grovernment as any other class in Mauritius. I have visited 
many estates and found the labourers apparently contented and 
happy, and certainly better off than they ever were before. 

Look at the thin frail form of the Malabar when he arrives 
from India, and see him after some years' residence in the 
Island. His form assumes a roundness and his muscles a 
development, from exercise, wholesome and sufficient food, and 
being well cared for, which speak volumes in praise of the civi- 
lising influence he is unconsciously undergoing, and if its effects 
are not very evident in this generation they will be most un- 
mistakably in the next. 

Every coolie carries a small tin case attached to his waist, con- 
taining his certificates of arrival, age, personal description, with 
a photograph, engagement, &c. He never ventiures into the street 
without this, as he is liable to be stopped at any moment by the 
police ; and if his papers are not all correct, he is at once arrested 
till he can give a satisfactory account of himself. If a domestic 
servant gets leave to go into the country, he must have a pass 
from his master, specifying the number of days he has permission 
to be absent, and the place of his destination. The photograph 
system has been adopted to compel every Indian to show his 



472 STATISTICS, [Ch. XXVIII. 

own ticket. Formerly there was any amount of rascality carried 
on. If a man lost his own ticket, he would beg, borrow, or 
steal his friend's, or get one forged for a trifle, all of which 
tricks are useless now. The dated passports not only prevent 
vagabondage, but put a stop in a great measure to runaway ser- 
vants, who on the slightest provocation would formerly abscond. 

Every sugar estate has what is called a ' Camp ' attached to it, 
where the labourers reside. The houses are principally thatched, 
but many of them are built of stone on the larger plantations, 
and there is always a good supply of water for drinking and 
washing purposes. 

Near the ' Camp,' on a site chosen by a medical officer 
appointed for that purpose, a hospital is erected, and proper 
attendants duly qualified by certificates for waiting on the sick 
are appointed. 

The sanitary condition of both camps and hospitals is exa- 
mined into, and reported on yearly to Grovernment. 

During the epidemic the greatest care was bestowed on the 
labourers, and the deaths were less in proportion to the great 
numbers employed than in any other class. ^ 

The death-rates amongst the Indians durinp- the fever were 
as follow per 1,000: — 

Adults , . 37-4 

In total population of estates ...... 44*5 

At the same time, in the districts, it was forty-five per 1,000, 
and in Port Louis eighty ! which means decimation in fifteen 
months, and annihilation in twelve years. 

Many of the Indians are frugal, and manage to save enough 
to remit home to India, either for investment in land there, or 
for the support of aged relatives ; to invest in small stores here 
or to return to India. In 1869, there were 69,032^. standing 
to the credit of Indians in the Savings' Bank, and this sum is 
yearly steadily increasing as they begin to have confidence in the 
security of the bank. No less than 17,158^. were remitted last 
year on behalf of immigrants to Bombay, Madras, and Calcutta. 
This does not include large sums sent home through merchants, 
or taken in specie by the immigrants themselves. 

' Besides the hospitals on the estates, five public hospitals and thirty-two 
dispensaries have been established in various parts of the Island. 



Ch. XXVIII.] DHOBIES. 473 

A convincing proof of their appreciation of the benefits to be 
derived in the colony, is given in the numbers constantly coming 
back to the Island and setting up in some way of business, or 
returning as servants to their former masters. 

For the following account of the present state of the Indian 
immigrants, and the statistics respecting them, I draw my in- 
formation from the able reports of the Hon. Mr. Beyts, who is 
at the head of the Immigration Office, and whose long expe- 
rience makes him the best authority on the subject. This 
gentleman has for years rendered most valuable services to the 
colony in his department, and has also been up to India on an 
important mission for the Government to further the cause of 
immigration. 

From the great care bestowed of late years on the immigrant 
ships to Mauritius, the ratio of deaths is small compared with 
that in vessels conveying Indian immigrants to other colonies. 

The costs of the establishment connected with immigration 
for 1869 were 7,882L 8s. lOc^. 

The Indian population amounted at this time to 206,771. 

With the coolies usually arrive a number of free passengers, 
many of them old hands, who return, paying their passage and 
bringing friends with them, especially Dhobies, induced by their 
representations to visit Mauritius in quest of fortune. Six 
immigrant ships arrived in the course of the year, four from 
Madras, and two from Calcutta, bringing a total of 1,682 
souls. 

The departures, as compared with other years, show a great 
decrease (though they exceeded the arrivals), viz. 2,320 left. 
The following table will show the difference in these years. 

Departures in 1866 2,815 

1867 3,398 

„ 1868 2,5'44 

1869 2,320 

The precise number of Indian Creoles now in the colony 
cannot be accurately ascertained, but an idea may be derived 
of the pace at which they are increasing by the fact that the 
births in the Indian population during the last ten years give 
an average of more than 6,000 per annum. 

There are 223 sugar estates in the Island, the total Indian 



474 



VAGRANTS. 



[Ch. XXVIII. 



population of which has been represented by the stipendiary 
magistrates to be as follows : — 

M. F. Total. 

Adults 71,906 25,710 97,616 

Children under ten . . 12,773 12,060 24,833 

84,679 37,770 122,449 

The vagrants were formerly a serious grievance, but laws for 
the suppression of vagrancy have now been for some time in 
force, and appear to be working satisfactorily. The complaints 




CREOLE SITTlNli. 



of masters against servants, and vice versa, have increased of late 
years. Those of the former were principally for unlawful absence 
and desertion ; those of the latter for arrears of wages. 

The great irregularity of the payment of wages has been 
due to the severe financial crisis the colony has been passing 
through. Such heavy arrears were due on some estates that it 
necessitated the intervention of the Procureur-General and the 
Protector of immigrants (Mr. Beyts). A more satisfactory 
state of things is, however, now prevalent, and by the latest 
reports scarcely any estate is now more than three months in 
arrear. 



Ch. XXVIIL] 



HOME-SICKNESS. 



475 



Another change for the better I see is going on. Formerly, 
few if any women could be got to work on estates, but dm'ing 
the last year 993 were engaged in agricultural work. 

On thirty plantations schools are established that give instruc- 
tion to 1,092 pupils, nine-tenths of whom are boys. As the 
Indians when they choose to learn are a quick-witted race, this 
must tell well on the next generation. 

It appears that the principal part of the arrivals during 1869 
were from Madras and Calcutta. Owing to the establishment 




INDIAN WOMAN. 



of large cotton and other factories, the demand for labour has 
been so great that emigration thence has for the time ceased. 

It seems that Indians get home-sickness as well as the rest of 
the world. Large numbers present themselves daily to be inva- 
lided and sent back to India. So determined are they when 
once they have this idea, that if they are refused they will work 
it out even if it cost their life. The Inspector says : ' An 
Indian, if bent on return to India, though possibly, nay probably, 
only for a visit, will starve, vagabondise till he is arrested as a 
vagrant, and then tamper with his eyes, irritating them with 
lime and other substances, till he frequently loses his sight ; or 
will irritate any little scratch till it becomes an ulcer of so ma- 
lignant a form as to end in amputation, or death. Should he 



4/6 



CASTES. 



[Ch. XXVIII. 



survive lie returns to the depot a most pitiable object, and with 
ju^reat need of invaliding. 




INDIAN BIAN. 




INDIAN WOMAN. 



The accompanying account of some of the principal of the 
ruimerous castes into which Indians are divided was sent me by 



Ch. XXVI 1 1.] INDIANS. 477 

an intelligent Indian merchant, and may interest those far away 
from India and its strange people. 

The following tables will give an idea of the classes of men 
employed b}^ contract, and the average amount of wages paid 
at different ages for field-labourers, artisans, domestic servants, 
and others, with their general rations. 

Inf ordination on Indians, communicated by an Indian. 

The four grand divisions of the people of India into castes 
are, the Brahmins, the Cshatryas, the Vaisyas, and the Sudras. 
Let us first consider what caste is ? It is an institution by 
which extraordinary distinctions are sanctioned, and at the same 
time reconciled so as to preserve from disorganisation a com- 
munity in which certain interests and occupations are kept in 
immutable subordination. It effected a separation among cer- 
tain orders of society, as if they had been of different species. 
Its power was at one time immense, but it is daily on the de- 
crease. Caste as existing at present is not caste as it existed 
in the olden days. It has been stripped of the countless re- 
strictions, numberless severities, and religious bigotry, which 
foully stained it in days of old. Caste, as it exists at present, is 
no more than a division of people into the higher and lower 
classes. Castes are distinguished simply by the different forms 
of worship, the different prayers uttered mornings and even- 
ings. If Sanscrit were made the vehicle by which the prayers 
of the Brahmin are to be conveyed to heaven, Tamil and Telugu 
are for the rest. But what element of discord and disunion 
can be found in these external differences, these differences in 
ceremonies and formalities ? Have these differences conferred on 
the Brahmin any weapon of torture or oppression, under which 
his fellow countrymen groan, and must fall in with him? 
Nothing of the kind, and I do not see why, notwithstanding 
the external differences mentioned, men of all castes cannot 
agree in political, educational, or any other measures that effect 
them all alike ; and why children of different castes cannot com- 
mingle their concerns and interests, blending in a common 
cause. Such considerations alone have led the educated Hindoos 
in India to form themselves into associations, such as the 
Bramho Somaj of India, the Veda Somaj of Madras, and the 
Prathana Somaj of Bombay, with their branches in the interior. 



478 



CLASSES EMPLOYED IN i 



[Ch. XXVIII. 



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Ch. XXVIII.l AVERAGE RATE OF WAGESy ETC. 



479 



Statement showing the present ayeeage Rate of Wages and 
Allowances of Agricultural Labourers, Tradesmen, Artisans 
AND Domestic Servants. 



First : Ordinary Agricultural Labourer's. 



New Immigrants 



Ase 



Wages per 
Month 



Rations 



lbs. 



From ten to eleven years inclusive. 
,, twelve to fourteen ,, 

,, fifteen to seventeen „ 
,, eighteen years and upwards 



rice per diem 
or maize pounded 
or manioc (cooked) 
or ,, raw 
DhoU per mensem, 
salt fish ,, 

ghee, or oil „ 
salt 



Old Immigrants 



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Rations 



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From ten to eleven years inclusive 
„ twelve to fourteen ,, 

,, fifteen to seventeen ,, 

,, eighteen years and upwards 



shd 


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4 


10 


7 


6 


12 


9 


8 


14 


11 


12 


18 


}5 



rice per diem 
or maize pounded 
or manioc (cooked) 
or „ raw 
Dholl per mensem 
salt fish ,, 
ghee, or oil „ 
salt 



remarks. — Very few receive maize or manioc instead of rice. 



48o 



AVERAGE RATE OF WAGES, ETC. [Ch. XXVIII. 



Secondly : Tradesmen, Artisans, Domestic Servants. 













"Wages per Month 

! 
1 




Old Immigrants ; 


Minimum 


Maximum 


Average 1 




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£ s. d. 


£ s. d. 


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2 






4 
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14 


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1 10 


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2 


1 5 6 


Coopers 
Tinsmiths 










1 
1 


10 c 
10 c 




3 
3 


2 5 

2 5 


Farriers 













15 ( 




1 12 


1 3 6 


Harness makers 













11 c 




1 16 


1 3 6 


Painters or Gliziers 










1 


c 




3 


2 


Masons 













14 C 




3 


1 17 


Stone cutters . 










1 


C 




1 6 


1 3 


Sawyers 










1 


3 t 




1 14 


1 8 6 


Timber squarers 










1 


C 




2 


1 10 


Tobacconists . 













10 C 




1 


15 


Grardeners 













4 C 




1 8 


16 


Cooks 













15 C 




2 


1 7 6 


Table servants 













2 C 




1 


1 1 


Coachmen 













15 f 




2 


1 7 6 


Grooms . 













9 C 




1 7 


18 


Tailors . 










] 


2 C 




1 14 


1 8 


Washermen . 













12 I 




2 


1 6 


Sugar makers . 













17 C 




4 


2 8 6 


Mill drivers . 










1 


C 




4 18 


2 19 


Sailors . 













14 G 




] 8 


16 


Jewellers 








• 





9 C 




2 


1 4 6 




Minimum 


Maximum 


Average 

1 




J2 


b4 

o 


ir. 


03 

o 




O 

1 


Kice per mensem .... 


30 


5) 


104 




67 


jj 


Dholl „ 


2 


)J 


8 




5 


,, 


Salt fish 


2 


,, 


8 




5 


?5 


Ghee, or oil „ . 


1 


)) 


2 




1 


8 


Salt „ 


1 


»» 


2 


) 


1 


& 



For the last two years, no requisitions have been received for Artisans or 
Domestic Servants, 



Ch. XXVIII.] THE VEDA. 481 

The object of these Somajens is, ' the establishment of universal 
brotherhood irrespective of all prejudices, national and sectarian, 
and the obtainment of religious freedom by bringing back 
Hindoos from idolatry to a true faith.' The rules of the Veda 
Somaj are as follows : — 

' I shall worship through love of Him and the performance of 
the work He loveth — the Supreme Being, the Creator, the 
Preserver, the Destroyer, the Griver of Salvation, the Omniscient, 
the Omnipotent, the Blissful, the (rood, the Formless, the One 
only without a second, and none of the created objects, subject 
to the following conditions: I shall labour to compose and 
gradually bring into practice a ritual agreeable to the spirit of 
pure Theism, and free from the superstitions and absurdities 
which at present characterise Hindoo ceremonies. In the mean- 
time I shall observe the ceremonies now in force, but only in 
cases where ceremonies are indispensable, as in marriages and 
funerals, or where their omission will do more violence to the 
feelings of the Hindoo community, than is consistent with the 
proper interests of the Veda Somaj as in Sastras. And I shall 
go through such ceremonies, where they are not conformable to 
pure Theism, as mere matters of routine, destitute of all religious 
significance, as the lifeless remains of a superstition which has 
passed away.' 

To attempt to furnish a detailed and correct account of the 
different races of the Indian population is no easy task. Deep 
research and careful inquiry are necessary to render any satisfac- 
tory information on the points requiring elucidation. But, so 
far as Southern India or the presidency of Madras is concerned, 
I may assert that representatives of all castes and races are to 
be found in the colony, namely, from the divine Brahmin to the 
degraded Pariah. It must be remarked here, that, with rare 
exceptions, the ignorant and the worst characters alone come 
out to this place. These men, either from their intercom'se with 
foreigners or from the freedom they enjoy here in the use of 
brandy, and other alcoholic spirits (the use of which is strictly 
prohibited among the higher classes of people in India, and the 
eating and drinking particular kinds of food are the chief among 
deadly sins which subject the perpetrator to the loss of caste), 
have thrown aside their original habits of cleanliness, and have 
adopted theoretically European habits in respect to dressing 



482 CONVERTS. [Ch. XXVIII. 

and eating-, but no improvement is perceptible in their intel- 
lectual and moral character. 

A few Hindoos have embraced Christianity, more from curiosity 
and associations than from any actual appreciation of its high 
principles of morality and religious obligations. Others who 
have saved a fortune either by semi-starvation, or by strict 
economical use of their gains, and who still persist in the pre- 
servation and practice of their old superstitious habits and 
customs, notwithstanding their long residence in the colony, 
take a pride in bringing up their children after Creole fashion, 
by giving a smattering of education in French and English : 
and when such children attain to their age, they are inclined, 
against the will and consent of their parents, to marry a Creole 
young man or Creole young woman, as the case may be ; while 
their parents wish them to marry their own kinsmen and kins- 
women, either in the colony or expected from India. These 
boys and girls desire Creole connections simply because they 
associate with that class of people from their infant days, and 
whose language they have adopted, neglecting altogether a know- 
ledge of their own mother tongue, which is neither imparted in 
government schools nor by their own parents, most of whom 
are themselves ignorant and perhaps not even able to sign their 
names. Hence convivial mingling and inter-marriages (which 
are prohibited in India, and the introduction of which is thought 
by the educated Indian public of the day as a stepping-stone 
for the removal of that ' monster evil ' caste) are in daily prac- 
tice here without any appreciation of its advantages, inasmuch 
as the parties in general are of no intelligence, position, and 
influence in Indian society. Inter-marriages have tended to 
produce bad results ; in fact, the morality of the Indian com- 
munity, including men and women, is not worthy of imitation. 
A respectable Hindoo lady would no doubt be ashamed to reside 
in the colony, and a residence for some time would taint her 
morals and reputation, such is the vicious company she will 
have to keep. In a word, the Indians in Mauritius, though 
they have partially overcome caste prejudices, as above men- 
tioned, yet have little concern for their intellectual, moral, 
and social improvement ; nor do they care about the public 
rights and privileges, which as citizens they can enjoy under 
British Grovernment. They have lost almost all the noble 



Ch. XXVIII.] HEATHEN SCHOOLS. 483 

qualities, such as bravery, patriotism, love of liberty, true ambi- 
tion, and self-respect. Their chief aim is to make money, 
either by honest or foul means, without any sense of self-resjpect. 

There are a few heathen schools here and there, and the 
education given in them is of a secular character, consisting of 
Tamil and English. The standard is very low, and in fact the 
teachers themselves are not able to impart more than an ele- 
mentary education, and that too in an imperfect manner. They 
are therefore next to nothing. Hence it is necessary that the 
Grovernment should direct their attention towards improving 
the Indian character by opening fresh schools to impart Ver- 
nacular and English education of a more useful kind than they 
are imparting at present. With these remarks, I shall briefly 
describe the caste, religion, and habits of the population of 
Southern India, who are also to be found in the colony. 

Of Brahmins and Cshatryas little need be said, as it is a 
notorious fact, that the duty of the former is to perform 
Sacerdotal functions, and that they subsist on alms. Sacred 
books relate the miraculous powers exerted by them in drying 
up the sea, vomiting fire on their enemies, &c., and as such 
they once enjoyed, and in some places do still enjoy, a rank 
almost equal to divinity. The Cshatryas, or the military class 
during the era of Hindoo independence, were not only great 
warriors, but even kings were chosen from this body. They 
are now in a state of depression. Very few of these two caste- 
men are to be found in the colony. 

Vaisyas, or traders dealing in different commodities, are 
divided into several sub-divisions according to the natiu-e of their 
business. By tradition we hear that the Brahmins, Cshatryas 
and Vaisyas are strict vegetarians, but the Vaisyas now eat 
animal food. These are generally known by the name of Chetty 
or Chettiar ; such as Caniety Chetty, Bari Chetty, and Telugu 
Chetty. Oil-mongers who profess to belong to the Vaisya caste 
are to be found here in immense numbers, most of them carry- 
ing on trade. 

Sudras. — The original occupation of this caste is agricul- 
tural labour, yet certain people, forming sub-divisions, exercise 
various trades and handicrafts. Grreat exclusiveness prevails 
among these classes. They will not even eat their meals in the 



484 CLANS OR CLASSES. [Ch. XXVIII. 

presence of each other. Their employments are transmitted by 
hereditary descent from father to son. 

The Vellalers, whose language is Tamil, are of different 
grades. Their occupations are chiefly the cultivation of the 
earth, and trade. They worship Seva. Most of them are 
vegetarians. The vegetarians or Sival never keep their mus- 
taches. The Vellalers are known by the appellation of Moodel- 
liar or Pillay. Some of them are rich landed proprietors, and 
are of a charitable disposition. 

Naicks and Reddies. — Their language is Telugu. Occupation, 
cultivators. They worship Vishnu. There seems but little 
difference between Naicks and Eeddies. They are tall, muscular, 
and well made, and are the finest class of men ; they make 
excellent soldiers. They use all animal food, saving the cow. 
The males, like the Vellalers, wear a pigtail or ' Kudumay,' and 
on the death of parents shave this as well as mustaches, in 
token of mourning. A singular custom exists among the 
Reddies as regards marriage. A young woman of fifteen or twenty 
years of age may be married to a boy of five or six years. She, 
however, lives with some other adult male, perhaps a maternal 
uncle or cousin, but is not allowed to form a connection with 
the father's relatives ; occasionally it may be the boy husband's 
father himself, that is, the woman's father-in-law ! Should 
there be children from these liasons, they are fathered on the 
boy husband. 

When the boy grows up, the wife is either old or past child- 
bearing, when he in his turn takes up with some ' boy's ' wife 
in a manner precisely similar to his own, and procreates children 
for the boy husband. 

The Yerhalas or Koravers. — A wild tribe of India : they eat 
flesh meats of all kinds, in which they are by no means nice. The 
jungle herbs, roots, and fruits also furnish them with food. The 
majority of them pretend to fortune-telling, to which men and 
women are addicted. They also take to basket, mat, and wooden 
comb-making ; for the former two they use the mid ribs and 
leaves of the date palm, and occasionally work as coolies. Some- 
times wealthy men of the tribe settle down in places, and engage 
in cultivation. There appear to be many sub-divisions among 
them, which consist in the variety of their occupations ; most of 
them confine themselves to particular ones, such as firewood sellers, 



Ch. XXV 1 1 1.] TRIBES. 485 

salt sellers, basket makers, and coolies, &c. There is nothing 
remarkable in their physical structure ; they are usually dark- 
coloured. Their bodies are usually filthy, and as a rule they 
wear nothing except a small piece of cloth. As a race they 
are low in the scale of civilisation ; and while they pretend to a 
show of industry during the day, there is no doubt, from the 
large proportion they form as inmates of jails, that their habits 
at nights are decidedly of a predatory natm'e. They form 
bands of dacoits and thieves, and prefer living by theft to 
honest industry. 

They are said to be the most troublesome of any of the 
wanderers. A similar tribe under the name of Oopoo Floraver 
is found in South Arcot. 

Their language seems to be a medley of Tamil and Telugu. 
They have rude ideas of religion, and will worship any Hindoo 
deity ; their old men are the priests of their community. Most 
of them have some household god, which they carry about with 
them in their constant travels. Polygamy prevails amongst 
them, and the number of wives is according to the means of the 
husband : the marriage string is tied round the neck of the 
wife. 

Marriages are only contracted between adults. The ceremony 
is usually conducted on a Sunday, preceded by a poojah on the 
Saturday. Eice mixed with tumeric is bound on the heads of 
the married couple, and when the marriage string is tied the 
ceremony is complete. Marriages within certain degrees of 
relationship are not allowed, and widow re-marriages are not 
permitted ; they may occasionally live in concubinage. A cus- 
tom prevails among them by which the first two daughters of a 
family may be claimed by the maternal uncle as wives for his 
sons. 

The value of a wife is fixed at twenty pagodas. The maternal 
imcle's right to the two first daughters is valued at eight out 
of twenty pagodas, and is carried out thus. If he urges his 
claim, and marries his own sons to his nieces, he pays for each 
only twelve pagodas, and similarly, if he, from not having sons, 
or any other cause, forego his claim, he receives eight pagodas 
of the twenty paid to the girl's parents by any one else who 
may marry them. There is a kind of clanship among these 
people. Each gang comprises many distinct families, eacli 

Ll 



486 



TRIBES. 



[Ch. XXVIII. 



having their own family names ; and, like the Hindoos, they 
form undivided families. 

Wodders. — These are tank diggers, and are common through- 
out the country. They engage in the carrying trade, but more 
frequently move about from place to place in search of work. 
Besides Telugu, they have a peculiar dialect among themselves. 
They have nothing peculiar about their rites and ceremonies. 
Widow re -marriage is permitted. Occupation, labourers. There 
are some fine, well-made men among the tribe. 

Luhhays are to be found in large numbers, chiefly between 
Pidicat on the north, and Negapatam on the south ; their head- 
quarters being near Nagore, near Negapatam, the burial-place 




INDIAN WOMAN AXD CHIU). 



of their patron saint, Nagore Meera Saib, to whose shrine 
numerous pilgrimages are made by the tribe. They are be- 
lieved to be the descendants of Mohammedans and Hindoos, and 
are supposed to have come into existence during the Mohamme- 
dan conquest, when numbers of Hindoos were forcibly converted 
to the Mohammedan faith. They are followers of Mahomet, and 
practise circumcision. Physically they are a good-looking race, 
tallish, of light complexion, and well-developed limbs. They are 
generally attired in Loongees (cloths loosely fastened round the 



Ck. XXVI II.] TRIBES. 487 

waist, and extending below the knees) ; they also wear bright- 
coloured jackets, occasionally turbans ; the most frequent 
head-gear being a skull cap fitting closely to a shaved head. 

Like Mussulmans they live freely on animals and vegetables, 
making use of all kinds of flesh meats, saving pork, for which 
they have a religious abhorrence. Their language is Tamil, 
though some talk a little Hindoostanee. They are exceedingly 
industrious and enterprising in their habits and pursuits, there 
being hardly a trade or calling in which they do not try to 
succeed. They make persevering fishermen and good boatmen. 
They are lapidaries, weavers, dyers, mat makers, jewellers, 
gardeners, bazaarmen, grocers, boat-makers and owners, and 
merchants. As regards the leather and horn trade, they excel 
as merchants ; in short, there are few classes of natives in 
Southern India who in energy, industry, and perseverance can 
compete with the Lubbays. 

Maravers. — These are believed to be descendants of lineal 
representatives of the Pandean dynasty. 

The Maravers are a robust, hardy race. They are believed to 
be, by birth and profession, thieves and robbers, and have been 
from time immemorial employed as village watchmen, for which 
service they are paid in kind by the villagers for the protec- 
tion of their property. They are true to their trust in their 
own village, but at night form large gangs, with a view of 
pillaging villages in remote places. If thwarted in their designs 
on these occasions, they become reckless, and frequently commit 
murder. To avoid being taken, they divest themselves of 
clothing, and oil their skins freely. They are prone to 
Hindooism ; they make use of all flesh meats, except beef. 
They seldom cover their heads : the few that do so simply tie a 
long coloured handkerchief about the head. In their marriages 
difference of age, or the absence of the bridegroom, is of no conse- 
quence. The ceremony is contracted by the friends and relatives 
of either party, without the consent of the individual himself, 
and a block of wood is employed as proxy for the absent groom ; 
and who, should he be absent from the village, knows nothing 
of the rite until his return, when he finds a wife to receive him. 
The rules of the tribe enforce the acceptance of the wife selected 
for him without his knowledge and consent. But these mar- 
riages are as readily dissolved as they are contracted ; all that 



488 TRIBES, [Ch. XXVIII. 

is necessary being for the dissentient party to cut the mar- 
riage string or thalee, and all is over. The man is bound to 
support his children. Their religion is a species of demonology 
and the worship of evil spirits, to whom bloody sacrifices are 
offered occasionally. There are devil dances, and these are intro- 
duced especially dm'ing the prevalence of cholera and small-pox, 
when the whole village is thrown into a state of excitement. 

Shanars, — These are believed to be emigrants from Ceylon, 
from whence they migrated, and found their way into Madura 
and Tinnevelly, bringing with them the Palmyra palm seeds; and, 
having obtained the sandy wastes of these district coasts, they 
began cultivation. Their language is Tamil ; and a very large 
proportion, more than one half, are either Protestant or Roman 
Catholic Christians, whilst their heathen fellows practise demon- 
ology, with its attendant bloody offerings and devil dances ; 
when one or more become possessed with the devil, and get 
quite excited with their gestiu-es, and are consulted by the 
people as to their fortimes. At present their chief occupation 
consists in attending to and collecting the juice of the palms. 
They are very timid and superstitious people. 

Sembadaver. — These people live along the sea-coast, and 
follow the occupation of fishing. They own a nmnber of boats, 
and proceed several miles out to sea before daylight ; they return 
again about noon ; they use nets, hooks, and lines. They are 
nominally Roman Catholics in creed. They certainly observe 
the Sabbath. As a race, they are addicted to drink, and are 
dissolute in their habits. 

Suckilier or Chucklers, — These are considered low in the 
social scale, and form a sub-division of the Pariahs. They eat 
all kinds of animal food, and are particularly partial to horse- 
flesh, and will carry away and devour all diseased carcases of 
horses. In some places they, like the Pariahs, claim as their 
peculiar perquisite all cows, buffaloes, horses, and tattoos that 
have died of disease in their vicinity, over which they quarrel, 
the quarrel sometimes ending in murder. As a class, they are a 
dissolute, disorderly body, given to intoxication, and carry out 
the functions of hangmen in all stations where individuals are 
legally executed. 

Kuller. — These people profess themselves to be of superior 
caste than Maravers, though their habits, manners, religion, 



Ch. XXVIII.] TRIBES. ' 489 

and occupation are identical with those of Maravers. Of these 
there are a few in the southern districts of the Madras presidency 
possessed of extensive landed property. 

Yanadies, Lumhadies, and Dombras or Jugglers, are of the 
same class as Yerkalies or Koravers, viz. wild tribes, but they 
only differ from each other as regards occupation. 

Shader, Shanier, and Kykalaveer. — These people, though 
divided into different classes, still all of them are weavers by 
occupation, and inclined to Hindooism. Their language is 
Tamil and Telugu. 

Pattoonoalkarer. — These are silk manufacturers. There is 
nothing peculiar in their habits and manners. They are Hindoos, 
and they have a dialect of their own. 

Cunnadier. — There are divisions and sub-divisions among 
this class of people, following several trades and callings. Some 
of them are priests, performing certain rites and ceremonies 
on funeral occasions among lower castes of Sudras ; whereas 
such ceremonies among higher class Sudras are performed by 
the Brahmins. And a few live solely by selling curd, which 
they carry on their heads in large earthen pots to towns and 
places of public gathering for sale. Their language is Kanna- 
dum, a language in which all the revenue accounts were kept 
in the Madras Presidency, and which formed a branch of study 
in the Presidency College ; but it has lately been discontinued, 
since the system of keeping the official accounts in that lan- 
guage was abolished. 

Padyachy, Gownden, and Pully. — These are a sub-division 
of the Sudra caste. Their occupation is tillage. They are held 
to be somewhat low in the social scale. Those residing in towns 
take the title of Moodelliars and Naicks so as to conceal their 
real caste, as also to avoid the degradation they would other- 
wise be subjected to. 

Janapper. — Another sub-division of the Sudra caste. They 
are generally ignorant, and deal in crockery, gunny bags, and 
tarpaulin. Some of them are hawkers, and others work as 
coolies. These are also held low in the social scale. They live 
on all animal food, saving the cow, but they are partial to ban- 
dicout flesh. 

Nathaman. — These are a class of Roman Catholic Christians 
converted from Hindooism, who still retain certain habits and 



490 • TRIBES. [Ch. XXVIII. 

customs peculiar to the Hindoos. Their language is Tamil and 
Telugu. 

Fuller and Pariah. — These are by birth a degraded class, 
but of no caste. They are employed in the meanest offices, such 
as scavengers, and the rudest description of country labour. 
They usually dwell without the walJs of the cities and villages, 
which present a disgusting sight. The touch, or even the close 
approach, of them is considered as a pollution by caste men. 
In Malabar a Nayror noble is legally authorised to kill a Pariali 
approaching his august presence. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

8UGAB AND THE SU GAB-CANE. 

Its History— Mode of Culture — Parasites that attack it — Its Manufacture- 
Amount exported and monetary Value — Dr. Icery's Process. 

As Mauritius produces about one-ninth of the sugar grown in 
the whole world, it deserves a special mention ; and perhaps a 
slight sketch of its early history may not be without interest. 

The best authorities of ancient and modern times lead to the 
conclusion that China was the first to cultivate the cane and 
manufacture sugar, and that its use was known there two thou- 
sand years before its adoption by Europeans. 

Slowly the culture of the cane made its way to India, Arabia, 
and Egypt. The Phoenicians are supposed to have taken it to 
Grreece, and the early Greek writers mention it as ' Indian 
salt.' 

Its progress amongst civilised nations was very slow, on 
account of the jealousy of Indian cultivators, who feared the 
secret of its culture and manufacture spreading to the West ; 
also from the merchant vessels, in the early ages of navigation, 
being of such small dimensions, that sugar was too bulky an 
article for freight — the trader naturally seeking for the least 
weighty, and most profitable, articles of commerce. 

It would be too long to trace its gradual introduction into 
different countries ; suffice it to say, that in the thirteenth cen- 
tury it was planted in Sicily, and the king, William II., gave 
the monks of St. Bennet a mill for grinding the canes ; but the 
sugar made was greatly inferior to that of the East. 

In 1420, Dom Henry, Regent of Portugal, introduced it into 
the Madeiras and Canaries, with great success. After the dis- 
covery of America, it spread with such surprising rapidity, that 
in 1518 the proceeds of the port duties on sugar imported 



492 SUGAR. [Ch. XXIX. 

from Hispaniola were so enormous, that the magnificent palaces 
of Madrid and Toledo were erected from them. In 1520, St. 
Thomas had sixty sugar manufactories, and made 4,650,000 lbs. 
annually.^ 

In 1644, the English began to increase the manufactories 
in their possessions, and refining sugar was well known and 
practised at that period. It was, however, rarely used in Eng- 
land then, except for medicines, or as an article of extreme 
luxury, first, on account of its dearness, and, secondly, from a 
prejudice against it, as possessing unwholesome properties if 
taken in any but the smallest quantities.^ 

In the early part of the eigliteenth century, the sugar-cane 
was introduced by Mahe de Labourdonnais into the Isle of 
France. It was with difficulty he could succeed in inducing the 
inhabitants to attend to its cultiue. Cloves, indigo, coffee, cotton, 
and different cereals so occupied the planters, that it was long 
before sugar took its place as an article of supreme importance 
for exportation. When once it had gained the palm, everything 
else gradually succumbed to it, and for years it has reigned 
paramount in Mauritius, not one of the above-named articles 
being now grown for commerce. The soil of this Island has 
proved remarkably propitious tc the culture of the canes. 
Vast sums have been expended in procuring the best machines 
that Europe could produce, and the most skilful English and 
French engineers. Labour at great cost has been brought from 
India ; no expense has been spared ; and this little colony, in 
the year 1863, produced 122,432 tons of sugar of very superior 
quality, perhaps equal to any in the world, and commanded the 
best prices. 

But, since that period, a general decadence has taken place, 
from a combination of unfortunate circumstances, such as 
droughts, fever, cyclones, and others, over which the planter 
had no control ; and again, from those that result from over- 
taxing the energies of the land, faulty manuring, and other 
causes, within his own power to remedy, and to which planters 
generally are growing very wide awake. 

^ I am partially indebted for the above information to some stray leaves given 
to me of a large book on the sugar-cane. I know not the author, but should he 
be amongst my readers, and able to claim some of the remarks as his own, I beg 
him to accept my best thanks for them. 

' This Island is no longer a sugar-producing one. .» 



Ch. XXIX.] SUGAR. 493 

The yield since the above-mentioned period has been gra- 
dually less, till in 1868 it fell to 70,000 tons. 

The cyclone of March 1868 put the climax to the distress 
long felt on every plantation ; the violence of the wind pros- 
trated and otherwise damaged the canes to a great extent. 
They were in a weakly state, and the roots not strong enough 
to give to the wind ; and I found, on a careful examination of 
some of the injured plants, that the spongioles of the radicles 
were greatly hurt. 

They were, however, apparently resuscitated by the con- 
tinuous rains that fell soon after, and they appeared restored t<» 
more than ordinary vigour and luxuriant vegetation. The 
planters all looked forward to heavy crops, to make up their 
defici-encies, and the damage done to their mills and other 
buildings by the cyclone. When the time of the coupe (as the 
crop season is called here) arrived, dire was the disappointment. 
Abundance of juice was given, but it contained less than 
ordinary of saccharine matter.' I can well imagine the anxiety 
with which all looked to the results of the coupe. Many a once- 
wealthy planter, as he watched the work go on day by day, 
must have felt his last hope die out of saving the property on 
which he had bestowed so many years of labour and expense. 
Already heavily burthened with debt, accumulating at com- 
pound interest, nothing was left but bankruptcy. During the 
last three years, many of the finest and oldest estates have passed 
away from their original proprietors, and been brought to the 
hammer, and, I fear, many more will be before this crisis be past. 

The simple plant that is the cause of so much anxiety to thou- 
sands of growers, buyers, and sellers ; that has slain its hecatombs 
of victims, before the abolition of the slave trade ; that, from its 
valuable qualities, has become an item of the highest impor- 
tance in the commerce of all nations ; for which the brains of 
men of the highest intellectual order have been racked to pre- 
pare the costliest machines for extracting its luscious juice— this 

' One writer on the sugar-cane says, ' The soil most favourable to the sugar- 
cane is a rich and moist, but not a wet one. An excess of soluble mineral consti- 
tuents in the soil is said to prevent tlie maturation of the cane, and it certainly 
has the eifect of introducing into its juice soluble salts which injure the sugar and 
diminish the yield.' From January 1868 to May. the rainfall was in such excess, 
that it doubtless caused a failure in the yield from the reasons given in the above 

note. 

4 



494 SUGAR CULTURE. [Ch. XXIX. 

simple plant belongs to the large natural order of the Graminese 
or grasses. It is the Saccharum oficinarum, also called Arundo 
saccharifera, an endogen, or inwardly developing plant. ^ 

There appear to be three chief stocks from which most of 
the varieties now cultivated in Mam-itius are derived — viz. the 
Creole, originally indigenous to India, the Batavian, and Ota- 
heitan. 

The principal sorts most in favour at the present day are : 
the white and red belloguet, the white diard, white-striped and 
red bamboo, white renang and guinghan. The latter canes, 
being harder, require, of course, stronger machinery to crush 
them, and, coming to maturity all at once, require to be cut 
down with great expedition ; and this, again, exacts a superior 
plant to work it through rapidly. 

The canes attain ordinarily from ten to fourteen feet in height, 
and three to six inches in circumference, according to the kind 
or favourable soil. 

The cane, as in all reeds, has a knotty stalk, and at each knob 
a joint, or leaf. 

The number of joints on the stalk varies from thirty to forty. 
The roots are very slender, seldom more than a foot long, with 
a few fibres at their extremities. 

The cane requires from ten to twenty months after planting to 
arrive at maturity. 

It is cultivated either by planting the top of the cut cane, or 
by allowing the parent stole to put forth new ones, and to form 
new ratoons. 

In both cases the new canes are derived from buds, which are 
situated on the alternate sides of the cane at the joints. The 
buds at the lower and upper extremities of the cane retain the 
power of vegetation the longest, the former being protected by 
the earth, and the latter by the tuft of leaves at the top, from 
drought. Every joint of the cane and stole contains all the 
organs necessary for an entire plant. 

The wood exists in the body of the cane in long tubular cells, 

* I have collected the above information from the best authorities on the sugar- 
cane ; amongst others, I would mention the pamphlets by Messrs. Antelme, Bouton, 
Autard de Bragard, and Dr. F. Guthrie. I am also under obligations to the 
courtesy of many gentlemen owning and belonging to different estates, and other- 
wise connected with the staple product of the Island. 



Ch. XXIX.] SUGAR FIELDS. 495 

which extend from joint to joint. Their form is hexagonal, 
and their function to hold the cane juice. Towards the circum- 
ference, these cells become flatter, and their capacity less. They 
form at last a hard, compact, woody envelope. The quantity 
of wax and silica gives to the rind its peculiar hardness and 
power to repel water. 

Mauritius offers everywhere to the eye spacious cane fields, 
with here and there the long chimneys rising high above the 
surrounding buildings, that generally lie embowered in a grove 
of trees, often the only ones visible for miles. 

The forests, which formerly covered the Island to the water's 
edge, even close to Port Louis, have gradually disappeared, a 
few only remaining in the interior. Strict laws have long been 
in existence for the preservation of the forests, but they do not 
seem to have been enforced much. As wood and charcoal are 
the only things used as fuel, the destruction is still going on. 

Could Labourdonnais see his much-loved isle in the present 
day, he would scarcely recognise any part of it. Where once 
stood the monarchs of the forest are now fields of waving canes, 
or arid plains, every stream long dried up. Through districts 
only intersected then by cattle tracks are now wide roads, and 
over them rush the railway trains bearing their freights of the 
precious substance to be shipped to all parts of the world. All is 
changed, and by the very people he fought so bravely to keep from 
getting a footing in the Isle of France — by them have all his 
hopes and plans been brought to fruition. Unlike many other 
sugar-growing countries, in Mauritius the planter is also the 
manufacturer of sugar, which multiplies tenfold the difficulty 
of the administration of an estate.^ 

The first operations when a field is marked out for cultivation 
are to extirpate all weeds, root up old stocks, and lift away the 
rocks and stones which more or less encumber all ground, and 
place them in even rows. 

Between these at set distances, about eighteen or twenty 
inches apart, holes are dug twelve inches and a half deep, 
eighteen long, and eight wide. 

Grenerally before planting, about ten or twelve pounds of well- 

' For the same man to grow the cane, crush it, boil the juice, and make the. 
sugar, points to a system as relatively imperfect as that when the farmer is also 
the miller and baker. 



496 PLANTING, [Ch. XXIX. 

decomposed stable manure are placed in each hole, and pressed 
down by the feet of the labourer, when it is covered with a light 
layer of earth. 

The cuttings are made from the five or six tender joints or 
knobs nearest the heart of the cane ; two, three, or four of 
which are put into each hole, according to the locality or 
season. 

The best months for planting are December, January, Feb- 
ruary, and March. 

In the quarters most exposed to droughts, after planting, the 
holes are filled up with dried leaves or grass, to protect the young 
shoots from the ardour of the sun. 

The cuttings are placed lengthwise in the holes, taking care 
that the eyes of each are turned in opposite directions, so as not 
to impede each other's growth. 

At the expiration of the time necessary for the shooting of 
the canes, the dead, fermented, and those with sickly buds are 
replaced by fresh ones. 

The cuttings of the virgin or first canes are preferred, as being 
more healthy than those of the second. 

To free the canes, before planting, from the insects that infest 
them, they are plunged from ten to twelve hours in a mixture 
of phoenique or carbolic acid and water — an infallible re- 
medy. 

Sometimes manuring is done after planting, but then the 
litter is placed between the rows of canes, or in a circular trench 
dug round the stocks of the young plants. 

But all this is only a slight portion of the work required in 
sugar culture. 

Then comes the clearing the young canes of the weeds and 
runners which invade them, and pioching up the earth so as to 
render it permeable to air and water. 

The weeds grow with such marvellous rapidity, that the 
planters are obliged to watch the tender canes with the greatest 
care. The number of clearings depends on the soil, climate, 
and nature of the weeds on various estates. The different earths 
are divided into the rocky and free (to use a colonial expression). 
Nearly the whole of the land of Mauritius on the littoral is 
rocky, in fact to such an extent in some parts, that, with the 
stones cleared off them, walls frc m two to four feet high are 



Ch. XXIX.] CULTIVATION, 497 

raised between the rows of canes ; yet they are of the greatest 
fertility, very porous, and easily imbibing water, and yielding 
good crops with proper manurings and rest. 

The free earths are not, as their name would intimate, desti- 
tute of rocks, but are only less encumbered than the rocky. 
These lands lie more in the interior, except in some parts of 
Savane and Grrand Port, where they extend to the sea-shore. 
Loose volcanic, rocky debris and stones are found from the 
coast to the tops of the mountains. 

Constant turning up is required in the free soils, for the in- 
troduction of air, and to decompose the vegetable matter in the 
earth. In some places a plough might be advantageously used 
in planting, but it has not yet been adopted I believe. 

The stables and cattle folds are the two great sources of 
manure for the plantations ; and the heads and leaves of the 
canes employed as food or litter afford them ample materials. 

Except in the more humid localities where wood is plentiful, 
all the sugar houses employ bagasse' and cane leaves as fuel 
Every plantation has then a great quantity of ashes, which whei 
returned to the earth form its most valuable renovator. One o) 
the principal planters wi'ites, ' Long experience has shown that 
the ashes ought to be previously mixed with vegetable matter in 
fermentation ; and when the skimmings of sugar are added, and 
the fibrils of the bagasse, they act promptly and energetically 
on the canes.' 

This appears to me most sensible advice ; but unfortunately 
too many take away everything from the soil, returning little 
to it of the actual ingredients required to give the juice the 
proper quantity of saccharine matter. 

Of late years the most prominent place as a renovator has 
been held by guano. Its stimulating properties increase the 
production twofold for a time, and it has made the fortune of 
many planters. 

In the end it is like killing the goose for her eggs, for it is 
certain loss eventually, when injudiciously used, as too many 
have already found in their failing crops. 

The above-mentioned writer says, and most correctly, ' Inva- 
luable as guano undoubtedly is, its analysis proves it does not 

' Bagasse is the word applied in Mauritius to designate the fibrous and spongj 
parts left from the canes that have passed through the mill. 



498 FERTILISERS. [Ch. XXIX. 

contain all the mineral substances that enter into the compo- 
sition of the cane ; therefore, it is certain that those planters 
who do not restore to the soil the ashes and other debris of the 
cane, will find the fertility of their lands gradually diminish.' 
This is so true that already in many localities exliaustion has 
set in. . 

Nearly 1 30,000Z. annually are spent in guano, and, according 
to one autliority, two-thirds of that quantity are wasted, from 
the guano possessing an amount of extraneous matter, such as 
nitrogen, &c., which is not required at all, and is therefore 
so much waste. So many cheaper manures may be had, posses- 
sing all the ingredients required by the cane. 

When there is such a waste daily going on in the city of Port 
Louis, of matter enough to enrich every plantation in the 
Island, it is a pity some intelligent practical man does not set 
about what would be the greatest benefaction to the colony as 
well as boundless profit to himself. 

Never was any place in such a deplorable state as to its sewage. 
Though efforts have been lately made to put things on a more 
decent footing than formerly, yet all in connection with this 
question is wofully behind the age. 

I believe that a proper system of sewage would not only soon 
defray all expenses of the present plan of draining the city, but 
it would soon save the 130,000^., now paid for guano, to the 
c jlony. 

I see by a late paper that the Metropolitan and Essex Eeclama- 
tion Company are showing on a large scale the value of sewage 
as a fertilising agent in England ; and one especial passage I 
notice, ' The sewage when used is colourless, and free from taint 
and odour.' 

To use the sewage of Mauritius thus would, I feel sure, restore 
it to its once healthy condition, for it would do away with the 
greatest source of disease in the Island. But the system must 
be carried on over every estate to be really beneficial, and the 
planter would soon reap his profit in the increase of health and 
strength in his camp. 

In some parts of the Island the rainfall is sufficient for the 
canes, but in those utterly denuded of forests they suffer fre- 
quently from drought. Irrigation is resorted to, but in many 
places it is an expensive and tedious process ; and tlie faihue oi 



Ch. XXIX.] CROPS, 499 

the streams in very dry weather renders it often totally im- 
practicable. The leaves grow yellow and withered, and unless 
the canes get rain before they are dried to a certain point a 
failure of the juice is certain. 

Some of the planters have well studied the advantages of a 
change of crops. After the canes have yielded for two seasons, 
the ground is either allowed to lie fallow or is planted with 
manioc, which serves as food for the cattle ; several kinds of 
peas, called ambrevades — the black pea being eaten greedily by 
oxen, sheep, goats and pigs, and the yellow flowered one being 
used both by men and animals ; arrowroot, which the Island 
produces in abundance, the whitest and best in the world, and 
maize. 

Three years is the time usually given to the land between the 
cane crops. 

Every one wlio has thus carried out the system of a rotation 
of crops has reaped the benefit of it. 

It is a fact known by every farmer all the world over, and yet 
how many planters go on, year by year, planting the same 
fields, and over-manuring ; and the result is much of the misery 
of the present day. 

I do not doubt that the diseases in the cane have been 
brought about in a great measure by the above practices. 

There are two enemies the planter has had to fight against, 
most deadly ones — the pou blanc as it is called here, and the 
borer. 

The latter, or Proceras sacchariphagus, made its appearance 
in 1850. Some canes were imported from Ceylon in 1848 
that were pronounced to be all attacked by a boring caterpillar, 
a plague well known to exist in some parts of that island. It 
was thought so dangerous to plant them that they were all 
condemned. They lay however for some days under the shed 
near the port office, whence it is supposed some of the cuttings 
were clandestinely removed and planted at Flacq. 

The man who committed such an insane act had better have 
applied a torch to his plantation. 

Two years after, the canes at Grrand Bale were attacked by 
an insect recognised as the same as those on the Ceylon canes. 

It also appeared at Labourdonnais the same year, though 
then imagined to have been brought in some canes imported 



500 SUGAR-CANE INSECTS, [Ch. XXIX. 

from Java ; but it has since been stated that the borer is un- 
known there. 

The depredations of this insect were frightful, as it soon 
ravaged whole plantations in every part of the Island. 

When the eggs of the borer are hatched, the caterpillar 
remains on the leaves until it is strong enough to attack the 
cane. 

It possesses two powerful mandibles, and its mouth is armed 
with a lance-like instrument, which serves it to pierce the flinty 
cuticle of the cane. When it has once made good its entry it 
mines it with frightful rapidity, and as soon as it attacks the 
heart the plant withers and dies. It is one of the most voracious 
of insects. 

When hatched it is only 1^ line large, but at the end of 
thirty-one or thirty-two days it is of the thickness of a quill. It 
then begins to spin its envelope, which it lines with debris of the 
cane and leaves. The chrysalis state lasts about fifteen days, 
and it then emerges a fly of a reddish colour on a silver grey 
ground, covered with powdery scales that fly off with every 
movement of the insect. 

During the next five days it lays its eggs, to the niunber of 
1 30, and then dies. 

This destructive insect has an inveterate enemy in the ant 
tribe that wages continual war on it, and they, being so small, are 
able to pursue wherever the borer hides. Many birds also devour 
it greedily ; but, in spite of all its enemies, it has continued its 
ravages even to the present day. It has partially disappeared 
in some districts, but will I fear never be eradicated. 

The pou blanc is of the genus Coccus, and a most destructive 
insect. It will stand the highest and lowest temperatures, and 
I have seen it in the three parts of the world I have visited. 
There are many species of it, and all of them generally attack 
sickly plants and trees. It is possible that the diseased state of the 
canes in 1848, a short time previously to the appearance of this 
insect, induced its ravages ; for wherever an unhealthy plant is, 
there is sure to be some parasite, often one quite unknown in 
the vicinity previously. The coccus on the Mauritian canes 
deposits about 150 eggs under its carapace or shell. This 
takes place after the female has done feeding for the season. 

Some days are occupied in depositing these eggs, which are 



Ch. XXIX.] 



CANE-INSECTS. 



501 



enveloped in a web that she spins round them, raising tlie 
carapace, and exhibiting a white cottony substance beneath. 





LARVA AND PUPA. 



DISEASED SUGAR-CANE. 



If the weather is favourable, in a few days the young appear, 
and are very active, running about on the green shoots and 

M M 



502 THE COCCUS. [Ch. XXIX. 

leaves, until they find a spot that suits them to fix themselves 
for life. 

They are armed with a sharp probe as long as the body, 
which they insert in the young sap-wood, and suck away the 
life-juices of the plant, sometimes quite destroying it. 

On cutting branches that have become fibrous where these 
insects have been at work, the whole medullary system seems so 
deranged that circulation appears almost impossible. 

This insect spreads and multiplies rapidly. It has one in- 
veterate enemy, the ant, which annoys it by tickling it with its 
forefeet while eating, and causing it to disgorge the juices it 
has fed on, which it devours greedily, till the pou shrinks up 
and dies, starved out. I gave a full description of this insect, 
in a treatise I published on the vine disease in 1853. 

This coccus has been very destructive in different cities of 
America. 

Newhaven in the United States is known as the ' City of 
Elms,' from its streets and squares being planted with these 
magnificent trees. They were all attacked a few years ago by 
the coccus, or cotton louse as it is called there, and numbers of 
them were destroyed. A reward was offered for the prevention 
of this pest. 

Amongst other propositions was one to scrape the trees, and 
shower them with a solution of blubber oil and water, which 
proved effectual in eradicating the insect from the city. 

No sooner, however, had they got rid of one plague, than 
another appeared. On examination, it was found that the trees 
were diseased at their roots, owing partially to the gas pipes 
passing close to them ; also from their inhaling the impure air 
from the gases emanating from the general use of hard coal in 
the city. In most of the towns of the United States the trees 
sicken from the same causes. 

The coccus will not attack plants and trees that are not pre- 
viously in a diseased or sickly state. I will mention an instance 
of this. 

In front of my own residence in New York I had planted, at 
great expense, many fine trees on the lawn. Among them were 
some magnolias, one of which was injured in transplanting. 
This tree put forth its leaves in the spring, but looked so sickly 
that I conchided it would die in the fall. By midsummer, the tree 



Ch. XXIX.] SUGAR HOUSES. 503 

was covered with the cotton louse, which killed it, but none 
were found on the healthy plants. 

It is my conviction that the canes had been so over-stimulated 
by guano, that they were in a fit state for the attacks of the 
pou blanc. Wherever this exists, if the plant is examined, the 
roots will be found diseased, and the medullary system filled 
with a gummy substance, which prevents the circulation. 

During the entrecoupe, the sugar houses are thoroughly 
cleaned and painted, the machinery repaired, and everything put 
in order ; a notable instance of which may be seen on the Labour- 




CANE PLANT. 



donnais estate, which I can best describe by saying that it is a 
model of cleanliness and order within and without, and does 
infinite credit to the manager and his staff of superintendents 
and workmen. 

As soon as the coupe begins, all is activity ; no time for idlers 
then, and the anxiety of the proprietor is ceaseless till he sees 
the returns his canes are likely to yield. 

In September the canes generally arrive at maturity, but ac- 
cording to locality, time of planting &c. : they are often not ripe 
for cutting till October or November. 



504 STATISTICS, [Ch. XXIX. 

When a field is pronounced fit to cut, a third of the labourers 
with a small hatchet chop off the canes close to the earth, another 
third clear them from the leaves, and the rest pack them 
upright in carts, and take them to the mill. 

After many tons of canes have been cut and carted to the 
sugar house, steam is put on the engine ; and if the mill is 
powerful, say of 35-horse power, and rollers fifty by thirty, it 
will require about twenty coolies to supply it with canes. In 
the process of feeding the mill the coolies proceed in rotation 
on each side of the feed-plate, fetching up a dozen or two canes 
on their shoulders, pitching them in without much regard to 
order, and, with one turn of the huge roller the greater part 
come out on the other side crushed to dry chips, which are 
carted away, and spread out in the sun to dry. 

This refuse is the bagasse, and when thoroughly dried is 
stacked in ricks or covered sheds for future use as fuel for the 
engine. 

In this first process lies one great cause of loss to the planters. 
Some attribute it to the use of plated rollers ; however that may 
be, it is certain from some cause, in the crushing of the 
canes the planter's loss is serious, said to be equal from three 
to eight lbs. in the 100 lbs. of sugar. To give an instance ; 
a rich proprietor has obtained by a powerful mill 4,550 lbs. of 
juice from 7,500 lbs. of canes, the mean rendering being 60 to 
68 per cent. 

This loss is equivalent to 2,860 lbs. of sugar to an arpent.^ 

This planter cultivates from 700 to 800 arpents, so that he 
loses the frightful quantity of from 2,002,000 lbs. to 2,288,000 
lbs. yearly. 

The liquor, now called Vesou, that flows from the mill (look- 
ing like water disgustingly muddy) is at once conducted by 
wooden or cast-iron gutters to the steam defecators of 300 
gallons each, where it is heated to boiling point. 

The vesou flowing thence into the first pans of the battery, 
ebullition commences in those next the furnace ; as it boils up at 
a temperature not exceeding 140°, it is constantly skimmed 
and ladled from pan to pan, until relieved of its impurities. 

The vesou is then run into clarifiers of the same size, where 
lime is added, about 3 lbs to each 300 gallons. 

' An arpent is 100 square porches, and a perch is 20 feet French. 



Ch. XXIX.] SUGAR MAKING. 505 

It is stirred up and then allowed to rest for fifteen or twenty 
minutes, when it is drawn off and evaporated to 25° Keaumur 
in cast-iron pans. 

The liquor, now designated Clairee, is sent into large cisterns, 
where it remains for twenty-fom' horns. And thus it goes on : 
as long as the mill is working the battery works too, defecating 
and concentrating. The vacuum pan now comes into operation. 
Steam is put on the pan, an engine with pumps for exhaustion 
is set going, and, when a vacuum of 25° is attained, about 
500 gallons of Clairee are admitted into the pan ; and when 
once grains are formed in that quantity, more and more is 
allowed to flow in as granulation takes place. 

The temperature of the pan is always kept at 170°, and in 
about four hours, or less with a good pan, nearly four tons of 
sugar will be taken out. The sugar runs from the pan along 
wooden troughs into large shallow wooden cisterns, where it 
remains from six to ten hours for cooling, till it is ready for 
the centrifugal machines called turbines, which purge and 
drain the sugar. 

These machines revolve at the rapid rate of about 1,200 rota- 
tions per minute, and separate the syrup from the sugar, which 
flows through a pipe in the side of the turbine into large vats 
under the sugar house. It is then called molasses, and is sold 
to the distillers for the manufacture of rum. 

When the turbine is in motion a small quantity of water is 
thrown in, and the sugar can be made extremely white. On 
some of the estates it is made into large crystals. On leaving 
the turbines the sugar is packed into gunny and Vacoa bags, 
and is then ready for the market. 

■ Many of the planters still use the wetzells, a machine far 
inferior to the vacuum pan, but on all the large estates the 
latter is used. 

During the whole of the coupe, the air on the plantations is 
filled with the powerful odour of the boiling sugar. Everywhere 
you hear but the one topic, sugar, sugar, and still sugar, or 
crops. 

On the arrival of the monthly mail, all are eager for the 
latest sugar quotations, and the first question is always, Are 
sugars up or down ? 

I fear Mauritius has produced more than she ever will again, 



5o6 



EXPORTATION OF SUGAR. 



[Ch. XXIX. 



and . that real capital will have to be introduced in order to 
carry on the plantations profitably. Most of the planters are 
bankrupt, and even the few who still keep their heads above 
water do so by paying enormous percentage for capital. 

Annexed to this is a table of the exportation of sugar from 
1812 to 1870, together with its value in pounds sterling, &c. 



Exportation of Sugar from 1812 to 1869. 







Sugar English Weight 




Years 


Sugar lbs. French 




\ 




Tons 


cwts. 


qrs. 


lbs. j 

1 


1812 . 


969,264 


467 


6 


1 


1 
25 


1813 . 




549,465 


264 


18 


1 


18 


1814 . 




1,034,294 


498 


13 


2 


5 


1815 . 






2.504,957 


1,207 


14 


3 


21 


1816 . 






8,296,352 


4,000 





•) 


4 


1817 






6,683,457 


3,174 


3 


1 


9 


1818 






7,908,380 


3,812 


19 


1 


14 


1819 






5,678,888 


2,738 





2 


23 


1820 






15,524,755 


7,485 


2 j 3 


27 


1821 






20,410,053 


9,840 


11 





25 


1822 






23,403,644 


11,283 


17 


3 


27 


1823 






27,400,887 


13,211 


2 


3 


9 


1824 






24,334,553 


11,732 


14 


2 


13 


1825 






21,739,766 


10,481 


13 


1 


23 


1826 






42,489,416 


20,485 


19 


1 


13 


1827 






40,619,254 


19,584 


5 


2 


18 


1828 






48,350,101 


23,311 


13 





13 


1829 






58,431,538 


28,172 


6 


3 


25 


1830 






67,926,602 


32,750 


7 


1 


15 


1831 






70.203,676 


33,848 


4 





2 


1832 






73,594,778 


35,483 


3 


3 


20 


1833 






67,482,800 


32,536 


7 


— 


— 


1834 






71,143,851 


34,301 


9 


3 


27 


1835 






64,876,825 ' 


31,279 


17 


3 


23 


1836 






63,333,513 


30,535 


16 





2 


1837 






68,275,065 


32,918 


6 


2 


22 


1838 






72,002,226 


34,715 


7 





20' 


1839 






K8,572,979 


33,061 


19 


1 


21 


1840 






82,048,509 


39,559 


2 





5 


1841 






78,969,678 


38,074 


13 


1 


8 


1842 






71,225,151 


34,340 


13 


3 


23 


1843 






55,026,564 


26,530 


13 


1 


5 


1844 






72,656,720 


35,030 


18 


1 


13 


i 1845 






87,561,994 


42,217 


7 


3 


5 


1846 






127,531,510 


61,488 


8 





14 


1847 






118,291,246 


57,033 


5 


2 


9 


1 1848 






114,653,469 


55,279 


7 





2 


; 1849 






133,418,250 


64,326 


13 





14 


! 1850 






114,393,223 


55,153 


17 


2 





i 1851 






138,123,365 


66,595 


3 


3 


14 


1852 






148,550,169 


71,622 


8 1 


6 


■■ 1853 






190,342,546 

1 


91,772 


3 


25 



Ch. XXIX.] 



A NEW PROCESS, 



SO? 



Exportation of Sugar — continued. 



\ 


Sugar English Weight 




YEARS Sugar lbs. French 

1 ' 






Tons 


cwts. 


qrs. 


lbs. 


1854 . . . 176,116,461 


84,913 


5 


3 


13 


1855 . 






264,081,115 


127,324 


16 


1 


24 


1856 . 






244,667,523 


117,964 


13 


3 


24 


1857 






240,910,000 


116,153 





2 


24 


1858 






246,229,138 


118,717 


12 


1 


17 


1859 






256.981,607 


123,901 


16 


3 


19 


I860 






271,807,107 


131,049 


17 





11 


1861 






^ 220,631,916 


106,376 


2 





5 


1862 






1 268,162,551 


129,292 


13 





19 


1863 






274,548,961 


132,371 


16 


1 


17 


1864 






i 233,440,106 


112,551 


9 


2 


10 


1865 


• 




. i 270,026,937 


130,191 


11 





19 


1866 






247,383.011 


119,273 


19 





3 


1867 






1 200,895,816 


96,860 


9 


2 


17 


1868 






. j 198,601,676 


95,754 


7 


2 


10 


1869 






. 1 213,766,517 


103,065 


19 


3 


26 



This return represents the annual exportation of sugar from January 1 to 
December 31 of each vear. 



Dr. leery has invented what he calls the mono-sulphite of 
lime for purifying sugar. He gives practical instructions 
for its manufacture and use. He gives a diagram of machinery 
that can be easily added to the sugar-house, and the article 
can be made at an extremely low price. To use Dr. Icery's 
own words, ' This process consists of an altogether special 
method of preparing sulphite of lime, and of applying ' it in 
the decoloration and purification of cane juice and syrups. 
The apparatus, by its solidity, its particular arrangement, 
and the perfect regularity of its action, satisfies as nearly as 
is possible the exigencies and usages of colonial manufacture. 
The syrups remaining from the turbinage of sugars, when 
treated with mono-sulphite of lime, give most advantageous 
results. Under the influence of that agent syrups become puri- 
fied, decolorised, and crystallised with remarkable facility. 

' Manufactured by this process, syrup sugars have a perfect 
grain and fine colour ; not entirely due to the direct influence of 
the substance employed, but from the purification to which the 
vesou has already been submitted, and the absence in the syrup 



5o8 



EXPORTATION OF SUGAR. 



[Ch. XXIX. 















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Ch. XXIX.] 



A NEW PROCESS. 



509 



of those foreign soluble matters which are the principal ob- 
stacles to the crystallisation of sugars of the second boiling.' 

Dr. Icery's process seems to be gaining ground, and is already 
employed on many estates, as it has been proved that a larger 
quantity and better quality of sugar is obtained from the syrup, 
in addition to which the process is more economical. 




THE AUTHOH'S dog 'QUILP.' 



^' to 



APPENDIX. 



The following letter was sent to me by an Indian Creole, and is 
about the best begging letter I ever received. It speaks for itself 
without any comment of mine, so I give it verbatim, also preserving 
the punctuation. 

TO THE HONORABLE PRESENCE OF MISTER THE 
COUNCEL OF THE AMERICAN COUNTRY. 

The Humhle Petition of Surwurrah. 

Assured of your Benevolences and Sympathy, your needy ; most 
respectfully, as well as humbly, begs to offer this small acknowledge- 
m.ent of your great favour, and kindness in aiding him with several 
good things, while he was sick on his bed with the fever. 

Your Humble Petitioner is in a miserable condition at present ; 
having no families or kindreds, in this Colony of Mauritius his 
Father and Mother being died of the Fever, so ; as to care for him, 
and keep up his things, without wasting in vain, the Benefits of his 
travailes ; he thinks it necessary to marry a wife, and he has found 
a good match for him, with whom he has engaged to be married on 
the 25th Instant. 

The, Baptised name of your Poor Petitioner is Christian, having, 
no means, or influence to perform his marriage he humbly as well 
as, very Confidently solicit your Honor, of your Clemency have an 
eye of Sympathy, and lend him some money, which will be con- 
sidered a great help to finish his marriage. He pays your Honor 
now some monies of a former account, and for the money you will 
lend hereafter, he can pay in 5 months. The God almighty will 
reward you and, incress your Stores. 

Surwurrah. 



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DOOLITTLE'S CHINA. Social Life of the Chinese : with some Account of their 
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4 Valuable and Literesting Works of Travel. 

REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES. A Journal of Siberian Travel and Ex- 
plorations made in the Years 18C5-'67. By Richaed J. Bush, late of the Russo- 
American Telegraph Expedition. Illustrated. Crown Svo, Cloth, $3 00. 

PRIME'S (W. C.) BOAT-LIFE IN EGYPT. Boat-Life in Egypt and Nubia. By 
William C. Pkime. Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $2 00. 

PRIME'S (W. C.) TENT-LIFE IN THE HOLY LAND. By William C. Prime. Il- 
lustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $2 00. 

SQUIER'S CENTRAL AMERICA. The States of Central America: their Geography, 
Topography, Climate, Population, Resources, Productions, Commerce, Political 
Organization, Aborigines, &c., &c. Comprising Chapters on Honduras, Sau Sal- 
vador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Guatemala, Belize, the Bay Islands, the Mosquito 
Shore, and the Honduras Inter-Oceanic Railway. By E. G. Squier, formerly 
Charge d' Affairs of the United States to the Republics of Central America. With 
numerous Original Maps and Illustrations. Svo, Cloth, $4 00. 

SQUIER'S NICARAGUA. Nicaragua : its People, Scenery, Monuments, Resources, 
Condition, and Proposed Canal. With One Hundred Maps and Illustrations. By 
E. G. Squier. Svo, Cloth, $4 00. 

SQUIER'S WAIKNA. Waikna; or, Adventures on the Mosquito Shore. By E. G. 
Squikb. W^ith a Map and upward of Sixty Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50. 

SPEKE'S AFRICA. Journal of the Discovery of the Source of the Nile. By Captain 
John Hanning Speke, Captain H. M.'s Indian Army, Fellow and Gold Medalist 
of the Royal Geographical Society, Hon. Corresponding Member and Gold Med- 
alist of the French Geographical Society, «&c. With Maps and Portraits and nu- 
merous Illustrations, chiefly from Drawings by Captain Grant. Svo, Cloth, $4 00. 

STEPHENS'S TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. Travels in Central America, 
Chiapas, and Yucatan. By J. L. Stephens. With a Map and 88 Engravings. 2 
vols., Svo, Cloth, $6 00. 

STEPHENS'S TRAVELS IN YUCATAN. Incidents of Travel in Yucatan. By J. 
L. Stephens. 120 Engravings, from Drawings by F. Catherwood. 2 vols., Svo, 
Cloth, $G 00. 

STEPHENS'S TRAVELS IN EGYPT. Travels in Egypt, Arabia Petraea, and the 
Holy Land. By J. L. Stephens. Engravings. 2 vols., 12mo, Cloth, $3 00. 

STEPHENS'S TRAVELS IN GREECE. Travels in Greece. Turkey, Russia, and 
Poland. By J. L. Stephens. Engravings. 2 vols., 12mo, Cloth, $3 00. 

THOMSON'S LAND AND BOOK. The Land and the Book ; or, Biblical Illustra- 
tions drawn from the Manners and Customs, the Scenes and the Scenery of the 
Holy Land. By W. M. Thomson, D.D., Twenty-five Years a Missionary of the 
A.B.C.F.M. in Syria and Palestine. With Two elaborate Maps of Palestine, an 
accurate Plan of Jerusalem, and Several Hundred Engravings, representing the 
Scenery, Topography, and Productions of the Holy Land, and the Costumes, Man- 
ners, and Habits of the People. Two large 12mo Volumes, Cloth, $5 00. 

VAMBERY'S CENTRAL ASIA. Travels in Central Asia: being the Account of a 
Journey from Teheran across the Turkoman Desert, on the Eastern Shore of the 
Caspian, to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand, performed in the Year 1863. By 
AuMiNius Vamuekv, Member of the Hungarian Academy of Pesth, by whom he 
was sent on this Scientitic Mission. With Map and Woodcuts. Svo, Cloth, $4 50. 

VIRGINIA ILLUSTRATED : containing a Visit to the Virginian Canaan, and the 
Adventures of Porte' Crayon and his Cousins. Illustrated from Drawings by 
Porte Crayon. Svo, Cloth, $3 50. 

WALLACE'S MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. The Malay Archipelago: the Land of the 
Orang-Utan and the Bird of Paradise. A Narrative of Travel, lS54r-'6-2. With 
Studies of Man and Nature. By Alfred Russel Wallace. With Maps and nu- 
merous Illustrations. Crown Svo, Cloth, $2 50. 

WELLS'S EXPLORATIONS IN HONDURAS. Explorations and Adventures in 
Honduras; comprising Sketches of Travel in the Gold Regions of Olancho, and 
a Review of the History and General Resources of Central America. By William 
V. Wells. With Original Maps and numerous Illustrations. Svo, Cloth, $3 50. 

WHYMPER'S ALASKA. Travel and Adventure in the Territory of Alaska, formerly 
Russian America— now ceded to the United States— and in various other Parts 
of the North Pacific. By Frederick Whymper. With Map and Illustrations. 
Crown Svo, Cloth, $2 50. 

WILKINSON'S ANCIENT EGYPTIANS, A Popular Account of the Ancient 
Egyptians. Revised and abridged from his larger Work. By Sir J. Gardner 
Wilkinson, D.C.L.,F.R.S., &c. Illustrated with 500 Woodcuts. 2 vols., 12mo, 
Cloth, $3 50. 



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